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07-23-2009, 01:25 AM
RotaryResurrection
engine builder
Here is a writeup to go with my engine removal how-to elsewhere. After the engine is pulled out of the car in it's complete form, you'll usually be either rebuilding the existing engine block, or using an off your block. There are many ways of doing this, but this method is the most efficient and probably the fastest. Knowing exactly in what order to do things and where each bolt and plug is helps a lot
This also assists customers of mine who wish to send in their engine block for rebuild. Although I do offer a "longblock" service whereby customers can send their complete engine (as shown below), th exchange a bare shortblock, which is what you will end up with at the end of this writeup. When it is engine rebuild time for you guys, remember which builder took time to photo document, transcribe, and post this procedure for free on your forum for your assistance.
Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Morristown, Tn (east of Knoxville) Posts: 994
First we have the engine hanging here on the hoist exactly as I pull it out of the car.
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Now, I will obviously be using an engine stand, although it is NOT a requirement...it just makes things easier and less messy. A few things have to be removed before the engine stand head can be mo Remove the front oil cooler line. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the engine ground bracket to the bottom of the intermediate iron on the driver side. Remove the retaining clip and unplug the oil level sensor in the drivers side of the oilpan. This wire is clipped onto the aforementioned bracket, so separate this clip from the bracket.
Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding down the coil brackets to the front cover. UNplug the 4 coils and the plug wires. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the alternator wire on to the alternator, remove the c
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Unbolt knock sensor from rear rotor housing. Remove spark plugs. Use a 24mm socket to remove the oil pressure sending unit.
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Remove air control valve...disconnect vacuum hose, remove bolt on top bracket, and 2 bolts on exhaust manifold. Disconnect wiring harness clip.
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Remove both fuel lines from the retaining clips under the intake manifold on the drivers side. Simply pry the clips apart with a small screwdriver.
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Use a long extension and socket to remove the 2) 10mm bolts facing down from the retaining clip under the intake manifold.
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Remove upper intake manifold. Disconnect vacuum hose from the rear drivers side, 5 bolts on passenger side top, plug to vacuum solenoid on top front behind the oil filler neck, 1 coolant hose on top o electrical connector to the throttlebody. Lift upper intake/throttlebody combo off carefully.
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remove oil filler neck. Remove 3 solenoid plugs from the back, 2 vacuum solenoids from port actuators, harness clip, and 2 nuts at base of the neck.
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Remove a/c belt tensioner from front cover.Unbolt crank angle sensor and remove clips holding harness to front cover. Lay aside on top of the engine harness.
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__________________ 02 Denali: Intake, tune, z06 cam, drop, 24's, full a/v system 04 RX-8: AT to MT swapped 85 Corvette: fully restored
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07-23-2009, 01:39 AM
RotaryResurrection
engine builder
Remove air hose to vacuum splitter at the base of the primary fuel injector rail.
Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Morristown, Tn (east of Knoxville) Posts: 994
Unplug all 6 fuel injectors (4 for automatic 4port models)...label each as you do for clarification later as they can be easy to mix up.
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Unplug and remove from bracket, the plug for the microswitch on the port actuator. Unplug coolant temp sensor. Unplug aux port actuator solenoid. Remove water pump pulley.
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Unplug OMP connectors, unclip harness from front cover, lift and lay aside with rest of engine wiring harness.
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Unbolt harness retaining bracket from top of block (4 bolts total) and remove bracket/harness as a unit.
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Remove fuel line between primary and secondary fuel rail, at secondary fuel rail blue clip.
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Unbolt and remove lower intake manifold, being careful of auxiliary port sleeves that come out of the block with the manifold. Sometimes it takes several tugs and pushes to get these out of the block
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Remove rear oil cooler line and oil filter pedestal as a unit.
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Remove small rear coolant line from passenger side of rear iron.
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Remove clutch and flywheel. If you are sending an engine to me (or most other engine builders) you can leave the flywheel in place for me to remove for you, as it requires a special socket to remove,
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07-23-2009, 01:42 AM
RotaryResurrection
engine builder
Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Morristown, Tn (east of Knoxville) Posts: 994
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Flip the engine over, remove the oil pan and pickup tube. Use a stiff putty knife and hammer it between the engine and oil pan in one corner. Then hammer the putty knife from the side, all around the the flange.
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07-23-2009, 02:32 AM
Brettus
K1W1 333whp club founder
Good work . Will keep this handy for next time i take the engine out BTW that engine looks to have some serious oil control issues !!! __________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mawnee I will now be offering my Turbo kit to the public! This kit is capable of producing 900 crank HP. It is possible that I may have at one time in some way perhaps hit these numbers in my own may or may not, though probably not(though you could get lucky!) contain a turbo capable of these numbers.
Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Y-cat-o NZ Posts: 10,164
07-23-2009, 06:23 PM
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rotarygod
Proud to be arrogant!
Oil o-ring failure on the rear rotor? __________________ "None of us on our own is as dumb as all of us combined." "Torque is a variable. Horsepower is the answer!" "Meat is murder, tasty tasty murder!"
Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Houston Posts: 8,781
07-23-2009, 06:24 PM
Renesis SE3P
Poop on a stick!
Please refrain from being an RX-8 fanboi. RX-8 fanboiz are gay, are you gay?
Mods - Ebay fart can, Ebay Power Chip, Electric Turbonator, Vortex, Blinker Fluid, Drilled Slotted Brake Line
Trader Score: (21) Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: SoCal Posts: 3,846
07-23-2009, 06:24 PM
Jedi54
Zaino Master
excellent DIY RR. I'm hoping I never need this info but if I do.... Thanks. __________________
Trader Score: (5) Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Newport Coast, Ca Posts: 17,174
Jedi54's Garage
07-23-2009, 06:59 PM
RotaryResurrection
engine builder
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotarygod Oil o-ring failure on the rear rotor?
oil starvation to rear rotor and rear main...destroyed both adjacent irons, rotor, shaft, all bearings, rear rotor oil control rings, cutoff rings, and side seals. Here is the teardown if you're interested in looking, but I warn you, it's ugly...
Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Morristown, Tn (east of Knoxville) Posts: 994
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/builds.php/campos
09-10-2009, 08:35 PM
@!!narotordo
FLAME ON!
Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Strip Club Posts: 955
09-10-2009, 10:01 PM
nycgps
A FC3S and SE3P guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection oil starvation to rear rotor and rear main...destroyed both adjacent irons, rotor, shaft, all bearings, rear rotor oil control rings, cutoff rings, and side seals. Here is the teardown if you're interested in looking, but I warn you, it's ugly... http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/builds.php/campos
wow ... just finished looking at those pics. 1/2 of them are trash __________________ Next time if you want to say something, please shut up. Thanks!
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Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: New York City Posts: 14,214
09-10-2009, 10:04 PM
Atilla
IT'S ADVENTURE TIME!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RIWWP
WET ASS
Trader Score: (0) Join Date: May 2007 Location: Caca Cali Posts: 5,073
10-30-2009, 09:11 PM
diabolical1
i'm the undead
i can't wait to get my hands on one of these things! __________________ 1984 Mazda Rx-7 (in gestation once again) 2004 Mazda Rx-8
Quote: Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 216
Originally Posted by ricky356 ...and i would put money on it you have neither an 8 or 350....or any friends for that matter. and your mom cant stand the thought she birthed you.
10-30-2009, 09:15 PM
ZumnRx8
RX8 & RX7 owner
i hate because i have no skills near this.. __________________ RX7club.com & RX8club.com username= ZumnRX8 8/2010 - Proud Owner of a 1988 RX7 Convertible N/A Red All Originial- . 9/2005 - Proud Owner of a 2004 RX8 GT+Navi, Winning Blue Blown & Being Rebuilt
Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: So. California Posts: 4,433
10-31-2009, 01:00 PM
RotaryResurrection
engine builder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atilla's signature
Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Morristown, Tn (east of Knoxville) Posts: 994
Quote:
Originally Posted by diabolical1 i can't wait to get my hands on one of these things!
hmmm.....
11-30-2009, 10:18 PM
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zacknolden
Registered User Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection Here is a writeup to go with my engine removal how-to elsewhere. After the engine is pulled out of the car in it's complete form, you'll usually be either rebuilding the existing engine block, or using anothe off your block. There are many ways of doing this, but this method is the most efficient and probably the fastest. Knowing exactly in what order to do things and where each bolt and plug is helps a lot.
This also assists customers of mine who wish to send in their engine block for rebuild. Although I do offer a "longblock" service whereby customers can send their complete engine (as shown below), the g or exchange a bare shortblock, which is what you will end up with at the end of this writeup. When it is engine rebuild time for you guys, remember which builder took time to photo document, transcribe, and post this procedure for free on your forum for your assistance. First we have the engine hanging here on the hoist exactly as I pull it out of the car.
Now, I will obviously be using an engine stand, although it is NOT a requirement...it just makes things easier and less messy. A few things have to be removed before the engine stand head can be mount Remove the front oil cooler line. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the engine ground bracket to the bottom of the intermediate iron on the driver side. Remove the retaining clip and unplug the oil level sensor in the drivers side of the oilpan. This wire is clipped onto the aforementioned bracket, so separate this clip from the bracket.
Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding down the coil brackets to the front cover. UNplug the 4 coils and the plug wires. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the alternator bracket on to the alternator, remove the cl etc. At this point the engine can be mounted on the engine stand. Unbolt knock sensor from rear rotor housing. Remove spark plugs. Use a 24mm socket to remove the oil pressure sending unit. Remove rear heater core hose from pipe on rear iron. Remove air control valve...disconnect vacuum hose, remove bolt on top bracket, and 2 bolts on exhaust manifold. Disconnect wiring harness clip. Remove exhaust manifold and gasket. Remove both fuel lines from the retaining clips under the intake manifold on the drivers side. Simply pry the clips apart with a small screwdriver. Use a long extension and socket to remove the 2) 10mm bolts facing down from the retaining clip under the intake manifold.
Remove upper intake manifold. Disconnect vacuum hose from the rear drivers side, 5 bolts on passenger side top, plug to vacuum solenoid on top front behind the oil filler neck, 1 coolant hose on top of th electrical connector to the throttlebody. Lift upper intake/throttlebody combo off carefully.
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remove oil filler neck. Remove 3 solenoid plugs from the back, 2 vacuum solenoids from port actuators, harness clip, and 2 nuts at base of the neck.
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Remove a/c belt tensioner from front cover.Unbolt crank angle sensor and remove clips holding harness to front cover. Lay aside on top of the engine harness.
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I'm gonna need this detailed DIY. I just got my work messed up following just indtructions without any illustrations. _______________________________________________ Hit the Road with SEMO
12-01-2009, 01:36 AM
RotaryResurrection
engine builder
Quote:
Originally Posted by zacknolden I'm gonna need this detailed DIY. I just got my work messed up following just indtructions without any illustrations.
Wat?
Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Morristown, Tn (east of Knoxville) Posts: 994
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12-01-2009, 02:13 AM
@!!narotordo
FLAME ON!
Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Strip Club Posts: 955
12-04-2009, 11:21 AM
RotaryResurrection
engine builder
Wat?
Trader Score: (1) Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Morristown, Tn (east of Knoxville) Posts: 994
12-21-2009, 11:18 PM
Schartz
Duluth/Superior
How many miles where on the engine when you started taking it apart?
Trader Score: (3) Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Soup Town Posts: 24
02-28-2010, 01:22 AM
Nemesis8
Bigus Rotus
I would so purchase a bolt kit for all the bolts used in this tear-down, if it was available. It would be awesome to have a set in a bag labeled for what they are. I have a project I could use them on. __________________ vGarage
Trader Score: (3) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Banks of The Muddy Wishkah Posts: 8,184
03-14-2010, 04:31 PM
TeamRX8
The Unknown Autocrosser
the parts PDFs which will show what and where __________________ Doesn't play well with others self-imposed ban to non-text mode
Trader Score: (5) Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: In your mind & under your oversensitive skin Posts: 9,842
03-14-2010, 07:29 PM
dannobre
Back is Back...Front next
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Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Smallville Posts: 6,838
03-14-2010, 07:37 PM
Nemesis8
Bigus Rotus
Trader Score: (3) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Banks of The Muddy Wishkah Posts: 8,184
06-13-2010, 05:44 AM
king angels
Registered User Trader Score: (0) Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 3
Best advice if you are on a budget low miles van at junk yard but if u want take too machine shop complete head work about 250-325 but first just have the junk yards heads checked if bad take the time there okay. __________________ Toronto Limousine Services | Splash Surf Mag Blog | Silver and Teal Blog
06-13-2010, 12:26 PM
shadycrew31
Registered User Trader Score: (2) Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 1,417
^ spam?
06-13-2010, 12:26 PM
RX8Club
Mazda RX8
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