Gourmet Traveller

Bitter brew

Michael Zaccaria grew up in a typical Italian-Australian household. His Calabrian grandfather opened a small music store in Melbourne just after World War II, building it up into a bigger business over the ensuing decades. Relatives of his father’s generation still grow grapes and make wine in Calabria. Wine – and music – was always a part of family life. So was vermouth, often drunk as a refreshing aperitivo. And various kinds of amaro, the

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