Indianapolis Monthly

Small but Mighty

ON THE SAME driftless weekday in March that I desperately rigged a homemade Baby Björn out of an old sweatshirt to calm my Chihuahua-mix coworker during Zoom meetings, Lil Dumplings took to social media to reassure the gloomy quarantined masses that it would remain open for pickup and delivery. While the rest of us had lost track of our hairbrushes, the months-old global street-food counter was out there in the real world, enlisting the help of Grubhub and DoorDash, selling gift cards, keeping the lights on.

Soon after that, owner Carlos Salazar introduced a voluptuous NY Chopped Cheese sandwich on a sesame-seed

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