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One and Only: The Untold Story of On the Road and LuAnne Henderson, the Woman Who Started Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady on Their Journey
One and Only: The Untold Story of On the Road and LuAnne Henderson, the Woman Who Started Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady on Their Journey
One and Only: The Untold Story of On the Road and LuAnne Henderson, the Woman Who Started Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady on Their Journey
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One and Only: The Untold Story of On the Road and LuAnne Henderson, the Woman Who Started Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady on Their Journey

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Beloved by both Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady, Lu Anne Henderson has never told her story. Lu Anne was a beautiful 15-year-old girl in Denver in 1945 when she met Neal, a fast-talking hurricane of male sexuality. The two married, and soon they were hanging out with a group of young would-be writers, including Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg. But Neal and Jack initially didn’t like each other. Lu Anne ended up loving them both, and she taught them how to love each other — giving Kerouac material for one of the seminal novels of the 20th century, On the Road. One and Only traces the immense struggles of Lu Anne’s life, from the split-up of her family during the Great Depression to the ravages of abusive men and a late-life heroin addiction. It shows how her life intertwined with Jack’s and Neal’s to the very end.
LanguageEnglish
PublisherViva Editions
Release dateApr 5, 2013
ISBN9781936740444
One and Only: The Untold Story of On the Road and LuAnne Henderson, the Woman Who Started Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady on Their Journey

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Rating: 3.8181818181818183 out of 5 stars
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  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    I received the audio unbridged version of the book for review.Scores of people have read the Beat masterpiece On The Road, and countless others have read the actual biographies of the 'saintly' heroes whose exploits fill the novels pages. Forgotten along the way was the female companion who went along, and played a pivotal role in the adventure. One And Only: The Untold Story of On The Road does just this. The story of Lu Anne Henderson as Mary Lou is one worthy of further exploration. The authors assert that Lu Anne was essentially the glue in which Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady became stuck. The book is full of surprising anecdotes about Lu Anne's recollection of the time she spent with both men. And is overall a great asset to the study of Beat Culture as a whole.The book itself only briefly talks about Lu Anne during the time periods outside of her involvement with the world Beat Generation....from the portion of the book written be her daughter you glean more information about her life as an independent woman and mother. Lu Anne seems to be a fascinating subject for biography. Her recollection of her experiences with Carolyn Cassady and how her perception and personal truth is very different that how she has been portrayed in Carolyn's writings about the same events. Lu Anne loved unabashedly and this came through in the reading, she grabbed onto the experiences of life and road them to their ultimate conclusion.....The most amazing story she tells in my opinion is very simple. It is the story of two drunken souls dancing. When she dances with Jack Kerouac he became in her words as Nijinsky lifting the teenage Lu Anne in a ballet of their own creation. I really connected to this passage because everyone has had the experience with someone where they feel so connected , yet out of place and time with every other person around. Conversely is you haven't had this experience it is one worth striving for.If you like the Beat Generation you should read this one....
  • Rating: 3 out of 5 stars
    3/5
    Interesting for those who are deep into the Kerouac/Beat mythology but less so for those who do not have that interest or context
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    Since audio books are a very small part of my "reading," I was stunned to discover I had requested this book. That said, the readers were good, although I did grow tired of Luann's patter by the fourth CD. I also was able to see the pictures (and they are great, but there are a lot of Luann as a child and her background is not really covered in the book). If there were opening chapters to the book on that first disk, I never got them to open. This is a genuine long song to the "Beat Generation" and, as such, it is worth the read (or the hearing).
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    An interesting tale told in a unique voice that demonstrates the often deliberate cattiness characteristic of women fighting with a rival. However, like most biographies, only people interested in these players would truly enjoy these stories, hence only 4 stars. If you have a love for Kerouac, the Beats or American cultural history this is a great book -- but without knowing anything about Kerouac or the Beats one would get lost in the numerous references. I find the segment written by Lu Anne's daughter to be a better companion piece to Jack Kerouac's novel "On the Road." While we do get a better understanding of the bond between Cassady and Lu Anne what I found most intriguing was the unrequited love story of Jack and Lu Anne; too bad that story had never been written. I would like to know the backstory of this book as to why it took so long to get this into print after the interviews... was it to capitalize on the forthcoming movie? (While interesting and I can understand the reasoning I found the plugs for the forthcoming movie tiresome -- except in the Santos' interview) Or what produced the lawsuit between the author and the University?
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    This book IS an untold story. There are people arguing with that statement, because we have other viewpoints of the trip and the book and the people involved. Lu Anne's story, however, was untold up to this point, and it's nice to finally get to know her. This book does fill a gap in the ever-popular and crowded beat genre.The interview material from which this book sprang has been well-edited. It still feels like real, spoken words but is easy to read (unlike most transcribed interviews).The audio edition is truly wonderful. Due to being disabled the bulk of my reading is done through audio books, and I know just how many mediocre and truly dreadful readers there are. Vanessa Hart reads this SO wonderfully. She truly makes it sound like you're listening to her personal story. Stephen Bowlby also does a good job, but his job on this book was much easier and more standard, so it shines less brightly than Hart's work. I couldn't view the file of photos either, but I don't really care about that.
  • Rating: 2 out of 5 stars
    2/5
    This book-on-CD was disappointing to me. While it was kind of interesting to get a fresh viewpoint of the whole Beat scene, I found myself growing bored with the constant repetition in Lu Anne's narrative. I think the author failed her in this endeavor. Although I understand that he wanted to stay true to Lu Anne's "voice", I still feel Nicosia should have done some serious editing to make it more listenable. In the end, I just wanted to read some Kerouac instead.
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    Saddest damn book I ever read. Tears were rolling down my face at the end at the sad fate of Jack and Neal -- Jack turned into a hopeless alcoholic calloused over and trying to feel nothing inside, and Neal transformed from American legendary living hero into Ken Kesey's dancing bear.

    And it was caused by Jack's genius. That the horrible irony. The better he wrote,the worse their fates would get.

    The book is based a long interview with LuAnn Henderson (the Mary Lou of the story)and remains true to its origins. It's spoken in her voice. She skips around and doubles back to thoughts she's already had like real people do. And she's retelling a story On The Road readers already know very well, but from her woman's perspective.

    LuAnn went through four husbands herself, became a junkie for a while but cleaned up, ran nightclubs in North Beach San Francisco, had a whole big life of her own. She maintained a friendship with them both to the end and tells the tragic story of their decline as she saw it. Her daughter writes the last part.

    It's just a heartbreaking book, but essential to anyone who has been affected by Kerouac's writing.
    I'm still sort of stunned this morning. But it's a good stunned.
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    Reading this after finishing a re-read of On the Road was one of the best decisions I ever made in my reading life.

    Reading On the Road one can't help but thinking: What was going through that girl's head? What drew her in to that crazy, high strung crowd?...Well, this book has the answer. In the words of Lu Anne Henderson "Marylou" herself.

    Lu Anne was fierce, she was larger than life, and getting to understand her was absolutely wonderful. As a young, relatively-sheltered, woman I can't help but to marvel at her independence and zest for life. She wanted to live and to love and that's what she did, she went for it! How many of us can say the same?

    Absolutely loved reading the bits about shooting the movie and all the many wonderful people that were involved in it. I have high hopes that it will acurately portray the journey that inspired generations.
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    One and Only is the essential, long-missing tale of the young woman who captured the hearts of Cassady and Kerouac when they first got on the road. Though the bulk of the book is an edited transcription of a seven-hour taped interview Henderson offered Nicosia, Nicosia does offer his unique insights into the psyches and emotions of the key players of the Beat Generation. It’s a must-read for any Beat fan.
  • Rating: 3 out of 5 stars
    3/5
    First, the format: I had a few technical problems with the audio format for this book. For some reason I was unable to view the file of photos it was supposed to contain. Additionally, the last CD had something wrong with it, making it impossible for me to hear the end of the book, (not to mention the fact that one of the readers' voices was hard for me to listen to.) Obviously these things made my experience with this book more frustrating than it could have been. I ended up driving to a bookstore, finding a print copy of the book, and looking at the photos and reading the last part of the book there.Second, the content: Being largely unexperienced with (but wishing to become more educated about) the Beat generation, I decided to familiarize myself with the story before reading On the Road, thereby making One and Only my introduction to Kerouac and Cassady. Such a situation hardly makes me the target audience for the book, although I did enjoy the familiar tone. While much of the book was captivating, it got repetitive often enough to be irritating as well. Vacillating between interest and boredom, I ended up being glad the book wasn't very long, albeit simultaneously happy for the ease in which the information was delivered. It was almost more exposé than memoir, more rebuttal than biography, but I'm happy to have listened to the book and be that much more familiar with the people involved.
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    Gerald Nicosia has been down this road before. He's authored a few books about Kerouac, often filling them with flowery prose.His contribution to this biography is no different.In 1978, he visited Lu Anne Henderson in order to tape record an interview with her. Thirty years later, Nicosia has realized the importance of the interview, and HighBridge Publishers have released the results as an audio book, giving a voice (as read by Vanessa Hart) to the girl who went on the road with Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady.For his part, Nicosia does what is expected. He adores his subject and places her as the heroine of the story. By reflecting on Henderson's role in cultural history, Nicosia asserts that she was a begetter of the Beat Generation due to her unique link between the two beat icons.Nicosia's research of Henderson's life after her famous road trip is quite thorough, but occasionally he punctuates it with some tawdry language, thus giving her personality an underlying tone of the Madonna/Whore complex and making his observations of her and Cassady's unconventional lifestyle read like a cheap sex-exposé.What keeps you listening is the interview itself, which reveals Henderson's powers of observation. She treats us to a casual sit down, reminiscing about her first hand experiences mentioned in On the Road and John Clellon Holmes' Go.While harking back to her days of frantic youth, her keen insight expands upon the public personas of the characters found in most beat books, making this a nice companion piece to them. She also speaks of the aftermath following the publication of Kerouac's book. Hers is a heartbreaking tale of two men whose lives (his and Cassady's) were intertwined due to their shared quest for a pure life and the dream of becoming writers.According to Henderson, a dramatic change occurred in both men after being dubbed cultural icons of the Beat Generation. Such a burden chipped away at their emotional strength, and one could argue contributed to their own demise.It's when I hear these very personal, and intuitive, insights that I am thankful that Lu Anne Henderson took the time to share her past, letting us in for quite a ride.
  • Rating: 3 out of 5 stars
    3/5
    I received this audio book and my husband grabbed it for a road trip to North Dakota. He liked her but didn't know why. Still doesn't !What I found was that Lu Anne opened my eyes to a generation of change I was unaware of. Now I want to learn more. Women of her generation had little options. Virgin or Whore. It was as if she just went where the next door opened. I was angry at her and frustrated by her actions, she was a child and seemed to remain one though out her life. I finally found compassion for her, through her daughter, at the end of her life. I am still mad at her...I wanted her to be more.

    1 person found this helpful

Book preview

One and Only - Gerald Nicosia

001001

Table of Contents

Title Page

Praise

Dedication

Acknowledgments

Preface

Introduction

NOTE TO THE TRANSCRIPTION

Interview with Lu Anne

PART ONE

PART TWO

PART THREE

PART FOUR

PART FIVE

PART SIX

Lu Anne’s Role in Beat History / Cultural History

Al Hinkle’s Story

Letter to Neal

A Daughter’s Recollection

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Copyright Page

ADVANCE PRAISE FOR ONE AND ONLY

"One and Only is essential reading for anyone wishing to get the full picture of the Beat Generation. Lu Anne Henderson was Neal Cassady’s lifelong love and was responsible for the friendship with Kerouac that gave us On the Road. Gerald Nicosia was always a loyal advocate of the women of the Beat Generation, and his remarkable interview with Lu Anne fills in an enormous gap in the story. It shows the vulnerability and insecurities of the main characters, and reveals the chaos of their emotional lives so that Kerouac and company finally emerge as real people! A great book."

—Barry Miles, author of Jack Kerouac: King of the Beats

"Gerald Nicosia is Kerouac’s best biographer. Critics unanimously praised Memory Babe for its honesty, its broad, deep research, its narrative style, and its respect for and understanding of Jack Kerouac. Now he gives us a different kind of book in One and Only. I am fascinated by characters in fiction who live outside of the book and confront us in real life. Nicosia found Lu Anne Henderson and listened to her voice with great care. He’s written the context, made room so that she can tell her truth about On the Road. We go again but differently on that mythic road with Jack and Neal."

—Maxine Hong Kingston, author of The Woman Warrior

"One and Only is an ongoing chapter in the riveting Beat saga, chronicling another life and its poignant hopes and fears. An unsung teen-heroine of the time, Lu Anne Henderson, the young woman on whom the character ‘Marylou’ in On the Road is based, finally has her say. The book is an intimate and revealing portrait in the annals of American belletristic and real-life memory."

—Anne Waldman, author of Beats at Naropa and co-founder of

The Jack Kerouac School of Disembodied Poetics, Naropa University

"Gerald Nicosia performs a fascinating feat of balance with One and Only. While preserving his admiration for Jack Kerouac’s writing, he explores—with the collaboration of Anne Marie Santos and the preserved words of Lu Anne Henderson—the faults of character which contribute to an ambiguous cult status for Jack Kerouac and his beau ideal, Neal Cassady. The book is a most valuable addition to Kerouaciana and the legend of Neal Cassady. It also gives Lu Anne a place she deserves, and has not gotten from others."

—Herbert Gold, author of Bohemia

"It takes a Zen-like skill to tightrope-walk the 60 years of complexity and rumor that lay across Beat legends Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady. Gerald Nicosia effortlessly performs the feat using his interviews with Cassady’s first wife, Lu Anne, as his point of entry. Nicosia has a historian’s vision that generously accommodates the ambivalences and Rashomon quality of memory. With a breezy and genuine beatitude, Nicosia renders the pre-On the Road Beat world with an admiration that doesn’t discount its occasional irony and fraud. One and Only is a book of masterful craft subversively camouflaged as coolly minimal in which the sophisticated tricks of the trade of fiction are used to tell a real story."

—Kate Braverman, author of

Lithium for Medea, Palm Latitudes, and Squandering the Blue

"This is the missing back-story of the back-story of On the Road, the mysterious missing woman a lot of us sensed was there but invisible and silent. Until now. Nicosia has given her voice and made her visible, and she’s extraordinary. No wonder both Kerouac and Cassady loved her."

—Russell Banks, author of Cloudsplitter

"Gerald Nicosia has done it again! He just keeps filling in the pieces of the Beat era for us. One and Only fleshes out the beginnings of On the Road and makes it fuller and more interesting. Lu Anne was certainly a force to be reckoned with. Her lust for life and fullness of being and generosity of spirit show through only too clearly. Her vital North Beach career, her mothering ability, her recovery from heroin addiction, her many marriages, her long clandestine affair with Neal, and her own longevity speak well for her love affair with life as well as with Neal. And her demand for a ‘broad margin to her life,’ showing she had ‘as much right to go through every open door as a man had,’ will strike many women as apt in their own lives. By the 60s, a number of us followed her. I read One and Only from cover to cover in one day, and Lu Anne’s presence hovers with me still."

—Joanna McClure, original Beat poet, author of Extended Love Poem

"I read One and Only straight through and loved it, and loved the energy that was put into it. Lu Anne, much ignored by most of the biographers except Nicosia, finally comes across as a vital part of the Beat Generation. His new book is an informative and moving portrait of a girl who was really a lady, and lets us see once again how strong was the influence of womanhood on the major Beats, both negative and positive. One and Only is must reading and fills in many gaps. It will become an essential part of the Beat canon."

—Jerry Kamstra, original Beat poet, author of The Frisco Kid

"Gerry Nicosia is to the Beat Generation what Alan Lomax was to the history of the blues, the voice-catcher of his generation. In One and Only, written in collaboration with Anne Marie Santos, Nicosia reveals the story behind the story of the great American epic, On the Road, which is to say he uncovers one of its deeply buried secrets. Every myth has one, and the great unknown force that brought Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady together is revealed here for the first time in the vivacious voice of the vixen Lu Anne Henderson. Reading her story is like riding with her in the backseat on one of those long, bluesy romps across the great heartland. Go, go, go..."

—Phil Cousineau, author of Wordcatcher and The Book of Roads

"The voice of Lu Anne Henderson rises up off the page in this tender yet psychologically acute memoir, transcribed by Gerald Nicosia from tapes he made thirty years ago. Henderson played a crucial, inspirational part in the lives of Cassady and Kerouac, and the true circumstances of their complex relationship are revealed here for the first time. One and Only also shows the poverty and chaos and sometimes the sheer scariness of the lives of the Beats. Above all, the book shows the vulnerability and lack of self-esteem, the confusion and jealousy, which lay behind Cassady and Kerouac’s machismo. Henderson’s crucial insight is that Cassady and Kerouac, despite their profound friendship, were ‘totally unaware of the other one’s real feelings,’ a situation which only got worse when they became cultural icons. This new book by Nicosia is an invaluable contribution to Beat history."

—Ian MacFadyen, editor of Naked Lunch at 50: Anniversary Essays

"What a great and important find: Lu Anne Henderson, aka Marylou of On the Road. Neglected by most of the scholarship, she put Jack and Neal together, is at the core of the movement that changed history, both literary and cultural history. But only Eastern establishment scholars and male-identified fans could be stunned by her. For Westerners, childhood was full of such women—the mothers we grew from. Henderson’s authenticity is no surprise—is relief, joy, and truth. We owe thanks to Gerald Nicosia for the interestingly-crafted One and Only, a sweet book and a delightful, beautiful story that can never again be ignored."

—Sharon Doubiago, author of Love on the Streets

"In One and Only, Gerald Nicosia is a man burning with a story to tell like no other told before: the true story of the pre-legendary men and women upon whom the classic postwar novel On the Road’s characters were modeled. Nicosia’s sturdily edited portrait of Lu Anne Henderson from lengthy taped interviews and his dramatic and accurate narration of Lu Anne’s life amongst the ur-Beats and thereafter, with the help of her daughter Anne Santos, bring to light as never before the human dimensions of those lives before they were iconic. Lu Anne’s life was not about Neal Cassady or Kerouac or any of them; her story is her humanity. Now, with Gerald Nicosia’s One and Only, a master of living Beat history has brought to life for the first time a ‘Beat woman’ who was a woman, first of all."

—James Grauerholz, editor of

Word Virus: The William S. Burroughs Reader

"Just as the Beats were the missing link between the bohemians and the hippies, so was lovely Lu Anne the missing link between Cassady and Kerouac. In this book, she reveals how they played the roles that were expected of them, and then expected by themselves, until finally their roles began to play them. Gerald Nicosia provides a backstage pass to a unique era of foibles and follies that range from poignant to preposterous, so that One and Only does indeed live up to its name."

—Paul Krassner, author of Confessions of a Raving,

Unconfined Nut : Misadventures in the Counterculture

"I always sensed Lu Anne was Neal’s real sweetheart. He always had a special look on his face when he mouthed her name. Having been an intimate of major players in that generation, I am drawn to anecdotal, primary narratives like One and Only. For me, they’re more interesting than the fictions like On the Road. One and Only reveals a good deal about the gene pool in that fabulous era. In Lu Anne’s life, as in the larger culture, cool changed from hep to hip. This book reveals the spark, in flesh, of another holder of the flame."

—Charles Plymell, author of

The Last of the Moccasins and friend of Neal Cassady

"One and Only is an essential addition and corrective to the masculine locus of Beat Generation history. Lu Anne Henderson was a witness and participant in the legendary road trips and saw Neal Cassady, Kerouac, Ginsberg, and Burroughs in a clear-headed light. Nicosia’s reclamation of her centrality to that experience is revelatory. Her testimony captures her complicated involvement with these men with clarity, compassion, and wise humor. This book is a necessary revelation of the female experience in postwar United States, not to mention the incredible story and insights into the times covered by On the Road and also the period afterward."

—David Meltzer, original Beat poet, author of

San Francisco Beats: Talking with the Poets

"There have always been great women behind the important men of our collective literary existence. Lu Anne Henderson (Cassady) was the apocalyptic spark behind the rowdy duo of Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady. According to the new book One and Only by Gerald Nicosia, a vital addition to the historical archives of Beat consciousness, Neal and Jack didn’t get along with each other before Lu Anne connected them. Nicosia, one of our most important Beat chroniclers, here delves into places other researchers have left untouched. One and Only exposes the liveliness and magnetic charms of a beautiful woman with a beautiful soul, who led a fascinating yet problematic life."

—Tony Rodriguez, author of When I Followed the Elephant

"In One and Only, Gerald Nicosia treats Jack Kerouac with the respect he has always shown for this great writer, just as he has always been a friend and supporter of the real Kerouac family. It’s an extremely well-done book, in which we see the On the Road story through other people’s eyes, in a way that is sometimes painful and sometimes humorous, but always definitely real. In Jack Kerouac’s own spirit, Nicosia gives us the full, no-holds-barred telling of a story we only heard parts of before."

—Paul Blake, Jr., Jack Kerouac’s nephew

To my very own Doris Day

Mother, I love you. Que sera, sera.

—A.M.S.

To Sylvia Anna Fremer Nicosia,

known as San,

and all the mothers who try to make

a better world for their children

—G.N.

We’ll be together, you are my one and only wife.

—Neal Cassady to Lu Anne Cassady

002

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Of course, my first thanks go out to the spirit of Lu Anne Henderson Cassady. If she hadn’t granted me those two interviews, neither this book nor a whole lot else would exist. Thanks of course to Larry Lee, too, another angel who got his wings the hard way. It was Larry’s act of kindness in sharing Lu Anne’s whereabouts with me that opened the door for me with her in the first place. A big thanks to Walter Salles and the entire cast and crew of the movie On the Road. If Walter hadn’t asked me to be part of the initial work on that film, I would not have listened again to that full seven-and-a-half-hour taped interview, which had been locked up in an archive in Lowell, Massachusetts, for many years, beyond everyone’s reach. My work as an advisor to Walter and other crew members, especially Kristen Stewart, Sam Riley, and Garrett Hedlund, helped me focus my own thoughts about Lu Anne.

There is no way I can adequately express my enormous debt to Lu Anne’s daughter, Anne Marie Santos, who allowed me to put my brief experience with Lu Anne in a far larger and longer context. By the same token, I have to thank Al Hinkle and his daughter Dawn Hinkle Davis for their great generosity in sharing stories that added vastly to the richness of the narrative. My editor and publisher, Brenda Knight, was a sine qua non of this project, as were the core staff members of Cleis Press and its co-publishers Felice Newman and Frédérique Delacoste. Thanks to so many others who contributed photographs and other key pieces of the puzzle—including, especially, photographers Jerry Bauer, James Oliver Mitchell, and Larry Keenan, Jr., who by themselves and on little funding documented a wide swath of America’s germinating counterculture. Thanks to my family, of course—Ellen, Amy, and Peter—for support and patience during my work on the book. And thanks most of all to the angelic spirits of Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady—not for getting us all into this mess, but for showing us the beginning of a way out. Pax vobiscum to that whole ragtag bunch called the Beat Generation.

—G.N.

003

First thank-you goes to Gerry Nicosia for reaching out to me and guiding me through this amazing experience.

To Brenda Knight and all those at Cleis Press and Viva Editions who believed in this project.

Thank you to my love Reuben (TT&F), to Katie, Erin, Mason, and Mia, without whom I could not exist.

To all the women in my family who came before, onward we go.

Most importantly, to Mother and my daughter Melissa, the bravest and most loving of women, and I was the lucky one loved by both. Thank you.

—Annie Ree

PREFACE TO THE PAPERBACK EDITION

INSIDE ON THE ROAD

As I enter the bar of the St.-Sulpice Hôtel in Montreal I feel a very tall presence behind me and a pair of hands grabbing my shoulders.

Would you like to join us? Sam Riley asks. He leads me behind an opaque vinyl drape—ostensibly being used to keep the summer air conditioning in the bar area, which opens into the garden, but the actors from On the Road are using it to keep themselves hidden from the other people in the bar. Heretofore, I have not spent a lot of time with actors, at least in public places, but I’m quickly learning that being spotted is about as happy an occurrence for an actor as it is for the fox being chased by a pack of hounds.

As I sit down next to Sam, I notice the tabletop in front of him and Garrett Hedlund is filled with empty glasses—apparently, the boys have been doing some serious drinking. Garrett, who loves to talk anywhere and everywhere, is telling a story to Kristen Stewart, who sits across the aisle. Looking almost anorexically thin, she’s dressed in a black T-shirt, tight black jeans, and her nails are painted black too—but her thick hair is uncharacteristically bright, a sort of brassy, orangish gold. On her thumb is a silver ring shaped like a snake.

Gerald Nicosia and Kristen Stewart at the private party after the premiere of On the Road in Cannes, May 23, 2012. (Photo by Noémie Sornet.)

004

Garrett’s story is about one of his jobs as a teenager on his father’s farm in Minnesota: killing gophers. Standing up—like Sam, he’s well over six feet—he demonstrates how he would ram a post down section after section of their tunnel, till he finally cornered the unlucky gopher in the back of its hole. Then he shows how he would force it into his trap and break its neck. The last step was cutting off its front paws.

The type of gopher the state paid two dollars for killing had paws like mitts, he explains, so we’d save up bags of gopher paws in our meat freezer, till it was time to take them into the county to get paid.

It was clear he was trying to gross out Kristen—it might even have been a form of flirting—but it wasn’t working. I learned very quickly that nothing—no tale, however horrible—could faze her. It was as if she expected darkness everywhere, and was not surprised when it appeared in her life.

It was July of 2010, and I had been brought to Montreal by Walter Salles and his producers at MK2, the French company that finally bankrolled the movie of On the Road after every American company had turned it down. My job was to be the first drill instructor at Beat Boot Camp, which was Walter’s idea as a way to drag his twenty-something actors back about five decades in less than two weeks. During the day, in a big, rehabbed loft in the area of Montreal known as the Plateau, I told stories, played tapes and showed films, and answered the hundreds of questions put to me, sometimes one-on-one, and sometimes at a round table with more than 30 people gathered around me. But the real learning on both sides—mine and theirs—I discovered, took place when we just hung out at places like the St.-Sulpice bar.

Jack Kerouac liked to tell people that On the Road had been written in three weeks, but we now know that it was the product of almost a decade of multiple, quite different drafts, multiple revisions, and sometimes last-minute inserts that would change the whole tenor of the story—as it moved from complete fiction to near-complete realism and then back to a kind of poetic, visionary semi-fiction. In a similar way, Walter Salles’s On the Road was the product of a complex, many-layered process which took over seven years to complete. But the whole process of getting the book on film had actually taken more like four decades.

Back in 1975, the writer Martin Duberman had approached Stella Sampas, Jack Kerouac’s widow, to option the dramatic rights to Kerouac’s works, including On the Road. (We now know that Stella had obtained those rights through a forged will, but that’s a story for another time.) Duberman used the rights to publish a play he’d written called Visions of Kerouac in 1977. The next year, he went back to Stella to specifically option the movie rights to On the Road. Between 1978 and 1980, something went wrong between Duberman and Stella. It’s only my guess, but she probably didn’t like the slant of his play, which posited that Jack and Neal were gay lovers. In 1980, Francis Ford Coppola’s company American Zoetrope bought out Duberman’s contract with Stella, giving Coppola the right to make a movie of On the Road. Then a whole new saga began.

Over a period of 25 years, Coppola hired (and paid) a long succession of writers to try their hand at writing a film script of On the Road—the list included such distinguished names as Michael Herr, Russell Banks, Barry Gifford, and even his own son Roman Coppola. Every script that was turned in landed quickly in the garbage can, and by 2004 Coppola had pretty much concluded that On the Road could not be adapted to film. Then in January 2004, Coppola saw Walter Salles’s award-winning movie The Motorcycle Diaries at the Sundance Film Festival, where it received a standing ovation. Rumor has it that Coppola said something like, If he can do motorcycles, he can do cars too. Soon afterward, Coppola turned over the movie rights to On

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