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    Surf Stories from the Board Rack
    Surf Stories from the Board Rack
    Surf Stories from the Board Rack
    Ebook107 pages1 hour

    Surf Stories from the Board Rack

    By Merlin Cadogan

    ()

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    About this ebook

    Pete is a beach life guard. His wife Mary runs the cafe on the beach. Each night his son Tim asks him for a bedtime story about one of the surf boards in his board rack.
    Each story teaches surfing etiquette and water safety and leaves Tim stoked and ready to surf !
    The last 4 stories in this 10 story compilation are adventures Tim has when he is out surfing.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherMerlin Cadogan
    Release dateOct 24, 2015
    ISBN9781311537300
    Surf Stories from the Board Rack
    Author

    Merlin Cadogan

    Merlin Cadogan was a qualified beach lifeguard and surfing instructor for the Tiki surf school in Devon, England.He has surfed all over the world and has taught hundreds of people to surf.He wrote most of these stories on surf trips to Indonesia.Merlin is a professional escapologist and juggler who reached the semi finals on Britains Got Talent in 2009 juggling fire underwater and escaping from 10 metres of chain. Merlin is also a keen treasure hunter combining his love of diving with underwater metal detecting and is sponsored by Minelab Metal Detectors.He has free dived to 30 metres with Sara Campbell and held 2 Guinness World Records for picking the most police handcuffs in one minute and juggling 3 balls underwater the longest.

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      Book preview

      Surf Stories from the Board Rack - Merlin Cadogan

      SURF STORIES FROM THE BOARD RACK

      ORDER OF CONTENTS

      Contents

      Acknowledgements

      Trust in Magic

      The Rescue Board

      The Paddleboard Race

      The World’s First Short Board

      Malibu Madness

      Stand on Your Own Two Feet

      Tim Saves the Day

      Tim’s New Board

      Tim’s First Ding

      Barrel Boy

      About The Author

      Connect with Merlin Cadogan

      Acknowledgements

      I would like to dedicate this book to my mum and her husband Rich (the legend) to my girlfriend Catherine, Tallulah, Kanace, Kacey and Riley.

      And to my old surfing friends, Jools (the king of Saunton Sands) who is a true water man and Cliff Tattersall, Greg Robinson and Ashley Braunton who I have shared many waves and memories with.

      Trust In Magic

      Tim was a happy young boy. He lived in a house with his mum and dad next to the sea. His dad was a lifeguard, and his mum ran the cafe on the beach.

      What made Tim such a happy boy was the sea. Each day he would have an adventure, each day he would meet new people and make new friends.

      He loved to surf. His dad would teach him the basics of surfing, and then, while his dad was keeping a close-eye on him he would paddle out into the surf and surf all day long.

      Tim was only ten years old, but already he could ride waves and he loved the feeling of cruising along the wave trying to stay ahead of the breaking white water. When Tim caught a good wave all the older guys who had been on the beach since Tim could remember, would cheer and hoot. Tim liked that, but Tim’s favourite part of the day was going to bed!!

      That’s strange! I hear you say, most ten-year olds hate going to bed, but not Tim!!

      The reason that Tim liked going to bed so much was because of his dad’s stories.

      Each night Tim would choose one of the surfboards from his dad’s surfboard rack, and Pete (Tim’s dad) would tell him a story about it.

      His dad had surfed all over the world on these boards, and Tim never heard the same story twice - except one. That was Tim’s favourite story. It was a story about the board Tim’s father had found the day he met his wife, Tim’s mum. And it went like this.....

      I was surfing in Devon (where the family now lived). The surf was big and dangerous. The waves were as big as I had ever seen. In fact, they were so big that they had woken me up in my campervan where I had been sleeping in the sand dunes. The waves were making so much noise, that when I woke up I thought there had been an explosion. The van shook each time a wave broke, and I knew it was the day that I had been training for all my life.

      I looked at my watch, and saw that it was 6am. I went for a walk to the beach, and couldn’t believe what I saw; waves the size of a small house coming in and breaking on the rocks. My mouth was suddenly dry and I felt nervous.

      Back at the campervan I made breakfast. Sandy, (my dog) sensed that something big was going to happen, and as soon as we had eaten breakfast he ran off.

      I hunted for Sandy for a while and then gave up, when a dog doesn’t want to be found you won’t find it.

      Back at the van I got my surfboard ready. I took my time checking the leash (which attaches the board to your leg), and waxing down the deck of the board so I would get good grip when I stood up.

      I put my wetsuit on, and did a nice long warm up, stretching my arms and legs. I was ready at last. I put a bowl of water down for Sandy, and walked to the beach with the ground shaking under my feet. I wondered if I would ever see my trusty dog again.

      I had two choices. Paddle out through the white water, or walk along the cliff and jump off the end. I watched the sea moving for ages, and finally decided to do the cliff jump.

      I fastened the leash to my ankle, prayed that I would live to tell the tale, and peered over the edge of the cliff.

      The sea was angry and restless. Huge chunks of white water were popping up and forming into monster waves all over the place, and the sea seemed so far below me!!

      Here goes, and with that I jumped holding my board next to me. As I landed I threw the board away from me, and that was the last I ever saw of it - the leash had snapped!

      So there I was, twelve to fifteen foot waves between me and the beach, and no board to keep me afloat. The first rule of surfing, never surf alone. Now I knew why!!

      I tried to swim in with the monster waves, but each time I got close to the beach the waves that had pushed me in sucked me back out to sea.

      Well Tim, I have to say that I thought that

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