149 Paintings You Really Should See in Europe — Venice and Florence
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About this ebook
This chapter from Julian Porter’s essential companion to all the major European museums and galleries discusses some of the greatest paintings to be found in the museums and galleries of Florence and Venice. His passion for art began with the seven years he spent as a student tour guide in Europe. In this segment he discusses works by masters such as Tintoretto, Botticelli, Veronese, and many more.
In the usually pretentious arena of art connoisseurs, Porter’s voice stands out as fresh and original. He finds the best of the best, which he describes with entertaining irreverence, and spares you hours of sore feet and superfluous information.
Julian Porter
Julian Porter is a litigation lawyer whose other passion in life is art. He’s had a lot of fun looking at art and wants to share his enthusiasm with others. He has lectured in galleries from Madrid to St. Petersburg. He lives in Toronto.
Read more from Julian Porter
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149 Paintings You Really Should See in Europe — Venice and Florence - Julian Porter
5
ITALY
(Venice and Florence)
The treasures of Rome and the Vatican, wonderful as they are, comprise only one small part of the riches of Italy. Indeed, I would go so far as to say that a visit to Venice and Florence is an essential experience for everyone hoping to experience Europe’s art.
With water everywhere, Venice offers a unique experience. Navigating canals to reach each church or gallery turns every visit into an adventure. Venice is also the one European city in which you can easily get lost without worry. No matter which tiny, unnamed passageway you follow, you will end up at a canal and find your way back to St. Mark’s Square.
Florence, Florence, you must visit Florence. It is a city of sculpture — Donatello, Michelangelo, Verrocchio, Ghiberti. It is a walking city, too touristy perhaps, but you must persevere. If you are careful to plan, and make reservations in advance, you will be able to avoid the horrendous lineups and spend your visit engrossed in your stunning surroundings.
THE PAINTINGS
57. Crucifixion
Tintoretto, Jacopo Robusti, 1565
Scuola Grande di S. Rocco, Venice
Photo: Scala / Art Resource, NY
Tintoretto’s Crucifixion in Venice’s Scuola Grande di S. Rocco is a circus of a painting with an evanescent Christ high up dominating workers, gawkers, potentates, hucksters, carpenters, crying women, and turbaned horsemen. Venetians in armour, Michelangeloesque workers are pulling, straining, and heaving, all in an eddy around Christ. Some viewers of wealth saddled on horses merely appraise, others gawk.
The Gospel of Matthew (27:33–50) sets the scene:
And when they came to a place called Golgotha (which means place of a skull), they offered him wine to drink, mixed with gall; but when he tasted it, he would not drink it. And when they had crucified him, they divided his clothes among themselves by casting lots; then they sat down there and kept watch over him. Over his head they put the charge against him, which read, this is Jesus, the King of the Jews.
Then two bandits were crucified with him, one on his right and one on his left. Those who passed by derided him, shaking their heads and saying, … If you are the son of God, come down from the cross.
In the same way the chief priests also, along with the scribes