Simplified Life Cycle Assessment

Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain

Activity 1: Manufacturing LCA and Local IEMs Capacity Assessment

May 2009 SCI-Pak (2009-2012)

CPI
Cleaner Production Institute

Simplified Life Cycle Assessment

Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain

May 2009 Sustainable Cleaner Production in the Manufacturing Industries of Pakistan SCI-Pak (2009-2012)

CPI
Cleaner Production Institute

Perfect SITE, Plot No: 18, 22 KM Ferozepur Road, Near Masjid Ibrahim, Lahore Tel: +92-42-5273741-46, Fax: +92-42-5273750, cpi-pak@nexlinx.net.pk www.cpi.org.pk

CONTENTS
Contents List of tables Introduction Methodology and approach Life cycle phases Agriculture/raw fiber production Ginning Spinning Weaving Processing Stitching Distribution/retail Use/consumption and end of life Environmental aspect significance assessment Environmental aspect significance of the agricultural phase Environmental aspect significance of the ginning phase Environmental aspect significance of the spinning phase Environmental aspect significance of the weaving phase Environmental aspect significance of the processing phase Environmental aspect significance of the stitching phase Environmental aspect significance of the distribution/retail phase Environmental aspect significance of the use/consumption and end of life phase Life cycle phase significance assessment Hot spot identification Conclusion i i 1 1 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 4 4 5 7 9 10 12 13 14 15 15 16 20

1.0 2.0 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 5.0 6.0 7.0

LIST OF TABLES
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Agriculture phase aspect significance Ginning phase aspect significance Spinning phase aspect significance Weaving phase aspect significance Processing phase aspect significance Stitching phase aspect significance Distribution/retail phase aspect significance Use/consumption and end of life phase aspect significance Life cycle phase significance Hot spot identification Hot spots
i

5 7 9 10 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain

SCI-Pak 2009-2012

1.0 Introduction
Sustainable and Cleaner Production in the Manufacturing Industries of Pakistan (SCI-Pak) is a three year capacity building project under SWITCH-ASIA. SWITCH-ASIA, the new regional environmental programme in line with the EC (European Commission) Regional Paper for assistance to Asia (2007-2013), is aiming to promote the adoption of Sustainable Consumption and Production (SCP) among small and medium sized enterprises (SMEs) and consumer groups in Asia. SCI-Pak is partly funded by the European Union. The project is directed to the Asian industrial sectors. The main purpose is to provide the tannery and textile SMEs entrepreneurs with a multidimensional approach to engage into Sustainable Production (SP) practices. Training, workshops, academic courses, environmental policies, financial instruments and incentives to local industries are to be developed aiming to set up an enabling environment for implementing SP projects. Under this project, Simplified Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the production chain of the textile processing and leather sector is one of the activities in which hot spots are identified. This is the LCA (Hot Spot identification) report of the textile processing sector of Pakistan. Under Hot Spot Identification, all the life cycle stages of the textile garment were studied in order to determine those stages and their aspects having greatest environmental and social impacts.

2.0 Methodology and Approach

Hot spot is an environmental and social aspect in a specific life-cycle phase of a product chain that assumes high relevance in the context of the whole chain. Hot spots are hence assigned priority for action towards the reduction of the chains footprints. Hot spot identification includes three main tasks: Environmental and Social Aspects Significance Assessment: Firstly, the significance of a given set of environmental and social aspects for each life-cycle phase is assessed individually. Life Cycle Phase Significant Assessment: Secondly, the relative significance which different life-cycle phases have on the environmental and social performance of the entire life cycle is assessed. Hot Spot Identification: and thirdly, the grading of the environmental and social aspects significance is combined with the life-cycle phase significance in order to identify the most important hot spots.

The purpose of this identification is to select the focus areas within the product chain by assessing the relevance of different environmental and social aspects along the product lifecycle. Mostly the secondary data has been used, obtained from literature, environmental and energy audit reports of the textile processing industries available under different projects conducted in Pakistan. In those few areas where secondary information was not available, the consultants used their own experience of working with these industries in identifying and
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rating the significance of environmental and social aspects. The template of this report was finalized by CSCP (Centre on Sustainable Consumption and Production).

3.0 Life Cycle Phases

Following eight life cycle phases were studied for the hot spots analysis: 123456783.1 Agriculture/raw fiber production Ginning Spinning Weaving Processing Stitching Distribution/retail Use/Consumption and end of life

Agriculture/Raw Fiber Production First phase of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the cotton product chain is the agricultural phase where cotton crop is grown. This phase includes activities such as sowing the seeds, irrigation, use of fertilizers to enhance crop yield, hand and tractor spraying of pesticides on crop to protect it from diseases and insect pests, hand picking, collecting and storage of cotton. The aspect significance for this phase was done mainly on the basis of the secondary information gathered from different sources. Main source of the data was the World Wide Fund for Nature-Pakistan (WWF-P). This data is based on the entire cotton crop produced in the Punjab province. No specific site is selected.

3.2

Ginning Second phase of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the cotton product chain is the ginning phase where cotton seed is mechanically treated to separate cotton and seed. Different types of ginning machines with pre and post cleaners and bale presses are used in the processing sequence. Seed is transported to the oil mills where oil is extracted (used as cooking oil or as raw material for the ghee manufacturing) and the remaining material (hull and meat) are used in the poultry and animal feed production. The aspect significance for this phase was done mainly on the basis of the secondary information gathered from different sources.

3.3

Spinning Third phase of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the cotton product chain is the spinning phase where cotton received from the ginning mills is mechanically treated to produce yarn. Yarn production process starts from bales opening and cotton mixing, blowing, carding, drawing, simplex, ring spinning, cone winding and packing. Self power generation with natural gas in the generators is also part of the spinning process. All these processes contribute in affecting environment and working conditions and associated with higher electrical energy consumption. The aspect significance for this phase was done mainly on the basis of the secondary information gathered from the surveys conducted in spinning mill under Dutch funded Programme for Industrial Sustainable Development (PISD) 2008-2010 and Cleaner Production Programme (CPP) 2002-2003. Generally industries do not give due consideration on the social issues and welfare of the workers. Mostly, there is no canteen and
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designated place for the workers to take rest and meal. Workers are found taking food near the machines and sitting on the dirty floors. Workers toilets are not maintained and generally found untidy. Working conditions are not comfortable and workers, most of the times, remain under stress. Management concentrates on the production targets without keeping in mind the comfort and the willingness of the workers. 3.4 Weaving Fourth phase of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the cotton product chain is the weaving phase where cotton yarn received from the spinning mill is mechanically treated to convert it into the woven fabric. Weaving process starts from yarn inspection, direct and sectional warping, rewinding, sizing, drawing in, weaving, folding and dispatching. Weaving process is also supported by the utilities like water, self power generation, chemicals and steam. All these processes and utilities contribute in affecting environment and working conditions. The aspect significance for this phase was done mainly on the basis of the secondary information gathered from the surveys conducted in spinning mill under Dutch funded project CTPT (Cleaner Technology Project for Textile Industry) 2004-2007. 3.5 Processing Fifth phase of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the cotton product chain is the processing phase where cotton fabric received from the weaving mill is chemically and mechanically treated to convert it into the dyed and printed fabric. Mechanical and chemical finishing processes are also applied on the fabric to make it presentable. Processing steps include grey fabric inspection, singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, drying, mercerization, dyeing, printing, steam aging, soaper washing, curing and finishing. Utilities include water, electricity, gas, boilers, generators, steam and chemicals. All these processes and utilities contribute in affecting environment and working conditions. The aspect significance for this phase was done mainly on the basis of the secondary information gathered from the surveys conducted in the processing mills under Dutch funded Programme for Industrial Sustainable Development (PISD) 2008-2010. 3.6 Stitching Sixth phase of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the cotton product chain is the stitching phase where processed cotton fabric received from the processing mill is stitched into the garment and transferred to the distributor/market for selling to the customer. Stitching process involves inspection of garment, design formation, cutting and stitching according to the design, packing and transfer to the market. The aspect significance for this phase was done mainly on the basis of the secondary information gathered from the surveys conducted in the stitching unit under Dutch funded Programme for Industrial Sustainable Development (PISD) 2008-2010. 3.7 Distribution/Retail Seventh phase of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the cotton product chain is the distribution and retail where stitched garments are transferred for selling to the customer. Distribution and retail activities mainly involve garment transportation, storage and presentation to the customer.
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3.8

Use/Consumption and End of Life Eighth phase of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of the cotton product chain is the use/consumption and end of life phase where finished garment is purchased by the customer from the market, used, washed, ironed and disposed after it is worn.

4.0 Environmental Aspects Significance Assessment

In this section environmental aspect significance of all the above mentioned eight phases is carried out. The aspect rating is presented in Table 1 to 8. Each table comprises of six columns. Environmental and social aspects, relevant with the subject phase, are mentioned in the first columns and given significance scoring from 1 to 3 in the second column. Score 1 means low significance, 2 as medium and 3 to be the most significant. These scores are based on the fact based information, obtained from literature or from any other authentic source. Third column shows the source, on the basis of which, scoring was given to each aspect. In the fourth column, aspect significance is scored with reference to the company/industry itself (aspect is significant or not in companys own perspective). Fifth column scoring is based on the stakeholders expectations (aspect is significant or not in stakeholders perspective). Stakeholders can be growers, ginners, textile mills, exporters, government, community, local and international buyers etc. For column 6 scoring, the average of scores of column 4 and 5 is taken. In case the average is higher or lesser than the fact based score by 1 or more, then fact based score will be increased or decreased by 1 according to whatever be the case. In case average score of both the columns 4 and 5 is higher or lesser than fact based score by less than 1 (e.g. 0.5), then fact based score will remain unchanged.

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4.1

Environmental Aspect Significance of the Agricultural Phase Table 1: Agricultural Phase Aspect Significance
Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Column-1 Environmental Aspects Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Agriculture/Raw Fiber Production Column-2 Column-3 Column-4 Company Fact Based Source of Fact Internal Scoring Based Relevance (1-3) Information Based Scoring (1-3) Banuri T. Pakistan: Environmental Impact of 1 3 1 Cotton Production & Trade, UNEP, 1998 3 WWF 3 1 N.A 1 22 WWF 1 1 N.A 1 1 N.A 1 33 WWF 2 34 WWF 3 3 3 3 3 N.A N.A N.A N.A N.A 2 2 2 2 2 2 Column-5 Stakeholder Expectations Based Scoring (1-3) Column-6 Aspect Significance

Raw material (Fertilizer and pesticide use)

Water consumption Energy consumption Land use Waste generation Air emissions Wastewater generation Health effects on cotton pickers Social Aspects Working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages

3 1 2 1 1 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 Total

3 1 2 1 1 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 26

About 20% of the total 2.5 million nutrient tones of chemical fertilizer consumed in the country is used on cotton crop. About 60-70% of the total pesticide consumed in the country is used for the cotton crop. 2 Basically all the cotton in Pakistan is grown on the irrigated plains and the areas for cotton crop are specified. Change in land use is not a major issue. Pesticide and fertilizers use are stresses for the land quality. 3 Almost 100% of the samples of the surface water (used for irrigation) taken from the cotton grown areas of District Rahimyaar Khan, Bahalpur, Ghotki and Sindh were contaminated with pesticides. 4 In Pakistan, for cotton cultivation, 74% of the female cotton pickers are moderately pesticide-poisoned, while the remaining quarter has reached dangerous levels of poisoning. Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain SCI-Pak 2009-2012
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Note: 1- No data is available regarding energy consumption during cotton crop production and harvesting. Main sources of energy consumption are the tube wells, diesel engines, tractors and harvesting machines. As energy consumption is not significant for cotton crop in Pakistan, its significance score is 1. 2- Waste generation includes empty polypropylene bags of fertilizers, empty containers of pesticides, agricultural waste left after harvesting etc. No data is available for each category of the waste with respect to their quantities and disposal arrangements. Empty pesticides containers are the most threatening hazardous waste. Overall its significance is not much, therefore it is scored 1 3- Air emissions sources are the pesticide emissions during spraying on the crop, flue gases of diesel engines, tractors, harvesting machines and transportation vehicles. No data is available in quantity as well as in qualitative terms. Air emissions are not considered significant. 4- Water consumption (Acre Inch) for sugar cane, cotton and wheat crop is 33 million, 10 million and 8 million respectively (Textile Vision-2005, SMEDA Publication). Water consumption aspect is considered as high (3) in the significance rating. 5- Cotton crop has the highest levels of pesticides application in Pakistan. It has increased from 665 tons in 1980 to 47,592 tons in 2001 with 75% of imported pesticides. Although cotton crop is grown on only 2.5% of crop land but it accounts for about 8-10% of global pesticide use. In developing countries, around 50% of all pesticides used are for cotton cultivation. In 1990 World Health Organization (WHO) and the International Labour Organization (ILO) reported of millions of cases of pesticide poisoning a year in agriculture, resulting in between 20,000 and 40,000 deaths (mostly in developing countries with some relate to cotton growing) 6- Pakistan still uses chemicals that are listed as highly or extremely hazardous by the WHO and are not recommended for developing countries. These include organophosphates which affect the nervous system, but cheaper than newer chemicals. 7- One third of groundwater samples in the Punjab province exceed maximum allowable pesticide residue levels (A study by the National Agriculture Research Centre in Pakistan). Around 50% of cotton farmers report pesticide related sickness in their families. 8- One kg of cotton lint, about enough for a pair of jeans, requires about 8,500 liters of water for its growing. 9- Social Aspects: Working conditions are very poor, unhygienic and unsafe where farmers are directly exposed to pesticides. Forced labors, child labor, long working hours and no use of protective equipments add to these miseries. No labor is registered for social security. All the labor is uneducated and not provided any sort of training regarding best practices and safe use of pesticides. There is no concept of human rights and freedom of association. Health and safety is not given any priority. Daily wages are very low, not according to the regulations. No compensation and benefits.

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4.2

Environmental Aspect Significance of the Ginning Phase Table 2: Ginning Phase Aspect Significance
Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Column-1 Environmental Aspects Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Ginning Column-2 Column-3 Column-4 Company Fact Based Source of Fact Internal Scoring Based Relevance (1-3) Information Based Scoring (1-3) Textile Vision-2005 5 2 3 SMEDA Publication 6 1 -do1 1 N.A 1 37 38 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 N.A N.A N.A N.A N.A N.A N.A N.A N.A 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 Column-5 Stakeholder Expectations Based Scoring (1-3) Column-6 Aspect Significance

Energy consumption Waste generation Land use OHS Noise Cotton dust emissions Fire Injuries Social Aspects Working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages

3 1 1 2 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 Total

3 1 1 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 26

OHS Occupational Health & Safety

Electricity consumption is 24 kWh/bale (weight of one cotton bale is 170 kg). Ginning mill operates for about 100 days per season consuming 299,520 kWh electricity (Rs. 2,396,160) in the season to produce about 12,480 bales. 6 Solid waste of about 5% of the cotton seed processed, is generated which is about 321,454 kg per season. It includes shreds of white and colored polypropylene and jute threads, dust, trash, toffee wrappers and poly vinyl bag pieces. 7 Noise levels vary at different locations of the mill but mostly above 85 dBA which is not safe for the workers working there for 10 hours a day continuously. 8 Cotton dust levels are very high in the ginning mill especially at precleaning and ginning stage which causes byssinosis (brown lung disease) in the workers. Workers are not used to wear dust masks and other protective equipments. Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain SCI-Pak 2009-2012
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Note: 1- Social Aspects: Working conditions are very poor, unhygienic and unsafe. There is no provision of appropriate latrine, canteen, clean water etc. Forced labors, child labor, long working hours and no use of protective equipments add to these miseries. No labor is registered for social security. Most of the labor is uneducated and not provided any sort of training regarding safe use of machines and best practices for waste reduction and good housekeeping. There is no concept of human rights and freedom of association. Health and safety is not the priority. Daily wages are very low, not according to the regulations. No compensation and benefits.

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4.3

Environmental Aspect Significance of the Spinning Phase Table 3: Spinning Phase Aspect Significance
Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Column-1 Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Spinning Column-2 Column-3 Column-4 Company Fact Based Source of Fact Internal Scoring Based Relevance (1-3) Information Based Scoring (1-3) 39 PISD 3 10 1 PISD 1 111 PISD 1 112 CPP 1 1 N.A 1 313 214 1 1 2 1 2 2 2 PISD PISD PISD PISD PISD PISD PISD PISD PISD 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 Column-5 Stakeholder Expectations Based Scoring (1-3) 3 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 2 1 Total Column-6 Aspect Significance 3 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 2 2 2 21

Environmental Aspects

Energy consumption Water consumption Air emissions Waste generation Land use OHS Issues Noise Cotton dust emissions Fire Injuries Social Aspects Working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages

Spinning is an energy intensive mill. In a medium size mill, annually 16,127,288 kWh electricity (Rs. 60,226,366) is consumed. Unit consumption is 2.97 kWh/kg. 10 Spinning is not water intensive industry. Process water is only used in the humidification units and cooling towers which is recycled. 11 Medium sized mill is equipped with two gas fuel based generators of 1.1 MW each to fulfill the energy demand of the mill. These generators are the only sources of air emissions. Annual gas consumption for self generation is 4,141,069 m3 (Rs. 40,571,070). Mostly air pollutants of the flue gases are within NEQS (National Environmental Quality Standards). 12 Solid waste produced from the spinning mill includes soft waste (trash, dust and dusty fiber), hard waste (yarn or fiber in twisted form), bale packing material (jute and cotton cloth, polythene and polypropylene sheets, plastic and iron strips and GI wires), discarded cone rings (auxiliaries of spinning mill), broken bobbins and discarded sliver cans. Mostly all of these solid wastes are reused and recycled in different activities. These are not hazardous waste. 13 Noise levels in the production halls are in the range of 82-90 dBA whereas in generator hall levels are over 100 dBA. Workers are constantly exposed to these noise levels continuously throughout the working shift. According to American Conference of Government Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), recommended safe noise levels for 8 hr continuous exposure is 85 dBA. These noise levels cause both physiological and psychological effects on the workers. 14 Occupational areas of blow room, carding and ring spinning are contaminated with the cotton dust. Also workers practices such as cleaning of machines and their bodies and cloths with compressed air results into cotton dust dispersion in the air. Potential health hazards associated with the cotton dust in air is byssinosis (brown lung disease) which is a chronic asthma like narrowing of the air ways. Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain SCI-Pak 2009-2012
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Note: 1- Social Aspects: Working conditions are moderate. There is provision of latrine, canteen, clean water etc but not up to the required standard. Working environment becomes worst in summer season especially during humid months. Forced labors, child labor, long working hours and no use of protective equipments add to these issues. Most of the labor is registered for social security. Mostly labor is uneducated and not provided any sort of training regarding safe use of machines and best practices for waste reduction and good housekeeping. Human rights and freedom of association are not encouraged. Health and safety priority is moderate. Daily wages are low and mostly not according to the regulations. Compensation and benefits are limited.
4.4

Environmental Aspect Significance of the Weaving Phase Table 4: Weaving Phase Aspect Significance
Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Column-1 Environmental Aspects Raw materials Water consumption Energy consumption Air emissions Wastewater generation Waste generation Land use OHS Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Weaving Column-2 Column-3 Column-4 Company Fact Based Source of Internal Scoring Fact Based Relevance (1-3) Information Based Scoring (1-3) 115 CTPT 116 CTPT 317 CTPT 218 CTPT 119 CTPT 120 CTPT 221 CTPT Column-5 Stakeholder Expectations Based Scoring (1-3) 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 Column-6 Aspect Significance 1 1 3 1 1 1 1

15

Apart from yarn, main raw materials are chemicals used in the sizing process. Weaving is not chemical intensive industry. 16 About 83,950 m3 water is consumed annually in the process. This water is mainly consumed in the sizing process and humidification units. Weaving is not water intensive industry. 17 Weaving mill is an energy intensive industry where both electrical and thermal energies are used. Annual electricity consumption of a medium sized industry is 21,900,000 kWh (Rs. 175,200,000). Annual gas consumption of the mill (chiller, power house, boiler and residential colony) is 8,142,562 m 3 (Rs. 56,997,934). 18 Medium sized mill is equipped with three gas fuel based generators of 1.0 MW each to fulfill the energy demand of the mill. The generators, boiler and chillers are the sources of air emissions. 19 About 137 m3 per day wastewater is generated from the mill. Mostly wastewater pollution parameters are within the NEQS limit. 20 Weaving solid waste includes paper cones with or without yarn, cut cone waste, cartons, plastic strips, discarded yarn, iron and plastic drums, plastic cans, sized yarn, paper tubes, plastic strips, fluff, paper spools, discarded machine and mechanical parts, metal scrap, lube oil drums, oily rags, masking waste, jute. Most of these wastes are reused or recycled at different places. These are not considered hazardous waste. 21 Placement of filled and empty chemical and lube oil drums on soil results into soil contamination. Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain SCI-Pak 2009-2012
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Noise Cotton dust emissions Fire Injuries Chemical handling and storage Social Aspects Working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages

322 223 1 1

CTPT CTPT CTPT CTPT

2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

2 2 2 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 Total

2 2 2 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 24

224 CTPT 2 1 2 2 2 CTPT CTPT CTPT CTPT CTPT

Note: 1- Social Aspects: Working conditions are moderate. There is provision of latrine, canteen, clean water etc but not up to the required standard. Working environment becomes worst in summer season especially during humid months. Forced labors, child labor, long working hours and no use of protective equipments add to these issues. Most of the labor is registered for social security. Mostly labor is uneducated and not provided any sort of training regarding safe use of machines and best practices for waste reduction and good housekeeping. Human rights and freedom of association are not encouraged. Daily wages are low and mostly not according to the regulations. Compensation and benefits are limited.

22

Noise levels are in the range of 57-107 dBA. Workers are constantly exposed to these noise levels throughout the working shift. According to American Conference of Government Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), recommended safe noise levels for 8 hr continuous exposure is 85 dBA. These noise levels cause both physiological and psychological effects on the workers. 23 Occupational areas of warping, weaving and rewinding halls are contaminated with the cotton dust. Also workers practices such as cleaning of machines and their bodies and cloths with compressed air results into cotton dust dispersion in the air. Potential health hazards associated with the cotton dust in air is byssinosis (brown lung disease) which is a chronic asthma like narrowing of the air ways. 24 Chemical handling and storage issues include placement of incompatible chemicals together, no use of PPEs by workers and labels on the chemical containers, non existence of secondary containment for leakage and spillage control and improper safety condition at store. Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain SCI-Pak 2009-2012
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4.5

Environmental Aspect Significance of the Processing Phase Table 5: Processing Phase Aspect Significance
Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Column-1 Environmental Aspects Raw materials Energy consumption Water consumption Wastewater generation Air emissions Waste generation Land use OHS Noise Fire Chemical handling Social Aspects Working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Processing Column-2 Column-3 Column-4 Company Fact Based Source of Fact Internal Scoring Based Relevance (1-3) Information Based Scoring (1-3) 325 PISD 2 26 3 PISD 3 327 PISD 2 328 PISD 3 1 PISD 1 1 PISD 1 229 PISD 2 230 PISD 1 PISD 1 PISD 2 1 2 2 2 PISD PISD PISD PISD PISD 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 Column-5 Stakeholder Expectations Based Scoring (1-3) 2 3 3 3 1 1 2 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 Total Column-6 Aspect Significance 2 3 3 3 1 1 2 2 2 1 2 1 2 2 2 29

25

Main raw materials, other than grey fabric, are different types of chemicals. Textile processing employs a variety of chemicals, depending on the nature of the raw material and product. Some of these chemicals are different type of enzymes, detergents, dyes, acids, alkalies and salts. The fate of these chemicals varies, ranging from 100% retention on the fabric to 100% discharge with the effluent . 26 Textile processing is an energy intensive mill where annual electricity, gas and steam consumption is 6,376,450 kWh (Rs. 20,872,934 including cost of gas for self generation), 10,357,124 m3 (Rs.67,433,411, only for process gas, self generation cost is already added in the electricity cost) and 150,000 m 3 respectively. Energy wastage areas include lack of insulation on hot bare pipelines and surfaces, wastage of hot water and steam condensate, malfunctioning steam traps, wastage of energy from hot wastewater and flue gases, steam and compressed air leakage, under load running of electrical motors, use of low efficiency motors, inefficient compressed air system and low power factor. 27 Textile processing is water intensive industry where daily 3,7 00 m3 water is consumed. About 150 liter of water is consumed to process one kg of fabric. Water wastages occur at the production floor. Excessive water use results into higher consumption of chemicals and energy as both are interlinked. 28 About 3,000 m3 untreated wastewater is discharged into the water body (pH 12, BOD, 666, COD 1,276) 29 Chemical and lube oil spillage and leakage, uncontrolled and unprotected placement of containers on soil results into soil contamination 30 Noise level range is 68-100 dBA. At most of the areas noise levels are higher than the safe limit of 85 dBA for 8 hr continuous exposure. Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain SCI-Pak 2009-2012
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Note: 1- Social Aspects: Working conditions are moderate. There is provision of latrine, canteen, clean water etc but not up to the required standard. Working environment becomes worst in summer season especially during humid months. Forced labors, child labor, long working hours and no use of protective equipments add to these issues. Most of the labor is registered for social security. Mostly labor is uneducated and not provided any sort of training regarding safe use of machines and best practices for waste reduction and good housekeeping. Human rights and freedom of association are not encouraged. Daily wages are low and mostly not according to the regulations. Health and safety priority is moderate. Compensation and benefits are limited. 4.6 Environmental Aspect Significance of the Stitching Phase Table 6: Stitching Phase Aspect Significance
Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Column-1 Environmental Aspects Energy consumption Waste generation OHS Noise Fire Social Aspects Working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Stitching Column-2 Column-3 Column-4 Company Fact Based Source of Fact Internal Scoring Based Relevance (1-3) Information Based Scoring (1-3) 3 PISD 3 31 1 PISD 1 132 PISD 1 PISD 1 1 1 2 2 PISD PISD PISD PISD PISD 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 Column-5 Stakeholder Expectations Based Scoring (1-3) 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 Total Column-6 Aspect Significance 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 13

31

Solid waste comprises of waste cut fabric, waste threads, broken needles, waste and discarded buttons, waste and discarded stickers, hangers, empty cardboards, polythene bags 32 Noise levels are in the range of 70-75 dBA which is within safe limit of 85 dBA. Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain SCI-Pak 2009-2012
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4.7

Environmental Aspect Significance of the Distribution/Retail Phase Table 7: Distribution/Retail Phase Aspect Significance
Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Column-1 Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Distribution/Retail Column-2 Column-3 Column-4 Company Fact Based Source of Fact Internal Scoring Based Relevance (1-3) Information Based Scoring (1-3) 1 N.A 1 1 N.A 1 1 N.A 1 N.A 1 1 1 1 1 N.A N.A N.A N.A N.A 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Column-5 Stakeholder Expectations Based Scoring (1-3) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Total Column-6 Aspect Significance 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 9

Environmental Aspects

Energy consumption Waste generation OHS Noise Fire Social Aspects Working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages

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4.8

Environmental Aspect Significance of the Use/Consumption and End of Life Phase Table 8: Use/Consumption and End of Life Phase Aspect Significance
Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Column-1 Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Use/Consumption and End of Life Column-2 Column-3 Column-4 Company Fact Based Source of Fact Internal Scoring Based Relevance (1-3) Information Based Scoring (1-3) 133 N.A 134 N.A 135 N.A 136 N.A 137 N.A 1 N.A Column-5 Stakeholder Expectations Based Scoring (1-3) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Total Column-6 Aspect Significance 1 1 1 1 1 1 6

Environmental Aspects

Energy consumption Water consumption Wastewater generation Waste generation Social Aspects Consumer health and safety Product quality

5.0 Life Cycle Phase Significance Assessment

After individual aspect significance assessment of each phase, significance of each phase is established on the basis of the aggregate score of aspect significance. Aggregate significance score of the life cycle assessment phases lies in the range of 6 to 29. Phase significance is scored according to the following: Significance 1 2 3 Phase Aspects Score Range (Aggregate) 6-15 16-25 26-35 or above

33

Energy consumption in this phase is not much mainly used during transportation from home to the sale point to buy the garment, washing in the washing machine and ironing. 34 About 20-30 liter of water is used to wash the garment. 35 Wastewater is generated during washing activity. Mainly detergents are discharged in it causing foaming and eutrophication. Its quantity and pollution level is not significant. 36 Two types of wastes are associated with it. One type is the wrapping material and carry bag received while purchasing the garment and other is the garment itself when disposed after wear and tear. 37 As permitted dyes, pigments and chemicals are used within the permissible limits during fabric processing, therefore there is no issue regarding consumer health and safety. Simplified Life Cycle Assessment Hot Spot Identification in the Textile Chain SCI-Pak 2009-2012
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Table 9: Life Cycle Phase Significance

Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Agriculture/Raw Fiber Production Ginning Spinning Weaving Processing Stitching Distribution/Retail Use/Consumption and End of Life Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Life Cycle Relative Phase Significance (1-3) 3 3 2 2 3 1 1 1

The most significant phases of textile life cycle assessment are agriculture, ginning and processing with respect to environmental and social aspects. Spinning and weaving phases are the moderate and stitching, distribution and use/end of life are under low significance.

6.0 Hot Spot Identification

After establishing phase significance, hot spots are identified in the Table 10. All the eight phases are present in this table along with their aspects, aspects scores and phase score. Hot spot for each phase is identified by multiplying aspect score with the phase score. The resultant score of each aspect will be in the range of 1 to 9. The aspect having score within the range of 6 to 9 is considered as Hot Spot.

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Table 10: Hot Spot Identification

Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Environmental Aspects Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Weaving Processing Stitching Asp Phase A Asp Phase A Asp Phase A B x A B x A B B B 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 6 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 2 1 1 3 3 6 9 9 6 3 3 9 3 1 1

Agricultural Asp Phase A B

A x B 9 9 3 6 3 3 6 9

Ginning Asp Phase A B

A x B 9 3 3 -

Spinning Asp Phase A B

A x B 2 6 2 2 2 -

A x B 3 1 -

Distributor/Retail Asp Phase A A B x B 1 1 1 1 1 -

Use/Consumption & End of Life Asp Phase A A B x B 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -

Raw material Water consumption Energy consumption Land use Waste generation Air emissions Wastewater generation Health effects on cotton pickers OHS Issues Noise Cotton dust Fire Injuries Chemical handling & storage Social Aspects General working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages Consumer health & safety Prod. Quality

3 3 1 2 1 1 2 3

3 1 1 -

1 3 1 1 1 -

2 2 2 2 2 -

6 6 6 6 6 -

3 3 3 2

9 9 9 6

2 1 1 1

4 2 2 2

2 2 2 1 1 2 1 2 2 2 -

4 4 4 2 2 4 2 4 4 4 -

2 2 1 2 1 2 2 2 -

6 6 3 6 3 6 6 6 -

1 1 1 1 1 2 2 -

1 1 1 1 1 2 2 -

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -

1
1

1
1

2 2 2 2 2 -

6 6 6 6 6 -

2 1 2 2 2 -

4 2 4 4 4 -

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Table 11: Hot Spots

Product Chain Life Cycle Phase Environmental Aspects Raw material Water consumption Energy consumption Land use Wastewater generation Health effects on cotton pickers Occupational Health & Safety Issues Noise Cotton dust Fire Injuries Social Aspects General working conditions Social security Training and education Human rights Living wages Agricul 9 9 9 6 6 9 6 6 Ginn Cotton Garment (Dyed, Printed Woven) Spinn Weav Process Stitch 6 9 9 6 9 Distrib Use

9 9 9 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6

6 6

6 6 6 6

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7.0 Conclusion
1- No hot spot is identified in the stitching, distribution/retail, use/consumption and end of life cycle phases. 2- Most significant phases with maximum numbers of hot spots identifications are processing, agriculture and ginning 3- Weaving and spinning are at low significance with regard hot spots identification 4- Social aspects are prevalent in all the three most significant phases 5- Energy consumption is a hot spot in ginning, spinning, weaving and processing phases 6- Water consumption and raw material are identified as hot spots in the processing and the agricultural phases only 7- Occupational health and safety issues are significant in the ginning phase 8- Wastewater generation and its contamination is the issue of processing and agricultural phase

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