Stripping and servicing the Theoben Rapid 7

BUDDY BOTTLE REMOVAL

This procedure should be well known to all Rapid users. Unscrew the bottle about half a turn and then dry fire about half a dozen shots. Repeat this step three or four times until no air is expelled on firing. This is known as 'bleeding the action'.

If the bottle were to be unscrewed with the action fully pressurised, a loud 'POP' would be heard from the inlet valve. This high speed discharge of air can damage the buddy bottle O ring.

STOCK REMOVAL

The stock is held in place by 2 Allen bolts, to the front and rear of the trigger

guard. The rear bolt is 3/4" 2BA, front is 1" 1/4" UNF. Allen key sizes: 5/32" & 1/8" respectively.

INLET VALVE

To remove the inlet valve, first clamp the action in a vice (use a rag or cloth to protect the action). There are 2 milled flats on either side of the valve and you will need a 21mm spanner on here. The inlet valves are usually very tight to prevent the unit being unscrewed on removal of the buddy bottle.

If the valve is too tight to remove by hand (as is usually the case), 'shock' it loose by tapping the end of the spanner with a hammer to 'crack' it loose, then unscrew by hand.

There is an 'O' ring at the top of the thread (015 Ni 90), this should be replaced and a small amount of Molykote 33 applied to the new ring.

VALVE BLANKING PLUG

The valve blanking plug is located above the inlet valve, Allen key size is 3/16". This should be removed and the 'O' ring replaced (015 Ni 90).

EXHAUST VALVE REMOVAL

On the right hand side of the action there is a 4BA grub screw, just in front of the breech area.

This should be removed first. The grub screw aligns the transfer ports and secures the valve inside the action.

With the rifle pointing downwards, cock and fire the action. The exhaust valve should drop out of the top hole in the front of the action (from where you removed the blanking plug).

SERVICING THE VALVE

There are two types of exhaust valve on the Mk I Rapids, a metal valve (stainless steel), and a black Acetal valve (fitted to all models produced in '99 or later).

To service the metal valve

The metal valve comprises two sections, the body and the cap. To remove the cap, you will have to slide a collet over the valve cap, and clamp in a vice (not too tight, or the cap will be distorted). A small rod should be inserted into the transfer port of the valve body for use as a lever to unscrew the cap.

With the cap removed, the white 008 seal can be replaced together with the 011 Ni 90 'O' ring. Apply a small amount of Molykote 33 to the seals and reassemble the valve.

Pick off the 'O' ring around the external circumference of the valve. It is located in a small undercut at the front of the valve body. Replace the 'O' ring and apply Molykote 33.

The last 'O' ring to be changed is on the tail of the valve body. After applying a small amount of Molykote 33, the valve is ready to be replaced.

To service the black acetal valve

This is a one piece valve and is usually completely replaced on a service.

The unit only has two external 'O' rings, one around the external circumference of the body and one at the tail.

EXHAUST VALVE STEM

There may be either one or two 'O' rings on the valve stem, depending on which type you have. The 'O' ring(s) should be picked off and replaced and a small amount of Molykote 33 applied to the new ones.

HAMMER/SPRING & INERTIA WEIGHT ASSEMBLY

This assembly is accessed through the rear of the action. Unscrew the stainless cap at the rear, and then remove parts as follows: Hammer spring guide (if applicable), hammer spring, and finally the hammer (containing the washer, inertia weight and return spring).

The hammer should be reassembled dry, as any lubrication will cause drag, slowing its travel, thus reducing power.

BARREL REMOVAL

First you will need to remove the front scope mount.

Beneath the front mount, you will find a small (2BA 3/16") grub screw, which is the barrel locating screw. This should be removed.

All that remains is to loosen off the barrel clamp (2BA 3/4" Allen bolt), then the barrel can slide free of the action.

NOTE. On the barrel there is a blind hole at the top for location, the transfer port

is on the underside.

It is essential to align properly the 2BA grub screw in the blind hole, so that the transfer port is not obstructed, thus restricting the airflow.

BUDDY BOTTLE

Finally, all that remains is to change the buddy bottle 'O' ring (111 Ni90), and apply a small amount of Molykote 33.

REBUILD

Rebuild in reverse order. Points to watch out for:

Make sure the exhaust valve is properly aligned (4BA grub screw to the blind hole). When replacing the 4BA grub screw, screw it down until it contacts the valve body, then back off 1/4 turn. Replace the valve assembly and the valve blanking plug BEFORE you replace the inlet valve, which sits on top of the blanking plug.

When refitting the buddy bottle, make sure the rifle is cocked and the bolt is locked down in the REARWARD position. This removes hammer spring tension from the exhaust valve allowing the stem to seat properly, thus sealing air pressure within the rifle.

If you fail to do this, you will most probably have all the air from your buddy bottle leak right through the action and out of the barrel.

CHRONOGRAPH

You should now check the rifle over a chronograph and adjust the power accordingly via the stainless adjuster at the rear of the action.

WARNING! Do not attempt to adjust the rifle above 12ft.lbs as the exhaust valve stem is designed to back up against the valve blanking plug and bend itself, should too much force be exerted upon it by the hammer. The stem will no longer sit concentrically on the valve seat, and subsequently all the air from the buddy bottle will be exhausted through the barrel, rendering the rifle useless!