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    A Guide to Making Wooden Furniture and Furnishings for the Kitchen
    A Guide to Making Wooden Furniture and Furnishings for the Kitchen
    A Guide to Making Wooden Furniture and Furnishings for the Kitchen
    Ebook122 pages59 minutes

    A Guide to Making Wooden Furniture and Furnishings for the Kitchen

    By Anon Anon

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    About this ebook

    This book contains a comprehensive guide to hand-making wooden furniture for your kitchen. Written in an easy-to-digest manner and coupled with a plethora of detailed diagrams, this guide is ideal for the beginner and will greatly appeal to anyone with an interest in creating their own kitchen furnishings from scratch. The chapters of this text include: 'Sectional Kitchen Fitment', 'The Modern Kitchen Cabinet', 'Kitchen Table-Cupboard', 'Cabinet Refrigerator', 'An Invaluable Mobile Larder', 'Scullery Sink Fitment', 'Fitting a Service Hatch', 'Breakfast Alcove', 'Modern Style Scullery Rack', 'Plate-Draining Rack', 'Modern Poultry Equipment', 'Fold-Away Ironing Board', 'Trousers Press With Sliding Action', and many more. We have chosen this text for modern republication due to its instructional value, and we are proud to republish it now complete with a new introduction on making and restoring furniture.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 6, 2016
    ISBN9781473357976
    A Guide to Making Wooden Furniture and Furnishings for the Kitchen

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      Book preview

      A Guide to Making Wooden Furniture and Furnishings for the Kitchen - Anon Anon

      SECTIONAL

      KITCHEN FITMENT

      This kitchen fitment has been designed as a composite whole to fit an existing wall space. As, however, individual requirements differ considerably, a unit system has been adopted. The construction has been standardised throughout to allow for easy modification

      This fitment was designed by Ernest Joyce for the manufacturers of Royal Hardboard

      FIG. I. THE FOUR SECTIONS ASSEMBLED TO FORM A SINGLE UNIT

      ALL main parts consist essentially of frames made from 1 3/8 in. by 7/8 in. stuff put together with halved joints, and with hardboard panels glued and nailed to the outside. As the cupboards are intended to be painted, the carcase material can be good quality deal or one of the African soft hardwoods. No backs have been provided, as it is assumed that the cupboards will be screwed direct to the wall, but hardboard could be used for these with advantage. For cleanliness the cupboards could also be lined throughout.

      If the fitment is planned as a whole, make the bottom floor unit in one length, and build up stage by stage; otherwise, divide the floor as necessary. This unit has a recessed toe rail 3 1/2 in. high, set back 2 in. from the face only. It is securely nailed or screwed to side rails and centre bearers, and covered with blockboard or 7/8 in. T. and G. flooring. Shallow housings 1/4 in. deep are cut into the front edge of the floorboard, whilst the 7/8 in. front frame posts are also lapped 1/4 in. so that they will line up flush (Fig. 3).

      In all cases the upright members such as (A, O, Fig. 3) are shorter than the front frames by the thickness of the floors. They are screwed down to the floors and through to the front frames from the inside. The screws fixing the front frame posts to the floor must however be entered from the face, and chromium-plated screws may well be used for these.

      Broom Cupboard.—The over-all size of this cupboard is 6 ft. 3 5/8 in. high above floor level, 19 in. wide and 19 in. deep, with a small storage cupboard at about the 4 ft. 9 in. height. Two side frames are stiffened with intermediate rails (R), and back bearers are added (as F, top cupboard). The front frame consists of two posts (S), top rail (TT) and intermediate shelf rail (UU). It is screwed to the side frames from inside. The cupboard cheeks are then sheeted with hardboard, glued and pinned to the frames. Run this hardboard flush with the top and wall edge, and 3/16 in. short of the front frame edge and floor bottom. Bevel the hardboard edges 1/8 in. all round to give a neat appearance.

      The two doors are framed up as in Fig. 4 (F), using half laps at the corners and corrugated fasteners to the middle rails. They are sheeted with hardboard on the outside face, kept back 3/16 in. all round and bevelled as for the cheeks. Hang the doors with 2-in. brass butts, with a double ball catch placed centrally for the larger door, and a single ball catch for the smaller door. Fit either bar handles or plain turned knobs in wood or plastic. Add a 3/4-in. thick shelf at the desired height, notching it round the angle posts. This will form a stop for the upper door, but small stops must be planted on for the larger door.

      FIG. 2. FRONT ELEVATION

      The four sections which comprise the fitment are A, dead storage unit; B, wall cupboard; C, broom cupboard; D, dresser unit

      FIG. 3. DETAIL OF FRAME CONSTRUCTION

      Dresser Unit.—If this unit is to be fixed alongside the broom cupboard allowance must be made for the hardboard cheek to the latter. Set the left-hand sectional frame (T) 1/8 in. over to the right, and cut back the hardboard cheek so that it fits behind the front frame post (X) of the dresser unit. Do not forget to set in the left-hand drawer sides 1/8 in. to allow for the offset in the sectional frames, otherwise the drawers will not fit. The drawer runners are 2 3/8 in. wide, housed 5/8 in. into the uprights of the sectional frames. Care should be taken to see that they line up flush with the front drawer

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