Forged in battle, protected by honor: A warm wool hat

Through a large arched door with a heavy metal bolt lies a small and winding souk where three-dozen men and women knit, snip, iron, and smooth to keep a centuries-old craft alive.

This ancient Tunisian society of professionals is busy fending off one of its latest challenges: Chinese knockoffs of their chachiya hat.

But the giant lock to Souk Chaouachine is largely ceremonial. What truly guards this market in Tunis’ old city is a close-knit community that amid tufts of red wool has ruled its craft with an iron fist, transforming a woven hat into a national icon and continentwide fashion statement.

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