The small mountain town of Zugarramurdi is not your typical tourist destination.

Tucked between lush, green hills, the Spanish town is only accessible by car - it has no bank, no pharmacy, and is more than an hour away from the nearest city. During a typical summer day like this one, the town is overrun by tourists during the day - speaking various languages, and cars struggling to make their way through the narrow streets.

Yet by the end of the day, the place seems to take one last collective sigh of relief as it empties of foreigners, and the mood darkens. By evening, the fog settles, and the drizzly rain begins to fall in no particular direction. It’s not unusual in this part of

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