Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
BERLIN
August - September 2010
Berlin Music
Week
Bands in a hangar
Long Night of
the Museums
Late night exhibitions
N°46 - €1.75
berlin.inyourpocket.com
CONTENTS 3
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Contents
www.plazahotel.de Berlin’s districts 5
Getting streetwise
www.restaurant-knese.de Arrival & Transport 6
Get your bearings on S, U and ICE
www.parken-am-kudamm.de Culture & Events 7
http://blog.plazahotel.de Roll up for theatre, show and cinema
Where to stay 15
From park bench to Park Grand
What to see 48
Palaces, squares and museums
Potsdam 59
River Tours 60
Family Fun 61
www.HotelAstoria.de Shopping 62
www.HotelAstoria.de Buy buy buy
HTTPBLOGASTORIADE Maps & Index
Street register 68
Hotel Astoria Berlin Centre map 69-71
Fasanenstraße 2 · D-10623
Hotel Astoria Berlin Berlin Transport map 72-73
Index 74
Tel. ++49(30) 3 12 40 67 · Fax ++49(30)
Fasanenstraße 2 · D-10623 3 12 50 27
Berlin AM
There’s much to love about Berlin, and the new Berlin Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
Music Week which is held this September is sure to Greeting city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still Prenzlauer Berg (PB)
win some hearts, transforming you readers into true left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old
Sin ce th e fall o f th e often find everything they need. Public transportation is working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
Berlin fans. The week-long event encompasses a B e r l i n Wa l l a ro u n d 2 0
trade fair and many parties, the best of which are the far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
y e a r s a go, B e r l i n h a s as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights: soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and along
Berlin Festival inside the disused Tempelhof airport, experienced breakneck Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg. Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.). Prenzlauer
and the wonderful Club Night. See p.13 for more change: its infrastructure Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design museum and a
details. If you’re more into classical music, the start was modernized from the 19th-century brewery complex that is now the Kulturbrauerei
of the 2010/2011 season should have you excited, ground up, while entire city Mitte (MI) culture centre. A good time to visit is Saturday when the eco-
districts were either created Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or Sunday when everyone
as there are many good orchestras visiting town for from scratch or thoroughly
the Musikfest Berlin; see the events calendar on p.9 of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the sits outside being cool and eating breakfast all day.
remodeled. Moreover, Berlin boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
for names and dates. has become a capital not once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
Even those not interested in concerts will find only in the political sense, to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State Further afield
plenty of distraction in Berlin as summer switches but culturally and intellectually as well. As a result, it is Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the German Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
to autumn. The Long Night of the Museums gives now considered one of the most exciting and diverse History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum Island, Berliner scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin,
cities in all of Europe. Dom, and the abandoned East German Parliament building and Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and
you an opportunity to see dozens of museums
putting on special shows and tours late at night, make for more talk, less walk tours. The architecturally tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
Berlin finds its positive image reflected in its tourist humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel, whose layout Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
and there are some excellent exhibitions to visit. industry statistics: more and more people are visiting looks as if 17th-century planners got interrupted during a forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
In September as the tourist high season fades and our city to see its countless attractions for themselves. game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these streets that the casually Zehlendorf (ZD).
temperatures sink, Berlin’s sights become more These include, for example, the ubiquitous traces chic saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café, pointing
pleasant to visit, a good reason to check out that of a turbulent and emotional history and the city’s out directions to tourists seeking out the latest hotspots or
one museum you’ve always wanted to see. compelling museums, which invite you to browse the traces of the Jewish community that lived here from the late Europe In Your Pocket
world’s cultures. The contemporary art scene, too, has 17th-century until the mass deportations of the Nazi era.
Whatever you do to celebrate summer, let us know long since found a home in Berlin, proof of which can
about any tips of comments you may have at be seen in the city’s hundreds of galleries, many stellar
berlin@inyourpocket.com. collections – often exhibited in innovative settings – Charlottenburg (CB)
and, most recently, the new temporary art gallery in the If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets,
heart of the city. crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then
Cover story Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin.
Great art can of course also be experienced in Berlin’s Much of what was here was bombed in the war and built
Berlin’s city-centre Fernsehturm opera houses and its many renowned theaters. Its anew in the 1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where
TV Tower is reflected off a modern wide range of orchestras – including the Berliner Kufürstendamm, Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and
building on Alexanderplatz. This Philharmoniker, the Staatskapelle, the Deutsches Tauentzienstr. come together. Follow what becomes an
square was the centre of East Symphonie Orchester, the Rundfunksinfonie Orchester, increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm)
Berlin in the communist era, and and countless others – is unmatched in its quality and and the setting becomes more genteel where you can’t see the
many buildings around it reflect diversity. And let’s not forget Berlin’s exciting club scene buildings for the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi
the need to tell the world of the and the many different restaurants, pubs, and bars is Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.
system’s success. The western that make the city the place to be for anyone looking for
part of the square, near the cosmopolitan flair and the latest trends.
Rotes Rathaus town hall, was In this spirit, I would like to wish you an eventful stay Tiergarten (TG)
the location of Berlin’s Old Town, in Germany’s capital city – Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare
a small part of which was rebuilt welcome to Berlin! park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in
in the 1980s. the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a
dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing
though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to
Editorial Copyright notice the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it
Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket are the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.
Editorial Contributors GmbH 2010. All rights reserved. No part
Wendy Wrangham, Christina Knight, of this publication may be reproduced
In Your Pocket GmbH
Jenny Pons, Michael Nevermann, in any form, except brief extracts for Kreuzberg (KB)
Philippe Krueger, Alex Zuckrow the purpose of review, without written
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground.
Axel-Springer-Str. 39 Research Monika Kierewicz permission from the publisher and Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides
10969 Berlin copyright owner. The brand name In Your anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It around, we have recently gone Dutch with a move into
Tel: (+49)(0)30 27 90 79 81 Photos Ansgar Meemken (AM), Pocket is used under license from UAB
Fax: (+49)(0)30 24 04 73 50 In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off the Netherlands. The first issue of ’s-Hertogenbosch
Jeroen van Marle (JvM)
germany@inyourpocket.com Maps Kartographie Eichner, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it In Your Pocket is now out, providing visitors to the city
www.inyourpocket.com kaeichner@online.de, www.ellomap.de was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987 also known as Den Bosch with all the usual essential
Editor’s note social and economic frustration exploded into violence and
ISSN 1611-9037 Cover: © dreamstime.com information an In Your Pocket guide provides. We also
The editorial content of In Your Pocket vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations
© In Your Pocket GmbH, a company guides is independent from paid-for have a pilot issue of Vienna In Your Pocket out on
of UAB In Your Pocket Sales & Circulation of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
advertising. Sponsored listings are night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May 1st the streets of the Austrian capital: you can download
Vokieciu 10-15 General Manager Stephan Krämer clearly marked as such. We welcome all a free PDF copy of both of these new guides at our
Vilnius, Lithuania Production Manager Philippe Krueger is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes of
readers‘ comments and suggestions. website, inyourpocket.com. To keep up with all In
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76 Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt We have made every effort to ensure
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Circulation: 20,000 copies bimonthly responsibility for changes and errors. major museums, the House at Checkpoint Charlie and the us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
Jewish Museum, are planted in the staid parts of the district.
19 September, 20:00
Long Night of the Museums musikfest berlin 10: Bamberger Symphoniker - Bayer- Concerts BLUE MAN GROUP
ische Staatsphilharmonie 3 August, 18:30
Conductor: Jonathan Nott; Works by Wagner and Boulez
PH
Citadel Music Festival 2010: The Pogues (Irish Rock)
ZS
DISCOVER THE WILD SIDE OF BERLIN
20 & 21 September, 20:00 18 August, 18:30
Staatskapelle Berlin Leonard Cohen (singer/songwriter)
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Pierre Boulez WB
PH
21 August, 19:00
21 September, 20:00 Citadel Music Festival 2010: Reamonn (Rock)
Pianist in Residence: Leif Ove Andsnes (piano) ZS
Works by György Kurtág, Robert Schumann, and Johannes
Brahms 24 August, 18:00
PH Citadel Music Festival 2010: Queens of the Stone Age
(Rock) BLUE MAN GROUP is a spectacula
spectacular
ula
ular
ar sho
sshow:
how: pure fun, witty,
how
22 & 23 September, 20:00 ZS intelligent, unexpected – simply different! BLUE MAN
intelligent
Berliner Philharmoniker GROUP thrills and provokes with creativity, comedy and
© Martin Franken, SMP/Ethnologisches Museum Conductor: Giovanni Antonini; Works by Johann Sebastian 24 August, 21:00 great music. An internationally unique mix of sweeping
Bach, Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach, and Beethoven Anthony B (Dancehall) concert atmosphere, high-class comedy and effects
The ‘Lange Nacht der Museen’ or Long Night of PH CC like you have never experienced before. First BLUE MAN
th e Museums has long been a highlight o f th e GROUP goes under your skin – and then never out of
Berlin calendar, attracting visitors from all corners 25.09.2010, 20.00 Uhr 27 August, 19:00 your head again. Unique in Europe it is staged in Berlin,
o f th e gl o b e as wel l as l o c al s. O n 28 Au gu s t Klassische Konzerte, 240th birthday of Beethoven: Citadel Music Festival 2010: Silly (Rock) in BLUEMAX Theater Potsdamer Platz. An absolute must
museums and galleries across the city will open their Vladimir Mogilevsky (piano) ZS for your Berlin visit. Entertainment for the whole family -
doors from 18:00 until late into the night, offering Beethoven: Sonate G-Dur op. 14 Nr. 2, Sonate B-Dur op. and naturally for guests from all over the world. For them
guests an evening of exhibitions, guided tours and 22, Sonate F-Dur op. 10 Nr. 2, Sonate cis-Moll op. 27 Nr. 2 28 August, 20:00 the show has been revised now. All German-speaking
special events. Tickets are available online: www. PH Citadel Music Festival: Gregorian (Rock) elements were translatetd into English. More than this:
museumsportal-berlin.de and at all participating ZS Language and words are elements of play – the irony
venues, theatre ticket kiosks, Berlin Infostores, of the language has become a new factor of the show.
S-Bahn/BVG ticket machines/customer ser vice
desks. Tickets cost €15/10 (under 12s free). For
Mexiko Bar at Sage 28 August, 20:00 Exactly hearing and closer inspection leads to a cross-
Ich + Ich (Pop) linguistic show experience. BLUE MAN GROUP is now
more information visit www.kulturprojekte-berlin.de/ KI more internationally, more communicatively – and just
en/projects/long-night-of-museums. in English, too. You cannot describe BLUE MAN GROUP,
31 August, 19:00 you have to experience them!
Citadel Music Festival 2010: Runrig (Folk Rock)
algSlihsoh w
6 September, 20:00 ZS
musikfest berlin 10: London Philharmonic Orchestra
r n a t io n
Conductor: Vladimir Jurowski; Works by Webern, Berio, and
Prokofiev
5 September, 20:00
OneRepublic (Pop / Rock)
Inte an and En
G erm
PH HX
race Restaurant or enjoy a cock tail at the legendar y InterContinental D-4, Budapester Str. 2, MI, MZoolo- Pullmann Schweizer Hof D-4, Budapester Str. 25,
Harr y’s New York Bar wi th Li ve Enter tainment ever y gischer Garten, tel. 260 20, fax 26 02 26 00, berlin@ MI, MWittenbergpl., tel. 269 60, fax 26 96 10 00,
ni gh t. Work ou t a t th e Trian gl e H eal th & Spa, j og interconti.com, www.interconti.com. The stretch it’s on H5347@accor.com, www.schweizerhof.com. Business
through the Tiergar ten, Berlin´s Central Park or rent is a yawn, but this West Berlin stalwart has been keeping people, Lufthansa flight crews and conference visitors are
a bicycle directl y at the hotel to discover Berlin. The up with the times. The excellent restaurant Hugos has been well cared for here. All the 26sqm rooms are fitted out with
main train station is onl y 8 minu tes away by ta xi. The relocated to the 14th floor for a stunning view, east-wing modern furniture in bright colours, contemporary art and
three Berlin airpor ts can be reached fast and easil y. Q rooms have been recast into minimalist abodes with fur- bathrooms with bathtubs. The Xxenia restaurant serves
394 rooms (singles/doubles from €99, 40 sui tes from nishings you can rearrange through swivel action, and the new-German cuisine. Fully renovated in 1999, the Dorint is
€145). PHARFGKDC hhhhh spa has been revamped with several saunas. Q584 rooms rightly proud to have the city’s largest hotel pool and sauna
(534 singles €165 - 350, 534 doubles €170 - 400, 50 suites area. Q384 rooms (374 singles €195 - 265, 374 doubles
Grand Hyatt E-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Pl. 2, MI, €215 - 2500). Breakfast €20. PHARUIFLEG €195 - 265, 9 executive suite €315 - 385, 1 presidential
MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 25 53 12 34, fax 25 53 12 KDC hhhhh suite €1500 - ). Breakfast €19. PHARUFLG
35, berlin@hyatt.de, www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com. KDC hhhhh
Par t of the mini-city at Potsdamer Platz, the Grand Hyatt Kempinski Bristol C-4, Kurfürstendamm 27, CB, MUh-
has its own architecture guide and might just be the landstr., tel. 88 43 40, fax 883 60 75, reservations.bris- Radisson Blu Hotel G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3,
coolest hotel in Berlin, arranged according to ancient tol@kempinski.com, www.kempinskiberlin.de. The elite MHackescher Markt, tel. (+49)(0)30 23 82 80, fax
Feng-Shui principles. Perks in the large rooms include Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but this is where (+49)(0)30 238 28 10, info.berlin@radissonblu.com,
books, broadband internet access, and free fruit and well-travelled regulars feel more at home - out of the limelight, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-berlin. Perfectly located on
mineral water. Q 342 rooms (342 singles €220 - 235, but still on a swank corner of Ku’damm. The business lunch the river Spree and opposite the Berliner Dom. The highlight
342 doubles €265 - 280, 14 triples €385 - 400, 5 grand special is a steal. Q301 rooms (249 singles €265 - 326, of the lobby is the Aqua Dom, the world’s largest cylindrical
suites €505 - 520, 5 grand executive suites €870 - 885, 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). Breakfast aquarium boasting 2,500 tropical fish in one million litres of
2 presidential suites €2520 - 3335). PHARU €9.90/23. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh salt water. 427 modern rooms and suites, ten conference
FLEGKDC hhhhh rooms, a bar and a restaurant are available for a stay, meet-
Mandala E-4, Potsdamer Str. 3, TG, MPotsdamer Pl, ing or event. The DomLounge, a unique event location on
Hilton F-2, Mohrenstr. 30, MI, MStadtmitte, tel. tel. 590 05 00 00, fax 590 05 05 00, welcome@madison- the top floor, offers stunning views of the capital. Relaxation
(+49)(0)30 202 30, fax (+49)(0)30 20 23 42 69, berlin.de, www.themandala.de. Excellent rooms and apart- is guaranteed in the spa area with swimming pool, different
inf o.b erlin@hilton.com, w w w.hilton.com. Mayb e ments for both short and long-term stays. The Potsdamer saunas, steam bath and a 24-hour fitness room. Massage
i t’s th e excell en t break fast an d not th e pri vil ege d Platz hotel location has great views over Tiergarten park and beauty treatments are available on request. Q427
view on G en darm enmark t tha t ke eps gu ests comin g and hosts the top-notch Facil restaurant and Qiu lounge; the rooms (405 doubles €149 - 380, 21 suites €450 - 650, 1
back. Like th e li vin g room your paren ts use d onl y Friedrichstrasse Mandala Suites are close to the action in Nikolai suite €850 - 1200). Breakfast €24. PHARUF
wh en gu ests cam e over, th ese rooms have a formal the heart of the city. Q167 rooms (166 suites €130 - 335). GKDC hhhhh
air. Th e l o ca ti on is p er fe c t for a t ten din g summ er Also at Friedrichstraße 185-190 (tel. 20 29 20). Breakfast
con cer ts on th e square an d Mi t te a t trac tions are €21. PHARFLKD hhhhh Ritz-Carlton E/F-4, Potsdamer Platz 3, MI, MPots-
so close you can’t use lon g walks as an excuse for damer Pl., tel. 33 77 77, fax 337 77 55 55, berlin@
indul gin g in th e exotic spa treatmen ts. Q 591 rooms Maritim proArte F-3, Friedrichstr. 151, MI, MFriedrich- ritzcarlton.com, www.ritzcarlton.com. Fake marble
(singles €145 - 345, doubles €145 - 345, sui tes €220 str., tel. 203 35, fax 20 33 42 09, info.bpa@maritim.de, Corinthian columns and a sweeping staircase dominate
- 1145). Break fast €26. PHARUFLEG www.maritim.de. Part of the last private German chain of the lobby, where the classic dark wooden bar opens with
KDC hhhhh hotels, the Maritim is equipped with a huge conference centre, a ceremony every evening at 18:00 and serves over 400
Estrel I-6, Sonnenallee 225, NK, MSonnenallee, tel. swimming pool, sauna and fitness area, shops, restaurants, fine fruit brandies. The French brasserie has sections
683 10/68 31 23 45, info@estrel.com, www.estrel. Hôtel Concorde Berlin C-4, Augsburger Str. 41, black amethyst bathrooms and W-LAN throughout. Each that were actually sent over and rebuilt at the Ritz. The
com. The largest hotel in Germany manages to feel less MKurfürstendamm, tel. (+49)(0)30 800 99 90, fax floor has been named after and decorated by a different English tea lounge remains a favoured tradition but the
like something out of the film Metropolis and more like (+49)(0)30 80 09 99 99, concordeberlin@concorde- Berlin artist of the Young Savages school, and indeed it’s (second) flat screen TV in every bathroom is a newer ad-
a sunny Florida mall. Seven bars and restaurants ring a hotels.com, www.concorde-hotels.com/concorde- the modern art you’ll remember after checking out. Q403 dition for the hotel. An executive lounge, gourmet dining,
slope-roofed atrium above which rise 1,125 rooms and berlin. The latest five-star hotel to open in Berlin, the rooms (374 singles €153 - 223, 374 doubles €172 - 242, 29 ballroom and conference facilities, health club and other
suites. Modern art from the owners’ collection fills the French-run, 11-floor Hôtel Concorde Berlin impresses with suites €300 - 1900). Breakfast €19. PHARUFL superlative services complete this gilt-edged hotel. Q302
public spaces and rooms. The massive conference center its wonderfully designed rooms with sleek fine woods, GKC hhhh rooms (singles €250 - 360, doubles €280 - 440, 40 suites
even includes a glass-enclosed press box for the boxing contemporary art, flatscreen TVs and, on higher floors, €330 - 5000). Breakfast €28. PTHARUFLG
matches that take place here. Even more Las Vegas- fantastic views. The curved corner suites have sliding Marriott E-4, Inge-Beisheim-Pl. 1, MI, MPotsdamer KDC hhhhh
style is the Stars in Concert show in the attached Estrel walls, elegant free-standing bathtubs and electronically Platz, tel. 22 00 00, fax 22 00 01 00, www.marriott.
Festival Center. Superstar look-alikes sing to live music adjustable bathroom window opacity. Back downstairs, com. Ten floors of superb rooms, conference facilities and Savoy Berlin C-4, Fasanenstr. 9-10, CB, MZo-
here and have made the show Berlin’s most successful. there are top-notch conference facili ties, and the Le suites (including the Capital Suite with dining room, piano ologischer Garten, tel. 31 10 30, fax 31 10 33 33,
When booking a room, ask about packages that include Faubourg brasserie. The business centre and wellness and entourage annex room). The lobby has a 3 tonne black info@hotel-savoy.com, w w w.hotel-savoy.com. U t-
it. Estrel is near the S-Bahn, but not central to sights. centre are free to use for all guests. Q311 rooms (singles granite globe spinning serenely on a watery base and the terly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode made
Q 1125 rooms (1125 singles €123 - 235, 1125 doubles €230 - 280, doubles €240 - 300, 44 suites €280 - 950). copper facade of one wall plays an unearthly light show. A Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who knows
€134 - 246, 69 suites €164 - 639, 1 presidential suite Breakfast €28. wellness centre, classic Art Deco NY bar and grill and execu- who you’ll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop off the
€1790). Breakfast €14.50. PHARUFLGKD tive amenities round out one of Berlin’s newest and finest clubby Times Bar. Q125 rooms (45 singles €142 - 222,
hhhh Hotel de Rome F-3, Behrenstr. 37, MI, tel. (+49) hotels. Q379 rooms (350 singles €159 - 219, 350 doubles 62 doubles €152 - 232, triples €192 - 272, 16 suites €202
(30) 460 60 90, fax (+49)(30) 46 06 09 20 00, €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 - 1200, 80 executive room €199 - - 292). ARFKD hhhh
Grand Esplanade D-4, Lützowufer 15, TG, MNol- info.derome@roccofor tecollection.com, w w w.ho- 259). Breakfast €22. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh
lendor fpl., tel. 25 47 80, fax 254 78 82 22, w w w. telderome.com. Overlooking the historical Bebelplatz Seehof A-4, Lietzensee-Ufer 11, CB, MMesse Nord, tel.
esplanade.de. Di s c over th e p opular Gran d H otel square just off Unter den Linden, this top-class hotel Palace D-4, Budapester Str. 45, CB, MZoologischer 32 00 20, fax 32 00 22 51, info@hotel-seehof-berlin.de,
Esplanade Berlin, a completel y renovated and mod- occupies a magnificent palace-like building with three Garten, tel. 250 20, fax 25 02 11 19, hotel@palace.de, www.hotel-seehof-berlin.de. With many rooms overlooking
ern design hotel convenientl y located in between the cour tyards. Originally the headquar ters of the Dresdner www.palace.de. Joining the shopaholics shuttling from the a beautiful lake and park, and located between the Trade Fair
cosmopoli tan Kur fürstendamm and th e Potsdam er Bank from 1889 to 1945. Plenty of lovely original details, Europa Center next door, sightseers ogling the zoo across the and Zoologischer Garten, this is a good place to settle if your
Platz, right next to Berlin’s Central Park the Tiergar ten. wooden panelling, marble (and even shrapnel damage) street, and gourmands feasting at the First Floor restaurant business is in western Berlin. Decoration varies from classical
The hotel is just steps away from the KaDeWe, the pervade the high-ceilinged rooms and communal spaces, are guests schmoozing in the banquet and conference rooms to glam, rooms have large beds with silver/gold gleaming bed-
New National Galler y and the Sony Center. Arri ve at and the bank’s vault is now a 20-metre pool. E xtreme that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak paneling, and fireplaces. posts, blue carpets and brown bathrooms with bathtubs. Both
the glass-covered atrium and enter a world of stylish luxur y in the middle of all the action. Q 146 rooms (103 The staidly furnished rooms are large. Q239 rooms (59 the pleasant terrace and the small indoor pool overlook the
ambiance and per fect ser vice. Enjoy the view of an singles €395 - 495, 103 doubles €395 - 495, 43 suites singles €200 - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites lake. Q75 rooms (singles €105 - 280, doubles €125 - 195,
illuminated water wall while taking a break at the Ter- €595 - 4100). €325 - 2150). PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh 1 suite €215 - 275). PHALGKC hhhh
Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Charlottenstr. elegantly simple rooms, equipped with all modern conveniences, ant by Italian artists, the hotel has spacious standard and
50 - 52, MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. 20 37 50, fax 20 such as allergy-free bedlinen and free wi-fi. Guests can enjoy Astoria comfort rooms with terracotta tiles, cherry wood furniture,
37 51 00, H5342@accor.com, www.sofitel.com. The German cuisine in the Knese restaurant downstairs. Just off the desks and wifi, and a bright top-floor Mediterranean-style
success of this merger between sleek, modern design and Kurfürstendamm, the hotel is a short walk from west Berlin’s main Astoria C-4, Fasanen- breakfast room. Q36 rooms (singles €115 - 150, doubles
1980s East German grandeur is best seen in the impressive attractions and major public transport links. Q131 rooms (singles str. 2, tel. 312 40 67, €140 - 175). TALGBKW
banquet/conference hall, where GDR columns and chandeliers €80 - 150, doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). HLGKW info@hotelastoria.de,
meet a post-modern light-emitting floor. The fabulous top-floor w w w.hotelastoria.de. Ku’Damm 101 B-4, Kurfürstendamm 101, CB, MAde-
fitness and sauna area with great views of the Gendarmen- Best Western President D-4, An der Urania 16 - 18, One of the best hotels nauerpl., tel. 520 05 50, fax 520 05 55 55, info@ku-
markt monuments, the huge buffet breakfast in the light-filled MWittenbergpl., tel. 21 90 30, fax 218 61 20, presi- in town - not for stars or damm101.com, www.kudamm101.com. Modern and styl-
atrium and the in-house Aigner restaurant compensate for the dent@cca-hotels.de, www.cca-hotels.de. Wireless LAN underground parking, but ish, every room is furnished with designer chairs, and a rubber
small rooms, which use smart tricks, like rolling doors, to use cards, huge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables, and an for those most important toy peers back at you from the white-tiled bathroom meant
the available space as efficiently as possible. Q92 rooms (29 old-time clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business factors in the hospitality to emulate the Paris metro. Furnishings echo the 1950s and
singles €175 - 270, 41 doubles €190 - 285, suites €320 - 750). travellers. Hotel with restaurant, bar, fitness centre, parking industry, service and staff, 70s, while 21st century, bi-colour rubber flooring is underfoot.
Breakfast €15-25. PHARUFLGKD hhhhh garage and multifunctional meeting rooms with air condition. both of which are excel- Business travellers will appreciate the high speed wireless
Located next to Kurfürstendamm and KaDeWe, not far from the lent and consistently get LAN access and the proximity to the convention centre, while
Steigenberger Hotel Berlin C/D-4, Los-Angeles-Pl. fairgrounds. Connections to all three Berlin airports and train rave reviews from guests. everyone will like the sunny seventh-floor breakfast room.
1, CB, MKurfürstendamm, tel. 212 70, fax 212 71 17, station „Zoologischer Garten” are excellent. Q178 rooms (25 The rooms are spacious, Q170 rooms (34 singles €101 - 161, 136 doubles €118
berlin@steigenberger.de, www.berlin.steigenberger.de. singles €79 - 155, 153 doubles €96 - 183, 3 suites €189 - 305, newly renovated and come - 178). Breakfast €13. PHARULGBD hhh
Centrally located but overlooking a quiet square, the Steigen- junior suite). Breakfast €14. PHARFGKD hhhh equipped with bath and/or shower and include a good
berger Hotel Berlin presents the standard five star services in breakfast. Set near the Kurfürstendamm and Berlin Zoo, Luisenhof H-4, Köpenicker Str. 92, MI, MMaerkisches
an understated, elegant way. Catering to the businessman as Bleibtreu C-4, Bleibtreustr. 31, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. it’s a good base for expeditions into town, and Astoria Museum/Heinrich-Heine-Str., tel. 241 59 06, fax 279
well as other travellers, there are comfort rooms and execu- 88 47 40, fax 88 47 44 44, info@bleibtreu.com, www. offers a variety of packages so you can combine a stay 29 83, info@luisenhof.de, www.luisenhof.de. From the
tive rooms, as well as suites, plus a choice of restaurants and bleibtreu.com. It’s hard to tell the hip guests from the hip with a visit to Berlin with a guided walk, boat tour or a powder blue colour scheme to the unusually quiet location,
a well appointed wellness centre. Q397 rooms (387 singles neighbours that share the deli and café fronting boutique- trip to Madame Tussauds or the zoo. For dinner options, this building, built in 1822, is an ideal retreat for the busi-
€140 - 319, 387 doubles €169 - 319, 10 suites €439 - 1899). lined Bleibtreustraße. The design hotel’s rooms operate by look no further than the nearby Knese restaurant. Q32 ness traveller. Immaculate rooms have showers, minibars,
PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh remote-controlled amenities but are decorated with natural rooms (singles €89 - 160, doubles €126 - 190, triples and safes, but internet connection is still limited to modem
fabrics and light tones. If only we could all live in such an airy €136 - 210, suites €146 - 220). use. A business plus is the conference room lined with
Swissôtel Berlin C-4, Augsburger Str. 44, CB, and stylish apartment building. Q60 rooms (15 singles €115 windows. In less than five minutes you can reach either the
MKurfürstendamm, tel. 22 01 00, fax 220 10 22 22, - 157, 45 doubles €125 - 182). ARGK U-Bahn or a green lawn opposite the Märkisches Museum
emailus.berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotel-berlin.com. who is alternatively on the go, and stuck inside. The atrium and facing the Spree River. Tourists are just beyond in the
Perfect for the busy business person, the Swissôtel also pampers D.O.M.I.C.I.L. B-4, Kantstr. 111a, CB, MWilmersdorfer lobby impresses with exposed hallways and a Babelsberg historic Nikolaiviertel, but Luisenstadt feels much more au-
those looking to idle in understated luxury. Every room has a Str., tel. 32 90 30, fax 32 90 32 99, info@hotel-domicil- film studio prop: Berlin’s Great Elector (1620-1688) rears thentic and old. Q27 rooms (8 singles €89 - 140, 18 doubles
Lavazza espresso machine and suites are cranking with Bang & berlin.de, www.hotel-domicil-berlin.de. Warm Mediterranean out of a wall on horseback. Ayurvedic treatments, sauna, €109 - 189, 3 triples €124 - 224, 1 junior suite €150 - 250).
Olufsen stereos. When you’re done playing in your room, downtown colours and pinewood are used in D.O.M.I.C.I.L.’s modernly and steambath are on site. Q144 rooms (123 singles €130 HARLGK hhhh
western Berlin beckons. Q316 rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, outfitted rooms. Continuing the theme, the hotel is decorated - 195, 123 doubles €150 - 260, 21 apartments €130 - 300).
219 doubles €160 - 310, 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite with stone basrelief art hewn from the Pyrenees. Breakfast can (Apartments: Breakfast €12). ARUFKD hhhh Mark C-4, Meinekestr. 18-19, CB, MKurfürstendamm,
€260 - 410). Breakfast 21€. PHARFLGD hhhhh be had on the rooftop restaurant’s terrace overlooking western tel. 88 00 28 02, fax 88 00 28 04, info@markhotel.de,
Berlin. Q70 rooms (singles €118 - 143, doubles €154 - 184, Hecker’s C-4, Grolmanstr. 35, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 889 www.markhotel.de. This comfortable hotel sports a lobby
The Regent Berlin F-3, Charlottenstr. 49, MI, MFranzö- suites €204, apartments €138 - 204). HARGB hhhh 00, fax 889 02 60, info@heckers-hotel.de, www.heckers- where dated-looking mirrored columns and an egg-carton-like
sische Str., tel. 203 38, fax 20 33 61 19, www.theregent- hotel.de. A superbly swank place - from the entrance next drop ceiling meets the homey garden-like look of woodwork
berlin.com. Within the luxurious digs of the former Four Seasons Grosser Kurfürst G-4, Neue Roßstraße 11-12, MI, to the steelblue bar to the spacious double rooms, this hotel painted light green. The modern rooms are spacious all have
hotel, the Regent would be stating a truth if it proclaimed from one MMärkisches Museum, tel. 24 60 08 43, fax 24 60 03 breathes subtle class. The three beautiful suites are the pride a bathroom with showers and a fresh flower bloom. The fam-
of its “Juliet” balconies: “That which they call a rose, by any other 00, www.deraghotels.de. Coin-op laundry, kitchenettes, of the management, each with a different design (Bauhaus, ily rooms are a great; the two bedrooms are well separated
name would smell as sweet.” Will the Hollywood celebrities that W-LAN Internet access, discounts for longer stays and the Tuscany and Colonial), wooden floors, large balconies, walk-in from one another, and children under 17 stay free. Guests in
frequently stayed here (especially during February’s film festival) U2 line around the corner make this a great pad for anyone closets and marble bathrooms complete with TV screens next the business class rooms have a separate breakfast room
recognize Shakespeare’s lines? Nothing that drew A-list guests to the mirror. Add the location near Savignyplatz, and you’re set to hobnob in. The location is ideal with the Hard Rock Café,
has changed. The warm public spaces gleam with marble and for a nice stay. Q69 rooms (21 singles €100 - 150, 43 doubles Diekmann restaurant, EasyInternet and Dunkin’ Donuts on
plush guest rooms come with DVDs and even flatscreen TVs in the €100 - 170, 3 suites €300 - 350, 2 junior suite €200 - 230). the block. Q233 rooms (14 singles €79 - 195, doubles
bathroom. Q195 rooms (singles €230 - 360, doubles €260 - 395, Apartments Breakfast €15. PHARULGK hhhh €89 - 195). PRG
suites €360 - 1950, presidential suite €2950 - 3500). Breakfast
€29. PHARUFLGKD hhhhh Whether you’re on a short trip or on a longer work as- Hollywood Media Hotel C-4, Kurfürstendamm 202, Myer’s H-2, Metzer Str. 26, PB, MSenefelder Platz, tel.
signment, renting an apartment is often much cheaper CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 88 91 00, fax 88 91 02 80, info@ 44 01 40, fax 44 01 41 04, info@myershotel.de, www.
Westin Grand F-3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, MI, MFried- than checking into a hotel. filmhotel.de, www.filmhotel.de. Owned by octogenarian myershotel.de. Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an
richstr., tel. 202 70, fax 20 27 33 62, info@westin-grand. film producer Artur Brauner (Bridge Over the River Kwai), this upmarket private hotel catering to individual tourists and busi-
com, www.westin.com/berlin. Built in GDR times for HSH Apartments Mitte hotel is nondiscriminating in its poster selections (Arnold ness travellers. Nearly all classically furnished rooms overlook
Party bigwigs but now completely overhauled, the Westin is a E-2/3, Invalidenstr. 32-33, Schwarzenegger and the Muppets share one area), but rooms the courtyard garden. The singles are small, but the double
classically-furnished delux hotel in an enviably good location. MZinnowitzer Str., tel. 24 named after film stars from the world over are kindly sedate rooms offer adequate space. On the ground floor, a tearoom
From the huge atrium hall (with a copy of the Adlon’s marble 04 91 00, fax 24 04 91 01, with just one headshot and bio on the wall. What’s most like opens up to the pleasant terrace and garden. Q41 rooms
staircase), the round pool, the copyrighted Heavenly Beds and stay@hsh-mitte.de, www. Hollywood is the 100-seat private screening room and the (8 singles €85 - 140, 33 doubles €110 - 175). HARG
the upmarket restaurant to the sumptous suites with butler home-suite-home.de. The fact that every room has air-conditioning, a rarity in Berlin.
service, this place breathes quality. Q358 rooms (25 singles 42 spacious apartments on Q185 rooms (134 singles €85 - 120, 134 doubles €99 - 130, Propeller Island City Lodge B-4/5, Albrecht-Achilles-
€136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15 offer for short and long-term stays are comfortable and 21 apartments €150 - 172). PARULGD hhhh Str. 58, WD, MAdenauerpl., tel. 891 90 16, fax 892 87
junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930). well-equipped, with a kitchen and living room and sleep- 21, reservierung@propeller-island.de, www.propeller-
Breakfast €23. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh ing 1-4 people. Some apartments have balconies and HSH Hotel Albergo - Partner of SORAT Hotels island.de. With utterly individually decorated rooms, this
there is a courtyard garden where you can enjoy breakfast **** B-5, Hohenzollerndamm 33, tel. 86 88 90, fax 86 handcrafted hotel by musician Lars Stroschen is more like
in summer. Guests can use the sauna and fitness room 88 91 03, stay@hsh-albergo.de, www.home-suite-home. Fantasy Island. Fetishists of all sorts can find their niches in
€150-200 at no extra cost. Q 42 rooms (singles €98-195, doubles de. Once a Russian Orthodox cathedral with onion domes rooms like the Space Cube, Mirror Room, Two Lions, Forest,
Berlin Plaza C-4, Knesebeckstr. 63, MUhlandstr., tel. €115-245, 3-4 bed rooms on request, prices lower for until refurbishment in 1938, the corner building that now holds Temple, Electric Wallpaper, Nudes, or Upside Down. Do check
88 41 30, fax 88 41 37 54, info@plazahotel.de, www. long stays). TAUFLGBDW hhhh the Albergo is a good base for exploring western Berlin and the website before making a booking. Q32 rooms (4 singles
plazahotel.de. The Berlin Plaza was renovated in 2006 and offers the nearby Ku’Damm shopping mile. Decorated in flamboy- €65 - 180, 28 doubles €90 - 195). Breakfast €7. AG
Riehmers Hofgarten F-5, Yorckstr. 83, KB, MMehring- Expense account diners could probably eat their way
€75-150 damm, tel. 78 09 88 00, fax 78 09 88 08, info@riehmers- through the city’s best restaurants on a two-week stay. Symbol key
Motel One G-4, Prinzenstr. 40, MMoritzpl., tel. 70 07 hofgarten.de, www.riehmers-hofgarten.de. This grand VAU, Vivo, Hugos, Die Quadriga, and First Floor all have
98 00, www.motel-one.com. Basic but cheap as chips. dame of a 19th-century apartment building maintains her classy German chefs at the helm, though homage to France and P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
A budget hotel with decent standards, the rooms and the composure while the funky shops and gay nightlife unfurl around the Mediterranean work their way onto the menus. Neigh- E Live music S Take away
prices are standard, and check-in outside regular reception the corner on Mehringdamm. She’s unfussy and stylish and near bourhood restaurants and cafés often serve three meals
hours is by computer. Excellent if you’re simply looking for a the popular Bergmannstraße drag. On a balmy evening, join the a day and meld into bars in the later hours. T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
place to crash in style. Breakfast is €5 extra. Q180 rooms Kreuzberg couples making the pilgrimage to the top of Viktori- This chapter reviews the restaurants in Mitte (F/G-2) many of G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
(singles €49, doubles €55). apark. Q22 rooms (2 singles €98 - 108, 20 doubles €123 - 163, which are concentrated around upmarket Gendarmenmarkt
20 triples €143 - 183). ARUGK hhh and the nightlife area on, north and east of Oranienburger O Casino M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz G-3, Alexanderpl. 7, Straße. Turn to p.32 for restaurants in the Potsdamer Platz R Internet W Wi-Fi connection
MI, MAlexanderpl., tel. 238 90, fax 23 89 43 05, berlin. area, and in western Berlin, Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg and
hotel@rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn-berlin.com. In Airport hotels Friedrichshain (see p.5 for more about Berlin’s districts).
terms of transportation options, this might be Berlin’s most Mercure Airport Hotel Berlin Tegel B-1, Kurt-Schumacher-
central hotel and the best choice for the direction-impaired. Damm 202, tel. 410 60, fax 410 67 00, H0791@accor-hotels. Beer houses
Germany’s third-largest hotel rises 40 stories and sits at com, www.mercure.com. This functional and comfortable hotel American Georgbräu G-3, Spreeufer 4, MI, MKlosterstr., tel. (+49)
the transportation hub of desolate Alexanderplatz. Set your is the only option close to Tegel airport. The well-insulated doubles Play Off E/F-4, Alte Potsdamer Str. 7 (Postdamer Platz (0)30 242 42 44, www.georgbraeu.de. With a terrace over-
sights further from your room. The new Business Class cat- all have combined shower/baths. Children under 16 sleep for free. Arkaden), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. (+49)(0)30 25 29 99 looking the river and flanked by a dramatic statue of St. George
egory rooms are newly renovated and all are stocked with a The free shuttle bus can be ordered from the airport information 99, www.play-off.tv. An American sports bar and restaurant slaying a dragon (for no apparent reason), the Georgbräu is a
coffeemaker and ironing board. Q1012 rooms (318 singles desk or by using the free hotel telephone between gates N°7 and in the style of the 1950s, when times were good, and when merry, tourist-orientated brewery serving great beer. The menu
€89 - 125, 671 doubles €89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185). 8. Q184 rooms (singles €69 - 199, doubles €69 - 199). Breakfast we all aspired to the American way of life. You can expect lists wonderful local food, with things like Big Berlin Balls, which
Breakfast €15. POARFGKD hhhh €16. PHARUFLGKDC hhh generous portions of American snacks and food, including a we’re sure to try... next time. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€5-11). B
huge hamburger, and drop by on Mondays for the spare ribs
Park Plaza I-2, Storkower Str. 162, PB, MLandsberger night. Sports events, American and others, are displayed
Allee, tel. 42 18 10, fax 42 18 11 11, www.parkplaza. Apartments on screens and if you’re lucky you’ll meet the chain’s own Cafés
com. The neighborhood surrounding this business-oriented ackselhaus H-2, Belforter Str. 21, PB, MSenefelder cheerleader team. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:30 - 01:00. Cum Laude F-3, Universitäts Str, MI, MFriedrichstr.,
hotel in the Forum Landsberger Allee is a yawn, but you will Platz, tel. 44 33 76 33, fax 441 61 16, info@ackselhaus. tel. (+49)(0)30 208 28 83, www.cum-laude.info. To
sleep well in rooms where curves and angles in the attractive de, www.ackselhaus.de. An In Your Pocket favourite, ack- escape the tourists on Unter den Linden, duck into the side
furnishings declare themselves modern. Five lines of Berlin’s sel’s fully equipped apartments with kitchens are spacious, Asian of Humboldt University for some quiet time with students and
perfectly efficient electric street car (or tram) system stop equipped with WLAN, and each have been individually theme- Kamala F-3, Oranienburger Str. 69, MI, MOranienburger professors. Classical music plays, the room is elegant with
right outside and will whisk you to the heart of shopping and designed (Africa, Lover’s Nest and Water) with antiques Tor, tel. (+49)(0)30 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood. light lemon-coloured walls and dark furniture and you’ll feel
nightlife in Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg in minutes. There’s also and beautiful colours. Throw in the low prices, delicious de. Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmo- like a part of Berlin, even if you, as a Gäste, will pay a little
an S-Bahn station. A five minute jog brings you to the lovely mattresses, the lush garden, the location between the sphere, where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with more for your dish than the Studenten. The kitchen doesn’t
Friedrichshain park. Q155 rooms (1 single €77 - 86, 154 Kollwitzstraße bars and Mitte, and you’ll keep coming back woven placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam get good scores, so stick to soups, the tap beer or coffee and
doubles €92 - 102). PARLGKD for more. Q16 rooms (25 apartments €66 - 165). ARG Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the house-made cake. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
curries are rich and buttery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. (€7-15). AB
Kaffeebank F-2, Unter den Linden 13-15, MI, MFried- the district in 1984, it has resisted trendification, staying
richstr., tel. (+49)(0)30 202 09 30. Get a free peek at true to its warm mishmash décor of art nouveau and poster
the one-room gallery of the Deutsche Guggenheim while also art. The menu offers delicious Central European fare, accom-
refuelling with the cheapest cappuccino (€1.80) to be found on panied by an international wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
the grand boulevard. A tiny coffee bar in the gift shop serves
caffeinated drinks, beer, small cakes and sandwiches. Just
three glass-topped tables with low, cushioned seats join Fine dining
the displays of art books and merchandise. QOpen 11:00 - Aigner F-3, Französische Str. 25, MFranzösiche Str.,
20:00, Thu 11:00 - 22:00. Closes during changes of exhibition. tel. (+49)(0)30 203 75 18 50, info@aigner-gendar-
menmarkt.de, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. One of
Label 205 F-3, Friedrichstr. 68, MI, MStadtmitte, tel. Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international, as Restaurant PARIS-MOSKAU Restaurant TRAUBE Weingarten
(+49)(0)30 20 94 45 45, www.label205.de. A café liter- its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate from Alt-Moabit 141 Reinhardtstrasse 33
ally at the bottom of a huge pile of junk, on the lower level of a famous Viennese cafe that closed in the 1980s. Master
the posh Quartier 205 shopping gallery. Live music is played chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award-winning dishes tel. 394 20 81 tel. 27 87 93 93
here several afternoons a week, varying from ‘light classic’ with ingredients sourced fresh from the market. The ‘cheese www.paris-moskau.de www.traube-berlin.de
and jazz to shopper’s blues. For cheap cocktails visit the duel’ dessert is a competitive way to end your dinner. QOpen
after work parties on Wednesdays. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, 12:00 - 02:00. AU
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PE VAU F-3, Jägerstr. 54/55, MI, MFranzösische Str., tel.
Borchardt F-3, Französische Str. 47, MI, MFranzö- (+49)(0)30 202 97 30, www.vau-berlin.de. It’s easy to
Operncafé F-3, Unter den Linden 5, MI, MFriedrichstr., sische Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 81886262. Borchardt didn’t spell and rhymes with wow, and the latter is the word-of-
tel. (+49)(0)30 20 26 83, www.opernpalais.de. The three have to invest much to make a good first impression - the mouth that has kept chef Kolja Kleeberg’s restaurant fully
Prussian princesses who once lived in this palace would have mere height of the ceiling and the building’s original tile floors booked for the past four years. Using many products from
loved what the current owner has done to the place. Not only whisper class and luxury. The money and creative energy the Berlin area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows his mentor
is a selection of 40 to 50 cakes and pies available each day, goes into the kitchen, which comes up with a different menu Josef Viehhauser’s rule: never more than three products on a
but a complete renovation brought a rococo ambience and each day to keep its regular clientele surprised. Leave the plate. Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sunday.
ceiling paintings in the style of the early 19th century. The pork to the Germans, the beef dishes here are delectable. (€35-38). PARG h
cakes are made in-house and the best place to enjoy them QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€20-30). A
is outdoors on the terrace that seats 650 people. Lunch and
snacks are served too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. B Fischers Fritz F-3, Charlottenstr. 49 (Regent Hotel), French
MI, MFranzösische Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 20 33 63 Ganymed F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 5, MI, MFriedrichstr.,
Sophieneck G-2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, 63, Fischersfritz.berlin@rezidorregent.com, www. tel. (+49)(0)30 28 59 90 46, www.ganymed-brasserie.
MWeinmeister Straße, tel. (+49)(0)30 283 40 65, fischersfritzberlin.com. The restaurant’s name comes de. Strolling along the Spree or after a show at the beloved
www.sophieneck-berlin.de. A favourite of locals and tour- from a tongue-twister and the light, fish-focused menu is for Berliner Ensemble, stop off at Ganymed’s historical rooms
ists alike, Sophieneck is one of the most charming cafés in a very refined palate. Chef Chrisian Lohse has won several Paris-Moskau for Alsatian Flammekuchen, French choucroute and beers,
Mitte. Located near Hackescher Markt since the revamp of of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany. oysters, wines and the menu du soir. The terrace has a
The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since pleased view of the Spree and the trains pulling into Friedrichstrasse
gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in London and Margaux F-3, Unter den Linden 78 (entrance on station. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Kitchen from 12:00 until
the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef). The dining room has Wilhelmstr), MI, MUnter den Linden, tel. (+49)(0)30 24:00. (€7 - 22). AB
light woods, deep carpets and a fireplace. Q Open 6:30- 22 65 26 11, www.margaux-berlin.de. Rich cuisine by
11:30; 12:00 - 14:00; 18:30 - 23:00. PAG Chef Michael Hoffmann at this Michelin-starred restaurant,
which uses only the best ingredients for a daily menu that
Lutter & Wegner F-3, Charlottenstr. 56, MI, MFran- is chosen by quality of supplies. Fish are only line-caught,
zösische Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 202 95 40, www.lutter- mostly in the Atlantic off the coast of France, and legumes
wegner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Classy, traditional, and with a cater for vegetarian gourmands. Save room for the French
link to the actor who put the sparkle in German wine in 1811, cheese plate. Service is gracious, friendly, and professional
this is the place to share a bottle of Sekt before or after a with Mr. Ingo Sperling, the award-winning maitre d’ recom-
concert at the Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a mending dishes and wines from their selection of 700, with
warren of rooms in which to carve out a cosy niche. Germans California Napa Valley becoming a firm favourite. A good way
know their roasts, and you can trust the national committee to sample the cuisine is the €35 three-course lunch or the
that dubbed the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in six-course dinner for €95. Q Open 19:00 - 22:30. Closed
2003. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. The warm kitchen Sun. (€18-48). PAG h
closes at 01:00 while the Weinstube serves cold dishes until
03:00. (€16-22). AB Maxwell F-2, Bergstr. 22, MI, MRosenthaler Pl., tel.
(+49)(0)30 280 71 21. The restored redbrick courtyard of
the Josty Brewery is the come-on to passers-by. The scents
of nouvelle French and German cooking and the mature,
artsy-looking crowd nail the curious to a seat. Dinner items
DAILY 11.00 – 24.00 include leg of lamb with Jerusalem artichoke and lime mari-
nated guinea fowl with a mash of aubergine and mushrooms.
Modern and light German food on QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. AB
Berlin‘s catwalk no.1 Paris-Moskau E-3, Alt-Moabit 141, TG, MHauptbahn-
hof/Lehrter Bahnhof, tel. (+49)(0)30 394 20 81, www.
paris-moskau.de. Many S-Bahn passengers assume this
lonely and unusual half-timber house from 1898 is related
Kastanienallee 82 | 10435 Berlin Prenzlauer Berg to the railroad, as it sits along the tracks that link Paris and
(030) 780 089 - 550 | www.gls-restaurant.de Moscow. But the fine restaurant inside has more connections
to the Mediterranean. Dishes including lamb rack with roasted
U2 Eberswalder Str. U8 Rosenthaler Platz artichokes and gnocchi. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00 (Mon to Fri),
Sophieneck daily 18:00 - 23:30. (€20-25). A Maxwell
Maxwell
German restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn
used to stand on a street on the island 200m to the south-
west. When the war ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s,
the inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care an
Ampelmann for authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced
Bergstraße 22 Berlin specialities with curious translations, such as ‘brown
Berlin-Mitte rolls with dripping.’ QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€7-10). AB
Open daily from 18:00
Zur Letzten Instanz G-3, Waisenstr. 14, MI, MK-
tel: 280 71 21 losterstr., tel. (+49)(0)30 242 55 28, www.zurletz-
www.mxwl.de teninstanz.de. Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the
Aapka tourist path, and maybe that’s why German leaders bring
visiting heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too
Ständige Vertretung F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, MI, noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and
German Mutter Hoppe G-3, Rathausstr. 21, MI, MAlexanderpl., MFriedrichstr., tel. (+49)(0)30 282 39 65, www. Gerhard Schröder brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin
Alpenstueck F-2, Gartenstr. 9, MI, MNordbahnhof, tel. (+49)(0)30 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.de/mut- staev.de. Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003. QOpen 12:00 -
tel. (+49)(0)30 21 75 16 46, info@alpenstueck.de, terhoppe. Head down the winding staircase into this restau- happy when they had to move to Berlin. They sent their 23:00. Closed Sun. (€8 - 13). ARGB
www.alpenstueck.de. Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian rant in the Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided favorite Bonn hangout (named after the West-German
potato salad maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes ‘embassy’ in the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-
a few of the dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer and historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy back politician’s meeting point supplies the homesick Indian
restaurant with a traditional twist. Chef Peter Geissler meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers with their beloved Kölsch beer and Rhineland special- Aapka G-2, Kastanienallee 50, MRosenthaler Platz, tel.
prepares southern German and Austrian home cooking sides not served at other German restaurants, including green ties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen), but the menu has (+49)(0)30 44 01 04 94, www.aapka.de. Located on a
with fresh ingredients, changing the menu every three beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try their sister a selection of Berlin food as well. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00. pretty street corner near trendy Zionskirchplatz, Aapka offers
days. A feast for the eyes and the palate. QOpen 18:00 restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further towards the (€4-13). AB healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes in a relaxed bar and
- 24:00. Closed Mon. Spree. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (€9-15). E restaurant with outside seating. You can drop by for the daily
Treffpunkt Berlin F-3, Mittelstr. 55, MI, MFriedrich- changing lunch menu and on Sunday join the young Prenzl’
Die Schule G-2, Kastanienallee 82, PB, MEberswalder Operntreff F-3, Unter den Linden 5, MI, MFriedrichstr., str., tel. (+49)(0)30 204 18 19. This smoky pub is one Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun
Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant. tel. (+49)(0)30 20 26 83, www.opernpalais.de. The of the few simple places with a neighbhourhood feel off 11:00 - 01:00.
de. Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. dance and cocktail bar inside the Opernpalais Unter den Friedrichstr. The kitchen turns out Berlin specialities and
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect Linden serves guests over 50 varieties of cocktails in a casual the bar stores a special snack too: “Sol Ei,” a boiled egg Mirchi F-2/3, Oranienburgerstr. 50, MI, MOranien-
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace environment that’s steeped in history. Apart from various that’s been stored in salty water. It’s served with condi- burger Tor, tel. (+49)(0)30 28 44 44 82. Mirchi offers
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these rooms artistic programmes throughout the week, you can dance to ments and the friendly staff can help explain the ritual. Indian and Singaporean fusion cuisine, tamed down to suit the
used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Visit on Sundays QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - German palette, but nevertheless pleasing. The Tageskarte
the German food classics, and even better: you can have between 11:00 and 14:00 for the famous Jazz-brunch with 20:00. (€7-13). N lunch menu (until 17:00) is especially attractive, with vegetar-
them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples the Swing Dance Band (€29.50 including a glass of Prosecco ian, chicken and lamb options priced €4-7; in the evenings the
of everything the local cuisine is famous for. QOpen 11:00 and coffee). QOpen 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. E We i h e n s t e p h a n e r G - 3 , N e u e P r o m e n a d e 5 , selection gets wider and dearer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also
- 24:00. BW MI, MHackescher Markt, tel. (+49)(0)30 25 at (H-3) Oranienstr. 204, KB, tel. 61 62 99 93. (€4-20). AB
Rotisserie Weingrün G-4, Gertraudenstr. 10-12, 76 28 71. T hi s i s t h e on e ea ter y on t h e sunn y
Habel Weinkultur F-3, Luisenstr. 19, MI, MFriedrich- MSpittelmarkt, tel. (+49)(0)30 20 62 19 00, info@ s quare n ex t to t h e Ha cke s ch er Mar k t t rain s ta ti on
str., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 09 84 84, www.wein-habel.de. rotisserie-weingruen.de, www.rotisserie-weingruen.de. t h a t d eli vers a “h ey, t hi s i s G er man y!” exp eri en c e. International
Set in the arches under the rumbling S-Bahn tracks and in Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was Par t of t h e Wi eh en s teph an er b re wer y, t h e re s tau- Alberts H-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 35, MI, MSchillingstraße,
an adjacent grand building, this excellent ‘wine brasserie’ once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple interior is ran t h as dir n d el-cla d wai t re s s e s wh o s er ve simpl e tel. (+49)(0)30 24 72 72 50, www.alberts-berlin.com.
serves delicious German and international cuisine backed up a great place to sample regional grill dishes such as Branden- a n d s a t i s f y i n g B a va r i a n s p e c i a l i t i e s ( l i ke w h i t e A bustling, modern café, lounge bar, club and restaurant with
by their shop offering a stunning selection of wines. QOpen burg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar is stocked sau sa ge s). T h e ou td o or ta bl e s h a ve t ypi cal blu e- a large terrace that appeals to breakfasting singles, lunching
07:00 - 24:00. (€9-19). AB with wines from the owner’s own vineyards in the Pfalz. The an d-whi te ch e cke d ta bl e cl o t h s; in si d e, t h e ro om s businessmen as well as partying youngsters. There’s a great
restaurant offers good views over the Spree canal. QOpen are r u s ti c b u t el e gan t. A sin gin g zi t h er mu si cian weekend brunch buffet, pasta on Mondays, an all you can
Hackescher Hof G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 40-41, MI, 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. € 8-18. A si ts in t h e fron t ro om an d ja z z take s pla c e in t h e eat barbecue feast on Wednesdays and for internet junkies
MHackescher Markt, tel. (+49)(0)30 283 52 93, www. b a ck c our t yard on M on da y. Q Op en 11:00 - 23:00. free wifi with laptops available for guests. Q Open Mon.-Fri.
hackescher-hof.de. This spacious restaurant at an eye- Schwarzwaldstuben F-3, Tucholskystr. 48, MI, MO- (€6-14). AEB 09:00 - open end; Sat.-Sun. 10:00 - open end
catching position within the Hackesche Höfe complex didn’t ranienburger Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 09 80 84. Bambi
bother coming up with its own name, nor does it seem to meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwar-
have invested any energy in coming up with a good team in zwaldstuben, which has a friendly atmosphere, bedraggled
the kitchen. The food is disappointing, so best stick to coffee animal heads mounted on the walls and heavy mix-matched
and a snack. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 03:00. furniture. Regional treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like
(€6-17). AB pockets in broth) and Jägerschnitzel, plus Eichbaum beer
on tap. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Mittmann’s G/H-3, Rungestr. 11, MI, MHeinrich- (€5-13). B
Heine-Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 279 35 02, www.mitt-
manns.de. Old German advertising covers the brick walls
of this old-style Berlin restaurant that’s been here since
before the fall of the Wall. Now there’s American license
plates lining a ceiling beam. The wait staff can make
suggestions based on what you’re in the mood for, and
the kitchen does well with its Kalb (veal) and fish dishes.
The restaurant is on the small side, so consider making
a reservation. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (€8-16). NB Weihenstephaner
Traube F-2, Reinhardtstr. 33, MI, MFriedrichstr., tel. Our selection of Bars, clubs and pubs in the Mitte area. Reingold F-2, Novalisstr. 11, MI, MOranienburger Tor,
(+49)(0)30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Grape tel. (+49)(0)30 28 38 76 76, www.reingold.de. A lounge
is a wine restaurant serving gourmet ‘Alpine’ cuisine together glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with an oversize
with an excellent range of wines in an elegant building from Bars drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring, Klaus and Erika,
1840. Chefs Christian Gau and Jörg Paulick (the tallest chefs Atrium Lobby Lounge & Bar G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. and leather and velvet seating. Though it often has a DJ, no
in town at 4,14m combined) conjure up extraordinary cross- 3, tel. (+49)(0)30 238 28 34 70, www.berlin.radisson- one dances here. It’s a setting for making stationary moves
over dishes from southern Germany, Elsas, Switzerland sas.com. The Atrium Lobby Lounge & Bar, underneath the on your date, or your tapas. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or spectacular AquaDom with its 2500 fishes swirling around, 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
compose their own menus, with our without wines. QOpen is the perfect place to meet up with friends for coffee and
12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00. Closed Sun. cake, light snacks or to enjoy delicious cocktails to unwind Silberfisch F-3, Oranienburger Str. 37, MI, MOra-
after a busy day. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. nienburger Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 38 73 88. In this
tiny, cave-like setting, off-duty waiters mingle with people
Italian Belushi’s Bar G-2, Rosa Luxemburg Str. 39-41, who really shouldn’t be out that late. A DJ lays tracks from
Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle G-2, Auguststr. 34, MI, MRosa-Luxemburg-Platz, www.belushis.com. Belushi’s a pulpit and people dance when the spirit so moves them.
MRosenthaler Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 281 90 23, info@ is a home away from home for sports fans, beer lovers, and This is the best option in Mitte after other bars have closed.
alcontadino.com, www.alcontadino.com. On nights when connoisseurs of delicious home-made burgers. Based on the Be prepared for screeching noises as patrons climb out
other restaurants on the street have more staff than guests, this American sports bar, this friendly chain pub especially caters into the early morning sun. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat
mouthful of an Italian restaurant has to turn passersby away. The for English speakers and anyone who can’t bear to miss a 20:00 - 08:00.
entrance looks like that of an apartment, and you get to squeeze crucial match. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.
by the kitchen before dropping down into the dining room visible Strandbad Mitte F-2, Kleine Hamburger Str. 16, MI,
from the street. QOpen 18.00 - 24.00. (€11-20). PTNG Delicious Doughnuts G-2, Rosenthaler Str. 9, MI, MRosenthaler Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 24 62 89 63, www.
MRosenthaler Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 09 92 74, www. strandbad-mitte.de. Off Auguststraße, Kleine Hamburger
Traube Schwarzenraben G-3, Neue Schönhauser Str. 13, MI, doughnuts.de. Though the DJs in this loungy bar sometimes Straße dead ends against a fenced-in football pitch and
MWeinmeisterstr., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 39 16 98, www. don’t actually mix, the crowd does, and that’s what might Strandbad where all the cool thirty-something kids come
HEat G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3, tel. (+49)(0)30 238 schwarzenraben.de. Large halfround windows let light flood get you on the small dance floor. The cover runs €3 Wed with their bikes (and for children there’s also a playground
28 34 72, info@heat-berlin.de, www.heat-berlin.de. HEat in to this elegant café-restaurant. Take your place in the long, - Sat, but at least a standard cocktail is only €5. QOpen opposite). QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
with its show kitchen offers dishes with authentic influences: arched room and order excellent Italian specialities from the regu- 22:00 - 03:00. E
spicy dishes from the Indian Tandoor oven, crispy crusts from larly changing menu or sip one of the over 100 Italian wines. An
the wood oven and freshly grilled dishes from the Rotisol. In excellent place for breakfast, to read the paper by day or to dine Goldman’s Bar G-2, Weinbergsweg 1a, MI, MRosen- Clubs
addition to the big terrace and the spectacular view of the the night away. Q Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:30 - 24:00. (€19-25). thaler Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 39 14 33. For a real tourist Dante G-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10, MHackescher Markt,
Berliner Dom, the restaurant offers a wide range of excellent information exchange, head to the basement of the Circus tel. (+49)(0)30 24 72 74 01, info@dante-club.de, www.
wines from all over the world. Flame, the private dining room, hostel where backpackers trade tips over cocktails that are as dante-club.de. The Dante on Hackescher Markt is a re-
has a separate door to the Spree terrace and is perfect for Japanese cheap as they come in Mitte. Bold post-30 visitors will like the nowned club, international restaurant and popular location for
a private diner or a small meeting and can be booked for up Sushi Circle F-3, Französische Str. 48, MI, MFranzö- Atari games from the late 1970s. Wednesday night is karaoke events all in one. In the centre of the lively capital city, it has
to 12 people. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. Breakfast (€24) until sische Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 20 38 79 60. This sushi bar night and quiz takes place Fridays. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00. a large summer terrace and an atmospheric open air lounge.
10:30, Sun 11:00. caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels in the area
and more to shoppers and office workers on the go. If you’re Keyser Soze F-2, Tucholskystr. 33, MI, MOranien-
Oranium F-3, Oranienburger Str. 33-34, MOranien- not quick enough to grab the pieces passing by on the bar’s burger Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 59 94 89. Crap service, but
burger Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 30 88 29 67, www.oranium. conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle around again. If not, this renowned bar is perfect on all other accounts. The food,
de. Just down the street from the Neue Synagoge, Oranium ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle to whip a request off drinks, 20s-30s crowd, location, mysterious name, men’s
is a pleasant all-day café/restaurant/bar with plenty of dark for you. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (€1-7). toilets and the fact that Toast Hawaii is listed under German
wood, a long bar and pretty lights. There are great breakfasts specialities all add to its greatness. We can recommend the
(served until 16:00), lunches and good-value dinner options. lamb chop, and Swabian specialities including Maultaschen
The menu is as international as it can get; for something (meat-filled ravioli, Wed only). QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. B
special try the German Wrap - wrapped around two kinds of
sausage - or the chicken with strawberry/chili sauce. Wash Mai Tai Bar F-3, Mohrenstr. 30 (Hilton Hotel), MI,
it all down with a cocktail or two. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, MStadtmitte, tel. (+49)(0)30 202 30. There’s live music
Sat 09:00 - 03:00. (€3-15). nightly, but no hula-dancing at this South Pacific-themed bar
fronting Trader Vic’s restaurant. The blue-lit ceiling casts
Refugium F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, MI, MStadtmitte, an underwater glow to the room, though the carpeting is
tel. (+49)(0)30 229 16 61, www.restaurant-refugium. just wrong for a tropical paradise. The well-mixed cocktails’
de. Set in the rear of the French Church on Gendarmenmarkt names suggest narratives, like the Samoan Fog Cutter and
and named after the Huguenot refugees who erected the Suffering Bastard, but shouldn’t they be paying us to order
church, this elegant Baroque eatery serves a good variety of a drink that sounds like a disease - Shingle Stain? QOpen
dishes at low prices (considering the top location, anyway). 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. E
QOpen from 11:00. (€12,80-32). AB
Mitte Bar F-2, Oranienburger Str. 46, MI, MOranien-
Reinhardt’s G-3, Poststr. 28, MI, MKlosterstr., tel. burger Tor. Respectable enough for people with spending
(+49)(0)30 242 52 95. Reinhardt’s friendly staff can whisk power, yet shabby enough to fit seamlessly into the Mitte
a coffee to your table in no time, or if you’re here for the food, bar scene. A relaxed patch by day for French breakfast
one of the light meals. The large restaurant is situated in the or coffee-slurping, the evenings become interesting, with
Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break during a city cocktail-testing and on weekends DJs mixing house. QOpen
walk. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€10-20). AB 10:00 - 01:00.
Suppenbörse F-3, Dorotheenstr. 43, MI, MFriedrich- Newton Bar F-3, Charlottenstr. 57, MI, MFranzösische
str., tel. (+49)(0)30 20 64 95 98, www.suppenboerse. Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 20 29 54 21, www.newton-bar.de.
de. A stand-up or takeaway soup joint, with a wide variety of Men smoke cigars beneath Helmut Newton’s life-size shots of
liquid lunches. Get the world watered down in a bowl with the nude Amazons and their dates sip expertly made cocktails.
Mexican, Thai, French or local soups. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Dress sharp to compliment all the black leather and dark
Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (€4). S green marble. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.
For a night out with the locals, head out into a Kiez, the generic
term for a particularly lively sub-neighbourhood of a city district. Symbol key
Eating out and bar hopping is easy in Berlin because there
are so many restaurants, bars, pubs and clubs to dip and dive P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
your way through. With all the choices in each neighbourhood, E Live music S Take away
people tend to stick to one area once the night begins (or if
they’re exhausted from the sightseeing, to stay close to their R Internet U Facilities for the disabled
hotel). Though there’s a range of places in each district, bars in G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
Potsdamer Platz and western Berlin are often more clean-cut
and targeted at the over-30 set. Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuz- O Casino M Nearest U/S-Bahn station
berg have a mix of hole-in-the-wall and trendy venues, while
Dante Friedrichshain is really for the unwashed and adventurous.
On the Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday club nights, Soda Club
Dante offers the perfect setting for Berliners and visitors to Prenzlauer Berg
celebrate a party in good company. The latest music and a Roter Salon G-2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. 2,
professional team create a party atmosphere till the early MI, MRosa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 24 06 58
morning hours. QOpen from 09:00. 06, www.roter-salon.de. This place probably began with a Cafés
faded elegance, but let’s say it’s just settled in after ten years Immer gern H-1, Dunckerstr. 10, PB, MEberswalder
Grüner Salon G-2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. 2, of clubbers bouncing off its red walls. Most nights feature Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 55 14 57 85, www.immergern.de.
MI, MRosa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 24 59 89 electro pop, electro lounge, and electroclash - the music A groovy café and cocktail bar on the sunny side of trendy
36, www.gruener-salon.de. Chandeliers dress up this oc- Berlin is known for. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun. Helmholtzplatz square. Sink into the comfy couches for coffee,
casional club venue, talk-show stage, and cabaret. Grab your cakes and crepes during the day, or mingle with the locals
partner for standard evenings like Thursday Tango and Friday Soda Club Schönhauser Allee 36, tel. 44 31 51 55, later on in the day when DJs and baristas spin disks and
Swing. Q Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. info@soda-berlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. In the court- liquor bottles. Smoking room provided. QOpen from 12:00.
yard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with
Kaffee Burger G-2, Torstr. 60, MI, MRosa-Luxemburg- an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played on Thursdays Kaffee Fröhlich H-2, Belforter Str. 22, PB, MSenefelder
Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. and Sundays (starting off with a free lesson hour), and on Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 41 72 52 42. Twenty-two years ago,
The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors with electro, owner Herr Daska planted the trees that shade your Czech
decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in- crossover, black and dance classics played - and girls get in or German beer. Patronized by neighbourhood intelligentsia,
the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir for free till 01:00. Check the website for special events.Q grannies and young families, Kaffee Fröhlich isn’t a trendy
Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happen- Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00. hotspot, but a place where Daska plans to grow old. The Die Schule
ings like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with menu of new and traditional Berlin cuisine changes daily and
DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba. Week-End Club G-3, Alexanderplatz 5, MAlexander- all sauces and condiments are house-made. Breakfast is Zum Schusterjungen G-1, Danziger Str. 9,
QOpen from 21:00. E platz, www.week-end-berlin.de. A club/bar/galerie/lounge served until 16:00 and the last call for supper is 23:00. Feel MEberswalder Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 442 76 54.
set on the 12th floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Rei- free to bring your favorite record and lay it on the turntable. After a strenuous afternoon strolling around the quaint
sens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’) Q Open 12:00 - 02:00; Sun 10:00 - 02:00. NB shops and cosy cafés of Prenzlauer Berg, the historic
on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße. QOpen 23:00 - 04:00. Schusterjunge is the ideal place to recharge your bat-
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. €6-8. teries. A large glass of cool local beer, then it’s on to
German the man-sized schni tzel wi th fried potatoes and red
Die Schule G-2, Kastanienallee 82, PB, MEberswalder cabbage. The tasty German menu is modest, but so
Pubs Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant. are the prices, and the staff are friendly and attentive.
Kilkenny Irish Pub G-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, de. Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00.
MHackescher Markt, tel. (+49)(0)30 2832084, www. Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect place
kilkenny-pub.de. The 3 large rooms directly in the train to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace facing
station Hackescher Markt offer more than enough space for the street and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used International
natives and tourists to meet & mingle, drink, party and, of to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the Ger- Café Istoria H-2, Kollwitz Str. 64, PB, MSene-
course, follow international sporting events live. 2 large TVs man food classics, and even better: you can have them all at f elder Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 44 05 02 08, w w w.
and 2 big screens make sure that, even in the farthest corner, once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples of everything istoria-berlin.de. One of the more reasonabl y priced
Soda
you won’t miss a single goal. Irish & German beer, whiskey, and the local cuisine is famous for. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. BW restaurants on Kollwitzplatz, Istoria star ts the day with
other nice cold beverages flow more freely than the nearby h ear t y break fasts (ser ved until 16:00) that include
Spree river. QOpen from 10:00. Metzer Eck G-2, Metzer Str. 33, PB, MSenefelder Pl., tel. omelettes (not as easy to find in Berlin as you’d think).
(+49)(0)30 442 76 56, www.metzer-eck.de. Opened 1913, Evening diners have a wide variet y to choose from:
time seems to have stood still in the oldest tavern in Prenzlauer turkey wi th cranberr y sauce, 16 pizzas, or homemade
Club
Berg - and that’s the way the regulars like it. The Eck serves gnocchi or parpadelle. The menu is international, bu t
inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, Boulette (hamburger), since the chef is I talian, you can never go wrong wi th
and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), and has a letter from artist pasta. Q Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
Heinrich Zille to the first tavern owner hanging on the back wall, (€3-8). B
as well as a savings box that regulars once contributed to. Q
Open 16:00 - 01:00; Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (€5-9). Drei H-1, Lychener Str. 30, PB, MEberswalder Str.,
tel. (+49)(0)30 41 71 57 18, www.restaurant-drei.
Zander G-2, Kollwitzstr. 50, MSenefelder Platz, tel. de. California shakes hands with Asia on a streetcorner
(+49)(0)30 44 05 76 78, www.zander-restaurant.de. overlooking trend y Helmhol tzplatz. Though pleasant,
This award-winning restaurant epitomizes the culinary revival of you’ve seen the designer interior before - it’s the food
House - R´n´B - Soul east Berlin: it’s a fine blend of tradition, innovation, and casual
professionalism. Using mainly regional products, Zander serves
that makes th e expedi tion nor th wor th while. Taste
dishes like Pacific-style duck, Indonesian satay and
Danceclassics - electro mouth-watering German and international cuisine and excellent
wines in a stylish and intimate setting. Though the zander is
things containing lemongrass, or something lighter for
lunch, like the tuna sandwich. Q Open 18:00 - 02:00,
KulturBrauerei Kilkenny Irish Pub
a house speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are
highly recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B
Sun 10:00 - 02:00. Also at Savignypl. 2, CB. (€10-16).
PAB
Gugelhof H-2, Knaackstr. 37, PB, MEberswalder Str., sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any time while trawling through the myriad liquid delights on
tel. (+49)(0)30 442 92 29, www.gugelhof.com. During Italian explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak offer. The staff know their stuff, the ingredients are first
the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification, the success of Pizzeria i Due Forni G-2, Schönhauser Allee 12, English. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. class, and there are snacks available for those needing
little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state: Gerhard Schröder, MSenefelder Platz, tel. (+49)(0)30 44 01 73 33. Closed Mon. (€9-11). sustenance after the third Mojito. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00,
Joschka Fischer, Madeleine Albright, and that voracious eater Bill Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. B
Clinton made a surprise visit to this former working-class district service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel
in May 2000. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; of an overcrowded student canteen in Rome. But the cheap Latin American Wohnzimmer H-1, Lettestr. 6, PB, MEberwalder Str.,
this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian-style and cheerful pizza is highly praised, and the lively, convivial Frida Kahlo H-1, Lychener Str. 37, MEberswalder tel. (+49)(0)30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. If
pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is friendly. Q Open atmosphere of i Due Forni is the perfect primer for a night Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 445 70 16, www.fridakahlo.de. A the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would
16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-17). A out on the town. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. UB gastronomic homage to the legendary Mexican painter, Frida vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set
Kahlo is one of the most established eateries in Prenzlauer up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDR-era tables are
Nocti Vagus G-2, Saarbrücker Str. 36, PB, MSenefelder Platz, Berg. Offering deliciously authentic Mexican dishes as well constantly being shuffled to make room for the rumpled but
tel. (+49)(0)30 74 74 91 23, www.noctivagus.de. Fabulous - an Japanese as special brunch and daytime snacks, this tastefully deco- attractive crowds. There’s coffee and pastries in the morning.
utterly dark restaurant. Blind and visually impaired waiters will seat you Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm H-2, Rykestr. 45, rated restaurant on leafy Helmholtzplatz is open from late QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.
safely at your table, where you can stimulate all senses other than PB, MSenefelderpl., tel. (+49)(0)30 44 04 57 06. morning until after midnight. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
sight with the food and the live performances. Make reservations, Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd 09:00 - 03:00.
mention if you’re an English-speaker, and plan to spend at least two this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, Clubs in Prenzlauer Berg
hours here. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (€28-50). AEG California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All Geburtstagsklub H-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, PB,
Spanish MRosa-Luxemburg-Pl., tel. (+49)(0)30 42 02 14 05,
Tres Tapas H-1, Lychener Str. 30, MEberswalder Str., www.geburtstagsklub.de. Twenty year-olds fill the two
tel. (+49)(0)30 41 71 57 18, www.tres-tapas.de. Open low-ceilinged rooms of this otherwise spacious cellar. Like
from early evening to early morning, with a Spanish brunch on at many clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a
offer Sundays, Tres Tapas is one of only a handful of Spanish dark courtyard. The line-up changes every weekend. Q Fri,
restaurants in Prenzlauer Berg, and probably one of the best. Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.
Popular for its fresh fish dishes, it also tempts its guests with
a wide range of tapas, decent to excellent Spanish wines, and Icon G-1, Cantianstr. 15, PB, MEberswalder Str.,
young, friendly waiting staff. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. www.iconberlin.de. The best drum n’ bass DJs in Europe,
including London’s Optical and Grooverider, descend into the
cavernous cellars of a brewery (built 1898) on Saturday night.
Bars in Prenzlauer Berg Between hits on the cement dance floor, take it easy in the
Fluido H-2, Christburger Str. 6, MSenefelder Platz, lounge areas with low sofas or high back padded benches.
tel. (+49)(0)30 44 04 39 02. This ‘Bar di Notte’ is one Friday night is for electric, hip hop, and funk fans. Berlin DJs
of the best places in Prenzlauer Berg for night owls to get to shake their reputation and play whatever they want on
enjoy some of the finest cocktails in town. The trick is Tuesday Electric Icon nights. Q Open Tue, Fri & Sat 23:00 -
Frida Kahlo Tres Tapas to choose quickly: you can easily lose precious drinking 07:00. Admission €3-6.
Western Berlin
Some of Berlin’s best restaurants reside in hotels in SUKSAN
the Charlottenburg district (C-3), and there are plenty
Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a
of esteemed chef-owned restaurants as well. Places in
temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the
Schöneberg (D-4) and western Tiergarten (D-3) are
heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with
also listed here. West Berliners tend to be more affluent
captivating aromas and tasty combinations that
and fashion-conscious, and the bar and restaurant scene
will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and
caters to that. Young people go out here too, but those
healthy and original ingredients are central to our
over thirty will appreciate the more professional service,
dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine.
more mature company, and the low count of penny-
Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests
pinching hipsters.
in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip
to the land of smiles.
American
Hard Rock Café C-4, Meinekestr. 21, CB, MUhland- Café im Literaturhaus
str., tel. 88 46 20, www.hard-rock-cafe.de. The T-shirts
sold at this restaurant must be among the best-recognised Cafés
on the planet. This is the place to head to meet both foreign- Café de Paris D-4, Budapester Str. 35, CB, MWitten-
ers and locals looking for huge piles of food (ranging from bergplatz, tel. 25 79 44 87. Opposite the zoo aquarium and
burgers and pasta to Tex-Mex) and staff who actually like with a large terrace overlooking a square, this French-owned
their jobs. The decoration is similar to that of all restaurants café is a typical Parisian bistro in central Berlin. Specialising
in the chain - crammed with popstar memorabilia such as in entrecôte charolaise, merguez maison, quiches lorraines
guitars, records and clothing. And yes, they do occasionally and coq au vin, the café is also known for its home-made
play hard rock. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. pâtisseries. Popular with bankers, travellers and lovers of life.
(€8-17). PAEGB QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AUG
Julep’s New York Bar & Restaurant B-4, Giesebre- Ansbacherstrasse 4
Café im Literaturhaus C-4, Fasanenstr. 23, CB, MUh-
chtstr. 3, CB, MAdenauerpl., tel. 881 88 23, www. landstr., tel. 882 54 14. Some guests may be sporting
(corner of Kurfürstenstrasse)
juleps-berlin.de. The concept is to emulate an old New three-piece suits, straw hats, polished canes and freshly
tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.
York speakeasy - an illegal bar during the prohibition years fluffed pups, but you don’t have to be all that precious about
in the U.S. - but what law-dodging drinker was ever privilege eating at this literary hangout. Food (served until 24:00)
to home-baked bread, house-smoked fish and chicken, and runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics,
friendly service? Don’t expect a bar menu: the caliber of the to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that are
kitchen overseen by a culinary institute-trained New Jersey Austrian pleasant to dine in on a sunny day. Adjacent is a well-stocked
native matches that of the expertly made cocktails. Even a Ottenthal C-4, Kantstr. 153, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 313 Schnitzelei B-3, Röntgenstr. 7, CB, MRichard-Wagner- bookstore. QOpen 09:30 - 01:00. (€5-17). GB
simple appetizer like potato chips comes homemade with 31 62, www.ottenthal.de. The pleasure in this intimate, Pl, tel. 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Nearly as far
lemon-pepper oil and rosemary sea salt. Menu items change classy bistro is that of fresh, seasonal ingredients, often from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten Grenander Morning Glory D-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a,
every six weeks and everything is prepared fresh to order. from the owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily specials might track, but well worth looking up. No tacky alpine decorations MWittenbergpl., tel. 23 62 84 36, www.grenander.de.
Strip loin and rib eye steak come in S, M, and L. QOpen include foam of goose liver or venison pie with apple-celery here, but a light take on the genre, with oak patterns and Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at the
17:00 - 24:00. €9-16.30. salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service subdued lighting creating a good vibe. There are delicious counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for breakfast,
is excellent, and you can rely on wine recommendations (the schnitzels in different variations, though you may try the Ger- lunch or indeed something else to glorify your morning.
Route 66 C-4, Pariser Str. 44, WD, MUhlandstr., tel. list is extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal man tapas or have the great Sunday brunch buffet. QOpen QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
883 16 02, www.route66diner.de. Kudos to this dual such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€8-15).
level über-diner of tableside jukeboxes and murals of Route is truly one of our favourite spots. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Leysieffer C-4, Kurfürstendamm
66 attractions. This joint does a homesick American good, (€14-18). AB 100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin 218, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 885 74
even if the burgers aren’t grilled. The local twenty-somethings 80, www.leysieffer.de. If you’re going
filling the booths appreciate the affordable and huge Tex-Mex to do it just once in Berlin, have your cake
dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00, Sun
10:00 - 05:00. (€5-12). AGB TRAVEL FAR. here. For those who really shouldn’t,
you can shave off at least a euro by
purchasing one of the day-old pastries
Asian EAT AT HOME.
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
(how they could not be sold out every
day is cause for wonder). This chocolate
Aaina Charlottenburg A-2, Stülpnagelstr. 2, U Kai- purveyor occupies the former Chinese
serdamm, tel. 30 20 41 27, www.aaina.de. Bringing the embassy. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
far east to western Berlin, Aaina serves a surprising mix of 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. B
Indian, Singaporean, Malaysian and Thai dishes in vibrant
Asian setting. Try the tandoor oven bread or chicken, the Tim’s Canadian Deli D-4,
Singaporean special noodles or the fish with hot Thai curry. Maaßenstr. 14, SB, MNollendor-
Near the Messe trade fair centre.QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. fpl., tel. 21 75 69 60. It looks good,
ORIGINAL the food and service are great and the
Suksan D-4, Ansbacher Str. 4, SB, MWittenbergplatz, streetcorner setting is enviable, but
tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de. A short stroll from west THAI we can’t figure out from the German-
Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai restaurant FOOD language menu what exactly is Ca-
decorated with ample bamboo poles and palmleaf roofs. nadian about Tim’s, apart from the
Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes Ansbacher Strasse 4 Telefon 030.21 01 86 73 maple syrup pancakes (€5.10) and
accompanied by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed Ecke Kurfürstenstrasse Telefax 030.21 01 86 88 fresh bagels served all day. QOpen
by a cocktail. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz www.suksan.de 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00,
Sun 17:00 - 23:00. Suksan Sun 09:00 - 01:00. AB
!UTHENTIC "ERLIN Italian
CUISINE AT ITkS BEST Francucci’s B-4, Kurfurstendamm 90, CB, MAdenauer
Platz, tel. 323 33 18, www.francucci.com. Fabulous food
served in a popular Charlottenburg restaurant - once nomi-
nated as one of the best Italian restaurants outside Italy by
Knesebeckstraße 63 / Kurfürstendamm their president. Elegant flagstone floors and subdued lighting
set the scene, while the kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food,
tel. 884 13-0 with home-made pasta and bread and plenty of regional
www.restaurant-knese.de ingredients found back in dishes like the veal scallop with
herbs, potatoes and black truffles. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Duke Sun 14:00 - 23:00. Yakitori Rokko
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9< B ; 4 2 Mar y Sol C-4, Savignypl. 5, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 313
25 93, www.marysol-berlin.de. Perhaps the most Mediter-
ranean spot in Berlin, sitting on Mar y Sol’s terracotta-and-
glazed-tiles terrace makes you think you never left Marbella.
Though the seaview is missing, the point-and-choose tapas
bar inside the hacienda-style interior should get you into the
mood. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (€5-19). AB
Bars
Alt Berliner Biersalon C-4, Kurfüstendamm 225, CB,
MKurfürstendamm, tel. 88 43 99 28, www.alt-berliner-
biersalon.de. A favourite for many foreigners - a huge bar
with cosy corners as well as areas where wild sports fans
can watch a large screen. The bar serves well-priced German
AndaLucia and international food as well as big breakfasts. Groups
are welcome - actually you can fit 499 of your buddies plus
Mola D-4, Wittenbergpl. 3, CB, MWittenbergpl., tel. 21 yourself in here.QOpen 24hrs. B
47 50 60, www.restaurant-mola.de. After charging your
way down Ku’damm and Tauentzienstraße, collapse here with Bar am Lützowplatz D-4, Lützowpl. 7, TG, MNol-
your shopping bags. Mola’s pizzas, which overflow the already lendorfpl., tel. 262 68 07, www.baramluetzowplatz.
huge plates, are delicious. There’s no English menu, but the com. From his portrait at the back of the narrow, stylish bar,
lengthy list is decipherable if you’ve eaten Italian before. On Chairman Mao is forced to take in the scene of successful
Sunday, picking at the long brunch buffet table will run you capitalists poring over each other. Professionals line what’s
€8. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€10-27). B reputed to be Berlin’s longest bar counter, or settle into the
low leather coaches in the back - the most comfy spot to read
Ristorante Ciao B-4, Kurfürstendamm 156, CB, MAde- the cocktail menu, which listing 150 kinds of champagne and
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made bread. Warm lighting and dark wood make you feel at str., tel. 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.de, www.plaza-
home, as does the attentive yet discreet service. With a wine hotel.de. The Berlin Plaza hotel bar serves a variety of
cellar running to 300 bottles and a heated terrace, Ciao is set German and Czech beers to hotel guests and passers-by.
to say hello to Berlin’s Italian lovers. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Relax at the bar and try a Redeberger, Berliner, Paulaner,
Marooush Closed Mon. UBX Krusovice or a glass of Berlin’s white beer, often best with Joseph Roth Diele E-4, Potsdamer Str.75, MGleis-
a shot of sweet syrup. dreieck, tel. 26 36 98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de.
Zwölf Apostel C-4, Bleibtreustr. 49, CB, MUh- A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar just west of Postdamer
landstr., tel. (+49)(0)30 312 14 33/20 16 69 82, Har d Rock Café C-4, Meinekestr. 21, CB, Platz. Owned by the same people who run the odd Ave Maria
w w w.12-apostel.de. A worn, classic interior wi th a MKurfürstendamm, tel. 88 46 20, www.hardrock.com. religious shop next door, it’s named after a prolific Jewish
vague Tuscany/angel-theme and an open kitchen hide in Immediately next to the entrance is the place of pilgrimage for writer, whose quotes and books decorate the walls and who
the alley next to the S-Bahn tracks. The best thing about so many travellers - the Hard Rock Café T-shirt and souvenir lived nearby in the 1920s when this street was the beating
this place, after the great Italian food, is the fact that shop. Once past that, you’re in the familiar surroundings of the heart of Berlin. Delicious dinners are served (snacks only on
they never close. The regular kitchen closes at 05:00, generously decorated restaurant/bar area where you’ll find Fridays), and it’s a fabulous place for a beer or wine after a
switching straight to breakfast-mode, so that your Last both foreigners and locals looking for a good time, with Bud, show at the Wintergarten Varieté, just opposite. QOpen
Supper can simply go on forever. The business lunch is Miller and Corona beer. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAEG 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
good value, but if you’re more than peckish choose a
Marooush C-4, Knesebeckstraße 46, MUhland- discounted pizza. Q Open 24hrs. Also on Georgenstr. 2, Harry’s New York Bar D-4, Lützowufer. 15, MNol- Kumpelnest 3000 E-4, Lützowstr. 23, TG, MKurfürsten-
straße, tel. 887 11 83 35, www.marooush.de. MI. (€8-18). PGB lendorfplatz, tel. 254780, www.esplanade.de. The str., tel. 261 69 18, www.kumpelnest3000.com. Strag-
Refined Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern twist undisputed king of central berlin bars and lounges. The minute glers of all sexual orientations head here for a nightcap or one
and gourmet food. The combined restaurant, shisha you walk through the doors, you’ll see why Harry’s New-York last drunken spin on the tiny metal dance floor. The velvet
lounge and cocktail bar has luxurious and tasteful décor
Spanish Bar resides atop of every Berlin bar guide. Step back to a paintings and carpeted walls are fascinating after a couple of
enhancing the equally exotic menu. Puff on a shisha as AndaLucia C-4, Savignyplatz 2, MSavignyplatz, tel. time when the key elements for unforgettable nights were drinks, and so are the scruffy patrons apparently: it’s known
you await your meal or come on Friday or Saturday for (+49)(0)30 54 71 02 71, www.andalucia-berlin.de. great drinks, great music, and great friends. Meet and greet as a hook-up bar. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
‘dinner and dance’, with belly-dancers and live music. Located at the chic Savignyplatz, AndaLucia offers a range new acquaintances from around the world. Enjoy music filling
The Marooush-Club can be booked for special occasions. of Spanish wines and, of course, mouth-watering tapas. The the room from a jazzman tickling the ivories. Known for its Mommsen-Eck B-4, Mommsenstraße 45, CB, MAde-
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00. restaurant’s cosy and stylish interior and spacious terrace international drink menu consisting of nearly 200 choices, nauerplatz, tel. 324 25 80, www.mommsen-eck.de. With
provide an inviting setting for well-priced Spanish fare, from Harry’s is one of the most popular bars in Berlin. Q Open traditional charm a street north of the Ku’damm, Mommsen-
Albóndiga meatballs to the monumental mixed grill.QOpen Mon-Sat from 19:00, Sun closed. Eck is a comfortable and atmospheric pub and bistro boasting
17:00 - 01:00. over a hundred types of best-quality beer, lovingly preserved
Hefner C-4, Kantstr. 146, CB, MUhlandstr., tel. 31 01 and served either inside or on the spacious terrasse. Full
El Dorado C-4, Kurfürstendamm 203, CB, MUhlandstr., 75 20, www.hefner-berlin.de. The most happening spot menu, including Sunday brunch.
tel. 88 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Dark on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with
woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting for this Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the Trompete D-4, Lützowpl. 9, MNollendorfpl, tel. 23 00
Spanish restaurant. The various cuts weigh in between 180 favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of 47 94, www.trompete-berlin.de. Part-owned by actor
and 500 grams. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish Martini cocktails in Berlin. To prevent the affluent 30-some- Ben Becker, Trompete is an upmarket club often presenting
and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just thing crowd from getting bored, DJs perform on weekend new live music acts. On every first Saturday of the month
want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass nights. And if that’s not enough, there’s a brothel just around there’s the Kasino Royale film music party. Q Open Thu
by. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (€18-20). AB the corner. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. AB 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Admission €5-7. EB
Kreuzberg Pagode
Two Kiezes in Kreuzberg stand out with a high concentration
A much-loved self-service restaurant with inexpensive,
of restaurants, cafés, bars and clubs. Oranienstraße
mouthwateringly delicious and award-winning Thai
(G/H-3) is for the alternative set of all ages, nationalities,
cuisine.
■ Berlin‘s first english pub since 1976 and sexual orientation. Those who hang out around the
Bergmannstraße/Mehringdamm area (F-4) are perhaps a
■ British and Irish beer on tap bit more pulled together and grey on the edges, but live music
◄ Drink from the YARD OF ALE (1 litre) and gay venues keep things adventurous.
mouth-blown exclusively for Union Jack
■ Live Music during winter months Asian
Aaina Tempelhof Tempelhofer Damm 216, U Ullsteinstr.,
Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00 tel. 72 01 25 89, www.aaina.de. Colourful lighting, outsized
umbrella parasols and buddha statues form the décor for the
second outlet of this Asian restaurant. The cooks conjure up
I r i s h P u b D - 4 , Ta u e n t z i e n s t r . 9 - 1 2 , C B , food from across the region, and there’s ample choice of Indian,
MKurfürstendamm, tel. 262 16 34, www.irishpubberlin. Singaporean, Malaysian and Thai dishes. In summer enjoy sit-
de. Live music on the stage every night, Guinness on tap, ting amidst palm trees on the terrace.QOpen 11:30 - 24:00.
sports on TV and beers in the 36m long bar are the key
attractions that regularly get this place packed with punters. Chantrey H-5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42/43, KB, tel. (+49)
The Irish Pub provides all of these with flair. Come (or avoid) on (0)30 177 412 46 02, info@loftberlin.com, www.chantrey.
Mondays for karaoke night.QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri 12:00 de. A sleek new eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, clean-
- 04:00, Sat 11:30 - 04:00, Sun 11:30 - 03:00. cut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical Asian
street food. There’s everything from Thai spring rolls, Indonesian
Union Jack Schlüterstr. 15, CB, MSavignyplatz, sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a Vietnamese banana
tel. (+49)(0)30 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin. dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Pagode F-5, Bergmannstr. 88, KB, MMehringdamm,
de. A corner of Scottish highland in the hear t of Berlin, tel. (+49)(0)30 691 26 40. Simply one of the best Thai
this whisk y pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and Kimchi Princess H-4, Skalitzer Str. 36, KB, MGörlitzer Bahnhof, restaurants in town, and awarded by the Thai embassy in
Union Jack continues to draw the punters in with an amazing col- tel. (+49)(0)163 458 02 03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Though Berlin as one of the best in Germany. It feels crowded, steamy
lection of 401 types of whisk y (from the best Scottish this is not Berlin’s first Korean restaurant, Kimchi Princess is being hailed and noisy, but that’s just part of the authentic self-service
Clubs and Irish brands to Canadian and Japanese bourbon) as by the capital’s gourmets as the first one to serve authentic dishes - that atmosphere; wait till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food.
Luxor Club C-4, Knesebeckstraße 46, MUhlandstraße, well as various English and Irish beers, including John is, not drowned in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed All the Thai classics are present, as are some other Asian
tel. 887 11 83 35, www.cluboriental.de. If you want to go Smith’s and Newcastle Brown Ale, best consumed in excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to find a free table dishes. If you like it hot, just ask and they’ll make it hot.
clubbing after dinner at the downstairs restaurant, head to the special Yard-of-Ale glass. Solid food is available too in the evening. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€2-9). B
the Luxor club, where you can dance to oriental dance floor - home made snacks and and Walkers crisps. Q Open
classics in rooms with cool colours and fantastic lighting. Ad- from 19:00. Closed Sun.
mission is free for ladies before 23:00. On Thursdays you can
get on a boat-ride party, starting off at the bar for a cocktail,
taking a shuttle to the riverside and partying on a boat before berlinasia.de
presents
heading back to finish the night at Luxor (book in advance).
Dress code: elegant. Q Open Thu-Sat 20:00-06:00. E
Pubs
Irish Harp B-4, Giesebrechtstr. 15, CB, MAdenauer-
platz, tel. 22 32 87 35, info@harp-pub.de, www.harp-
pub.de. A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and sandwiches. On
tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny and a range of German beers. PAGODE - thai kitchen SUMO - japanese fusion food
You can expect major sports events to be beamed on screens,
and there’s regular karaoke, quiz nights and live music too.
Bergmannstr. 88 Bergmannstr. 89
QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. B Irish Harp +49-30-6912640 +49-30-69004963
Gneis
enau
str.
u
U-Bhf Gneisenau Str.
r Str.
tr.
Zossene
Solmss
Bergm
annstrSUMO PAGODE
asse
Since 1866
German specialities
International crossover cuisine
Open daily from 9:00
Kuchen Kaiser
Crossover
Pagode Kuchen Kaiser G/H-4, Oranienpl. 11-13, KB, MMori-
tzpl., tel. (+49)(0)30 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.
Biological de. Located on Oranienplatz, just a few meters from the
No Kangaroo
Foodorama F-5, Bergmannstr. 94, KB, MGneisennaus- Oranienstrasse in the heart of Kreuzberg, this has been
tr., tel. (+49)(0)30 69 00 11 00, contact@foodorama. a melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since
de, www.foodorama.de. Kreuzberg is the proud home of 1866. Famous for its cakes and tarts, exclusively sent by the
Austrian Germany’s only certified climate neutral restaurant, on a Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s, the “Kaiser of cakes”
Austria F-5, Bergmannstr. 30, KB, MGneisenaustr., streetcorner with a beautifully sleek, minimalist interior that is has transformed into a restaurant with a wide variety of
tel. (+49)(0)30 694 44 40. Have your Wiener Schnitzel good for both intimate dinners interacting with others at shared German specialities and international food. There’s a great
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner restaurant tables. It’s so eco-concious that Foodorama’s employees all choice of breakfasts, a low-cost lunch from 12.00 to 15.00
is known for its huge portions, so indulge in the full experience use bikes or public transport to get to work. The cooks use (under €7), and a huge brunch on Sundays. You can watch Oranienplatz 11-13
or go for the half portion. The setting is appropriate - heavy exclusively organically grown seasonal products, many of the Champions League live, play pool, and sit down for the Tel: 61 40 26 97
wooden furnishings and antlers on the wall. All the other them regional, and served at afforable prices - breakfast can special dinner service with fresh, home-made specialities. restaurant@kuchenkaiser.de
dishes, including Salzburger Fritattatorte, are excellent as be had from €5.50 and dinner mains start at €8.50. Try one The Kuchenkaiser team won the ‘smartest bar in Berlin and
well. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (€8-17). A of the bread baskets for a healthy lunch, or the delicious beef Brandenburg’ live radio show, and will be opening an new www.kuchenkaiser.de
yakitori. Remember to ask for a Good Mojo Tree seed before big tent in the garden soon to present even more events,
No Kangaroo H-4, Muskauer Straße 13, MGörlitzer you leave, to offset any climate-changing you may unintentonally concerts and live cultural acts. A must-see in Berlin. QOpen
Bahnhof, tel. (+49)(0)30 65 79 96 30, info@nokangaroo. do on the way home. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. No Amex. A 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. B
com, www.nokangaroo.com. Austrian, not Australian - the
ski hut decor and gondola bar seats at No Kangaroos are
the setting for alpine treats from the Salzburg region, buffet Cafés German
lunches and brunches, Stiegl beer as well as parties on Café am Engelbecken H-4, Heinrich Heine Pl, KB, Altes Zollhaus G-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, MPrinzenstr.,
weekend nights. Check the events online. QOpen 12:00 - MHeinrich-Heine-Str., tel. (+49)(0)30 28 37 68 16, www. tel. (+49)(0)30 692 33 00, info@altes-zollhaus.com,
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Opposite the impressive, partially- www.altes-zollhaus-berlin.de. A bit of countryside in the
restored redbrick St. Michael’s church is a little pond, sunk into a city - the beautiful old customs house along an idyllic stretch
Riehmer’s F-5, Hagelbergerstr. 9 KB, MMehringdamm, depressed parkway that was once a canal. Hidden away at the of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic atmosphere in which
tel. (+49)(0)30 78 89 19 80. Riehmer’s brings together reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace café. Umbrellas shade to try regional specialities featuring things such as goat’s
the cuisines of the far-reaching Austro-Hungarian empire. white picnic tables and the hip living room-like indoor portion is cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes. QOpen
Standards on the changing menu are Wienerschnitzel, beef made up of two construction containers. View of the water or 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
consomme (Tafelspitz Suppe) and beef goulash. The cream- the rustling tall green reeds make this a peaceful respite from all
coloured rooms are bare of ornamentation save for a portrait things city while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can Henne H-4, Leuschnerdamm 25, KB, MMoritzpl., tel.
of Kaiser Franz Joseph and linen napkins folded into crowns. you believe this very area was once filled with rubble, and part (+49)(0)30 614 77 30, www.henne-berlin.de. Who knew
The coveted simpler seating is on the cedar chips of the of the Wall’s deathstrip?). Thai noodle dishes spring rolls, and that the Germans fried chicken? Other than a few Wursts,
garden that faces an historic apartment complex for Prussian curry and lentil soups are delicious and at a great price. Cocktails chicken is all that’s served in this appropriately named old,
officers. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. (€7-16). B are served until about 02:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€4-7). B cosy, corner tavern, along with sides of coleslaw and disap-
pointing mayonnaise-filled potato salad. The crisp, salty
skin gives you another reason for quaffing yet another beer.
For €6, you get a lot of wood-panelled atmosphere. QOpen
. Closed Mon. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun from 17:00;
Closed Mon (€2-6). B
RESERVATION
Tel. 030 75549407-1
Mail. reservation@sage-restaurant.de
www.sagerestaurant.de
SAGE RESTAURANT
Köpenicker Str. 18-20 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg
Weltrestaurant Markthalle H-4, Pücklerstr. 34, KB,
MGörlitzer Bahnhof, tel. (+49)(0)30 617 55 02, www.
weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Within a historic market hall build-
ing, the Markthalle restaurant only 15 years old, yet already has such
a rustic atmosphere. The room is long and tall, with wainscoting,
simple wooden furniture and a bar that locals belly up to. It’s a
restaurant that doesn’t let its looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride
in its nouvelle takes on German and Austrian standards. The menu
changes weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to American-
style, and as late as 17:00. After dinner, check if anything is going SAGE Group
down in the Privatclub, the club in the cellar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. EVENT & NIGHLIFE ENTERTAINMENT FROM BERLIN
(€8-16, weekday lunch menu €7.50). AB
SAGE Club www.sage-club.de
Brandenburger Tor F-3, Pariser Pl, MI, MUnter den Neue Synagoge F-3, Oranienburger Str. 28-30, MI,
Essential Berlin Linden. Berlin’s landmark building is one of 14 gates com- IMAX3D Sony Center MOranienburger Tor, tel. 88 02 84 51, www.cjudai-
pleted in 1792 by Carl Langhans. Nike, the goddess of victory, cum.de. Though not worth the extra admission charge or
Berlin is a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real Old drives the chariot atop the gate, and German armies used to Get right into the action with the the wait to stand inside it, the gilded cupola of the New
Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan begin their parades here. The proud gate opens onto Pariser IMAX experience. Wherever they Synagogue is one of the most eye-catching sights in Mitte.
your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public Platz, and it may as well have been built by the communists, take you, the combination of Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration of the Alhambra-
transporation. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, so linked in people’s minds is it to the double-wall system that the towering IMAX screen and inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence
we recommend you join one of the walking tours to get essentially bricked it in. Fascists spoiled the gate as well by superb cinematography is awe- of its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on November 9,
your bearings and see the main sights. staging their torch-lit parades through it. Berliners celebrated inspiring. The lounge chairs on 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and
Classic sights include the Brandenburger Tor and the the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it in front of the gate. the balcony with a view of the spectacular Sony Center photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of
nearby Reichstag with its glass dome, the Berliner are also a perfect spot to take a little break from sight- the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what
Dom (the main cathedral), the museum-churches and Gedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial seeing, enjoy a cup of coffee, and to relax your feet while was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but effective
concert house on Gendarmenmarkt and the Neue Church) D-4, Breitscheidpl, CB, MKurfürstendamm, waiting for the show to begin. sound installation adds to the experience. QOpen 10:00 -
Synagoge. Fans of modern architecture shouldn’t miss tel. 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. The 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission €4.60/3.
the Potsdamer Platz area and the Jewish Museum. major attraction in what was West Berlin is this stark reminder The 3D Dinosaurs Live computer animation film shows
Finally, you can’t leave Berlin without a peek at one of of World War II’s destruction. Kept as an open wound, the these colossal and extremely succesful prehistoric Nikolaiviertel G-3, Between Rathausstr. and Müh-
the remnants of the Wall and the ruin of the Kaiser severe acknowledgement of German culpability is declared on animals in all their frightening glory, looking at dinosaurs lendamm, MI, MAlexanderpl., www.stadtmuseum.de.
Wilhelm Memorial Church. a plaque near the entrance of the old bell tower: ‘The tower of from Mongolia’s Gobi desert to New Mexico’s mountains. Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only
the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgment, The 3D film ‘African Adventure’ takes you on a safari to truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche (the
which befell our people during the war years.’ Berliners hold Botswana’s fabulous Okavango Delta area, with shots of twin-spired, stone church; open 10:00-18:00, €5/3). The
little sacred and call the destroyed tower the hollow tooth. animals in their natural habitat – from lions and wildebeest church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire
Main sights The erection of the once enormous church dedicated to the to elephants and crocodiles. quarter in the mid-80s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in the
Berliner Dom G-3, Am Lustgar ten, MI, MHacke- German emperor had been a feat of national pride: even syna- area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began. No one
scher Markt, tel. 20 26 91 36, w w w.berlinerdom. gogues contributed to its funding, and it was first opened in IMAX F-3, Sony Center, Potsdamer Str. 4, tel. 26 06 was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings
de. This Protestant church dating from 1905 might not 1895. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. 64 00, www.cinestar-imax.de. Tickets €8.50/6.70, have the simple, concrete facades that the Communist govern-
look as massi ve were the Stad tschloss still standing The modern chapel and tower next door were completed in Tue €6.70. ment could afford. The small shops in the area mostly deal in
across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime demolished 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at
the city castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern dynasty blue stained glass windows. Q Old tower open 10:00 - 16:00, the restaurants that face the Spree River. On Rathausstraße,
worshipped h ere wi thin th e four incarnations of th e closed Sun. Memorial church open 09:00 - 19:00. there’s a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin
church. Their places of rest in the cr ypt are indeed a cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings in
yawn. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgi ving, wi th the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and
broad staircases, landings, and side exhibi t rooms. Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits related to Berlin.
Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Admis- www.inyourpocket.com
sion €5/3. Potsdamer Platz E/F-4,, MPotsdamer Pl.. Once the
modern heart of a thriving metropolis, this urban centre was
heavily damaged in the war, and suffered again when remaining
buildings were pulled down to make way for the Wall’s death
Ticket options booklet from any other point of sale. Ticket options: Berlin
CityTourCard 48 AB/ABC €15,90/17,90, Berlin CityTourCard strip. After years of construction in the mid-90s, skyscrapers
Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning 72 AB/ABC €21,90/23,90, Berlin CityTourCard 5 days AB/ Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Charlottenstr, MI, MFranzö- have added a cosmopolitan and glassy edge to the city. The
ABC €28,90/33,90. sische Str.. Twin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to literal Potsdamer Platz is an intersection, and the east side of it,
on seeing more than one museum, pick up one of these
the early 1700s) and the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl known as Leipziger Platz, is slowly building up in height as well.
reduced rate cards.
Berlin WelcomeCard www.berlin-welcomecard.de. Langhans) make up this classic square in Berlin. It’s so Potsdamer Platz’s most popular public space and architectural
The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and re- classic Berlin that with the adding of a lion statue here, a attraction is The Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-
Berlin CityTourCard fountain there, the film production team of Jackie Chan’s like roof. It’s best to view at night for its impressive lighting. The
w w w.city tourcard.com. Th e duction card valid for zone AB or zone ABC (includes Potsdam
and both airports) for 48 hours (€16,90/18,90), 72 hours Around the World in Eighty Days turned it into 19th-century neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds architecture by
Berlin CityTourCard is a tourist
(€22.90/25.90) or 5 days (€29,90/34,90). The card offers London in 2003. Luxury hotels use their position bordering Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the Arkaden shopping mall,
attraction discount card and a
reduced admission to several museums, bike tours and rental, it as their drawing card. The square’s name stems from with rather humdrum shops, but the best gelato café in the city.
transport ticket valid for central
boat tours, etc. The card is sold at tourist offices, S-Bahn the mid-1700s when military regiments were stationed
Berlin (zone AB) or Berlin including
Potsdam (zone ABC). The card is offices, hotels and kiosks. Students/youths may get better here. The Deutscher Dom (tel. 22 73 04 31) is home to Reichstag/Bundestag F-3, Platz der Republik 1, TG,
reductions at museums using their student cards. a museum on the development of the German Parliamen- MUnter den Linden, tel. 22 73 21 52, www.bundestag.
available at any BVG and S-Bahn
tary system, not dull at all if you’re a politics buff. You’ll de/htdocs_e/visitors. The name together wi th i ts
ticket machine or counter. For
Get2riCard, tel. 438 09 80, www.get2card.de. A card have to read German or French to enjoy the Französischer monumental size make most people associate Germany’s
free admission at the Pergam-
that allows you to get two for the price of one, whether it’s the Dom’s (tel. 229 17 60) exhibit on the contributions of neoclassical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but
onmuseum, the Altes Museum,
admission to a club, museum, cinema or to a show, nights at French Huguenots to Berlin’s development, beginning in Hitler and his party have little history here. After hosting
Bodemuseum or the Alte Nationalgalerie, get the special
a hostel or hotel, or food and drinks at a wide range of bars the late 1600s. Q Deutscher Dom open 10:00-18:00, parliamentary sessions since 1894, one month after Hitler
CityTourCard Museumsinsel. Cards come with a discount
and restaurants. Check out the possibilities online. The tour- closed Monday. was appointed chancellor in January 1933, it was set on fire
and map booklet; if you use a ticket machine, collect your
ist version of the card is valid for seven days and costs €20. by Dutch communist Marinus van der Lubbe. In the years
during which it abutted the Wall as a conference centre, West
State Museum Card www.museen-berlin.de. The Tourist information Berliners played football on its lawn, while later artist Christo
Staatliche Museen zu Berlin (state museums) have several famously wrapped it in cloth. It did not serve as parliament
ticket options for their permanent collections. A single ticket Berlin Infostore E-2, Hauptbahnhof station, tel. 25 again until a reunited German government returned to Berlin
ranges €4-8. You can buy a €19/9.50 Schaulust three-day 00 25, www.berlin-tourist-information.de. The help- in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is
ticket valid for all state museums (but remember all are ful staff at the official Berlin tourist offices can provide a perhaps the most public federal building in the world through
closed on Mondays). There are groups of state museums wide range of information and publications. Most offices its glass-dome tourist attraction. On the rooftop, photographs
in several neighbourhoods, and a Bereich-karte (area card, will stay open longer than normal this summer. QOpen documenting the building’s history circle the rim above the
€6-12) grants admission to those near each another; a 08:00 - 22:00. Also at F-2, Reichstag kiosk; F-2, Bran- parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
ticket for all the museums on the Museum Island costs denburger Tor (south wing, open 10:00 - 18:00); D-3, an engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic
€14/7. Admission is free for under-16s and for all visitors Budapester Str. (Europa Centre); C-3, Kurfürstendamm view from the top. Avoid long queues by arriving early or late,
during the last four opening hours on Thursdays. 21 (passage). or by booking at the Dachgarten restaurant. QOpen 08:00 -
24:00. Last admission at 22:00. Admission free.
+? 1 ? =>
VKXQOXKMR^NO\W_]OOXNO The Berlin-based video and film artist, Julian Rosefeldt various bodies of work and provides an insight into her
(*1965), who has now established an international impressively diverse oeuvre.
Jewish Museum F-4, Lindenstr. 9-14, KB, Martin-Gropius-Bau F-4, Niederkirchnerstr. 7, KB,
MHallesches Tor, tel. 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin. MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
de. The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this
Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’
ways in which German life and Jewish history are intricately Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an arts
interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for contempla- and crafts museum and nothing on the touristy block can
tion, but the exhibits cover much more than the Holocaust hold a candle to it. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts
CH
chapter of Jewish history in Germany. All texts are also
in English. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00.
excellent touring shows. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.
Admission €7.50/6.
HÖ LITZ
E N
Admission €5/2.50, changing exhibitions €4/2; combined BASKMAN
ticket €7/3.50. Museum für Asiatische Kunst (Asian art museum) D
Lansstraße 8, Berlin- Dahlem, MDahlem-Dorf, tel. 830 B EC ESK I N
Kennedy Museum F-3, Pariser Plat z 4a, MI, 14 38, www.smb.museum. Alongside special exhibitions LI B DOV A
MUnter den Linden, tel. 20 65 35 70, www.theken-
nedys.de. On 26 June 1963, US President John F. Kennedy
dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to archi-
tecture, this museum has an impressive permanent collection VE ON E
visited Berlin. He peered over the Wall at Brandenburger of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. ST
Tor, and, impressed after looking totalitarianism in the Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room
eyes, scribbled some last-minute amendments to his dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting
famous speech. This note with the phonetically spelled
words Ish bin ein Bearliener is now on display, together
with the suitcase he held when he was shot in Texas a
and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese
woodcuts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.
BERLIN’S
few months later, and hundreds of photos documenting
the Kennedy family’s histor y. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission €7/3,50.
Naturkundemuseum (Natural history museum)
F-2, Invalidenstr. 43, tel. 20 93 85 91, w w w.
MUSEUM OF
Märkisches Museum (City Museum) G-3,
Am Köllnischen Park 5, MMärkisches Museum,
naturkundemuseum-b erlin.de. All th e wonders of
nature under one roof; a grand collection illustrating the
evolution of life as well as the diversity and beauty of
MODERN ART
Neue Nationalgalerie E-4, Potsdamer Str. 50, TG, are works by Matisse and Klee. After the audio guide’s
MPotsdamer Pl., tel. 266 26 51, www.museen-berlin. voice gives the interpretation of a work, you sometimes Panoramapunkt
de. You’d think that the art world had gone to minimalist hear the brittle with age, German accent of collector
extremes when passing Mies van der Rohe’s empty glass Heinz Berggruen himself, sharing an anecdote regarding It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to get
box of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all un- the artists he knew personally. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 25th floor of this
derground. It was here that the wildly successful “MoMA Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4. red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoff’s magnificent
in Berlin” exhibit was on view 24 hours during its last three 1930s-inspired building refers to New York’s skyscraping
days. Now that the guest exhibit is gone, the permanent Schloss Charlottenburg A-3, Spandauer Damm glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete
collection greats: Otto Dix, Georg Grotz, Paul Klee, Was- 20-24, CB, MRichard-Wagner-Platz, Sophie-Char- with a golden crown. On the top floors there’s a short film
sily Kandinsky, Picasso and Leger, among others, can lotte-Pl., tel. 32 09 14 40, www.museen-berlin.de. and an exhibition about the amazing history of Potsdamer
make themselves at home again. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, The largest royal residence in Berlin is Schloss Charlot- Platz square, which went from a world-class entertainment
Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. tenburg, named for Prussia’s first queen. Though it began area to a Wall-divided wasteland and back again within
Admission €6/3. as a modest summer palace in 1695, today’s version, a generation. The café and rooftop terrace offer great
distinguished by its 505-meter length and central tower, close-up views of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor,
Photography museum (Helmut New ton Stif- took its final form in 1790. You can tour the luxurious and the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall
tung) C-4, Jebensstr. 2, CB, MZoologischer Garten, largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an eye- zone and Tiergarten park. On lazy summer days, closing
tel. 20 90 55 55. The late fashion photographer Helmut glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. time is postponed for sunset.
Newton fled Berlin with his Jewish family in the 1930s but Also here is the largest collection of 18th century French
his love for his hometown remained. Berlin has the honour painting outside France plus a beautiful Baroque garden
of giving him his final resting place this year, as well as landscape, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
opening this new museum, made up of 1,000 photographs porcelain exhibition. Arriving via bus N°109 or 210 will
he donated to the city before his death. Only 250 works save you a 15-minute walk from any of the nearest S- and
will be on view at a time. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed U-Bahn stations. Q Open Old Palace 09:00 - 17:00. New
Mon. Admission €6. Wing 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission Old Palace
€10, New Wing €6.
Sammlung Berg gruen B-3, Schloßstr. 1, CB,
$5&+(1+2/'67(51:$57( M Sophie-Charlotte-Pl., tel. 326 95 80, w w w. Technical Museum (Deutsches Technikmuseum)
museen-berlin.de. Picasso fans should not miss this F-4, Trebbiner Str. 9, MGleisdreieck, tel. (+49)(0)30
collection. The artist’s blue and red periods are well rep- 90 25 40, www.stdb.de. Unmistakably recognisable from
'(876&+(67(&+1,.086(80 resented, as are portraits of his lovers. Providing variety the U-Bahn by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above
the new aeronautics building, this is a huge complex set in
and around an old freight station rail depot, with technical
6&,(1&(&(17(563(&7580 Deutsches Technikmuseum exhibitions, the Spectrum science centre with 250 hands-on © Landesarchiv Berlin
experiments, and a park with a Dutch windmill and a brewery.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Potsdamer Platz 1, TG, tel. (+49)(0)30 25 29 43
Visit the Deutsches Technikmuseum (German Technol-
=(,66*52663/$1(7$5,80 ogy Museum) for an eventful and enjoyable journey of Admission €4.50/2.50. 72, info@panoramapunkt.de, www.panoramapunkt.
de.QOpen 10:00-20:00. Admission €5,50/4, audioguide
discovery through the cultural history of technology. €2,50.
The museum presents a broad spectrum of old and Temporäre Kunsthalle Berlin G-2, Schlossfreiheit
=8&.(5086(80 new technology and demonstrates the various historical 1, MI, MAlexanderplatz, tel. (+49)(0)30 25 76 20
connections to culture and everyday life. The collection 40, www.kunsthalle-berlin.com. The temporary blue-
includes aviation and space flight objects, a huge variety and-white hall on Berlin’s historical Schlossplatz square reptiles and amphibians of all shapes, colours and sizes can
of trains, film technology, and the world’s first computers is Berlin’s foremost location for international exhibitions be viewed at close quarters in landscape basins and tanks.
built by Konrad Zuse. The large museum park – contain- of contemporary art for the next two years. Apart from Highlights for most children are the blacktip reef sharks and
offering exhibition space, the cube can be used as a pro- the crocodiles, though the jellyfish, corals and the rare lizard-
:::6'7%'( ing two windmills, a water mill and a brewery – is an oasis
of green. Spectrum, the neighbouring science centre,
has more than 250 experiments for discovering physical
jection screen - both inside and out. Inside, there’s also
the Fiedrichs restaurant and the König bookshop, selling
like tuatara also deserve attention. The kids will love you
forever if their visit if it coincides with the daily feeding times;
phenomena through play. art-related publications. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 polar bears at 10:30, penguins at 13:45, wolves and bears
)25',6&29(5(56 - 21:00. Admission free. at 14:00, monkeys and pelicans at 15:30. At the aquarium,
the sharks, rays and other large fish get fed every second
The Picasso Story F-3, Behrenstrasse 42, MI, tel. Mon at 15:00, and the crocodiles have dinner on Mon and
(+49)(30)544 45 55, www.exponuevo.de. A fresh, en- Thu at 13:30. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30. Admission €12/9 for
tertaining exhibition about Pablo Picasso and the period he zoo or aquarium, combined €18/14.
lived in, focussing on the 1950s and 60s. In several theme
rooms, Picasso’s life story and the times he lived in are told
using graphics, drawings, 40 original pottery pieces, photos,
video clips and interactive screens. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission €9,50/6.
:]jdaf^jgeZ]dgo
guided bike-tours are offered between 1 April and 1 Novem-
ber. Choose between the Berlin Wall Tour (Tue, Thu, Sat at
11:00) which covers seven miles of the former death strip Potsdamer Platz 1
and includes a visit to one of the last border watchtowers;
and Berlin´s Best (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun at 11:00) which
;gd\OYjYf\OO AAZmfc]jlgmjkaf=f_dak`KhYfak` cycles past the main sights. Tours start in court 4 of the daily 10 am - 8 pm
Kulturbrauerei, or join at the Berliner Bank on the corner of
<a^^]j]fllgmjk]n]jq\Yq$]p[]hlLm]&'O]\&k]]2ooo&Z]jdaf]j%mfl]jo]dl]f&\] Eberswalder Straße and Schönhauser Allee. Q €18 including www.panoramapunkt.de
5 Y:]jdaf%O]\\af_
KmZoYq2?]kmf\Zjmff]f M0!$kgml`]jf]fljYf[]%`Ydd:jmff]fkljY])(0 rental bike, or €13 with your own. Bike rental without tour
€10 per 24 hours.
Deutsch-Russisches Museum Zwieseler Str. 4 (cor- Part of Berlin’s charm is its proud grittiness, but don’t chide
ner of Rheinstr.), MKarlshorst, tel. 50 15 08 41, www. yourself for being bourgeois if it gets to you - it got on the
museum-karlshorst.de. In the southeast, the building where nerves of Friedrich der Große (Frederick II the Great), too.
Germany signed its surrender in May 1945 now serves as the The ruler of Berlin (and all of Prussia) from 1740 to 1786
Deutsch-Russisches Museum Berlin-Karlshorst. More rooms built his favorite abode Sanssouci, outside Berlin in the
focus on World War II, but exhibits include Soviet relations to both town of Potsdam.
East and West Germany and ‘the presence of the war following
the war’. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Without a worry was the French name of his palace, though
thanks to considerable care taken by its architect Georg
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (The Wall Museum) Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff, craftsmen, and artisans,
F-4, Friedrichstr. 43-45, KB, MKochstr., tel. 253 72 50, it is hailed as the Versailles of Germany. Sanssouci was
www.mauer-museum.com. A homespun Great Escape intended as a summer residence, and though Friedrich
museum of false trunks, tools, videos and stills of tunnel- stretched out the seasons he spent here, tourists don’t
digging - and a submarine - attest to necessity and desire have the same privilege: many buildings close between
being the mother of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic mid-October and April. The best attractions are open
stories of separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and through winter - Park Sanssouci’s Schloss Sanssouci and
fed-up senior citizens in the GDR who eventually breached Neues Palais; and the Neuer Garten’s Marmorpalais and
the Wall. A worthwhile stop, though unfortunately, the poor Schloss Cecilienhof.
translations and outdated texts do little to illuminate the
events leading up to the Wall’s construction. The museum Besides the palaces and parks, the compact town’s centre,
also has art interpreting the concrete division of the city, an half faded and half restored, makes for a pleasant stroll. The
exhibit on human rights movements, and film screenings. Kolonie Alexandrowka is in a park along Puschkinallee,
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €9.50/5.50. south of the rise to the Belevedere. Quaintly enough, the
log cabins here were built in 1826 for a 12-member Russian
Stasi Museum (Forschungs- und Gedenkstätte choir who had helped the Prussians fight Napoleon. Most
The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and the Normannenstraße) Ruschestraße 103, Haus 1, FH, of the boys got homesick and eventually left. The redbrick
development of two completely separated cities on both MMagdalenenstr., tel. 553 68 54, www.stasimuseum. Holländisches Viertel (Dutch quarter) is another failed
sides of the Wall that ran between them, has led to huge de. East Germany’s State Security Service or Stasi was settlement, but a great place to get a meal and browse in
differences that cannot be erased in a matter of a few responsible for intelligence gathering both at home and some shops. Friedrich Wilhelm I built the small district in the
years. Here‘s an overview of sights that give insight into abroad. It spied on its own citizens, sometimes employing 1730s to attract Dutch craftsmen.
life with the Wall. the friends, colleagues, and family of those they wished to
keep an eye on. Today, this humble museum shows the office Potsdam basics
Alliiertenmuseum (Allied Museum) Clayallee 135, of Erich Mielke, the Stasi minister for 32 years, in its original Potsdam is just a thirty-minute ride on RE train N°1 or 3 from
ZD, MOskar-Helena-Heim, tel. 818 19 90, www.al- dull state. In the former cafeteria you can watch a video of central Berlin. From Potsdam’s Hauptbahnhof station take FLUXUS+ Museum Schiffbauergasse 4f, Potsdam, tel.
liiertenmuseum.de. The Allied Museum covers 50 years of Mielke testifying before a panel in 1989. Symbols of Com- bus N°695 to get to the city centre and Sansoucci park. More 0331 601 08 90, www.fluxus-plus.de. A new museum
West German-Allied (US, British, French) relations in the US munist kitsch can be found in one room, and documents in information: Postdam Tourist Information, Am Alten Markt 5, displaying changing exhibitions of private collections and lo-
Army movie house Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original German make up the bulk of the exhibits. English tours are tel. 0331 275 58 20, www.potsdam.de. cal artists, varying from books, prints and paintings to video
sentry box from the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing. available with advance request. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, art. There’s a café with pleasant views of the park from the
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission free. Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Admission €3.50. Park Sanssouci, tel. 0331 969 42 02, www.spsg.de. terrace in summer. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
The low-lying rococo Schloss Sanssouci has a gorgeous Admission €7.50, Tues half price.
Berlin Wall Memorial F-2, Bernauer Str. 111, Trabi Safari F-3, Zimmerstr. 97, MStadtmitte, tel. 27 terraced approach. Its Bildergalerie wing features works
MNordbahnhof, tel. 464 10 30, www.berliner-mauer- 59 22 73, www.trabi-safari.de. East Germany’s cuddly by Rubens, Van Dijck and Caravaggio. On the opposite Marmorpalais, tel. 0331 969 42 46, www.spsg.
dokumentationszentrum.de. This excellent information two-stroke 26hp plastic car, recognisable by the charac- side are the Neue Kammern’s guest apartments. The de. First built in 1791 by the man who would next design
centre covers the Wall’s history in film, slides, and English teristic bem-bem sound and cloud of smoke, has nearly palace sits within the 290 hectares of Park Sanssouci, the Brandenburger Tor, this early classicist palace on the
text. German speakers can listen to the propaganda of the been wiped off the streets of Berlin. On a Trabi safari you which among other sights holds a botantical garden, the shore of Heiliger See was fussed over one last time in
Studio at the Barbed Wire broadcasts, which vans blasted are shown how to operate the revolver-like gearshift and Orangerie, Roman baths, the Chinese House, the Neues 1848. The fine furnishings and wares on exhibit include
via bullhorns to East German border guards between 1961 then off you go on an hour-long trip through the eastern Palais, and Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s Schloss Charlottenhof, Wedgewood ceramics. Q Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
and 1965. The guards often drowned out the message from part of town in a column of up to six farting Trabis. Choose whose interior is perhaps the best preserved example of Admission €2.
the West by playing music. A graffiti-free portion of preserved from a fleet of 60 colourful cars, zebra-striped, cabriolet Schinkel’s work. Each sight has its own separate admis-
Wall runs along Bernauer Straße; you can walk behind it and or streched. Find Trabi Safari at the Welt Balloon near sion charge and changing exhibits. A general information Schloss Cecilienhof , tel. 0331 969 42 44, www.
peer through a crack to see a preserved section of death Checkpoint Charlie. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Day trips office can be found at the historic windmill, between the spsg.de. Twentieth-centur y histor y was made when
strip. One stop by tram M10 from the S-Bahn station. QOpen 10:00-18:00, Night trips 20:00-24:00. From €30/person, Orangerie and Schloss Sanssouci. The hilltop Belvedere Stalin, Truman, and Attlee decided the future of post-
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. book in advance. auf dem Pfingstberg (open 10:00 - 20:00) is a romantic war Germany during the August 1945 conference at
folly lookout tower built according to plans of Friedrich Schloss Cecilienhof. This half-timber mansion between
Wilhelm IV and completed in 1863. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. two lakes in the Neuer Garten was finished in 1917. In the
Closed Mon. Schloss Sanssouci is open 09:00 - 16:00, same park is the Marmorpalais. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.
closed Mon. The guided tour costs €8; entrance to the Closed Mon. Admission €5 including Marmorpalais (open
park (open from dawn to dusk) is free. from 10:00).
Neues Palais, tel. 0331 96 94 255, www.spsg.de. Filmpark Babelsberg Großbeerenstr., MBabels-
Friedrich II preferred the simpler Schloss Sanssouci, but berg, tel. 0331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.de. Over
this was the palace in which his descendants Wilhelm I 3,000 films have been shot at the famous Babelsberg
and Wilhelm II razzled and dazzled guests. Use the English- UFA/DEFA studios, including Fri tz Lang’s Metropolis
language text (€10 deposit) as you follow the German (1927). Th e th em epark surroundin g th e studios is
guide through studies, bedrooms, and party rooms. The great for children and adults. Though the topics may be
stone- and shell-encrusted Muschel Saal is like a grotto unfamiliar to foreigners, there’s enough action to keep
from The Little Mermaid, and amongst so many chande- you amused, including stunt, animal and pirate shows,
liers on two floors, it’s Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s ‘crown of studio tours and ‘behind the scenes’ insights into spe-
kings’ that stands out. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri. cial effects through the years. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission €5. Admission €17/15,50.
ness event to a birthday party - and can take you just about Berlin has many exciting things to do that will keep both
anywhere on Berlin’s waterways. Ride near to the waves in the adults and offspring happy. There are countless Berlin Zoo
the rustic open Oskar, built in 1930, which seats 16 people theatre shows suitable for children, fun family city tours
and has a canvas top. You’ll look dashing with dark sunglasses organised by the tourist office, and many museums Visitor numbers to
and a flowing scarf on the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink put on special events and tours for children - there Berlin’s fantastic zoo have
beauty from 1950; this ship provides cushioned banquette are even some museums made specially for kids. Join rocketed since the birth
seating and space for elaborate picnics. And there are more Berlin In Your Pocket on a tour of Berlin’s best childrens’ of Knut the polar bear
elegant boats to choose from. The website is in German, but attractions. rocked the world – and
the office staff speak English. Prices depend on what kind of in 2007, over 3 million
tour you want and on food and drinks served. Charlottchen restaurant people visited, up 20%
A unique restaurant and theatre specially for children from 2006. There’s good
Reederei Riedel tel. (+49)(0)30 693 46 46, www. and th eir parents. Drop by with th e kids for tast y reason too, even if you’ve had enough of cuddly white
reederei-riedel.de. Join an informative voyage around the meals, the indoor playground with slides and a castle, bears; with some 14,000 animals of nearly 1400
city centre in one of Riedel’s panorama ships, accompanied and the regular theatre shows and other events. Call species, it’s the most varied zoo in the world. The kids
with multi-lingual audio guide texts. The three-hour tour ahead or visit the website to find out when the next will have their faces glued to the glass for hours at the
takes you beneath 63 bridges, through locks, past all the childrens’ theatre, puppet or clown show will take place. separate aquarium complex. Here, fish, reptiles and
city centre highlights, plus the red brick Oberbaumbrücke, Charlottchen (‘little Charlotte’) is also special for giving amphibians of all shapes, colours and sizes can be
Kreuzberg’s park areas and Potsdamer Platz. The 1,5-hour several handicapped people the chance to work in a viewed at close quarters in landscape basins and tanks.
tour floats by the highlights of the city. Embark at one of normal company. Highlights for most children are the blacktip reef sharks
ten piers. Charlottchen, Droysenstr. 1, tel. 324 47 17, www. and the crocodiles, though the jellyfish, corals and the
mosaik-services.de/686.0.html. Open daily from 10:00. rare lizard-like tuatara also deserve attention. The kids
Reederei Winkler tel. (+49)(0)30 349 95 95, will love you forever if their visit if it coincides with the
info@reedereiwinkler.de, www.reedereiwinkler.de. Cinestar CineKidz daily feeding times; polar bears at 10:30, penguins at
Winkler’s ships start longer tours at the Schloßbrücke in The special family cinema inside the ALEXA mall Kindercity 13:45, wolves and bears at 14:00, monkeys and pelicans
Charlottenburg, with the one-hour tours departing next to complex shows children’s films in daytime hours. The at 15:30. At the aquarium, the sharks, rays and other
Friedrichstraße train station. The longer tours take in the screening room has seats that can be adapted in height large fish get fed every second Mon at 15:00, and the
city’s bridges and sights by day, lasting 3 hours, though for smaller children, and there’s space with cushions at the crocodiles have dinner on Mon and Thu at 13:30.
one doubles back past the city’s main sights while the front for them to sit or lie too. Note that most films will be
other makes a round loop (and though it may pass less dubbed in German. Berlin Zoo & Aquarium, Budapester Str. 32,
spectacular sights, the parts of the city are no less scenic). Cinestar CineKidz, ALE X A am Alexanderplatz, S-Bahn Zoologischer Garten, tel. 25 40 10, www.
Another tour shows you the city lights by night. Narration Grunerstr. 20, tel. 30 87 43 90, www.kindercity.de. aquarium-berlin.de. Open 09:00-16:00. Admission
is bilingual on the short tours, otherwise English texts are (zoo and aquarium) €18/14; only zoo or aquarium
available. Q Departures at 10:15, 11:00, 14:15 and 15:00. Labyrinth Kindermuseum €12/9.
Tickets from €8,50-17. This children’s museum encourages kids to ‘learn
by doing’. The current award-winning exhibition has
Star-Line tel. (+49)(0)30 28 87 77 93, w w w. them solving problems, understanding correlations
After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border starlineschifffahrt.de. A one-ship company, Star-Line and learning about humankind’s place in the wider Naturkundemuseum
region to Berlin, the Spree River goes out with a bang offers the 3-hour Bridges Tour twice by day and once in the worl d. Wi th l ots o f a c ti ve an d intera c ti ve gam es, The sight of the largest mounted dinosaur in the world, a
before disappearing into the Havel River in the Spandau evening. A GPS-activated audio guide provides multi-lingual mirrors, puzzles, numbers and letters, the museum Brachiosaurus brancai, will have both children and parents
district. Cutting a southeast to northwest passage through commentary of what’s gliding by. The Blue Star sets off from of fers hours of fun for children and parents. Note astounded – and Berlin’s wonderful natural history museum
the city, the river provides tremendous views of the urban Märkisches Ufer (near Märkisches Museum U-Bahn station) that it’s a shoes-of f museum – bring com fy warm has much more. Poke fun at the aardvarks, learn about
landscape, including the Berlin Cathedral, the Reichstag and stops an hour later at the Caprivi Brücke, near Schloss socks or slippers! meteorites, see the world’s most famous fossil (the ancient
and government district and the Berlin Wall between Charlottenburg. You can choose this short ride, or continue Labyrinth Kindermuseum, Fabrik Osloer Straße, bird Archaeopteryx lithographica), and teach children all
Ostbahnhof and Warschauer Straße. Some of the Spree for the next two hours. Q Daily at 10:45 and 14:45 from Osloer Straße 12, tel. 800 93 1150, www.labyrinth- about the evolution of life on earth, as well as the diversity
is diverted along park-lined canals and the city has more Märkisches Ufer, 1,5 hours (€13/11). Evening cruise on kindermuseum.de. Open 13:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-18:00, and beauty of nature.
bridges than those boastful cities Venice and Amsterdam. weekdays from May at 19:00, €14/12. Mon closed. Admission €4/3,50. Naturkundemuseum, Invalidenstr. 43, MI, tel. 20 93
Taking in the city from the top deck of a cruise boat is a 85 91, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30-
great way to spend a few hours. A waiter takes orders for Stern und Kreisschiffahrt tel. (+49)(0)30 536 36 00, LOXX Miniaturwelten 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00, Monday closed. Admission
beer, meals, snacks and ice cream. The captain or a guide www.sternundkreis.de. 29 vessels conducting 20 different E xp e r i e n c e B e r l i n a n d m o re i n m i n i a tu re, a t t h e €6/3.50.
narrates (often in German only), but you’ll get the idea tours on the waterways of Berlin and surroundings. popular LOXX model train exposition inside the ALE XA
when passing a great-looking building. shopping centre on Alexanderplatz. The 750 square Osteria No. 1 restaurant
Boats offering similar 3.5-hour “Brücke” (Bridges) tours meters of landscapes that took over 400,000 man After letting the children run around Kreuzberg’s Viktoriapark,
leave from various landing spots. To reach the Märkisches Reederei Winkler hours to build has already attracted over 700,000 there’s no better place to head for a snack or meal than the
Ufer landing (G-2), take the U-Bahn to Märkisches Mu- people, and has immaculately recreated city districts, child-friendly Osteria N°1 restaurant. Apart from catering
seum, walk to the water and turn right; the landing is by Winkler’s ships start their longer tours at the Schloß- buildings, city lighting and naturally lots of model trains well to parents, they’re wonderful with children. No boredom
the Angolan and Brazilian embassies. Similar tours start brücke in Charlottenburg, with the one-hour tours de- zooming around. Th ere’s even a miniature airpor t allowed on the pleasant green terrace.
from the bridges Jannowitzbrücke (H-2; S- and U-Bahn parting next to Friedrichstraße train station. The longer with planes taxiing around, and the US presidential Osteria N°1, Kreuzbergerstr. 71, KB, M Mehringdamm,
Jannowitzbrücke) and Kottbusser Brücke (H-4; next to café tours take in the city’s bridges and sights by day, lasting airplane arriving. tel. 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00-24:00.
Ankerklause, near U-Bahn Schönleinstraße). 3 hours, though one doubles back past the city’s main LOXX am Alex, Miniatur Welten Berlin, Alexa-Center,
Tours lasting 1 to 1.5 hours depart regularly from two boat sights while the other makes a round loop (and though 3rd floor, Grunerstr. 20, tel. 44 72 30 22, www.loxx- Spectrum Science Centre
landings near Hackescher Markt (G-2), on the east side of it may pass less spectacular sights, the parts of the city berlin.de. Open 10:00-19:00. F-4, Möckernstraße 26, KB (Technical Museum),
Museum Island. Another company leaves from the west are no less scenic). The evening tour shows you the city MGleisdreieck, tel. (+49)(0)30 90 25 42 84, www.
side of the island, opposite the pink-coloured German lights by night. Narration is bilingual on the short tours, Magic Mountain sdtb.de. Four floors of science within the Technikmuseum
History Museum (G-2). A third place to begin a short tour is otherwise English texts are available. Have the kids lose some energy on Berlin’s best indoor complex. Great for inquisitive children who can do 250
behind the Haus der Kulturen der Welt (E-2), which has its climbing wall. Have them climb (charmingly called klettern hands-on experiments with sound, light and air, answer-
own bus stop in Tiergarten. Departures at 10:10, 11:00, 14:15 and 15:00. in German) up sheer walls, secured by ropes and under ing questions like why the sky is blue, what happens if
Tickets from €9-17. Reederei Winkler, tel. +49 supervision of professionals. you stand between parallel mirrors, and how to play a
M.S. Schiffskontor tel. (+49)(0)30 61 62 93 87, 30 349 95 95, info@reedereiwinkler.de, www. Böttgerstr. 20-26, U/S Gesundbrunnen, tel. 88 71 57 laser guitar, and more.QOpen Tue-Fri 09:00-17:30, Sat,
www.schiffskontor.de. This charter service company with reedereiwinkler.de. 90, www.magicmountain.de. Open 12:00-24:00, Thu Sun 10:00-18:00, Mon closed. Admission (with Technical
antique boats can cater to any occasion - from a relaxed busi- 10:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00-22:00. Admission €14/7. Museum) €4,50/2,50.
tausche Taschen Onitsuka Tiger Store Berlin Frey Wille Veronica Pohle
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Taschen stands for bags of high quality materials ing company in artistic jewellery of precious enamel and nauerplatz, tel. +49 (0)30 883 37 31, secret@
with exchangeable flaps in and exciting design, com- lists enormous achievements with its unique design veronicapohle.de, www.veronicapohle.de. Fashion
more than 100 different de- bining traditional and concept. An exceptional design philosophy, innovative by 40 international designers, including Kenzo, Temperley
signs. Two flaps are included modern Japan, the Japa- artistic creations and brilliant colours from FREY WILLE London, Moschino, Milly and Catherine Malandrino, in
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ous insets equip your bag to presents the whole variety enamelling are the most important factors of exclusive staff along the Ku-damm. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat
suit any occasion. of its shoe and apparel jewellery and enthousiasts across the world. 11:00 - 18:30.
collections. Don’t miss the specials celebrating the 60th
Raumerstr. 8, tel. 40 30 anniversary of the brand. Discover the creativity of FREY WILLEs famous collec-
17 70, fax 40 30 17 71, Alte Schönhauser Str. 20-22, tel. 24 63 21 03, tions inspired by famous artists like Klimt, Mucha, Monet
info@tausche.de, www. www.onitsukatiger.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:30, and Hundertwasser in two exclusive, well located flag-
tausche.de. Sat 11:00-19:00. ship stores in Berlin.
8&&,&/%-07&3
delberger Pl., tel. 861 93 31, www.berlinlinienbus.de. hertz.de. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun
Buses to national and international destinations. Munich 09:00 - 13:00.
€45, Hamburg €25, Frankfurt €44, Prague €38, Amsterdam
€53, Paris €76.
Deutsche Touring (Eurolines) Masurenallee 4, Doctors
tel. 069 79 03 50, www.deutsche-touring.com. One Dipl.-Med. Christa Bottin Prenzlauer Allee 189,
of the founding members of the Eurolines bus network,
DT has dozens of nicely priced international destina-
MEberswalder Str., tel. 442 38 23.
Dr. Alexandra Heiser Kurfürstendamm 139, MAde- The best way to rent a car in Berlin:
tions. Prague €35. Q Kaiserdamm 30: 09:00 - 18:00, nauerpl., tel. 89 54 07 50. General medicine & homeopathy.
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Dr. Karin Wrobel Schönhauser Allee 126 A, MSchön-
ZOB (Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof am Funkturm) hauser Allee, tel. 448 57 67.
Masurenallee 4-6, MKaiserdamm, tel. 301 03 80 Dr. med. Michael Oppel Der ff linger str. 14,
/302 53 61, www.zob-berlin.de. Berlin’s central bus MKurfürstenstr., tel. 44 72 81 28, fax 44 72 81 29,
station is not very central, at the western end of the oppel@integrative-medizin.com, w w w.integrative-
city. For tickets, contact the ZOB travel agency, www. medizin.com.
zob-reisebuero.de.
Hospitals
Business connections Benjamin Franklin Clinical Centre Klingsorstr.,
American Chamber of Commerce Charlottenstr. 42, MRathaus Steglitz, tel. 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.
tel. (+49)(0)30 28 87 89 21, www.amcham.de. fu-berlin.de.
Deutsche Industrie-und Handelskammer (Cham- Campus Charité Mitte Clinical Centre F-2, Luisen-
ber of Commerce) Breite Str. 29, tel. (+49)(0)30 str. 66, MZinnowitzer Str., tel. 450 53 10 00, www.
20308-0, www.dihk.de. charite.de.
Campus Virchow Clinical Centre Augustenburger
Pl. 1, MAmrumer Str., tel. 450 55 20 00, w w w.
Car rental charite.de.
Avis C-4, Budapester Str. 43, tel. 230 93 70, www.avis. German Heart Centre Berlin Augustenburger Pl. 1,
de. Q Open 24hrs. MAmrumer Str., tel. 45 93 10 00, www.dhzb.de. www.starcar.de rent-a-car
Budget Tegel Airport, tel. 41 01 33 64, www.budget. Charité Universitätsklinikum F-3, Schumannstr. 20-
de. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 21, MOranienburger Tor, tel. 45 050, www.charite.de.
- 23:00. Also at Budapester Str. 24. For Schönefeld Airport Waldfriede Hospital Argentinische Allee 40, MK- Berlin - Neukölln Tel: 030 / 68 29 68 0 Berlin - Tiergarten Tel: 030 / 25 75 77 0
call the above number. rumme Lanke, tel. 81 81 02 85, www.waldfriede.de.
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D E F G H I
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74 INDEX
Aaina Charlottenburg 32 Dunmore Cave 47 Label 205 22 Renger-Patzsch 35
Aaina Tempelhof 41 Egyptian Museum 50 Labyrinth Kindermuseum 61 Riehmer's 42
Aapka 25 Einhorn 37 La Forchetta 37 Riehmers Hofgarten 20
ackselhaus 20 El Dorado 38 Leysieffer 33 Ristorante Ciao 38
Adlon 15 Ellington Hotel 8, 15 LOXX Miniaturwelten 61 Ritz-Carlton 17
Aigner 22 Estrel 16 Luisenhof 19 Roter Salon 28
Air Service Berlin
Alberts
Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle 26
56
25
Fernsehturm
Filmpark Babelsberg
First Floor
57
59
34
Lutter & Wegner
Luxor Club
Magic Mountain
22
40
61
Rotisserie Weingrün
Route 66
Sage Club
24
32
47
8aVhh^XVa
Alliiertenmuseum 58 Fischers Fritz 22 Mai Tai Bar 27 Sage Restaurant 44
Alpenstueck 24 Florian 37 Mandala 17 Sale e Tabacchi 45
Alt Berliner Biersalon
Alte Nationalgalerie
39
50
Fluido
FLUXUS+ Museum
31
59
Manngo
Margaux
21
23
Sammlung Berggruen
Savoy Berlin
54
17
Choose between Berlin
Altes Museum
Altes Zollhaus
50
43
Foodorama
Forsthaus Paulsborn
42
35
Maritim proArte
Marjellchen
17
35
Schloss Cecilienhof
Schloss Charlottenburg
59
55
Philharmonic, choirs,
Amar
Amrit
44
44
Francucci's
Frida Kahlo
37
31
Mark
Märkisches Museum
19
52
Schnitzelei
Schöneberger Weltlaterne 35
33
ensembles and great
soloists. Enjoy world-class
AndaLucia 38 Ganymed 23 Marmorpalais 59 Schwarzenraben 26
ARCOTEL Velvet 15 Geburtstagsklub 31 Marooush 38 Schwarzwaldstuben 24
art'otel Berlin City Centre West Gedächtniskirche 48 Marriott 17 Seehof 17
Asado
15
36
Gemäldegalerie
Gendarmenmarkt
51
49
Martin-Gropius-Bau
Mar y Sol
52
39
Severin & Kühn
Silberfisch
57
27
concert experiences.
Astoria 19 Georgbräu 21 Maxwell 23 SO36 47
Atrium Lobby Lounge & Bar 27 Get2riCard 48 Memorial to the Murdered Jews Soda Club 28
Austria 42 Goldman's Bar 27 of Europe 51 Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt
Bar am Lützowplatz 39 Gorgonzola Club 45 Mercure Airport Hotel Berlin 18
Bauhaus Archiv 50 Grand Esplanade 16 Tegel 20 Sophieneck 22
Bavarium 35 Grand Hyatt 16 Metzer Eck 29 Spectrum Science Centre 61
Belushi's Bar 27 Grenander Morning Glory 33 Milchbar 46 Spindler & Klatt 47
Berlin
Berlin City Tour
Berlin CityTourCard
15
57
48
Grosser Kurfürst
Grüner Salon
Gugelhof
18
28
30
Mirchi
Mitte Bar
Mittmann's
25
27
24
Ständige Vertretung
Stasi Museum
State Museum Card
25
58
48
HiV\Z
Berliner Dom 48 Habel Weinkultur 24 Mola 38 Steigenberger Hotel Berlin 18
Berliner Residenz Concert 9 Hackescher Hof 24 Mommsen-Eck 39 Strandbad Mitte 27
Berlin Infostore
Berlinische Galerie
49
50
Hamburger Bahnhof
Hard Rock Café
51
32, 39
Montevideo
Motel One
37
20
Suksan
Sumo
32
46
One of the many theatre
Berlin on Bike
Berlin Plaza
57
18
Harry's New York Bar
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 58
39 Murray's Irish Bar
Museum für Asiatische Kunst
47 Suppenbörse
Sushi Circle
26
26 premieres, a musical or
Berlin Plaza Bar
Berlin Trails
39
57
HEat
Hecker's
26
19 Mutter Hoppe
52
24
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
30 cabaret? Check it out, it
Berlin Underworlds 56 Hefner 39 Myer's 19 Swissôtel Berlin 18
Berlin Wall Memorial
Berlin WelcomeCard
58
48
Henne
Hilton
43
16
Naturkundemuseum
Neue Nationalgalerie
52, 61
54
tausche Taschen
Technical Museum
64
55
will be interesting!
Berlin Zoo & Aquarium 61 Hollywood Media Hotel 19 Neues Palais 59 Telecafé 34
Best Western President 18 Hôtel Concorde Berlin 16 Neue Synagoge 49 Temporäre Kunsthalle Berlin 55
Bleibtreu 18 Hotel de Rome 16 Neue Wache 51 The Picasso Story 55
BLUE MAN GROUP 11 HSH Apartments Mitte 18 Newton Bar 27 The Regent Berlin 18
Bode Museum 50 HSH Hotel Albergo - Partner of Nikolaiviertel 49 Tim's Canadian Deli 33
Borchardt 22 SORAT Hotels **** 19 Nocti Vagus 30 Trabi Safari 58
Brandenburger Hof 15 Hugos 34 No Kangaroo 42 Traube 26
Brandenburger Tor 48 Icon 31 Onitsuka Tiger Store Berlin 64 Treffpunkt Berlin 25
Brecht-Haus Kellerrestaurant Il Nido 37 Operncafé 22 Tres Tapas 31
bubble.kid
Café am Engelbecken
21
63
42
IMAX
Immer gern
InterContinental
49
29
17
Operntreff
Oranium
Osteria N°1
24
26
45
Trompete
Union Jack
Van Long
39
40
21
GdX`%Ede
Café de Paris 33 Irish Harp Pub 14 Osteria No. 1 restaurant 61 VAU 23
Café im Literaturhaus 33 Irish Pub 40 Ottenthal 32 Veronica Pohle 65
Café Istoria
Chantrey
29
41
Jewish Museum
Joe's Wirtshaus zum Löwen 35
52 Pagode
Palace
41
17
Watergate
Week-End Club
47
28 Pop, rock, jazz or heavy
metal. Visit the most suc-
Charlottchen restaurant 61 Joseph Roth Diele 39 Panorama Café 34 Weihenstephaner 25
Cinestar CineKidz 61 Julep's New York Bar & Paris-Moskau 23 Weltrestaurant Markthalle 44
City Safari 57 Restaurant 32 Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz Westin Grand 18
Crowne Plaza Berlin City Centre
15
Junction Bar
Juwelier Heidenreich
46
64 Park Plaza
20
20
Wild at Heart
Wohnzimmer
47
31
cessful bands of our time,
Cum Laude
Dalí - The Exhibition
21
8, 50
Käfer Dachgarten
Kaffeebank
34
22
Park Sanssouci
Parlamento
59
45
Würgeengel
Yakitori Rokko
46
37
and concerts which are an
Dante
Delicious Doughnuts
27
27
Kaffee Burger
Kaffee Fröhlich
28
29
Pergamon Museum
Photography museum
50
54
Yorckschlösschen
Zander
13, 47
29 experience. Always in the
Deutsche Guggenheim
Deutsches Historisches
50 Kamala
Kartoffel Pfanne
21
43
Pizzeria i Due Forni
Play Off
30
21
Zillemarkt
Zoologischer Garten
36
55 middle of Berlin!
Museum 51 Kato 46 Potsdamer Platz 49 Zum Nussbaum 25
Deutsch-Russisches Museum Kempinski Bristol 17 Propeller Island City Lodge 19 Zum Schusterjungen 29
58 Kennedy Museum 52 Pullmann Schweizer Hof 17 Zur Letzten Instanz 25
Diekmann 36 Keyser Soze 27 Que Pasa 46 Zwölf Apostel 38
BERLIN
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