INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTYENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

Prof.R.B.CHAVAN DEPT. OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI

Dec.7,2002

I I T Delhi

PRESENT PAPER
STRUCTURE OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY

PROBLEMS
IMPACT ON ENVIRONMENT

POLLUTION CONTROL STRATEGY

GERMAN BAN RESPONSE OF MINISTRY OF TEXTILES TO COPE WITH GERMAN BAN
Dec.7,2002 I I T Delhi 2

TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA

NATURAL FIBRES / FABRICS

MAN-MADE FIBRES / FABRICS

W OO L

J U T E

S I L K

C OT TO N

RAYON
Cellulose / viscose

BLENDED
(Synthetic + Natural)

SYNTHETIC
(Nylon, PET, PAN)

Organized Sector (Mills)

Decentralized Sector

Spinning

Composites

Handloom

Powerloom

Khadi 3

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Spinning Capacity

40
No. of Spindles in million

33

30 20 10 0 1951 1997
2.1
No. of Looms in lakhs

11

weaving Capacity

2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 1.24

1951

1997

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Share of Cloth Production

10% 20%

20%

6%

70% 1950's
74% 1990's

Organized Sector
Power Loom
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Handloom I I T Delhi

INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY AND ITS PROBLEMS

ONE OF THE OLDEST AND SINGLE LARGEST INDUSTRIAL SECTORS
SHARE OF TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN 50S ORGANIZED SECTOR >75%

DENCENTRALIZED POWERLOOM 25% PRESENTLY ORGANIZED SECTOR 6% BALANCE POWERLOOME, HANDLOOM, HOSIERY
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DIFFICULT PHASE 60S AND 70S

OBSOLETE MACHINERY LACK OF MAINTENANCE LACK OF MODERNIZATION LOW PRODUCTIVITY LOW CAPACITY UTILIZATION STAGNANT DOMESTIC MARKETS SAGGING EXPORTS WIDE SPREAD SICKNESS
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EMERGING TRENDS

EMERGENCE OF SYNTHETIC AND BLENDED FABRICS PHENOMENAL EXPANSION OF SPINNING RAPID EXPANSION OF DECENTRALIZED POWERLOOM SECTOR BROUGHT SICKNESS COMPOSIT ORGANIZED SECTOR LARGE NUMBER OF MILLS WENT BANKRUPT 2/3 OF THEM WERE COMPOSIT MILLS
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NATIONALIZATION (1967)
SETTING UP OF NATIONAL TEXTILE CORPORATION (NTC) MAIN OBJECTIVE: EMPLOYMENT RELIEF TO THOUSANDS OF WORKERS PRODUCTION OF CONTROLLED CLOTH EXPERIMENT MISERABLY FAILED MANY NTC MILLS CLOSED DOWN
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NEW TEXTILE POLICY (1980)

OBJECTIVE: DEVELOP HARMONIOUSLY MILL, POWERLOOM AND HANDLOOM SECTORS RECOGNITION OF LACK OF MODERNIZATION AS MAIN CAUSE OF SICKNESS 750 CRORE AS TEXTLE MODERNIZATION FUNDS IN 1986
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SHIFT IN PRODUCTION PATTERN

1987 GLOBAL INCREASE IN COTTON PRICES SPINNING THOUGH TECHNOLOGICALLY ADVANCED, LABOUR INTENSIVE DEVELOPED COUNTRIES PREFERRED TO BYU YARN FROM DEVELOPING COUNTRIES LED TO YARN EXPORT GROWTH IN INDIA FROM 1987 ONWARDS 5% YARN EXPORT IN 1990 INCREASED TO 22% IN 1997
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LIBERALIZATION
DE-LICENSING OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY (1991) IMPORT OF MODERN MACHINES TO SET UP NEW UNITS IMPROVEMENT IN YARN QUALITY INDIA BECAME GLOBAL PLAYER IN YARN EXPORTS
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COLLAPSE OF YARN EXPORTS

IN 1990 70% EXPORT TO QUOTA COUNTRIES 30% TO NON-QUOTA COUNTRIES

AFTER LIBERIZATION INCREASE IN PRODUCTION STAGNANT QUOTA EXPORTS SHOT UP IN NON-QUOTA EXPORS 80% DROP IN QUOTA EXPORTS 20% UNINTENTIIONAL EXPORT DEPENDENCE ON NON-QUOTA COUNTRIES
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COLLAPSE OF YARN EXPORTS

IN 1997 CURRENCY CRISIS IN SOUTH EAST ASIAN COUNTRIES SEVERE EFFECT ON EXPORTS EXPORT BELOW COST DUMP EXPORT QUALITY YARN IN DOMESTIC MARKET CRIPPLING EFFECT ON TEXTILE INDUSTRU HUGE OVERSUPPLY POSITION SUNRISE INDUSTRY BECAME SUNSET INDUSTRY
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Dec.7,2002

WTO REGIME

MEMBER OF WTO SIGNATORY TO GATT( GENERAL AGREEMENT ON TRADE AND TARRIF) END OF ATC (AGREEMENT OF TEXTILES AND CLOTHING) BY DECEMBER 2004. END OF QUOTA ERA TO FACE THE GLOBAL COMPETITION LIMITED TIME FOR INDUSTRY RESTRUCTURE IMPROVED QUALITY PRODUCTS AT COMPETITIVE PRICE
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Dec.7,2002

NEED OF THE HOUR

MODERNIZE TO COMPETE GLOBALLY WITHSTAND CHEAPER IMPORTS FROM CHINA, PAKISTAN AND OTHER SOUTH-EAST ASIAN COUNTRIES

TECHNOLOGY UPGRADATION FUND SCHEME (TUFS) Rs 25 000 CRORE FOR MODERNIZATION 5% RE-IMBERSEMENT OF INTEREST CHARGED BY FINANCIAL INSTITUTIONS IN OPERATION FOR FIVE YEARS FROM APRIL 1999 MARCH 2004
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ENVIROMENT LEGISLATION

INDIA IS FIRST COUNTRY TO HAVE CONSTITUTIONAL PROVISION FOR ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION. NO SPECIFIC ENVIRONMENTAL NORMS FOR TEXTILE SECTOR INDUSTRY SPECIFIC STANDARDS EXIST STRINGENT ENVIRONMENTAL LEGISLATION POORLY EMFORCED JUDICIARY HAS TO INTERVENE TO ENFORCE ENVIRONMENTAL POLICIES JUDICIARY HAS GOT ITS OWN LIMITATIONS AND CAN NOT ACT AS ENFORCING AGENCY. MAKING LAW ONLY DOES NOT HELP ENVIRONMENT IS A SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY DESIRABLE COMPLIENCE SHOULD COME VOLUNTARILY FROM INDUSTRY AND NOT BY POLICING
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IMPACT ON ENVIRONMENT

INDUSTRIAL ACTIVITY IS ASSOCIATED WITH POLLUTION EXTENT VARIES CONCEPT: TO KEEP POLLUTION LEVEL AS LOW AS POSSIBLE ANOTHER DIMENSION: SOCIAL ACCOUNTABILITY STANDARDS SAS 1800 NO CHILD LABOUR MINIMUM LABOUR WAGES PROVISION OF HYGIENIC CONDITIONS AT WORK PLACE COMPLIANCE WITH GERMAN BAN INTRODUCED IN 1996
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Dec.7,2002

Input / output analysis of Textile Finishing Processes

Dyes

Base chemicals (e.g. acid, Alkali, sodium chloride)

Textile Energy Natural Fibres; 10-20 MJ/kg Synthetic Fibres: 5-50 MJ/kg

Textile Auxiliaries

Water 60-360 l/kg textile Wet Processing (pre-treatment, dyeing, printing, finishing.)

Polluted Air

Waste Sewage sludge: 60-70 g/kg textile

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Water Effluent I I T Delhi

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AIR EMMISSION SOURCES

FOUR GENERAL CATEGORIES OIL AND ACID MISTS SOLVENT VAPOURS ODOUR

DUST AND LINT

OIL AND ACID MISTS

MOST COMMON SOURCE IS STENTER
EVAPORATION OF SPINNING OILS, PLASTICIZERS, AND VOLATILE FINISHING AGENTS ACID MISTS (CORROSIVE) DURING WOOL CARBONIZATION VOLATILIZATION OF ORGANIC ACIDS LIKE ACETIC ACID

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SOLVENT VAPOURS
INCLUDE LARGE NUMBER OF TOXIC
CHEMICALS
KEROSENE OR MINERAL TURPENTINE OIL FORMALDEHYDE CARRIERS FOR POLYESTER DYEING

CHLOROFLUORO HYDROCARBONS
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ODOUR
ASSOCIATED WITH
OIL MIST OR SOLVENT VAPOURS SULPHUR DYEING BLEACHING WITH SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE

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DUST AND LINT

PRODUCED DURING SPINNING AND WEAVING

CARPET SHEARING
CAUSE RESPIRATORY DISEASES

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EFFLUENT CHARACTERISTICS
TEXTILE EFFLUENTS GENERALLY ARE COLOURED HIGH BOD HIGH TDS HIGH RATIO BETWEEN BOD AND COD RATIO OF 1:2 TO 1:3 INDICATES GOOD BIODEGRADABILITY IN WOOL RATIO 1:5 INDICATING DIFFICULT BIODEGRADABILITY DUE TO GREASE CONTENT
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DETERGENTS AND SURFACTANTS

RISK TO AQUATIC LIFE
HEALTH RISK TO LARGE POPULATION IF DISCHARGED IN RIVER USED FOR DRINKING

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METAL POLLUTANTS
METAL COMPLEX DYES

CHROMIUM SALTS USED FOR

SULPHUR DYE OXIDATION

CHROME DYEING OF WOOL

MORDANTS FOR NATURAL DYES
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ORGANIC WASTES

SIZES
VARIOUS ORGANIC SOLVENTS AND ACIDS

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CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE WASTES

HARD TO TREAT
HAZARDOUS OR TOXIC DISPERSIBLE HIGH VOLUME

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HARD TO TREAT WASTES

COLOURS
METALS PHENOL TOXIC ORGANIC COMPOUNDS PHOSPHATES NON-BIODEGRADABLE SURFACTANTS
TOXIC TO AQUATIC LIFE
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TOXIC WASTES
SUB GROUP OF HARD TO TREAT
WASTES METALS CHLORINATED SOLVENTS BOILER CHEMICALS

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DISPERSIBLE WASTES
PRINT PASTES COATING CHEMICALS UNUSED PROCESS CHEMICALS

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HIGH VOLUME WASTES

WASH WATER FROM PREPARATORY DYEING PRINTING EXHAUSTED DYEBATHS

POLLUTION CONTROL STRATEGIES

CLEANER PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES END OF PIPE TREATMENTS

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CLEANER PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

WASTE MINIMIZATION HIGHEST PRIORITY FOR REDUCTION IN WASTE WATER COUNTER CURRENT WASHING OPERATIONS OPTIMUM USE OF PROCESS CHEMICALS SUBSTITUTION OF TOXIC CHEMICALS BY ECO FRIENDLY CHEMICALS GOOD HOUSE KEEPING RECOVERY OF CHEMICALS SUCH AS SIZE, CAUSTIC SODA, DYES AND GREASE REPLACEMENT OF HIGH BOD CHEMICALS BY LOW BOD ONES USE OF LOW LIQUOR RATIO DYEING EQUIPMENTS IMPROVED PRODUCTION PROCESSES TO ELIMINATE AND REDUCE WASTE AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE
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CLEANER PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

END OF PIPE TREATMENTS SEGREGATION AND SEPARATE TREATMENT OF SPECIFIC EFFLUENT STREAM IS MORE EFFICIENT COMPARED TO COMBINED AND COMPLEX EFFLUENTS
SUCH STRATEGY PROVIDE OPPORTUNITY TO

Dec.7,2002

RE-USE WATER RECOVER CHEMICALS REDUCE SIZE OF TREATMENT PLANT

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EFFLUENT TREATMENT
COMMON PROCESS PRIMARY SETTLING FLOCULATION/CHEMICAL COAGULATION BIOLOGICAL TRETMENT SECONDARY PHYSICAL ADSORPTION TERTIARY TREATMENT IF NECESSARY

SLUDGE TREATMENT AND DISPOSAL

FORMATION OF LARGE QUANTITIES OF SLUDGE DURING BIOLOGICAL TREATMENT SUBJECT SLUDGE TO AEROBIC DIGESTION DEWATER BY CENTRIFUGE DISPOSE OFF TO LAND FILL

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SOLID WASTES
INCLUDE

CANS
REJECTED FABRIC PIECES CART AWAY TO LAND FILL OR INCINERATE ON OR OFF SITE DURING INCINERATION ADEQUATE AIR POLLUTION CONTROL MEASURES

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AIR EMMISSION CONROL

OIL MISTS AND VOLATILE ORGANIC CARBON (VOC) MORE DIFFICULT TO CONTROL CONTROL THE APPLICATION OF SPINNING

OILS AND

FINISHING AGENTS

PROPER AIR DUCTING INSTALLATION OF MIST ELIMINATORS

CONDENSATION OF VAPOURS BY COOLING THE CONTAMINATED AIR

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MANAGING AND AUDITING RESOURCE CONSUMPTION

RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS DEVELOPED MANUFACTURING NORMS FOR DESIRABLE USAGE OF RESOURCES SUCH AS WATER, LABOUR, ELECTRICITY AND COMMON CHEMICALS NORMS NOT IMPOSED LEGALLY ACT AS GUIDELINES MEMBERMILLS ARE ENCOURAGED TO FOLLOW THESE NORMS RECORD OF SIMPLE MATERIAL BALANCE WORTH EXAMINING THE RECORD OF STORE KEEPER AND PROCESSING DEPRTMENTS TO TRACK LOSSES OF EXPENSIVE AND/OR HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS DURING HANDLING AND PROCESSING
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MANAGING AND AUDITING RESOURCE CONSUMPTION

ASSESSMENT AT INTERVALS THE PERFORMANCE OF EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT AND AIR POLLUTION CONTROL EQUIPMENTS IT IS NECESSARY TO EMPLOY A FULL TIME PROFESSIONAL ENVIRONMENTAL TEAM OR TRAIN SENIOR STAFF AND WORKERS TO UNDERTAKE ENVIRONMENT MONITORING AND AUDIT TASKS COMMITMENT BY TO MANAGEMENT TO ESTABLISH SOUND ENVIRONMENT MANAGEMENT SYSTEM THIS WOULD ALSO IMPROVE THE PRODUCTIVITY AND PROFITABILITY OF THE ORGANIZATION
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SIMPLE OPTIONS

Dec.7,2002

IMPROVED HOUSEKEEPING BETTER EQUIPMENT MAINTENANCE OPTIMIZATION OF VARIOUS PROCESS SEQUENCES THE MANAGERS MUST HAVE BASELINE DATA FOR SIMILAR OPERATIONA IN OTHER INDUSTRIES COMPARE AND INTERPRET THE RESULTS WITH OPEN MIND ALLOW DISCUSSION BETWEEN STAFF AND ENCOURAGE TEAM MEMBERS TO BRING FORWARD INNOVATIVE IDEAS EVALUATE THE IDEAS FROM TECHNICAL AND ECONOMIC PERSPECTIVE
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POLICY MANAGEMENT BY GOVT OF INDIA

GERMAN BAN AND GOVERNMENT RESPONSE RECOGNITION THAT NUMBER OF DYES AND CHEMICALS ARE HAZARDOUS AFFECT THE CONSUMER HEALTH CAUSE IRREPARABLE DAMAGE TO ENVIRONMENT GERMANY IMPOSED BAN ON THE USE OF AZO DYES BASED ON CARCINOGENIC AMINE ABOUT 300 AZO DYES SUSPECTED TO BE CARCINOGENIC HAVE BEEN WITHDRAWN ENVIRONMENTAL PERMISSIBILITY NORMS FOR HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS ARE AVAILABLE FROM VARIOUS INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATIONS
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ECO STANDARDS AND ECO LABLES

CONCEPT OF ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILES IS PROMOTED BY ECO STANDARDS AND ECO LABLES ECO LABLES ARE BASED ON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY NORMS FOR VARIOUS CHEMICALS STIPULATED ON THE BASIS OF CRADLE TO GRAVE APPROACH

USE OF ECO LABLES IS VOLUNTARY IN NATURE

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ECO STANDARDS AND ECO LABLES

CHEMICALS CONSIDERED FOR ECO NORMS

Dec.7,2002

FORMALDEHYDE
TOXIC PESTICIDES PENTACHORO PHENOL HEAVY METAL TRACES CARCINOGENIC AZO DYES HALOGEN CARRIERS CHLORINE BLEACHING
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EFFORTS MADE BY GOVERNMENT OF INDIA

REGULATORY MEASURES PROHIBITION ON THE USE OF BANNED DYES EVOLUTION OF ECO STANDARDS AND LOGO FOR ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILES
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EFFORTS MADE BY GOVERNMENT OF INDIA

DEVELOPMENTAL MEASURES ORGANIZATION OF EDUCATIVE SEMINARS, WORKSHOPS FOR THE AWARENESS OF ECO FRIENDLY CONCEPTS ASSISTANCE TO INDUSTRY FOR THE SECURING ISO 9000 AND EMS 14000 CERTIFICATION FINACIAL ASSISTANCE THROUGH TUFS FOR MODERNIZATION MASSIVE PROGRAMME ON SETTING ECO
TESTING FACILITIES
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