With the Sea Beside Me: An Intimate Guide to California's Central and North Coast

With the Sea Beside Me:

An intimate guide to California’s central and north coast

Meade Fischer

Copyright 2011

by Meade Fischer

ISBN 0-9672523-7-7

First printing: April 2012

Second edition, revised: Dec. 2012

Revised Feb. 2013, Sept & Dec 2013

Table of Contents

Introduction     

1. Santa Barbara to Morro Bay 

2. San Luis Obispo North coast 

3. Big Sur 

4. Monterey Bay   

5. Santa Cruz to Pacifica 

6. Pacifica to San Francisco

7. Marin County 

8. Sonoma and Mendonoma Coast   

9. Mendocino 

10 Lost Coast

11. Humboldt Coast

12. Del Norte Coast 

Introduction

The road sings to me, the hum of tires on pavement, the wind rushing through open windows, the crash of the waves below me, the cries of the sea birds, weaving figure eights in the soft, damp air. It’s a song I’ve memorized over what feels like eons traveling the edge between land and sea, feeling the pull of  a long forgotten semi aquatic past, when our almost hairless ancestors, prone to deposits of fat, like seals, made their way through the primal lakes and wetlands of the Rift Valley.

There are moments along this coast that have defined me, like small vials that kept my liquid spirit from pouring away, moments that have come like hummingbirds, a blur, a beating of wings and then the silence of memory. I have gathered my odd pearls of experience on these roads and I’ve strung them together to create my narrative, and if there are any lessons or bits of wisdom to be found they will be stumbled upon accidentally, the way they have been scattered before me and discovered in my travels.

Chronology is difficult; at least it is for me. It feels as if there is no order to these events, although they did arise in some sequence. It’s just that my memory stores according to emotional flavor, rather than in any time order. The order here is geographical.

My intention is to give you an intimate tour of California’s central and north coast, to describe these areas in a way that demonstrates their special qualities, to give some information for your travels, and most importantly, to provide a series of road stories that are intended to bring each section of the road to life and to make you feel a part of the area.

But, before I begin this journey, I want to remind you that traveling, like life, needs goals but not a rigid agenda. The best way to travel is to remain open to the experiences that await you, open and willing to pause and savor them. Sometimes you find yourself cramming two days worth of travel into one, and at other times it can take you days to cover 100 miles.

I’ve tried to write this for you if you are either an adventurer or a casual traveler who has a deep sense of curiosity about anything along the road that looks interesting. So, for the traveler, the families and those without camping gear, I’ve tried to offer a nice selection of places to stay and to eat, throwing in some bargains with some more upscale places. Even a basic camper like myself gets the urge occasionally for a nice hotel with a warm pool.

If you are a kayaker, this book should be an excellent guide, as I’ve mentioned just about every good place to launch, some that only a few locals usually know about. For the hiker, I can’t promise I’ve begun to hike all the possible trails on the coast, but the ones I’ve hiked and loved are mentioned and sometimes even described in detail.

For the camper, I’ve included state and county parks, BLM campgrounds (my favorites) and even a few places where someone can pull over for the night and camp for free.

For the lover of good beer and ale, and I know very few adventure travelers who aren’t beer lovers, I’ve included the wonderful brew pubs along the coast, but just along the coast. For above all this is just about the coast, or, as in some places, as close as one can reasonably get to the coast.

Almost the entire coast is accessible to someone determined enough. You can walk the Lost Coast, along with other stretches that aren’t served by roads. However, there are a few places that will get you arrested if you try to explore. Vandenberg AFB is one of these, as is Hollister Ranch at Point Conception. From the south end of Point Conception to Point Sal, there are only two places open to the public. However, if you are a determined surfer and have access to a boat, you can at least enjoy the water off Hollister Ranch, but I wouldn’t push my luck with the Air Force, as a military uniform does not mesh easily with the life of an adventurer. 

A few tips about traveling the coast include: bring warm clothes, as it can get damn chilly on the north coast, even in mid summer. If you need a nice campground with facilities, such as those offered by the state, make prior reservations, but if you didn’t, there are always private campgrounds along the way, never as nice as the public ones, but always with hot water and restrooms. I’ve included a few of these.

Generally, food, lodging and gas is available anywhere. After all, this is the most populous state. However, there are places, such as the Lost Coast, where you can drive nearly a hundred miles without a restaurant or gas station, and I’ve been careful to note that. I don’t want one of my readers calling me from their cell, demanding I come out and bring gas because my book left them stranded.

With an RV or van, you can go anywhere. There are always pullouts and other places where you can simply pull over and spend the night, rarely getting bothered by the authorities, unless you are there multiple nights.  With a tent you need to be more prepared.

For detailed descriptions of almost every campground in California, get a copy of Tom Stienstra’s California Camping. For hiking, Robert Stone puts out a series of day hike books for various locations, covering Ventura through Big Sur. For other areas, stop at local book sellers for titles that cover their part of the state. For kayaking, pick up Michael Jeneid’s Adventure Kayaking Trips from the Russian River to Monterey. This is a very comprehensive guide to the area, and I am in the process of writing a guide to the rest of the north coast.

I think that the best way to use this book is to read it first to get a feel for the various areas, particularly the ones that sound appealing to you. Then, when you go, take the book along for a mile by mile guide.

Santa Barbara to Morro Bay

To my mind and probably accurate geographically, the central coast starts at Point Conception. That is where a transverse range of mountains, suddenly jutting skyward, cuts off Southern California from the rest of the state, forms the rugged Point Conception area and extends out to sea in the form of the Channel Islands. In other words, I should start this guide at Point Conception, but I’m going to fudge by about 33 miles. On the coast, large cities or towns are often far apart.  From Santa Barbara to the next big town, Santa Maria is about 70 miles, another 150 to the next one, Salinas. The bigger towns in between are all under 50,000 people.

Santa Barbara is a good place to start our trip north. It sits just beyond the edge of what we consider Southern California, and it shares a piece of the coast with three excellent state beaches. Also, before going on an extended adventure, it’s nice to check into a nice motel, get a good meal, enjoy the last consistently warm beach and perhaps take advantage of nightlife and tourist attractions.

If you get off the 101 at Garden or Castillo Streets, it’s a short couple blocks to the harbor and beach. There’s a pier with restaurants, and at the harbor you can launch your boat, rent one or take a charter. The Maritime Museum is there, along with restaurants and a nice, sheltered beach with volleyball courts, kayak launching and sunbathing. It’s a wide beach, in places backed by a wide lawn, and it extends many blocks. Opposite the beach is a row of hotels and motels. The Doubletree resort takes up over a block, and the Best Western sits on the corner of Castillo. There’s a Motel 6 and a Day’s Inn near the beach, probably the best bargains within walking distance of the water. However, about a block up Castillo is the Avania Inn, where I last stayed, a bit more than Motel 6 and Day’s Inn, but considerably cheaper than the Doubletree. The room had a view of the mountains and was quite large, with comfortable furniture and a rather plush king bed. Best of all, it was quiet at night. There was even a computer with an internet browser in the lobby. There’s also the Castillo Inn on Castillo Street and the Hotel Marmonte on East Cabrillo Blvd.  off  Milpas at the waterfront.

The real gem in the beach area is the Brewhouse. I love brew pubs, and this one had everything going for it. Located at 229 West Montecito, it’s walking distance to the beach, has a nice mix of tourists and locals, a great bar, outstanding ales, wonderful food (I recommend the mint lamb burger or the ribs, chased by an IPA), service with a smile and music five night a week. When the beautiful hostess welcomes you at the door, you get the feeling you’ve just stepped into a Bavarian beer garden during Oktoberfest. She exudes the perfect image for her job. I’ll never go to Santa Barbara without a stop at the Brewhouse.  However, for breakfast along the beach, there’s a real blast from the past, the original Sambo’s restaurant, from 1957. Contrary to common wisdom, this was actually named for Sam and Bo, the founders. There are tables on the sidewalk, across from the beach.

About four blocks up from the freeway is the historic district, and about four miles from the wharf is the Museum of Natural History and Mission Santa Barbara. A couple miles beyond that is the Botanic Garden. Santa Barbara also has a zoo.

There are many summer activities, including free concerts on Thursday nights from 6-8:30pm, through late August, in Chase Palm Park, at the beach. Dust off your dancing shoes, grab family and friends, pack up a picnic dinner and come on down and celebrate summer.

Lower State Street has been converted to a walking mall, with lots of places to eat, drink wine or coffee and go shopping.  It is a charming town, full of wealthy people and mostly upscale tourists, but the town also has its poorer, less fancy neighborhoods.

Along the beach you can rent bikes and three and four wheel multi-passenger pedal vehicles to ride the bike trail along the beach: 805-966-2282. You can also rent paddleboards and kayaks at the harbor: www.channelislandso.com. Another local outfitter is Truth Aquatics: www.truthaquatics.com. Take a sunset sailing cruise: www.SunsetKidd.com, or beer and wine tours at: www.paradisewineandcitytours.com.

Go whale watching with Condor Express: www.condorcruises.com, or sport fishing on the Stardust: www.stardustsportfishing.com. And the one I want to try is Channel Islands National Park sea cave kayaking with Santa Barbara Adventure Company: www.SBAdventureCo.com. They take you out to the islands with kayaks, and you paddle around the sea caves and islands. In short, there’s plenty to do in Santa Barbara before you hit the road north.

I take a deep breath when Santa Barbara and UC Santa Barbara at Isla Vista are behind me, along with any rush hour traffic. Soon the road opens up, and it’s all rural, and the traffic quickly dies away. Roll down the window, crank up the volume on your favorite tunes, lean back and enjoy. This stretch of road has a special feel for me. Once a Southern California resident, but now, when I have to go back south, perhaps to see an old friend, the press of people and pavement is oppressive, and on that charming slice of road I’m finally able to exhale and substitute daydreams for traffic tension.

There are three state park camping areas and thirty miles of beach between Santa Barbara and Point Conception, all sharing that Riviera climate that makes Santa Barbara such a draw. Unfortunately, people reserve the camp sites, particularly in summer, so getting in is chancy, unless you plan your trips so far in advance that you can pre book. Book today for your grandkids’ college graduation. The three are El Capitan, a charming wooded cove, campgrounds among the trees and a long, family friendly beach. It also has some trails that run along a stream, down to the beach and around the campgrounds.

Refugio is the next, and it’s quite similar to El Capitan. At the little point, you’ll usually see a knot of surfers in the water, waves or not. There is, however, Refugio Road, on the inland side of the highway, which was an adventure on my first visit. It wandered many miles, through the Los Padres National Forest and into the Santa Ynez Valley. Much of it was unpaved, but now the road is closed seven miles in from 101, and there area signs saying no overnight camping. That’s unfortunate, as those of us who couldn’t get into the campground, would go a mile up the road and camp outside the ranch fences, and it was just as much fun as the state park, because the shared conspiracy of unofficial camping made us all instant friends.

After passing Refugio and before reaching Gaviota State Beach, just before passing a sign that says Mariposa Reina ¼ mile, there’s a wide spot on the beach side, often with cars parked. It’s an easy down to a nice, but narrow beach, one that sometimes has nice surf.

Since that particular side trip adventure is off the menu, stay on 101, and the next beach is Gaviota, with another campground. Of the three, Gaviota is probably your best shot at finding a campsite, and it is located right where the highway turns inland to Point Conception.  You stand a better chance here because the campground is unappealing, mostly a big dirt parking lot for RVs. However, the beach, which starts under the high railroad bridge, is every bit as nice as any along this stretch.

While you would love to continue along the lovely beach as the railroad track does, the road leading up and north, just before the entrance to the park only goes a short way. While Gaviota State Park extends a bit north, as it does south and east along the 101, most of that wonderful stretch of coast is the Hollister Ranch, being developed for a handful of people who can afford to both enjoy it and enjoy knowing they can keep you and me out.

This is the point where southern California comes to an abrupt end, as the road leaves the beach and heads into a rocky canyon at the southern end of Point Conception. The wind roars up the narrow canyon and almost instantly changes the weather from Riviera to California chilly. There is a state rest stop here, probably the most scenic one in California, so stop, use the bathroom and check out the rock formations above you—something you won’t see from the car unless you have a convertible.  You can see the jagged sandstone ridges that were once ocean bottom before being thrust up to form that rare transverse range. North of here, the Coast Range, Gabilans and the Sierra Nevada, all run north and south.  There’s a rest stop on either side of the highway, just as you leave the coast, and on the southbound side, I’ve learned that if I’m heading south and pull in and sleep in my van, I hit Los Angeles in the morning, just after rush hour and can get straight through. There are very few traffic windows in the greater LA area, so you’ve got to plan.

Exit the rest stop and head through a short tunnel carved out of the rock. You are now in central California, rolling up and over undulating tan hills, studded by oaks, under a soft blue sky. When you come down the other side of the hill, you hit Buellton, the first town where you can pull off at one exit for food, gas and needed supplies without going more than two blocks from the highway.

Most travelers continue on 101 through Buellton, Los Alamos, and on to Santa Maria, an area that changed a few years ago from ranches to wineries, as in the movie Sideways. However, 101 is not the coast, and it’s not all that interesting. The better choice is to take Highway One which cuts off a short way past the rest stop. This gives you about 20 miles of uncrowded highway that winds, in long, sweeping turns, through the hills of the east end of Point Conception.

About two thirds of the way to Lompoc, there’s the turnoff for Jalama County Beach, the only public access along Point Conception, the rest being ranches, such as the private Hollister and Bixby ranches, between Gaviota and Jalama. Above Jalama is Vandenberg Air Force Base, miles of coast off limits to everyone except base personnel. You have to drive 14 scenic, winding miles down to Jalama, which has a campground as well as picnic areas. It also has some serious surf, particularly in winter and spring. It’s a good place to pitch your tent for a night or so, away from the mad rush of the highway. As the place becomes more popular, the campground is often full in summer. Day use is $10, tent camping runs from $10-$40, and RV sites with electric hook up are $40. They also have cabins that rent from $80 to $200, depending on cabin, season, weekday or weekend. There’s a little stream on the north end of Jalama, and if my memory serves me, on my first visit there was a riparian corridor along there, but it’s all open beach now. At that time, I also recall a group of hitch hiking teens camped at the Hwy. One junction. I piled them in my car and hauled them to Jalama. That’s another impromptu camping spot that’s likely off limits now.

Once back on Highway One, it’s a short drive to Lompoc, an unremarkable little town that seems to be rapidly growing, with a few good restaurants, some motels, two little book stores, a quaint old downtown and access to the