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    A Book of Vintage Designs and Instructions for Making Furniture and Other Household Items - Containing Two Kitchen Tables, a Hanging Tool Chest, How to Make a Box Curb, a Lemonade Set Carrier and a Fretwork Letter Rack
    A Book of Vintage Designs and Instructions for Making Furniture and Other Household Items - Containing Two Kitchen Tables, a Hanging Tool Chest, How to Make a Box Curb, a Lemonade Set Carrier and a Fretwork Letter Rack
    A Book of Vintage Designs and Instructions for Making Furniture and Other Household Items - Containing Two Kitchen Tables, a Hanging Tool Chest, How to Make a Box Curb, a Lemonade Set Carrier and a Fretwork Letter Rack
    Ebook109 pages58 minutes

    A Book of Vintage Designs and Instructions for Making Furniture and Other Household Items - Containing Two Kitchen Tables, a Hanging Tool Chest, How to Make a Box Curb, a Lemonade Set Carrier and a Fretwork Letter Rack

    By Read Books Ltd.

    ()

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    About this ebook

    This book is a collection of homemade furniture and household accessories. It includes vintage designs and patterns for making kitchen tables, a hanging tool chest, a box curb and a lemonade set carrier.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 19, 2016
    ISBN9781473357433
    A Book of Vintage Designs and Instructions for Making Furniture and Other Household Items - Containing Two Kitchen Tables, a Hanging Tool Chest, How to Make a Box Curb, a Lemonade Set Carrier and a Fretwork Letter Rack

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      Book preview

      A Book of Vintage Designs and Instructions for Making Furniture and Other Household Items - Containing Two Kitchen Tables, a Hanging Tool Chest, How to Make a Box Curb, a Lemonade Set Carrier and a Fretwork Letter Rack - Read Books Ltd.

      TWO KITCHEN TABLES

      A popular type of table, using Hobbies turned legs No. 510. Simple to make and standing just 2ft. 6ins. high. Two styles are provided.

      IT is not always an easy task to purchase a table suited to one’s particular needs. For those with large kitchens, there is nothing to equal the familiar square table, but nowadays, small kitchenettes seem all the vogue, and this calls for a re-arrangement of design.

      Tables suitable for both old and modern kitchens are suggested in Fig. 1. Design A has a fixed top size of 3ft. 3ins. square, whilst that of B, has a similar size when open, but by means of a hinged flap, can be closed down to 3ft. 3ins. by 2ft.

      The legs, needless to say, are Hobbies pattern (No. 510). This is a good, sturdy leg, and has some pretention to period character, which is far more than can be said of some legs of tables seen in the local shops!

      The construction is quite simple and suitable for the veriest beginner. In regard to finish, it is suggested that the tops be left natural colour, but the legs and framework might be given a coat of Hobbies brown oak stain and then a couple of rubbers of polish to finish off.

      Construction

      Design A will be taken first, and sizes for setting out and the construction employed, will be found in Figs. 2 and 4 respectively. Assuming that the legs are at hand, the first thing to do is that of gauging and cutting mortices for the haunched tenons of the rails (B). The latter are set in off the face of the legs 1/4in., so allowance for this should be made when cutting the mortices.

      Use the brace and twist bit for boring out roughly, and then finish up with the chisel. The tenons should finish about 1 1/4ins. in length, whilst the haunched portions might be limited to 3/8in.

      A hint to beginners might be given at this point regarding the thicknesses of tenons. The latter bear definite relationship to the thickness of the rail upon which they are cut. The recognised practice is to make the tenon one-third, thus in our case, with the rails at 7/8in. thick, the tenons should be about 5/16in. As, however, there is plenty of stuff on the legs, they might be increased to 3/8in. or 7/16in. to stand up to hard usage.

      A cross rail (C) has been introduced to stiffen the framework and also act as a drawer stop. This rail is dovetailed down to the end rails and may be either single or double shouldered.

      Fig. 1—Design A with two drawers in the side.

      Design B—An alternative with drop side and a drawer at each end.

      Fixing is accomplished by means of pocket-screwing up through the rails, as suggested in Fig. 4. This is best carried out by cramping the top down to the framework with handscrews, boring up through the rails, slightly aslant, and then driving home the screws after cutting the rails away slightly to take the heads. The overhang of the top, all round, should finish about 2ins.

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