Thread Consumption Methods

In todays competitive marketplace, there is a need for tight cost control. A realistic estimation of potential thread requirements for particular garment styles or contracts will not only end up saving you money, but also enable you to use a superior thread for the same cost, thereby not compromising on garment quality. Several factors determine the extent of thread consumption in any sewn product, such as stitch type, seam type, material thickness, number of layers, construction and SPI (stitches per inch). However, these factors are not constant with the different style preferences. Hence, thread consumption is never standard for sewn product categories such as shirts, trousers and footwear. There are two methods generally used to calculate the amount of thread in a seam and hence the thread consumption in the sewn product: 1. By measuring the actual amount of thread consumed 2. By calculation using thread consumption ratios 1. Measuring Actual Thread Consumed A specified length of a given seam is measured and then the thread is pulled out of this length. We can use the amount pulled out of this specified length to calculate the ratio of thread consumed in the entire seam. By dividing the amount of thread by the seam length, we get the ratio of thread consumed. If we multiply this factor times the total length of seam, we can determine the total thread consumed for that seam.

Example: Length of seam = 100 cm (1 metre) Stitch class 401 = 2-Thread Chain stitch Length of seam for which thread is removed = 15 cm Needle thread removed = 19.5 cm Needle thread factor = 19.5/15 = 1.3 Looper thread removed = 62.0 cm x 1.3 Looper thread factor = 62.0/15 = 4.1 Total Needle thread = 100 cm x 1.3 = 130 cm Total Looper thread = 100 cm x 4.1 = 410 cm Total thread consumed = 130 + 410 = 540 cm Add 15% wastage* = 540 cm x 1.15 = 621 cm *Generally, 10% to 15% wastage of thread is added to the consumption derived. This wastage occurs due to shop-floor conditions like machine running, thread breakage, repairs, etc. The above example shows the total thread consumed for one type of stitch class in a garment. By following a similar procedure, you can calculate the thread consumed for different stitching operations in a garment.
2. Thread Consumption Ratios The easier method is to use the generally applicable Thread Consumption Ratios for the various stitch types that are listed in the table below. By relating these ratios to the length of seams using each stitch type, total thread consumption can be calculated.

Note: 1. The above ratios are arrived at with a stitch density of 7 stitches per cm (18 stitches per inch). 2. These ratios are the prescribed minimum in regular conditions and marginally vary with the factors affecting thread consumption. 3. A certain percentage of wastage is to be added to the above ratios as per shop floor conditions. It may vary from 10% to 15%.

Example: Length of seam = 100 cm (1 metre) Stitch class 401 = 2-Thread Chainstitch From the table, total thread usage per cm of seam = 5.5 cm Total thread consumption = 100 cm x 5.5 = 550 cm Estimated Needle thread = 550 x 0.25 = 138 cm Estimated Looper thread = 550 x 0.75 = 412 cm Add 15% wastage = 550 cm x 1.15 = 633 cm of thread per seam By applying thread consumption ratios in a manner similar to the calculation in the above example, a sample consumption working for an average sized knitted t-shirt is shown in the table below.

Example Thread consumption for an average-sized knitted t-shirt

These days, thread consumption and costing can be calculated without the need to pick the thread from seams. Coats' Seamworks is a sewing management software solution that can accurately calculate thread consumption and costing for a single sewn product or production run or any number of sewing machines. Seamworks helps to reduce thread wastage and can give you a competitive edge through cost effective sewing thread procurement. Ask your local Coats contact about Seamworks. Note: Stitch density, stitch / seam chioce, variations in style, fabric thickness and number of plies are factors that can affect thread consumption. It is also necessary to make provision for possible thread wastage (usually 15%) while calculating thread consumption.

Average Thread Consumption

The table below gives the average thread lengths consumed for different types of garments, drawn from our experience. These figures include 5% wastage allowance:

Coats Seamworks
Apart from the two regular methods that are used, there is a quick, simple and efficient option available to our customers called Coats Seamworks. Using this software, it is possible to calculate thread consumption metering and costing without having to pick up the thread from the seam. Seamworks is a sewing management software solution that can calculate thread consumption for any sewn product. Not only does it calculate the consumption for a single product, it also enables you to choose the right thread ordering pattern, which is necessary for optimal usage of the ordered thread in the shop floor. Salient features: Easy-to-use familiar Explorer-type interface Support for metric and imperial measurement systems Increased data integrity Enhanced calculation engine Multi-lingual support

Fixed Weight and Fixed Length Numbering Systems

All numbering systems used to indicate thread size are either fixed weight or fixed length systems.

Generally, Metric count is used to describe synthetic, spun and core spun thread while English count is used to specify cotton thread. Filament threads are normally expressed with Decitex or Denier. Resultant Thread Size When more than one ply of yarn is twisted into a thread, finding the resultant size of the thread by considering all the plies becomes necessary. In fixed weight systems: Resultant size = Individual yarn count / Number of plies In fixed length systems: Resultant size = Individual yarn count x Number of plies A particular resultant size can be made with any number of plies.

Count Conversions
Using the table below will enable you to perform a simple conversion from one system to another.

Ticket Numbering
Ticket numbering is a commercial numbering system. Ticket numbers are merely the manufacturers reference numbers for the size of a given thread.

The Metric Count, Cotton Count and Denier Systems use ticket numbering system to give an easy approximation of the specific size of the finished thread.

A ticket number in one type of thread will not be the same as in another. For example, Ticket 40 Cotton is not the same as Ticket 40 Corespun. Ticket numbers resemble the fixed weight system. They can simply denote: Higher the ticket number, finer the thread. Lower the ticket number, thicker the thread. Converting sizes for synthetic products Arriving at a Ticket Number

Note:
To convert any Tex Number to a Ticket Number value: divide 1,000 by the Tex number and multiply by 3. To establish the Tex of a particular Ticket number, please contact your nearest Coats office. Cotton threads are rarely used today, so ticket numbers for cotton threads are not discussed here.

Communicating Thread Size with Ticket Numbers

In the thread industry, different countries follow different ticket numbers. Knowing different ticket number conventions for a certain thread size and the corresponding Tex size will aid you in thread selection. Ticket numbers of three different Coats threads
specified by different ticketing systems are given in the tables that follow.

Different Ticketing Systems Polyester / Cotton Corespun (Coats Dual Duty)

Different Ticketing Systems Polyester Corespun (Coats Epic)

Different Ticketing Systems Staple Spun Polyester (Coats Astra)

To Convert From

To

Multiply by

Threads in Fabric: Number per inch Stitches in Fabric: Number per inch Mass per unit area: Ounce per sq. yard Gram per sq. metre Momme Twist Level Turns per inch Dimetre 1/1000 inch inch inch Cover Factor a. Woven cotton fabrics

Number per centimetre Number per centimetre Gram per sq. metre Momme Ounce per sq. yard Turns per metre Micrometre millimetre centimetre

0.3937 0.3937 33.906 0.23 0.128 39.37 25.4 25.4 25.4 0.957

b.Weft knitted worsted fabric

1.172

Twist factor (or multiplier)

9.57

Gram force Pound Force Kilogram Force Tearing Strength Pound Force Tenacity Gram force per denier Bursting Pressure Pound force per sq.inch

Millinewton Newton Decanewton Newton Millinewton per Tex

9.81 4.45 0.98 4.45 88.3

Kilonewtons per square metre 6.89

Conversion Factors for Common Use

To Convert From To Multiply by

Length Inches(in) Feet(ft) Land miles(=5280 ft) Nautical miles(=6080 ft)

Centimetres(cm) Metres(m) Kilometres(km) Kilometres(km)

2.54 0.3048 1.609544 1.85327

Area Square inches(in2) Square feet(ft2 Square miles Acres Acres Capacity/Volume Cubic inches(in3) Cubic feet(ft3)) UK gallons US gallons Quart UK pint US Pint Weight/Mass Ounces(oz) Pounds(lb) Long tons(=2240 lb) (=1.016 tonnes(t)) Temperature Farenheit(F) Length Centimetres(cm) Metres(m) Kilometres(km) Kilometres(km) Area Square centimetres(cm2) Square metres(m2) Square kilometres(km2) Square kilometres(km2) Hectares(ha) Capacity/Volume Cubic centimetres(cm3) Cubic metres(m3) Litres Litres Pint Millilitres(ml) Milliletres(ml) Weight/Mass Grams(g) Kilograms(kg) Kilograms(kg) Temperature Celsius/Centigrade(oC)

Square centimetres(cm2) Square metres(m2 Square kilometres(km2) Square kilometres(km2) Hectares(ha) Cubic centimetres(cm3) Cubic metres(m3) Litres Litres Pint Milliletres(ml) Milliletre(ml) Grams(g) Kilograms(kg) Kilograms(kg)

6.452 0.092903 2.58999 0.004047 0.404686 16.387 0.0285 4.546 3.785 2 568 473 28.3495 0.45559 1016.05

Celsius/Centigrade(oC) Inches(in) Feet(ft) Land miles(=5280 ft) Nautical miles(=6080 ft) Square inches(in2) Sqaure feet(ft2) Sqare miles Acres Acres Cubic inches(in3) Cubic feet(ft3) UK galons US gallons Quart UK Pint US Pint Ounces(oz) Pounds(lb) Long tons(=2240 lb) (=1.016 tonnes) Farenheit(F)

(F-32) & 0.5555 0.3937 3.2808 0.62137 0.53961 0.155 10.7639 0.3861 247.105 247.105 0.06102 35.3147 0.21997 0.2642 0.5 0.00176 0.00211 0.03527 2.20462 0.00098 (oC * 1.8)+ 32

1. Reed Count It is calculated in stock port system.No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count. Reed Count = EPI/(1 + Weft crimp %age) 2. Reed Width Reed Width = Cloth Width *(100+ weft crimp %age)/100 3. Crimp Percentage Crimp %age = {(Warp length - Cloth length)/Cloth Length}* 100 Crimp %age = {(Warp width - Cloth width)/Cloth width}* 100 4. Cloth Cover Factor

a.

b. c. Cloth Cover Factor = Wp.C.F +Wt.C.F. - {(Wp.C.F. - Wt.C.F)/28} 5. Maximum EPI for particular count . a.

b. c. other design = (Ends /Repeat * 1/Yarn Diametre)/ (No of intersections/repeat+ ends/repeat)

d. 6. Warp Density

= <350 Weave Density = 50+{(Warp Density - 100) * F.D - 100} /{(Weft Density - 100)* F.D 100} Effective Weave Density = W. D x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72
Wp / filling - K Loom Width - K Weave Design - K

Cotton = 1.00 Polyester/Cotton = 1.03 Viscose Filament = 1.17

140 cm - 0.99 Plain1/1 = 1.00 180 cm - 1.00 Twill 1/2 = 0.87 190 cm - 1.01 Matt, Gabardine 2/2 = 0.82

Polyester Filament = 1.22 220 cm - 1.02 Drill 1/3 = 0.77

Wp / filling - K

Loom Width - K

Weave Design - K

250 cm - 1.08 Satin 1/4 = 0.69 330 cm - 1.15 360 cm 1.20

7. To change the count and the number of thread / inch , keeping the same denseness of fabric To change the count without altering the denseness of the fabric EPI in Exp.cloth = (EPI in exp.Cloth2/EPI in given cloth) * count in given cloth To change the EPI without altering the denseness of the fabric

8. Warp requirement to weave the cloth Warp weight in grams /metre = {(Total Ends * 1.0936 * 453.59 * crimp %)/(840 * count)} * wastage % Weft weight in grams /metre ={(R.S. in inches * 453.59 * PPI)/(840 * count)} * wastage % * crimp % Cloth length in metres with given weft weight=( weft weight in kgs * weft count * 1848 * 0.9144)/(PPI * R.S in inches)

For silk and Polyester

Warp weight in grams /metre ={(Total Ends * count (Denier) )/9000} * wastage % * crimp % Weft weight in grams /metre = {(R.S in inches * count(Denier)* PPI)/9000}* wastage % * crimp %

Allowance for count in bleached and Dyed fabric 1.Count becomes 4% 2. FinerDyed counts become max 6% Coarser 9. Fabric Production Calculation Loom Speed = Motor RPM * (Motor Pully Diametre)/(Loom Pully Diametre) Loom Effeciency Percentage = (Actual Production/Calculated Production )* 100 Moisture Regain Percentage = {(Yarn Weight - Dried Yarn Weight)/Dried Yarn weight} * 100 Moistue Content Percentage = {(Yarn Weight - Dried Yarn Weight)/Yarn weight} * 100
Type of Yarn Moisture Regain % Moisture Content %

Cotton Jute Silk

8.50 13.75 11.00

7.83 12.10 9.91

Type of Yarn

Moisture Regain % Moisture Content %

Rayon, Viscose 11.00 Wool Nylon

10.

9.91 14.50 3.78

17.00 4.20

Warp Weight in Kg = (Total Ends * Tape Length in metres)/(1693.6 * Warp Count) Weft Weight in Kg = (R.S in centimetres * cloth length in metres * PPI )/(4301.14 * weft Count) Cloth weight in GSM = {EPI/Warp Cout)+(PPI/Weft count)}* 25.6 oz (ounce ) per sq. yard = GSM(Grams per sq. metre)/34 11. Material Measurement To calculate the length of any rolled fabrics, this formula gives the nearest accuracy. L = {0.0655(D-d)(D+d)}/t Where L = Length of material (Feet) t = Thickness of fabrics (inches) D = Outside diameter (inches) d = Inside diameter (inches)

12. Weight of yarn in a cloth The weight of cloth manufactured on looms depends upon the weight of yarns in thewarp and weft: ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp. Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All inlbs.) Where as Weight of warp in lbs. = (Total No. of Ends * Tape Length in Yards)/(840 * warp yarn count)

Also