Undaunted Curiosity: Boating America’S Coasts and Waterways Volume Ii New York City to Mississippi Via Canada

Contents

DEDICATION:

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

CHAPTER I

CHAPTER II

CHAPTER III

CHAPTER IV

CHAPTER V

CHAPTER VI

CHAPTER VII

CHAPTER VIII

CHAPTER IX

CHAPTER X

CHAPTER XI

CHAPTER XII

CHAPTER XIII

CHAPTER XIV

CHAPTER XV

CHAPTER XVI

CHAPTER XVII

CHAPTER XVIII

CHAPTER XIX

CHAPTER XX

CHAPTER XXI

CHAPTER XXII

CHAPTER XXIII

INDEX TO

APPENDICES A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H & I

APPENDIX A   Page A-1

APPENDIX B

APPENDIX C

BIBLIOGRAPHY

APPENDIX D

APPENDICES E. F. G. H & I

APPENDIX E

APPENDIX F

APPENDIX G

APPENDIX H

APPENDIX I

ENDNOTES

DEDICATION: 

To First Mate, Deck Hand, Co-Captain, Chef, Dish & Boat Washer, Tool Retriever, Hostess, Dog Walker, Social Secretary, Line Handler, Assistant Mechanic, Deputy Navigator, Lover, Soul Mate, and Joyous Sharer of Retirement:

PAMELA S. AYRES

She combined the attributes of Calypso and Penelope of Homer’s Odyssey and Iliad, as we conquered the American equivalents of Scylla, Charybdis and the Sirens of Odysseus during our personal 15 year boating American Odyssey.

And to THUNDER, who decorated our lives the first decade

And LIGHTNING, who learned boating on board, from puppyhood

THE REASON FOR BOATING: Lake Powell in November in 1986 Bayliner 2755

THE RESULT OF GETTING SERIOUSLY HOOKED ON BOATING: October, 1992

BIG TIME CRUISING-IN STYLE: June, 1998

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 

First and foremost, Pam. She not only morally supported me during the years of distilling this from our joint logs, but also, as on the 15-year cruise, was and remains my source of inspiration and mender of failing memory.

Don Olson, Esq., and Dick Taylor, both published authors and former professional compatriots. They encouraged me to put aside other writing projects and document this cruise of a lifetime. Although both wisely advised to make it brief and less of a journal, I couldn’t, so went ahead anyway. Both also opined that the thing was too unwieldy to be published. But I ignored them, now convinced that my business enterprise of writing may well turn into an expensive obsessive hobby. But I’m mightily trying for commercial success.

Terry Lussier, the Trafford computer guru who very pleasantly and helpfully worked me thru my computer ignorance to get this thing and its predecessor Volume I into publishable form. And told me it must be two volumes.

Eric Johnson, of my former company, MSI, whose computer expertise, applied gently to my computer illiteracy, made it possible to produce four books so far.

The Harmon Family, Senior, Junior, and Mater, of Port Angeles, Washington, all of whom attempted unobtrusively to provide us with some of their three generations of amazing accumulated store of world class boating knowledge.

Last, the numerous boaters, dockhands, technicians, marina-bound would & wannabes, and docktenders and locktenders encountered during 15 years of cruising. Most were wonderful, unwittingly contributing many tales related in these tomes. We never knew the names of those few who were not helpful. But all those mostly nameless aides are gratefully acknowledged and thanked.

THE INTENTION OF THIS BOOK:

This book is intended to be entertaining and instructional. Entertaining by providing fascinating, interesting scenic and historical highlights, and boater tales, gleaned from 15 years of literally almost circumnavigating North America and traversing the vast majority of its navigable waterways. Instructional to those interested in travel and boating. And informational, relating how to plan and execute cruises, both major and minor. Tidbits of information are inserted where they intersect with the entertaining, providing responses to situations encountered, enlightening, significant and humorous. The related tales mostly are amusing to hilarious, but they too can provide information and instruction. Primarily elucidation as to how relaxing, enjoyable, educational and magnificently satisfying and diverting travel by long range boat cruising is within North America.

SO READ ON—IT’S QUITE A STORY!!

VOLUME I can be secured at www.trafford.com/06-0611

NOTE FROM THE AUTHOR:

The information, descriptions, directions, data, maps, charts and the opinions contained in this book were gleaned from many sources, including much personal enroute examination and experience. However, several years have passed since visiting the various sites and attractions described herein. I, as others, also am subject to occasional memory lapses and unwitting utilization of poor source materials, and just plain bad note taking and confused memory. This is not a research tome, thus I neither guarantee the accuracy of the information herein nor take responsibility for such. Any errors or inaccuracies herein are unintentional, for which I apologize, and for any affronts taken.

THE START OF IT ALL: September 9, 1985

GOING BOATING IN STYLE: to Lake Mead from Ganesha Hills, California: November 1986

HAVING IT ALL WHEN BOATING: April, 1989

IN MARATHON FLORIDA: with dinghy in water and motorscooters on dock-January 16,1997

LEAVING NEW YORK: enroute to the East River and Long Island Sound-May 26,1998   

MONTAUK, NEW YORK: weathered in-June 2-5, 1998

GREENPORT, NY: a delightful spot inside a protected cove off Long Island Sound-June 1, 1998

LEAVING PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND: June 10,1998

FALL RIVER, MASSACHUSETTS: Battleship USS Massachusetts in background-June 11, 1998

GLOUCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS: Canal thru Cape Ann-June 27,1998

NORWICH, CONNECTICUT: Aquacar car passing Doug Out-July 17, 1998

ENTERING THE ERIE CANAL: August 19, 1998

CHAPTER I 

GENESIS OF THIS BOOK

This is an adventure book. But an adventure without either of fright or special effects. An adventure which a couple and their dog(s) enjoyed immensely. A recounting of the Cruise of a Lifetime. A boating journey of 26,000 miles by water, all within the confines of the territorial waters of America-the United States and Canada. Mostly within rivers, but all four coasts as well. A trip that started with the intent only to take weekends away from intense work requiring pressurized schedules, but which evolved into a monumental cruise encompassing thousands of miles of historic waterways, rivers, canals, lakes, and dams and locks. Truly, a Voyage of Discovery; the modern version without any of the discomforts, deprivations or anxieties of prior generations.

A Voyage Thru History. This was a literal voyage thru history-the history of two nations and their first and formative transportation system-coasts, rivers and lakes, and some really old canals. This saga encompasses four boats, scores of thousands of gallons of fuel, 683 stops, three years and eight months of water travel spread over 15 years at an average speed of around 10 miles per hour. That rate allowed for the massive taking of time literally to smell the roses. And to look, and to seek-out of pure UNDAUNTED CURIOSITY.

THE small GREAT LOOP

The Great Loop. Map 1 is the Great Loop of boating fame. This route also is referred to as The Great Circle. But the Loop has an Association. Many aspire to complete The Loop but few so accomplish. The voyage can begin anywhere on the route, for the way is well marked by the U.S. and Canadian Coast Guard. There are several possible route deviations, but all routes generally enjoy a minimum 9’ deep by 100’ wide navigation channel maintained by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, a canal authority, the Canadian Department of Transport, or Mother Nature with a few nudges from man.

The Really BIG Great Loop. This is the story of the almost literal circumnavigation of North America via the Really BIG Loop. But first, America’s smaller Great Loop needs to be discovered.

Were one to start in Chicago two Great Loop route decisions must be made immediately. First, the preferred initial direction is counterclockwise, thus mostly downstream. The next decision is dependent on the bridge clearance of the boat being utilized. The Basic Question: Can your boat clear the fixed Chicago River bridges? (See Appendix C and other cautions herein about the Chicago bridges situation.) If Yes, then thru the Loop is the scenic way. No sends you to the Cal-Sag Canal, just south of Chicago, circumventing Downtown and the Chicago Loop. Soon, these two waterways merge, leading to the Illinois River, thence southwestward to the Upper Mississippi River, then south to Cairo, Illinois where the Ohio River joins the Mississippi.

MAP 1

AMERICA’S GREAT LOOP WATERWAYS CRUISE (the small version)

Used with permission from Raven Cove Publishing and America’s Great Loop Cruiser’s Association (www.greatloop.com) P.O. Box 168, Greenback, TN 37742-0168 Join Today!

As can be seen from MAP 1, above, there are several alternate routings and numerous other rivers of significant size and scenery-all of which access AMERICA THE BEAUTIFUL.

Around the Great Loop. From that confluence it is a short trip up the Ohio River to access the Tennessee/Cumberland River system. The counterclockwise Loop then proceeds southeast thru TVA lakes and locks to the head of navigation of the Tennessee-Tombigbee (Tenn-Tom) Waterway.

The Tenn-Tom’s many locks and lakes, and hundreds of miles of scenic isolated waterways and channelized rivers lead directly south to Mobile. From there the East Gulf Intracoastal (EGICW) winds thru the coastal scenery of south Alabama and Florida’s panhandle to Carabelle. Just east of there the dredged waterway thru protective coastal marshes and islands disappears.

The EGICW is discontinuous from Carabelle (some say St. Marks) to Tarpon Springs, forcing a careful weather check at Carabelle (or Tarpon Springs if clockwise) prior to making the 180-mile open water crossing. Other than the jump across Hampton Roads, Virginia, and the Atlantic Coast of New Jersey, this is the only significant stretch of unprotected water on America’s Great Loop.

Florida’s Portion of the Great Loop. From Tarpon Springs to Ft. Myers the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) proceeds thru heavily populated canals and spectacular housing to and across Tampa Bay. Depending on water levels in the cross-Florida Caloosahatchee-Okeechobee Waterway, that route is usually taken. If drought dictates, around the tip of Florida is no big deal and preferred in winter and by those who want desolation and scenery. But check weather, for much of this tip-of-Florida route is relatively open water.

The Atlantic ICW varies from heavily developed to deep swamp isolation as it proceeds northward behind and thru the low country islands of Florida, Georgia, South Carolina and North Carolina. Then there is another decision.

Dismal Swamp or Coastal Route? Except during late summer droughts, the Dismal Swamp route is preferred for its isolation, treed tunnel effect and history. But the more populated and somewhat farther easterly coastal route is always available. Both emerge into Norfolk and, soon, Chesapeake Bay. That historic area eventually leads to the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal, then down the big and rapidly widening Delaware River to Cape May, NJ.

Although there is a New Jersey ICW, Congress has neglected it by not appropriating dredging monies, thus any vessel with a draft of more than about 24" effectively is denied access to the magnificent scenery and numerous resort and residential communities lying behind New Jersey’s Atlantic coast.

Into New York. Even were the NJ Intracoastal usable, a short run from Manasquan Inlet and around Sandy Hook into New York Harbor is required. Required is the wrong term. With a modicum of visibility, this is a mightily emotional patriotic entry. Gradually the NYC Brooklyn skyline emerges, then the national symbol-the Statue of Liberty-backed by Lower Manhattan’s skyscrapers escalate into view. This is the Great Loop spectacular!

The Big Apple. After NYC, the Hudson River beckons to Troy, above Albany. Here another route selection must be made-directly north to Montreal via the Hudson River/Lake Champlain route, or the Erie Canal [now the New York State Canal System] west. That decision also must be made due to bridgeclearances; both ways have several 15’ 6" fixed bridges. The Champlain Route has no alternative outlet, but the Erie Canal does. For the latter the Oswego Canal leads north into Lake Ontario from the Erie Canal near Syracuse.

Which Lake? The Champlain route leads into the St. Lawrence River, thence west upstream to Lake Ontario. The Erie Canal thru Buffalo ends in Lake Erie. The Oswego Canal outlet, as well as the St. Lawrence, both eventually lead to western Lake Ontario and the Welland Canal. That monumental history-laden route and its enormous ship locks lift the boater into Lake Erie.

Traveling Lake Erie’s length to and north in the Detroit River, across Lakes St. Clair and Huron, around Michigan’s thumb thru the Straits of Mackinac into Lake Michigan and south completes the Great Loop in Chicago. The place to land is Burnham Park Marina, sheltered by Soldier and Meigs Fields.

We chose the scenic route, circumnavigating Lake Ontario, then zig-zagg-ing the St. Lawrence east to Montreal, thence up the Ottawa River to the Canadian Capital. From there the historic and scenic Rideau Canal, Murray Canal and Trent-Severn Waterway take exploring boaters thru the majestic overwhelmingly gorgeous interior of Ontario. A spectacular sight indeed! Emerging into Georgian Bay of Lake Huron, we then hopped down the western coast of Ontario to Lake St. Clair and the northern suburbs of Detroit. Thus we missed Lake Erie, but regressed to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

Either way, the route here described gets one back to the point of beginning.

Where to Start? Obviously, the Great Loop can be picked up at any point on the map and described route, and done either clockwise or opposite. But completion of the full Loop is a daunting, unbelievably scenic, astoundingly historic and amazingly energizing and interesting journey.

THE REALLY BIG GREAT LOOP

Maps 1 & 2 show the route this book and its companion Volume I describe in sufficient detail such that one contemplating the journey can make an informed response to the basic question: Do we dothe usual GreatLoop; or the REALLY BIG one? And the Great Circle around America?

Cost. Expenses will be dealt with sparingly in this book, but the way we did it cost around $977,000 for the four boats and ancillary equipment, including dinghys. After selling all after use, the net capital cost was about $607,000.

More than 29,000 gallons of fuel was consumed. Then there were the slip rentals, winter storage charges, travel to and from the boat, insurance, guide books and charts by the box, periodic service and repairs as needed and, as the saying goes, a boat is a hole in the water into which you pour money. And we did pour. We did not chinch. We could and did enjoy; and mightily so! We immersed ourselves in history and joy. When we eventually retired from cruising we still are often asked: Did you tire of boating? Our emphatic and instantaneous response is Absolutely not! We found ourselves repeating waterways. It was time to get an RV and see what we had missed between the coasts and rivers. We loved cruising immensely!

Spread over 15 years operating expenses averaged about $50,000/year, with the early years less and later ones more. Thus the 15 year journey cost around $1.36 million. But it was done in first class style in home-like extremely comfortable vessels. We figured it as reward for two lives well spent. The entire voyage, or just the small Great Loop, could be done in a lesser boat for much less and far speedier, if desired. We chose comfort, commodious accommodations, history, leisurely sightseeing and scenery over speed and economy.

It wasn’t cheap, but it was a fabulous journey. And the enjoyment was priceless!

Table 1

SUMMARY OF THE AYRES’ CRUISE OF AMERICA

The above numbers are equivalent to a trip around the world; 103 days of engine time; 3½+ years of travel; averages of 46 locations/year, 10.44 miles/hour, 20 miles/day had we traveled every one of the 1,300 days utilized, and two days per location for considerable sightseeing, museum meandering, personal enjoyment and exploration. And the smelling of roses and enjoyment of history; and of AMERICA.

HOW AND IN WHAT IT ALL BEGAN—THE Source:

A NECESSARY SUBSCRIPTION FOR CRUISING BOATERS:

20 UNDAUNTED CURIOSITY-Boating America’s Coasts & Waterways-VOLUME II OTHER VIEWS OF WHAT IS AVAILABLE TO BOATERS:

THE HISTORIC CANALS: Just imagine what could have been had these been preserved. Only a few of those shown below remain.

A description and complete map of ALL the historic and current canals and waterways of North America is available in North America-Inland Waterways Map and Index, edited by David Edwards-May and published by Euromapping, 20 avenue de la Houille Blanche, 38170

Seyssinet, France or via www.worldcanals.com or e-mail at euromapping@wanadoo.fr

NOTE: VOLUME I OF THIS TWO VOLUME BOOK CAN BE PURCHASED AT:

WWW.TRAFFORD.COM/O6-0611

MAP 2

ANOTHER VERSION: THE GREAT CIRCLE ROUTE

The above essentially is the same as the Great Loop shown in Map 1. Why there are two versions I know not. But the journey is a magnificent and fulfilling Voyage of Discovery.

MAP 3

THE AYRES’ REALLY BIG GREAT LOOP

THIS FOLDOUT MAP IS LIGHTLY GLUED INTO THE INSIDE BACK COVER

OF THIS BOOK and

CAN BE REMOVED, CHERISHED AND ADMIRED BECAUSE:

THE MAP IS EXTRACTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLICATION

INLAND WATERWAYS MAP AND INDEX

NORTH AMERICA

THE MAP WAS DEVELOPED BY DAVID EDWARDSMAY AND IS PRINTED AND PROVIDED

FOR THIS BOOK BY EUROMAPPING ©2005

WHICH CAN BE PURCHASED AT

WWW.WORLDCANALS.COM or

EUROMAPPING

20 AVENUE DE LA HOUILLE BLANCHE

38170 SEYSSINET, FRANCE

email: euromapping@wanadoo.fr

THE MAP DRAMATICALLY ILLUSTRATES THE MAGNITUDE AND LOCATIONS OF THE

NORTH AMERICAN WATERWAYS SYSTEM, BOTH AS IT PRESENTLY EXISTS AND AS IT

HISTORICALLY WAS CREATED, BUT GRADUALLY ABANDONED IN GREAT PART.

EACH SPECIFIC WATERWAY, BOTH PRESENT AND HISTORIC, IS DESCRIBED IN

DETAIL IN THE TEXT OF THE BOOK FROM WHICH THE MAP WAS LIFTED.

VOLUME I of this book can be purchased at:

www.trafford.com/06-0611

NOTE: IF the above-referred to map is not in your book, call the Author at928/284-9306and a copy will be mailed to _ you at no additional cost.

CHAPTER II 

UNDERSTANDING BOATING

Going boating is not a simple undertaking, despite what many may believe from boat advertisements. Absolutely enjoyable, but not simplistic, if done with even a modicum of care. Going cruising is less simple. And extended cruising requires extensive preparation, a wad of money, dedication, much introspection, many hours of research and, more important, the ability to reach committed decisions. This Chapter in Volume I explores boating in such a way that those seriously contemplating extended cruising can be carefully serious. This is an expurgated version of that much lengthier exposition.

Some Background. Boating is a term that conjures up scads of definitional mind pictures, usually tracing back to one’s youth. The fuzzy memories of childhood, the scenes from scores of heroic movies, and the word pictures painted by hundreds of novels define boating and that activities’ necessary underside-boats. Then there is the real nautical world. Which, done properly, is far more pleasant than most mind’s eye can envision.

Defining Boating. The accepted definition of a boat is a waterborne conveyance that can be placed on a ship. Thus bigger is defined out. Then there is the canoe and rowboat, both qualifying as a boat, but only in mild waters. The bassboat also is removed from consideration due to its specialized nature and generally fishy smell. Then there are workboats and pleasure craft. Only the latter will be considered for the purposes of this dissertation on boating via cruising. And we won’t even mention PWCs-Personal Water Craft.

So the subject can quickly be pared down to an even more basic item-type of motive power. Since the demise of the steamboat there are only two real power sources for pleasure boating: internal combustion power OR sail.

Sail vs. Power. Sailing an activity in which the boater is more interested in the act than in the place or direction. Such is understandable, since only a skilled sailor effectively can proceed upwind, especially against a river current in a narrow waterway. Or dock the craft while under sail.

Power boaters want to go someplace-usually. But generally not very far; not nearly as far as we went-26,000 miles. Or take as long as we did-15 years; or spend the time viewing the scenery and studying the history of the areas we traversed, as did we. Power boaters also differ from sailboaters in goal-they want to get to a specific place but enjoy the act enroute. That act of boating usually is inherently enjoyable, especially when self-limited to good weather. But not always, for marine weather forecasting is still an arcane art. All one has to do to differentiate the joy of powerboating from that of sailing is to attend the end of a sailing event that terminates in fog, rain and wind.

Safety. The Coast Guard, its Auxiliary, other boaters, the several boating service response firms, and plain common sense assure the safety of boating. Alcohol and water do not mix. Most boating accidents, which in number perbillions of hours spent in boats are miniscule, emanate from two sources: 1. Alcohol or drug consumption and 2. Stupidity

The former can be solved by abstinence while boating. The latter also is remediable, by escalating the level to plain ignorance. As an old saying goes:

Ignorance can be cured by study and learning, but stupidity is terminal.

Thus caution should be paramount, in order to truly enjoy one of mankind’s greatest inventions-the boat. To provide the first level of information:

Telephone numbers will vary area to area, and some Canadian frequencies are different, especially weather, but the two nations essentially are compatible regarding emergency services and procedures.

Bayliner 4788 Doug Out. To provide the reader of Volume II, who might not yet acquired Volume I, the following description of the newly acquired 1997 Bayliner 4755 Doug Out is here repeated from Volume I. The point here is to illustrate that Doug Out literally was a six room moving home; commodious, comfortable and reliable. The result was a magnificent Cruise of a Lifetime and Voyage of Discovery living out my Undaunted Curiosity.

Specs for and Description of DOUG OUT. The following is extracted pages 326329 and 334-338 of Volume I, to allow those who only read this Volume II to appreciate what the phrase commissioning a new boat involves.

The newly-purchased 1997 Bayliner 4788 arrived by truck from Arlington, Washington at Harborview Marine on Bayou Chico, Pens acola, Florida on November 5, 1996. I arrived on Wednesday, November 13. During November Doug Out was commissioned and modified to suit our needs. A local retired U.S. Navy Aircraft Maintenance Officer, who became a close friend, advised and assisted in making careful decisions and in doing all necessary things a new boat owner must accomplish during the initial commissioning process. Bobby Crawford saved me from myself many times such that Doug Out would not have become the pleasing craft it was without his careful ministrations.

The following is a limited description of the commissioning procedure which made Doug Out the marvelous home it was for us for five years.

Local Modifications. Cabinetmakers eliminated the doors and partition between a bow kid’s cabin and the master suite, thereby expanding our quarters significantly. They also built storage cabinets in the cockpit and made several other directed miscellaneous betterments. The electronics supplier/installers did their thing around me and the other events, with three techs on board much of the time. Other modifications and additions were made to accommodate the newly purchased white Honda 80 motorscooters and Avon SeaSport 11.8’ dinghy. Hoisting slings of my design and other canvas modifications were made.

Rather than try to list the myriad items I had concocted to better our boating experience and living conditions, the following will have to act as outline. Needless to report, I kept as busy as the proverbial one armed paperhanger with the itch during the remainder of November and early December. But all was accomplished on time, within budget and satisfactorily. I was pleased.

The Press Release. The following was prepared by the Harborview Marine PR flack, evidently with much assistance from Bayliner, and printed in most of the newspapers in the Florida panhandle. It presents a fair picture of what we ended up with. The reporter actually did a pretty good job of accuracy, including the future cruise plans, some of which were later revised as we progressed.

"Harborview Marine Delivers First Big Yacht

On December 11, Pam and Doug Ayres of Sedona, Arizona motored out Bayou Chico, under the drawbridge and into Pensacola Bay, in a newly commissioned 47-foot [54’ overall]Bayliner 4788.

Delivery marked the first BIG motoryacht commissioned and delivered by Harborview Marine of Pensacola. Dan Smith, Sales Manager, reports that a 57-foot motoryacht is to be delivered in January and other sales of the largest Bayliner boats are pending.

The ToIBmissioning Process

The Ayres placed the order for their new boat, Doug Out, in early June. Demand for the classic Bayliner 4788 Pilot House Motoryacht required waiting their turn. Hull Number 1997-12 arrived in Pensacola by truck transporter on November 5. The Ayres had specified a numberof additions to the basic boat, including a full array of electronics in the spacious Pilot House, duplicated entirely on the Fly Bridge.

Added Electronics

The 4788 comes equipped with a Raytheon R21XX 32 mile radar, Lowrance digital depthfinder, Autohelm ST 7000 autopilot, with a second remote Autohelm unit on the Fly Bridge. Ayres had George’s Marine Electronics of Pensacola, working with Harborview’s technicians, add a Fly Bridge remote screen for the radar, and install the following, among other extensive enhancements: 2-Raytheon Raydata multifunction instruments 2-Standard LH-5 hailers and multi-station intercoms 2-Standard Horizon ‘Eclipse’ VHF radios 2-Apelco Chartplotter 7000s 2-Raytheon 398 GPS/Lorans

2-two-line DiamondTel cellular telephones, w/extensions 2-sets of FloScan digital fuel flow meters 1-Raytheon V850 video depthfinder 1-Interphase ‘Probe’ forward-scanning depthsounder

The ‘basic’ Bayliner 4788 Motoryacht also comes equipped with a full JVC stereo/AMM/FM/cassette sound system with multiple speakers, and two additional JVC AM/FM cassette systems in each of the master suite and on the Fly Bridge.

Ayres’ Additions

The Ayres had an Avon 3.45 meter [11.8’] RIB SeaSport dinghy mounted on the Fly Bridge aft deck, in a custom cradle, adjacent to the 4788’s 750pound capacity 12v davit. The tender to Doug Out naturally is named Doug In. It will reach 45 mph with its 30 hp Mercury outboard, purchased from Adventure Marine of Fort Walton Beach and rigged by Harborview.

Being experienced cruisers, Pam and Doug Ayres hoisted two identical Honda ‘Elite 80’ white motorscooters, purchased from Pensacola’s Emerald Coast Honda/Yamaha. They were mounted on the aft Fly Bridge next to the davit and dinghy, respectively..

Various other variances and ‘adjustments’ for cruising were added per the Ayres’ specs by each of Pensacola’s Blue Coral stainless rail mods), Aluminum Specialities (swim step, anchor hanger), Frank Ward (canvas), Tom Paux (boat name and ‘port’ painting), and Navarre’s Tidewater Marine Services* (hardware mounting) and Solid Surface Specialists (custom cabinetry).

The BIG Cruise Continues

The Ayres are mid-way in a 12 year circumnavigation of North America, having started April21, 1992, with the launch of theirfirst cruiser, 38-foot Big Wet Dream, built for them by Cooper-Queenship of Maple Ridge, British Columbia. They have covered the Pacific halfway to Alaska and south to San Diego, the Gulf In-tracoastal to Mobile, the Tenn-Tom and each of the Tennessee and Cumberland River systems to past the head of navigation of each. Dan Smith, Harborview Sales Manager, convinced the Ayres that the deal he could cut them on the larger 4788 would make their cruising life fuller, so Big Wet Dream was traded in on Doug Out.

The Cruise Resumes

Bayliner 4788 Doug Out is achieving .90 mpg at an a verage of 15.8 mph on its two Cummins 315 TDs. The remarkable performance of the Bayliner with full planing hull and its new engine matchup provided the Ayres with a 13 hour crossing from Cara-belle to Tarpon Springs, on to Clearwater Beach-200miles on 213 gallons of diesel fuel-at an average of 15.4 mph. Those numbers are outstanding considering that Doug Out carries 375 pounds of dinghy and motor, two 200pound motorscooters, and an estimated 1,500pounds of personal gear, groceries and electronics, as well as 440gallons of diesel fuel &200gallons of potable water.

The Ayres ‘good weather only’ Cruise Plan calls for them to dawdle in the Keys and Bahamas, and up the Atlantic ICW to winter Doug Out in Chesapeake, Maryland, and to spend the winter of 1997-98 at their home in Sedona, Arizona. Their Cruise will resume early April of 1998, north to Boston, Cape Cod, Maine, and then back to New York City and through the Erie Canal.

The Proof Continues

The Bayliner 4788 with its previous Hino 310 hp engines and the new Cummins 315s is proving to be an excellent cruising vessel, as well as economical and good looking, both sitting in the slip and on plane at the normal 20 mph cruise speed.’’

Git ‘er Done. The above press release is accurate as to end result, but getting there was aggravating and difficult. The extreme summer coastal Florida temperatures and humidity were oppressive. Chasing recalcitrant, over committed or under performing suppliers wasn’t easy. In the process I gained new appreciation for general contractors. Had I not had Bob Crawford available to assist and to whom I could vent it surely would have been deep into 1997 getting the boat into the desired condition and comforts of home.

Bobby’s Teachings. Bob Crawford taught me much with his jet aircraft methodologies of assuring nothing was done incorrectly. We together installed the many odds and ends of hardware necessary to assure the dinghy, both motorscooters and all other marine support items remained in place in rough seas. In the process I learned much. Of especial importance, Bob is one of those rarities one encounters in life—someone with whom I would trust my life totally, without hesitation, were the occasion to arise to require such.

Measurements & Downsides. Doug Outs measurements were 47.4’ at the waterline, 54’ overall and 14’ 11" wide, on three levels, with few stairs. Big Wet Dream was 35’, 38’ and 12.5’, respectively, with many steps between its decks. Doug Out had a lower profile, less actual sail area [a USCG term which is both calculable and evident], and little canvas, as compared to Big Wet Dream’s extensive but predictably locationally-accurate canvas leakage.

There were several downside items. Bridge clearance for Doug Out was 18’ 8 with antennas down, compared to standard USCG-specified bridge clearances of 21’. Later in the voyage inability to lower the radar arch to 15’ 6 prohibited entry to some desirable waterways. Due to the two 150 pound D8 inverter batteries, much storage, and the dinghy all being on the port side, Doug Out had a distinct 3" port list. A further annoyance was that due to the list, plus placement of the dinghy, Doug In had to be lowered into the water on the port side to allow the davit to be utilized to get the motorscooters down onto the dock. That fault would be cured by adding a small 300# capacity davit, on the starboard side, dedicated to the on board ground transportation.

Doug Out Described. Layout of the boat is here described for readers. The engine room was not capacious. The lack of headroom required crawling down a center walkway between the engines. Storage was available outboard of each engine as was more space aft of each of the Cummins power-plants. Engine room access was gained by a vertical square hatch with dog clamps from an anteroom, in which filters and fuel flow valves were co-located. Although tight, all was laid out well and reasonably accessible. Entry was via lifting a hatch built into the central hall as stairs down to that area.

The aft cockpit was full width, accessible from shore by a hinged door from the swim-step. The fiberglass rail structure had storage cabinets built in on three sides. Two large floor hatches provided access to the batteries, power steering fluid reservoir and mechanism, the Westerbeke 12.5 kw genset in its sound attenuation box, the trim tab hydraulics, and other accessories. There was sufficient cubic footage left over that I had the cabinetmakers install two large and easily removable, bolted down storage bins atop both banks of batteries. All the miscellaneous stuff ended up in those or in neatly organized racks around the edges of this lazarette area, accessed by two large hatches.

A video camera was installed leading to a screen on the flybridge. Thus what and who was behind the boat or on the swim step could be seen from the flybridge, eliminating the blind spot. A two-way intercom system also was installed, with speaker/mikes in the cockpit, salon, and center hall/galley area.

The Flybridge. A ladder led from the cockpit up to the flybridge deck, as did three steps from aft of the Pilothouse. There one Honda was strapped to the deck and starboard rail and the other reposed secured behind the forward facing sofa. The dinghy was in its cradle aft of and to the port of the scooters. Both Honda 80’s were covered by a custom fitted waterproof cover with drawstrings. Ahead of the scooters were two sofas-one on the starboard side facing another on the port. The latter was L shaped, and was Thunder’s travel haven. They were made of soft thick vinyl with quick draining heavy padding.

A fixed pilot’s seat faced the long low instrument panel, with all switches easily reachable and the instruments instantly legible. To the left of the pilot seat was a covered instrument enclosure containing the remote radar screen and its controls, an AM/FM/cassette, and a shelf for the handheld marine VHF. The co-pilot/navigator usually sat, available, on the front portion of that port side sofa just behind the radar/radio cabinet, next to a double drinkholder.

Pilothouse. This area was stupendous. From here visibility was almost as good as from the flybridge. The place was cozy, air conditioned and very comfortable. In good weather either or both sliding door on each of port and starboard sides could be left open with no concern about wake splash. An almost full width fixed sofa, fronted by a long table, was immediately behind the pilot’s high chair. That seat curved around to the starboard sliding door, which is where the co-pilot/navigator would sit when piloting was from the pilothouse. A large storage compartment was above the sofa and chart drawers and storage were located on either side of the instrument panel, topped by flat areas where charts could be spread out and navigational markings made.

For Big Wet Dream Pam had crosstitched and had framed a cartoon of a huge whale confronting a small boat, with the text Boating is hours of pleasure interrupted by moments of sheer panic. It had been transferred from Big Wet Dream to Doug Out and screwed to the aft wall of the pilothouse.

Teak. The boat was lined with, trimmed with or consisted of teak woodwork and trim, but inside only. Thus Doug Out was a low maintenance craft. Everything on the flybridge had its own canvas cover. A custom full bridge cover of heavy waterproof material also had been fitted for winter lay up.

Storage. Each sofa on the flybridge and in the salon had liftable seat cushions, thus exposing huge storage capacity underneath. All covers, toys, guest and back-up lifejackets and all sorts of stuff were stored in these flybridge storage areas. The salon sofas held groceries, spare parts and the two spare props and strut. Our problem was space availability vs. weight. Fortunately,

Doug Out cared not what we carried, merely sinking lower along the bootline.

We always felt that the heavier it was loaded the more comfortable was the cruise, with only a negligible effect on speed and fuel consumption. The port list and a slight aft settling was easily trimmed out such that we rarely changed the trim tabs from port up/starboard down, and bow neutral/level.

Electrical. The electrical controls and circuit breakers resided in a huge starboard cabinet, between the sliding door to the deck walkway and stairs down to the Main Deck salon. Thoughtful electrical system engineering enabled us to forego use of the three heavy 25’ 50 amp power lines. Each of the three circuits could be switched such that Circuit 1 could power the entire boat. Circuits 1 and 2 split the load, with Circuit 3 bearing the three reverse cycle heatpumps and four electric heaters. Our methodology was to switch circuits 1 and 2 together, fed by one 30 amp line, while the 2nd 30 amp power cord served circuit 3. The only downside to this lash-up was that Pam had to check the ammeter before using either of the washer/dryer or microwave.

If the automatic battery charger or water heater were on, a choice had to be made between the several loads. But the charger was very effective and hot water was made during the day’s run via an engine heat exchanger. On circuit 3, only two ACs, or three of the four heaters could be operated on 30 amps. A 50 amp-to-twin 30 amp splitter provided flexibility. We had every marine electrical connector ever developed and, during the five years and thousands of miles of Doug Out cruising, we used them all; some in weird locations.

All 12v breakers and meters and the inverter controls also were in the cir-cuitbreaker cabinet. And everything was neatly labeled, and quickly learned.

Main Deck. Entry to the main deck via the salon was thru a heavy glass sliding door from the cockpit. A leather L shaped sofa, with storage underneath, lined the aft and starboard wall. An extension cellphone was mounted at the forward end of the sofa; the other handset and signal booster on the pilothouse panel. A large teak and glass cabinet with abundant storage below, and wet bar lined the starboard side ahead of the sofa, with another AM/FM, cassette, CD cabinet, complete with yet another marine VHF, facing aft above and forward of the wet bar, immediately adjacent to but at right angles to the circuit breaker cabinet. The ac/dc icemaker was under the stereo cabinet.

A cabinet specifically wired for TV was built into the end of the counter separating kitchen from salon. We crammed a 27 TV with VCR in, wired to the boosted multi-directional TV antenna atop the radar arch. It also was connected to the satellite receiver, which in turn was connected to a portable DirecTV dish. That self-designed sophisticated signal location system [dish screwed onto a 4 x 10 x 24 board] proved to be both quick and very effective.

The Salon. A large heavy square teak table was just ahead of the L sofa at the aft starboard corner. Opposite, the boat had come equipped with two huge overstuffed chairs with a small teak table between them. Those chairs were so large they blocked access to the battery/master electrical cabinet on the aft bulkhead to port of the entry sliding door, as well as making it impossible to get to the extensive teak cabinetry lining the port side of the Salon. So we gave them to the Crawfords and replaced them with teak folding director’s chairs. Thus was secured easy access to all manner of stuff and things in those cabinets on shelves and in the myriad of storage boxes therein. Following my psychiatric makeup, absolutely everything had to be in its place such that in absolute pitch black darkness I could locate it readily and instantly.

Galley. Corian topped all counters and most cabinetry, including a wraparound counter separating the galley from the Salon. The galley was fully equipped with a full sized fridge, microwave/convection oven, and a 4-burner electric cooktop. Cabinetry galore topped all this, plus Pam had decreed the addition of a coffeemaker and toaster-oven. The latter was portable but Bob and I had a terrible time trying to decide where to install the coffee-maker, it being the wall type. That task took us at least three hours, mostly in measuring and deciding location. It was a prime example of Bob’s exactitude and my methodical nature meshing. One cabinet held a small crockpot thus, since all the 110v outlets were powered by the inverter, Pam often had dinner bubbling as we traveled. The smells wafting thru the boat were most enticing.

The galley double sink was in a wide corian counter, facing the port side window, with another counter on the inside of the oval area, but at a lower level than the portion facing the salon. More teak cabinet storage resided under all that flat corian area. The kitchen [galley?!] even had decorative parquet hardwood floor, although we kept a carpet runner over much of it.

The Center Hall. Three steps down was the center hall to the Guest area and Owner’s Quarters. The steps flipped up to provide entry to the ante room compartment and engine room. Immediately to the left was the Guest Cabin. It had a closet, built-in double bed and nightstand with drawers. The under-bed storage was huge. Just across the hall was the Guest toilet, with sink and counter, shower, medicine cabinet & much storage. We used this huge wall cabinet as the container of medicines, curatives, and first aid materials.

On forward down the hall on the right was a compartment containing the built-in vacuum. Directly across was the washer/dryer compartment. Bayliner listed this as an option, and Pam didn’t want it; she desired more storage area. But it was delivered installed and, after two weeks she had fallen in love with the thing and used it continually the next five years. It did cause us trouble later, but nothing serious, just annoying due to her love affair with it.

Owner’s Cabin. Here we had the cabinetmakers remove the partition separating the former child’s cabin from the Owner’s Cabin. That opened up that entire area as one larger room. There now were three easily accessible full length closets and three sets of ample drawers. Additionally, the queen bed on the bow facing platform had drawers under, as well as a huge storage well, one of the heat pumps and the two 100 gallon freshwater tanks. The storage well was filled with 12, yes 12 cases of my beverage of choice, de-caffeinated Diet Dr. Pepper. The stuff wasn’t easy to find, so when available I stocked up.

The upper bunk in the former child’s cabin could be folded up when not in use and stayed in that position the entirety of our ownership of Doug Out. I added some catalog-acquired teak bookshelves to the walls and, together with bookends and a couple of file boxes that space became our joint office.

We were able to shoehorn an offbrand 14" TV with VCR into a cabinet designated for such, but only after much shopping to find one the exact measurements of the hole. Installation challenged even Bob Crawford’s expertise.

The Attic. The boat had a removable plastic panel in the hall ceiling between the two cabins we combined to make the Owner’s Suite. The cabinetmakers utilized teak salvaged from the removed door and partitions to convert the hatch into a hinged access hatch. The space above provided access to fly-bridge instruments and was huge. So large that at one time three electronics technicians were in this attic installing instruments. We utilized the flat area by bolting down a large plastic under-bed storage box acquired from a Target store. Various items not used often were stashed here. Doug Out did not lack for places to store stuff. On final sale of our boat home of five years we offloaded a literal ton of weighed personal goods to haul home to Arizona.

Fore Deck. We added storage to the foredeck by bolting down a very large ice chest with padded seat lid. It was used to store all electrical connectors and the three heavy 25’ 50 amp power lines. That freed up the starboard in-deck storage compartment for the 30 amp lines used most of the time. The matching compartment on the port side held Pam’s forward cleaning supplies; more were stashed in the cockpit. For some strange unfathomable reason she insisted on cleaning the boat almost every day, alone. I wasn’t sufficiently meticulous to suit her sensibilities so, on landing someplace, my duties were restricted to paying for the slip, securing local knowledge and, as she tactfully put it, B.S.ing. I was pressed into cleaning service on occasion when the salt buildup was thick, and to rinse for the bi-weekly extreme wash.

Anchor Locker. We had equipped Doug Out with a double set of anchor rollers and a double action [chain and line] windlass on the pulpit. Each anchor had 50’ of chain and 300’ of 3/4" nylon line. The chain and line were stored below, in the extreme bow of the boat, behind a hinged mirror that acted as the headboard for the master suite bed. Each of a drastically oversized Bruce and aluminum Fortress anchor were used, depending on conditions. The Bruce stuck out ready for instantaneous usage while the Fortress/Danforth-type hung on the pulpit railing, merely having to be unlatched for use. On the starboard side of the bow was yet another in-deck flush locker, this one holding a hose bib, hose and brush for anchor and pulpit cleaning purposes. It also held lines and floats used for hooking up to fixed mooring buoys as necessary.

Storage. RV and boat designers are kindred souls. Both worship cubic footage and their religion is not to waste so customers will not want. We certainly didn’t. Even the several stairs had liftable steps, with something underneath, either a piece of equipment or yet more storage. Somehow we managed to fill almost every cubic inch and, even more surprising, actually could recall much of the time the location where something needed could be found.

Description Conclusion. Those are the highpoints. The 4788 was a considerably re-worked and re-engined version of Bayliner’s long extant 4588. But the re-design was driven by 4588 owners, from whom Bayliner solicited extensive comments, gripes and requests. Thus we had acquired a time-tested vessel, specifically designed for cruising pleasure by and for cruisers. And we were to have many years of that on board OUR Doug Out !

NOTE: Around2003 Brunswick Corporation re-jiggered its boat lines, restricting its Bayliner nameplate to a maximum length of 35’. But the former 4788 lives on-it now can be purchased as Brunswick’s Meridian 490 Pilothouse. This new craft is the 4788 exactly, apparently with a few minor modifications. But the owner-sensitive and cruiser-conducive hull, layout and basics fortunately seem to have remained wholly intact. But the price has escalated severely from what we paid in 1996. Pictures and specifications can be viewed at the Brunswick website www.meridian-yachts.com

The below images are extracted from the above website illustrating the 2007 Meridian 490 Pilothouse yacht. It appears to be near identical to the Bayliner 4788. For the money this is the perfect way to have your home and travel too. My two books/travel journals certainly attest to the comfort and joy which an ultra-comfortable, durable and economical yacht can provide to long range and long tenured cruisers, such as Doug and Pam Ayres of Sedona, Arizona of www.dougsedona@esedona.net and www.sedonapam@esedona.net

Note of Admission: The Voyage of Discovery reported in this book and previous Volume I, took place between 1986 and 2001. The majority of the journey resulting in these two books occurred in the 1990’s and 2000-2001. Thus some of the buildings, communities, locational matters and other subjects may well have, and undoubtedly have changed to some extent due to the passage of time between the observations reported herein out of my notes, and the time of the writing of these Undaunted Curiosity Volumes I & II. Thus to any community leaders, merchants, restaurateurs, historians or others who might take timeline offense, I apologize. Time has the tendency to overrun us all, especially our observations. But history has a way of eventually curing all ills. I have not attempted an absolutely accurate depiction of history and its salient statistics, so please forgive any inaccuracies or errors.

YET ANOTHER DEPICTION of the INLAND NAVIGATION SYSTEM

CHAPTER III 

WHAT IS IN VOLUME I—The First Half of the Voyage

The first half of this two volume Voyage of Discovery began by taking our honeymoon on Lake Powell, Arizona/Nevada, in a very slow and somewhat uncomfortable rental houseboat. There we both fell in love with and cruising by powerboat, by taking this first ever self-directed cruise by water.

Next. We had enjoyed the week on Powell so much we quickly decided we needed our own more comfortable and faster boat. Thus Volume I relates how we had found Lake Powell initially and, in decision tree format, the search for and decision on a boat and a tow vehicle(s). By stealing time from two demanding careers, we did manage to cruise all California, Nevada and Utah Colorado River lakes and even a few other water bodies. After telling of those initial learning steps, we ventured towing Wet Dream, the selected 1986 Bayliner 2755 on a tri-axle trailer, to a delightful cruise the navigable length of Oregon/Washington/Idaho’s Willamette, Columbia, John Day, Snake and Clearwater Rivers; then the California Delta’s extensive waterways. Adding a 21’ modified pickle fork ski boat complicated boat selection, our taking both boats to Lake Havasu several times. But we managed, retreating to Lake Powell and other California locations to cruise among the trees and isolation.

Going Bigger. We had become typical boaters, but aspired to be extraordinary cruisers. A chance encounter in the Yukon resulted in development of reference sources and an extensive Twelve Year Cruise Plan whereby we would navigate the vast majority of the coasts and navigable waterways of North America. Thus the search began for the first step up in size—deciding on a 38’ Canadian-built Cooper/Queenship aft cabin craft. From Maple Ridge, BC we then spent months methodically sightseeing much of the British Columbia mainland and Vancouver Island coastlines to and past Desolation Sound, the Gulf and San Juan Islands and all Puget Sound via Big Wet Dream. Then it was down the Pacific to the California Delta (Sacramento & San Joaquin Rivers and Bays) again, and then more Pacific to Southern California via Half Moon Bay, Monterey, Morro Bay and Santa Barbara to a slip in Long Beach.

Retirement to Boating. Deciding to fully retire led us to sell businesses and homes, between cruises to Catalina Island and other local ports. The boat was trucked to Port Isabel, the south end of the West Gulf Intracoastal, leading to cruising the entirety of that Waterway and its tributary bayous and rivers. We even got to Avery Island, the fount of Tabasco sauce; and Lake Charles, to one of the first now numerous gambling barges. We thus began annually cruising from mid-April to mid-October, whereby we experienced the East Gulf Intracoastal Waterway to Houston, New Orleans, Biloxi and Mobile, thence north up the Alabama/Mississippi state line via the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway to the Tennessee River. Going to and/or beyond the head of navigation of each River became a mantra here, leading us to spending two years on the Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers, cruising virtually every mile of navigable stream, meeting many interesting people, and truly exploring America. Nashville, twice, was a highlight. When one cruises upriver, one must return downstream. The numerous small towns and isolated marinas and locks thru dams listed in Appendices A thru H illustrate the extent of the devotion Pam and I had to seeing first hand the glories of America.

Bigger Again. As is usual, urgings for a larger and faster boat led us to trade Big Wet Dream to purchase Doug Out, a Bayliner 4788. This vessel was a six room house capable of moving in waters as shallow as 4’ at 20 mph. Now retired fully, we took delivery and spent two months in Pensacola, Florida commissioning this wonderful new cruiser. But a major addition was two Honda 80 motorscooters to provide comfortable and fast land transport.

With this combination, plus an Avon 11.8’ RIB dinghy, we spent the next 11 months perambulating the waterways of Florida, including all the East Gulf and Atlantic Intracoastal. Spending the winter in the Florida Keys, and even exploring the full length of the cross-Florida Okeechobee/Caloosahatchee Waterway and the north-south St. Johns River nearly to Orlando was enlightening.

The U.S. East Coast. Gradually, being careful not to miss any historic or scenic wonder, we worked our way from Key West up the east coast town-by-port thru Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina, into Virginia. The remarkable low country coastal islands were a thrill, as was spending several days in the favorite city encountered-Savannah, Georgia. We even succeeded in getting to Cape Hatteras and Manteo/Roanoke Island. Almost every museum and historical site passed thru our camera, and is described in some summarizing detail in Volume I.

Coastal Virginia and Maryland, especially Norfolk and Washington, D.C., were experienced exhaustively. Doug Out even was permitted to dock at George Washington’s Mount Vernon, enroute to a spectacular visit in the nation’s capital. The length of Chesapeake Bay was zig-zagged, thus missing little. Numerous small historic towns, the Maryland Capital of Annapolis, the magnificent Baltimore Inner Harbor, and the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal proved to exceed their publicity. Several days in Philadelphia solidified knowledge of U.S. history, followed by a lengthy visit to several New Jersey coastal towns, including Salem, Cape May and Atlantic City.

The Big Apple. Entry into New York Harbor is a patriotic spectacular. Seeing the lower Manhattan skyline gradually come into view, then passing the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island defies description. We even managed to find a calm port with full access to the wonders of New York City, via its marvelous public transport system, thereby allowing attendance at numerous Broadway plays, musicals and the many NYC museums and art galleries.

Due to porting at so many places of beauty and historic significance, the description of the joys of cruising and the sights seen had to be broken into two Volumes. Thus Volume I terminates when Doug Out leaves NYC headed up the Atlantic coast of the Eastern United States, via the New England coast.

CHAPTER IV 

NEW YORK CITY ALMOST TO MAINE

Since arrival at Liberty Landing Marina at Liberty State Park, NJ on May 19 the three of us (Dottie, Pam and me) had partaken of the virtually limitless wonders of New York City. As this Volume II continues relating our Journey of Discovery it was May 26, 1998 and now time to move on northeastward along the Atlantic Coast. Besides, Dottie (Pam’s Mom and thus my mother-in-law) had other trips to make and engagements to keep. After yet another week proving that she is the antidote to mother-in-law jokes, her airline ticket back to Phoenix and Sedona was out of Hartford, Connecticut. Thus we had to move on northeastward into Long Island Sound to get her to Hartford Airport.

The Scenic Departure. From a scenic standpoint it was absolutely mandatory that we again pass by the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island enroute to the East River. Amazingly, just as we arrived off Ellis Island it was announced over a local radio station that the U.S. Supreme Court had just ruled that that Island was part of New Jersey, not New York State as had been claimed since 1776. After more than a century of legal jousting, the decision was made-Ellis Island instantly was moved from New York State to New Jersey.

From Liberty Island we turned northeast into Buttermilk Channel, between Brooklyn and Governor’s Island. The latter is the Coast Guard base for this region, complete with housing and its own automobile ferries for its CG families. This must be THE ideal CG assignment, with the towers of Manhattan to the immediate north, the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island near to the west, Brooklyn close easterly, and the New York Harbor entry for all vessels directly south. Map 4 illustrates these proximities. Map 5 supplies detail.

East River Bridges. The tide was slack, the day pleasant and sunny but a bit hazy. The Harbor and the air above it was stirred up by a constant procession of ferries, large freighters and tankers, cruise ships, helicopters, shuttle craft, other variegated vessels, and private boats of all sizes and types. All were scurrying in various directions, churning the waters into a 1’ to 2’ cross chop.

It is a genuine thrill to cruise immediately adjacent to and peer into the lower Manhattan Financial District, Battery Park, and then, in turn, to go under each of the Brooklyn, Manhattan, Williamsburg and Queensboro Bridges. But the Roosevelt Island overhead tramway was the most interesting. That cable device is the only access to this prime quasi-Manhattan residential enclave.

The East River was an interesting agglomeration of tidewhorls, froth and tidal lines, ripples and debris pockets. We went very slowly, less than 100’ from the United Nations Building as we chugged upstream. The East River isn’t a river; it is a connection between Long Island Sound and the Atlantic Ocean. Even a modicum of Sound tide flow makes for a strong current.

More Scenic Wonders. The Empire State and Chrysler Buildings and, a distance back, Rockefeller Center could be observed. Here the River splits,

MAP 4 NEW YORK HARBOR

(Harbor Entries to Hudson River and East River Hell Gate)

MAP 5

NEW YORK’S HARBOR ISLANDS & ENTRY TO THE EAST RIVER

flowing around Roosevelt Island. The preferred channel is the western leg which, to our surprise,