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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

COLOGNE
June - July 2006

Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party

River tours
Wine and dine on the
Rhine

N°1
Complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
Contents 3

Herzlich
Willkommen! E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving 5
In Your Pocket begrüßt in seiner Reihe der Stadtführer auch diese Getting there and oriented
schöne Stadt. History 6
From Roman invasion to football invasion
Die In Your Pocket City Guides verstehen sich als kostenlose Stadt-
führer.Unsere Zielgruppe ist klar! Unsere Leser besuchen die Stadt Glossary 7
und wissen weder was die Butter in Hamburg kostet, noch warum The basics
die Münchner blasse Wurst essen und wo diese wirklich schmeckt. Events 8
What’s going on
Unsere Leser sind Touristen und Geschäftsreisende: sie möchten
sich die Stadt ansehen, Vorführungen genießen, Essen & Trinken, World Cup events 11
Postkarten schreiben, oder in ihrer freien Zeit Ausstellungen be- Football-related festivities
suchen und ein typisches Souvenir kaufen. Kölsch 12
Watery local delight
Aber unsere Leser sprechen kein Wort Deutsch!
Festivals 13
Wir geben den internationalen Reisenden ausführliche Informa- Join in the party
Sco
tionen über Ihr Unternehmen und präsentieren Ihre Leistungen in
englischer Sprache. Where to stay 14
From park bench to Park Grand
Nightlife 28
Bars, clubs and general debauchery
Restaurants 21
From fine dining to fast food
What to see 32

  #     Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Sights in and around town
   FRaNkFuRt MuNiCH CologNE Hamburg HaNovER
 " april - May 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006

Daytrips 37
New Look
Revamped In Your
Pocket
Visiting Brühl Castle, or shopping in Bonn?
Museums by
night

Getting around
Join the all-night
culture fest

Feature 1
38
Trains, planes and taxis
Short description of the
feature. Should be max.
3 lines.
Football events
!  Feature 2 - max Win or lose, this is
Revamped In Your where to party
Pocket 2 lines
Short description of the Football events Harbour tours Feature 2 - max
feature. Should be max.
!" Win or lose, this is Down in the docks
The river tour season
3 lines. where to party 2 lines

Mail & Phones


Short description of the
opens Football events

40
feature. Should be max.

  N°21 - €1.75 N°13 - ??price?? N°1 - €1.75 River tours N°1 - €1.75 Win or lose, this is N°1 - ??price??
3 lines.
www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Wine and dine on the www.inyourpocket.com where to party www.inyourpocket.com
Rhine

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing events maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Heed your calling
kaiSERSlautERN lEipzig Nuremberg RuHRgEbiEt Stuttgart
including

Shopping 41
Dortmund,
June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 gelsenkirchen, June - July 2006
Essen and
bochum

Ruhrpott
industrial
tourism
Up towers, down shafts

automobiles
Souvenirs, food and books
Visiting Mercedes and
going medieval Porsche
A tour through the old

Directory
town
Football events

43
Win or lose, this is
Football events where to party
Win or lose, this is
where to party

Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party
Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party

Brought back to
Banks, pharmacies and hairdressers
Going Palatine life
Strolling in the forest Plagwitz’ industrial
revival

Maps & Index


N°1 - ??price?? N°1 - €1.75 N°1 - ??price?? N°1 - €1.75
www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

N°1 - FREE COPY


www.inyourpocket.com

Street register 45
City map 46-47
Transport map 48-49
Index 50
Sco

June - July 2006


tel: +49 (0)30 27907981, germany@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
4 ForeWord arriVing 5

Cologne is a city that has a strong sense of identity


and individuality. Whether you are spending a week Welcome to Cologne Arriving by plane Arriving by bus
or two getting to know the city or just passing Köln/Bonn airport (Flughafen; www.koeln-bonn-airport. International buses and coaches depart from Breslauer
If you haven’t seen Cologne, de) is 17km south of Cologne’s centre, and is practically Platz, at the rear of Hauptbahnhof station, where you will
through you are left with a sense that there was you haven’t seen Germany” halfway Bonn. It is serviced by S13 S-Bahn trains, depart- find the Eurolines kiosk as well as offices for the domestic
more to see and do. The museums are amongst - this ancient Roman saying ing from the station underneath Terminal 2. Some DB operators. The bus station is just an ugly depot, and it’s
the best and most renowned in Europe, the is as relevant today as it was regional and long-distance trains also stop at the airport. better to wait inside the train station, or perhaps in the
cathedral and various churches throughout the city 2000 years ago, because our The journey to Hauptbahnhof (the main station) takes nearby Cathedral.
beautiful city on the Rhine is around 20 minutes and costs €2. Tickets can be purchased
are virtually painted with history, the music scene is more diverse than most other
thriving and the beer is a world unto itself. Best of at vending machines in the station or from the DB service
cities in the country. desk inside Terminal 2, and do not require validation. You
all; Cologne is a city that likes tourists. The Koelsch can also hail a taxi from outside the arrival terminal. The
people are proud of their city, and they love to show Cologne has a lot to offer trip into town takes 20-25 minutes and costs around €25.
it off. After witnessing Carnival it is hard to imagine beside Kölsch, Carnival and Six car rental companies have offices in hall between
Churches. Founded 2000 terminals 1 and 2.
Cologne ever being more boisterous, but there years ago by the Romans,
may be surprises left in store when the World Cup Cologne is one of the oldest
knocks at the door. cities in Germany, ranked fourth for its population of just Arriving by train
Enjoy Cologne, and remember to write in to over one million, and one of the most popular destina- The main train station is Köln Hauptbahnhof, which is a
cologne@inyourpocket.com with your experiences tions for both German and foreign visitors. busy transportation hub. International trains including
in town, and your opinion of this guide. high-speed connections to Paris and Amsterdam pass
I am convinced that our foreign visitors - whether they through Cologne, and there are excellent connections to
are football fans or not - will feel at home in the Cathedral all major German cities. S-Bahn commuter trains leave
city. Enjoy the sights that Cologne has to offer, its friendly
City guides to 40 cities atmosphere and culture.
from the last two platforms, while U-Bahn metro trains
depart from the station underneath Hauptbahnhof. The
around Europe online free: station itself is a mini shopping centre, and contains
bars, restaurants, post office (open 06:00-22:00, Sun
www.inyourpocket.com Fritz Schramma
07:00-22:00), ATMs and a small, pricey supermarket.
Most of the stores within the Hauptbahnhof operate
Lord Mayor of Cologne between the hours of 08:00 and 21:00, while the sta-
tion itself is open 24 hours to cater for overnight train
passengers. There is a police station located at the
front of the station, and constant police patrols keep
Cover story the riff-raff at bay. JvM

Cologne’s majestic medieval


Dom Cathedral towers over the
Rhine, flanked by the railway
bridge leading to the adjacent
Hauptbahnhof station. renta

Editorial
JvM

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Peter de Lissa, Sco cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
Research Morwenna Parkyn of this publication may be reproduced
In Your Pocket GmbH Layout & Design Tomáš Haman in any form, except brief extracts for Contacting In Your Pocket’s publisher will get you the franchising
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cologne@inyourpocket.com the railway bridge over the Rhine empire. Our experienced editors and production managers offer
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


 history glossary 

50 AD Romans colonise an existing settlement and call it


“Colonia”. Previous to that the area was inhabited by local
the amount of trade and the type of trade, thus limiting
economic growth. The witdraw in 1814 as a result of losing Driving really quite useful for avoiding confusion, and Germany is one
of the few places where the 24-hour clock is even used in
Germanic tribes, and was called the Ubii village. a key battle near Leipzig. Germany has a brilliant network of Autobahn (motorways, spoken language. You may be told that the museum closes at
prefixed A) and Bundesstrasse roads (major roads, prefixed sixteen-thirty, or that the train departs at twenty-thirtyeight.
450 AD Roman rule collapses in the Rhineland region. Many 1823 The first organised Carnival parade takes place, and by B. Traffic drives on the right with speed limits of 130km/h
of the old Roman structures have survived as ruins to this
day, and form a large part of Cologne’s history.
starts an enduring tradition of controlled insanity. or 100km/h outside built-up areas, and 50km/h in built-
up areas. And indeed, there are really no speed limits on Visas
1839 The Stollwerck factory opens, and becomes the Autobahnen which makes for some fun driving and some Citizens of EU and EEA countries do not need visas to enter
1074 Cologne citizens revolt against the ruling Archbishop forerunner to the chocolate factory. The Cologne Art truly ghastly accidents. Keep a close eye on the rear mirror Germany; most others do. For more details, visit the website
Anno II, and are thoroughly oppressed for their troubles. Association is founded. if you’re planning to overtake or if you’re in the left lane, of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, www.auswaertiges-amt.de.
as those headlights in the distance behind you may get Germany is part of the Schengen treaty, which allows free flow
1164 The relics of the Three Kings of Milan are “liberated” by 1842 Work resumes on the Dom Cathedral uncomfortably close very quickly. Seatbelts must be worn of goods and traffic between member states. This means that
the crusaders and given to the Archishop Rainald von Dassel. at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in your passport only gets checked when entering and leaving the
These still reside within the Dom Cathedral. 1880 The construction on the Dom is completed. The top- the front seat with a child restraint. German laws are strict Schengen area, and once you’re in, you can travel overland from
most spire reaches 157 metres. by many accounts when it comes to driving after you have Portugal to Finland without being stopped at the borders.
1180 After the continued expansion of the city, Cologne had a few pints, glasses or snifters full of booze. The legal
1918 “Kölsch” beer is christened.
becomes the largest city in the empire. Trade is important
to the Cologne economy and the ports along the Rhine form
maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.
The Rhein
1933 The National Socialist party attains power and relieves
an important hub of economic activity.
the Mayor of office. Language Occasionally in springtime the Rhine river builds up due to the
melting of the snow in Switzerland, and overflows out onto
1248 Construction begins on the Dom Cathedral. The German language has been somewhat misrepresented in the banks. There have been times in history where the flood
1942-1945 90 percent of the Altstadt is destroyed in night the foreign media over the past decades, and when you hear it reached well into the old town, and caused large amounts
1388 Cologne University is founded by Pope Urban VI, the bombings by the Allies. Bags of flour instead are dropped spoken it’s not as harsh as you may expect. Although you won’t of damage and loss of life. The dangers from it today are
first town university in Europe. onto the Dom Cathedral instead of bombs as either a sign be able to learn it on a short trip, it’s always nice to memorise less dire due to the temporary flood defences that can be
of power or respect. a few key terms like thank you (danke), please (bitte), hello quickly erected.
1475 Cologne is given the official status of being a free (gutentag) and goodbye (auf wiedersehen). You’ll notice
1954 The German football team wins the World Cup.
town of the empire. that written German has some odd characters, such as the
ß, the ü, ö and ä. Annoyingly, these are interchangeable with Speaking Kölsch
16th century Construction is halted on the Dom 1968 Work begins on the U-Bahn system combinations of letters and can (and often are) replaced by ss, Cologne’s Kölsch dialect can turn your working understanding
ue, oe and ae respectively – which explains why the website of the German language into water. Not only are there differ-
1740 Potatoes make their triumphant debut in Cologne. 1976 Museum Ludwig is founded after a donation of 350 of Cologne (Köln) is spellt www.koeln.de. ent pronunciations of words, but there are also completely
works from the Ludwig family’s private collection. different words for some things as well. The dialect is mostly
1794 French troops occupy Cologne, which influences both
1981 The telecommunications tower is Money used by the older generations, and mostly with a patriotic
flair. One of the distinctive sounds in the accent is the “ch”
erected with a revolving restaurant on top. The best way to get cash in Germany is to use an ATM sound gets turned from an “ik” to an “ish”, and the “g” gets
The restaurant has since closed. machine, of which there are plenty all over the country. pronounced like a “y” on occasion. When the younger gen-
German banks do not charge for using foreign cards in erations use the accent they are often humorously alluding
1985 The twelve Altstadt churches are their machines, so check with your own bank if you’ll pay to the sense of pride that people from Cologne have in their
systematically restored and refurbished. any commission. Even if you do have to pay a euro or two city and their identity.
to use an ATM, it’ll be better value and easier than going to
1986 The Philharmonie is opened, one of the banks or train station exchange offices (like the
revealing a fault in the architectural design Reisebank chain) as they have worse exchange rates and
where the roof forms a walkway next to will charge a commission.
the Ludwig Museum. Germany ditched the Deutsche mark in 2002, adopting the
euro, pronounced locally as oi-ro. Germany’s economy is
1993 The Stollwerck Chocolate museum the largest in Europe, and therefore the majority of coins
is founded at the Rheinauhafen by the in circulation now are German ones; you’ll see Berlin’s
former chairman on the Stollwerck Brandenburg Gate on the €0.10, €0.20 and €0.50 coins,
company. and the German eagle flapping around on the €1 and €2. the
banknotes, if you’re wondering, are the same for the whole of
1996 The Musical Dom is built, to the euroland, and are adorned with generic European bridges.
delight and chagrin of many locals. The
musical shows are quite impressive, but
the aesthetic style of the big blue dome Safety
turns many people off. Germany is a very safe country to travel in, and other than
the usual precautions against pickpocketing, there are no
2 0 0 0 Fri t z S c h ra m m a i s el e c te d special preparations you should make. Although Germany
Oberbürgermeister (mayor) of Cologne has been in the news recently for racist attacks, these
incidents are quite rare and are by no means a purely German
2004 Rheinenergie Stadion, venue of the phenomenon. Germans are aware that their country is more
World Cup soccer matches, is opened closely scrutinised than others when it comes to this, and
as a replacement for the Muengersdorf racism and violence is not tolerated, witness the impressive
stadium. level of security around synagogues and Jewish institutions:
sturdy barriers and round-the-clock armed guards.
2005 World Youth Day takes place in
Cologne, and the festivity is blessed by
the Pope. Time
Germany uses the 24-hour clock system, known as military
2006 The FIFA World Cup takes place. time in some places, but as simply as ‘the time’ here. By doing
Sco away with all the am, pm, noon and midnight nonsense, it’s Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


8 eVents eVents 9

13 July 2006, 20:00 24 June, 11:00


Theatre, Opera & Dance Eric Clapton Barbara Bechtloff Europe In Your Pocket
Find information about the more remarkable of these Kölnarena Willy-Brandt-Platz-1, tel. 0221 80 21 Atelier Colonia, Körnerstr. 37-39
venues in the Sightseeing chapter.
7 July 2006, 20:00
Musical Dom Goldgasse 1, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 0180 Joe Jackson Opera
515 25 30, www.musical-dome-koeln.de. Not unlike walking Live Music Hall, Lichtstr. 30, tel. 0221 954 29 90 2 June, 19:00
around a vast and creaky caravan, even the staff here call the La Gare de Perpignan
city’s ghastly rock music venue the big blue garbage bag. Whilst 14-16 July Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstr.1, tel. 221 223 82
there’s nothing wrong in principal with modern architecture, this Summer Jam Festival
place simply stinks. The Queen musical “We Will Rock You” Europe’s largest Reggae and World Music festival 2 June, 19:30
(www.queen-musical.de) has been running since late 2000. Fuehlinger See Der Held der westlichen Welt
Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
Opera (Oper der Stadt Köln) Offenbachplatz, MNeu- 23 July, 19:00
markt, tel. 284 00, www.buehnenkoeln.de. Set amidst The Rolling Stones 3 June, 19:00
the trendiest part of the shopping district, this opera house RheinEnergieStadion Night of Italian Opera
never fails to impress. There are of course performances of Tanzbrunnen, Rheinparkweg 1, tel. 821 21 21
classics such as Wagner and other composers, and they 26 July 2006, 19:00
often have more modern operas as well. Jamie Cullum 4 June, 19:30
Bonn, Museumsplatz, tel. 0228 91 71 200 La Forza del Destino
Philharmonie Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHauptbahnhof, Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
tel. 280 280, www.koelner-philharmonie.de. Opened in Exhibitions
1986, the Philharmonie has become know as one of Germa- Salvador Dalí: La Gare de Perpignan 7 June, 19:30
ny’s leading concert halls. Tickets can be ordered online. Until 25 June Don Pasquale
Museum Ludwig, Bischofsgartenstr. 1 Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84
RheinEnergieStadion Aachener Strasse, tel. 498 36,
www.stadion-koeln.de. Opened in 2004, this well-equipped Until 5 June 17 June, 13:00
and modern stadium is the venue for the World Cup games Global Players - Deutscher Fußball in aller Welt Jarry Singla & Blumenbein
to be played in Cologne, as well as playing host to some of Deutsches Sport- und Olympiamuseum, Rheinauhafen 1 C. Bechstein Forum,
the biggest names in music. Robbie Williams is scheduled Opern Passagen, Glockengasse 6, tel. 925 85 07
to play in August.
Exhibitions 23 June, 19:30
Tanzbrunnen Rheinweg 1, MMesse Deutz, tel. 821 21 9 June, 18:00 La Cifra In Your Pocket continues to expand, launching no less
21. The Tanzbrunnen (Dance Fountain) is a great open-air Jazz & Art Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 22 12 84 than eight new city guides in Germany, in time for the soccer
venue for live acts. It sits next to the Rheinpark, and plays Kunstwerk, Deutz-Mülheimer Str. 127-129, tel. 880 07 67 World Cup. All World Cup host cities now have their own In
host to many big shows and performances. Your Pocket, in print and available locally at hotels, and also
Theatre online as both browseable text and a free downloadable
11 June, 15:00 PDF guide. Apart from that, there’s the free Football In Your
Tickets Drachenreiter Pocket insert guide which can be found in all In Your Pocket
guides in Germany - the booklet has information on teams
KölnTicket Große Neugasse 2, tel. 28 01, www. Junges Theater Bonn, Hermannstr. 50-52, tel. 46 36 72
and stadiums and has a nifty fixtures table. Elsewhere,
koelnticket.de. Tickets for nearly all cultural and sports new guides will hit the streets of Kosovo, Macedonia and
events, available online in German (pay by credit card) or 11 June, 14:30 & 19:30 Montenegro this summer. If you would like to be a part of
from their office. We Will Rock You the Pocket group, publishing your own guide, contact us at
Musical-Dome, Goldgasse 1, tel. 577 90 publisher@inyourpocket.com for more details. You can also
Events 11 June, 19:30
keep up to date with the latest developments by logging on
to www.inyourpocket.com/press.
A midsummer night’s dream
Classical music Schlosserei, Krebsgasse, tel. 221-2 84 0
10 June, 20:00
WDR Sinfonieorchester Köln 14 June, 15:30
Brahms, Strawinsky Hänsel und Gretel / Hans and Gretel
Philharmonie Oper der Stadt Köln, Offenbachplatz, tel. 221 2840

6/7 July, 20:00 15 June, 20:00


The Ten Tenors Rolling Stones un-PLACK-ed Tour
Philharmonie Theater im Hof, Roonstr. 54, tel. 35 68 122

From 25 July, 20:00 15 June, 15:30


19th Kölner Sommerfestival 2006 Have you seen my little boy?
Martha Graham Dance Company Schlosserei, Krebsgasse, tel. 221-2 84 0
Philharmonie
23 June, 19:30
Concerts Aymineh
15 June 2006, 18.30 Cassiopeia Bühne, Martinsfeld 35, tel. 937 87 87
Deep Purple
Bonn, Museumsplatz, tel. 0228 917 12 00 24 June, 20:00
Arcipelago Circo Teatro
11 July 2006, 19:00 Schokoladenmuseum, Rheinauhafen 1a, tel. 931 88 80
James Blunt
Tanzbrunnen, Rheinparkweg 1, tel. 0221 821 31 83 Sco Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


10 eVents World Cup Fan Fest 11

During the games the city centre will transform into a huge
Gay events It’s Brazil’s Cup to Lose viewing area, with the three main city squares; Roncalliplatz, Bud or Bit
14-16 July Heumarkt and Alter Markt allowing public viewing via large
Christopher Street Day The idea that this could be video screens. There will also be a number of gimmicky So you came to Germany to taste the famous local brews?
Th e annual festi val o f C ol ogne’s gay and l esbian one of the most open and soccer courts set up in the squares, where punters can try You’re in for a bit of a surprise if you’re planning to order
community fiercely contested World their luck and perhaps snap a tendon in the process. beer in any of the stadiums or public viewing areas, as one
Cup tournaments in history of the main sponsors of the World Cup is Anheuser-Busch,
has been doing the rounds the US brewery responsible for Budweiser and whose
3 June, 19:30 in the press – especially There are a number of bars and pubs around town that will
Africa Gay & Friends Evening be showing the games live on big screen TVs. The Corkonian interpretation of what beer should taste like differs a bit
the UK press – ever since from the European viewpoint. As exclusive beer sponsor
Sasch’s Bar, Wetzlarerstr. 2, tel. 88 75 471 England beat Argentina in a has two large screens, and are daily showing games played
rather meaningless friendly all over the world. The Corkonian is, however, at the Alter they have the sole right to promote their beer in and around
6 June, 20:00 match, held in Switzerland Markt (no.51, tel. 221 257 69 31) which is one of the venues the official venues. Thankfully, after years of legal battle,
Knacki Deuser / Theater & Music at the end of last year. (The for the public viewing on big screen TV’s outside, so it almost Bitburger, Germany’s second-largest brewer, is allowed to
Gloria, Apostelnstr. 11, tel. 258 36 56 match was also memorable defeats the purpose. sell their brew here as well, though not advertise it. Outside
for England captain David of the official venues, local bars are allowed to sell whatever
19 June, 19:00 B e c k h a m’s p r e - g a m e The Spor t and Olympia Museum (Rh einauha fen 1, beer they like.
Wir sind, wie wir sind / Party comment that ‘it is a neutral www.sportmuseum-koeln.de, see p.??) have a special
Rubicon, Rubensstr. 8-10, tel. 19 44 6 venue for both teams.’) exhibit over the World Cup period called “Global Players-
Since then the idea that Fresh from Champions
the tournament is ‘open’, League success with
Deutscher fussball in aller Welt” which focuses on German
football players who have gone on to play in and for other Live acts
Children’s events in fact code for ‘England Barcelona, Ronaldinho
countries. The following live acts takeplace during the World Cup.
have a chance’, has been
3 June, 15:00 increasingly winning friends will be looking for another
The ugly duckling and influencing people. World Cup triumph with The Cologne Jazz Night 2006 runs from the 29th of June until On the 26th of June The Strokes will be performing at
By H.C. Andersen, for children from 5 years To p u t a n y E n g l a n d Brazil.” © Mediafax Foto the 7th of July at the Musikhochschule, and incorporates the Palladium. Tickets from www.noisenow.de. Palladium,
Cassiopeia Bühne, Martinsfeld 35, tel. 937 87 87 supporters reading this the World Cup into their performances with the individual Schanzenstrasse 40, tel. 221 967 90, www.palladium-
out of their self-induced hubris: England have absolutely bands and artists representing all the nations taking part koeln.de.
10 June, 16:00, no chance whatsoever of winning the World Cup; with or in the games. The final days of the festival are devoted to
The fattest Pinguin of Pol without Wayne Rooney. Indeed, the now legendary Rooney seminars and workshops. On 13 July, Eric Clapton will be playing at the Koelnarena,
Childern’s theatre, from 3 years metatarsal injury has given the English press a ready excuse Musikhochschule, Dagobertstrasse 38, tel. 221 912 81 and is being supported by the Robert Cray Band, so if you
Horizont Theater, Thürmchenswall 25, tel. 13 16 04 when England do indeed crash out of the tournament. It 80) get the chance to stick around after the final you will be in
should not, however, hide the enormous failings that England for a treat. Koelnarena, Willi-Brandt-Platz 2, tel. 221 80 20,
17 June, 16:00 currently suffer from. They still lack a proper goalkeeper, they At the Eifelturm Theatre (Eifelstrasse 33, tel. 221 32 17 92, www.eventim.de.
Being a lion is wonderful have little depth up front, no genuine left-sided wide man, and www.eifelturm-koeln.de) there will be a fresh adaptation
Circusmusical by Gertrud Pigor, from 4 years in Steven Gerrard, Frank Lampard and David Beckham too of musical The Phantom of the Opera revolving around On 10 June the Guerzenich-Orchestra will be performing
many square pegs in round holes. England lack balance.
Horizont Theater, Thürmchenswall 25, tel. 13 16 04 Other nations in this tournament do not, and Brazil is one
football entitled “Das Phantom des Stadions”. The German- at the open-air Tanzbrunnen (Rheinweg 1, tel. 221 821
of them. Though the wealth of talent they have does – as it langauge musical tells the story of a trapped soul who 21 21). They will be playing works by Mozart, Bizet and
has to – mask their own failings, there is no question of their haunts a football stadium, reminiscing about the Glory days Strauss to name a few. For tickets contact Koelnticket at
coach Carlos Alberto Parreira using all six of his best attacking of German football. tel. 221 28 01.
players at the same time. Indeed. His decision to name his
first XI as long ago as April was classic one-upmanship: the
rest of the pack now knows exactly what it has to beat.
England as we have discussed, are not qualified to do so. World Cup Language Guide
With their original tactic of ‘keep it tight at the back and hope
Wayne knocks one in from 30 yards’ now out of the window. Tourist industry workers in Germany generally speak
They have woken up to discover there is no plan B. Expect English well, but thanks to the annoying habit of dubbing
then, a variation on plan A: ‘keep it tight at the back and hope everything foreign on television and in cinemas into
Frankie/Stevie/Becks knocks one in from 30 yards.’ Hardly German, the average local is not exposed to English very
the stuff of legend. much. That’s why we’ve composed a little list of terms
Is any other nation prepared to meet Brazil’s challenge? Of that may be of use during your trip.
the traditional ‘big guns’ Argentina looks frail and lacking in
cohesion, Italy – amid scandal at home – look less capable One/two/three/four/five Ein/zwei/drei/vier/fünf Bier,
even than England of putting together a decent run in the beer, please. bitte.
tournament, the host nation Germany currently possesses No thanks, I’ll have a Bit Nein Danke, ich hätte lieber
the worst team in their memory, Spain – crippled by the bizarre beer instead. ein Bit.
selection policy of its coach – will underachieve once more, So, who do you think will Was glaubst du, wer
and France are an ageing, wilting team hardly set for one last win? gewinnen wird?
glorious hurrah. Only Holland, conspicuously absent from all Where is the toilet? Wo ist die Toilette?
talk of potential winners, look capable of mounting a decent Where is the stadium? Wo ist das Stadion?
challenge to Brazil. And even that will depend on their mood. Where is the train Wo ist der Bahnhof?
Indeed, the In Your Pocket prediction is that Brazil’s likeliest station?
challengers will be an outsider. We – for no reason more That was offside. Das war Abseits.
scientific than a hunch – think the Ukraine will do well. We also The referee is biased. Der Schiedsrichter ist
like the look of the United States, and if they can find the net parteiisch.
often enough Portugal will do well. Yet none of these three He should have scored Das Tor hätte er schiessen
will beat an on-form Brazil. And Brazil are the best team in there. müssen.
Germany. Not since Italy surprised even themselves to take He’s hit the post/ Er hat den Pfosten / die
the trophy in 1982 has the best team in the World Cup gone crossbar! Latte getroffen
home empty handed. Take off (player name)! (player name) abziehen!
The cup then is Brazil’s to lose. We doubt very much that they Bring on (player name) (player name) einwechseln!
will do so. But as we said four years ago (while we were heavily
tipping France) in a cup competition, anything can happen…
Penalty! Elfmeter!
Sco Sco Goal! Toooooooooooooor!

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


12 KÖlsCh FestiVals 13

The skyline of Cologne


holds two very important Carnival The first night of Karneval is the biggest, and parties rage
throughout the city. The old stone fortifications are a favourite
features; th e Dom Karneval is Cologne’s most site for musicians and revellers alike to dance the night away,
Cathedral and the Kölsch famous celebration, and and provide a unique backdrop for the festivities. It is tradition
beer breweries. Laws the party spirit invades to wear outrageous costumes for Karneval, and half the fun
governing the production everybody. Although the of the festivities is admiring the creative choice of clothing.
of the fresh, pale beer festival is held in later It is not unusual to share an elevator at work with a pirate,
state that a brewer y wi n ter, i n C ol ogn e i t’s or to witness two people in full gorilla suits arguing about
may only label their beer possible to get a glimpse directions with a taxi driver.
Kölsch if they are able to of Karneval year round. There are often informal and formal processions that pass
physically see the Dom, through the city during Karneval, with some inviting party-
which generally means a Th e o ri gi n s o f t h e goers to join in. Streets are closed off for these processions,
radius of forty kilometres. celebration are a mixture of and there are almost always musicians playing as they
While beer itself has been pagan festivities marking march, and fire-breathers lighting up the night sky.
brewed in Cologne since the transition of seasons and the Christian celebration of Karneval lasts through to Monday (Rosenmontag), when
874, the term Kölsch was lent, and has been called the “fifth season”. The real meaning there is a huge procession of floats that pass through the
first coined in 1918 to of Karneval these days revolves around breaking free of streets of the city for 6km, throwing out candy and chocolate.
describe the beer brewed inhibition and going bonkers. It is tradition to shout out Kamelle (pronounced kamella) to
by the Sünner brewery. There is a wide variety of flavours The official beginning of Karneval is 11 November (at 11:11), get the attention of the passing float members for them to
amongst the different breweries, and often each local has which is like a warm-up party in preparation for the February throw something nice to you. More than 2 million people
their favourite. An average year finds the annual consumption madness. It hits like a hurricane; you are going about your each year attend the parade, and hundreds of thousands of
of Kölsch to be around 3 million hectolitres and it seems that day, business as usual and then suddenly you are drowned chocolates and candies rain down upon them. Rosenmontag
about half of that disappears during Karneval. in a sea of crazy costumes and riotous party-goers. And this has a great family atmosphere, and there are always big
The Kölsch that has become synonymous with Karneval is just the warm-up. The real action begins on a Thursday in smiles on the faces of the children as their bags of collected
(carnival) is Reissdorf, which has a unique flavour to it that February, seven Sundays before Easter. On this day straw candy grows heavier and heavier. Parents can expect to hear
some describe as burnt, and others as biscuity. There are effigies are raised above the doorways of the pubs and bars. complaints about stomach aches for days afterwards.
about thirty different breweries producing Kölsch, and some The purpose of these straw men called Nubbels is to absorb The adult’s candy comes in the form of Kölsch beer, which
are owned by a conglomerate which in some people’s minds the sins of the party-goers. This means that when you drink is drunk in mind-boggling quantities. It is common for kiosks
takes away from the character of the beer. Some breweries to an excess and make gratuitous sexual advances towards to raise their beer prices by over 30% during Karneval,
offer organised tours, and in 1999 the Zur Malzmühle many members of the opposite sex your sins are swallowed so be warned. Getting a drink inside a bar or pub is like
brewery was paid a surprise visit by Bill Clinton. and you can have a clear conscience! Not a bad deal, unless swimming against the tide, and many people can be found
When drinking Kölsch in a bar or a club you will find the prices you are the Nubbel. swilling Kölsch in the streets. Karneval winds down on the
to vary hugely. During happy hour you can find a 200ml glass Rosenmontag, and at twelve am on Tuesday the Nubbel is
for as little as €0.80, while another bar might charge upwards © Privatbrauerei Gaffel taken down and ceremoniously burnt, thereby releasing all
of €2.80. The difference is largely based on location rather the soaked up sins of the Karneval partiers into oblivion - the
than quality, and everywhere you go you can expect a decent poor Nubbel really does get a tough time. Accommodation
glass of beer. A nice place to sample lots of different Kölsch where you are served by Kölsch waiters called Köbes, who during Karneval is scarce, and it is encouraged to book a
and other beers is the Biermuseum at Buttermarckt. rush around making sure that no glass is empty. One of the year in advance in some hotels.
Kölsch is traditionally served in a tall 200ml glass called a signals you can give to indicate that you have had enough is
Kölsch-Stange. This tendency to serve such small quantities to put your beer coaster on top of the glass. If you go to one If you’re interested in carnival culture, there is a year-round
irritates some drinkers, who feel slightly effeminate (and of the breweries beer-halls you should expect to be served museum dedicated to the history and practices of Karneval
thirsty) drinking out of such small and delicate glasses, that type of Kölsch, and it is sociopathically bad taste to try in Cologne west of the centre.
although some bars and pubs serve irregular sizes like 300 to order a different one, but there is probably always at least Cologne Carnival Museum, Maar weg 134-136, (M)
or 400ml. The major breweries in Cologne have beer houses one customer who does. Müngersdorf, tel. 221 57 40 00, info@kk-museum.de, www.
kk-museum.de. Admission €4/1. Open 11:00 – 17:00, Thu
An ale of two cities 10:00-20:00, closed Mon.

When buying beer it is important to avoid making the


embarrassing social faux-pas of ordering Altbier. Altbier ColognePride
is a darker beer of a quite similar type to Kölsch that is Cologne’s other famous
brewed mainly around nearby Düsseldorf, and the rivalry festival is the gay
between the two cities finds expression in their choice of C ol o g n e P ri d e fe s ti va l,
beer. So don’t stroll into a pub in Cologne and wonder why h e l d f r o m 1 -1 6 J u l y
they do not serve Altbier and similarly expect bemused and culminating in th e
looks and mumbled obscenities if you ask for a Kölsch Christopher Street Day
in Düsseldorf. The rivalry of the two cities is nowadays Parade on the last day.
light-hearted, but if the point carries past a joke then The parade is a celebration
some locals can feel offended. After Karneval 2006, of gay pride and sexual
the supermarkets in Cologne had such an oversupply of tol e ra n c e, wi t h s t re e t
unsold Altbier that some had to reduce the price by 60% parties and processions in
just to get rid of it. the city centre. The festival
attracts many thousands
Everybody has their favourite brand of Kölsch, and it seems of visitors, both from within
that the only way to find yours is to try as much as you can. Germany and from overseas. For more information visit www.
We’re big fans of Mühlenkölsch, which has its own unique colognepride.de.
hoppy flavour. Each local will give you a list of reasons why
their preferred brand is better but at the end of the day it
just comes down to one thing: individuality. This sense of
individuality captivates the spirit of Cologne, and forms a
JvM
www.inyourpocket.com
© Brauerei Frueh big part of the soul of the city.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


14 Where to stay Where to stay 15

Maritim C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt, tel. 202


Hotel categories are based on the most expensive double
room rate. Prices are rack rates, and are expected to go Symbol key 70, fax 202 78 28, inf o.kol@maritim.de, w w w. €150-200
through the roof during the World Cup. maritime.de. A swish brass and marble affair with a Crowne Plaza A-3, Habsburgerring 9-13, MRudolphplatz,
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted glass lift shooting up and down between floors, Maritim tel. 22 80, fax 25 12 06, www.cologne-citycentre.crowne-
plaza.com. Located in a hip area, this is the perfect base for
Over €200 O Casino H Conference facilities can be found opposite Heumarkt. As well as boasting
lots of orange and a team of jovial bellboys, there’s DSL access to both the Dom and Altstadt, as well as the trendy cafes,
Hilton B-2, Marzellenstr. 13-17, MHauptbahnhof, tel. T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled internet in every room, baths in every room too, and lots restaurants and nightclubs that lie along the Ring’s fringe. If you
13 07 10, fax 13 07 20, info.cologne@hilton.com, hilton. R Internet W Wi-Fi L Guarded parking of dark wood fittings. Extras include conference facili- ask really nicely the porter will take you up onto the roof, where
de/koeln. Opulent designer overtones and an industrial grey ties, a smashing little tearoom and a piano bar. Per fect you get a magnificent view over Cologne from a surprisingly lofty
appearance lend a sophisticated air to one of Cologne’s best F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms for both business travellers and loving couples in town height. Q (145 singles N135 - 185, 149 doubles N150 - 200).
hotels. The rooms are, as one would expect, better than excep- K Restaurant M Nearest metro station for some serious cul ture and a bit of not-so serious ACDFGHKLPRTU
tional, featuring all the necessary gadgets plus beautiful oak shopping. Q (116 singles N147 - 318, 310 doubles
floors and breathtaking views of the Dom. Trivia buffs with be D Sauna C Swimming pool N165 - 343, 16 suites N398 - 1000). ACDFGH� Dom Hotel C-2, Domkloster 2a, MHauptbahnhof, tel.
delighted to learn that the England soccer team will be resting KLPTUW 202 40, fax 202 44 44, www.cologne.lemeridien.com.
here during the World Cup. Q AGKLPTUW Location, location, location and a €8.5 million facelift make this
Intercontinental C-3, Pipinstr. 1, MHeumarkt, Marriott C-1, Johannisstr. 76-80, MDom/Hauptbahn- spectacular hotel luxury personified. Lots of bright colours and
Hotel Im Wasserturm B-3, Kaygasse 2, MPoststr, tel. tel. 280 60, fax 28 06 11 11, cologne@ichotels- hof, tel. 94 22 20/94 22 27 77, cologne.marriott@ Italian black marble set the backdrop to services that include
200 80, fax 2 00 88 88, info@hotel-im-wasserturm.de, group.com, www.cologne.intercontinental.com. A marriotthotels.com, www.colognemarriott.com. Opened breathtaking rooms with complimentary bathrobes, wireless
www.hotel-im-wasserturm.de. Housed in an old watertower, ludicrously large lobby big ger than most hotels spells at the beginning of 2006, this Marriot is an example of how internet and state of the art business facilities, plus all the other
this is one of the most unique places to stay in Cologne, and one out loud and clear what you can expect at the Intercon- it should be done. The futuristic lobby impresses, without goodies one usually associates with a Le Meridien. If you can
of the most exclusive. The feat of creating a 5-star hotel here tinental. Impeccable and delightfully stylish, even the being garish, the martinis in the cocktail lounge have won afford it, or if your company is footing the bill, you can’t do a lot
has spawned spacious double-storey suites, beautiful views and lowest category rooms here are bordering on awesome. awards, the rooms are ultra comfortable and the service is better than a night here. Q (66 singles N150 - 395, 45 doubles
inimitable style. You might end up in a bed used by Madonna or With showers and baths in every room and copies of the impeccable. Q (10 suites N315 - 600, 184 King N165 - 429, N180 - 490, 13 suites N260 - 1100). AGHKLPW
Brad Pitt. Q (10 singles N180 - 265, 44 doubles N210 - 335, teachings of Buddha to go with the bibles by the beds 78 Twin N165 - 429, 1 Dom-
34 suites N240 - 385). ADGHKLPTU everything is bigger, better, and just that little bit differ- suite N365 - 800, 9 Studios
ent from the rest. Not a bad location either. Q (singles N315 - 600). ADFGH�
Hyatt Regency Köln D-2, Kennedy-Ufer 2a, MDeutzer N160 - 405, 250 doubles N190 - 445, 12 suites N350 - KLPRT
Freiheit, tel. 828 12 34, fax 828 13 70, cologne@regency. 1850). ACDFGHKLPTUW
hyatt.com, cologne.regency.hyatt.com. All of the rooms in Radisson SAS E-2, Messe
the Hyatt (the first Hyatt in Europe you’ll no doubt be told several Kunibert Der Fiese C-2, Am Bollwerk 1-5, MHeumarkt, Kreisel 3, MKölnmesse, tel.
hundred times before you check out) are of the same standard, tel. 9 25 46 80, fax 2 58 08 93, info@kunibertderfiese. 221 27 72 00, fax 22 12 77
which is of course the best possible standard. Vast golden de, www.kunibertderfiese.de. One of the best-located 20 10, info.cologne@radis-
corridors, immaculate rooms and an awesome suite overlook hotels in Cologne, right in the centre of the old town. There is sonsas.com, w w w.radis-
the Dom across the river, adding to the effect and making this a bustling restaurant at the front of the hotel, and the building sonsas.com. Wi t h sub tl y
one of the loveliest choices in the city. Slightly out of the centre, dates back to 1234 AD. The rooms are basic, and some with styled rooms, prim and proper
but if you can afford to stay here then several taxi rides a day a beautiful Rhine view. The service can sometimes be slow concierge and a bustling lobby,
aren’t going to hurt you. Q (288 doubles N135 - 450, 17 suites and vague. Q (9 singles N55 - 155, 9 doubles N65 - 205, 4 this hotel has something for
N320 - 1935). ACDFGHKLPTUW triples N85 - 225). AGKRT ever yone. One might bump
into Sarah Conner in the el-
evator, or perhaps join in the
celebrations with the Brazilian
World Cup fans, who are mak-
ing this hotel home-base for
2006. The fitness area gets
a little crowded when more
than two people use it though.
Q393 rooms (singles N110 -
378, d oubl es N110 - 369,
suites N195 - 480). AD�
FGHKLPRTU
hhhh

Ringhotel Kosmos
Wa l d e c ke r S t r . 1 1 - 1 5 ,
MWaldecker Str, tel. 6 70
90, fax 6 70 93 21, info@kos-
mos-hotel-koeln.de, www.
kosmos-hotel-koeln.de. Lay-
ing unassumingly in wait at the
beginning of the street, this
&INDYOUR(/-%SUITE(/-%INFOURDIFFERENTDESTINATIONSIN"ERLIN
hotel is an oasis in an otherwise /UREXCLUSIVELYFURNISHEDHOTELROOMSANDAPARTMENTS FOUR STARSERVICE
drab area. The hotel itself has ANDFASCINATINGSURROUNDINGSWILLMAKEYOURSTAYSOMETHINGOUTOFTHE
been family-run for 75 years, ORDINARY"ESIDESTHENORMALHOTELSERVICESSUCHASCLEANING RECEPTIONAND
with three family members still LAUNDRY WEPROVIDEANUMBEROFAMENITIESLIKESHUTTLESERVICE BIKERENTAL
doing shifts; a sign of commit- ORSHOPPINGSERVICE
ment considering the size of the 4AKEAVACATIONFROMTHEORDINARYnWETAKECAREOFALMOST EVERYTHING
hotel. All the perks you expect, WWWHOME SUITE HOMEDE
and prompt service to boot. Q
(55 singles N, 95 doubles N).
Sco ACDGKLPRT

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


16 Where to stay

Enjoy your stay at the


Dorint Sofitel An Der Messe E-2, Mullheimer Str. Holiday Inn Köln-Am Stadtwald Dürener Str. 287,
22-24, Deutz, MKöln Messe, tel. 80 19 00, fax 80 19 tel. 4 67 60, fax 43 37 65, www.koeln-am-stadtwald-
08 00, h5367@accor.com, www.dorint.com/koeln-city. holiday-inn.de. Located in a leafy area of Cologne, this hotel
More a small world than a large hotel, this Dorint is a Mecca offers a peaceful contrast to the busier centre. True to its
of comfort. The rooms are spacious and bright and will
soften the hardest heart, but the jewel in this Dorint’s crown
is the wellness area: saunas, spas, solariums, swimming
name, the hotel lies next to a sprawling forest and adjacent
to an animal farm. Spend a few extra euros and book one of
the rooms that overlook the small lake at the rear. Q (140
NH Nürnberg-City!
pool, massages… they had to drag us screaming from this singles N108 - 250, 140 doubles N108 - 250, 8 Exucutive
place. Q (86 singles N89 - 172, 133 doubles N89 - 190). N128 - 270). AGHKLPTU
ACDFGHKLPRTU
Jolly A-1, Im MediaPark 8b, MChristophestr./Medi-
Dorint Sofitel Mondial Am Dom C-2, Kurt-Hack- aPark, tel. 2 71 50, fax 2 71 59 99, reservation.jhk@
enberg-Platz 1, MDom/Hauptbahnhof, tel. 206 3 - 0, jollyhotels.de, www.jollyhotels.de. The MediaPark is a
fax 2 06 35 27, h1306@accor.com, www.sofitel.com. conglomerate of business offices, and the Jolly sits on the
You could not dream of a better situated hotel in Cologne. edge of it. As one can imagine the majority of guests are Close to the historic railway station and the pedestrian zones of „Breite Gasse”, „Königsstraße” and
Standing next to the Museum Ludwig, the Philharmonie, the businesspeople, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a „Kaiserstraße”, the NH Nürnberg-City offers you a warm welcome. The city’s most lovely museums invite
Romisch Germanisches Museum and the shadow of the Dom, unique character. The Italian heritage brings elegance to you to a cultural experience. At christmastime, a visit to the famous Christkindlesmarket for Mulled Wine,
this Sofitel is a favourite for those who can never get close the rooms, though not necessarily to the name, and there Lebkuchen and Nuremberg Sausages is a must. The trade fair and the airport are quickly reached as well.
enough to the action. The rooms are a little cramped, but well is quite a good view from the higher floors. Q (214 singles
equipped. Q (8 singles N95 - 340, 91 doubles N115 - 360, N160 - 320, 214 doubles N185 - 345, 4 suites N260 - 410).
8 suites N195 - 440). AFGKLPRTU ADFGHKLPRTU Our rooms are generously equipped and offer lots of room to relax. In addition
to a bath/shower and WC, all rooms have satellite TV, a mini bar, hairdryer,
Euro Garden C-1, Domstr. 10-16, MHauptbahnhof, Königshof B-2, Richartzstr. 14-16, MHauptbahnhof, air-conditioning as well as high speed internet access. In the fitness area with
tel. 16 49 - 0, fax 16 49 - 333, sekretariat@eurotels. tel. 257 87 71, fax 257 87 62, hotel@hotelkoenigshof.
its sauna, solarium and steam bath, you will find an opportunity to relax and
de, www.eurotels.de. A good standard mid-range choice com, www.hotelkoenigshof.com. Industry standard Ger-
just around the corner from the hauptbahnhof, Euro Garden man boiled sweets on reception and cheerful staff keep rejuvenate. Revitalize yourself for the day at our generous and healthy break-
features a choice of comfortable rooms with wireless inter- watch over a choice of bright, cheerful and slightly feminine fast buffet.
net, modern bathrooms and one or two good views if you rooms with even more sweets on the pillows. Located close
choose your room carefully. The staff are friendly and helpful, to the Dom, extras include hotel pickup in a Rolls Royce
and despite being a bit on the expensive side for what you for those who can afford it and a bar full of photographs of
get the hotel is a fine place to stay if you want to explore famous guests you’ve never heard of. The perfect choice for
the centre without having to do too much travelling. Q (17 retired couples and business ladies on an expense account. The various business services of our hotel are at your
singles N120 - 245, 68 doubles N120 - 245, 1 suite N245). Q (40 singles N79 - 198, 42 doubles N99 - 225, 4 suites demand whenever you require them for a seminar, mee-
ADGHKLPUW N215 - 315). AGLPW
ting or large event. 7 function rooms for up to 290 people,
Lyskirchen C-2, Filzengraben 26-32, MHeumarkt, tel. 2 fully air-conditioned and equipped with the latest in con-
09 77 04, fax 2 09 77 26, nathalie.coulon@eventhotels. ference technology offer ideal conditions. Our business
com, www.hotel-lyskirchen.com. Recently refurbished, service team will assist you in every detail of planning and
this colourful yet elegant hotel combines a German sense of
hospitality with a cosmopolitan air. Just off a side street from organization.
the Rhine, on Sundays you find a classy flea-market across
the street. The chocolate museum is across the road also,
so prepare to waddle back like a chocolate-stuffed duck. Q
(21 singles N79 - 195, 75 doubles N102 - 279, 9 apartments Experience “nhube”, our new Discover the new multifunctional
N99 - 265). ACDGLPRT
restaurant idea that’s simply area created by Ferran Adrià and NH
Park Consul Clevischer Ring 121-123, tel. 9 64 70/9 made for watching TV, surfing Hoteles, where restaurant services,
64 71 00, reservations.pckoeln@consul-hotels.com, the internet, enjoying culinary leisure and entertainment are com-
www.pckoeln.consul-hotels.com. Located in a mostly delicacies, reading or simply bined.
residential area, this hotel is suited to families and business-
men. The rooms are quite sunny, with big windows overlooking relaxing.
the neighbouring park. The adjoining restaurant provides
international cuisine with a little Koelsch flair. Q (2 singles
N69 - 215, 186 doubles N89 - 240, 8 suites N109 - 255).
ADFGHKLPRT Enjoy the exceptional cuisine Feel the pleasure of reading,
which Ferran Adrià has listening to music, having a
Savoy B-2, Turinerstr. 9, MAppelhofplatz, tel. 162 exclusively prepared for you. meal… in a setting which
30, fax 162 32 00, off ice@hotelsavoy.de, w w w. Varied, simple and exquisite. has been designed to cater
hotelsavoy.de. A truly delightful boutique hotel right in
the city centre, the owners have gone to great lengths to
for all your needs.
provide a quirky and fun atmosphere with African and Asian
themed floors and rooms featuring huge wooden giraffes
in the corridors, bizarre furniture, flat screen televisions
and plenty of luxury. The downstairs toilets have tropical
fish tanks in them, the in-house bar has been fitted out
with leopard skin chairs and the purple restaurant is run
by an Australian chef, meaning there’s always kangaroo NH NÜRNBERG-CITY
on the menu. Really nice staff too. Highly recommended. Bahnhofstraße 17-19 | 90402 Nürnberg
Q (38 singles N140 - 300, 44 doubles N170 - 400, 15 T. 0911 9999-0 | F. 0911 9999-100
Sco suites N345 - 600). ADGKLP
nhnuernbergcity@nh-hotels.com www.nh-hotels.com

Cologne In Your Pocket


18 Where to stay Where to stay 19

Am Chlodwigplatz C-4, Merowingstr. 33, MChlod- Constantin D-2, Constantinstr. 78, MKöln Deutz, tel.
wigplatz, tel. 9 31 24 40, fax 33 14 84, team@hotel- 8 27 80, fax 81 89 50, hotelconstantin@t-online.de,
am-chlodwigplatz.de, www.hotel-am-chlodwigplatz. www.hotelconstantinkoeln.de. This hotel changed hands
de. A charming hotel with a strong sense of hospitality. in 2005, and is undergoing renovation and refurbishment. Built
The bar is almost kitschy and at the same time irresist- in 1907, the building is protected, and each room is slightly
ible. The hotel is located within a relaxed walking distance different, which adds to the appeal. Enjoy the 1970s room
to the Volksgarten, along parisienne-like streets. While it décor and the old-school bar at the front. Q (14 singles
may be a little difficult to find it is truly a hidden treasure. N45 - 85, 20 doubles N60 - 160). AGR
Q (15 singles N55 - 80, 8 doubles N90 - 106, 4 triples
N106 - 124). AL Dorint Novotel Köln City C-3, Bayenstr. 51, MHeu-
markt, tel. 80 14 70, fax 80 14 71 48, h3127@accor.
An der Philharmonie C-2, Große Neugasse 36-38, com, www.novotel.com. Boasting Rhein views, fitness and
MHauptbahnhof, tel. 258 06 79, fax 258 06 67, info@ wellness area, cocktail bar and a Mediterranean restaurant,
hotel-allegro-koeln, www.hotel-an-der-philharmonie.de. A this well situated hotel pleases everyone who stays there
charming family-run boutique hotel close to the river and the (which seems to be mostly businessmen). The views over
Philharmonie as the name suggests, find free internet in the the southern part of the centre are less pretty, but quieter.
lobby and cute wallpapered rooms with wooden furnishings In five minutes walk you are in the Altstadt. Reservations
throughout. The rooms mostly come with a shower only, but also for 1Bed and 3Bed rooms. Q (220 doubles N49 - 309).
are bubbling with character, and the suite although nothing ADFGHKPRT
too fancy is great value. Q (10 singles N63 - 135, 25 doubles
N79 - 140, 6 suites N89 - 150). AGHLP Good Sleep B-2, Komödienstr. 19-21, MHauptbahn-
hof, tel. 257 22 57, fax 257 22 59, info@goodsleep.
Sco Berg C-1, Brandenburgerstr. 6, MHauptbahnhof, tel. de, www.goodsleep.de. The workers’ canteen of the hotel
12 11 24, fax 139 00 11, hotel@hotel-berg.com, www. world, Good Sleep balances a great location with cheap and
The New Yorker Hotel Mülheimer Str. 204, Deutz, hotel-berg.com. A small family-run hotel that offered us cheerful accommodation and gets the mix just right. The
MGrünstr, tel. 4 73 30/4 73 31 00, reservation@ the very best German hospitality by refusing to show us rooms are clean and minimal, with lino floors, basic beds and
thenewyorker.de, www.thenewyorker.de. Staying here anything when we visited. All we can say is that the location a choice of en suite and excellent shared bathroom facilities.
feels like staying at a rich friend’s place. Adorned with chic is pretty good, but the staff haven’t got much time for visi- A superb hotel for the cost-conscious traveller, be sure to
couches, a well sculpted garden, library, fitness room, sauna tors. Check their appalling website for further information if book well in advance. Q (12 singles N35 - 250, 25 doubles
and solarium, it’s perfect for those seeking a personal touch. you must. Q (8 singles N41 - 135, 11 doubles N49 - 145). N35 - 250). GP
Q (7 singles N109 - 246, 33 doubles N129 - 268). AD� ADHLPW
FGLPRT Haus Berger Uferstr. 73, MSiegstr, tel. 22 19 35 52
Caprice C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 7-9, MHeumarkt, tel. 40, fax 221 935 52 46, rezeption@hotel-haus-berger.
92 05 40, fax 92 05 41 00, reservierung@cityclass.de, de, www.hotel-haus-berger.de. Sitting on the shore of
€75-150 www.cityclass.de. An absolute swine to find being located the Rhein, this hotel adjoins and overlooks the Berger camp-
AAA BudgetHotel Eupener Str. 161, MTechnolo- in a square rather than on the street marked on the map, ing ground. Right next door is a preserved nature area that
giePark, tel. 221 49 70 20, fax 22 14 85 10 01, hotel@ once you’ve found it Caprice is well worth it. Right in the tour- stretches for miles, and across the road are farming pastures Marienburger Bonotel Bonner Str. 478, MBayanth-
tpk.de, www.aaa-budgethotel.de. Straightforward and ist trap area by Heumarkt, being in a secluded area means with horses. The hotel itself is a family affair, and friendliness algürtel, tel. 370 20, fax 3 70 21 32, info@bonotel.de,
comfortable for the price, this place will satisfy you if you it’s peaceful, and the rooms, by no means the epitome of pervades the spirits of the guests. Q (7 singles N45 - 65, 7 www.bonotel.de. A little out of the way, and slightly hard to
need to budget. As well as doubles there are two types of luxury, are clean albeit unrenovated. All rooms come with a doubles N70 - 100, 1 triple N85 - 115). KLT get to, but worth the distance for the wellness area. Spas,
singles; normal singles and no-room-to-swing-a-cat singles. shower only with the exception of the suite, and extras are saunas and solariums are all inclusive, which, coupled with
Get there with the train, or face an uneventful 15 minute walk few and far between. Q (12 singles N45 - 249, 41 doubles Ibis Köln City Messe/Arena E-2, Brügelmannstr. 1, the elegantly styled rooms, leaves a guest wondering why
from the tram stop. Q29 rooms (singles N44 - 80, doubles N59 - 299). ADGLPW MKöln Messe, tel. 98 93 10, fax 98 93 15 55, www. the hotel is not more expensive. Q (55 singles N65 - 235,
N63 - 100). AGHLPRT ibishotels.com. An Ibis is an Ibis is an Ibis, and guess what? 34 doubles N74 - 235, 4 suites N145 - 435). ADFG�
Coellner Hof B-1, Hansaring 100, MHansaring, tel. 16 This is an Ibis. It has all the features that satisfy, and is per- KLPT
Alemania C-1, Domstr. 23-25, MDom/Hauptbahnhof, 66 0, fax 166 166, info@coellnerhof.de, www.coellner- fectly located for trade fairs and sightseeing. Relatively cheap
tel. 912 83 40, fax 912 83 49, www.alemania-hotel. hof.de. There are many types of rooms here, and they all compared to the haughty neighbouring hotels, however the NH Köln City C-3, Holzmarkt 47, MHeumarkt, tel.
de. This family-owned and -run hotel is in a slightly ugly area, have their own character. Some rooms are called “country” breakfast room may be flooded by tour bus-loads of guests 2 72 28 80, fax 2 72 28 81 00, nhkoeln@nh-hotels.
but is still very close to the Dom and the Altstadt. The area style, which means lots of wood. The service is pretty sharp at times. also reservations for 1bed rooms Q (180 doubles com, w w w.nh-hotels.com. This hotel has a profes-
surrounding the hotel is severely lacking in good restaurants which is surprising considering how busy they are. The good N65 - 74). AGKLPR sional atmosphere to it, which at times feels a little
though, and you have to cross an awkward train station to get location is most of the attraction here, especially if your trip impersonal bu t also is non-intrusive. The rooms are
into the centre. Q (6 singles N59 - 64, 22 doubles N79 - 89, is for business. Q (40 singles N65 - 150, 38 doubles N85 - Im Kupferkussel A-2, Probsteigasse 6, MChristoph- tidy, well organised and business-like. Even though it lies
2 triples N120). AGL 195, 14 triples N105 - 205). ADGKLRT strasse/MediaPark, tel. 2 70 79 60, fax 27 07 96 29, on the Rhein the view isn’t too great, but the location
info@im-kupferkessel.de, www.im-kupferkessel.de. is one of the big selling points. also reser vations for
Located in a quiet part of the centre, this family-run hotel will 1bed rooms Q 205 rooms (204 doubles N75 - 285).
suit anyone looking for a homey atmosphere. The breakfast ADGHKLPRTU
room has a very German charm to it, even including a wooden
spiral staircase leading to the owner’s rooms. Q (10 singles Prodomo Deutz-Mülheimerstr. 184, tel. 96 46 00,
N32 - 80, 3 doubles N69 - 118). AL fax 96 46 02 00, koeln@prodomo-hotel.de, www.
prodomo-hotel.de. A 20-minute ride on the U-bahn from
Kolpinghaus Messehotel D-3, Theodor-Hürth-Str. the city centre this prefabricated budget hotel has seen
2-4, MSüvenstrasse, tel. 88 04 47 10, fax 8 80 447 better days, which probably weren’t all that good then.
19, hallo@kolpingh-messehotel.de, www.kolping-messe- Still, it’s a fairly friendly place, and if your looking for a
hotel.de. Situated in a residential street, this hotel looks and cramped room with cable television and a basic shower
feels like a comfortable block of apartments, no doubt due with breakfast in exchange for not too much money then
to the recent refurbishment. The service is very good, and Prodomo is your place. A bit niffy in places, make sure you
the bar inside the hotel has a Rhenish charm about it. Well have a good sniff inside a room or two before you make
suited to businessmen and families, but too distant for walk- your pick. Q (1 single N35 - 105, 131 doubles N51 - 145).
ing excursions into town. Q (2 singles N69 - 89, 20 doubles AKLPU
N89). AGKLRTU

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


20 Where to stay restaurants 21

Residence C-2, Alter Markt 55, MHeumarkt, tel. 920 19


80, fax 92 01 98 99, reservierung@cityclass.de, www. Hostels American Symbol key
cityclass.de. Ghastly yellow corridors and a pensive lift await Jugendherberge Köln-Deutz D-2, Siegestr. 5, Hard Rock Café A-2, Gürzenichstr. 8, MHeumarkt, tel.
guests inside this city centre budget hotel. The rooms all come MMesse Deutz, tel. 81 47 11, fax 88 44 25, koeln- 221 272 68 80, www.hardrock.com. If you are familiar with P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
with a distinct lack of trimmings, tasteless 80s furniture, Pay TV, deutz@jugendherberge.de, www.koeln-deutz.jugend- the layout of a Hard Rock Café then you can probably find your E Live music S Take away
showers and little else. Although perfectly adequate and far from herberge.de. This modern hostel feels like a school, with way around here in the dark. There is music paraphernalia on
grotty, one word of warning about taking a place in such a good young crowds talking boisterously in the lobby much of the the walls, loud rock playing on the sound system, and burgers. T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
location is that good locations fill with people who more often time. The position is good, and the rooms are clean and The vast majority of patrons are from outside Germany, and G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
than not drink lots of beer (the hotel is dangerously close to two well cared for. There seems to be a lot of large groups it’s interesting to sit and listen to all the different langauges.
Irish pubs) and start singing, usually under your window and more staying there, either for school trips or backpackers. Q AEP O Casino M Nearest bus station
often than not just as you’re falling asleep. Take earplugs or drink Q (71 singles N39, 71 doubles N59, 72 triples N93). R Internet W Wi-Fi connection
even more than the neighbours do and you’ll be just fine. Q (11 AGHLU Joe Champs A-3, Hohenzollernring 1-3, MRudolphplatz,
singles N45 - 314, 45 doubles N59 - 279). AGHLW tel. 221 257 28 54, www.joe-champs.com. Joe Champs
Jugendherberge Köln-Riehl An Der Schanz 14,
Rhein-Hotel St. Martin C-3, Frankenwerft 31-33, MBoltonsternstr, tel. 76 70 81, fax 76 15 55, jh-
serves up a hefty slice of Americana here. Typical dishes
are predictably burgers, steaks and pizzas while the décor Beer houses
MHeumarkt, tel. 257 79 55, fax 257 78 75, rheinhotel@ koeln-riehl-programme@djh-rheinland.de, www.djh- revolves around American sport memorabilia. The restaurant Bier Esel B-2, Breite Str. 114, tel. 257 60 90. For tradition-
netcologne.de, www.koeln-altstadt.de/rheinhotel. A rheinland.de. Best suited to those travelling in groups, is patronised mostly by international guests; a German accent al Koelsch cuisine the “beer donkey” restaurant/beer-house is
small budget hotel next to the river, ideal for people wanting as a lone traveller may feel isolated and lonely in this is almost out of place here. Q AEP great, and the ambiance is decidedly old fashioned. Hundreds
to get the most from the city for the least expense and who hostel’s college-atmosphere. It’s well situated, if a little of antique pepper-grinders line the walls, and it is hard not to
can get through life without a trouser press. The unrenovated
facilities are basic and clean, featuring a choice of humble
distant which is no problem if you rent a bike as the ride into
town is stunning. Q (114 singles N22 - 34, 114 doubles Asian spend a long time staring at them. In the rear there is a comfort-
able outside area. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AB
rooms, some en suite and some with shared bathroom facili- N27). AGLU Anothai A-3, Hohenstaufenring 15, MBarbarossaplatz,
ties. One of the best choices in the city for those who plan to tel. 221 397 69 70. Thai restaurants are either too noisy or Brauhaus Früh am Dom C-2, Am Hof 12-14, MHeu-
spend most of their time out and about and who just need a Station Hostel Backpackers B-2, Marzellenstr. too quiet, and this one is the former. Their crispy baked duck markt, tel. 261 30, www.frueh.de. A vast beer hall and
comfy bed and cable television close to the last bar they fall 44-56, MAppelhofplatz, tel. 912 53 01, fax 912 is probably what attracts the crowd. Anothai also does some restaurant on three floors with seating for 1,500 people,
out of in the middle of the night. Q (23 singles N28 - 90, 19 53 03, station@hostel-cologne.de, www.hostel-co- really good fish dishes, if you can handle the chilli. Q Open gorgeously decorated in an early 20th-century brauhaus
doubles N44 - 145, 2 apartments N90 - 225). AGL logne.de. Ikea furniture and lots of plants in the rooms 12:00-14:30, 18:00-24:00. Sat 18:00-24:00. AP style with wood panel walls and huge ceramic tiled stoves,
create a ver y un-h ostel t ype of h ostel h ere. Bet ter put this on your list of places to go if you go nowhere else.
Weber A-3, Jahnstr. 22, MZülpicherstr, tel. 27 22 99 looking that just about any thing in its class, facilities Kintaro A-2/3, Friesenstr. 16, MFriesenplatz, tel. 221 Frequented by a menagerie of classy locals, the menu is a
50, fax 272 29 95 40, rezeption@hotelweber.de, www. include iron-frame beds and a choice of basic en suit 13 52 55. This modern Japanese restaurant as developed combination of local and international cuisine and the beer
hotelweber.de. German comfort and style at an affordable showers or excellent shared bathroom facilities. To save a very good reputation over the years for their outstanding comes courtesy of the local Früh brewery. With additional
price, this place is a favourite for regular guests. There is you getting lost in the labyrinth of corridors, a large red sushi and sashimi. This has unfortunately pushed the prices outside seating in the summer and an all-round laid-back
a garden at the rear that invites quite reading and coffee- stripe with stencilled signposts has been added along up, but you can be assured of top quality fish. The set-up is atmosphere, this is precisely the kind of thing that makes
sipping. Being a stone’s throw from Zülpicherplatz, there is the walls throughout. Q (3 singles N35, 20 doubles modern, and they have a comfortable outside seating area Germany such an attractive place to visit. Brilliant stuff.
always something to do at night around this hotel. Q (13 N28 - 50). A in the back. Q Open 12:00-14:00, 18:30-23:00, Mon, Fri QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AB
singles N45 - 65, 14 doubles N65 - 95). AGLT 18:30-23:00. Closed Sun. ABP
Camping Sumo A-3, Aachener Str. 17-19, MRudolphplatz, tel.
Airport hotels Camping Berger Uferstrasse 71, Rodenkirchen, 0221 222 15 90, www.sumo-restaurant.de. A perfect
Mercure Hotel Köln Airport Hauptstr. 369, MPorz MSiegstrasse, tel. 221 935 52 40, fax 221 935 52 46, example of fantastic Japanese service and delicate Japanese
Markt, tel. 55036, fax 5 59 31, h2018@accor-hotels.com, camping.berger@t-online.de, www.camping-berger- food, and more importantly; Japanese beer. Swill some saki
www.mercure.com. A recently renovated hotel that meets koeln.de. There is an undeniable community spirit here at and Asahi here while enjoying the freshest sushi in Cologne.
the needs of many guests seeking repose near the airport, the camping ground, and the location is beautiful. The trails Located along the very trendy Aachener Strasse, this restau-
and is one of the best equipped for it. The river Rhine is directly along the Rhein are perfect for cycling. A rather alarming rant is the perfect starting point for a great night out. Q Open
behind the hotel, and it is well worth the little extra cash to get measure stick shows the various flood water levels of past Tue-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30-23:00.
a room with a beautiful view. dial before: 02203 Q (9 singles years. Q L Closed Mon. AP
N91 - 219, 50 doubles N115 - 219). AGKLPR
Taku B-2, Domplatz, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 270 39 10,
www.taku.de. A river of fish built into the floor and a catwalk
welcome the rich and famous of Cologne inside one of the
swankiest and frighteningly expensive restaurants in Ger-
many. Specialising in Asian food from Japan, China, Vietnam
and Thailand and featuring a small bar serving Asian cock-
tails, the food and the service are both outstanding, which
goes some way to justifying spending your weekly grocery
bill on something that leaves you feeling like you could eat a
little more at the end of it. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00
- 24:00. A

Viman Luxemburger Str. 185, MWießhausstr, tel. 221


421 06 71. One of the more remote restaurants, but also one
of the best. The service is very good here, and the furnishing
has been set up well to create a genuine Vietnamese atmo-
sphere. If you’re tired of Thai food then try the subtleties of
Vietnamese cuisine - this restaurant is the place to get your
fix. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:00-24:00. AP

www.inyourpocket.com
Sco Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


22 restaurants restaurants 23

Café Storch A-3, Aachenerstr. 17, MRudolphstr, tel. Bon Ami B-2, Komödienstr. 50-52, MAppelhofplatz,
221 25 17 17. Enjoy the best hot chocolate in town here Fast food tel. 922 76 52, www.bon-ami.de. A small, award-win-
with the eclectic regulars, writing, reading and romancing in Oruc Kebab A-3, Kyffhäuser Str./Heinsbergstr., ning restaurant with a very hands-on owner, exquisite food
this cosy, original café. Monday night finds fledgling authors MBarbarossaplatz. The best kebab joint in town. A kebab and thoughtful inclusions such as things to keep children
reading their work, be it good or bad, amongst mountains from Oruc’s will be in your memory forever, but in a good way. amused. Popular with business professionals and families
of candle wax, yellow walls and minimal pretentiousness. Whether you drop by before a big night on the town, or just alike, the small French and Mediterranean menu changes
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. €3-8. B swing past to cap off a massive binge you will find satisfac- daily, and there’s a wonderful wine list to boot. Be warned
tion here. There is window-sill hippy seating so you can watch though that places like these don’t come cheap. If you
Fromme B-2, Breite Str. 122-126, MAppellhofplatz, tel. the passers by. can afford €14.50 for a soup then this is the right place
221 257 61 57. If you wake up one morning and decide that for you. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed
you simply must eat cake immediately, then this is the place
for you. There is an extensive outside seating area, which Fine dining Sat, Sun. AT

provides the perfect place to soak up the sun while enjoying La Vision B-3, Kaygasse 2, MPoststr, tel. 22 12 00 Capricorn I Aries C-4, Alteburgerstr. 34, MChlodwig-
coffee and a few cakes (just one piece is not enough). The 80. Crowning the glory that is the Hotel Im Wasserturm, platz, tel. 221 32 31 82. This restaurant has four tables,
café itself has been going since 1893, and it looks like it will this restaurant is very unique and highly renowned. Earn- scatters rose petals outside every night and serves caviar
keep on going forever. Q ABP ing itself a Michelin star and a reputation for outstanding and foie gras. Started in 2002, this gourmet kitchen offers
© KölnTourismus/ Günther Ventur service, La Vision will not fail to impress. There is outside something very special. If you find it booked full then their
Holtmann’s Café C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHaupt- seating in the warmer nights along the terrace overlooking brasserie across the road is a very decent substitute, if
Brauhaus Gaffel C-2, Alter Markt 20-22, MHeumarkt, bahnhof, tel. 25 09 99 77, www.holtmanns.com. Vast Cologne. Spend a relaxing half hour reading the wine list. not compliment. There is a French style to the menus,
tel. 257 76 92, www.gaffel-haus.de. A fun beer hall sell- and tinkly, the Ludwig Museum’s café is, as one would Q Open Tue-Sat 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:00. Closed Sun, and a comfortable atmosphere which cushions the impact
ing the local Gaffel Kölsch and little else, this well located expect, brimming with arty types and students. Serving Mon. ABEP h of the bill. Q Open Wed-Sun 19:00-22:30. Closed Mon,
boozer is decorated with lots of wooden benches and old better coffee that many, they do unfortunately feel the need Tue. AP
tiled walls, and is a huge hit with the local 40-something set,
seemingly as sick as the rest of us with the current obses-
to employ someone to bash out rotten tunes on a grand
piano. But all is not lost, as the vast ceiling-to-floor windows French La Societe A-3, Kyffhäuserstr. 53, MBarbarossaplatz,
sion with pretentious cocktails in hideous surroundings. overlook the regular pantomime enacted on top of the roof Bar Tabac A-3, Aachener Str. 21, MRudolphplatz, tel. tel. 221 23 24 64. The atmosphere inside this leading
Why anyone would want to start a world war when there are of the Philharmonie every time a performance takes place. 221 258 92 19, www.bartabac.de. De-facto French terri- restaurant is quite dark and heavy, but the food by contrast
bars like this to hang around in is anyone’s guess. QOpen Go and have a look for yourself. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. tory. Once inside, the street sounds drop away and you are is delicate and light. Anyone not accustomed to bärlauch
11:00 - 01:00. AB Closed Mon. AE in a world of acid jazz and soufflé. It is actually a very large (bear’s or wood garlic) should try the eponymous soup, which
place, and offers great French food and yet has somehow is the best introduction you can have to the taste. The mains
Brauhaus Reissdorf B-3, Kleiner Griechenmarkt Orlando A-3, Engelbertstr. 9, MZülpicherplatz, tel. avoided the inherent pomposity most French restaurants are a little pricey, but well worth it. Some people come here
40, MPoststr., tel. 21 92 54. Five minutes west of 0221 23 75 23, www.cafeorlando.de. One of the few exude here. Q A specially for their fantastic desserts. Q AP
Neumarkt in a quiet, leafy part of the city, this beer hall is completely non-smoking cafés in Köln. Enjoy the clean air
almost swanky. The beer on offer is the wonderful Reiss- as well as the breakfast selection, the variously flavoured
dorf Kölsch, and there’s a large menu of typical German coffees and the elegant design. The service might not be Full listings on-line: www.inyourpocket.com
fare as well as a few surprises such as Russian eggs the quickest in town, but they have an apple and walnut
and potato pancakes on offer as well. Great for evenings cake that will rock your world. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00.
out with large groups. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, Fri, Sat BEGP
16:00 - 24:00. A

Weissbraeu zu Köln B-3, Am Weidenbach 24, Chinese


MEifelstr., tel. 221 23 18 23, w w w.weissbraeu. Canton C-2, Heumarkt 45, MHeumarkt, tel. 258 23 65.
com. The attraction of this brew-house is its Weissbier, Golden dragons set into the ceiling and a saucy middle-aged
a cloudy white beer that is both refreshing and filling. The waitress in tight shorts are reasons enough to swing by this
food is solidly German, with slight leaning to the south restaurant, and if it’s decent Chinese food you’re after then
- you can’t have Weissbier without Bavarian food. Try they’ve got a bit of that as well. The menu is fairly extensive
the blood sausage if you dare. You can buy three types albeit unimaginative, and they also do a good value weekday
of home brew in 2 litre quantities for €5, providing you lunch for around €10 (11:30 - 15:00). Q Open 11:00 - 15:00,
return the jug, other wise it costs €10 more. Q Open 17:30 - 23:00. A
11 - 01-00. AB
China Jumbo’s B-2, Perlenpfuhl 6, MNeumarkt,
tel. 258 17 18. Ignore the set menus and enjoy the very
Cafés best that China Jumbo’s has to offer, that being a gigantic
Café Duddel Zülpicher Wall 8, MDasselstr, tel. 221 eat-all-you-can buffet (12:00 - 15:30 and 18:00 - 21:00)
42 88 63. A great little café in an out of the way location. for just €7.80 during the week and €9.20 on Saturdays
Spend hours here enjoying huge bowls of hot chocolate and and Sundays. The range is immense, including pork, beef,
delicious soups, while perhaps reading, writing or playing one chicken, spring rolls, friend rice, noodles, soup and salad,
of the board games that they have available for patrons. You and it’s good too. Great value. Highly recommended.
can easily lose a day in this cruisy place. QOpen 10:00 - QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. A
02:00. P
Peking am Dom B-2, Marzellenstr. 2-8, MHaupt-
Café Heumarkt C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt, bahnhof, tel. 13 76 44. Specialising in Cantonese food,
tel. 202 70. Despite being a hotel café this place is Peking am Dom, once you’ve managed to find the door,
really rather nice. Shades of Ar t Deco and a rocking is reminiscent of something you’d find in China itself, be-
horse for overactive infants make the imbibing of fancy ing neither ostentatious nor grotty. Proof of its class is
teas and the nibbling of fancy cakes that bit more enjoy- witnessed by the scores of Chinese locals who use the
able. During the summer months, when the Heumarkt place regularly, eating from a separate menu of authentic
is burstin g wi th foreigners, Café Heumark t offers a food that is only available to those who can read Chinese.
pleasant escape from the ghastly masses, and is wor th Entrance in around the corner from the actual address,
more investigation. Surprisingly recommended. Q Open through a plain door and up a couple of flights of stairs.
10:00 - 18:00. A QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


24 restaurants restaurants 25

L’Escalier B-3, Brüsseler Str. 11, MMoltkestr, tel. 221 Der Löwenbräu C-2, Frankenwer f t 21, MHeu-
205 39 98. This French restaurant exudes an air of exclusivity markt, tel. 257 45 40, w w w.der-lowenbrau.de.
from the outside. The menu itself is a mixture of French and Featuring the kind of staff you usually find in a five-star
German cuisine, with a leaning towards the delicious. The dé- hotel, Der Löwenbräu, smack bang in the middle of tour-
cor lacks imagination, but the food does not. The restaurant ist hell, is a delight. Choose to eat among wooden walls
is located on a relatively quiet street, and there is a peaceful covered in paintings and old photographs of Cologne
atmosphere in the area. Q Open 12:00-14:00, 18:30-22:00, or outside by the river if the weather’s warm enough.
Mon, Sat 18:30-22:00. Closed Sun. AP The menu features the legendar y Nuremberg sausage
alongside the usual sauerkrau t, pork knuckle, lamb
German and fish. Forgetting the fact that they pander passing
tour groups with a menu of drear y Italian dishes, this
Bacchus A-3, Rathenauplatz 17, MZülpicherplatz, place knocks the spots off its competitors. Q Open
tel. 221 21 79 86, www.weinstubebacchus.de. A little 10:00 - 03:00. AB
outside garden area at the front is one of the best places
to drink wine in the town, with flowers and vines surrounding Feynsinn A-3, Rathenaplatz 7, MZülpicherplatz, tel.
you. If you are looking for a nice, peaceful night out then this 22 12 40 92 10. Situated next to a sedate park, this
is the place for you. The food is traditional German cuisine, café is a bustling hive of eating, drinking and socialising.
but their main focus is on wine. Q ABP There is a friendly atmosphere inside, and the music is
laid back. It is not such a big place, and it can get a little
Bei Oma Kleinmanns A-3, Zülpicher Str. 9, MZülpi- crowded in there, but the food is fresh and filling. QOpen
cherplatz, tel. 221 23 23 46. For a good, filling, traditional 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
German meal there is no better place to go than Granny Closed Wed, Thu. A
Kleinmann. The climate is a little smoky and loud but the
food is great and cheap. If you like wood then you will love Haus Zims C-2, Heumarkt 77, MHeumarkt, tel. Sco
the interior, which to our eyes can be a bit dark. QOpen 258 12 61. A very German affair indeed, Haus Zims is an
Graugans D-2, Kennedy-Ufer 2a, MDeutzer Freiheit,
17:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. A unpretentious restaurant that attracts a good number of
locals as well as tourists, thanks in part to its relaxed and Greek tel. 82 81 17 28. Closed during research, the Hyatt’s
Bootshaus Alte Liebe Am Leinpfad, MSchönhauser Str, cheerful staff and not least because of the heart attack- Aphrodite Aachener Str. 698, Junkersdorf, MAlter gourmet restaurant is a German-Asian fusion affair with great
tel. 221 39 23 61, www.bootshaus-alte-liebe.de. There inducing food on offer. The reasonably priced menu includes Militärring, tel. 221 49 33 31. If you like Greek food, then views of the city, pink orchids, splashes of modern art and
could be no more perfect place to enjoy a Sunday afternoon, the standard roll call of schnitzel, sausages and sauerkraut, a trip out to Aphrodite is a must. Because of its remote loca- an extensive wine list featuring the very best of Californian,
listening to the Rhein waters flow past the former boatshouse the fearsome Farmer’s Pan (pork chop, bacon and grilled tion it has relied solely on the quality of its food to attract German, French and Italian wines, many the produce of small
while basking in the sun and eating traditional Rhenish food. On sausage) and a few exotic surprises including ostrich and a customers, and it has paid off. The aroma that greets you is vineyards. Award-winning and very posh, watch this space
the downside, it is a little pricey and the service can be slow. highly commendable wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, a delicate mixture of olive oil and spices, and it is beyond any for more details. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00.
Under the Rodenkirchener bridge. Q AB Sat 10:00 - 01:00. B normal human’s power to resist eating enough to require a Closed Sat, Sun. A
loosening of the belt. Q Open 12:00-14:30, 17:30-23:00.
Closed Mon. ABP Hornsleth Im Apropos A-2, Mittelstr. 12, MNeumarkt,
tel. 221 27 25 19 20. This very hip restaurant is in the middle
Indian of a shop, in a sense. There is a glass roof over the brasserie
which makes it very sunny inside. The food is a little pricey but
Bombay Palace B-3, Am Weidenbach 21, MPoststr, the service is professional and refined. A good place to recover
tel. 221 32 43 43. You can smell the powerful aromas that from the strain of visiting the shops along Mittelstrasse. Q
waft from the kitchen hundreds of metres away, and they’re Open 10:00-23:00, Mon 10:00-20:00. Closed Sun. ABP
guaranteed to make you hungry. A great place for vegetar-
ians, and even a committed carnivore would love the Bombay
Potatoes. One of the best Indian restaurants in Cologne. Q Italian
Open 12:00-14:30, 18:00-23:00. AP Etrusca A-3, Zülpicher Str. 27, MZülpicherplatz, tel.
221 240 39 00, www.ristorante-etrusca.de. An elegant
Jaipur B-2, Marzellenstr. 50-56, MHauptbahnhof, tel. restaurant with a very Tuscan style, Etrusca offers an intimate
13 73 22, www.jaipur-indisches.com. Deliciously silly atmosphere. There is a very extensive wine selection, and a
décor including a stuffed tiger and lots of photographs of rolling menu which inspires a creativity from the kitchen. The
snake charmers in Cologne’s highly regarded Indian restau- perfect place to consolidate a new relationship, or to reignite
rant. Specialising in north Indian cuisine, this award-winning a stale one. Q Open 11:30-15:00, 17:30-23:30. AP
establishment offers a good menu of food including several
vegetarian dishes, and like all the best restaurants closes in Luciano B-2, Marzellenstr. 68-70, MAppelhofplatz, tel.
the middle of the day. Pricey but most certainly worth it. Q 13 54 53. A fine restaurant is the perfect balance of food,
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:30. A décor and service, and if it wasn’t for a particularly childish
member of staff who clearly learnt his craft from the sobbing
International schoolboy school of Italian football, Luciano would rate as one
of the finest restaurants in the city. What exactly is it with
Engelbät A-3, Engelbertstr. 7, MZülpicherplatz, tel. the Italians? Maybe you’ll have better luck. Q Open 12:00
221 24 69 14. A restaurant specialising in crepes, and doing - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. A
a very good job of it. With a mouth-watering menu in a friendly
atmosphere, Engelbät is a relaxing place to re-energise after Neideck A-2, Friesenwall 33, MFriesenplatz, tel.
touring the varied clothing stores in this student area. Large 221 272 43 06, www.restaurant-neideck.de. Serving
portions, good value and seriously lecker (good). QOpen delicate north Italian food, Neideck is a favourite amongst
11:00 - 01:00. €4-8. AB the locals. The seating is a little cramped but still retains
an elegance that suits the quality of the food. They have
a gnocchi dish served with lamb strips and olives that will
www.inyourpocket.com have you coming back all week. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. ABP

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


2 restaurants restaurants 2

Sansone B-2, Komödienstr. 60, MAppelhofplatz, tel. El Gaucho A-3, Barbarossaplatz 4a, MBarbarossaplatz, tel.
12 44 44, www.ristorante-sansone.de. In business since 221 24 67 97. Located under the Ambassador Hotel, El Gaucho Decoding the menu
1969, everything from the knarled door handle to the im- is your typical Argentinean restaurant with battered pots and pans For more go to:
maculate waiters is top notch here. Serving a wide selection on the walls. The food is strong, and you can expect lots and lots of Fleisch Meat
of Italian dishes with a nouvelle cuisine slant, the food is good meat. Fill that hole in your stomach with their 480gram steak. Q www.inyourpocket.com Auflauf casserole
Braten roast
but a little expensive. Booking a table at the weekend is highly Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-23:30. Closed Mon, Sat. A Bratwurst sausage
recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AB Brust breast
Maggiano’s C-2, Am Hof 20-26, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 925 Grill Room B-2, Komödienstr. 54, MAppelhofplatz, tel. Eintopf stew
Vesuvio A-3, Aachener Str. 9, MRudolphplatz, tel. 221 34 34. Mediocre food that can’t make up its mind whether its Italian 139 16 20, www.steakhouse-the-grillroom.com. A small, Eisbein knuckle of pork
25 14 97. This old-fashioned Italian restaurant will satisfy or Mexican, Aztec murals, reasonable prices for the location and the classy steak restaurant with lots of Tiffany lamps, allegedly Ente duck
all your desires if you have a hankering for pasta. A perfect occasional grumpy waitress blend together to create a disappointing serving the best Argentinean beef in the city cooked on an Gans goose
Hackbraten meatloaf
evening here starts with the bruschetta and a bottle of Chianti restaurant that knows neither how to make decent burritos nor how open charcoal grill. Frequented by business professionals and Haxe knuckle
and ends with their pistachio ice cream. Q Open 12:00- to treat the people who pay their wages. Avoid unless you really do the Cologne A-list, it’s pricey but worth it. Also a great selec- Hühnchen chicken
15:00, 18:30-23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 18:00-23:30. AP need a Mexican pizza. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AB tion of South American and other wines to compliment the Kalb calf
meat. Vegetarians look elsewhere. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, Kaninchen young rabbit
Kohlrouladen cabbage-stuffed beef
Showbiz Spanish 18:00 - 22:30. A
Küken puisson
Lamm lamb
Filmdose & Theater in der Filmdose A-3, Zülpicher Delix C-3, Friesenstr. 72-74, MFriesenplatz, tel. 221 126 02
Str. 39, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221 23 96 43. For entertain- 00. Delix is both a restaurant and wine store, which works well for Thai Leberkäse
Pute
meatloaf
turkey
ing shows in both German and English, Filmdose is worth check- the diner because there is a huge selection of Spanish wines on the Mai Thai C-2, Heumarkt 71, MHeumarkt, tel. 25 63 Reh deer
ing out. There are comedy acts, musical acts, drag shows and menu. There is a subtle Spanish flair to the menu as well, with lots of 14. Taking full advantage of its prime tourist location, Mai Rind beef
theatre productions in the later evenings on some nights. The fish. The seating is a little unimaginative, but it is good for large groups. Thai is a strange mix of ostentatious décor and staff who Rippchen loin ribs
portions are large and very tasty, and are complimented by the Q Open 12:00-01:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 10:00-23:00. AP were seemingly trained in the Soviet Union. If you’ve always Rouladen thinly sliced beef
friendly atmosphere that sweats from the pores of this place. fancied eating things with names like Ghai Phad Pag and Tod Schenkel, Schlegel, Keule leg
Schnitzel veal, pork cutlet
Q Open 09:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. AE
Steak Mun Gung and staring at kitsch paintings of traditional Thai
villages whilst waitresses stare at you like you just passed
Schwein
Steak
pork
steak
Chicago Steakhouse C-2, Am Hof 20, tel. 257 92 06. wind, then look no further. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. A
South American A good old-fashioned German family restaurant with comfy
Weißwurst
Wild
veal sausage
venison
Banderas C-2, Am Hof 26, MDom/Hauptbahnhof, tel. 221 Wildschwein wild boar
257 92 06. This Mexican restaurant is part of the franchise that
leather seating, a refreshing lack of panache, and superb
steaks. Featuring televisions scattered everywhere showing a Turkish
Fisch Fish
owns the adjacent Chicago steakhouse, and the set-up is pretty multitude of sporting events, vegetarians will be happy to hear Bosporus B-1, Weidengasse 36, MHansaring, tel. 221 Forelle trout
similar, but with fantastic Mexican style food. Their Argentinean there’s a good salad bar and some fine garlic bread. Those 12 52 65, www.bosporus.de. With the reputation as being Hering herring
steaks are worth trying, as are their enchiladas. Enjoy the messy with children in tow will also be more than delighted to know the best Turkish restaurant in Cologne, Bosporus has won all Kabeljau codfish
eating and be sure to grab some extra serviettes on the way to that free crayons and paper are whisked to your table without the available awards. One bite of their lamb-steak with walnut Lachs salmon
the table, you may need them. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AP you even having to ask. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AT sauce and you will be converted too. The restaurant has been Scholle plaice
going for 25 years and in that time has developed a strong
following, so it is wise to book. Q ABP Beilagen Side dishes

Beer or Culture?
Auberginen aubergines
Blumenkohl, Karfiol cauliflower
Vegetarian Bohnen
Bratkartoffeln
beans
roast potatoes
Babylon A-3, Hohenstaufenring 14, MZülpicherplatz, Brokkoli broccoli
tel. 221 233 93 33. This vegetarian restaurant is in a central Brötchen bread roll
location and offers a wide variety of dishes. The ambience is Erbsen peas
Gurke cucumber
a little tired though, and the décor is nothing much - almost Karotten, Möhren carrots
like a caféteria. There is no smoking during the day, so head Kartoffeln, Erdäpfel potatoes
here for clean lungs and guilt-free food. Q AG Knödel dumplings
Knoblauch garlic
Govindam A-3, Roonstr. 3, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221 Nudeln pasta
492 89 16, www.govindam.net. Usually a vegetarian has Paprika pepper
about two choices on an average menu. At Govindam your Pfannkuchen pancakes
Petersilie parsley
problem is that there is too much to choose from, and it’s Pfeffer pepper
all fantastic. While the seating and styling are very plain and Pilze mushrooms
functional, the food more than makes up for it. The mango Pommes Frites french fries, potato chips
lassi is divine. Q Open 12:00-22:00. Closed Sun. A Salz salt
Sauerkraut sauerkraut
Senf mustard
Spargel asparagus
Kölsch food Spätzle egg noodles
Speck bacon
In Prague, you don’t have to choose. We have it all.
   $   ! 



We don’t know whether Kölsch beer was created to Spinat spinach
compliment Kölsch cuisine, or whether it was the other Zucker sugar
And we have it all in Prague In Your Pocket.
 "

way around, but there is no better marriage between food Zwiebeln onion
and beer. There are a few dishes that are customary,
Keep it where it belongs. such as Haemmche, boiled pig knuckle, Rievkochen,
Desserts
Apfelstrudel
Desserts
apple pie
potato fritters with apple sauce and Kölsch black pud- Berliner/ Krapfen/ Kreppel doughnut
  ding, which is nicknamed Kölsch caviar. Halve Hahn Bethmännchen almond paste cookies
Bienenstich cake
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sounds like half a chicken, but is instead a roll of bread


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Lebkuchen/Printen ginger bread


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PIYP s.r.o., V Jámě 1, 110 00, Praha 1 with Dutch cheese, onions and mustard. The tastes are
 
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Mousse mousse
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strong and the portions are large, so wear the pants


www.inyourpocket.com

tel. (+420) 224 947 601, prague@inyourpocket.com Rote Grütze red fruit jelly
with the elastic waist.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


28 nightliFe nightliFe 29

Harry’s New York Bar C-3, Pipinstr. 1, MHeumarkt, tel.


Bars 28 06 12 10. Inviting rows of backlit bottles, 60s-style yellow www.inyourpocket.com
Alter Watersaal C-2, Johannistr. 11, MHauptbahnhof,
tel. 912 88 50, www.wartesaal.de. Located underneath
the Hauptbahnhof inside the old first- and second-class wait-
seating, cute red lamps and a grand piano help bring a modicum
of sophistication to the Hotel Intercontinental’s in-house cocktail
joint. Harry’s to those in the know is a global cocktail phenom-
BELFAST
ing rooms, this is a deliciously ornate and classy affair with enon with history, and if you can afford to drink here and are lucky
lots of wood panelling, original Art Deco lamps and free copies enough to miss the cabaret, this is quite a splendid little spot.
of the German edition of the FT. Half posh restaurant, half QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 03:00.
relaxed bar, there’s something quite magical about this place,
despite it being somewhat snobby and the fact that a glass Hemingway A-2, Friesenstr. 43, MFriesenplatz, tel.
of mineral water will set you back €4. A good spot for a drink 221 257 11 21, www.hemingway-cologne.de. This
before nipping next door to their equally enjoyable club. Check large and stylish tropical cocktail bar is a good place to sip
the website for more details. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. White Russians and contemplate the days past. There is a
large area downstairs, and they play some good music on
Bastard Café & Bar A-2, Friesenwall 29, MFriesen- occasion. There are many cocktail bars lining the street,
platz, tel. 221 420 77 77, www.bastard-bar.de. This so if the vibe is a little slothful here you can walk next door
little gem sprawls out into the courtyard of a quiet building. in search of greener pastures. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Sat
There is a nice terrace upstairs; the perfect place to taste 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
their Long Island Ice Tea which is pretty subtle. They also
serve light food, so you can keep up your vitamin intake. Ice Bar B-2, Marzellenstr. 13-17, MAppelhofplatz, tel.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, 13 07 10. The idea is a simple one. Take a workaday hotel
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. bar and give it a gimmick, this one coming in the guise of a
frozen bar top. Fun and frivolous, the drink of the day is vodka,
Biermuseum C-2, Buttermarkt 39, MHeumarkt, tel. of which they stock somewhere in the region of 120 different
257 78 02. Featuring dancing barmaids and over 50 beers, types from all over the world. And judging by the pricelist you’d
if all museums had this attitude it would certainly be worth do well to drink lots of it as the bill can hurt like hell. QOpen
looking into becoming an academic. Extremely loud and 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00.

Dreams can come true


packed most evenings, find two floors of tipsy over-30s
Germans misbehaving impeccably in something not unlike a Pacific Bar A-3, Kyffhaeuserstr. 17, MBarbarossaplatz,
British pub. Be sure to put this one on your Cologne pub-crawl tel. 221 923 11 60, www.pacificbar.de. The Pacific Bar
list. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. suits a refined palate, but it would take serious conviction
to attempt to sample each of their 140 varieties of whiskey. Football mural, East Belfast.
Blauer Engel A-2, Friesenwall 82, MFriesenplatz, tel. If whiskey is not your thing then you should be able to find
221 280 64 33, www.blauer-engel-koeln.de. There is a something on the cocktail menu that satisfies; they serve
mildly intimidating atmosphere in the front of this place, with 265 different types. The staff are all clothed in spiffy vests.
all eyes trained on you as you enter, but the people are quite QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Rick’s Café Casablanca B-2, Glockengasse 64-66, Ubierschänke C-4, Ubierring 25, MUbierring. Always full
friendly inside. If you want to put theperfect finishing touch MNeumarkt, tel. 280 66 16. The strenuous efforts made to with partying people, flashy lights, pointless furnishings and
on a rampageous night out then hit the “Pleasure & Pain” Papa Joe’s Biersalon C-2, Alter Markt 50-52, MHeu- associate the decoration inside what is essentially a hotel bar with traces of Koelsch charm. The clientele are mostly thirty and
tattoo parlour next door and pick out a design. QOpen markt, tel. 258 21 32, www.papajoes.de. Reminiscent of the Bogart classic failed miserably, but Casablanca is a bit of a over, and this bar has an old style attraction to it.
20:00 - 05:00, Sun 20:00 - 03:00. a 19th-century London gin house, Papa Joe’s is one of the hit all the same. Regular nightly entertainment includes Country
loveliest and liveliest bars in the city. Despite its propensity to & Western, piano recitals and just plain dancing. DJs invade on Underground Vogelsanger Str. 200, MK-Ehrenfeld, tel.
Café Waschsalon A-2, Ehrenstr. 77, MRudolphplatz, hang anything old and funny on the walls, this is far from being Saturday nights, and if it’s not working for you here there are plenty 221 54 35 87, www.underground-cologne.de. Notoriously
tel. 221 13 33 78. This has one of the more bizarre motifs a clinical tourist trap. Hard to differentiate between the staff of other good spots in the area. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. hard to please, Britpop fans can find satisfaction here. Apart
in town, and has found good business in it. It was once a and the clients, there’s always plenty of ridiculous accordion from the pub itself there is a nice beer garden, so if the music
laundromat, and most of the washing machines have been music to keep the beer flowing, or, if you’re lucky, you may walk Sir Peter Ustinov’s Bar International C-2, Domkloster gets too loud for you there is always a place to retreat. The
used as decoration. It is one of the trendiest places to be into one of their live ballroom evenings or a bawdy recital of 2a, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 202 43 75, www.ustinovs.de. musical themes change each night, and there are often par-
found hanging out, and can get busy on weekends. QOpen erotic poetry. Highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Literally in the shadow of the Dom and tucked inside the Dom ties of various motifs each week.
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. Hotel in which Mr Ustinov used to stay, SPUBI is a small cocktail

Cubana Bar A-3, Luxemburger Str. 1, MBarbarossa- Piano Bar Maritim C-3, Heumarkt 20, MHeumarkt,
bar with big prices (made more bearable if you work your way
along the bar, eating the free snacks as you go), serving sours Pubs
platz. Serving up cocktails and Che Guevara pictures, the tel. 202 78 69. A fabulously over the top, retro-looking hotel and non-alcoholic cocktails to a mix of locals and hotel guests Corkonian C-2, Alter Markt 51, MHeumarkt, tel. 221
Cubana Bar is for those who either love one or the other. It is bar with lots of mirrors, dapper barmen and a white grand to the dulcet tones of yet another mediocre pianist. Almost 257 69 31, www.the-corkonian-irish-pub.sportkneipe.
easily spotted from the U-Bahn station, and has become a piano, this is a great place to tip back expensive cocktails club-like, the summer months see the whole place empty into de. An Irish pub that offers a genuine atmosphere. Come here
meeting place for nights on the town. In summer there are out- with your tongue firmly in your cheek. Once again the bar bill the square outside, creating one of the finest places to sit and to find Irish beer, Irish patrons and soccer on a big Irish TV. A
side seats; a perfect place to cook up the next revolution. can be justified by filling your pockets with bar nibbles before get smashed in the entire city. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. little pricey, but probably still not as expensive as in Ireland.
you leave. Live music every night except Sundays from 22:30. A good place to meet, as it is in a central location and has
Hammond Bar B-4, Metzer Str. 25, MChlodwigplatz, QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E Stiefel A-3, Zülpicher Str. 18, MZülpicherplatz, tel. a name that is hard to miss. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
tel. 0178 635 57 61, www.hammondbar.de. This bar 221 21 16 36. A bar that always elicits a different emotion 12:00 - 03:00.
brings a little life to an otherwise quiet neighbourhood. This Rheinterrassen D-1, Rheinparkweg 1, MKölnMesse in each person who visits it. Graffiti on the walls, loud rock
means that you will mostly find locals too lazy to travel to a Osthallen, tel. 880 95 31. You can usually judge how preten- music and a young atmosphere; Stiefel sits in a class of its Flanagan’s C-2, Alter Markt 36-42, MHeumarkt, tel.
more central part of town. The bar still has its charm though, tious a bar is by the number of energy drinks on the menu. own. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, and this 221 257 06 74, www.flanagans-cologne.de. Down the
and Thursday night is sixties soul night which of course con- Rheinterrassen has nine. Decorated with lots of modernist place is definitely a trashy treasure that many find residing stairs and into Flanagan’s. While you can find many similarities
tains the funky pulsating of the Hammond organ. QOpen orange furniture and a DJ station straight out of Barbarella, in a perfect niche. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - between the many Irish bars in town, this one has its own
20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. this place takes superficiality to new heights. Drinks include 03:00. Closed Sun. character. With relatively cheap beer, an abundance of ladies
the usual array of stupid-sounding cocktails, they have and gents and loud music it has won many hearts. QOpen
gourmet cigars, and even the view of the Dom across the Theater im Bauturm A-2/3, Aachener Str. 24, MRu- 17:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00.
Cologne phone code: river (the real reason to come here) is ruined by the great dolphplatz, tel. 221 52 42 42. This small and intimate
blue blob of the Musical Dom. Bursting with nouveau riche, theatre has mainly German-language productions, so the best
(+49)(0) 221 a Russian gangster would think twice about drinking here. reason for us foreigners to go here is the very cool bar/café at www.inyourpocket.com
QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. the front which is constantly packed with hipsters.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


30 nightliFe nightliFe 31

Jamesons Friesenstr. 30-40, MFriesenplatz/912 33 23, floors, ser ving a wide variety of obscure beers. The Stadtgarten A-2, Venloer Str. 40, MHans Böckler
www.jamesonpubs.com. There is one thing an Irish bar can’t low ceilings make it feel a bit claustrophobic when full. Platz, tel. 221 952 99 40. This location is a Mecca Adult entertainment
get enough of; wood. If this place ever caught fire they would Q Open 22:30 - 03:00, Tue, Wed 22:00 - 01:00. Closed for jazz enthusiasts, and in any one week you can find at
have to siphon off the Rhein to put it out. There is a lot of room Mon, Sun. least one big name playing here. Located in the Stadt- Dollhouse A-2, Hohenzollernring 92, MFriesen-
inside, and it can get very loud but that is half the point of an garten park, there’s a restaurant, pub and beer garden platz, tel. 139 33 83, www.dollhouse-cologne.de.
Irish bar. They have an unrivalled bottle collection on the walls. Live Music Hall Lichtstr. 30, Ehrenfeld, tel. 221 as well, of which the latter is very popular in the summer This erotic club has that “edge of town” feeling, at the
Karaoke on Sundays at 21:00 – enjoy or avoid. QOpen 12:00 - 95 42 99 10, www.livemusichall.de. You can watch months, and is one of the best places to have a drink in end of Hohenzollernring street. Inside it’s quite civilised,
01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. many good live acts at this concert hall, and there is lot the evenings. Check the website to see which gigs are and the main dance platform almost has a theatre-like
of space to move around to, so there is no need to fear coming through. atmosphere. Friday night is ladies’ night, but they gener-
Schmelztiegel A-4, Luxemburger Str. 34, MBarbarossa- getting constantly elbowed by jostling groovers. Check out ally cater to all tastes. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
platz, tel. 221 24 01 11, www.schmelztiegel.de. There is a
nice London pub atmosphere here, although the disco lights are
the schedule of bands at their website. They book gigs
from a range of different styles, so you can generally find Clubs 21:00 - 05:00.

ironically anachronistic. The façade facing the street is striking, and something of interest. Diamonds A-2, Hohenzollernring 90, MFriesenplatz, Pascha Hornstrasse 2, MK-Ehrenfeld, tel. 221 17
adds to the mood of the pub. The only thing it has going against it is tel. 221 160 86 20, www.club-diamonds.de. If you 90 61 00, www.pascha.de. This claims to the biggest
that sometimes the volume of the music far outweighs the quality Palladium Schanzenstr. 40, tel. 221 967 90, www. want to go back in time and visit the late eighties, then this bordello in Europe, part of a chain that incredibly offers a
of it. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. palladium-koeln.de. This performance venue is bit far out, is the place for you. Huge disco balls, exotic couches and money-back guarantee. There are seven storeys, each
but they regularly have big bands out there, and lots of space wildly coloured lighting; it looks like a movie scene set in a containing up to fifteen rooms. Word has it that Eminem
Shamrock C-4, Alteburger Str. 40, MUbierring, tel. to jump around. coke den. The crowd seems to be divided into the young made a bee-line for Pascha when he was in town. Q
932 84 64, www.shamrockirishpubs.de. This tiny Irish bar and the young at heart. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Open 24hrs.
has become a favourite amongst a handful of local German Prime Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 40, MDasselstr, Closed Sun-Thu.
folk who enjoy the cosy ambience. There is a lonely-looking tel. 221 92 44 60, www.primeclub.de. This is a great
electronic darts board in there that makes you want to play place to catch some good gigs. Friday nights is indie Gebäude 9 E-1, Mülheimer Str. 127-129, MKöln Purple Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 60, MEifelwall.
purely out of sympathy. The music is a subjective matter, and night, and there is no better place to indulge your Britpop Messe, tel. 221 81 46 37, www.gebaeude9.de. From the There is actually quite a good setup here, even though it
will either make you reminisce or remonstrate. desires. There is quite a large dance area, and the beer outside “Building 9” looks like a place where you are going to sometimes is not as busy as other clubs. Their downfall is
is quite cheap (to compete with the Rose Club across the get mugged, but this old warehouse is actually a great club being on the wrong side of the railway line, which seems to
Beer gardens street), although sometimes you can feel old amongst
the teeny-boppers.
to visit. There are often good bands playing there, and the
beer is quite cheap. There are also theatre productions and
form a mental barrier for some clubbers. This is too bad,
because the Purple Club has a good atmosphere, a little
Biergarten Volksgarten B-4, Volksgartenstr. 27, MEifel- film exhibitions on occasion, so it is always worth checking more relaxed and less preppy. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri,
platz, tel. 221 38 26 26. As far as beer gardens go this is one
of the more scenic, sitting in the small lake (or big pond?) in the Jazz clubs out the schedule. Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

middle of the Volksgarten park. The park itself is not too well lit Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal C-2, Buttermarkt 37, MHeu- Haifisch Club C-4, Im Ferklum 24-26, MChlodwigplatz, Rose Club A-4, Luxemburger Str. 37, MEifelwall, tel.
after dark, so late-leavers can often be found stumbling into trees markt, tel. 257 79 31, www.papajoes.de. Find the tel. 0176 22 89 30 90. When you get sick of drinking bland 240 82 66. On Wednesday nights the Rose Club gives you
and wandering into the lake. A perfect place to sit back and enjoy barmaid behind the dangling business cards and foreign drinks, pay a visit to the ‘Shark’ cocktail bar. Set in a cellar, the what you need: funk. If you want to throw your back out
the setting sun while enjoying a few quiet beers. money, locate a place to sit on one of the strange benches atmosphere is laid back and friendly. The star of the show is dancing all night then this is the place to be. There are also
facing away from the stage, and away you go. A living legend, of course the cocktails so be sure to make an effort to order indie and alternative nights, so just drop by and see what
Live music Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal has live jazz every night from traditional
to slightly more modern jazz, and is packed regularly with a
something interesting. is happening. The crowd can seem a little young at times.
QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Blue Note A-2, Brüsseler Str. 96, MWestbahnhof, mix of aficionados from ageing jazzheads to the occasional Kauri Club C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 11, MHeumarkt,
tel. 01798 49 04 49. There is generally a lot to enjoy passing punk. Free to get in, the beer is a bit expensive, but tel. 257 79 22. This small club is good for R&B and soul Stardust A-2, Maastrichter Str. 6-8, MFriesenplatz, tel. 280
at the Blue Note. They often have live bands playing, as the trip is always worth the effort. There’s nothing quite like music, and is a favourite amongst Cologne’s African com- 68 03, www.stardust-koeln.de. Stardust has a fun atmosphere
well as resident and guest dj’s. There is a bar on both it. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00. munity. The drinks are quite expensive, like many clubs in the inside and is not the sleaze pit it looks to be from the outside.
Altstadt. The crowd is mostly older than the average club, The professional air about the club attracts many German sport
attracted by the mellow atmosphere. stars to unwind here, Oliver Khan and Mark Heller to name a few.
QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. Admission €10.
Lalic A-3, Rathenauplatz 6, MZülpicherplatz, tel. 221
24 26 75. If most of your clothes are black and you own a lot Tsunami Club C-4, Im Ferkulum 9, MChlodwigplatz, tel.
of leather products then the chances are that this is your kind 801 63 34. This unhappily-named club is relatively small and there
of place. A goth club that looks a little ratty from the outside, can sometimes be a line outside which should not be mistaken
this is just how they like it. The club itself looks a little out of as a reflection of the popularity of the place, but rather the limited
place amongst the sedate residential buildings and the park capacity. Inside, it’s often hot and cramped, with pricey drinks.
next door. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00, Sun
20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
Gay
Nachtflug A-2, Hohenzollernring 89-93, MFriesenplatz, Gloria A-2, Apostelnstr. 11, MNeumarkt, tel. 660 63
tel. 510 22 29, www.nachtflug.com. Even though this 13, www.gloria-theater.com. Gloria has many faces, and
night club has many things going for it, sometimes it feels a each visit is different. The themes of each night are constantly
little sedate. It has a very spacious dance area and comfy changing, and they often have some big acts passing through
couches, but whether it is worth queuing up outside for up to their doors. Some nights require tickets and others are free,
an hour is debatable. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. depending on the schedule. Gloria attracts a mixed crowd,
and is very popular in the gay and lesbian scene.
Pier 11 C-2, Auf dem Rothenberg 11, MHeumarkt,
tel. 01762 432 92 40. Ignore the small bar as you enter Timp C-3, Heumarkt 25, MHeumarkt, tel. 258 14 09,
and dive down the stairs into a dark cavern of delight. www.timp.de. Timp is a hotel bar full of beguiling and decid-
Decorated with models of sailing ships and complete with edly odd characters, and is a recommended location for visiting
a pole for exotic dancing, a buxom barmaid churns out gays, as gays are what you’ll find in droves here. The real treat
booze to the sounds of 70s and 80s music. A big hit with though comes when the legendary transvestite cabaret begins
the locals, and a great place to dance yourself silly, safely at around 01:00. It’s cheap and colourful and fun, and has been
hidden away from the tourists bumbling about in the tiny going since many of the wrinkly old types propping up the bar
alleyways upstairs. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, were still at school. They’ve got a hotel too, so the possibilities
Sco Tue, Thu, Sun. here are endless. QOpen 20:30 - 05:00.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


32 What to see What to see 33

Rathaus C-2, Rathausplatz, MHeumarkt, tel. 22 10.


Tourist information Germany’s oldest Rathaus (town hall) was first mentioned some
time between 1135 and 1152. The current building dates from
Cologne Tourist Board B-2, Unter Fettenhennen the 14th century, with additions made over the centuries. The
19, tel. 304 00, fax 304 10, info@koelntourismus.de, original 61m Gothic tower dates from 1414 and the impressive
www.koelntourismus.de. Opposite the main doors of loggia, the main entrance, was added in 1573. WWII saw most
the cathedral, the excellent tourist office hands out maps, of the building destroyed with only the loggia surviving. Rebuilding
advice and books hotel rooms, tours and city walks. Also began at the end of the war, and slowly the Rathaus was restored
at Cologne-Bonn Airport. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, to its former glory, a task that took until 1995 to complete. The
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. oldest preserved part of the building is the Hansesaal, which
dates from around 1330. The Hansesaal gets its name from
a gathering in the room in 1367 by members of the Hanseatic
Philharmonie C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHauptbahn- League who decided to wage war against King Waldemar of
hof, tel. 20 40 80, www.koelnmusik.de. On September 14, Denmark. The tracery and decorative figures on the north and
1986 the Gürzenich Orchestra Cologne gave a performance south face of the wooden vaulted hall are one of the impressive
of Mahler’s 8th Symphony at the grand opening of this im- achievements of the secular late Gothic period. Guided tours are
pressive hall. Twenty years on and the Philharmonie, which is available and should be arranged in advance.
home to both the Gürzenich Orchestra Cologne and the WDR
Symphony Orchestra Cologne continues to give almost daily Westdeutscher Rundfunk B-2, Appellhofplatz 1, MAp-
performances of everything from baroque to chamber to jazz pellhofplatz, tel. 22 00. Originally a hotel, the headquarters of
to serialism. Designed to mimic an ancient amphitheatre the Germany’s most popular television station is well worth a men-
Philharmonie also houses a huge organ, but what you won’t tion. The former lobby still includes an extremely rare paternoster
find in their official marketing material is the fabulous blunder (look it up) and much of the interior features original art including
made during construction. The Philharmonie’s roof is built into some wonderful stained glass and Cubist art. There are two
the surrounding area and accordingly the public can walk on it. working music and drama theatres too, both of which are open
The trouble is, when people walk on it their footsteps can be to the public. Guided tours in English are also available.
heard inside the auditorium. Thus during every performance
a small group of Philharmonie employees have to hang around
the roof area stopping people from crossing it. The city, who Museums
own the building, originally planned to cover the roof with a Chocolate Museum (Imhoff-Stollwerck Museum)
The real Eau de Cologne Sco soundproofing material but have been reluctant to part with C-3, Rheinauhafen 1a, MHeumarkt, tel. 22 19 31 88 80,
www.schokoladenmuseum.de. Although Willy Wonka’s
Places of interest their money, and so the rather surreal-looking spectacle of
men chasing quite-often oblivious people around what looks fat unfortunate friend Augustus Gloop was from nearby Düs-
4711-Haus B-2, Glockengasse 4711, MNeumarkt, to be an ordinary courtyard continues. seldorf, chocolate lovers will find their favourite chocolate
tel. 925 04 50, www.4711.com. On 8 October 1792 museum (or mmmuseum as they call it) here in Cologne’s
the young merchant Wilhelm Mülhens married his sweet- Rheinhafen. Learn about 300 years of chocolate culture and
heart. As a wedding present a Carthusian monk gave production, drink from the chocolate fountain and watch the
the couple a simple gift in the form of a recipe for the oompaloompas go about their business. QOpen 10:00 -
production of a miracle water, the perfume we now know 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
as Eau de Cologne. Mülhens built a factory for producing
the perfume, which is believed to have magical healing City Museum (Stadtmuseum) B-2, Zeughausstr.
qualities and that was originally swallowed as well as 1-3, MAppellhofplatz, tel. 22 12 57 89. You can satisfy
applied externally, on Cologne’s Glockengasse. In 1796 all your questions about Cologne here, and find some inter-
during the French occupation of Cologne the city com- esting titbits of local lore. There are relics from the Middle
mander General Daurier ordered that all addresses in Ages, photographs from WWII and an exhibit on the damage
the city were to be changed. Mülhens’ factory got the the city sustained during the war. There is not too much
number 4711, and thanks to some clever early market- post-war information, however. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Tue
ing his perfume became a world leader. The building now 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4.70.
houses a 4711 shop and museum. High up on the wall
overlooking the opera is an elaborate clock with models EL-DE Haus Appellhofplatz 23-25, tel. 22 12 63 31, www.
of French soldiers and horses that plays the Marseillaise nsdok.de. The city’s former Gestapo HQ has been transformed
on the hour from 09:00 to 19:00. For more extensive into a museum tracing the roots and progress of National So-
information about Cologne’s most famous product, have cialism in Cologne from the foundation of the National Socialist
a look at the 4711 website. Q Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat German Workers Party in 1921 through to the liberation of the
09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. city by US troops on March 6, 1945. The former cells in the
basement now form the main part of the exhibition, with the rest
Bayenturm C-4, Rheinauhalbinsel, MUbierring. This of the building given over to archives and research. One of the
is an old part of the town’s fortifications located along the best-preserved prisons of its kind in the country, a visit here is
Rhein with a beautiful view of the river. There is a lot of real a necessary part of any itinerary to the city. QOpen 10:00 -
estate development along this street, and the old fort now 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
looks very much out of place. While you get a sense of how
the tower used to look, the refurbishment of it seems to Farina Haus (Fragrance Museum) C-2, Obenm-
have taken the soul out of it. Today it is used to house the arspforten 21, MHeumarkt, tel. 399 89 94, www.
Feminist Museum. farina1709.com. This is the birthplace of Eau de Cologne
(literally: Cologne water), an important part of the history of
Opera B-2, Offenbachplatz, MNeumarkt, tel. 22 12 84 the city. The museum focuses on the history of the Farina
00. Wilhelm Riphahn’s 1957 lump of a modernist building is family, and is quite interesting. It’s very popular and can get
highly acclaimed both inside and out. The 1,300-seat audi- a little crowded but the audio guide keeps you entertained
torium puts on a good programme of classical and modern with nuggets of information. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
opera as well as dance from all over the world. No access to the Philharmony roof Sco 11:00 - 16:00.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


34 What to see What to see 35

Schnütgen Museum B-3, Caecilien Str. 29, MNeumarkt, St. Pantaleon B-3, Am Pantaleonsberg 6, MPoststr. Lindenthaler Tierpark Lindenthal, MDürenerstr.,
tel. 22 12 23 10, www.museenkoeln.de. This museum is Originally built as an abbey in 957 in commemoration of the www.lindenthaler-tierpark.de. This is a little animal park
housed inside an old church, and is a treasure-house of sculp- Greek martyr Pantaleon, this church is very impressive in built in the grounds of the Lindenthaler park. The animals are
tures, artefacts and relics from medieval times. The collection many different ways. Hidden amongst apartment blocks, it mostly goats and deer, but the kids can feed them and it is a
was donated to the city of Cologne in 1906 by Domherr Alexan- is easy to pass by without noticing it. The church was dam- nice quiet area to relax in. There is no entrance fee, and no
der Schnütgen, and 2006 is their century anniversary. QOpen aged in WWII, and has been refurbished since. The interior staff really either. Just you and the goats.
10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. is very modest, and the stark walls coupled with the ever-
present smell of incense gives it an atmosphere of solemn Rheinpark D-1,. This park has one of the best views
Sport & Olympia Museum Rheinauhafen 1, MHeu- contemplation. in Cologne, and has lots of space for lazing on the grass.
markt, tel. 33 60 90, www.sportmuseum.info. This museum Lying on the Deutz side of the Rhein, it is a great place for
is a sports fan’s dream: signed balls, bats, boots and boats; this St. Severin C-4, Severinskirchplatz, MChlodwigplatz. children, and there is a mini-train making slow trips around
place is wall to wall sports memorabilia. There is a large section Built on an old Roman graveyard, Saint Severin’s is the oldest the park each fifteen minutes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
on football, and there are sometimes talks given by famous church in Cologne. In around 400AD there existed a small 10:00 - 19:00.
sporting stars, so if you are lucky you can get your picture taken church on the site, and in the 10th century work begain on
with Steffi Graf or Oliver Khan. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun what is today St Severins. There are excavations underneath Rhine Cable Car (Kölner Seilbahn) D-1, Rheiler Str.
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5/2.50. the church, and it is sometimes possible to go on guided tours 180, MZoo/Flors, tel. 221 547 33 33. One of the best
of the Romanesque crypts that remain in good condition views of Cologne has to be from the cable car that crosses
Wallraf-Richartz Museum C-2, Martinstr. 39, MHeu- below the structure. the Rhein from RheinPark to Riehl. If you like planning your day,
markt, tel. 211 19, www.museenkoeln/wrm. Three floors you can start off by wandering through the Rheinpark, catch
of great art from the 13th century through to the Impression-
ists, including works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Manet and Munch. Statues the cable car across the river, spend a lazy day at the zoo and
finish it off with watching the sunset at the botanical gardens.
As well as showcasing the medieval paintings of local artists Reiterdenkmal C-2, Heumarkt 25, MHeumarkt. Gustav QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Return tickets €5.50/3.
the museum traces the history of panel painting in the city from Blaeser’s 1876 statue built to honour King Friedrich Wilhelm
1300 to 1550. The well designed building dates from 2001 and III enraged the court circles of the time as a mounted statue Skulpturenpark Koeln Riehlerstr., MZoo/Flora, tel.
is situated in the area where the painters and artists of Cologne was deemed inappropriate and simply not kingly enough. 860 77 31. Next to the zoo and the botanical gardens lies a
congregated during the Middle Ages. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Still, unveiled it was and there it stayed until it was blown to tranquil park that is devoted to different sculptures by artists
Tue 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. pieces during WWII. The current beast is a copy, created by from all over the world. There are some that are mysterious,
Raimund Kittl using fragments of the original. some that are quite beautiful and some that are downright
Churches annoying. Entrance is free, but the park itself is not over-
whelmingly large. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00.
Sco Dom (Cathedral) C-2, Am Dom, MDom/Hauptbahnhof. Parks & Gardens
The people of Cologne take great pride in the Dom, and there Flora & Botanical Gardens Amsterdamer Str. 34, Stadtgarten Venloer Str. 40, MBahnhof West. The
Museum Ludwig C-2, Bischofsgartenstr. 1, MHaupt- is no doubt that it forms a part of their psyche. Work on the MZoo/Flora, tel. 76 43 35. Serene, stately, well-designed Stadtgarten is well known for the jazz concerts that are
bahnhof, tel. 22 12 61 65, www.museum-ludwig.de. great Gothic cathedral first started in 1248, and it was not and well cared for, this is one of the best botanical gardens regularly held here, but the park itself is a nice place to relax.
Devoted to modern art from the beginning of the 20th century fully completed until 1880. The relics of the Three Kings, or in the region. There are separate areas for varying species It is just inside the ring that is formed by the railway. Just
onwards, the vast and airy Ludwig Museum is most famous for Magi, are on display in the cathedral, as are the cathedral’s of plant and tree, and each area is a microcosm of flora. En- over the tracks there is another ring of parkland that forms
its Pop Art collection, the largest outside the United States. art and treasure collection. It’s possible to climb the lofty trance to the gardens is free, though there is a small entrance a semi-circle around the inner city, and it’s not uncommon to
Other treats include early 20th-century Russian and Soviet spires of the Cathedral (€4/2), one of which stands at 157 fee for the greenhouses (€2-4). see families of wild rabbits frolicking in the grass.
art and a few pieces by Picasso. The museum also puts of meters in height. There are guided tours in English twice daily
temporary exhibitions from the great and the good including (once Sunday) at 10:30 and 14:30. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30.
at the time of writing a superb Dali retrospective. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Gross St Martin Kirche C-2, An Gross St Martin,
MHeumarkt. When looking at the skyline of Cologne you
Pratorium C-2, Kleine Budengasse, MHeumarkt, tel. can’t help but notice the four spires of this church, yet it
223 94. This half hidden museum often gets overlookedand remains one of the least visited. The massive Romanesque
that’s a shame, because it houses some of the more striking church was consecrated in 1172, and was partially destroyed
and best-preserved remnants of Cologne’s Roman period. in WWII, but reconstructed in 1963. The interior is very sparse
Tour the underground archaeological excavations that have and plain, and the bare walls look ominous.
exposed the structures of the Roman governor’s offices, a
fascinating trip back through time. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. St Aposteln A-2/3, Apostelnkloster 10, MNeumarkt.
Closed Mon. Consecrated in honour of the Apostles, this church was badly
damaged in WWII. It has obviously since been refurbished, and
Rautenstrauch-Jöst Museum C-4, Ubierring 45, MU- today offers a peaceful sanctuary. There is a huge modern
bierring, tel. 221 336 94 13, www.rjm.museenkoeln.de. pipe organ at the back, that must really have some volume
Sedate and sparse, this museum is for enthusiasts of Asiatic at full blast. Another feature of the church is the suspended
religion and traditional art and crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, sculpture that hangs down over the altar area.
Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
St. Gereon B-2, Gereonshof 4, MChristophstr./Me-
Römisch-Germanisches Museum C-2, Roncalliplatz diaPark. The interior of this large Romanesque church is a
4, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 22 12 23 04. Originally part of little intimidating, but the stonework is really quite impres-
the Roman and Germanic department of the Wallraf-Richartz sive, and the church has some original 11th century mosaics
Museum, this intriguing museum was built in 1974 on the walls in the crypt that survived the Second World War. Concerts
of a Roman villa unearthed during WWII. Dedicated to life in of classical pieces are held each week, worh visiting for the
the area under Roman occupation, among the usual pots, good acoustics.
weapons, statues and other archaeological detritus of note
is the extraordinary Dionysus mosaic and some wonderful ex-
amples of ancient, crude Roman glassware. One of Germany’s
most popular museums, the curators have been considerate www.inyourpocket.com
enough to label everything in English and French as well as
German. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


36 What to see daytrips 37

River cruises As if Cologne didn’t have enough to offer, there are myriad
possibilities for easy daytrips into the surrounding river
consulates and international offices remain there today. The
city is about a third the size of Cologne in terms of population.
KD River Cruises C-2, Frankenwerft 35, MHeumarkt, landscape, forest or neighbouring cities and towns. Bonn University is one of the most famous in Germany, and
tel. 208 83 18, www.k-d.com. Ferrying people up and down the town itself has an old charm to it that is mixed with a
the Rhine for 180 years, and with a client list that includes
the current Pope, KD offer a fantastic way of getting to know Schloss Brühl youthful enthusiasm. Ludwig van Beethoven was originally
from Bonn, and his birthplace is now a museum (Bonngasse
the region by water. Short and long trips are available as well About twenty kilometres outside Cologne sits Schloss Brühl. 20, admission €4). The city centre has many unique stores,
as private hire for groups and parties. Built in 1725, this Rococo and Baroque mansion was given and provides an interesting day of shopping. There is a
a World Heritage listing by UNESCO in 1984, and is today a market in the town square on Sundays.
Around town magnificently preserved part of the area’s history. Concerts
are regularly given in the evenings on the garden grounds in
The train from Cologne to Bonn costs €7, although there is
also a slower tram that makes the journey in about an hour
Rodenkirchen Riviera Rodenkirchen. With a beautiful the warmer months. One kilometre southeast of the Schloss which saves you one whole euro. One of the most attractive
view of the Rhein this stretch of bank in Rodenkirchen is a is Falkenlust, the old hunting lodge, which forms part of the ways to visit Bonn, however, is to go by bicycle (see p.?? for
casual and unpretentious place. A little outside of the city estate. The lodge itself is open to visitors between 09 and bike rental). There are cycle tracks that follow the Rhein all
centre, Rodenkirchen lies along the bank of the Rhein towards 12, and 13:30 and 16 Tues-Fri, and from 10-17 on weekends. the way to the outskirts of Bonn, and because the track
Bonn. Rodenkirchen means “Rower’s Churches” and was so The Schloss itself is open from Tue-Fri 09-17 and Sat, Sun is next to the river the terrain is mostly flat. The journey is
named for the churches that the rowers frequented. Enjoy a and Holidays 10-18. approximately 30 kilometres and takes anywhere between
refreshment in one of the beer gardens that line the area. Schloss Augustusburg, Schlossstrasse 6, (M) Bruehl, tel. 2 hours to a day, assuming you make all the necessary pit-
223 24 40 00, www.schlossbruehl.de. stops at the beer gardens and cafes along the way.
Schloss Augustusburg Schlossstr. 6, Brühl, MBrühl,
tel. 223 24 40 00, www.schlossbruehl.de. This well-re-
stored 18th century Rococo castle is about ten minutes by Bergisch Gladbach Friedenswald
train from Cologne, and can provide a decent day’s worth of Northeast of Cologne is the small village of Bergisch Due south of Cologne is the stately Friedenswald. This forest is a
things to see and do. As well as tours of the interior of the Gladbach. Set at the base of rolling hills and farmland, there protected area that incorporates the Forestry Botanical Gardens
castle, there are beautiful Baroque-era garden grounds to are many walking trails and bicycle paths that wind through near Rodenkirchen, which contains over 3,000 different types of
wander through, and there is a hunting lodge about a kilo- forests, and from the top of the walking track at Siefen one plant life from all over the world. The area provides the perfect
metre away along a serene walk through the forest. QOpen has a fantastic view over Cologne. In the town there is a spot for picnics and cycling. There are both wide open fields and
09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. cosy atmosphere, and many of the older buildings are well dense tree growth, so if you feel the need to get back to nature
restored and maintained, the most notable of which is the then the Friedenswald will satisfy that itch. To cycle there from
old Rathaus next to the town square. Every Sunday there is central Cologne takes about 25 minutes. It is possible to start
a market where you can still buy home-grown vegetables from the Rhein and continue through the forest into the Aachener
and jam. If the place in itself isn’t already pretty enough, Weiher Guertel, which rings the innenstadt.
Sco Bergisch Gladbach spawned one of Germany’s most famous

Volksgarten A/B-4, Volksgartenstr., MEifelplatz.


supermodels, Heidi Klum. Take the S11 S-Bahn to get there
from central Cologne, departing every twenty minutes on Aachen
A beautiful park filled with parents, children and couples weekdays, every forty minutes of Sundays; journey time Another pleasant day trip is the city of Aachen, only 45
enjoying the sun. Read a book, play frisbee or sleep off the twenty minutes. minutes by train west of Cologne. Aachen stands as one
excesses of the previous night’s debauchery in this serene of Germany’s most overlooked towns; the reality is that
setting. There is a small lake in the centre which is home to
many hungry ducks and geese. Bonn Aachen has many attractions to offer, the main one being the
fantastic and ancient Dom cathedral which is architecturally
The city of Bonn is just a twenty minute train ride from interesting, but also as the burial place of Charlemagne.
Zoo Riehler Str. 173, MZoo/Flora, tel. 778 50, www. Cologne, and there is much to see and do there. After the Aachen has a big university population, and a thriving
zoo-koeln.de. Hang out with the monkeys. With a huge Second World War, Bonn became the temporary capital of nightlife. A return train ticket to Aachen from Cologne will
variety of animals in spacious enclosures the zoo offers a West Germany until Berlin took over again, though many cost about €25.
peaceful day out. A highlight is the elephant exhibit, which now
welcomes the birth of a new baby. The zoo is right next door
to the Botanical Gardens and an U-Bahn station. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Admission €12/6.

Walking & Bike tours


Kölner Fahrradverleih, tel. 0171 629 87 96, bike@
koelnerfahrradverleih.de, www.koelnerfahrradverleih.
de. Great fun three-hour guided bicycle tours of the city that
start at 13:00 for groups of less that six (choose your own
time if there are more) that take in the highlights of the city
from the Dom to a quick jaunt through some green open
spaces. Bicycle rental without a guide is also possible. For
more information on prices and schedules see their excel-
lent website.

Sightseeing tours
Cologne Coach Service Breslauer Platz, tel. 979 25
70, www.ccs-busreisen.de. English and German language
city tours by bus, starting from the tourist information office
opposite the Cathedral doors. Daily departures at 10:00,
12:30, 15:00, Sat also at 17:30. The tour includes a visit to
the Stadtmuseum. Buy tickets from the driver. Q Tickets
€15/4. Sco Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


38 Getting around Getting around 39

Airport Intercity bus transport is a cheap way of getting around Germany


and abroad. Departure times are not as frequent as trains
Köln/Bonn Flughafen (airport) is 17km south of town and however, and the journey may take much longer. Major operators
is serviced by the S13 S-Bahn train, which departs from in Germany include Berlin Linien Bus (www.berlinlinienbus.de),
Köln Hauptbahnhof every twenty minutes, taking about 20 which has a dense national network and some international
minutes and costing €2. Alternatively, hop on the slower bus destinations, and Eurolines (Deutsche Touring, www.deutsche-
170 from the rear of the station. A taxi to the airport costs touring.com), part of the Eurolines international bus network.
around €25 and takes anywhere from 15 to 35 minutes,
depending on traffic, making it better to catch the train. The Eurolines Breslauer Platz, tel. 13 52 52, koeln@tour-
airport is well-organised and efficient. Check-in times at the ing.de, www.eurolines.de. International and long-distance
airport depend on the carrier, but in general it is good practice buses.
to arrive at least an hour before your plane leaves. Note that
food at the airport is very expensive at almost double the
normal going rate, with perhaps only the Burger King outlet Car rental
charging normal prices. Budget travellers who don’t want to Even though Cologne itself is a nightmare for foreign drivers,
spend more on food than on their flight ticket are advised with all the one-way streets, trams, bicycles and pedestrians,
to stock up on food and drinks at a city supermarket. The there are many good road trips outside the city. There are
airport has a small display section filled with curious spy many rental car companies operating from the airport, as
technology - lovers of gadgets should enjoy this strange well in as the city.
little showcase.
Avis Hauptbahnhof, Reisezentrum 2, tel. 221 913 00
Airport, tel. 022 03 40 40 01, information@koeln-bonn- 63, www.avis.de.
airport.de, www.koeln-bonn-airport.de. Note the funky Budget Köln/Bonn Airport, tel. 220 340 23 50, www.
logo design throughout the airport and its website. Guided budget.de.
tours of the airport are available for €5/3 on weekdays at Europcar Hauptbahnhof, tel. 139 27 48, www.europ-
10.00, 11.45, 13.30 and 15.15 (bring ID). car.de.
Hertz Bismarckstr. 19-21, tel. 51 50 84, www.hertz. Sco
de.
Buses all the options in the centre, and the 5-person ticket is a good
deal. Tickets can be bought from machines on the platforms
national websites. It can handle complicated international
connections and lists prices for trips within Germany.
Smart travellers book train tickets online via DB’s
International buses and coaches depart from the rear of the
Hauptbahnhof train station. There you will find the Eurolines Public transport or in tram cars (coins only).
excellent website www.bahn.de. Good reductions of up to
office which serves international cities such as Paris, London
and Amsterdam, plus offices of the domestic carriers.
Cologne’s public transport system is clean and efficient.
There are buses, trams, and U-Bahn (metro) and S-Bahn Taxis 50% are available for a limited amount of return tickets
bought online, especially if you choose a ticket that is valid
(commuter) trains. It is possible to get day tickets that cover Taxis are everywhere in Cologne, and hailing one should for a particular departure. You can pay by credit card and
not be a problem. It costs €1 if you hail a cab, and there’s a print out your ticket at home – that plus your credit card is all
€2 starting fee with €1.25 charged per kilometre. There are you need to take along. The cardholder must be among the
certain areas that have taxis in rank, but mostly they are just travellers though – else, you must opt for having a normal
cruising around. If you hail a cab and intend on using a credit ticket mailed to you, which is free but takes a few days. This
card you should ask them if they can take it first. is also the only way to book international tickets online.

Lilli-Taxi, tel. 38 38 55. Hauptbahnhof. The main train station is Köln Hauptbahn-
Taxi Kur, tel. 220 395 95 70. Group taxis. hof, which is a busy transportation hub for regional, national
Taxi-Köln, tel. 966 16 32, www.taxi-claren-ulhaas. and interational trains. There are good connections to all
de. major German cities. The U-Bahn metro station is underneath
the Hauptbahnhof. The train station itself is a mini shopping
Trains centre, and contains bars, restaurants, post office (open
06:00-22:00, Sun 07:00-22:00), ATMs and a small super-
DB (Deutsche Bahn, German railways) uses a number of market. The station itself is in the centre of town, and lies in
train types on long-distance routes. The supersexy, delux the shadow of the Dom. The tourist infomation office is at the
highspeed ICE trains (InterCity Express; ‘eeh-tsay-ay’) rip front of the station under the windows facing the Dom.
through the countryside at up to 300km/hr on purpose-built
tracks. Every seat has a headphone plug for eight music
stations, and you may get a TV screen too. Table seats have Travel Agents
220V plugs for laptops, and some carriages have amplifiers STA Travel Zülpicher Str. 178, tel. 221 42 12 54.
to enable clear mobile phone conversations. EC (EuroCity) Student-orientated travel agency.
and IC (InterCity) trains are less swank, but still very good, Thomas Cook Köln/Bonn Airport, Terminal 2, tel.
connecting international and German cities respectively. 220 39 54 90.
Seat reservations on InterRegion Express and InterCity V. Beust & Partner Am Hof 30, tel. 221 205 05 10,
trains are optional and cost €3; they are free if you buy your www.von-beust-reisen.de.
ticket from a vending machine or book it online.
All kinds of tickets can be purchased at all train stations.
All major railway stations have counters with semi-English Cycling
speaking staff. Although the station queues are efficiently Most German cities are well-equipped for cycling, with plenty
organised, you may be in for a wait when it’s busy, and of safe bike paths, and patient traffic that is used to sharing
it’s good to know that tickets can also be purchased from the asphalt with bi-wheel transport. In summer, perhaps the
machines placed in the halls that also have instructions in bet way to enjoy yourself is to get a picnic together, rent a
English; pay with cash or credit card. bike and head out into the countryside along well-marked
The DB’s German and European online train timetable at bike paths to enjoy the good times while they last. The tourist
www.bahn.de is so good that it’s often easier to use for information office will have further details on possible routes
Sco planning trips within neighbouring countries than the relevant and destinations, cycle maps and bike rental addresses.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


40 Mail & phones shopping 41

Express mail To call abroad from Germany, dial 00 (the international


access code) followed by the relevant country code, city code Books
DHL , tel. 0180 53 45 22 55, www.dhl.de. Owned and subscriber’s number. To phone Germany from abroad or Ludwig C-2, Hauptbahnhof, tel. 126 01 07, www.lesen-
by Deutsche Post, DHL operates through the post office using roaming on your mobile phone, dial 0049 (Germany’s mit-ludwig.de. This handy little bookstore has quite a lot
branches. code) followed by the city code (dropping the first zero) and of English literature, both modern and classic. Also home
EMS Escherstr. 177, tel. 221 177 90. the subscriber’s number. to a post office.
Federal Express Dieselstr. 6, tel. 0800 123 08 00,
www.fedex.com. Mayersche Bookstore B-2, Hohestr. 68-82, tel. 920 10
TNT Josef Lindenweg 18, tel. 220 39 33 00. 90. This large book store chain has a wide selection. The English
literature section is quite extensive, as is the French section.
Internet cafés
Future Point Richmodstr. 13, tel. 221 206 72 06, info@ Department stores
futurepoint.de. €1.5 per hour. Galeria Kaufhof B-2, Hohestr. 41-53. A huge depart-
Internet Jugendcafe Helmholtzplatz 11, tel. 221 546 ment store in the centre of town. You can find everything
34 61, www.ijc.de. €1 per hour. here; clothes, shoes, food, wine, electrical items and more.
Weidengasse Internet Weidengasse 31, tel. 221 130 QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
10 77. €1 per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Neumarkt Galerie B-2, Neumarkt 2. This is a modest
Mobile phones shopping centre with a few stores and a nice café/restaurant.
It lacks the variety to be too satisfying though. QOpen
Several companies offer nation-wide GSM coverage in 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Germany. Travellers with a mobile phone can choose to
roam using one of the networks, but be aware of relatively Peek & Cloppenberg B-2, Schildergasse. Quite an
high charges for phoning, and even accepting a local or expensive fashion store, with a surprisingly limited range yet
international call. If you’re planning to be in Germany it is one of the biggest in Cologne. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
for a while, consider buying a pre-paid SIM card for one Closed Sun.
of the networks, so that you have a local number with
which you call for local rates and don’t pay for incoming
calls. The amount on the card can be topped up easily by Electronics
purchasing credit at any kiosk, tobacconist, bookshop or Mediamarkt B-2, Hohestr. 121. This huge music and
phone card machine. Make sure that your mobile phone technology store will satisfy every desire you have if it involves
is not blocked for using other SIM cards. All German electricity: mobile phones, CDs, DVDs, computers, hairdryers,
mobile phone companies offer SIM card packages, with batteries etc. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
small differences in rates. Count on paying about €10 for
the SIM card number, with any extra cash going to phone
credit. There’s no need to bring ID. The best places for Fashion
buying SIM cards are the generic phone shops, which will Esprit B-2, Hohestr. 160-168. All is Esprit at this relatively
offer all cards and can advise on which is best for your large store. Keep up to date with fashion and relieve your Madamski A-3, Engelbertstr. 23, tel. 310 9480. A small
calling habits. wallet of the burden of holding your money. store that offers a special attraction for those who seek to
avoid the mass produced labels. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat
The Mediamarkt shop carries phone accessories for all H&M B-2, Hohestr. 113 & 152. A variety of clothes and 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
brands of mobile phones, and provides products for all the accessories for men, women and children, and often pieces of
German mobile service providers. clothing that should never have left the design sketchpad. Süssstoff A-3, Engelbertstr. 12. Sparse, kitschy and
colourful. A little on the expensive side, but unique and
Himbeertörtchen A-3, Engelbertstr. 43, tel. 998 20 interesting in way of compensation. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
Post 37, www.himbeertoertchen.de. Cool accessories, styl- Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Deutsche Post (www.deutschepost.de) offers quick and ish clothes and friendly service. With a delicate selection of
efficient mail services, and also happens to own DHL if you designers, Himbeertörtchen (named after a small raspberry Tausend Fliegende Fische A-3, Roonstr. 16. An eclec-
want to send something larger than a letter. Mailing a postcard Sco cake) holds much to admire. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Mon tic array of styles and colours, ‘1000 flying fish’ has something
within Germany costs €0.45, €0.65 to Europe and €1 to 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. for everybody, be it kitsch or chic. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
other countries. A letter under 20 grams costs €0.55 to mail Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
within Germany, €0.70 within Europe and €1.70 further afield. City codes
Colourful stamps are for sale at the post office, from stamp Velangel und Else A-3, Engelbertstr. 51, tel. 37 14
machines (that have instructions in a dozen languages) or The phone codes for the World Cup host and other cities. 73, www.velangel.de. Colourful, elegant and co-ordinated,
from tobacconists. Note that the euro-denominated stamps The longer the code, the more piddly the town. they sell their own designs as well as those of young local
are only valid for sending mail from Germany. Berlin 030 designers. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Sat
Cologne 0221 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Post office Ludwig bookstore, Hauptbahnhof. The main Dresden 0351
post office is located across the river at Kaltenbornweg 1 Munich 089 Zara B-2, Hohestr. 128-132. This Spanish label offers
- but this small office inside the Hauptbahnhof is much more Dortmund 0231 very stylish quality clothes and accessories for him and
convenient. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. Frankfurt 069 her.
Gelsenkirchen 0209
Phones Hamburg
Hanover
040
0511
House & Home
Phone numbers in Germany are mental, with subscriber Kaiserslautern 0631 Habitat B-2, Neumarkt 12, MNeumarkt, tel. 920
numbers ranging from three to eight digits – so you’re never Leipzig 0341 15 00. Budget designer gadgets and miscellaneous
really sure if you have the complete number. Companies will Nürnberg 0911 household indulgencies from the internationally famous
often have a main number consisting of a set of digits, and Stuttgart 0711 chain. Q Op en 10:00 - 20:00, Sa t 10:00 - 18:00.
add on extra digits for fax numbers, etc. Sco Closed Sun.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


42 shopping direCtory 43

Shoes Shopping practicalities Banks Embassies


Birkenstock & Berkemann B-2, Breite Str. 60-80, tel. American Express Burgmauer 14.
25 25 29. It is wall-to-wall comfortable and strangely stylish German retail laws were incredibly strict in the past, with Kreissparkasse Koeln Neumarkt 18-24. Although some German cities have consulates of certain
shoes here. A nice bright store, with chatty service. shops not even regularly opening on Saturdays a year just Norisbank Apostelnstr. 13. countries, most only have a diplomatic representation in
a decade ago, and still are not as flexible as elsewhere. On PSD Bank Laurenzplatz 2. Berlin. Below are all the details of the Berlin embassies
Schuhhaus Lachmayr B-2, Breite Str. 106, tel. 257 61 Sundays nearly everything shuts down, with perhaps just a of the participating World Cup countries. The city code
16. The smell of leather shoes for him and her welcomes you few shops at the train station open, and on Saturdays you’ll for Berlin is (+49) (0)30.
when you enter. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. see many smaller shops closing around 14:00. Though it Office supplies Angola Wallstraße 58, tel. 24 08 970, botschaft@
Closed Sun. may thwart your purchasing plans, it does result in a special Bürobedarf Hänsel Marsilstein 15-19, tel. 20 64 60. botschaftangola.de, http://www.botschaftangola.de.
relaxed feel to the Sundays, which is quite nice for a change. K.S.Schnitzler Luxemburger Str. 193, tel. 41 35 46. Argentina Kleiststraße 23-26, tel. 226 68 90, info@
Credit cards are still to be embraced by most shops, much argentinische-botschaft.de, www.argentinische-
Speciality shops to the annoyance to big-spending foreigners. This is due to botschaft.de.
Douglas Perfume B-2, Schildergasse 1-9, tel. 257 73 81. the system of electronic debit card payments that was in Real estate Australia Wallstr. 76-79, MI, tel. 880 08 80, www.
A wonderland of smell, perfect for that “I’m So Sorry” present. place in Germany and other mainland European countries ATIS Müller International Overstolzenstr. 2a, tel. australian-embassy.de.
much earlier; this is a safer and cheaper system than 934 63 30. Brazil Wallstrasse 57, tel. 72 62 80, brasil@brasember-
Haus der 1000 Pfeifen A-3, Martinsgasse 16-20, tel. credit card as it always requires PIN identicication rather K.H. Wiegand Immobilien Von-Werth-Str. 18, tel. lim.de, http://www.brasilianische-botschaft.de.
258 22 01. A specialist tobacconist. If you ever wanted to than a signature, and is free of the 3% commission for the 16 03 70. Costa Rica Dessauer Strasse 28/29, tel. 26 39 89
know what a €1000 pipe looked like, your wish will be granted shopkeepers (eventually paid by you, dear shopper). Reuter Immobilien Hohenzollernring 12, tel. 257 90, consulado@botschaft-costarica.de, http://www.
here. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. 01 01. botschaft-costarica.de/.
One of the best selectionx in town. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Croatia Ahornstraße 4, tel. 21 91 55 14, info@
Litharion B-2, Auf dem Berlich 24, tel. 258 01 37. This kroatische-botschaft.de.
jewellery store sparkles at you when you walk by. QOpen
Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Local consulates Czech Republic Wilhelmstr. 44, tel. 22 63 80,
Consulate General of Italy Universitätstr. 81, tel. 40 www.mzv.cz/berlin.
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Supermarkets 08 70, http://www.consolato-italia-colonia.de/. Ecuador Kaiser-Friedrich-Str. 90, tel. 800 96 95, ale-
Traub & Sohn B-2, Breite Str. 6-26. A very large jewellery Aldi B-2, Richmodstr. 31. Cheap supermarket with prod- mania@embassy-ecuador.org, http://www.embassy-
ecuador.org.
store that has some antiques as well as more modern styles.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
ucts still in the boxes. If you need to feed an army you can do
it affordably here. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Municipality France Pariser Pl. 5, tel. 590 03 90 00, www.
Fritz Schramma is currently the mayor of Cologne, and botschaft-frankreich.de.
Kaisers A-3, Hohenstaufenring 29-37. One of the main Ghana Stavangerstr. 17-19, tel. 547 14 90, consular@
Sports supermarket chains within Germany. Fresh produce, a large
as been since September of 2000. He is part of the CDU
party, which is a little to the right of the political centre. ghanaemberlin.de, http://www.ghanaemberlin.de.
Karstadt Sport B-2, Neumarkt 2, MNeumarkt, tel. selection of beer and wine and spiffy red outfits. QOpen Cologne currently has 1,022,627 inhabitants and borders Iran Podbielskiallee 65-67, tel. 84 35 30, iran.
203 90. Everything from designer running shorts to tents. 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. stretching 130km. botschaft@t-online.de, http://www.iranembassy.de.
Town Hall Laurenzplatz 1/3, tel. 22 10, www.stadt- Italy Hiroshimastr. 1-7, tel. 25 44 00, w w w.
koeln.de. botschaft-italien.de.
Ivory Coast Lützowstrasse 33-36, tel. 590 02 30.
Japan (Consulate General) D-3, Kleiststr. 23-26,
Currency exchange tel. 21 09 40, www.botschaft-japan.de.
Reisebank Hauptbahnhof, tel. 20 03 20 04, www. Mexico Klingelhöferstr. 3, tel. 269323 0, mail@
reisebank.de. The most convenient place for converting embamexale.de, http://www.embamex.de.
cash currency, with offices all over Cologne. Also at the airport Netherlands Klosterstr. 50, tel. 20 95 60, www.
(open 07:00-19:00). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. niederlandeweb.de.
Paraguay Hardenbergstr. 12, tel. 319 98 60, em-
bapyde@t-online.de.
Dentists Poland Lassenstr. 19-21, tel. 223 13 20, www.
For emergencies call tel. 01805 98 67 00 (24hrs). botschaft-polen.de.
Portugal Zimmerstr. 56, tel. 590 06 35 00.
Zentrum fuer klinische Zahnmedizin Hansaring 55, Saudi-Arabia Kurfürstendamm 63, tel. 88 92 50.
tel. 474 79 00. Serbia-Montenegro Taubertstrasse 18, tel. 895
77 00, info@botschaft-smg.de.
South Korea Schöneberger Ufer 89-91, tel. 26 06 50,
Hairdressers koremb-ge@mofat.go.kr, www.koreaemb.de.
Haarstudio 2000 Schildergasse 2-4, tel. 258 01 27. Spain Lichtensteinallee 1, TG, tel. 254 00 70, www.
Studio Peter Steimel Apostelnkloster 17, tel. 257 spanischebotschaft.de.
03 09. Sweden Rauchstr. 1, tel. 50 50 60, www.schwe-
Toni & Guy Hohenzollernring 49, tel. 257 34 13. den.org.
Switzerland Otto-von-Bismarck-Allee 4 A, tel. 390
40 00, vertretung@ber.rep.admin.ch, www.botschaft-
Health Clinics & Hospitals schweiz.de.
Klinik am Ring Hohenstaufenring 28, tel. 92 42 41 00, Togo Grabbeallee 43, tel. 48 47 64 71, Bbotschaft-
www.klinik-am-ring.de. togo@web.de, www.botschaft-togo.de.
Krankenhaus der Augustinerinnen Jakobstrasse 27- Tunisia Lindenallee 16, tel. 36 41 07 0.
31, tel. 330 80, www.koeln-kh-augustinerinnen.de. Ukraine Albrechtstrasse 26, tel. 28 88 72 20,
ukremb@t-online.de, www.botschaft-ukraine.de.
United Kingdom Wilhelmstr. 70-71, MI, tel. 20 45
Pharmacies 70, www.britischebotschaft.de.
Am Opernhaus Apotheke Breite Str. 29, tel. 258 USA Neustädtische Kirchstr. 4-5, MI, tel. 830 50,
01 60. www.usembassy.de. American Citizen Services: tel.
Apotheke am Neumarkt Neumarkt 2, tel. 272 73 832 92 33.
40.

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


44 direCtory street register 45

Aachener Str. A-2 Brabanter Str. A-2 Gremberger Str. F-3 Kleine Budengasse C-2 Neven-Du-Mont-Str. B-2 Sporthallenweg D-1
Achtergäßchen C-4 Brandenburgstr. C-1 Grenzhausener Weg E/F-3 Kleine Sandkaul (24) C-3 Niederichstr. C-1 St.-Apern-Str. A-2
Achterstr. C-4 Breite Str. B-2 Griechenpforte B-3 Kleine Spitzengasse B-3 Norbertstr. A-2 Stadtgarten A-1/2
Adam-Stegerwald-Str. E/F-1 Bremerstr. B-1 Große Brinkgasse A-2 Kleine Telegraphenstr. B-3 Nord-Süd-Fahrt B-3 Stadtgarten E-3
Adolf-Fischer-Str. B-1 Breslauer Platz C-2 Große Budengasse C-2 Kleine Witschgasse C-3 Obenmarspforten C-2 Stadthaus D/E-2
Adolphstr. D-3 Brigittengäßchen C-2 Große Neugasse C-2 Kleiner Griechenmarkt B-3 Odenwaldstr. F-3 Stauderstr. A-4
Agrippastr. B-3 Brückenstr. B-2 Große Sandkaul C-2/3 Kleingedankstr. B-4 Offenbachplatz B-2 Steinfelder Gasse B-2
Alarichstr. D/E-3 Brüderstr. B-2 Große Witschgasse C-3 Klingelpütz B-1/2 Opladener Str. D-2 Steinstr. B-4
Albertusstr. A-2 Brügelmannstr. E-1/2 Großer Griechenmarkt B-3 Koelhoffstr. C-3 Osterglockenweg E-4 Steinweg C-2
Alemannenstr. E-3 Bruktererstr. D-3 Gülichplatz (22) C-2 Kölnarena E-2 Ostermannplatz (15) C-2 Stephanstraße (29) B/C-3
Alexianerstr. B-3 Brunostr. B/C-4 Gummersbacher Str. E/F-2 Kolpingplatz B-2 Östliche Zubringerstr. E-3 Sternengasse B-3
Alfred-Schütte-Allee D-3/4 Brüsseler Str. A-2 Gürzenichstr. B/C-3 Kolumbastr. B-2 Otto-Fischer-Str. A-4 Stolkgasse B-2
Allerheiligenstr. C-1 Burgenlandstr. D/F-3 Habsburgerring A-3 Komödienstr. B/C-2 Otto-Gerig-Str. D-3/4 Stollwerkhof C-4
Allerseelenstr. E-4 Bürgerstraße (7) C-2 Hachenburger Str. F-3 Königstr. C-3 Ottoplatz D-2 Stolzestr. A-4
Alsenstr. D-2 Burghöfchen (21) B-3 Hafengasse C-2 Konrad-Adenauer-Ufer Overstolzenstr. B-4 Streitzeuggasse B-2
Alte Mauer am Bach B-3 Burgmauer B-2 Hahnenstr. A-3 C-1/2 Palmstr. A-2 Subbelratherstr. A-1
Alte Wallgasse A-2 Burgunderstr. A-4 Halbmondgäßchen (16) C-2 Konstantin-Wille-Str. F-4 Pantaleonsgasse B-3 Sudermannplatz B-1
Alteburgerstr. C-4 Buschgasse C-4 Hamburger Str. B-1 Kostgasse C-2 Pantaleonsmühlengasse Sudermannstr. B-1
Altenbergerstr. C-1/2 Buttermarkt C-2 Hämergasse B-2 Krahnenstr. C-1 A-3/4 Suevenstr. D-3
Altengrabengäßchen B-2 Cäcilienstr. B-3 Händelstr. A-3 Krebsgasse B-2 Pantaleonswall A/B-4 Taubengasse A-3
Alter Markt C-2 Camberger Str. F-3 Hans-Carl-Nipperdey-Str. A-4 Krefelder Str. B-1 Pastor-Könn-Platz A-2 Taubenholzweg F-4
Alter Mühlenweg D-3/4 Cardinalstr. B-2 Hansaring B-1 Kreuzgasse B-2 Paul-Schallück-Str. A-4 Taunusplatz F-3
Am Alten Posthof B-2 Cheruskerstr. D-3 Hardefuststr. B-4 Kronengasse B-3 Paulstr. A-4 Taunusstr. F-3
Am Alten Ufer C-1/2 Chlodwigplatz C-4 Hasertstr. D-3 Kroppacher Str. F-3 Perlengasse (2) B-2 Tel-Aviv-Str. B-3
Am Bayernturm C-4 Christophstr. A/B-2 Hauptbahnhof C-2 Krummer Büchel B-3 Perlengraben B-3 Tempelstr. D-2/3
Am Bollwerk C-2 Christtannenweg E-4 Heinrich-Böll-Platz C-2 Kuhlemannsstr. B-3 Perlenpfuhl B-2 Tenktererstr. D-3
Am Deutzer Stadtgarten Clemensstr. B-3 Heinrichstr. B-3 Kunftstr. F-1/2 Peter-Stühlen-Str. F-2 Teutonenstr. D-3
D/E-3 Clever Str. C-1 Heinsberger Str. A-3 Kunibertgasse C-1 Peterstr. B-3 Theo-Burauen-Platz (3) C-2
Am Domhof C-2 Constantin Str. D-2 Helenenstr. A/B-2 Kunibertskloster C-1 Pfälzer Str. A-4 Theoderichstr. F-3
Am Duffesbach A-4 Cordulastr. B-1 Helenenwallstr. D-3 Kunibertsklostergasse C-1 Pfälzischer Ring E/F-1 Theodor-Babilon-Str. D-2
Am Frankenturm (6) C-2 Corneliusstr. C-4 Heribertusstr. D-3 Kupfergasse B-2 Pfarrer-Moll-Str. F-3 Theodor-Brauer-Str. E/F-1
Am Grauen Stein E/F-4 Custodisstr. D-3 Herkulesstr. A-1 Kurfürstenstr. C-4 Pfeilstr. A-2 Theodor-Heuss-Ring C-1
Am Hof C-2 Dagobertstr. C-1 Hermann-Becker-Str. A-1 Kurt-Hackenbergplatz C-2 Pfingstrosenweg E-4 Theodor-Hürth-Str. D-3
Am Justizzentrum A-4 Dasselstr. A-3 Hermann-Joseph-Platz C-3 Kurze Str. F-2 Pilgrimstr. A-3 Thieboldsgasse B-3
Am Kümpchenshof A/B-1 Dechant-Löbbel-Platz B-1 Hermann-Pünder-Str. D-2 Kyffhäuserstr. A-3 Pipinstr. C-3 Thürmchenswall C-1
Am Leystapel C-3 Deutz-Kalker-Str. D/F-2 Herwarthstr. A-2 Kyotostr. B-1 Plankgasse B-1 Thurnmarkt C-3
Am Malzberg C-3 Deutz-Mülheimer-Str. E-1/2 Herzogstr. B-2 Lahnstr. F-3 Plectrudengasse (28) C-3 Thusneldastr. D/E-3
Am Pantaleonsberg B-3/4 Deutzer Brücke C-3 Heumarkt C-2 Landsbergstr. C-4 Poll-Vingster-Str. F-4 Tipsgasse (19) C-2
Am Rinkenpfuhl A-3 Deutzer Freiheit D-2 Hildeboldplatz A-2 Langobardenstr. D-3 Poller Kirchweg D/E-4 Trajanstr. C-4
Am Römertor B-2 Deutzer Ring D/F-3 Hillscheider Weg F-3 Laurenzgittergäßchen (4) C-2 Portalsgasse (9) C-2 Trierer Str. A/B-4
Am Salzmagazin B-1 Deutzer Werft D-3 Hirschgasse C-4 Laurenzplatz C-2 Postprivatstr. B-2 Trimbornstr. F-2/3
Am Trutzenberg B-3/4 Dillenburger Str. F-3 Hochhadenstr. A-3/4 Legienstr. E-1 Poststr. B-3 Troisdorfer Str. D-3
Am Weldenbach B-3/4 Domgasse B-2 Hochpfortenbüchel B-3 Leonhard-Teitz-Str. B-3 Prinzen-Garde-Wall A-4 Tunisstr. B-2
Am Weyertor A-3 Domprobst-Ketzer-Str. B-2 Hohe Pforte B-3 Lichthof C-3 Probsteigasse A-2/B-1 Turiner Str. C-1
An den Dominikanern B-2 Domstr. C-1 Hohe Straße B-2/3 Limburger Str. A-2 Quatermarkt (23) C-2 Ubierring C-4
An den Maien E-4 Dr.-Simons-Str. E-4 Hohenstaufenring A-3 Lindenstr. A-3 Quentelstr. C-4 Ulitzkastr. F-1
An der Bastion D-3 Dreikönigenstr. C-4 Hohenzollernring A-2 Lintgasse C-2 Quirinstr. B-3 Ulrepfort B-4
An der Berlich B-2 Drususgasse B-2 Höhrer Weg E/F-3 Lochnerstr. A-3 Rathausplatz (8) C-2 Ulrichgasse B-4
An der Bottmühle C-4 Düppelstr. D-2 Holzgasse C-3 Lorenzstr. D-3 Rathenauplatz A-3 Unter Fettenhennen B-2
An der Eiche C-4 Ebertplatz C-1 Holzmarkt C-3 Lothringer Str. B-4 Reinoldstr. B-3 Unter Goldschmied C-2
An der Hahnepooz A-3 Edith-Stein-Str. E-1 Höninger Weg A-4 Löwengasse C-3 Reischplatz D-2 Unter Kahlenhausen C-1
An der Lenzwiese F-3/4 Efeuplatz E-4 Hühnergasse (13) C-2 Lübecker Str. B-1 Reitweg E-3 Unter Käster C-2
An der Linde C-1 Ehrenstr. A-2 Huhnsgasse A-3 Ludwig-Str. B-2 Rengsdorfer Str. D/F-3 Unter Krahnenbäumen C-1
An der Malzmühle C-3 Eifelplatz A-4 Humboldtstr. A-3 Luisenstr. D-2/3 Rheinaustr. C-3 Unter Sachsenhausen B-2
An der Münze C-1 Eifelstr. A/B-4 Idsteiner Str. F-3 Lungengasse B-3 Rheingasse C-3 Unter-Taschenmacher (33)
An der Pauluskirche B-4 Eifelwall A-4 Im Bischofsacker F-1 Lütticher Str. A-2 Rheinpark D-1 C-2
An der Pulvermühle F-3 Eigelstein B-1 Im Dau B/C-4 Luxemburger Str. A-3/4 Rheinparkweg D-1 Urbanstr. D-2
An der Rechtschule B-2 Eintrachtstr. B-1 Im Ferkulum C-4 Luxemburger Wall A-4 Richard-Wagner-Str. A-3 Ursulagartenstr. B-1
An der Ruhr B-2 Eitorfer Str. E-2/3 Im Glockenring B-1 Maastricher Str. A-2 Richartz-Str. B-2 Ursulakloster B-1
Apotheke im Hauptbahnhof C-2, Hauptbahnhof, tel. Mauritius Therme A-3, Mauritiuskirchplatz 3-11, An Lyskirchen
An Sankt Magdalenen C-4
C-3 Elisenstr.
Elsaßstr.
B-2
B/C-4
Im Hasental
Im Klapperhof
D-3
A-2
Machabäerstr.
Magnusstr.
C-1
A/B-2
Richmodstr.
Riehler Str.
B-2
C-1
Ursulaplatz
Ursulastr.
B-1
B-1
139 11 12. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00. MMauritiuskirchplatz, tel. 92 41 39 10, www.mauri- An St. Agatha B-3 Elstergasse B-2 Im Krahnenhof C-1 Mainzer Str. C-4 Ritterstr. B-1 Usinger Str. F-3
Closed Sun. tius-ht.de. A thermal bath designed to seduce the senses An St. Katharinen
An St. Urban
C-3/4
F-1
Emser Str.
Enge
F-3
F-2
Im Laach
Im Mediapark
B-3
A-1
Maler-Bock-Gäßchen (30) C-4
Maria-Ablaß-Platz B-2
Robertstr.
Röhrergasse
F-2/3
B-2
Vallendarer Str.
Venloer Str.
F-3
A-2
Birkenapotheke Hohestaufenring 59, tel. 240 22 and calm the soul. Enjoy the many various saunas and steam An Zint Jan
Ankerstr.
C-3/4
B-4
Engelbertstr.
Enggasse
A-3
B-2
Im Sionstal
Im Stavenhof
C-3
B-1
Mariengasse
Marienplatz
B-2
C-3
Rolshover Kirchweg
Rolshover Str.
E-4
F-2/4
Venloer Wall
Verkehrsübungsplatz F-4
A-1
42. rooms here, or relax in one of the meditation rooms. A perfect Annostr. C-4 Erftstr. A-1 Im Weichserhof C-3 Markmannsgasse C-2 Römergasse A-2 Victoriastr. B-1
Hansa Apotheke C-1, Ebertplatz 7, tel. 73 18 92. place to unwind, and only a five minute walk from Neumarkt. Antoniastr.
Antoniterstr.
F-2
B-3
Erich-Klibansky-Platz A-2
Esser Str. F-3
Immergrünweg
In der Fleischhalle (25)
E-4 Markomannenstr.
Marsenstr.
D-3
D-3
Roncalliplatz
Roonstr.
C-2
A-3
Vietorstr.
Vogteistr.
F-2
B-1
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Q Admission €12 for 3hrs. Antonsgasse B-3 Eumeniusstr. D-2/3 C-2/3 Marsilstein A-3 Rosenstr. C-4 Volksgarten A-4
Antwerpener Str. A-2 Färbergasse B-3 In der Höhle C-2 Marspfortengasse (12) B/C-2 Rote-Funken-Plätzchen C-2 Volksgartenstr. B-4
Aposteln-Kloster A-2/3 Faßbindergasse (20) C-2 Isabellenstr. B-4 Marsplatz C-2 Rothgerberbach B-3 Volpertusstr. F-3

Pools Apostelnstr.
Appellhofplatz
Aquinostr.
A-2
B-2
B-1
Feldbergstr.
Ferdinandstr.
Filzengraben
F-3
E-1
C-3
Jabachstr.
Jahnstr.
Jakob-Rasquin-Str.
B-3
A-3
F-4
Martinsfeld
Martinspförtchen (17) C-2
Martinstr.
B-3

C-2
Rubensstr.
Rudolfplatz
Saarstr.
A-3
A-2
A-4
Von-Gablenz-Str.
Von-Sandt-Platz
Von-Werth-Str.
D-3
D-2
A-1/2
Agrippabad B-3,. AgrippabadKaemmergasse 1PostStr.T: Arminiusstr.
Arndtstr.
D-3
A-3
Fischmarkt
Flammersfelder Str.
C-2
F-3
Jakobstr.
Jakordenstr.
B/C-4
C-1
Marzellenstr.
Maternusstr.
B/C-2
C-4
Sachsenring
Salierring
B-4
A-4
Vondelstr. B-4
Vor den Siebenburgen B-4
0221 279 17 30www.koelnbaeder.deIf you get the urge to go Arnold-Overzier-Str. C-4 Flanderische Str. A-2 Johannisstr. C-1/2 Mathiasstr. C-3 Salomgasse C-2 Vor St. Martin (27) C-3
Arnold-von-Siegen-Str. (32) C-4 Fleischmengergasse B-3 Josef-Haubrich-Hof B-3 Mathildenstr. D-3 Salzgasse C-2 Vorgebirgstr. B-4
swimming yet are turned off by the colour of the Rhein then Arnoldsstr. D-3 Follerstr. C-3 Josephstr. B/C-4 Mauritiuskirchplatz A-3 Sauerlandstr. F-4 Vorsterstr. F-2
do not despair, for there is the Agrippabad with its large laps Auenweg
Auf dem Brand (5)
C/D-1
C-2
Frankengasse
Frankenplatz
B/C-2
C-2
Judengasse (10)
Judenkirchhofsweg
C-2
E-4
Mauritiussteinweg A/B-3
Mauritiusweg A-3
Schaafenstr.
Schaevenstr.
A-3
A-3
Wahner Str.
Waidmarkt
D-3
B-3
pool, kids pools, outside pools, slippery-slide, diving boards, Auf dem Hunnenrücken B-2 Frankstr. A-3 Juliusstr. E/F-1 Mauthgasse C-2 Schartgasse B-3 Waisenhausgasse B-3/4
Auf dem Rothenberg C-2 Friedensstr. B-3 Jupp-Schmitz-Plätzchen 11) C-2 Max-Glomsda-Str. F-4 Schaurtestr. D-3 Wallrafplatz B-2
saunas, and fitness area. A great place to tire out the kids, Auf Rheinberg C-3 Friedrichstr. A/B-3 Justinianstr. D-2 Maximinenstr. C-1/2 Schemmergasse B-3 Walter-Kasper-Weg E-3/4
so expect shrill cries of happiness from them. Q Admission Augustinerstr.
Bahnhofvorplatz
C-3
C-2
Friesenplatz
Friesenstr.
A-2
A-2
Kaesenstr.
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Ring
A/B-4
A-2
Maybachstr.
Mechtildisstr.
A/B-1
C-3
Schildergasse
Schillingstr.
B-2
C-1
Walter-Pauli-Ring
Waltharistr.
F-1/2
E-3
€4.50m, €12.50 incl. saunas, for 2hrs. Balduinstr. A-3 Friesenwall A-2 Kalk-Mülheimer-Str. F-1/2 Media-Park A-1 Schnurgasse B-4 Wattstr. F-3
Claudius Therme Sachsenbergstr. 1, www.claudius- Balthasarstr.
Barbarossaplatz
B-1
A-3
Gabelsberger Str.
Gaußstr.
A-4
E/F-1
Kalker Hauptstr.
Kaltenbornweg
F-2
D-4
Meister-Gerhard-Str. A-3
Mengelbergstr. B-3
Schwalbengasse
Schwertnergasse (1) B-2
B-2 Weberstr.
Wehrgasse
C-3
C-2
therme.de. A very large and busy thermal bath. What is lost Barmer Platz D-2 Gebrüder-Coblenz-Str. E-3 Kamekastr. A-2 Merowinger Str. C-4 Sedanstr. C-1 Weidengasse B-1
Bataverstr. D-3 Genter Str. A-2 Kämmergasse B-3 Messeboulevard C/D-1 Seidenmacherinnen- Weilburger Str. F-3
in the size of the place is made up for with the extensive Baumstr. B-3 Georgsplatz C-3 Kannebäckerstr. E-3 Messeplatz D-2 gäßchen (14) C-2 Werderstr. A-2
array of saunas, spas, pools, meditation rooms and bars. Bayernstr.
Bebelplatz
C-4
D-3
Georgstr.
Gereonsdriesch
C-3
B-2
Kardinal-Frings-Str.
Karl-Berbuer-Platz
B-2
A-4
Messeturm
Metzer Str.
D-1
B-4
Servasgase
Severinsbrücke
C-1
C/E-3
Wermelskircher Str.
Westerwaldstr.
F-1
F-3
To ensure a comfortable time, bring a towel, a bath-robe Bechergasse C-2 Gereonshof A-2 Karl-Korn-Str. C-4 Michaelstr. A-3 Severinskloster C-4 Wetzlarer Str. F-3
Beethovenstr. A-3 Gereonskloster A-2 Karlsruher Str. F-1 Mindener Str. D-2 Severinsmühlengasse C-4 Weyerstr. A-3
and a pair of sandals. Anglo-Saxon inhibitions have no place Belfortstr. C-1 Gereonsmühlengasse B-1/2 Karlstr. D-2 Minoritenstr. B-2 Severinstor C-4 Wilhelm-Hoßdorf-Str. B-3
here: bathing costumes are not deemed appropriate. Q Bendorfer Weg
Benediktusgasse
E/F-3
D-3
Gereonstr.
Gereonswall
B-2
A/B-1
Karolingerring
Karthäusergasse
C-4
B-4
Mittelstr.
Mohrenstr.
A-2
B-2
Severinstr.
Severinswall
C-3/4
C-4
Willy-Brandt-Platz
Wipperfürther Str.
D/E-2
F-2
Admission €13 for 2hrs. Benesisstr. A-2 Gertrudenstr. B-2 Karthäuserhof B/C-4 Montabaurer Weg F-3 Seyengasse C-4 Wissener Weg E-3/4
Benjaminstr. D-3 Geyergasse (26) C-3 Karthäuserwall B/C-4 Mörsergasse B-2 Siegburger Str. D/E-3/4 Wolfstr. B-2
Betzdorfer Str. D-2 Gießener Str. E/F-3 Kasermattenstr. D-2 Moselstr. A-4 Siegesstr. D-2 Wörthstr. C-1
Biberstr. C-4 Gilbachstr. A-1 Kasinostr. C-3 Mozartstr. A-3 Sieversstr. F-2 Zeppelinstr. B-2
Bischofsgartenstr. C-2 Gladbacher Str. A-1 Kasparstr. B-1 Mühlenbach C-3 Silvanstr. C-4 Zeughausstr. B-2
Bismarckstr. A-2 Glockengasse B-2 Kastellgäßchen (18) C-2 Mühlengasse C-2 Singhofener Str. F-4 Zugasse C-4
Blaubach B-3 Goebenstr. A-2 Katharinengraben C-3 Nassauer Str. F-3 Sonnenscheinstr. E-1 Zülpicher Platz A-3
Blaue-Funken-Wall B-4 Goldgasse C-2 Katharinenhof C-4 Neue Langgasse B-2 Speditionshof D-1 Zülpicher Str. A-3
www.inyourpocket.com Blumenstr.
Bobstr.
B-1
B-3
Görresstr.
Gotenring
A-3
D-2/3
Kattenbug
Kaygasse
B-2
B-3
Neue Weyerstr.
Neuhöfferstr.
A/B-3
D-2
Spichernstr. A-1/2
Spielmannsgasse (31) C-4
Zwirnerstr. C-4

Bolzengasse C-2 Grabengasse D-3 Kennedy-Ufer D-2 Neuköllner Str. B-3 Spiessergasse A-2
Börsengasse C-3 Graf-Geßler-Str. D-2 Kettengasse A-2 Neumarkt B-3 Spinnmühlengasse B-3
Börsenplatz B-2 Greesbergstr. C-1 Kleine Brinkgasse A-2 Neusser Str. B-1 Sporergasse B/C-2
Sco

Cologne In Your Pocket June - July 2006


50 indeX
4711-Haus 32 Euro Garden 16 Museum Ludwig 34 Sansone 26
AAA BudgetHotel 18 Farina Haus 33 Nachtflug 31 Savoy 16
Alemania
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19
Schloss Augustusburg
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30
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Am Chlodwigplatz 18 Filmdose 26 Opera 32 Schnütgen Museum 34
An der Philharmonie 18 Flanagan’s 29 Orlando 22 Shamrock 30
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Aphrodite 25 Fromme 22 Pacific Bar 28 International 29
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Brauhaus Früh am Dom 21 Holtmann’s Café 22 Residence 20 Underground 29
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Brauhaus Reissdorf 22 Hotel Im Wasserturm 14 Rheinpark 35 Viman 21 Poles You
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Café Heumarkt 22 Ibis Köln City Messe/Arena 19 Rhine Cable Car 35 Wallraf-Richartz Museum 34 South Central

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Dollhouse 31 Lindenthaler Tierpark 35
Dom
Dom Hotel
34
15
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Luciano
30
25 poznań praguE riga rijEka st. pEtErsburg
Dorint Novotel Köln City 19 Lyskirchen 16
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EL-DE Haus
El Gaucho
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