Second time lucky

Four months ago on a Saturday night, a Metro Restaurant of the Year judge attempted to dine at Williams Eatery at 8pm, but found their attempt foiled. Williams had lost their booking, the place was empty, and they were closing up early. It did not make the Top 50.

Eager to recreate the scene, I booked on a Saturday, too. And at 8pm. This time, I walked into a party. Nearly every table was full, and there was plenty of chatter to fill the oblong Scandinavian space, muffling the jazz in the background (or hip-hop, I couldn’t tell…