TD-4074, TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

(Weaving Calculations)

Khubab Shaker
Lecturer Weaving Department National Textile University, Faisalabad

TD-4074, Textile Calculations (Weaving)

Khubab Shaker

Course Outlines
Lectures 2 Module Fabric contraction Learning Outcomes -Calculate warp contraction -Calculate weft contraction -Contraction in different weaves -Determine GSM of fabric -Determine warp weight per linear meter (GLM) -Inter-conversion of GSM and GLM -What is cover factor -Factors affecting cover factor -Calculate cover factor for different constructions -Determine reed space for a quality -Determine reed count for fabric -Determine total ends for fabric qualities -Determine requirement of warp for particular quality. -Determine requirement of weft for particular quality. -Fabric produced from a certain amount of yarn

Fabric Weight

Cover factor

Reed calculations

Yarn requirement

Reference Book
Weaving Calculations by R. Sen Gupta

7th Semester, Fall 2013

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TD-4074, Textile Calculations (Weaving)

Khubab Shaker

1. Fabric Contraction
The woven fabric is produced by interlacement of two type of yarns, i.e. warp and weft. Contraction produced in the fabric is due to the undulations/crimp in the yarn. The contraction in fabric depends on the warp count, weft count, ends/inch, picks/inch and weave design. The plain woven fabric has the maximum contraction (due to more number of intersection), while the other weaves have less contraction. Contraction is also affected by loom settings and fiber type. Fabric Quality

Warp Contraction

Weft Contraction

W.F. = Weave Factor For 1/1=1 For 2/1= 1.16 For 3/1= 1.26 For 4/1= 1.34

Exercise 1:
Problem 1.1: Determine the warp and weft contraction for quality Problem 1.2: Determine the warp and weft contraction of 2/1 twill for quality Problem 1.3: Determine the warp and weft contraction of 3/1 twill for quality Problem 1.4: Determine the warp and weft contraction for quality

7th Semester, Fall 2013

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TD-4074, Textile Calculations (Weaving)

Khubab Shaker

2. Weight of Fabric
The fabric weight is expressed in terms of grams per square meter (GSM), grams per linear meter (GLM) or ounces per square yard (oz/yd2). The most commonly used term to compare different fabrics is GSM. It depends on the warp & weft count, thread density andcontraction in the fabric.

GLM
It is the weight of one linear meter of the fabric, irrespective of the fabric width.

Exercise 2:
Problem 2.1: Calculate the weight/m2and weight/linear meter with and without size for quality . Warp & weft contraction are 8.5% and 3.5%. Size add on in warp is 9%.

Problem 2.2: Calculate the GSM and GLM with and without size for plain fabric quality , if size %age is 16% and warp & weft contraction are 8.5% & 6.85% respectively. Problem 2.3: Calculate the sized and un-sized GSM and GLM of 4/1 satin fabric The warp is sized to 9.5% .

7th Semester, Fall 2013

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TD-4074, Textile Calculations (Weaving)

Khubab Shaker

3. Cover Factor
The cover factor is represented by Kc, and is the sum of warp cover factor (K1) and weft cover factor (K2). It can be calculated by the following formula:

Another formula for GSM

4. Reed Calculation
Reed is the part of loom responsible to beat the filling yarn to the fell of cloth. The reed consists of a number of small metallic strips called dents. Every reed has a specific reed count, which is expressed as number of dents/inch.

7th Semester, Fall 2013

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TD-4074, Textile Calculations (Weaving)

Khubab Shaker

5. Yarn Requirement

Where,

Exercise 5:
Problem 5.1: Calculate the amount of yarn required to produce 2000 meter fabric for quality . The warp & weft contraction are 8.5% and 3.5%. Problem 5.2: How much weft yarn is required to weave 5000 yards of a satin fabric quality , if warp & weft contractions are 8.5% & 6.85% respectively. Problem 5.3: Calculate the warp and weft yarn required in grams to weave satin. The order quantity is 300 meters. 4/1

7th Semester, Fall 2013

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