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  • Surfer

    Layne Beachley, 45

    May 18, 2018 4 minutes
    As told to TODD PRODANOVICH
    Photo by
    TED GRAMBEAU

    When you know who you are, external pressures, judgments and projected opinions don’t seem to matter as much.

    Surfing is a unique sport in that you can enjoy it without competition. I’m no longer a competitive surfer, but I still surf all the time, so my connection with the sport is still incredibly strong. I don’t miss competition and I don’t miss the anxiety and weight of expectation that surrounds being at an event. Just being in the water and enjoying my surfing is enough.

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