Backpacking Oregon: From River Valleys to Mountain Meadows

BACKPACKING OREGON

From the book . . .

ROGUE RIVER TRAIL (TRIP 1)

This wild canyon provides continuously spectacular scenery, waterfalls, [and] unusually abundant wildlife. . . . It is unquestionably one of Oregon’s most exciting long backpacking trips.

TIMBERLINE TRAIL LOOP (TRIP 4)

. . . probably the most famous footpath in the state . . . The mountain views are stunning, wildflowers choke many of the meadows, and exceptional side trips abound.

THREE SISTERS LOOP (TRIP 6)

One of Oregon’s greatest long backpacking trips, this route completely circles the Three Sisters, providing ever-changing views of these beautiful siblings. . . . A hiker could spend weeks here and never tire of the scenery or run out of places to explore.

BEAR CREEK LOOP (TRIP 16)

Tucked away in a lesser used corner of the Wallowa Mountains, this loop provides an excellent opportunity for experienced hikers to explore some outstanding country, see plenty of wildlife, and enjoy lonesome trails. . . . This trip’s main attraction . . . is the spectacular hike along Washboard Ridge, one of the most outstanding ridge walks in Oregon.

STEENS MOUNTAIN GORGES LOOP (TRIP 24)

The cliffs on the mountain’s eastern escarpment drop more than 5,500 feet to the flat expanse of Alvord Desert. On the gently sloping west side of the mountain, ice age glaciers carved immense U-shaped gorges that are among the most impressive in the world.

HONEYCOMBS LOOP (TRIP 26)

A land of striking beauty lies on the east side of the Owyhee Reservoir. In the dry canyons of this desert country, you will discover a collection of oddly shaped rock pinnacles, towers, and cliffs painted in a colorful array of browns, reds, and oranges.

Backpacking Oregon: From River Valleys to Mountain Meadows

1st Edition 1999

2nd Edition 2007

3rd Edition 2019

Copyright © 2007 and 1999 by Douglas Lorain

Copyright © 2019 by Becky Ohlsen

Distributed by Publishers Group West

Manufactured in the United States of America

Cover design: Larry B. Van Dyke and Scott McGrew

Book design: Larry B. Van Dyke with updates by Annie Long

Maps by Douglas Lorain and Scott McGrew

Photos by the author except as noted

Front cover photos, clockwise from top: Three-Fingered Jack (Trip 5; photographed by Becky Ohlsen); Copper Creek Falls (Trip 19; photographed by Douglas Lorain); Anthony Lake (Trip 14; photographed by Becky Ohlsen); and The Pacific Crest Trail below Red Buttes (Trip 2; photographed by Douglas Lorain)

Back cover photo: Hells Canyon (Trip 21; photographed by Becky Ohlsen)

Frontispiece: Looking upstream Minam River to Jim White Ridge (see Trip 15); photographed by Douglas Lorain

Book editor: Amber Kaye Henderson

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Lorain, Douglas, 1962- author. | Ohlsen, Becky, author.

Title: Backpacking Oregon / Douglas Lorain ; revised by Becky Ohlsen.

Description: Third Edition. | Birmingham, Alabama : Wilderness Press, an imprint of Adventure- KEEN, [2018] | 1st Edition September 1999—T.p. verso. | 2nd Edition May 2007—T.p. verso. | Distributed by Publishers Group West—T.p. verso.

Identifiers: LCCN 2018037441| ISBN 9780899977751 (paperback) | ISBN 9780899977768 (ebook) ISBN 9781643590110 (hardcover)

Subjects: LCSH: Backpacking—Oregon—Guidebooks. | Hiking—Oregon—Guidebooks. | Trails— Oregon—Guidebooks. | Outdoor recreation—Oregon—Guidebooks. | Oregon—Guidebooks.

Classification: LCC GV199.42.O7 L67 2019 | DDC 796.51/09795—dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018037441

Published by:

WILDERNESS PRESS

An imprint of AdventureKEEN

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Birmingham, AL 35233

800-443-7227; FAX 205-326-1012

Visit wildernesspress.com for a complete listing of our books and for ordering information. Contact us at our website, at facebook.com/wildernesspress1967, or at twitter.com/wilderness1967 with questions or comments. To find out more about who we are and what we’re doing, visit blog.wildernesspress.com.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.

SAFETY NOTICE: Although Wilderness Press and the authors have made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur to anyone while using this book. You are responsible for your own safety and health while in the wilderness. The fact that a trail is described in this book does not mean that it will be safe for you. Be aware that trail conditions can change from day to day. Always check local conditions and know your own limitations.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Douglas Lorain: The help of many people made this book possible. First of all, I would like to thank the hundreds of wilderness rangers and fellow hikers who provided companionship and trip recommendations.

SPECIAL THANKS GO TO THE FOLLOWING PERSONS:

For introducing me to backpacking: my parents, Bob and Nancy Lorain.

Occasional hiking partners and/or friends: David Elsbernd, Barbara Fink, Bob Fink, and Glenn Sutton.

From the now-closed Nature of the Northwest store, Don Haines, who displayed enormous patience and an uncanny ability to answer questions on virtually any subject.

Formerly on the Hells Canyon Preservation Council, Ric Bailey.

From the Mazamas, Keith Mischke.

From the Trails Club of Oregon, Walt Garvin.

U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management personnel, who read drafts or otherwise provided their considerable expertise: Bob Alward, Larry Brandvold, Ray Crist, Leigh Dawson, Mary Emerick, Carole Holly, Dwight Johnson, Janet Kirsch, Don McLennan, Randy Menke, Kirk Metzger, Jacquelyn Oakes, Steve Otoupalik, Mike Ricketts, Robin Rose, John Shipp, Cathi Wilbanks, and Sue Womack.

From Oregon State Parks, Pete Bond.

For generously sharing his experience in publishing, William L. Sullivan.

For her botanical expertise, Christine Ebrahimi.

For her love, support, and the countless other wonderful things she brings to my life, my wife, Becky Lovejoy.

Becky Ohlsen: Thanks to Wilderness Press and to Doug Lorain for giving me the opportunity to help update this revered and trusted book. Working on it was a dream job, and it allowed me to spend time in a few parts of Oregon that I’d only ever driven through or dipped a proverbial toe in. Thanks also to the many rangers who answered odd questions, the hikers who stopped to chat on the trail, and especially the folks who perform crucial trail maintenance every spring. Lastly, thanks to the nurse on the health-advice hotline who talked me down when I called in a panic after picking up a tick in Southern Oregon. (It turns out that Lyme disease is still uncommon in these parts.)

Mount Hood from just above Cooper Spur Shelter (see Trip 4)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

CONTENTS

Acknowledgments

Map Legend

Featured Trips Summary Chart

Preface

A Word About the Third Edition

INTRODUCTION

How to Use This Guide

Wild Areas of Oregon

Safety Notice

General Tips on Backpacking in Oregon

Overview Map of Featured Trips

FEATURED TRIPS

Klamath and Siskiyou Mountains

1Rogue River Trail

2Siskiyou–Boundary Trail

Western Old Cascades

3Bull of the Woods Loop

High Cascades: North

4Timberline Trail Loop

5Mount Jefferson Wilderness Traverse

6Three Sisters Loop

7Separation Creek Loop

8Mink Lake Area

High Cascades: South

9Diamond Peak Loop

10 North Umpqua–Mount Thielsen Trails

11 North Umpqua Trail

12 Sky Lakes Traverse

Blue Mountains

13 Strawberry Mountains Traverse

14 Elkhorn Crest Trail

Wallowa Mountains

15 Minam River Loop

16 Bear Creek Loop

17 Lostine–Minam Loop

18 Wallowa River Loop

19 Southern Wallowas Traverse

20 East Eagle–Imnaha Loop

Hells Canyon

21 Hells Canyon Western Rim Summit Trail

22 Snake River Trail

23 Hells Canyon Bench High Trail

Southeast Oregon Mountains

24 Steens Mountain Gorges Loop

25 Desert Trail: Pueblo Mountains Section

Owyhee Country

26 Honeycombs Loop

Other Backpacking Options

About the Authors

Featured Trips Summary Chart

PREFACE

Guidebook authors face a dilemma. Without dedicated supporters, the wilderness wouldn’t be protected in the first place. The best and most enthusiastic advocates are those who have actually visited the land, often with the help of a guidebook. On the other hand, too many boots can be destructive. It is the responsibility of every visitor to tread lightly on the land and to speak out strongly for its preservation.

Even land officially protected as wilderness needs continued citizen involvement. Use restrictions, grazing rights, mining claims, horse damage, and entry fees all continue to present challenges. Remember that you own this land. Treat it with respect and get involved in its management.

Almost every agency official who reviewed this material stressed the need for hikers to leave no trace of their visit. The authors believe the time has come for us to go beyond the well-known Leave No Trace principles. It must be our goal to leave behind a landscape that not only shows no trace of our presence but is also in better shape than before we arrived. Here are some guidelines:

•Leave no litter of your own. Even better, remove any litter left by others (blessedly little these days).

•Do some minor trail maintenance as you hike. Kick rocks off the trail and remove limbs and debris. Major trail maintenance problems, such as large blowdowns or washouts, should be reported to the land managers, so they can concentrate their limited dollars where those are most needed.

•Always camp in sites that either are compacted from years of previous use or can easily accommodate a tent without being damaged (sand, gravel bars, and densely wooded areas are best). Never camp on fragile meadow vegetation or beside lakes or streams. If you see camps being established in inappropriate places, be proactive. Place a few limbs or rocks over the area to discourage further use, scatter horse apples, and remove fire-scarred rocks. Report those who ignore the rules to rangers (or offer to help the offenders move to a better location).

•Never feed wildlife, and encourage others to do likewise.

•Do not build campfires. This holds doubly true for desert areas, where there is little fuel anyway. You don’t need a fire to have a good time, and it is damaging to the land. When you discover a fire ring in an otherwise pristine area, scatter the rocks and cover the fire pit to discourage its use.

•Leave all of the following at home: soap (even biodegradable soap pollutes); pets (even well-­mannered pets are instinctively seen as predators by wildlife); anything loud; and any outdated attitudes you may have about going out to conquer the wilderness.

•For environmentally conscious backpackers, one good solution to the old dilemma of how to dispose of toilet paper is to find a natural alternative. Two excellent options are the large, soft leaves of thimbleberry at lower elevations and the light green lichen that hangs from trees at higher elevations. They’re not exactly Charmin soft, but they get the job done.

A WORD ABOUT THE THIRD EDITION

Thanks to the enthusiastic response of hikers in every corner of the state, Backpacking Oregon now goes proudly into its third edition. Fans of the first and second editions will recognize the familiar user-friendly format as well as most of the trips, but we’ve made a handful of changes.

All but four of the outstanding trips described in the second edition have been retained. The two extended backpacking trips on the coast that were in the previous edition have become difficult to reasonably recommend, due to parking problems, beach closures, and perilous river crossings. The Eagle Creek Fire of 2017 forced the closure of several trails in the Columbia River Gorge, including much of the loop described in the previous edition. Some of the trails in that area have reopened, but at press time, the main Eagle Creek Trail was still closed, with no time line for reopening. Similarly, massive wildfires in the Wenaha River Canyon destroyed much of that hike’s scenery and appeal. We’ve extended our coverage of the quiet, woodsy North Umpqua Trail to make it a featured trip. In addition, the original hikes have been carefully updated to reflect changes in trail conditions, roads, phone numbers, administrative rules, and the like.

We invite all readers, whether new to hiking and this book or already wearing boots worn ragged from years of backpacking, to use this third edition as a guide to many years of great adventures in the wildlands of Oregon. We hope you enjoy touring these trails as much as we did. Please feel free to contact us, in care of Wilderness Press at the address listed on the copyright page, with your suggestions and updates, so that this book can continue to be the best and most accurate backpacking guide to the Beaver State.

Toketee Falls (see Trip 11)

photographed by Becky Ohlsen

Three-Fingered Jack from the Pacific Crest Trail (Trip 5)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

The view north from South Sister (Trip 6)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Duffy Lake (Trip 5)

photographed by Becky Ohlsen

Rogue River Ranch (Trip 1)

photographed by Becky Ohlsen

Wildflowers along the Rogue River Trail (Trip 1)

photographed by Becky Ohlsen

photographed by Douglas Lorain

photographed by Douglas Lorain

photographed by Douglas Lorain

The North Umpqua Wild and Scenic River (Trip 11)

photographed by Becky Ohlsen

Himmelwright Meadow (Trip 21)

photographed by Becky Ohlsen

East Eagle Falls below Prospect Lake (Trip 20)

photographed by Becky Ohlsen

The shady, well-marked North Umpqua Trail (Trip 11)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Standley Cabin (Trip 16)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Meadow below High Lake (Trip 13)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Meadow at south end of Swamp Lake (Trip 17)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

The Bench Trail above Pleasant Valley (Trip 23)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

The scene from Hells Canyon Overlook (Trip 21)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Owyhee Reservoir (Trip 26)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Peak 9,775 over Ice Lake (Trip 18)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Mules hauling a wagon at Red’s Horse Ranch (Trip 15)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Lemolo Falls (Trip 10)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Red’s Horse Ranch (Trip 15)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Bald Mountain and Washboard Ridge (Trip 16)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Mount Thielsen (Trip 10)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Red Indian paintbrush in the Honeycombs (Trip 26)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Swamp Lake (Trip 17)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Mount Hood near Cairn Basin (Trip 4)

photographed by Douglas Lorain

Introduction

There are many ways to see and appreciate the beauty of Oregon. Many parts of the state can be seen just as easily (sometimes more efficiently) via day hikes, rafting trips, bicycle tours, or even from your car. This book, however, focuses on the best ways for backpackers to see the state. After many years and tens of thousands of trail miles, the authors have listed what they believe to be Oregon’s very best backpacking trips. The emphasis is on longer trips—from three days to two weeks. These are beyond a simple weekend outing, but they make terrific vacations and give you enough time to fully appreciate the scenery. Best of all, you’ll have the chance to get to know and love the country.

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Each featured trip begins with an information box that provides a quick overview of the hike’s vital statistics and important features. This lets you rapidly narrow down your options based on your preferences, your abilities, how many days you have available, and the time of year.

Scenery This is the authors’ subjective opinion of the trip’s overall scenic quality, on a 1 (an eyesore) to 10 (drop-dead gorgeous) scale. This