Los Angeles Times

In Cambodia Town, moving beyond 'The Killing Fields' and into success

LOS ANGELES - Phnom Penh Noodle Shack, one of the better-known restaurants in Long Beach's Cambodia Town, opened in 1985 in a tiny dining room with four tables.

Tan's aunts and uncles worked in sandals, with no air conditioning, on a floor slippery with grease. The menu was simple: some noodle dishes from a village outside Siem Riep and a few side items.

Cambodians came from all over, squeezing shoulder to shoulder at laminate tables to slurp bowls of noodles and pork soup that cost just a few dollars.

"People would come here and forget all about their grief, and just relax and remember the things that made them happy. It was a place for healing," said Tan, whose father worked as a waiter.

His older relatives - refugees from the Killing Fields, the five-year campaign of terror and genocide in the 1970s that left nearly 2 million Cambodians dead - thought in terms of survival. And so for two decades, despite its popularity with locals, the restaurant never changed or expanded.

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