Shane Dorian, 47
“Your source of stoke in surfing changes over time. For me, it’s not attached to riding the biggest wave or my year-end ratings anymore.”
I don’t think I could ever do it as dramatically as Greg Noll, but it has occurred to me. Every winter I assess my mindset and wonder if this will be the year I’ll paddle out at Jaws and decide that that’s it, I don’t want anything to do with it anymore. Now that
