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Pruning Apple Trees - Three Articles
Pruning Apple Trees - Three Articles
Pruning Apple Trees - Three Articles
Ebook52 pages45 minutes

Pruning Apple Trees - Three Articles

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This antiquarian book contains a comprehensive guide to pruning apple trees, with information on tools, when to prune, how to prune, common problems and avoiding them, and much more. This informative and profusely illustrated text will appeal to orchard-owners and discerning gardeners, and would make for a great addition to collections of gardening and agricultural literature. Although old, the information contained herein is timeless, and will be of as much use to modern readers as it was when first published. The chapters of this book include: 'The Final Pruning', 'Branches Must Not be Crowded', 'High Heads versus Low Heads', 'The Framework', 'The Second Stage', 'The Fruiting Stage', 'A Well-Formed Old Apple Tree', 'Odd Years', 'The Time to Prune', 'Painting Wounds', 'Pruning Tools', etcetera. This book is being republished now in an affordable, modern edition - complete with a specially commissioned new introduction to growing fruit.
LanguageEnglish
Release dateOct 25, 2011
ISBN9781447490944
Pruning Apple Trees - Three Articles

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    Pruning Apple Trees - Three Articles - Read Books Ltd.

    Pruning Apple Trees

    LET us first describe the orthodox pruning of an apple tree. There are five chief types of tree: the standard, which has a head of branches on a stem 5 feet to 6 feet high (the half standard is a similar tree on a shorter stem); the bush, which has a number of branches that arise near the base of the tree; the pyramid, which has a central stem from which branches grow throughout its full length; the cordon, which has one, two, or three stems, but no secondary branches, except the short side shoots on which the fruits are borne; and trained trees (dealt with in a separate chapter).

    The orthodox method of pruning is much the same for all these forms of apple trees. It consists first of all in cutting out weakly and ill-placed shoots that tend to overcrowd and interfere with the development of the main branches; that process is known as thinning out, and is a necessary preliminary to the actual pruning or cutting back.

    Then we come to deal with the main branches. Their pruning consists in shortening the part that grew during the previous summer by one-third, if they are only moderately strong, or by one-half, or even two-thirds, if they are rather weakly. Finally, there are the side shoots to be pruned.

    Side shoots are those that develop on the main limbs of the tree and on which the fruits are borne. These are pruned twice a year—in late July or early August, and again in winter—during December or January. The summer pruning consists in shortening the current summer’s growth only of the side shoots to within about six buds of the base; the older wood below that point must not be cut. In this connection it should be mentioned that the small leaves at the extreme base of the shoot are not to be counted. In the course of a few weeks further shoots will develop from the top of the shortened side shoots; these are known as sub-laterals, and should be cut off as soon as they have formed one or two leaves.

    The Final Pruning

    At the final pruning in December or January the side shoots are again shortened—this time to within two buds of the base of the past summer’s growth. Thus the tree in winter will possess a limited number of main branches at from 12 to

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