Indianapolis Monthly

New Season

Revisit

he requisite autumn trip to Brown County will be a little more enticing this year. The former smokehouse-and-pizza menu morphed into a slate of handcrafted dishes with regional flair, like braised short-rib meatloaf topped with smoked-tomato gravy and Tabasco fried onions; wild-mushroom strudel; and a hunk of sweet, sticky cornbread that is really just a conveyance for smoked corn butter and peppery buckwheat honey.

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