Original

J.Soc.Cosmet.Chem.Jpn.

451 28 342011

1.

TA

TA

14

28

5, 6

2010. 3. 26 2010. 7. 16
3501396 2201 : 2201, Fujimi, Sayama

2.
2.1.
2

3501396, Japan

1140005 4818 : 4818, Sakae-cho,

S-1S-6

Kita-ku, Tokyo 1140005, Japan

Table1

Table1Formulations of the simple systems S-1 to S-6. S-1, 2, 3 consist of 2 ingredients, whereas S-4, 5, 6 consist of 3 ingredients.
Contents
Wax

ethylenepropylene
co-polymer
polyglyceryl-10
decaisostearate

Oil-1
viscosity : 1200
mPas @25
Oil-2
isotridecyl
viscosity : 11
isononanoate
mPas @20

S-1

S-2

S-3

S-4

S-5

S-6

10

11

90

92

94

59

61

63

30

30

30

weight.

5 AE

2.2.TA

160 gf

2.2.1.TA

40 mmsec 50 mm

20 mm

30

2.3.

S-1S-6 AE

TA

40 mm

TA-XT plus

S-5 C

3.

2.2.2.
Table1 S-1S-6

3.1.

Table1

5 mm

10

S-1S-3 2

S-4S-6

160 gf 40 mmsec 50 mm

303

20 mm

Table2

2.2.3.

S-1S-3 S-4S-6

AE

J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn.Vol.45, No.12011

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 45 1 2011

Table2Load and frictional force of the lipstick samples.

Load is maximum value when lipstick sample was
cut off. Load is decreased remarkably as decre. Decrement in frictionment in waxcf. Table1
al force is small in comparison with that in load.
System

Sample

Load
gf

Simple

S-1
S-2
S-3
S-4
S-5
S-6

124.0
85.3
48.3
95.0
59.0
36.7

56.2
52.1
48.6
33.2
32.4
32.1

A
B
C
D
E

108.7
70.7
77.7
83.0
62.3

50.1
21.5
32.2
46.4
31.2

Product

Frictional force
gf

Spearman
4
Adhesion

Thickness
Stickiness

Protective film feeling Rapid

fix
Table3

S-1S-6
AE Fig.1b
Fig.1a

Fig.1
a2 S-1S-3 3
S-4S-6

Table3Correlation between load, frictional force and sensory evaluation.

There is the highest correlation between adhesion and frictional force both simple system and
product system.
Sensory evaluation
Adhesion
Thickness
Stickiness
Protective film feeling
Rapid fix

Loadgf
S-1S-6
0.73
0.77
0.62
0.28
0.29

Frictional forcegf
AE

0.73
0.25
0.60
0.00
0.40

S-1S-6

0.96
0.08
0.81
0.17
0.18

AE
0.97
0.10
0.87
0.37
0.14

.
Statistically significant correlations : p0.05, p0.01

Fig.1Relation between load and adhesion scores for each sample ; simple systemsa

product systemsb
.
There is a high correlation within 2 or 3 ingredients, respectively. However, the correlations within
whole systems are not very high. Adhesion score means rich feeling during application of lipsticks.
Subscript is the number of ingredient.
30

0.73

AE

Fig.1a

0.73

3.2.

AE

Fig.2

S-2

S-4 30

S-4 S-2

22.4 gf 30 25.8 gf

E 35.1 gf 30

50.4 gf

4.
4.1.

Fig.1

Fig.1a S-285

gf S-495 gf S-214S-43.5

Table3

4.2.

Fig.2

f2
f
1 t

f tf
f2

1 t
f2
g

x0

Fig.2Time dependence between frictional force for

each sample.
The frictional force of sample B increases slightly, whereas sample E increases remarkably.

x1
Voigt
J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn.Vol.45, No.12011

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 45 1 2011

g a C

d
xx1
k xx1
h0

dt

Fig.3

k h

a Fig.3b

k
x t
t

x1
x0x1exp
h

t x0

k
x t

x0x1x0 1exp
t
h

Hooke x0

k
t
f
C
x0x1
1exp
t
1
h

C C
x0x1
a

hkt

t
f t

a 1exp

a t g

Fig.2

a
1

g
exp
tt

Fig.2

TA atg

atg

Table4

AE a

AE 0.39

Table4 t

Table4Correlation between sensory evaluation and fitting parameters.

The highest correlation item is indicated in bold type.

32

Sensory evaluation

agf

ggf

tsec

Adhesion
Thickness
Stickiness
Protective film feeling
Rapid fix

0.14
0.47
0.39
0.83
0.65

0.97
0.10
0.87
0.37
0.14

0.13
0.59
0.12
0.15
0.61

t a

Fig.4 ag

30

5.

E B

TA

E 8.3 sec B 18.6 sec

Fig.3Relative positions of each sample ; between a and ga,between sensory evaluation itemsb.
The relative positions of samples are close with each other. Protective film feeling score
means film feeling after application of lipsticks.

Fig.4Relative positions of each sample ; between a and ta

, between sensory evaluation itemsb
.
The relative positions of samples are comparatively close with each other. Rapid fix score
means quick fit feeling after application of lipsticks.
J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn.Vol.45, No.12011

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 45 1 2011

1
31, 79811997
2K. Kusakari, M. Yoshida, F. Matsuzaki, T. Yanaki, H.
Fukui, M. Date, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 3213332003
3
12, 12182009

412, 33382009

5Y. Mizutori, K. Tsuhara, H. Hagiwara, J. Nakabayashi, S.

a t

Momose, T. Nishizono, H. Takematsu, K. Kuroda, 23rd

IFSCC Congress, Orlando, 2004

6
35, 79842007

A Study on the Quantification of Texture Properties in Lipsticks

Shinichi Kawahara , Kazuhiro Tsuhara , Kazuyoshi Haishima ,
Masaki Okuyama
KOS Corporation, Production Technology Center , Research Laboratories
Texture property is one of the most important factors in the individual customer requirements
for cosmetic products. A new instrument was developed to quantify the texture properties for
lipsticks. Skin friction was measured when lipsticks were spread on artificial skin with a certain
load. Correlation was obtained between friction and the result of a sensory evaluation item accounting for spread. The continuous film feeling was recognized by measuring friction with various intervals until spreading again. Strong film feeling was obtained in some samples as the viscosity increased. It was supposed to be caused by stability of the wax during rearrangement of
the film. From this result, a model of the film feeling was designed. The fitting parameters were
found to have correlation to the result of sensory evaluation items accounting for spread and fitness.
Key words : texture, lipstick, sensory evaluation, skin friction, film feeling, model, quantification, rearrangement, viscosity, spread

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