Canal House Cooking Volume N° 7: La Dolce Vita
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About this ebook
This volume celebrates the bounty of fall and the festive holiday season with delicious Italian dishes, some classic, some reinterpreted Canal House style.
Christopher Hirsheimer
Christopher Hirsheimer served as food and design editor for Metropolitan Home magazine, and was one of the founders of Saveur magazine, where she was executive editor. She is a writer and a photographer.
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Reviews for Canal House Cooking Volume N° 7
7 ratings1 review
- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Canal House Cooking is not a cookbook, it is dream travel. Elissa Hamilton and Christopher Hirshemeyer describe their trip to Italy in search of the Italian food made in home kitchens. While there, they lived in a small town in a small home and traveled the area eating the foods of the small cafes and inns or picking up fesh food in the markets. They would take food home and preparing it in a similar manner. In this way, they learn the daily diet of the Italian people, enjoying the Italian culture, and soaking up knowledge of home food preparation. I realize that they were working, but they make it seem so wonderful and describe it so beautifully, that from my armchair, I visualize myself on their trip. For me, this is the ultimate in armchair travel. The cookbook itself is very interesting, and their companion website describes palces to find difficult items. Unfortunately for me, this type of cooking is not possible because of time and scheduling, but the book is a joy to read. Maybe this summer, I can utilize some of their recipes. This book is for serious cooks and those who dream of being serious. Received Galley from NetGalley.com
Book preview
Canal House Cooking Volume N° 7 - Christopher Hirsheimer
A waiter sets a table in Florence
CANAL HOUSE
COOKING
Copyright © 2011 by Christopher Hirsheimer & Melissa Hamilton
Photographs copyright © 2011 by Christopher Hirsheimer
Illustrations copyright © 2011 by Melissa Hamilton
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
CANAL HOUSE
No. 6 Coryell Street
Lambertville, NJ 08530
thecanalhouse.com
ISBN: 978-1-4532-1943-0
Book design by CANAL HOUSE, a group of artists who collaborate on design projects.
This book was designed by Melissa Hamilton, Christopher Hirsheimer & Teresa Hopkins.
Edited by Margo True & Copyedited by Valerie Saint-Rossy.
Editorial assistance by Frani Beadle, Julia Lee, Julie Sproesser & Elizabeth May Wyckoff.
With great appreciation to
Colman Andrews, Lori di Mori & Jason Lowe
This 2012 edition distributed by Open Road Integrated Media, Inc.
180 Maiden Lane
New York, NY 10038
www.openroadmedia.com
CANAL HOUSE
COOKING
La Dolce Vita
Volume N° 7
Hamilton & Hirsheimer
Welcome to Canal House—our studio, workshop, dining room, office, kitchen, and atelier devoted to good ideas and good work relating to the world of food. We write, photograph, design, and paint, but in our hearts we both think of ourselves as cooks first.
Our loft studio is in an old red brick warehouse. A beautiful lazy canal runs alongside the building. We have a simple galley kitchen. Two small apartment-size stoves sit snugly side by side against a white tiled wall. We have a dishwasher, but prefer to hand wash the dishes so we can look out of the tall window next to the sink and see the ducks swimming in the canal or watch the raindrops splashing into the water.
And every day we cook. Starting in the morning we tell each other what we made for dinner the night before. Midday, we stop our work, set the table simply with paper napkins, and have lunch. We cook seasonally because that’s what makes sense. So it came naturally to write down what we cook. The recipes in our books are what we make for ourselves and our families all year long. If you cook your way through a few, you’ll see that who we are comes right through in the pages: that we are crazy for tomatoes in summer, make braises and stews all fall, and turn oranges into marmalade in winter.
Canal House Cooking is home cooking by home cooks for home cooks. We use ingredients found in most markets. All the recipes are easy to prepare for the novice and experienced cook alike. We want to share them with you as fellow cooks along with our love of food and all its rituals. The everyday practice of simple cooking and the enjoyment of eating are two of the greatest pleasures in life.
CHRISTOPHER HIRSHEIMER served as food and design editor for Metropolitan Home magazine, and was one of the founders of Saveur magazine, where she was executive editor. She is a writer and a photographer.
MELISSA HAMILTON cofounded the restaurant Hamilton’s Grill Room in Lambertville, New Jersey, where she served as executive chef. She worked at Martha Stewart Living, Cook’s Illustrated, and at Saveur as the food editor.
melissainsiennaedit.tifAbove, Melissa (left) and Christopher (right) in Siena; below, the Canal House ride
TOColivebranch-colorized-left-stretched.tifTEMPUS FUGIT
the hinds head sacred gin & tonic
gin & limone
dazzling italian sparklers
WORKING UP AN APPETITO
tramezzini: with white truffle butter
with prosciutto & arugula
speck, fontina & lemon panino
panino bianco
supplì al telefono
fonduta
bottarga on warm buttered toast
prosciutto & figs
A GOOD DAY FOR A BIG BOWL OF ZUPPA
christmas soup
mussel soup
capon broth with anolini
minestrone
PASTA
spinach pasta
egg pasta
green lasagne with tomato sauce & fresh ricotta
lasagne bolognese
fresh ricotta, butter & lemon ravioli
pappardelle & mushrooms
spinach tagliatelle with simple tomato sauce & ricotta
gnocchi verdi
ricotta gnocchi
RISO
risotto bianco
risotto milanese
risotto alla certosina
tummala di risotto e spinaci
PESCE
stewed eel
oil-poached swordfish
salt cod with tomatoes & green olives
branzino with shrimp & fennel
squid & potatoes
BIG BIRDS & LITTLE RABBIT
roast capon with dressing
chestnuts, prunes & bread crumbs
sausage & apples
poached capon in rich brodo
cold capon salad
guinea hen with cipolline & chestnuts
braised rabbit with capers & pancetta
CARNE
cabbage & fennel with sausages & borlotti
braised lamb & green beans
meatballs with mint & parsley
osso buco
new year’s cotechino with lentils
EAT YOUR VERDURE
porcini in umido
cabbage in agrodolce
stuffed onions piedmontese
peppers in agrodolce
chickpeas with stewed tomatoes
zucca
warm salad of radicchio & white beans
celery baked with tomatoes
WHY BUY IT WHEN YOU CAN MAKE IT?
salsa verde
fresh whole milk ricotta
simple tomato sauce
balsamella
ragù bolognese
spinach tagliatelle bolognese
pappardelle bolognese
DOLCI
apple cake
jam tart
cheesecake from rome’s jewish quarter
vin santo-poached pears with gorgonzola dolce
chocolate chestnut torte
monte bianco
gelato di gianduia
TOColivebranch-colorized-lowerleft-stretched.tiftableatlori%27seditsized.tifOur home away from home, Casa Canale in Tuscany
ornament CASA CANALE ornament
WE RENTED A FARMHOUSE IN TUSCANY—a remote, rustic old stucco and stone house at the end of a gravel road, deep in the folds of vine-covered hills. It had a stone terrace with a long table for dinners outside, a grape arbor, and apple and fig trees loaded with fruit in the garden. There was no phone, TV, or Internet service, just a record player and shelves and shelves of books. It had a spare, simple kitchen with a classic waist-high fireplace with a grill. It was all we had hoped for. It was our Casa Canale for a month.
The decision had been made back in our New Jersey studio six months earlier on a cold rainy day in early spring. Over a lunch of cannelloni, we’d gotten into a long conversation about why Italian food tastes so damn delicious. We sat there for a couple of hours discussing it. We have both traveled extensively in Italy, eating in every region, and in one sense we really do know Italian food: We know that seppie (cuttlefish) is served with white polenta in the Veneto; that bread crumbs replace grated cheese in Sicily;