How to Clean an Idle Air Control Valve in a Honda Accord

Edited by Ir1337, Oscuro87, Maluniu, Chris and 1 other

0
Article EditDiscuss

An idle air control valve (IACV) adjusts a car's idle depending on the amount of air that is entering the engine. The car's computer takes readings of idle control adjustments and regulates the car's rpm accordingly. Therefore, if the idle air control valve is not functioning properly, you will notice that your car is revving or idling irregularly. A high, fluctuating or erratic idle, or an idle that stalls out sporadically, is a sign that you may need to clean the idle air control valve. You do not need to be a mechanic in order to clean the IACV, but you will need some familiarity with the car parts under your hood. If you drive a Honda accord and your idle control is acting up, you will find that the IACV is readily accessible for ease of maintenance. Follow these directions for how to clean a Honda idle air control valve.
EditSteps

1. 1
Purchase a new IACV gasket. You will need to replace the old one on your Honda IACV before returning it back to its place under the hood.

2. 2
Locate the IACV. You will find it at the back center of the under hood area, near the throttle body (TB) and mounted on the rear of the intake manifold (IM). You will have to remove the TB intake hose in order to gain access to area of the IM that is connected to the IACV.

3. 3
Remove the Honda idle air control valve.
o o

Unscrew the 2 bolts attaching the IACV to the intake manifold. You will have to feel around for the lower bolt, which will be just out of plain sight. Pull out the gray plug from the right side of the Honda IACV.

o o o

Remove the blue plug from the throttle body. Locate the coolant hose that attaches the IACV to the TB. Use needle-nose pliers to pull back the clamp that holds the coolant hose in place and then pull the hose out. This will provide enough slack to pull the Honda idle air control valve to the front so you can completely remove it. Detach the last 2 hoses from the IACV in order to free it for cleaning.

4. 4
Remove the gasket from the Honda IACV and throw it away.

5. 5
Examine the valve so as to identify the carbon build up that must be cleaned out. Note the areas with the heaviest concentration of filth, as you will need to pay special attention to them during the cleaning.

6. 6
Clean the Honda idle air control valve. Spray the valve with the carb cleaner, being sure to thoroughly saturate the heavy buildup.

7. 7
Allow the IACV to dry completely.

8. 8
Put the new gasket in its place.

9. 9
Reinstall the IACV going backwards through the uninstall process.

10.

10

Adjust the idle control to its ideal setting

Honda Acura E R
Repair Guide

Home Main Relay Fix Ignition Problem Ignition Switch Overheating Transmission VSS ECU About Search Msc.

Archive Site Map Recent Addons Links

- Transmission
Overview Solution Troubleshooting Statistics The Electronic Automatic Transmission - Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace. Statistics

Type: Mechanical/Electronic

Overall

repair Transmission Diagnostic trouble ease: code: 1,2,7,8,9, and/or 15 Under the hood: Yes, TCU is under carpet. Reported Destructive: No incidents: Manufactured: Japan System Cars affected: Accord 90-93 impact: Informatio n available:

Mediu m

High Low

Low

Overview
The purpose and function of the transmission -

The Honda Automatic transmission is designed to allow the engine run in a favorable speed range in spite of varying acceleration and terrain. The Automatic transmission also allows the wheel to grip bad, loose or slippery roads, to provide engine braking and to protect the motor from excessive lugging. The 90-93 Accord is a modern vehicle that relies on the computer to determine shifting points to increase comfort and safety. Without the computer the transmission won't shift and the car will simply move at a snail's pace or will simply default to limp mode, which can either be 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. For example, a faulty transmission computer could cause the car to suddenly shift into lower gear while driving. This causes the car to drop in speed while the RPM shoots up. With other cases, the car will have a hard time accelerating from a stop unless the car is first manually shift to D2. The symptoms are followed by the 'S' or 'D4' shifter status light on the instrument panel blinking, or lights up or doesn't light up at all. If the car won't shift into correct gears and displays a selfdiagnostic light most likely the fault is not with the transmission. Sometimes a clattering sound may also be heard in the cockpit. This may be the sound of the transmission interlock system misbehaving, which may indicate a bad TCU. Do not replace the transmission without first confirming the situation electronically. The fault is usually the Automatic Transmission Control Unit (also known as the automatic transmission computer or TCU/TCM.)

Proper operation: The car starts at first gear at half throttle.

When the speed reaches about 17 - 21-mph the car shifts to second gear. When the speed reaches about 35 - 39-mph shifts to third gear. When the speed reaches about 54 - 60-mph the car shifts to fourth gear. When the speed reaches 60 - 65-mph or more the lock up torque converter engages. This is felt as a slight nudge. Shift sequence ends. The rpm may range from 2000 - 5000 before shifting depending on the throttle position. The 90-93 Accord can stay up to 68-mph in second gear.

If there is a problem with the input or output in the A/T control unit the D4 or S light in the gauge assembly will blink. However, some PGM-FI problem will also make the D4 light in the gauge assembly blink. If there is a problem with the emission fuel control system the code will have to be retrieved from the check engine light first. Repairing the emission fuel control system is first priority. After repairing the PGM-FI system then reset the A/T unit's memory.

Problem: The

usual problem with the Honda Accord transmission, namely the 90,91, -, - Accord, is a bad transmission computer. What happens is that the transmission computer has a couple cheap parts that fail. The failing parts may or may not automatically put the TCU

into a saftey (limp) mode (aka, the "fail safe strategy.") The three known failed components are two resistors and a capacitor inside the transmission computer. The symptoms are of several types. The car "S" light or "D4" is on (just stays on D4 no matter what gear is selected) or blinking and the transmission won't shift into any gears or sometimes stuck on a certain gear. The trouble codes could be 1,2,7,8,9,15 or None. Shifter interlock control unit buzzes. When the driver steps on the gas the rpm goes high but the car refuses to move at the expected speed. By resetting the TCU, either by removing the fuse for a certain period or by disconnecting the negative battery for 5 to 10 seconds will eliminate the problem, but only temporarily.

TCU/TCM Fix

The resistors R41, R42, R43, are overheated or burned and capacitors C27, C28, C32, C33, C5leaking or shorted. Some resistors will be burned off to the point where no one can determine the values. A common sense approach is to consult a working TCU and read the color code on the resistors or start with the highest resistance and go down. Find the best wattage resistor or the best voltage capacitor that can fit.

The problem originates with the electrolytic capacitors leaking. Often, the capacitor short circuits frying other components such as your resistor. Another words, the burned resistor is a result of another component failure, namely the capacitor. The fix is to replace the bad parts. See the values below.

Parts values: R41 is most likely 15 Ohms; R42 is 15 Ohms,

both appears to look like a 1/4 to 1/2 Watt; Capacitor C28 105`C 220uF 35V Nichicon H9146. Replace all of them or else the problem may return. If the problem returns, it's likely not your solenoids, but the parts on the circuit board.

sample: Before it was new and now it has fried.

generation Accords.

Maintenance Schedule Info: For the first, second and third

Replace the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles or every two years, which ever comes first, using DEXTRON II ATF Premium Formula ATF (2.5quarts). Under harsh conditions the ATF is service twice as often. All are a recommendation of the service manual. Harsh conditions are classified as towing, stop and go traffic, extreme climates, and extreme hill climbing. The Honda ATF-Z1 is recommended as source for premium fluid with smoother shift and specifically design for certain components inside the transmission. Sold only at dealers or from websites. Search for "ATF-Z1" or "08200-9001"
Current price comparison: DEXTRON II,III ATF is 3.3USD

per quart, Honda ATF-Z1 is 5.176USD per quart. A complete fluid overhaul would require about 10 quarts or more. (A simple drain and refill, maybe about 2-1/2 to 4 quarts.)
Author recommends ATF-Z1 to protect from harsh shifting in the future: I believe it may be possible that the generic aftermarket ATF can cause the clutch to change in a negative way (often permanently) when the owner uses the generic aftermarket ATF. The symptom is a harsh shifting that many people have been complaining about. And when the owner begins to change back to using the genuine ATF the harsh shift only improves very little and the harsh shift doesn't go away. After switching to the ATF-Z1, only time will tell as the genuine fluid begin to leach into the clutch and replaces itself with the new ATF-Z1 completely. If the generic ATF is truely a real problem then Hondas are pretty picky about fluids, just as the power steering is also picky about its power steering fluid.

Won't shift and no "D4" or "S-light":

The electronic solenoid valve will likely need to be removed and cleaned if there are no diagnostic light and the transmission shows the symptoms above. The solenoids may be restricted with metal particles or debris causing shift malfunctions. The old fluid should then be removed and inspected for dark color and debris then replaced with a Honda ATF (using the recommended fluid or the Honda ATF-Z1.) This section will hopefully point you to a TCU, thermostat, TW sensor or a valve body or a solenoid problem. If there are no diagnostic light and the car doesn't move on the right gears or does not shift into first, second, third,

fourth or reverse gear, inspect the two Shift Control Solenoid Valve (A,B) (location 2) which is located a feet below the two Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve (A,B) (location 1) in the circled areas on the image above, near the bottom of the radiator.

The solenoid assembly can be removed with a ratchet and a 10mm socket and the inlet and outlet of the assembly cleaned with a carburetor cleaner while engaging the solenoid with a battery. The gasket can cleaned with soap and water (DO NOT SOAK in solvent cleaners) and be reused but you should check for leaks after having shifted thru all the gears and have test driven.

Troubleshooting: Connecting the battery to the solenoid test. The solenoid produces a click when battery voltage is applied to the terminal 1 and/or 2 while the

solenoids are still attached to the transmission. The same click should occur under fluid pressure. If they don't work under pressure then they need replacing.

Troubleshooting: Wiring. To troubleshoot the solenoid wirings see Troubleshooting: Proper operation and check whether the solenoids are clicking okay. If not, then the proper way to check for a faulty wiring is to check for the solenoid resistance at the TCU harness and ground. How to do this? Read the wire color on the solenoid. Go to and disconnect the TCU wire harness at the TCU. Locate that wire color. Measure for the resistance to ground. The resistance should show (correction:) 12-24 Ohms.

Troubleshooting: Resistance test. Measure the solenoid's resistance using an Ohmmeter. Their resistance should be between 12 to 24 Ohms. If their resistance are not within the spec then they need replacing.

Troubleshooting: Thermostat. If the thermostat temperature is too low the car will refuse to shift because the temperature sensor (TW sensor) tells the TCU not to shift on a cold motor. To troubleshoot, try a hotter temperature thermostat, check the resistance of the TW sensor or check for low coolant.

Troubleshooting: Proper operation. Warm up the transmission after a drive and put the car into reverse and you should hear or feel a click on one of the Shift Control Solenoid Valve. Put the car in neutral will feel another click. Put it in D and another click is heard or felt, except it will be

felt on the stethoscope.

other

shift

solenoid.

Use

mechanic's

The activation of the solenoid is triggered after receiving signals from each sensor fed into the TCU. A disconnected TCU will still allow the car to move but will do so in 4th gear.

Troubleshooting: Checking the solenoid and TCU for proper function.

Tip: The proper way to test the solenoid function is to do a pressure drop test on the selected solenoid pressure ports (see "Troubleshooting the solenoid and the modulator fluid pressure" several paragraphs below.)

To troubleshoot, a current measurement can be taken. What this does is attach an ammeter at the solenoid connector and observe the reading for trouble. If there are no ammeter a test light is fine if you just want to know if the TCU is putting out the right power to the solenoids at the right time. The driving test results should point to a malfunctioning TCU, or PGM-FI problem based on how the gear engages and the activity on the ammeter. It can even point you to an external problem such as a bad thermostat or a low coolant level. Look for the following when operating the ammeter:
The gear should shift when the reading in the ammeter or the test lights comes on. To find out when the readings is expected to come on, see below: 1. How the second gear engages: The second gear engages when solenoid B is on and solenoid Ais on. When the solenoid is off fluid is restricted from flowing back into the oil (fluid) pan. 2. How the third gear engages: The third gear engages when solenoid B is off but the solenoid A is on. This engages the 2-3 shift valve, thereby supplying the third clutch with pressure.

A troubleshooting tool called an AMP connector (left.) (Right) the ammeter on the solenoid helps determine whether the TCU is providing the right current at every shift stage which may help locate an intermittent faulty TCU or a faulty solenoid circuit. A test light can be used in their place.

The solenoid must be able to restrict the flow of fluid when it is off. If the solenoid is old or dirty it may not have the ability to stop fluid, therefore may not have the capacity to control the 2-3 shift valve correctly, in this case slipping on 3rd and sometimes fourth. But keep in mind that if there are debris suspended in the fluid the debris may clog the 23 shift valve or the modulator valve causing the same symptoms.

Enlarge
Shift solenoid valve Honda Accord 4 Cylinder 1990-1997, Honda Odyssey 1995-1997, Honda Prelude 19921997 Notice that the pintle tips are slightly worn, but [not] (edit 3-19-07) enough to be a concern. The job of the pintle is to block or pass the fluid under pressure and/or in motion.

possible scenarios: The modulator valve (which hydraulically feeds the solenoids) may be stuck open, flooding the solenoids with more fluid than they can exhaust. The solenoids may also be restricted with metal particles. The symptoms are erratic shifts, no kickdown, wrong gear starts, early shifts, skips second on medium to full throttle, or skips 3rd. To troubleshoot, follow the test below. Other

Secondary valve body: The secondary valve body is located inside the transmission. The modulator valve maintains line pressure for the shift and lockup solenoid valves.

Troubleshooting the solenoid and the modulator fluid pressure: Step 1. Attach a 0-100 psi pressure gauge to shift solenoid A and B for the modulator pressure ports.Place shift lever in

park and start the engine. Check the pressure on both parts. It should be 70-95 psi. If it is over 95 psi the modulator valve is stuck.

Line pressure testing: Remove the bolt and attach a pressure gauge. The modulator valve maintains line pressure from the

regulator, to the pressure to shift control solenoid valves.

If there is no pressure or low pressure at the line pressure port then the ATF strainer is clogged, the pressure regulator is stuck or oil pump worn or binding.
Step 2. With the engine running connect one end of a

jumper lead to the positive terminal of the battery and the other end to BOTH solenoid terminals in the connector. The pressure should drop quickly to under 6 psi. If the pressure is above 6 psi or drops slowly, replace the shift solenoids. See Acura, Honda TSB # 226 for details.

Visual Troubleshooting: Checking fluid level.

Check the fluid level with the engine at normal operating temperature and parked on a level ground. Shut off the engine then remove the dipstick (yellow loop) from the transmission and wipe it with a clean cloth and insert the dipstick all the way down but don't screw in. The fluid level should be between the lower and upper marks.

Visual Troubleshooting: Checking fluid condition.

Drain the fluid and inspect the fluid color or for any small suspended particles. Inspect the magnetic pickup on the drain bolt. If there are suspended particles and the magnet has picked up more debris than it can hold then there could be an internal seized valve problem. If there are debris or the fluid color is black then the old fluid should be removed and replaced.

How to remove the 92transmission.

93 (or 90-91) Accord automatic

Tools required. Ratchet, a 17mm deep hexagon, a extension, 10mm box wrench. a hammer. A transmission jack or normal 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets. Socket Large flat head screw driver. A punch and several jacks, a 120-lb hoist. Steps: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Remove the hub cap but put the tire and nuts back in. Punch out the spindle nut lock and loosen the spindle nut. Raise and support the vehicle and block the tires. Drain the transmission. Remove the all the damper fork nuts and all the brake hose nuts on the damper fork and the on the shock absorber. 6. Remove the damper fork. 7. Remove the driver side and passenger side front suspension flange nut inside the engine bay and slide the upper arm out. 8. Read more...

Troubleshooting:
Troubleshooting: On this page are several troubleshooting

icons . Run the troubleshooting steps that most likely fit your issues. The diagnostic trouble codes can be retrieved.
Retrieving the diagnostic trouble codes by jumping the two terminals connector (blue) and count the number of flashing codes on your instrument gauge.

1. Make sure that the 'S' or 'D4' shifter status light on the instrument panel lights up for at least two seconds, or blinks after the key is turned on. 2. Turn the key off. 3. Jump the two 'Service Check Connector ' A, B pins together and turn the key to ON (II.) 4. Watch the 'S' or 'D4' light for flashes.

If no problem exists, the light won't flash. If a problem exists, the light will give you either short, or long and short flashes. Short flashes are a 'ones' digit of either a one or a two digit trouble code. Long flashes are the 'tens' digit of a two digit code. Short flashes are about a half second long, and long flashes last about a second and a half. There is about a one second 'OFF' pause between each code. All codes will be shown in sequence, lowest number first, up to the highest number. The sequence will repeat as long as the key is on and the connector is jumped together." 5. Turn the key off. Remove the two AMP male connectors (or jump tool) from the 'Service Check Connector ' pins.

*Different models use different codes: The differences are listed below: 13. Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted. 14. Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted. 15. Kickdown switch circuit shorted.

92 Accord ECU Fuse (7.5A) Reset Location

NC/NM speed sensor, code 9/15

Symptoms of a faulty NM speed sensor: Located at the end (passenger side) of the transmission on some models, check for code 15 or transmission jerks hard when shifting. Symptoms of a faulty NC speed sensor is the lock-up clutch does not engage. The NM or NC speed sensor (code 9) should be within 400-600 Ohms at 20-degrees C. If they are not within spec replace them. If they are within spec check for a possible short to ground but first unplug the harnesses at the TCU.

How to replace the NC speed sensor: 1. To locate the NC speed sensor on the back of the transmission follow two wires connected to the sensor. The sensor is located on the transmission between the engine firewall and the transmission towards the tire's mud guard on the 90-93 Accord. The NC speed sensor appears to look like a fuel injector (not the best of description.) 2. Reach inside with a 10 mm socket wrench and unbolt 1 bolt that holds the speed sensor in place. 3. Carefully twist the speed sensor as you pull it out. 4. Replace the O-ring. How to replace the NM speed sensor: 1. To locate the NM speed sensor on the front of the transmission follow two wires connected to the sensor. The sensor is located on the transmission between the engine radiator and the transmission towards the tire's mud guard on the 90-93 Accord. The NC speed sensor appears to look like a fuel injector (not the best of description.) 2. Reach inside with a 10 mm socket wrench and unbolt 1 bolt that holds the speed sensor in place. 3. Carefully twist the speed sensor as you pull it out. 4. Replace the O-ring.

Author's tip on the NM/NC sensors: Usually, these sensors can pick up a lot of metal particles or metal dusts which can magnetically pile on top of the sensor surroundings. On some vehicle, the control unit simply won't function properly and the

car can jerk harshly. On these cases, I simply remove the sensor then wipe and wash out the metal debris and reinstall. I then reset the computer. Everything would work as it should. The buildup of materials simply won't let the sensor read.

Solutions 1 and 2
Solution 1:

The solution is to replace the TCU/TCM (Automatic Transmission Control Unit, aka Automatic TransmissionControl Module) or see the tutorial on how to replace the blown resistors and the capacitors with a better value if the symptoms points to a TCU problem. Replacing the TCU with the same model number may blow the same circuit or component inside the TCU unless a corrected TCU is purchased. The improved TCU is the one you should install in your vehicle. We don't have the part number data on all the improved TCU. Please contact your local dealer and obtain the Honda Technical Service Bulletin to find out which part is meant for your car.
Solution 2:

1. If there are no diagnostic trouble codes, most likely the shift valve solenoid is stuck, weak or needs cleaning or replacement (as outlined above.) 2. If there are no diagnostic trouble codes and the line pressure confirms so, then a valve body is stuck. 3. On some vehicles, replacing the main relay will also solve the "won't shift and blinking D4 light" problem. See bottom of page.

TCU PARTS INFORMATION Automatic Transmission Control Unit

Built Location

(Redesigned) Part Number for 90 Accord P/N 28100-PX4H/C 3523933 932

Japan-built EX:

Japan-built LX & P/N 28100-PX4H/C 3520269 DX: 922 US-built EX: US-built LX & DX: P/N 28100-PX0H/C 3521796 932 P/N 28100-PX0H/C 3521788 922

How to replace the TCM/TCU: Steps (edit 3-30-07): 1. Locate the passenger foot rest carpet and peel it back. If there is a clip, pry them out.

2. Remove the large steel cover bolts using a 10-mm deep socket wrench with extension. 3. Disconnect the harness connector by inserting a flat head screw driver and unlock the clip and slide the harness connector outward.

You can also press the tab on the connector by hand and pull the harness straight out. Do not pull on the wires. 4. If there are bolts holding the ECU, remove them in order to remove the TCU. The TCU/TCM is the one on the right. 5. Remove the bolts holding the TCU. 6. Open the TCU with a phillips screw driver and inspect for sign of burned or leaking parts.

Tip: The second generation Acura Legend TCU is also located in this area. The TCU box is marked "A/T.

Idle Problems? Read this first.

Idle issues are one of the most common problems that we see (this is because there are MANY things that can cause a poor idle). I have left this Sticky unlocked so that others may contribute their experience to this thread. Please keep your replies relevant to the topic. Please do not post your idle problems here. If you have an idle problem that is not cured by following this sticky, please create a new thread and be sure to tell us what you have already done. Please post onlysolutions to idle problems that are not listed in this sticky. IDLE PROBLEMS First things first: If your idle problems have developed after you have performed some manner of work on the vehicle, it is a good idea to start with the area where you have been working (i.e. you just changed the timing belt and now you have an erratic idle. Because of this it would be a good idea to make sure that the timing is correct and all vacuum lines are intact and connected properly before moving on and trying other things). Obviously if you have a Check Engine Light, start by pulling the code. This will almost

certainly give you a good place to start. Also, I have seen many threads that advise people to change the idle screw setting. Very, very rarely does this screw actually require adjustment. Although you may get a better idle by adjusting this screw, you are usually only covering-up the real problem that has caused the idle issue. The following items should be checked first: 1)Worn, dirty, faulty, or incorrectly gapped spark plugs 2)Worn/loose distributor cap and/or rotor 3)Old spark plug wires 4)Clogged/dirty air filter 5)Clogged/dirty fuel filter 6)Vacuum leak (check all lines, the throttle body gasket, and the intake manifold gasket) 7)Vacuum lines not connected properly 8)Incorrect ignition timing 9)Air in coolant passages If the above items are in good shape, and the problem persists, try these: 1)Remove & clean the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve. This valve is located on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Looks like this: EGR Pic 2)Remove & clean the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). This is located on the plenum of the intake manifold. Looks like this: IACV pic 3)Remove and clean the throttle body 4)Remove, inspect, and clean the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (Thermo valve How-To) If the problem is still there: 1)Change the primary O2 sensor (Oxygen Sensor) 2)Test the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). 3)Check fuel pressure at the rail. If the pressure is below 35psi, check/replace the fuel pressure regulator. If the regulator is good, fuel pump may need replacement. On rare/extreme occasions the following items can also cause idle problems: 1)EGR passageways in the head/intake are clogged 2)Fuel injectors are dirty/worn 3)Mechanical failure/damage in the valvetrain (broken spring, bent valve, etc) 4)Poor compression due to worn/broken piston rings 5)Valve adjustment too tight NOTE: If you have changed your fuel injectors to larger aftermarket units, idle problems can arise from having too-large injectors. This is due to the pulse width becoming too short for the injectors to operate properly