SEARCH & DESTROY FIRE TRAINING D.I.Y.

T-T-L TRAINING PROP

Greetings from Search & Destroy Fire Training, and from Metro-Detroit! This is a short PDF with pictures about the T-T-L training prop we use in our forcible entry classes. Lots of pics. It took us awhile to refine the hardware and it works well, but like anything, theres always room for improvement! Id love to see any mods or improvements you make. Email pics to: seanjwilson@hotmail.com . Ill warn ya: its not cheap training to offer. Our T-T-L class is by far our most expensive class. The prop itself isnt terribly expensive, but we use real key-in-knob, tubular deadbolts, and rim lock cylinders. Youll get multiple forces out of each lock, and they can be rehabbed with the use of a hammer and a bench vise, but in the long run they are sacrificial. We have the good fortune of having pals at several locksmith shops and door/window companies so we get a lot of our supplies for free, but these locks are expensive if you have to buy them. You could also look at having a fabricating shop make mock-ups that are more durable. We like using real locks because they behave in odd, realistic ways and every lock is slightly different.

PLATES: There are two steel plates mounted on either side of this commercial-grade door. These plates reinforce the door and make it possible to repeatedly pull locks without undue damage to the door. These plates are HEAVY. You could consider using 3/16 steel, but I wouldnt go lighter than that. The front plate and both sides of the door have circular holes drilled in it. Use a 2-1/8 bi-metal hole saw for key-in-knob and deadbolts, and a 1-1/8 bi-metal hole saw for rim lock cylinders. These holes are also drilled thru the front of the door. The back plate has a thin slit cut into it to allow the machine screws holding the locks thru. Not my neatest work, as I just free-handed it with an angle-grinder, but it gets the job done.

HARDWARE: #6 x 4 machine screws. You can also use #8 or #10 screws if youd like a tougher force. #8 or #10 flat washers. 1/8 x 3/4 fender washers. #6 wing nuts, or the size to match the whatever size machine screws you end up using.

Grainger will sell all of this, and will be the best pricing when buying in bulk. Dont waste your time at Lowes/Home Depot, and most mom-&-pop hardware stores will be more expensive. I recommend ordering online from Grainger. You can get away with using 3 machine screws for the rim lock cylinders and most key-in-knob locks, but you flat out have to use 4 for deadbolts. I dont like the hassle of mixing and matching so we just use 4 for everything. The machine screws are completely sacrificial by the way, they simulate the actual lock-set screws that are destroyed in a real-world force. Two screws = one force. The washers and wing nuts can be re-used, but will require sorting, which is good sit-down work at the fire station while watching The Simpsons.

DEADBOLTS: Cheaper deadbolts have holes that run thru the cylinder on either side of the keyway. These are the screw receptacles for the lock-set screws that hold the lock-set together, these holes are usually covered by a thin decorative sheet metal. Most can be easily punched thru from the front with a hammer and a punch. Some better brands, like Schlage, are one cast piece and will have to be drilled out. This is worth the effort because they will hold up well to repeated forces. You can use a Rex Bar if youd like for these, but you will blow thru your deadbolts in no time. Unless you have a cheap and plentiful supply, or you want to build the cost into the class and just accept that it wont be a cheap class, I recommend using a Mini Pro Bar instead. Thats actually my preference in the real-world for DBs and key-in-knobs. Just my personal preference.

KEY-IN-KNOB: The lock-side of KIK locks will require drilling out to receive the screws. The back side are pre-drilled and work just fine for forcing, so use them as they will help stretch your supply. If you get any commercial cylindrical locks, they will have to be drilled out as well. These are great and hold up exceptionally well for repeated forcings. Ive found that in the real-world, these are some of the easiest locks to pull because of how beefy they are.

RIM LOCKS: We use Ilco brand replacement rim lock cylinders. These are by far the most expensive part of this training. Bought new, these are about $5 a pop (Rons Hardware, online), and can be used 3-4 times at most IF the force is done correctly with a K-Tool or Rex Bar. Use a punch to punch thru the holes in the decorative sheet metal on the cylinder face. With other brands, youll have to drill these holes out, which is why we prefer Ilco. Cut the tail off so the lock cylinder will fit into the prop. If your students dont get a good, solid bite on the body of the lock, theyll rip the weak lock-face off, leaving the cylinder intact in the door. Somebody does this every class, and its a good learning moment so that you can reinforce good technique. Another reason we like to use real locks.

INSERT THE LOCKS: Insert the locks into the door, push the machine screws thru the slits in the back plate.

ATTACHING THE LOCKS: Attach the locks by putting a fender washer and wing nut on the back of each machine screw. Hand-tight will do, you dont need to reef down on it.

MORTISE SPIN-OUT: We also do a mortise spin-out. I get a pretty good price from one of my lock-smith pals that sells me set-screws for Adams-Rite locks at his cost. Theyre 50 cents apiece, which again, isnt cheap, but we like the real-world feel as much as we can get. If you have to pay retail, youre looking at between 70 and 90 cents per screw. Ive tried using regular sheet metal screws, but they dont break, they just skip out and grind down. Like I said, we like the real-world feel, so we pay for the real thing. I just love the looks on FFs faces when they see how astoundingly easy it is to break a set screw with a 10 pair of vise-grips or channel-locks. We mount four of these Adams-Rite locks for quick re-set.

SEARCH & DESTROY FIRE TRAINING

SEAN J. WILSON & SCOTT A. GARDNER, LEAD INSTRUCTORS 5150 HAMPSHIRE DRIVE / SHELBY TWP, MI 48316 586-231-1478 SEARCHANDDESTROYFE@ME.COM
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