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Some background
Originally I wanted to know if the alternator on my T100 was working. The engine was in bits so I mounted the stator and rotor onto my bench grinder. This ran at about 3000 RPM but my grinder struggled to maintain speed when the stator was connected to a load. I later bought a more powerful three-phase motor and inverter and built a small test rig (on the right.) This rig can drive an alternator from 0 to 4000 RPM under load. The top limit is arbitrary as I dont know the maximum speed of the motor! To make measurements I used a digital multimeter (DM) and a Picoscope (software oscilloscope.) Lucas specifies a 1 Ohm load resistor to test their alternators and initially I made my own from resistance wire. There is a fair amount of heat to dissipate by the load (at least 120W) and after burning my hand a couple of times I fitted a cooler running 200W device below left. I also added a selection of resistors to simulate ignition and lighting loads.
Although I started out to test my own alternator, over time this has changed and I have taken the opportunity to test any alternator I can get my hands on. I have logged the test results at the end of this document.
Confusingly the early single-phase stators also had three wires. This was because they were initially used on 6 volt electrical systems which had no voltage regulation (no zener). To increase alternator output whenever lights were used, extra stator coils (the third wire) were brought into use. These stators can also be used on 12v systems by connecting the green/yellow and green/black wires together to make a two wire single-phase stator. Some even earlier stator types had 5 wires but these were used on AC only bikes. Lucas stators have an ID number and date of manufacture stamped on them. To find your numbers you may have to remove your stator. Aftermarket stators tend to have only a name at best.
The rotor keyway is only required for timing purpose, it is not required to drive the rotor. I never use a key on my rig and only ever just nip up the rotor nut, it never moves. You must use a key if you run a battery-less ignition system (including with a capacitor) or if you use the marks on the rotor for ignition timing. There may be rub marks on your rotor but these are not necessarily a bad thing. However there must be a gap between the rotor and stator, check yours with a feeler gauge. The gap size is not critical but make sure you can get a feeler all the way around. If the rub marks have any depth or formed grooves, check the nearest main bearing for wear.
Magnetism
There is a lot of forum talk about how much magnetism a rotor loses over time and what impact this might have on alternator output. I have a collection of old rotors and some are good, some are bad. Shown below two of my old Lucas rotors are very close to a new Wassell on output (C & E), two are close and rotor B wants chucking in the bin. Meter Reading Scope reading Power 1 No load 1 No Output % Ohm Ohm load AC AC Peak Peak Compared to Volts Volts Volts Volts Wassell 12.2 22.1 23.2 58.2 70 10.4 18.8 20.1 51.2 51 14.3 25.3 27.2 63.7 96 14.6 25.9 27.2 63.7 100 14.2 24.8 26.7 61.4 95 12.9 23.2 24.1 60.4 78
ID A B C D E F
Year 11 68
44 78 5 69
I used a two wire stator 47205A with 1 Ohm load at 3000 RPM in this test.
Rotor Offset
A rider said his rotor has a 0.25 (6.35mm) offset from his stator and wondered what effect it would have on output. I did a quick check using a standard Lucas rotor with single-phase 47205a stator running at 3000rpm without and with a load. Voltage No load 33.4 35.5 Voltage 1 Ohm 10.2 10.7 Watts 104.0 114.5 That offset caused a 9% drop in output so worth getting it right. It would be interesting to know if the offset is standard or has been caused by a mismatch of parts ie wrong size spacer or stator
If your resistances are OK but your voltage is much lower than mine then you have weak magnets in your rotor.
This is important as it gives an indication of whether at maximum load your battery will be charged. Now a charged 12v battery measures 12.6V across its terminals, so to charge it we need more than 12.6 volts. Looking at the image above you can see the peak voltage is just over 10 volts which isnt enough. Peak no load volts - as can be seen bellow you have plenty of voltage to charge your battery.
ID
Wires
Laminations
47197A
67
18
Lead Brown Brown Red Black-white Green-yellow Green-yellow White-green Green-yellow Green-yellow White-green Green-yellow Green-yellow Green-yellow White-green Green-yellow Green-yellow White-green Green-yellow Green-yellow White-green Brown Brown Brown Brown
47252
85
19
C D E
3 1 3
89 64 88
3 2 3
21 16 20
colours brown-blue red brown-blue black Yellow Green-black White-green Green-black Green-black White-green Green-black Green-pink Green-black White-green Green-black Green-black White-green Green-black Green-black White-green Green-black Clear Red Purple Mauve
Watts 27 45 9 34
RPM
3000
34 36 149 53
472442
83
20
53 59 36 18 1 1 1
47252A
79
20
1 Unknown
17
3000
10
ID I
Wires 5
Laminations 18
Lead Red Brown Brown Black-white White-green Light green Light green Dark green Green Green White Orange Purple
colours Brown-blue Black-white Black-yellow Black-yellow Green-yellow Mid green Dark green Mid green White Purple Purple Yellow Purple
47205A
69
18
Watts 42 6 35 8 42 90 117
Unknown
19
Not tested Stator did not fit my rig 71 1 29 92 41 3000 8.4 0.3 5.4 9.6 6.4 27.8 1.9 26.0 23.0 25.8 14.0 1.0 9.0 17.6 11.16 75.1 12.3 67.1 66.2 79.7 Windings In-phase 104.7 101.0 4.6 Windings In-phase Broken leads
Unknown
23
Unknown
32 Orange White-green White-green Green-black White-green Red Red Green Yellow Green-black Green-yellow Green-yellow Green-black+ green-yellow Green Yellow Yellow 149 31 88
3000
47209A
26
3000 129
11.4
38.8
17.9
101.6
472308
73
11
ID Q
Wires 3
Laminations 20
20
Watts 62
RPM 3000
87
3000
9.32
31.8
15.13
46.2
12