Jodie Cooper, 55
Feb 07, 2020
3 minutes
As told to JED SMITH
Photo by
RYAN HEYWOOD
“The fact that you’re surfing means you’re lucky. Surfing is such a positive and powerful thing to do. It’s medicinal, it’s physical, it’s all sorts of things.”
You don’t have to be the best surfer in the world to do what is good surfing for you. The only thing that is going to make you surf better is to surf more, but that’s not about enjoyment, necessarily. If you want to improve, you have to put in the effort and time and have the right equipment.
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