Canal House Cooking Volume N° 5: The Good Life
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About this ebook
CANAL HOUSE COOKING VOLUME , N° 5, THE GOOD LIFE is a collection of some of our favorite recipes, the ones we cook for ourselves, our friends, and our families during the fall and right through the holiday season. These are recipes that will make you want to restock your pantry and refrigerator and start cooking.
We are home cooks writing about home cooking for other home cooks. Our recipes are easy to prepare and completely doable for the novice and experienced cook alike. In this volume we toast to the good life with ice-cold flutes of grower Champagne and cook lots of big, delicious food. We assemble our version of smørrebrød that glorious array of Danish open-faced sandwiches—with smoked, cured, and pickled fish. We turn out classic pâtés and terrines; top buckwheat blini with smoked salmon and trout roe; tuck black truffles under the skin of our roasted chicken; make our own sausages to serve with big spoonfuls of creamy polenta; and fill crêpes with savory and sweet fillings. We fry apple fritters in the fall and decorate
sugar cookies for the holidays.
Canal House Cooking, Volume N° 5, The Good Life, is the fifth book of our award-winning series of seasonal recipes. We publish three volumes a year: Summer, Fall & Holiday, and Winter & Spring, each filled with delicious recipes for you from us. Cook all year longwith Canal House Cooking!
67 delicious triple-tested recipes
Christopher Hirsheimer
Christopher Hirsheimer served as food and design editor for Metropolitan Home magazine, and was one of the founders of Saveur magazine, where she was executive editor. She is a writer and a photographer.
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Book preview
Canal House Cooking Volume N° 5 - Christopher Hirsheimer
Copyright © 2010 by Christopher Hirsheimer & Melissa Hamilton
Photographs copyright © 2010 by Christopher Hirsheimer
Illustrations copyright © 2010 by Melissa Hamilton
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
CANAL HOUSE
No. 6 Coryell Street
Lambertville, NJ 08530
thecanalhouse.com
ISBN: 978-1-4532-1941-6
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Book design by CANAL HOUSE, a group of artists who collaborate on design projects.
This book was designed by Melissa Hamilton, Christopher Hirsheimer & Teresa Hopkins.
Edited by Margo True & Copyedited by Valerie Saint-Rossy.
Editorial assistance by Julie Sproesser.
With great appreciation to
Gabrielle Hamilton for Christmas Eve
Frank Stitt for Grower Champagnes
This 2012 edition distributed by Open Road Integrated Media, Inc.
180 Maiden Lane
New York, NY 10038
www.openroadmedia.com
CANAL HOUSE
COOKING
The Good Life
Volume N° 5
Hamilton & Hirsheimer
Welcome to Canal House—our studio, workshop, dining room, office, kitchen, and atelier devoted to good ideas and good work relating to the world of food. We write, photograph, design, and paint, but in our hearts we both think of ourselves as cooks first.
Our loft studio is in an old red brick warehouse. A beautiful lazy canal runs alongside the building. We have a simple galley kitchen. Two small apartment-size stoves sit snugly side by side against a white tiled wall. We have a dishwasher, but prefer to hand wash the dishes so we can look out of the tall window next to the sink and see the ducks swimming in the canal or watch the raindrops splashing into the water.
And every day we cook. Starting in the morning we tell each other what we made for dinner the night before. Midday, we stop our work, set the table simply with paper napkins, and have lunch. We cook seasonally because that’s what makes sense. So it came naturally to write down what we cook. The recipes in our books are what we make for ourselves and our families all year long. If you cook your way through a few, you’ll see that who we are comes right through in the pages: that we are crazy for tomatoes in summer, make braises and stews all fall, and turn oranges into marmalade in winter.
Canal House Cooking is home cooking by home cooks for home cooks. We use ingredients found in most markets. All the recipes are easy to prepare for the novice and experienced cook alike. We want to share them with you as fellow cooks along with our love of food and all its rituals. The everyday practice of simple cooking and the enjoyment of eating are two of the greatest pleasures in life.
CHRISTOPHER HIRSHEIMER served as food and design editor for Metropolitan Home magazine, and was one of the founders of Saveur magazine, where she was executive editor. She is a writer and a photographer.
MELISSA HAMILTON cofounded the restaurant Hamilton’s Grill Room in Lambertville, New Jersey, where she served as executive chef. She worked at Martha Stewart Living, Cook’s Illustrated, and at Saveur as the food editor.
Christopher and Melissa in the Canal House kitchen
IT’S ALWAYS FIVE O’CLOCK SOMEWHERE
christmas eve by gabrielle hamilton
grower champagnes by frank stitt
WØRKING UP AN APPETITE
an appetizing smørrebrød
fried oysters
escargots sans their shells
BIG LIVERS
goose liver & pork terrine
goose liver pâté with truffles
toast points
foie gras au torchon
brioche toasts
seared foie gras with green grapes
UOVA HUEVOS OEUFS EGGS
scrambled eggs with truffles
piquillo pepper eggs
pimentón fried eggs
eggs with caper & parsley butter sauce
CRÊPES
broiled pig’s feet crêpes
crêpes
buckwheat crêpes
lemon sugar crêpes
orange sugar crêpes
chocolate & toasted hazelnut crêpes
pear & gorgonzola crêpes
buckwheat blini with smoked salmon & trout roe
GRANDMA’S GNOCCHI
our imaginary grandmother’s gnocchi
turkey neck sugo
simplest tomato sauce
simple tomato-pancetta sauce
truffled lobster with gnocchi
whole pot-roasted chicken with gnocchi
green & white soup with gnocchi
EAT YOUR VEGETABLES
niloufer’s cauliflower & chickpeas
the apple farm’s roasted cauliflower
warm savoy cabbage salad
red cabbage with apples & chestnuts
puréed celery root & potatoes
collards & bacon
cauliflower soufflé
FINS ’N’ THINGS
sole & shrimp
lobster with browned cream
steamed mussels with potatoes
chowder
SAUSAGES
making fresh sausages
italian sausage
duck sausage with quatre épices
lamb sausage with currants
sausages with apples & onions
grilled sausages & quail
polenta
cassoulet our way
confit of goose legs
BIG BEAUTIFUL BIRDS
roast goose with ten legs
apples cooked with cumin
chicken & mushrooms
truffled chicken
SERIOUS MEAT
fresh ham with madeira sauce
roasted pork belly
céléri rémoulade
moroccan lamb roast
mint sauce
braised beef with currants & caraway
HOLIDAY SWEETS
sugar cookies
coconut cookies
lemon cookies
nut cookies
orange-rosemary cookies
oeufs à la neige
pets de nonnes
pear upside-down cake
apple fritters
OUR OPEN DOOR POLICY
ONE MORNING A THICK ICY VELVET COVERS THE LEAVES—it’s the first hard frost. We’ve had all the clues: golden light falling through the thinning trees patterning the grass, the whiff of wood smoke hanging in cold air, and a certain vibrancy to every view and vista. But a hard frost is the delineator. When we meet at Canal House, we both start talking at the same time What a day! Fall is really here. Let’s take a walk before work.
And up the towpath we go, Christopher’s little dog, Henry, padding along at our side. We talk as we walk and quickly the conversation turns to food. We think of all the things we’d like to eat now that the cold weather is here. Let’s make sausages…remember that delicious broiled lobster with cream we used to make…gnocchi, definitely gnocchi…and we need to ask Frank Stitt about those grower Champagnes.
So we make a list and a plan.
One day we drive into New York to see what’s cooking. We’re buzzing with excitement and expectation as we drive first through pretty country roads, then onto two-lane highways, and finally we are navigating the four lanes of freeway as we near the city. We chat all the way in about where we are going to go, what we want to buy, then how we plan to cook everything. We are hungry for the elegance of truffles, foie gras, and caviar, and turned on by the idea of making our own fresh sausages, rustic terrines, and roast goose. We’re having a good time.
We hit a few stores, and then we head for Russ & Daughters,