Tour of the Jungfrau Region: 10 days trekking in the Bernese Oberland
By Kev Reynolds
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About this ebook
A guidebook to walking the Tour of the Jungfrau Region between Schynige Platte and Wilderswil. Covering 111km (69 miles), this long-distance trek through Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland takes around 10 days and is suitable for trekkers with some Alpine experience.
The route is described clockwise in 10 stages, each between 12 and 32km (7–22 miles) in length. A number of high- and low-level route alternatives are included allowing you to select the itinerary that suits you.
- Sketch maps are included for each stage
- Detailed information on accommodation, refreshments and facilities along the route
- Advice on planning and preparation
- Highlights include views of the Wetterhorn and Eiger
Kev Reynolds
A lifelong passion for the countryside in general, and mountains in particular, drove Kev's desire to share his sense of wonder and delight in the natural world through his writing, guiding, photography and lecturing. Spending several months every year in various high-mountain regions researching guidebooks made him The Man with the World's Best Job. Kev enjoyed a fruitful partnership with Cicerone from the 1970s, producing 50 books, including guides to five major trekking regions of Nepal and to numerous routes in the European Alps and Pyrenees, as well as walking guides for Kent, Sussex and the Cotswolds. 'A Walk in the Clouds' is a collection of autobiographical short stories recording 50 years of mountain travel and adventures. He was also the contributing editor of the collaborative guide 'Trekking in the Himalaya' and Cicerone's celebratory anniversary compilation 'Fifty Years of Adventure'. A frequent contributor to outdoor magazines, Kev also wrote and illustrated brochures for national tourist authorities and travel companies. When not away in the mountains, Kev lived with his wife in a small cottage among what he called 'the Kentish Alps', with unrestricted walking country on the doorstep. But he also travelled throughout Britain during the winter months to share his love of the places he wrote about through a series of lectures. Sadly, Kev passed away in 2021. He will be remembered fondly by all who knew him and by many more he inspired through his writing and talks.
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Tour of the Jungfrau Region - Kev Reynolds
TOUR OF THE JUNGFRAU REGION
by Kev Reynolds
JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,
OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL
www.cicerone.co.uk
About the Author
Kev Reynolds, who created the Tour of the Jungfrau Region, first visited the Alps in 1960s, and has returned there almost every year since to walk, trek or climb, to lead mountain holidays, devise multi-day routes or to research a series of guidebooks covering the whole range. A freelance travel writer and lecturer, he has a long association with Cicerone Press, which began with his first guidebook Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees. Published in 1978, it has grown through many editions and is still in print. He has also written more than a dozen books on Europe’s premier mountain range, including 100 Hut Walks in the Alps 100 Hut Walks in the Alps, Walking in the Alps, The Swiss Alps and Trekking in the Alps, a series of trekking guides to Nepal, a memoir covering some of his Himalayan journeys (Abode of the Gods) and a collection of 75 autobiographical short stories and anecdotes harvested from 50 years of mountain activity (A Walk in the Clouds). Kev is a member of the Alpine Club, the Outdoor Writers’ & Photographers’ Guild, an honorary member of SELVA (Société d’Études de la Littérature de Voyage Anglophone), and the British Association of International Mountain Leaders (BAIML). After a lifetime’s activity, his enthusiasm for the countryside in general and mountains in particular remains undiminished, and during the winter months he regularly travels throughout Britain and abroad to share that enthusiasm through his lectures. Check him out at www.kevreynolds.co.uk.
Other Cicerone guides by the author
110 Hut Walks in the Alps
Abode of the Gods
A Walk in the Clouds
Alpine Pass Route
Alpine Points of View
Central Switzerland
Chamonix to Zermatt – the Walker’s Haute Route
Écrins National Park
The Bernese Oberland
The Cotswold Way
The North Downs Way
The Pyrenees
The South Downs Way
The Swiss Alps
Tour of Mont Blanc
Tour of the Oisans
Tour of the Vanoise
Trekking in the Alps
Trekking in the Himalaya
Trekking in the Silvretta and Rätikon Alps
Walking in Austria
Walking in Kent
Walking in Sussex
Walking in the Alps
Walking in the Valais
Walking in Ticino – Switzerland
Walks & Climbs in the Pyrenees
Walks in the Engadine – Switzerland
Walks in the South Downs National Park
© Kev Reynolds 2018
Third edition 2018
ISBN: 978 1 85284 864 4
Second edition 2009
First edition 2006
Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.
Acknowledgements
Trekking the Tour of the Jungfrau Region is an enriching experience, and daily highlights are numerous. Not least of these will be found in the huts, inns and berghotels in which your nights will be spent. Wherever my wife and I have stayed on the TJR we have received much kindness and warm hospitality, especially from Marc and Diane at The Alpenhof in Stechelberg, who make every visit a special occasion. Thanks, too, to Silvia Linder, whose friendship is an added bonus, and to Alan and Morna Whitlock, who trekked with us on our most recent tour. Once again their company added much to the experience.
My thanks to the many readers who shared their memories and recorded their appreciation of the route via email and letter, to the various office staff who supplied information and accommodation details, to the good folk at Switzerland Travel in London for generous assistance with travel, and once again I am grateful to Jonathan Williams, my friend and publisher, for channelling my enthusiasm for the route into this guide, to the rest of the Cicerone team for allowing me to benefit from their skills and talents – and, as ever, to Min for being with me every step of the way.
Updates to this Guide
While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/864/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, Cumbria LA9 7RL.
Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.
Front cover: With the Eiger and Kleine Scheidegg ahead, trekkers descend into Grindelwald’s valley (Photo credit: Joe Williams)
CONTENTS
Map/profile key
Mountain safety
Location map
Overview map
Preface to the Third Edition
INTRODUCTION
The route
Accommodation
Suggested itineraries
How to get there
When to go
Language
Notes for walkers
Equipment
Recommended maps
Safety in the mountains
Wildlife and alpine flowers
Using the guide
TOUR OF THE JUNGFRAU REGION
Part 1 Schynige Platte to Stechelberg
Stage 1 Schynige Platte to First
Stage 2 First to Hotel Wetterhorn
Alternative Stage 2 First to Hotel Wetterhorn via the Gleckstein Hut
Stage 3 Hotel Wetterhorn to Alpiglen
Alternative Stage 3 Hotel Wetterhorn to Berghaus Bäregg
Stage 4 Alpiglen to Kleine Scheidegg/Grindelwaldblick
Stage 5 Kleine Scheidegg/Grindelwaldblick to Stechelberg
Part 2 Stechelberg to Wilderswil
Stage 6 Stechelberg to Obersteinberg
Alternative Stage 6 Stechelberg to Obersteinberg (direct route)
Stage 7 Obersteinberg to the Rotstock Hut
Stage 8 Rotstock Hut to the Blumental
Stage 9 Blumental to the Suls-Lobhorn Hut
Stage 10 Suls-Lobhorn Hut to Wilderswil
APPENDIX A Useful addresses
APPENDIX B Accommodation directory
APPENDIX C Language primer
APPENDIX D Bibliography
As you near Pfingstegg, a backward glance shows the Wetterhorn to be a vast mountain of rock
PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION
Shortly after the first edition of this guide was published in 2006, I received an email from a highly experienced trek leader, who said: ‘I’m sure the TJR is destined to become one of the great walks of the world!’ That view has since been endorsed by countless other hill walkers who have followed in her footsteps.
Located in one of Europe’s finest mountain regions, the whole tour is a feast of scenic delights, while accommodation and refreshment stops along the way add much to the trekker’s experience.
I knew this long before the route was properly worked out, for since my first visit to the Jungfrau Region in the mid-1960s I’ve spent a great many weeks either selecting routes for guidebooks or leading walking holidays there, and loving every minute. Who wouldn’t? The mountains are second to none in visual drama, the meadows extravagant with alpine flowers, the wildlife plentiful. But every visit would reveal changes, either to the tourist infrastructure, or to the landscape itself. So chairlifts became gondolas, places to stay overnight increased in number, paths were rerouted as a result of a rockfall or spring flood, snowfields and glaciers shrank in size, and huge chunks or mountain and moraine collapsed – thanks to the effects of global warming. Previous editions of this guidebook reflected the landscape as it was during research, but I’m prepared to bet that before the fourth edition goes to print, there will be more changes to report.
None of these things detract from the delights of the Tour of the Jungfrau Region, and my wish is that when you’ve completed your tour, you will come to echo the words slightly misquoted from the top of the page, that the TJR is one of the great walks of the world!
May you enjoy every step, and greet each day as the gift it is.
Kev Reynolds, 2018
After crossing below the Laucherhorn a view shows the distant Lauterbrunnen Breithorn (Stage 1)
INTRODUCTION
The view from Schynige Platte is one of the finest in all the Alps, with the ice-crested wall of the Bernese Alps spread out for inspection as your attention is inevitably drawn to the south.
From left to right this wall comprises the Wellhorn, Wetterhorn, Bärglistock, Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn, Finsteraarhorn, Fiescherhorn, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, Grosshorn, Breithorn, Tschingelhorn, Gspal tenhorn, Blüemlisalp and Doldenhorn; as grand a collection of mountains as you could wish to lay eyes upon. Glaciers