THE CHEEK OF IT

I’m a big fan of beef cheeks – the cheek is one of those cuts that has bags of flavour and is tailor-made for braising, with the fat and muscle in the meat cooking down to make the beef meltingly tender. Here, I’ve cooked them bourguignon-style, with lots of red wine, gorgeous spices, mushrooms and pancetta adding wintry richness. Yorkshire puddings are also very close to my British heart: making larger versions means they become the perfect vehicle for loading up