Surfer

WAYNE LYNCH,

Do surfers have a responsibility to be stewards of the environment?

At whatever level you participate in surfing, surfers have such an amazingly unique life. It gives us so much. We’re so lucky when you look at the bigger picture of what goes on the world and the negative aspects of human life—whether it’s poverty, oppression or violence—then here we are, falling into this thing called surfing, and it’s just absolutely amazing what it gives us. It’s everything. We’re interacting as close as you can with the natural environment. If anybody should be aware of how special

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Surfer

Surfer1 min readPsychology
The Greatest Escape
Talk to virtually any mental health expert and they’ll bring up two of the easiest things to do to boost optimism, reduce stress and anxiety, and alleviate depression: Get outdoors and get some exercise. It’s really that simple. Surfing can be your t
Surfer2 min read
Desert Point, Indonesia
“This particular day was as big as I’ve ever seen at Desert Point—the type of day where there are far more surfers on land mind-surfing the wave than there are in the water actually surfing,” says Ryan “Chachi” Craig, who snapped this absolute gem at
Surfer9 min read
A World Away
The day I left New York City for Managua, things were almost still normal. Subways were packed, offices were full and bars and restaurants bristled and jangled as they do in the city. While there had been a handful of cases of the novel coronavirus,

Related Books & Audiobooks