Easy Plumbing Repairs

EASY
plumbing
REPAIRS
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Kitchen Faucet Repairs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Kitchen Sink and Drain Repairs . . . . . . . 9
Toilet, Tub and Shower Repairs . . . . . . 21
Leak-proof Plumbing Pipe Repairs. . . 41
Main Floor Drain Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Water Softener Repairs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
The Family Handyman is a registered trademark of The Readers Digest Association, Inc.
2011 Home Service Publications Inc., Greendale, WI 53129
EASY PLUMBING REPAIRS
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Repair an outdoor faucet
3
REMOVE and replace rubber washer
on the stem end. If there are rubber
O-rings on stem, replace these as well.
2
PULL stem out of faucet. For
removal, some stems have to be
turned so a key lines up with a slot;
reattach handle to turn and pull stem.
1
UNSCREW handle and remove pack-
ing nut. Hold faucet steady while
loosening the nut to avoid twisting the
interior pipe. Even hard copper pipe
can be twisted.
4
LUBRICATE working parts
of stem assembly with
heat-proof faucet grease.
Reassemble faucet.
3
USE seat wrench to
remove worn valve seat.
New seat must match old one
exactly in diameter, height
and number of threads.
2
REMOVE worn washer
and replace it with cor-
rect type: flat or beveled. New
washer should fit snugly with-
out being forced.
1
REMOVE screw holding
handle, then loosen and
remove packing nut. Remove
stem assembly.
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PACKING
NUT
SEAT WRENCH
VALVE SEAT
HEAT-PROOF
GREASE
RUBBER
WASHER
PACKING
NUT
Repair a washer-type faucet
KITCHEN FAUCET REPAIRS
REPAI R A WASHER-TYPE FAUCET; REPAI R AN OUTDOOR FAUCET; REPAI R A ROTARY BALL FAUCET

ater fow and tenperature n a rotary ba
faucet are controed by a hoow ba that
rotates n a socket. Deta and Feeress are
two of the na|or brands. Your faucet nay have a brass or
pastc ba. Both work we, athough the ongastng
staness stee ba cones wth nost repar kts. We rec
onnend that you buy a repar kt that ncudes the ba,
sprngs, seats and Orngs for the spout, as we as a sna
repar too, for about Sl5. Wth ths kt, you' be prepared
for anost any repar.
lf water s eakng out around the base of the hande,
you nay be abe to fx the eak by renovng the hande
(Fhoto l) and snpy tghtenng the ad|ustng rng sghty.
Turn t cockwse wth the spanner too ncuded n the
repar kt. lf the faucet drps fron the end of the spout,
repace the seats and sprngs (Fhoto 4). To stop eaks
fron the base of the spout, see "Fepar a eaky faucet
spout," p. 8.
Feassenby s straghtforward. Drop the sprngs n the
recesses and press the rubber seats over the top wth your
fngertp. Then agn the groove n the ba wth the pn n
the socket and drop n the ba. Agn the ug on the pastc
can wth the notch n the vave body and set t over the
ba. Thread on the cap wth the ad|ustng rng and tghten
t wth the sp|ont pers. Now you can turn on the water
to check for eaks. lf water eaks fron around the ba sten,
use the spanner too to tghten the ad|ustng rng unt
the eak stops. Fepace the
hande and you're done.
HANDLE
CAM
PACKING
SEATS
SPRINGS
SPOUT
STAINLESS
STEEL BALL
SCREW
COVER
HANDLE
SCREW
CAP WITH
ADJUSTING
RING
Repair a
rotary ball
faucet
Follow these basics
for all faucet repairs
4
LIFT out the two rubber seats and springs with a screwdriver.
Make note of the orientation of the tapered spring and install
the new springs and seats the same way. Reassemble the faucet.
3
LIFT off the plastic cam and packing. Lift out the ball and
inspect it. Replace the ball if its scratched, cracked or vis-
ibly worn.
2
UNSCREW the cap by turning it counterclockwise with a
slip-joint pliers. 1
LIFT the handle and pry off the decorative cover to expose
the Allen screw. Turn the screw counterclockwise until its
loose enough to lift the handle up from the stem.
PACKING
BALL
CAM
CAP WITH
ADJUSTING
RING
LARGE SLIP-JOINT
PLIERS (TAPE PROTECTS
FAUCET FINISH)
AERATOR
ALLEN
WRENCH
SEAT SPRING
ALLEN
SCREW
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REPAI R A ROTARY BALL FAUCET; REPAI R A CARTRI DGE-STYLE FAUCET

any faucet brands
use a cartr dge of
sone type. We show
how to repace a Moen cartrdge,
but the process s snar for other
brands. To stop drps at the spout
or correct probens wth hot and
cod nxng, renove the cartrdge
and ether repace the Orngs on
the cartrdge f they're worn or
repace the entre cartrdge. Take
the cartrdge to the hone center or
hardware store to fnd a repace
nent (Sl0 to Sl5).
Fhotos l - 6 show how to renove
the cartrdge. Fepacenent car
trdges for Moen faucets ncude a
pastc spanner cap that aows you
to twst and oosen the cartrdge to
nake t easer to pu out (Fhoto 5).
Don't be surprsed f the car
trdge seens stuck.
lt nay take consderabe force to pu
t out. Feay stubborn cartrdges
nay requre the use of a speca
cartrdgepung too. Moen's ver
son costs about Sl5 and s avaabe
at nost hone centers.
Feassenbe the faucet n the
reverse order. Fu the sten up
before nsertng the cartrdge. You
nay have to twst the cartrdge
sghty to ne t up for the brass
retaner cp. Use the pastc span
ner cap or the tps of a needenose
pers to rotate the cartrdge. 8de
the brass cp nto the sots n the
vave body to hod the cartrdge n
pace. Look for the sna notch on
top of the sten and rotate the sten
unt the notch faces you (Fhoto
4). lnsta the renanng parts and
reattach the han
de. The drectons
that cone wth the
sten w hep or
ent you here. Then
test the faucet. lf the hot and cod
water are reversed, snpy renove
the hande, done assenby and
hande adapter and rotate the
sten l80 degrees.
HANDLE
CAP
HANDLE
SCREW
HANDLE
DOME
ASSEMBLY
SCREW
HANDLE
ADAPTER
PIVOT STOP
RETAINER
NUT
WASHER
RETAINER CLIP
CARTRIDGE
SPOUT
TEMPERATURE
INDICATOR
O-RINGS
Repair a
cartridge-
style faucet
5
LOOSEN the cartridge by slipping the
plastic spanner cap (included with
the new cartridge) over the cartridge and
twisting it back and forth.
4
PRY out the brass retainer clip with
the tip of a screwdriver. Grab the clip
with a pliers and pull it the rest of the
way out to avoid losing it.
3
REMOVE the retainer nut by turning
it counterclockwise with a large slip-
joint pliers.
2
UNSCREW the dome assembly under
the handle. Then unscrew the metal
handle adapter and lift it off. Lift off the
plastic pivot stop.
1
PRY off the handle cap (gently) with
a knife. Turn the Allen screw coun-
terclockwise to remove it and lift off the
handle.
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Find the right replacement parts
6
GRAB the cartridge stem with a pli-
ers and pull it straight up and out.
Replace worn parts and reassemble the
faucet in the reverse order.
SPANNER
CAP (TWIST
BACK AND
FORTH)
NOTCH
RETAINER
CLIP
CARTRIDGE
HANDLE
ADAPTER
PHILLIPS
SCREWDRIVER
ALLEN
WRENCH
SET
RETAINER NUT
HANDLE
CAP
ALLEN
SCREW
PIVOT STOP
DOME ASSEMBLY
REPAI R A CARTRI DGE-STYLE FAUCET; REPAI R A CERAMI C DI SK FAUCET

eranc dsc vaves are snpy another type of
cartrdge. Dscs nsde the cartrdge contro
the water fow. Ths type of vave s sturdy and
reabe and rarey needs fxng. ln fact, nany nanufactur
ers offer a fetne guarantee on the cartrdge. lf yours
s danaged, check wth the nanufacturer to see f t's
covered by a warranty. Leaks can resut fron fauty rub
ber seas or a cracked dsc nsde the cartrdge. 8nce t's
dffcut to spot a cracked dsc, and dsc cartrdge repace
nents are very expensve (S20 to S50), t's best to start
by repacng the seas and reassenbng the faucet. Then
f the faucet st eaks, renove the dsc cartrdge and take
t to the store to order a repacenent.
Eary versons
of ceranc dsc
faucets nay
be nore frage
and can crack f sub|ected to a bast of
pressurzed ar. That's why t's nportant to eave
the faucet open as you turn the water back on. Ths aows
ar trapped n the nes to escape. When the water runs
snoothy, t's safe to turn the faucet off. Manufacturers
have nproved the strength of ceranc dscs on newer
faucets to wthstand ar basts, as we as abrasve debrs
that nay get dsodged fron the nsde of ppes.
HANDLE
CAP
SCREW
COVER
CARTRIDGE
SCREWS
CERAMIC DISC
CARTRIDGE
CARTRIDGE
SEALS
PLASTIC
PLATE
O-RINGS
CAP CLIPS
SPOUT
ALLEN
SCREW
Repair a
ceramic
disc
faucet
Leaks around the base of the spout are
caused by worn Orngs ocated under
the spout. A that's usuay requred to
access these Orngs for repacenent
s to wgge and pu up on the spout
to renove t (Fhoto l). Dependng on
your faucet, you' aso have to renove
the hande and other parts to access
the spout. Be persstent. The spout
nay be a tte stubborn. 8pout Orng
kts are avaabe for nany faucets,
or you can take the od Orngs to the
hardware store or punbng suppy
store and natch then up wth new
ones. Fenenber to pck up a sna
toothpastetype tube of punber's
grease whe you're there.
ln Fhoto l, you can see the dverter
vave, whch contros water to the
sprayer. Ther appearance vares con
sderaby anong brands, but you' usu
ay fnd then under the spout. lf your
sprayer sn't workng propery, frst
cean t n vnegar or snpy repace
t (S5 S22). lf ths doesn't work, the
dverter vave nay be cogged. lf t
doesn't snpy pu out, contact the
nanufacturer or ask a knowedgeabe
saesperson for hep wth ceanng t.
1
REMOVE the handle and cartridge.
Twist and pull up on the spout to
remove it and expose the O-ring seals.
2
SLIP the tip of a screwdriver under
the O-rings to slide them out of
the groove. Install the new O-rings,
lubricate them with plumbers grease
and reinstall the spout.
NEW
O-RINGS
4
LIFT out the plastic plate (on some faucets) and replace the
O-rings under it. Inspect the holes in the faucet body and
clean them out if theyre clogged.
3
INSPECT the cartridge for mineral buildup and carefully
clean it out. Then replace the rubber seals on the underside.
2
REMOVE the screws that hold the disc cartridge to the fau-
cet body and lift out the cartridge. 1
PRY off the decorative screw cover with your fingernail or
the tip of a knife. Unscrew the handle screw by turning
it counterclockwise with an Allen wrench. Lift off the handle.
Unscrew or unclip the cap.
CAP
ALLEN
WRENCH
SET
CERAMIC DISC
CARTRIDGE
CERAMIC DISC
CARTRIDGE
RUBBER
SEALS
O-RING
SEALS
ALLEN
SCREW
Repair a leaky faucet spout
DIVERTER
VALVE
SPOUT
O-RINGS
REPAIR A CERAMIC DISK FAUCET; REPAIR A LEAKY FAUCENT SPOUT; REPLACE THE DRAIN ASSEMBLY FOR A KITCHEN SINK
3
HOLD the waste tee alongside the tail-
piece about 1-1/2 in. below the top of
the trap. Mark the tailpiece 1/2 in. below
the top of the tee. Cut both tailpieces to
the same length and install them.
2
SLIDE the trap arm into the adapter.
Then attach the trap and slide the
arm in or out to position the trap directly
under the tailpiece. You may need to cut
the arm or add an extender.
1
ATTACH the tailpiece to the basket
strainer, but dont fully tighten it
yet; youll have to remove and cut it later.

one eaks can't be stopped
wth straghtenng or tght
enng. 8trpped nuts won't
tghten and od washers won't sea
because they're stff and dstorted.
You coud get new nuts, washers
or dran parts. 8nce pastc ppe s
so nexpensve and easy to nsta,
the snart, reabe fx s a whoe
new dran assenby. You can buy
everythng you need at hone cen
ters for Sl0 to Sl5. Kts for sde out
et assenbes (ke the one shown

here) or center outet assenbes
(where the trap s beneath the center
of the snk) contan nost of the essen
ta parts. But you nght aso need:
Long tapeces (Fhoto l). The

tapeces that cone wth kts are
often ony a coupe of nches ong.
A trap arn extender (Fhoto 2).

The arn that cones wth the kt
nay not reach the dranppe that
protrudes fron the wa.
A dshwasher wye that has a con

necton for your dshwasher hose.
STRAINER
LOCKNUT
RUBBER
WASHER
TAILPIECE
WASHER
TAILPIECE
WASHER
TAILPIECE
TAILPIECE
WASTE TEE
TRAP ARM
TRAP
EXTENDER
SLIP NUT
TAILPIECE
CARDBOARD
WASHER
WASTE ARM
1-1/2"
ADAPTER
1-1/2"
Replace the
drain assembly
for a kitchen sink
KITCHEN SINK AND DRAIN REPAIRS
4
SLIP the waste arm onto the second tail-
piece, make it extend about 3/4 in. into
the tee and mark it. Cut and install it.
5
LOOSEN the slip nuts and slide the tee up
or down so the waste arm slopes slightly
down toward the tee. Tighten all the nuts.
A dsposer kt that aows the waste

arn to connect to a garbage dsposer.
G?FKFJ ( , deta the whoe repace
nent process. Here are sone ponters
for a snooth pro|ect:
You' have to cut a few ppes: both

tapeces, the waste arn and naybe
the trap arn. A fnetooth hacksaw
works best.
When n doubt, nark and cut ppes a

bt ong. Better to cut twce than cut
too short and nake an extra trp to
the hardware store.
Don't forget to nsert tapece wash

ers (Fhoto l). Other |onts requre
cone washers. The ony |ont wthout a
washer s the ground |ont at the trap.
Assenbe everythng oosey unt the

whoe assenby s conpete. Then
tghten a the sp nuts.
Handtghten the sp nuts. lf any

|onts eak when you test the new
assenby, tghten then sghty wth
sp|ont pers.
When you're a done, test the assen

by for eaks.
TAILPIECE
WASTE ARM
WASTE
TEE
WASTE
ARM
WASTE
TEE
WASTE
TEE
SLIP
JOINT
SLIP
NUTS
GROUND
JOINT
CONE
WASHER
TRAP
TRAP
ARM
T i p :
Brush a little Teflon pipe thread sealant on
male threads. It lubricates the threads and
makes slip nuts much easier to tighten.
Check the label to make sure the sealant is
safe for plastic.
REPLACE THE DRAI N ASSEMBLY FOR A KI TCHEN SI NK; I NSTALL A NEW SI NK AND FAUCET
Install a new
R
eady to replace your worn-out sink and faucet? Here
youll learn how to do just that. This stainless steel sink
has an extra-large bowl to accommodate big pots and
is made of heavy 18-gauge stainless steel with a well-engineered
clamping system. This deluxe sink cost $600, but top-quality
sinks with fewer features are available for as little as $200.
While the sink is out, its an easy job to replace the faucet. The
faucet shown here cost about $150. Similar faucets range from
$130 to $300.
Installing a new sink and faucet is easier than ever thanks to
the simple-to-cut-and-assemble white plastic (PVC) drain parts
(Photo 7) and nearly foolproof flexible water supply tubes (Photo
6). Some plumbing experience would be helpful, but even with-
out it you can replace your sink and faucet in less than a day using
a few basic tools that you probably already own. Youll need large
groove-joint pliers for the drain fittings (Photo 1), a fine-tooth
saw to cut the plastic pipe, a set of open-end wrenches or two
adjustable wrenches to loosen and tighten the supply tubes, and
hex head nut drivers for the sink clips and the clamp on the dish-
washer drain. If you have a plastic laminate countertop and need
to enlarge the hole for the new sink, youll also need a jigsaw.
Buy a new sink the same size
as the old
Measure your old sink. The standard size is 33 x 22 in. and about
7 in. deep. If yours is this size, youll have no problem nding a new
one to t the same hole. If you want to install a sink thats larger or
deeper than your current one, rst check the cabinet width below
to make sure itll t. Then decide how to enlarge the hole. If your
countertop is stone, tile, solid surface (Corian, for example) or metal,
you may have to hire a pro to enlarge the hole. If its wood or plastic
laminate, enlarge the hole yourself with a jigsaw.
Tips for removing the old sink
Getting the old sink out is usually harder than putting the new
one in. Old plumbing parts are likely to be corroded, and the sink
may be glued to the counter with caulk or caked-on gunk. Sinks
are mounted in several ways, but here are a few general tips for
removing yours:
N Place a bucket under the trap to catch wastewater while you
loosen the slip-joint nuts.
sink and
faucet
1
Remove the trap and other drain parts by loosening the
slip-joint nuts with large groove-joint pliers or a pipe
wrench. Disconnect the disposer from the sink by sticking a
large screwdriver or disposer wrench into the ring near the
drain and twisting it counterclockwise. Close the water valves
and disconnect the tubes leading to the faucet. Hold the shutoff
valve steady with one wrench while you loosen the supply tube
nut with a second wrench. Remove any clips holding the sink in
and lift the sink out.
FAUCET
SUPPLY
TUBE
DISHWASHER
DRAIN
SHUTOFF
VALVE
P-TRAP
GROOVE-
JOINT PLIERS
3
Set your new sink in the countertop to check the t, then
trace around it with a pencil. Enlarge the hole if necessary.
Remove the sink and apply a bead of mildew-resistant tub-and-
tile caulk just to the inside of the pencil line. Set the sink back
in the hole and use a nut driver to tighten the clips that hold
the sink down. Tighten the clips just enough to close the gap
between the sink and countertop. Dont overtighten. Clean up
the excess caulk with a damp cloth.
2
Mount the new faucet to the new sink. Follow the instruc-
tions provided with your faucet. Protect your countertop
with cardboard.
4
Roll plumbers putty into a 1/2-in.-diameter rope and place
it around each drain opening. Press the top half of the
basket strainer assembly down into the plumbers putty on one
side. On the other, press the disposer drain down into the putty.
*
Parts and supplies
N Plumbers putty ($2)
N Tub-and-tile caulk ($3)
N Two basket strainer assemblies (only one if youre install-
ing a disposer; $13 each)
Youll need the following 1-1/2-in. PVC drain parts:
N One P-trap assembly ($5)
N One end or center outlet waste kit ($5)
N Two sink tailpieces ($2 each)only one if youre installing
a disposer. If you have a dishwasher and no disposer, get
a special dishwasher tailpiece ($3) that has a tube to
connect the dishwasher drain hose.
N One special disposer waste arm ($3.50), if you have
a disposer.
N Two flexible water supply tubes for kitchen sinks ($4
each). Match the nuts on the ends to the threads on your
faucet and shutoff valves. Also measure to determine the
right length. Buy everything at a home center, hardware
store or plumbing supplier.
NEW FAUCET
NEW SINK
CARDBOARD
SINK CLIPS
TUB-
AND-TILE
CAULK
PLUMBERS
PUTTY
DISPOSER
DRAIN
BASKET
DRAIN
I NSTALL A NEW SI NK AND FAUCET
7
Loosely assemble the new
PVC drain ttings. Hold
up and mark parts needing to
be cut. Then saw them with a
ne-tooth wood saw or hack-
saw. Slope the horizontal pipes
down slightly toward the drain
in the wall. Hand-tighten all
the ttings and turn the nuts
an additional quarter turn with
large groove-joint pliers.
N Remove the disposer (Photo 1). Place paint cans and boards
under the disposer to support it as it comes loose.
N Use a pair of pipe wrenches to separate drain parts that wont
yield to large groove-joint pliers. Dont worry about damaging the
pipes; youll be replacing them with new plastic parts anyway.
N Add shutoff valves if your hot and cold water supply pipes
dont have them.
N Working carefully, slice the caulk around the sink with a utility
knife, then slip a stiff putty knife under the sinks lip and gently
pry up to loosen it. On some old sinks, you must remove the
mounting clips from under the sink before you lift it out.
N Get help lifting out a cast iron sink.
Tips for installing the new sink
Follow the steps in Photos 2 7 to assemble, install and connect
your new sink and faucet. Some sinks, like the stainless steel sink
shown here, require clips tightened from below to hold them
in place (Photo 3). Most cast iron sinks are held in place by their
own weight and a bead of caulk. Follow the mounting instruc-
tions provided with your sink.
When youre finished with the installation, turn on the shutoff
valves and check for leaks. Then run water in both bowls and
check the drains for leaks. Most leaks can be fixed by tightening
the connection. If this doesnt work, youll have to take the leaky
joint apart and inspect it for missing or misaligned parts.
5
Assemble the undersink half of the basket strainer
assembly and tighten the large nut with groove-joint
pliers. Hold the basket with your hand to keep it from spinning.
Reassemble the disposer drain and tighten the three screws.
Clean the excess plumbers putty from around the drain open-
ings and polish the sink with a dry cloth.
6
Connect the water supply valves to the new faucet with
exible braided stainless steel sink connectors. Hand-
tighten the connections. Then turn them an additional quarter
turn with a wrench.
DISPOSER
DRAIN BASKET
STRAINER CUP
BASKET
STRAINER NUT
SINK
DRAIN
PLUGGED
WITH RAG
NEW FAUCET
WATER TUBES
WATER
PIPES WITH
SHUTOFF
VALVES
BRAIDED
STAINLESS FAUCET
CONNECTORS
HOSE FOR
PULLOUT SPOUT
SINK
TAILPIECE
PVC DISPOSER
DRAINPIPE
BAFFLE
TEE
PVC TRAP
ASSEM-
BLY
Fix a
If
you nd mysterious puddles under your kitchen sink, the
most likely suspects are the water supply lines, the drain
lines or the seal between the sink and the countertop.
But dont forget about the pullout sprayer. Sprayer leaks can fool
you because they usually occur only when the faucet is running.
There are only two xes: Either replace the spray head or both the
spray head and the hose.
First, check the spray head for leaks. Turn on the faucet and pull
out the spray head. Make sure the slide nut is tightly screwed into
the spray head (see opposite page). Check for leaks, then push the
trigger and check again. If water leaks out from under the slide nut,
remove the spray head and slide nut. Turn on the faucet and look
for leaks around the crimp sleeve. If you nd leaks around the crimp,
youll have to replace the hose and the head. If the crimp doesnt
leak, simply replace the head (Photo 1). A replacement costs $7 to
$20 at home centers and hardware stores.
If the spray head doesnt leak, grab a flashlight, turn on the
faucet and check under the sink. Give the hose a quick inspec-
tion, then examine the connection under the faucet. If you nd a
leak at the crimp, replace the hose. If the leak is coming from the
stem connection, try to tighten it. You might be able to tighten it
with small pliers, but its tight quarters under there. The best tool for
this job is a basin wrench ($16 at home centers and hardware stores).
If tightening doesnt solve the problem, replace the hose (Photo 2).
Hoses usually arent sold separately, so youll get a new spray
head, too. Some hoses have a female fitting that fits over the fau-
cet stem. Others screw into the faucet stem. Many spray head/
hose kits include an adapter so the hose can connect to male or
female threads. Also pick up a roll of pipe-thread tape ($2) and
wrap the male threads before you connect the new hose. You
dont have to turn off the water supply to replace the hose, but
make sure no one turns on the faucet while the hose is discon-
nected! Once the new hose is installed, turn on the faucet and
check for leaks.
Most spray heads and hoses are interchangeable. But some
spray heads and hoses connect differently. Home centers and
hardware stores usually carry only the standard type shown here.
If you have a different type, call a plumbing supplier or go to any
online search engine and type in the manufacturer of your faucet
followed by replacement parts.
drippy sink sprayer
2
Replace the spray head and hose by unscrewing the hose
with a basin wrench (opposite page). Feed the new hose
through the holder. Wrap male threads with pipe thread tape.
Screw the hose to the faucet stem by hand. Then tighten the
connection with the basin wrench.
1
Replace the spray head only by unscrewing the spray head
from the slide nut. Remove the washer and pry off the
C-clip with a small screwdriver or pocketknife. To install the
new head, reverse these steps.
HOSE
STEM
C-CLIP
SLIDE NUT
FAUCET
STEM
CRIMP
BASIN
WRENCH
FI X A DRI PPY SI NK SPRAYER
BASIN
WRENCH
SPRAY HEAD
WASHER
C-CLIP
SLIDE NUT
HOSE STEM
CRIMP
SLEEVE
HOLDER
HOLDER
NUT
If you get weak water flow when you turn on the faucet, dont
assume your water pressure has suddenly gone bad. You could sim-
ply have a filter screen, or aerator, thats clogged. Remove the aera-
tor as shown in the photo, rinse it out and reinstall it. If its corroded
or worn, take it to a home center and pick up a new one ($3 to $5).
Most stores have a slick gauge you can screw your old aerator onto
to determine which replacement to buy. If you cant find a replace-
ment for your aerator, soak the parts in vinegar overnight, scrub
them with an old toothbrush and reinsert into the faucet (make
sure to reassemble the parts in the same order you removed them).
WASHER
FLOW
RESTRICTOR
MIXER
BUSHING
SCREEN
OUTER
HOUSING
AERATOR
BODY
Unclog a kitchen faucet aerator
Wrap the jaws of pliers with tape to keep them from scratching
the aerator. Unscrew the aerator body from the faucet and remove
all the internal components. Clean and reassemble.
Figure A
Aerator parts
Dirt usually collects on the
mixer and the screen.
TURN
DIRECTION
ELECTRICAL
TAPE
Fix an erratic sink sprayer
Inside your faucet, theres a diverter valve, which stops the water flow to the spout and
sends it to the sprayer when you press the spray heads trigger. Here are the symptoms of
diverter trouble:
N Very little water, or none at all, comes out of the sprayer when you press the trigger.
A bad sprayer head can cause this, but more often the diverter is the culprit. To check
this, remove the spray head and turn on the faucet. If the water flow out of the hose is
weak, the diverter is to blame.
N The sprayer pulsates like a machine gun.
N Water continues to flow out of the faucet spout when youre using the sprayer.
Often, a misbehaving diverter needs only light scrubbing with a toothbrush and a good
rinse. But since removing a diverter usually requires major faucet disassembly, its best to
simply replace the diverter rather than risk taking it apart again.
Diverter styles and removal procedures differ widely. Some are small valves like the
one shown here. Others are larger cylinders that
dont look like valves at all. Some newer diverters
arent inside the faucet, but are instead connected
to the sprayer hose below. So the first step in
diverter repair is finding a diagram of your faucet.
If you cant find your owners manual, do an online
search. Type in the manufacturer of your faucet
followed by faucet parts diagram. With a little
searching, youll find an illustration showing your
faucets internal parts. Youll also find several
sources for replacement parts online. Diverters
cost from $7 to $20.
Disassemble the faucet to access
the diverter. Clean or replace the
diverter and reassemble the faucet.
DIVERTER
VALVE
Clean a stinky
disposer
I f your di sposer has
developed an odor, it
may contain bits of rot-
ted food. Heres how
to clean them out:
1. With the water running at about half
throttle, drop in orange or lemon peels.
Run the disposer for five seconds. Citric
acid from the peels softens crusty waste
and attacks smelly bacteria. Give the acid
about 15 minutes to do its work.
2. Turn on the water and the disposer
and drop in a few ice cubes. Flying shards
of ice work like a sandblaster inside
the disposer.
3. Run the water until the bowl is about
half full. Then pull the stopper and turn
on the disposer to flush it out.
Repair chipped porcelain
Bugged by the chi ps
in the porcelain finish
of your sink, washer or
refrigerator? Porcelain
touch-up glaze will hide
those blemishes on most
every surf ace except
cooktops. For a sink (or
bathtub), let the repair
dry 24 hours before use.
Most appl i ance parts
stores stock a $5 repair
kit in white but you may
need to order colors.
Prevent kitchen drains from clogging
Keep kitchen drains grease-free by pouring in a few spoonfuls of baking soda
every few weeks. Then fill the sink with hot water, remove the plug and let it
drain freely to flush
debri s. The best
way t o pr event
clogs is to limit the
amount of grease
and other sol i ds
goi ng down the
drain in the first
place.
Touch up chips and scratches in the porcelain n-
ish of appliances using a special color-matched
repair kit. Start by cleaning the surface, then use
the enclosed ne-grit sandpaper to roughen the
nish. Apply thin coats of repair uid, letting
them dry completely between coats.
PREVENT CLOGGI NG; REPAI R PORCELAI N; CLEAN A DI SPOSER; HOW TO CLEAR CLOGGED SI NK DRAI NS
If you have a garbage disposer, turn it on. If it hums but doesnt
spin, switch it off and unplug the unit. Then rotate the disposer
blades manually by inserting an Allen wrench into the hole on
the bottom of many disposers. If you have a dishwasher, tighten
a clamp over the flexible part of the drain line before plunging
the drain. This prevents dirty water from flowing back into the
dishwasher cabinet.
How to clear clogged
sink drains
A
cogged ktchen snk can wreck a perfecty
good evenng. lnstead of settng n to catch
up on the news, you' fnd yoursef starng
at a snk fu of drty, backedup water and wonderng
whether to ca n a punber (S80 to Sl20l). However,
wth two nexpensve toos and a tte practce, you can
fx ths ness n ess than an hour.
Here you' earn how to use a punger and snake to
cear up a but the nost stubborn dran cogs. Fungers
cost S4 to Sl0 at any hardware store or hone center.
Those wth arger rubber bes dever nore thrust, but
nost any stye w work for ktchen drans. Be sure t
has a stout hande so you can appy penty of force. A
snake (sonetnes caed a hand auger) costs S5 to S20,
dependng on the sze, ength and turnng nechansn.
For aaround use, we reconnend a 38n. node
that's about 20 ft. ong, ke the one n Fhoto 6, p. 20
(Sl5 at hardware stores and hone centers). lt's easy to
turn down nto the dran. But shorter, l4n. types w
work for nost cogs too. ln addton, keep severa other
tens handy-a bucket or a pastc bn that fts under
your dran, rubber goves and a reabe fashght.
With two simple tools
a plunger and a snake
you can clear 95 percent of your
stopped-up drain problems
DISPOSER
ALLEN
WRENCH
DISPOSER
UNPLUGGED
First things first
DISH-
WASHER
DRAIN
LINE
1
Hold a wet cloth tightly over one sink drain to seal it and set the plunger
over the other drain. Plunge up and down vigorously for about 20 seconds.
2
Pop the plunger off the drain on your last pull stroke in a final attempt to
break the clog free.
You can avod nost cogs by not
abusng your ktchen dran ne. Don't
overoad your dsposer wth neat; foods
hgh n starch, ke pasta, potatoes and
rce; or foods hgh n fber, ke ceery
and corn husks. Aso, run penty of cod
water down the dran and et the ds
poser catch up after every cup of food
you push nto t. Never dunp bacon
grease or coffee grounds nto the dran.
lf aowed to sette and coo, they sodfy
n the dran.
lf you foow the steps outned here
and st can't cear the bockage, don't
hestate to ca n a punber. You nay
have a cog far down the dran ne
beyond your reach, or stuck ob|ects n
the ppes.
Clear blockage with
a
plunger
One of the nost connon
causes of a cogged dran
s a cogged garbage
dsposer. lf the sde
of the snk that
has the dsposer
doesn't dran,
punge t frst
to renove the
cog or force t
down the dran.
And f you fp the
swtch to turn on
your garbage ds
poser and a you
hear s a ow hunnng sound, your
dsposer s probaby |anned. You can
usuay free t by turnng the bades
nanuay. (lf the dsposer doesn't nake
any sound when you turn t on, an nter
na breaker on the notor probaby has
trpped. Ove the dsposer a nnute to
coo off. Then press the reset button
ocated on the botton of the unt, and
turn t on agan.)
C a u t i o n :
Dont plunge or snake a drain if youve
poured drain cleaners into the sink. The
chemicals can cause serious burns if they
splash on your skin. Use drain cleaners
only if the sink is draining slowly and
not completely clogged.
SEAL
OTHER
SINK
DRAIN
HOW TO CLEAR CLOGGED SINK DRAINS
3
Loosen the slip nut on the trap arm assembly and the continuous waste tee and
wiggle the trap free. Check the waste tee and remove and clean it if its clogged.
4
Clean out any debris from the P-trap. Inspect both it and the trap arm for
cracks or weak walls. If its worn, replace it to avoid problems in the future.
5
Loosen the slip nut and slide the trap arm from the drain line stub-out. You
will likely need a pliers to remove the nut.
lf the proben sn't n the dsposer,
punge the dran. lf you have a dsh
washer, frst canp the dran hose
(photo, p. l/). Then f the snk wth 3 to
4 n. of water to ensure that the punger
seas around the dran. Hod a wet rag
tghty over the other dran openng n
doube snks or use the basket straner
to sea t (Fhoto l). Then punge away.
Fo the head of the punger nto the
water so you force water, not ar, nto
the dran. Funp vgorousy. On your ast
upstroke, pop the punger off the nouth
of the dran for extra pressure (Fhoto
2). lf the water doesn't swr straght
down the dran, contnue pungng for
severa nnutes. Fungng can be quck
and easy or t coud be a wet ness. Keep
towes handy to soak up sps.
Clean the P-trap
Cogs that occur n the Ftrap and trap
arn of the dran (Fhoto 3) nost often
occur when grease or coffee grounds
stck. lf ntensve pungng doesn't
renove t, dsassenbe and cean out the
Ftrap (l0 to l5 nnutes; Fhotos 3 - 5).
Begn by spongng the water fron
the snk to reduce the fow under the
snk when you pu off the trap (Fhoto
3). Keep your pan or bucket underneath;
drty water w fow out. We show pas
tc dran nes, but nany oder ktchen
snks have neta traps and ppes. Meta
sp nuts are usuay nore dffcut to
oosen than pastc, but ether w prob
aby requre the use of sp|ont pers
to break then free. Loosen then genty
to avod crackng or bendng the trap
assenby.
Unscrew the sp nut between the
Ftrap and the trap arn frst, then the
nut at the botton of the waste tee. lf
the trap s cogged, cean t (Fhoto 4),
re nsta t and test the ne wth warn
water. Don't overtghten the sp nuts.
Hand tght pus a quarter turn wth a
pers shoud be enough.
lf the Ftrap sn't cogged, nove on
and renove the trap arn and cean t
(Fhoto 5). Fun a screwdrver around the
nsde of the ppe stubout and pu out
any debrs that nay have coected n
the openng. lf you st haven't found the
cog, reach for the snakel
SLIP
NUTS
TRAP
ARM
WASTE
TEE
P-TRAP
PAN
SLIP
NUT
TRAP
ARM
7
Continue to turn the snake when you encounter resistance. The snake tip is
designed to corkscrew through clogs and around corners.
8
Pull the snake back out, cleaning the cable with a rag as you retrieve it.
Reinstall the P-trap and run water to test the drain.
Snake the line
Begn by oosenng the setscrew at the
tp of the snake and pung out 6 to l0
n. of cabe. Then tghten the setscrew
and spn the snake down nto the dran
ne (Fhotos 6 and /). lntay you nay
fee an obstructon, but t's key that the
tp of the snake s |ust turnng a corner.
Loosen the setscrew, pu out another 6
to l0 n. of cabe and contnue to feed
the snake nto the ne. lf you fee the
cabe ht an obstructon, contnue crank
ng and pushng the cabe through the
cog unt you fee the tp bte through.
Ths shoud be obvous because the
tenson n the cabe w drop. When
you are through the cog, turn the crank
countercockwse and pu out the cabe.
Cean the cabe as you pu; t' probaby
be covered wth ncredby drty gunk
(Fhoto 8). You nay get a arge pug of
natera at the end of the snake, so keep
that bucket handy. Fepeat the process
unt you no onger fee bockage, then
reassenbe the trap and run penty of
warn water to fush the ne.
CLOG
GUNK!
!
tip
After the drain is open, pour
1/2 cup of baking soda and
1/2 cup of white vinegar into
the drain. Cover both openings
and let it sit for a few minutes.
Then run another gallon or so
of warm water behind it to
flush out the mixture. The com-
bination of baking soda and
vinegar can break down any
leftover fat deposits and will
leave your drain smelling fresh.
6
Thread the tip of the snake into the drain stub-out. Tighten the setscrew
and turn the crank clockwise to feed it into the drainpipe.
DRAIN
STUB-OUT
SETSCREW
HOW TO CLEAR CLOGGED SINK DRAINS ; STOP A RUNNING TOILET
Stop a
A
toilet that wont stop running can drive you crazy,
especially when youre trying to fall asleep. But you
can put an end to this water torture yourself, even if
you have no plumbing know-how. You may be able to solve the
problem in just a few minutes without spending a dime. At worst,
this fix will cost a few hours and $20 in toilet parts.
Finding the problem
is usually simple
A toilet runs constantly because the fill valve that lets water into
the tank isnt closing completely. A toilet runs intermittently
because the valve opens slightly for a few minutes. In either case,
you have to figure out why that valve isnt stopping the incom-
ing water flow.
First, look for leaks. A leak in the tank can make a toilet run
constantly or intermittently. If your toilet is leaking, youve prob-
ably noticed it already. But take a look just to be sure. If you find
leaks coming from the tank bolts or flush valve, youll most likely
have to remove the tank from the bowl so you can replace the
tank bolts, the rubber washers and the gaskets on the flush valve.
If there are leaks around the fill valve, tighten the locknut (see
Photo 6, p. 24). Leaks can come from cracks in the tank, too. In
that case, the only reliable solution is a new toilet.
If you dont find any leaks, lift off the tank cover. At first
glance, the parts inside may look intimidating. But dont worry.
There are really only two main parts: the flush valve, which lets
water gush into the bowl during the flush; and the fill valve,
which lets water refill the tank after the flush. When a toilet runs
constantly or intermittently, one of these valves is usually at
fault.
To determine which valve is causing the trouble, look at the
overflow tube. If water is overflowing into the tube, theres a
problem with the fill valve. Fill valve fixes are shown on p. 22.
If the water level is below the top of the tube, the flush valve is
leaking, allowing water to trickle into the bowl. That slow, con-
stant outflow of water prevents the fill valve from closing com-
pletely. To fix a flush valve, see p. 25.
Your toilet wont look so pristine inside as the ones shown
here. Youll find scummy surfaces, water stains and corrosion.
But dont be squeamishthe water is as clean as the stuff that
comes out of your faucets.
running toilet
TOILET, TUB AND SHOWER REPAIRS
Gently bend the float arm down to put
extra pressure on the valve. (To adjust
a float that doesnt have an arm, see
Photo 8, p. 24.) Then flush the toilet
to see if it works.
Fix 1: Adjust the float
If your valve has a ball that floats at the
end of a rod, gently lift the rod and listen.
If the water shuts off, you may be able to
stop the running by adjusting the float.
Some fill valves have a float adjustment
screw on top (see Figure A). If there is
no adjustment screw, bend the float
arm (photo bel ow). I f you have a
Fluidmaster-style fill valve, make sure its
adjusted properly (Photo 8, p. 24.) You
dont have to empty the tank to make
these adjustments.
Solution 1:
Repair the fill valve
You may have to replace the fill valve, but these three fixes are worth a try first:
FILL
VALVE
WASHER
FLOAT
ARM
Fix 2: Flush the valve
Hard water, debris from old pipes or particles from a break in a city water line can prevent
a flush valve from closing completely. Running water through it from the supply line will
clear the debris. Photos 1 and 2 show you how to do this on one common type of valve.
Even though other valves will look different, the clearing process is similar. However, you
may have to remove a few screws on top of the fill valve to remove the cap.
1
Remove the fill valve cap. On this
type of valve, press down and turn
counterclockwise. Remove screws on
other types of valves.
2
Cover the valve with your hand. Turn
on the water (cautiously, so you
dont get a cold shower!) and let it flush
out the valve for a few seconds.
FILL
VALVE
CAP
FILL
VALVE
POTENTIAL
GEYSER
WATER
SUPPLY
UNDER
TOILET
CAP
Figure A: Toilet cutaway
Fix 3: Replace the washer
When you remove the cap to flush out the valve, inspect the
washer for wear or cracks. Replacing a bad washer is cheap ($1)
and easy (photo right). But finding the right washer may not be.
The most common washers are often available at home cen-
ters and hardware stores.
Other styles can be hard
to find. If you decide to
hunt for a washer, remove
it and take it to the store
to find a match. Plumbers
usually replace the whole
fill valve rather than hunt
for a replacement washer.
Replace a worn, cracked
valve washer by prying
the old washer out of the
cap with a small screw-
driver. Press the new one
into place.
SCREWDRIVER
WASHER
FILL
VALVE
FLOAT ADJUSTMENT
SCREW
FILL VALVE
HANDLE
HANDLE ARM
CHAIN
OVERFLOW
TUBE
FILL TUBE
TANK BOLT
FLAPPER
FLUSH
VALVE
FLOAT ARM
FLOAT
STOP A RUNNING TOILET
Fix 4: If you cant fix the fill valve, replace it
Replacing a fill valve requires only a few basic tools (adjustable
pliers and a pair of scissors) and an hour of your time. A kit con-
taining the type of valve shown here and everything else you
need costs about $12 at home centers and hardware stores.
Your first step is to shut off the water. In most cases, youll
have a shutoff valve right next to the toilet coming either
through the floor or out of the wall. If you dont have a shutoff,
turn off the water supply at the main shutoff valve, where water
enters your home. This is a good time to add a shutoff valve next
to the toilet or replace one that leaks. This is also a good time to
replace the supply line that feeds your toilet (Photo 2). A flexible
supply line reinforced with a metal sleeve costs about $7 at home
1
Replace the fill valve. Turn off the water at the shutoff
valve. Flush the toilet and hold the flush valve open to
drain the tank. Sponge out the remaining water or vacuum it up
with a wet/dry vacuum.
2
Unscrew the coupling nut that connects the supply line.
If the valve turns inside the tank, hold its base with
locking pliers. Tip: Throw a towel on the floor underneath to
catch water that will drain from the line.
3
Remove the locknut that holds the valve to the tank. Push
down gently on the valve as you unscrew the nut. Pull out
the old valve.
4
Measure the height of the overflow tube. Measure to the
top of the tube, not to any water level label on the tube.
FLUSH
VALVE
WATER
SHUTOFF
ADJUSTABLE
PLIERS
LOCKING
PLIERS
WATER
SUPPLY LINE
COUPLING
NUT
OLD FILL
VALVE
LOCKNUT
OVERFLOW
TUBE
centers and hardware stores. Photos 1 8 show how to replace
the valve. If the height of your valve is adjustable, set the height
before you install the valve (Photo 5). If your valve is a different
style from the one shown, check the directions. After mounting
the valve (Photo 6), connect the fill tube (Photo 7). The fill tube
squirts water into the overflow tube to refill the toilet bowl.
The water that refills the tank gushes from the bottom of the fill
valve. When you install the valve and supply lines, turn the nuts
finger-tight. Then give each another one-eighth turn with pliers.
When you turn the water supply back on, immediately check for
leaks and tighten the nuts a bit more if necessary.
5
Adjust the height of the new fill valve by holding the base
and twisting the top. The height from the base to the CL
(critical level) mark should be the height of the overflow tube
plus 1 in.
6
Remove the cap, press down to compress the washer and
screw on the locknut. Connect the supply line and flush
the valve. Reset the cap and check for leaks.
7
Slip the fill tube onto the fill valve. Clip the angle adapter
onto the overflow tube. Then cut the tube to fit and slip it
onto the angle adapter.
8
Turn on the water to fill the tank. Pinch the spring clip
and slide the float up or down to set the water level 1 in.
below the top of the overflow tube or to the water line marked
on the tank.
CAP REMOVED
WASHER
LOCKNUT
NEW FILL
VALVE
HEIGHT OF
OVERFLOW
TUBE PLUS 1
C.L.
MARK
FILL TUBE
ANGLE
ADAPTER
SPRING
CLIP
OVERFLOW
TUBE
STOP A RUNNING TOILET
Solution 2:
Fix the flush valve
When a flush valve causes a toilet to run, a worn flapper is usu-
ally the culprit. But not always. First, look at the chain that raises
the flapper. If theres too much slack in the chain, it can tangle
up and prevent the flapper from closing firmly. A chain with too
little slack can cause trouble too. Photo 3 on p. 26 shows how to
set the slack just right.
Next, test the flapper as shown in Photo 1. If extra pressure on
the flapper doesnt stop the running noise, water is likely escap-
ing through a cracked or corroded overflow tube. In that case,
you have to detach the tank from the bowl and replace the whole
flush valve.
If pressing down on the flapper stops the noise, the flapper isnt
sealing under normal pressure. Turn off the water, flush the toilet to
empty the tank and then run your finger around the rim of the flush
valve seat. If you feel mineral depos-
its, clean the flush valve seat with an
abrasive sponge or ScotchBrite pad.
Dont use anything that might roughen
it. If cleaning the flush valve seat doesnt
solve the problem, you need to replace the flapper.
Replacing your flapper may require slightly different steps
than are shown here (Photos 2 and 3). Your flapper may screw
onto a threaded rod or have a ring that slips over the overflow
tube. If you have an unusual flush valve, finding a replacement
flapper may be the hardest part of the job. To find a suitable
replacement, turn off the water, remove the flapper, and take
the old one with you to the home center or hardware store. You
may not find an identical match, but chances are youll locate
1
Push down on the flapper with a yardstick and listen. If the
sound of running water stops, the flapper needs replacing. 2
Remove the old flapper from the ears of the overflow tube
and detach the chain from the handle arm.
YARDSTICK
FLAPPER
OLD
FLAPPER
EARS
OVERFLOW
TUBE
one of the same shape and diam-
eter. If not, try a plumbing supply
store (in the yellow pages under Plumbing
Supplies) or search online (a good source is
doplumb.com). It helps to know the brand and model of your
toilet. The brand name is usually on the bowl behind
the seat. In some cases, the model or number will be
on the underside of the lid or inside the tank.
Matching an unusual flapper can become
a trial-and-error process. Even profes-
sional plumbers sometimes try two
or three flappers before they
find one that works well.
3
Attach the new flapper to the overflow tube and hook
the chain to the handle arm. Leave 1/2 in. of slack in the
chain. Turn the water back on and test-flush the toilet.

HANDLE
ARM
NEW
FLAPPER
1/2" OF
SLACK
IN CHAIN
*
Clean a sluggish toilet
If your toilet flushes slowly, the rinse holes under the
rim may be clogged with mineral deposits. With a mir-
ror and a coat hanger, you can clean out those clogged
holes without ever getting your hands dirty. The photo
says it alllook into the mirror to see if the holes are
clogged and poke them clean with a coat hanger.
Use a hand mirror to see the holes under the rim of
the toilet. Bend a coat hanger flat and probe the tip
into the holes to poke out any mineral deposits.
Hot glue for tile accessories
Most tile setters use masking tape to support ceramic
soap dishes and shelves while the tile adhesive cures.
Heres a better way: Apply a small bead of hot-melt
glue along the seam. Hold the item in place for just a
few seconds while the hot glue stiffens. The glue cre-
ates a strong seal, so theres little chance of slipping or
breakage. Once the permanent adhesive sets, just peel
away the bead of glue.
HOT- MELT
GLUE
STOP A RUNNI NG TOI LET; SLUGGI SH TOI LET; HOT GLUE FOR TI LE; RESTORE FREE FLOW TO A CLOGGED FAUCET
Restore free flow to a clogged faucet
I f the fl ow from your bathroom or
kitchen faucet isnt what it used to be,
the aerator is probably plugged. An aer-
ator can clog slowly as mineral deposits
build up, or quickly after plumbing work
loosens debris inside pipes. Usually,
a quick cleaning solves the problem.
Remove the aerator (Photo 1) and disas-
semble it. You may need a small screw-
driver or knife to pry the components
apart. Scrub away any tough buildup
with an old toothbrush (Photo 2) and
rinse each part thoroughly. Deposits can
also build up inside the faucet neck, so
ream it out with your finger and flush
out the loosened debris.
If the mineral buildup resists scrub-
bing and you have a standard cylin-
der-shaped aerator, you can replace it
(about $5). Take your old aerator along
to the home center or hardware store to
find a match. If your aerator has a fancy
shape (like the one shown here), finding
a match wont be as simple. So try this
first: Soak the aerator parts in vinegar
overnight to soften mineral buildup.
If that doesnt work, go to any online
search engine and type in the brand of
your faucet followed by faucet parts.
With a little searching, you can find
diagrams of your faucet and order a new
aerator. Expect to spend $10 or more for
a nonstandard aerator.
1
Wrap the jaws of pliers with electri-
cal tape and unscrew the aerator.
Close the stopper so the small parts cant
fall down the drain.
2
Disassemble the aerator and lay out
the parts in the order you remove
them to make reassembly foolproof.
Scrub the parts and reassemble them.
ELECTRICAL
TAPE
AERATOR
*
Clean a clogged showerhead
Heres a quick fix for a clogged showerhead. Pour
white vinegar into a plastic sandwich bag until its half
full. Pull the bag over the showerhead until its spray
channels are submerged. Tape the bag to the shower-
head pipe with electrical tape and leave on overnight.
Scrub away any remaining buildup with an old tooth-
brush. Your showerhead will be as good as new. Note:
Vinegar may damage old, worn finishes.
Mount a towel bar
on ceramic tile
In the past, ceramic fixtures such as towel bar
holders and soap dishes were cemented right
to the wall and the tile was fitted around
them. Now most are designed to be glued to
the face of the tile with 100 percent silicone
caulk. The only tricky part is holding them in
place until the silicone sets up.
First thoroughly clean the tile with dena-
tured alcohol. Lay a bead of caulk on the back
of the fixture, push it into place and secure it
with masking tape. Let the caulk stiffen for
an hour or so and then add caulk around the
perimeter. Use a wet finger or rag to smooth
the caulk joint. Let it sit overnight before you
pull the tape. Remember to put the rod in
before setting the second fixture.
Shower valve conversion and cover-up
The best way to replace a two-handled shower valve with a single-handled
unit is with a conversion plate. The plate covers the old valve holes and
you do the entire job through the hole you cut in the tile. Buy a plate ($25
to $50) that fits your new faucet and is wide enough to cover the old valve
positions. To find a conversion plate, call a plumbing supply store or order
online at absolutehome.com.
1
Unscrew the old handles.
Mark the cover hole on the
tile and cut it out with an abra-
sive blade in a jigsaw.
2
Cut the pipes and remove
the old valve. Solder in a
new one and screw the conversion
plate over the hole.
OLD
VALVE
NEW
VALVE
CONVERSION
PLATE
MASKING
TAPE HOLDS
FIXTURES
IN PLACE
100 PERCENT
SILICONE
CAULK
PLASTIC
SANDWICH
BAG
SPRAY
CHANNELS
SHOWER
PIPE
ELECTRICAL
TAPE
VINEGAR
LINE
SHOWER VALVE; CLEAN A SHOWERHEAD; TOWEL BAR; REPLACE A BROKEN BATHTUB STOPPER
OLD OVERFLOW COVER
OVERFLOW WASHER
OVERFLOW PIPE
NEW TWO-HOLE,
LEVERLESS
OVERFLOW COVER
OLD
DRAIN FLANGE
STOPPER BODY
RUBBER GASKET
WASTE ARM
OLD POP-UP
LINKAGE
Replace a broken
bathtub stopper

hen the stopper n your everstye bathtub
dran won't pop up anynore because the
nkage s danaged or cogged, repace t
wth a nuch snper ftandturn stye dran. The nkage
n a everstye dran attracts drt and har ke a nagnet,
and nust be ceaned reguary n order to keep the dran
workng propery. The ftandturn dran has no conp
cated nkage to dg out and cean-anost everythng
catches n the dran grate. Buy the repacenent kt at
hardware stores and hone centers for about Sl5 to S40.
Fhoto l shows how to renove the overfow pate and
nkage. The nkage nay stck and be stubborn to renove.
Orab hod of t and tug hard unt t pops out. 8crew on the
new overfow pate once the nkage has been renoved.
The toughest part of the |ob s renovng the od stop
per body, but t's a downh after that. Fenove the od
stopper body as shown n Fhoto 2. lf you're havng troube
unscrewng t, try heatng t wth a har dryer set on "hgh."
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oekhi[b\ ed W èX m[bb Zed[%
Replace a broken
tub spout diverter
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3
SLIDE in a new gasket. Then roll a pencil-sized bead of
plumbers putty and press it around the underside of the
new stopper body rim. Stick the jaws of an 8-in. pliers into the
stopper body grate and thread it into the drainpipe.
1
UNSCREW the overflow plate and pull the upper linkage out
of the overflow pipe. Pop out the drain stopper and remove
the lower linkage as well. Tug firmly when extracting both parts
of the linkage because they may bind inside the overflow pipe.
2
CUT a notch 1/4 in. wide and deep in the old stopper body
with a mini hacksaw. Check progress frequently to ensure
you dont cut into the tub. Wedge a 3/4-in. cold chisel into the
cutout slot and pound counterclockwise with a hammer to free
the stopper body (use caution when hammering so you dont
scratch the enameled tub). Completely unscrew and remove the
stopper body.
PLUNGER ROD
WATER
INLET
GATE
UPPER LINKAGE
OLD
OVERFLOW
PLATE
CUTOUT
SLOT
COLD CHISEL
MINI
HACKSAW
STOPPER
BODY
PLUMBERS
PUTTY
NEW
GASKET
T
I
G
H
T
E
N
L
O
O
S
E
N
STOPPER
THREADS
NEW
LIFT-AND-TURN
STOPPER
STOPPER THREADS
INTO STOPPER BODY
BROKEN BATHTUB STOPPER; BROKEN TUB SPOUT DI VERTER; REPAI R A LEAKI NG COPPER PI PE
2
CLEAN corrosion from the inside of the repair sleeve using
a wire fitting brush. Clean the outside of the pipe with
plumbers sandcloth or emery paper. Brush flux onto all four
cleaned surfaces.
1
SHUT OFF the main water supply valve, drain the damaged
water line and use a pipe cutter to cut out a section of pipe
that extends about 1 in. to each side of the leak. Start by grip-
ping the pipe firmly in the cutters jaws and tightening the
cutters screw. Rotate the cutter in the direction shownas you
tighten the screw handleuntil the pipe snaps.

hen a copper water ppe corrodes and
eaks, or bursts fron freezng, you have to
fx t fast. lf the eak s pnhoeszed and
ess than l2 n. of ppe nust be renoved, you can nake
the repar by cuttng the ppe and soderng ("sweatng")
on an ordnary ppe coupng (30).
But to repar onger sectons, use a "sweat" coupng,
whch you can fnd at hone centers and westocked
hardware stores. For S3, you can buy a sweat coupng
szed to repar l2n. or 34n. copper ppe.
Mark the eak, shut off the nan water vave and
dran (or thaw and dran) the affected ppe. Cut out the
danaged secton (Fhoto l), then neasure the gap and,
fron the sweat coupng, cut a repar pece that's l n. on
ger than the danaged secton.
The key to a good soder |ont s to keep the nsde of
the ppes dry, so keep a cotton rag stuffed n each ppe
end to absorb drbbes of water unt |ust before you
soder. Open a faucet above that eve to keep pressure
fron budng up and drbbng nore water nto your
repar. Then conpete the steps shown n
Fhotos 2 - 4 for a eakproof repar.
Once fnshed, turn the
nan suppy vave on
and check
for eaks.
CUT the repair sleeve from the 12-in. repair coupling stock.
Smooth the rough-cut inside edges of the sleeve by inserting the
blade of the pipe cutter into the cut ends and turning the cutter
until the sleeve will slide over the pipe ends without snagging.
Clean the sleeves inside edges for soldering with a 3/4-in.-dia.
wire fitting brush.
3/4" PIPE
SPLIT FROM
FREEZING
PIPE
CUTTER
1" WIDE SANDED
SURFACE
FLUX
BRUSH
3-1/2" REPAIR
SLEEVE
2-1/2" WIDE
CUTOUT
3-1/2" REPAIR
SLEEVE

Repair a

leaking copper pipe
3/4" x 12" SWEAT
REPAIR COUPLING
PIPE
DEBURRING
BLADE
Unclog a showerhead
Over tne, hardwater nneras n tap water bud up and cog
the spray hoes n showerheads. Fx ths proben by renovng
the showerhead and ceanng t. Buy a nerenovng product to
oosen the scae, or soak the head overnght n vnegar (ether
whte or appe cder). Check the owner's nanua or nanufac
turer's Web ste to confrn that vnegar won't harn the fnsh.
Carefuy renove the showerhead and open the hoes usng
the steps shown n Fhotos l and 2. lf the showerhead s too stuck
to renove, try fng a pastc bag wth vnegar, tyng the top of
the bag around the top of the showerhead and subnergng t
overnght n the vnegar.
4
HOLD the tip of the torch flame to one side of the joint
and hold the tip of the solder wire to the opposite side.
Pull the solder away when enough of it melts to completely
fill the joint.
3
SLIDE an end of the sleeve first over one pipe and then
slip it back over onto the other. You may have to loosen
nearby pipe hangers. Center the sleeve over the pipe ends so
that about 1/2 in. of each pipe is inside the sleeve.
REPAIR
SLEEVE
LOOSENED PIPE
HANGER
SLIDE OVER
PIPE
FLAME PROTECTOR
COVERING
WOOD JOIST
REPAIR SLEEVE
CENTERED
ACROSS GAP
LEAD-FREE
SOLDER
1
UNSCREW the showerhead by gripping the shower neck with
a pipe wrench (as shown), grabbing the nut on the shower-
head with the adjustable pliers and turning the pliers counter-
clockwise until the nut loosens. Protect the finishes on the show-
erhead and wall pipe by wrapping them with a cloth.
2
OPEN the showerhead holes by soaking the head overnight
in a vinegar bath and poking the loosened mineral scale
free with a toothpick. Rinse the showerhead in tap water, then
reinstall it by applying Teflon tape to the wall pipe threads,
screwing it on and tightening it by reversing the technique in
Photo 1. Complete the repair by turning on the cold water in the
shower and blasting out any remaining mineral gunk.
VINEGAR
BATH
PIPE WRENCH
HOLDS SHOWER
PIPE NECK
RAG PROTECTS
PIPING AND
SHOWERHEAD
FINISH
ADJUSTABLE
PLIERS LOOSENS
SHOWERHEAD NUT
REPAI R A LEAKI NG COPPER PI PE; UNCLOG A SHOWERHEAD; CLEAR A CLOGGED TOI LET; WATER-SUPPLY TUBE
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Select a
water-supply tube
3
FOR STUBBORN CLOGS, spin a closet
auger or regular snake through the
drain. The hooked spring end should break
through the clog or grab the obstruction
(such as a rag) so you can pull it out. Once
a clog passes the wax ring into the wider
drain, it should move easily.
1
DONT FLUSH the toilet if you suspect
a clog. Make a first plunge gently
to expel air from the plunger bell; then
plunge vigorously in and out. Keep the
plunger covered with water. If the plung-
er fails to clear a clog, use a closet auger,
as shown in Photo 3.
2
TEST the drain by letting in small
amounts of waterdont use the
flush handle. Instead, remove the tank lid
and manually open and close the flapper
to see whether water goes down easily. If
its still plugged, youll have to push the
flapper down to restore seal quickly.
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N^[d Wdo fWhj e\ j^[ mWj[h fWj^ _i b_c_j[Z# jhekXb[i X[]_d%
Clear a
clogged toilet
FLAPPER
VALVE
VENT
PIPE
TRAP
WAX RING
3" OR 4"
WASTE PIPE
SIPHON-JET
CHAMBER
RINSE HOLES
WASTE PIPE
CLOSET
AUGER
Chrome Plastic No-burst
RIM CHAMBER
lf the d to your toet tank rattes or wob
bes, renove t and add a dab of scone
cauk to the four corners of the tank p.
After t dres, repace the d; the noses
shoud dsappear.
Hush a
rattling lid Ad|ust the foat arn. lf the
foat st foats (t's not water
ogged), nake the water rse
hgher or ower n the tank
by bendng the foat arn at
ts center. lf arn won't bend
under hand pressure, grp t
wth a par of pers on ether
sde of center. Fush the toet
to test your ad|ustnent.
Adjust a running toilet
When you fush a toet, a carefuy baanced seres of events
takes pace n the tank. As you push the fush hande, the tank
stopper ba s fted fron ts vave seat, aowng water to fow
fron the tank nto the bow. When the tank s neary enpty, the
tank ba fas back nto the vave seat, cuttng off the fow.
As the tank's water eve fas, so does the foat, openng up
the suppy, or bacock, vave |ust as the tank ba seas the tank.
The tank then refs through the tank f tube, and the bow and
trap ref fron the bow f tube drectng water down the over
fow tube. As the foat rses, t shuts off the bacock vave and the
toet s ready for acton once agan. When any part of ths baanc
ng act s out of whack, you' need to nake one of the repars
shown n the chart beow.
lf your toet tank or bow deveops a eak, check a ppes and
connectons. lf a ppe or tube s corroded or the tank or bow s
cracked, repace t. lf the eak appears near a |ont, cean away
any corroson, repace any gaskets or washers and tghten the
connecton. Be carefu when tghtenng bots and nuts nounted
to porcean-the porcean nay crack and run the toet.
Adjust lift wires or chain to align tank ball. Clean valve seat.
Bend the float arm down.
Bend the float arm. Clean the valve seat. If the float is waterlogged, replace it. Replace
tank ball or flapper.
Put new washers in the ballcock-valve plunger. Replace ballcock assembly.
Water runs continuously.
Water spills into overflow tube.
Water runs after flushing.
Whistling sounds occur.
Splashing sounds are heard.
Reposition the refill tube to eject directly into overflow tube. Put new washers in the
ballcock-valve assembly.
Tank flushes partially.
Shorten the lift wires or chain to make the tank ball rise higher. Bend the float arm
upward to raise the water level.
Tank sweats.
Insulate the tank by lining it with sheets of polystyrene or foam rubber.
Have plumber install tempering valve to warm the water in the tank.
Tank leaks.
Tighten connections to the water-supply line. Check gaskets and washers around
discharge pipe and mounting bolts to the bowl.
Toilet leaks at base.
Tighten bolts at base of bowl. Disconnect the toilet from the floor and replace the wax
seal under the bowl.
BALLCOCK SUPPLY
VALVE ASSEMBLY
BOWL FILL TUBE FLOAT ARM
LIFT WIRES
FLOAT
TANK BALL
VENT
PIPE
VALVE SEAT
Troubleshoot toilet tank problems
Problem Solution
OVERFLOW
TUBE
TANK FILL
TUBE
GUIDE ARM
TOI LET TANK PROBLEMS; ADJUST A RUNNI NG TOI LET; RATTLI NG LI D; LEAKI NG WAX RI NG; CLEAN RI NSE HOLES
Clean the rinse holes
of a poorly flushing toilet
When water eaks out fron under a toet,
the wax rng nust be repaced nnedatey
to avod water danage. 8hut off and dran
the water, and oosen one end of the suppy
tube. Fenove the two fange nuts hodng
the toet n pace-be prepared to use a
hacksaw to cut then f they're frozen n
pace. Fug the dran tenporary wth a
rag, then scrape the od wax fron the toet
base and fange. lnsta a new wax rng wth
a rubber or pastc coar. Fenove the rag
and ower the toet straght onto the bots.
8t on the toet to conpress the wax; t w
resea the connecton between fange and
toet bow. Fensta the nuts, washers and
suppy tube.
Replace a leaking wax ring
FLANGE
RAG TO STOP
SEWER GAS
RUBBER
COLLAR
WAX
RING
lf your poory fushng toet
worked we n the past and
you ve n an area wth hard
water, chances are the rnse
hoes around the botton of the
rn have becone cogged wth
ne deposts. Cear rnse and
sphon hoes are cruca for
conpete fushng acton. Even
though the water fron the tank
w eventuay fnd ts way nto
the bow, hgh water voune on
the frst surge s nportant for
good fushng. There has to be
a "crtca nass" of water for
sods to be fushed.
As a frst step, rean out
the rnse hoes wth a bent coat
hanger (Fhoto A). To do a thor
ough |ob, dry the botton of the
rn, then ro up paper towe
"ropes" and sea then aganst
the botton of the rnse hoes
wth punber's putty pushed
aganst the botton of the rn
(Fhoto B). Then sea the sphon
|et hoe wth another gob of
putty and pour a botte of ne
renover nto the overfow ppe
(Fhoto C). Let t st for at east
eght hours to aow the ne
renover to dssove deposts.
Fenove everythng and fush
the toet severa tnes.
A
CLEAN the rinse holes
B
SEAL the rinse holes
SIPHON JET HOLE
PAPER TOWELS
C
REMOVE lime deposits
OVERFLOW
PIPE
2
ALIGN the bolt holes with the masking tape and lower the
toilet bowl straight over the bolts. Push down on the rim
of the toilet to seat the wax ring, then close the lid and sit on
the toilet for a few minutes to force the toilet all the way to the
floor. Stop when the porcelain surface rests on the finished floor.
1
PUSH the new wax ring onto the toilet horn with the
rounded side toward the toilet. Mark the water closet bolt
positions on the floor with masking tape.
Frequenty a toet eaks snpy because the wax rng has ost ts
sea. By far the nost connon reason for a broken sea s a toet
that rocks when you st on t. A toet that rocks even sghty w
eventuay conpronse the wax rng. lf you fnd no evdence of
other probens after you pu the toet, snpy repacng the
wax rng and resettng the toet shoud fx the proben. Usuay
toets rock because of an uneven foor-especay ted foors.
After you set the toet, shn gaps between the toet and the foor
before caukng around the toet (Fhoto 3). That' prevent the
toet fron rockng and runng another sea ater.
Before you nount the toet, push and wgge the wax rng to
hep t stck to the porcean around the horn. That' keep t fron
fang off as you ower the bow. When you reset the toet, t's
nportant to drop t drecty nto pace. lf t's not agned drecty
over the bots when the wax rng neets the toet fange, you rsk
dstortng the wax rng and runng the sea. Markng bot oca
tons wth naskng tape w hep you see ther poston (Fhoto 2)
as you ower the bow.
4
CAULK around the toilet base with silicone caulk, leav-
ing the back end of the base uncaulked. The gap leaves a
space for moisture under the toilet to escape. (Some local codes
require caulk around the entire base.)
3
SLIP the bolt cap washers over the bolts, then snug down
the water closet washers and nuts with a wrench. Be care-
ful not to overtighten the nuts, especially over gaps between
the toilet and the floor. Slip toilet shims under any toilet edge
gaps and cut off the excess length. Some shims are pretty
tough. If a utility knife wont cut through the plastic, you may
have to chop them off with a sharp wood chisel.
TOILET
HORN
ROUND SIDE UP
MARK
LOCATIONS
ALIGNMENT
TAPE
MARK
LOCATIONS
TOILET
HORN
ROUND SIDE UP
lf ony the area drecty beow the fange s rotted, you can nsta a twopece
stee coset fange support. lt goes under the fange and transfers the oad of the
fange and toet (and you) out onto nore sod surroundng wood. But f your
foor s severey rotted, say nore than an nch beyond the fange, you're stuck
repacng the foorng around the toet. Order a fange support for about Sl8
fron 8oux Chef (80082l3944) www.souxchef.con. The conpany offers one
type for cast ron fanges and one for pastc or brass.
Solidify a small area of rotting floor
ROTTED WOOD
CLOSET
FLANGE
SUPPORT
EXISTING
CLOSET FLANGE
SOLID WOOD
Reset and fix a rocking toilet
WATER
CLOSET
WASHER AND
NUT
BOLT CAP
WASHER TOILET
SHIMS
CUT SHIM
FLUSH
LEAVE OPEN
ROCKI NG TOI LET; SOLI DI FY ROTTI NG FLOOR; OVERHAUL A TOI LET TANK
Overhaul a toilet tank
5
CLEAN out new valve to remove any dislodged mineral
deposits. To do this, turn off water, take off cap, and then
open water shutoff valve slowly to let water bubble out.
4
TRIM bowl refill tube to length to avoid kinking and install it.
Push refill tube over stem on valve and clip it to rim of over-
flow tube so water will be directed straight into overflow. Install
and tighten water supply tube and turn on water to test toilet.
3
ADJUST the length of new fill valve by twisting fill valve base
stem until the critical water mark (see Photo 4) is 1 in. above
top of overflow tube. Install rubber gasket and test-fit height by
setting valve in place. Orient fill valve so bowl refill tube points
toward overflow tube. Secure fill valve with locknut.
2
REMOVE old fill valve after unscrewing locknut under the
tank, then lift out the mechanism. Float ball and refill tube
are attached and will come out with it. Clean area around the
hole where the fill valve mounts to the tank.
1
DISCONNECT the water supply tube located under the tanks
bottom left side. Inside the tank, attach locking pliers to
the base of the old fill valve to keep it from spinning. With
adjustable pliers, remove locknut on outside of tank.

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OLD FILL
VALVE
LOCKING
PLIERS
WATER
SUPPLY
TUBE
SHUTOFF
VALVE
OLD FILL VALVE
FLOAT BALL
RUBBER
GASKET
NEW FLOAT
BASE STEM
OVERFLOW TUBE
BOWL REFILL
TUBE
CRITICAL
WATER
MARK
RETAINING
CLIP
FILL
VALVE
CAP
A
vert a nornng househod dsaster by cearng
a cogged toet fast. Wth a tte practce, even
a hone repar rooke can get nost cogged
toets back up and runnng n nnutes, wthout foodng
the bathroon and nakng the stuaton worse . . . sone
tnes nuch worsel
For about 90 percent of cogged toets, you ony
need one speca too-a punger. Buy one wth an
extenson fange on the rubber beshaped end (photo
beow). lt's desgned to ft toets better so you can
dever nore "oonph" to the punge. You coud pu a
woodchuck fron a hoe wth one of these thngs. lt'
unpug snk and tub drans too, f you snpy fod the
fange back nto the be.
Unclogging toilets
A $4.95 plunger will make you the family hero!
UNCLOGGI NG TOI LETS
Dont flush the toilet if you suspect that its clogged. Instead, remove
the tank lid and lift the flapper valve slightly to let a cup or two of
water into the bowl to see if the water goes down. Flushing a clogged
toilet may flood your floor!
Become a master plunger
The photo above shows how a punger fts over and
seas the toet dran. Wear rubber goves-thngs can
get nessy-and foow these pungng tps:
(% Make your frst punge a gente one. lntay
the be s fu of ar. A hard thrust w force the
ar back around the sea and bow water a over
the bathroon and youl
)% Once you force out the ar, punge vgor
ousy n and out, nantanng the sea. You'
be forcng water both drectons n the dran,
whch w effectvey oosen nost cogs. 8tck
wth t, pungng l5 to 20 tnes f necessary.
*% Be patent. Try aternatng between steady
strokes and occasona nonster heaves.
+% Keep enough water n the bow so the
punger stays covered. Tryng to force ar through
the toet trap won't generate nuch pressure.
Most of the tne, ths s a t takes to cear the
cog. However, f the punger won't open the dran, or
f you can force out the water wth the punger but the
toet st won't fush we, reach for the snake (photos
on p. 40).
Plunge the toilet with the rubber flange pulled out to
get a better seal. Push in and out vigorously, keeping
enough water in the bowl to cover the plunger. Keep towels
handy to wipe up water that splashes out.
Do you have a slow-drainer
or a no-drainer?
A poor fush neans that your toet dran s ether
partay or conpetey pugged. A toet that's
conpetey pugged-a nodraner-s obv
ous. The toet bow w f to the brn
wth fush water and perhaps overfow.
Ove the water eve l0 nnutes or so to
drop, then attack the proben wth a
punger (photo at rght).
However, nost cogged toets
are sow draners, that s, fush
water partay fs the bow but
doesn't rush out and cean away the
waste. The water eve renans hgh,
then usuay drans down to norna
heght wthn a nnute or two. You
nght not know the toet s cogged
unt you fush t. >Y SP cY_ ]_]ZOM^ K
Z\YLVOW Ô]^ ^RO N\KSXKQO PS\]^ K] aO
]RYa SX ^RO ^YZ ZRY^Y LOVYa. lf t doesn't
dran, don't fush t. Feach for the punger.
1
2
PLUNGER
FLANGE
FLAPPER
Major surgery
lf the cog ressts a your efforts, you' probaby
have to pu up the toet. Ths |ob w take severa
hours, because you have to turn off and unhook the
water suppy, partay dsassenbe the toet, and
unscrew t fron ts nountng rng. Chances are,
you can then get at the proben. Be sure to
buy a new wax rng (Sl) and new nountng
bots (Sl) to resea the toet base to the
nountng rng.
However, f other drans n your hone
are pugged, or f water cones up through
then, the proben s probaby farther
down n the nan dranppes, often out
of easy reach. For those cogs, you nay
need to ca a punber or sewer ceaner.
(8one punbers aren't equpped to cean
ong sewer drans.)
HOUSEHOLD SNAKE, $7
Dos and donts
(% Avod chencas. Don't be suckered
nto thnkng that powerfu chencas w
do the nessy work for you. They sone
tnes work, but they're sower. And when
they don't work, you have a
dran fu of corrosve water
on your hands.
lf you tred chencas
and they ddn't work,
run as nuch water nto
the toet as possbe and
et t st overnght to dran
through the cog. Then,
when you punge, wear
safety gogges and rubber
goves to keep the water
out of your eyes and off
your bare skn.
)% Keep the toet cover
down, especay f you
have sna kds, so toys
and harbrushes won't
fa nto the toet.
*% Don't pour hard
en ng conpounds
down the toet. These
ncude such thngs as drywa |ont con
pound, grease, cauk and wax products.
Bore through the clog with a snake
A dran snake s a ong wre co wth a corkscrewke tp that you feed
nto your ppes unt t encounters the cog. Then you turn the snake
cockwse, so that the tp screws nto or through the cog and breaks t
up. Or the debrs wnds onto the wre so you can pu t out.
Even the east expensve snake (photo above) w cear a toet.
But the coset auger (photo beow; Sl5) s a speca type desgned to
get around the frst bend, keep debrs at arn's ength, and yet st
spn the co to hook "foregn ob|ects." A rubber seeve protects the
enane bow fron scrape narks. These snakes are short because nost
obstructons catch n the frst 8bend or at the foor fange. (Funbers
report that the nost connon foregn ob|ects are toys.)
3
4
Spin a special closet auger or regular snake through the drain
if plunging doesnt dislodge the clog. The wire coil end should
break through the obstruction or grab it so you can pull it out.
CLOSET
AUGER
UNCLOGGI NG TOI LETS; JOI NI NG PLASTI C PI PE
A
t frst gance, pastc punbng ppe ooks easy to cut and |on. But don't be
fooed. There's nore to a topquaty nstaaton than neets the eye. Here
are sone tps for cuttng and |onng pastc ppe that' guarantee a ong
astng, eakproof punbng |ob.
PLASTIC BURR
80-GRIT
SANDPAPER
Make square cuts for the
strongest joints
8quare ppe ends ft snugy nto the fttngs, aowng
penty of contact area for the sovent cenent (p. 43) to
work. They aso nake a snoother nteror surface for bet
ter water fow. A power nter saw and other speca tube
cutters guarantee square cuts, but you don't have to buy
then. You can do a good |ob wth |ust a handsaw and an
nprovsed gude. The photo shows an easytouse gude
that's nade by screwng together scraps of 2x4.
For the best resuts, use a saw wth fne teeth and a
bade that's 3 or 4 n. wde. A hacksaw s a poor choce
because the narrow bade tends to wander easy. 8pe
ca saws for cuttng pastc ppe cost about Sl0 to Sl5
and are a worthwhe nvestnent f you do nuch punb
ng work. You' fnd then n the punbng too area or
wth the handsaws n nost hone centers and hardware
stores. Otherwse, any fnetooth saw w work.
2x4 GUIDE
FINE-TOOTH
SAW
PVC
Sand off the saw burrs for a better fit
Fastc burrs eft fron sawng can cause troube. Out
sde the ppe they' nterfere wth a good ft. On the
nsde they can coect debrs and sow the water fow.
You can renove then wth a fe or pocketknfe, but
sandpaper s easer to use and works great. 8npy ro
a quarter sheet of 80grt sandpaper nto a tube and
fatten t sghty to natch the curve of the ppe. Then
hod the sandpaper at an ange and sand the nsde and
outsde of the pastc ppe unt you create sghty bev
eed edges.
Joining
plastic pipe
LEAK-PROOF PLUMBING PIPE REPAIRS
Just swpng the ppe wth cenent and pushng on the
fttng won't ensure a strong |ont. You want to nake
sure you have an even ayer of cenent over a natng
surfaces.
lf you're usng FVC or CFVC ppe, wpe prner around
the ppe and nto the fttng to prepare t for the sovent
cenent. Let t dry about l0 seconds. Then spread an even
ayer of sovent cenent on the sane surfaces. To keep
excess sovent cenent fron beng pushed nto water pp
ng, don't appy too nuch to the nsde of the socket on
the fttng. At ths pont you have to work fast to conpete
the assenby. Agn the fttng and ppe about a quarter
turn fron ther fna orentaton. Then twst the fttng a
quarter turn as you press t onto the ppe. Twstng the
fttng heps spread the sovent cenent eveny to ensure
a sod |ont. lf you've nade agnnent narks (Fhoto 2),
nake sure they're agned wth each other. Hod the ppe
and fttng together for about l5 seconds unt the cenent
grabs. lf you
et go nne
datey, the
p pe nay
push out of
the fttng,
resutng n
a weak |ont.
1
Wipe the inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe
with primer. Spread an even layer of solvent cement on the
inside of the fitting and outside of the pipe.
2
Push the pipe into the fitting and twist until the marks
are aligned. Press and hold the pipe for about 15 seconds.
C a u t i o n :
The solvent vapors from the primer and
cement can make you dizzy and are dan-
gerous to your health. Make sure you
have plenty of ventilation or wear an
approved organic vapor respirator when
working with primer and solvent cement.
Use an even layer of cement and the quarter-turn
technique for the strongest joints
Mark the pipe and fitting
for precise orientation
By the tne you spread the sovent
cenent on both the ppe and the ft
tng and press then together, you have
ony severa seconds to get the agn
nent rght before the peces are stuck
together. That's why t's a good dea
to nake agnnent narks beforehand
on |onts where orentaton s crtca.
Dryft the ppe and fttng, usng a tor
pedo eve f needed to agn the fttng,
and nake a nark across the fttng and
ppe. Use these narks to agn the ft
tng and ppe when you |on then wth
sovent cenent.
TORPEDO
LEVEL
ALIGNMENT
MARKS
PURPLE
PVC/CPVC
PRIMER
PUSH AND
TWIST
FITTING
JOI NI NG PLASTI C PI PE
2
Saw out the bad section. Fix the
goof, using new parts if necessary.
Use a coupling to rejoin the parts.
Prime (if needed) and cement the parts
together.
1
OOPS! The assembled pipes dont
reach the predrilled hole because
we dry-fit the pipes and forgot to allow
extra length for shrinkage. See below.
Dont sweat it
mistakes are usually
easy to fix with
a coupling
lt's aways dsappontng to nake
a nstake. But at east wth pastc
ppe t's easy to fx. 8npy saw out
the nessed up secton, whether t's
too ong, too short or crooked. Cor
rect the nstake and reassenbe
the |ont wth a coupng. ln sone
cases, you can reuse the od secton
of ppe and fttng. Otherwse, set t
asde and cut new parts. You nay
be abe to use the bad secton ater.
Allow for shrinkage if you dry-fit the pipes
Most novce ppe ftters fnd t reassurng to cut and
assenbe a group of ppes and fttngs before gung
then together. lt's OK to do ths as ong as you're aware
of the ptfas.
Don't |an the ppe and fttng together too tght.
They' get stuck and can be dffcut to get apart. lf a ft
tng does get stuck, |ust set a bock of wood aganst the
p and pound the fttng oose wth a hanner.
Leavng the fttngs oose keeps then fron gettng
stuck, but t creates another proben. You can't assune
that the fna assenby w be the sane sze as the dry
ft parts. When you appy sovent cenent to the ppe and
fttng and press then together, you' ose a tte ength
at each |ont. On ll2n. ppes, ths coud be as nuch
as 38 n. per |ont. 8o keep ths n nnd f you dryft,
and aow extra ength where ft s cruca.
Another tp s to nt dry fttng to a sna group of
ppes and fttngs. Jon ths group wth sovent cenent
before novng to the next secton.
Use the proper solvent for each type of plastic
!
tip
Buy extra fittings. Having
extra on hand will save you
a trip to the store. And you
can return the extras when
youre done with the project.
TOO
SHORT
COUPLING
NEW FITTING
LONGER PIPE
There are three connon types of
pastc punbng ppe: FVC, CFVC
and AB8. Each requres a dfferent
knd of sovent cenent. The whte
or bege ppes (FVC and CFVC)
aso requre a prner. You don't
need a prner wth back AB8 ppe.
Fead the abe to natch the so
vent cenent to the type of ppe
you're usng. Avod unversa so
vent cenents.
PVC ABS CPVC
Leakproof
plumbing
connections
Use two types of Teflon on

threaded joints
Connectons that rey on threaded ppes and fttngs are
prone to eaks f they're not seaed wth ether Tefon
tape or Tefon ppe |ont conpound. Carefu punbers
use both on every |ont for extra securty. They don't
want to have to cone back.
8tart by wrappng the nae threads wth Tefon tape
(Fhoto l). Wth the end of the threaded ppe facng you
as shown, wrap the tape cockwse. Usuay three ayers
s enough. Once n a whe, you' run nto a oose fttng
that requres four or fve wraps. 8tretch and tear the
tape to conpete the wrap.
8pread a thn ayer of Tefon ppe |ont conpound
over the tape (Fhoto 2). lf you're workng wth pastc
ppe, choose Tefon ppe |ont conpound that's conpat
be wth t. Then start the threads by hand before tght
enng the connecton wth wrenches (Fhoto 3). Wpe
away the excess.
TEFLON TAPE
THREADED
ADAPTER
TUBE OF
TEFLON PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
LAYER OF
PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
TEFLON TAPE
PLUS PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
1
3 2
LEAKPROOF PLUMBI NG CONNECTI ONS
1
TEFLON
PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
BRASS RING
(FERRULE)
NUT
Conpresson |onts are nost connon on shutoff vaves,
athough you fnd then on other fttngs as we. They
have a brass or pastc rng (ferrue) that's conpressed
nto a recess when you tghten the nut, fornng a sea.
Lubrcatng the ppe and the ferrue wth a bt of Tefon
ppe |ont conpound (Fhoto l) heps the ferrue sde
aong the ppe and squeeze tghty nto the recessed
fttng wth ess wrench pressure (Fhoto 2). Tghten
conpresson fttngs frny wth two wrenches to crnp
the ferrue onto the ppe (Fhoto 3). Aso nake sure the
ppe or tube goes straght nto the fttng. Msagnnent
w cause a eak. lf the fttng eaks after you turn on the
water, try tghtenng the nut an addtona onequarter
turn. Ths usuay stops the eak.
Lubricate the ferrule on compression joints
SHUTOFF
VALVE
BRASS
FERRULE
2
3
Align slip joints precisely
for a tight seal
Jonts on chrone trap assenbes rey on rubber sp
|ont washers for the sea, whch often eak. lf you're
reassenbng a chrone trap, buy new sp |ont washers
and nuts. However, new washers sonetnes stck to the
ppe, causng then to twst or dstort as you push then
tght wth the sp |ont nut. To avod ths, ubrcate the
dran tubng and sp |ont wth a tte ppe |ont con
pound (Fhoto l). The conpound heps the washer sde
snoothy and creates a tghter sea.
8tart the sp |ont nut by hand, and twst t on unt
the threads are engaged correcty. Handtghten a
|onts frst (Fhoto 2). Then ad|ust the trap parts unt
they're agned and ptched sghty for dranage. Ths s
key; a nsagned |ont w eak, even wth new washers.
Fnay, use a arge sp |ont pers to tghten the nuts an
addtona haf turn.
Fastc trap parts use hard pastc sp |ont washers
for a sea. Make sure the fat part s aganst the nut wth
the tapered sde facng the fttng.
Choose flexible supply tubes
The sknny copper or chrone suppy tubes used to
connect faucets and toets (Fhoto l) are trcky to cut,
bend and agn. But you don't have to put up wth then.
When you're repacng a faucet or toet, use fexbe
suppy hoses wth a braded cover
ng nstead (S3 to S6 each; Fhoto
2). They have rubber gaskets
at each end and don't requre
nuch force to sea. They're
avaabe n nany engths and
are fexbe enough to ft anost
any confguraton. The ony trck
s buyng a connector wth the cor
rect sze nuts on the ends. Take your od
tubng and the nuts on each end aong wth
you to the store to be sure of an exact natch.
8tart the nuts carefuy and handtghten. Then
tghten an addtona haf turn (Fhoto 2). Avod over
tghtenng. lt's easy to tghten the nuts a tte nore f
the |ont eaks.
1
SLIP
JOINT
NUT
SLIP
JOINT
WASHER
TEFLON
PIPE JOINT
COMPOUND
2
ASSEMBLED
SLIP JOINT
1
FAUCET
SUPPLY TUBE
(COPPER)
2
FAUCET
SUPPLY TUBE
(FLEXIBLE/
BRAIDED)
RUBBER
SEAL
LEAKPROOF PLUMBI NG CONNECTI ONS; SOLI D, NO-LEAK SOLDER JOI NTS
Buy a self-lighting torch for
safety and convenience
lf you have a reguar Sl0 torch, spurge on a fancy
node wth a butn ghter. They cost nore,
between S20 and S35, but boy, what a dffer
ence. Just pu the trgger to ght the fane.
No nore funbng wth a strker or natch.
And t's safer, too. You' no onger be
tenpted to eave the torch burnng
|ust to avod reghtng t. Now you
can turn t off when you set t down
and avod accdentay gntng
your bue |eans. ln addton to
the sefghtng feature,
ook for one that burns
MAFF gas. MAFF gas
produces a hotter
fane, whch s
better for so
derng arger
d a n e t e r
ppes (ln.
and arger)
a n d br a s s
va ves. Once
you're confortabe
wth how nuch
heat to appy for
a good soder
|ont, you can
swtch to MAFF
gas to speed
up a of your
s o d e r n g
|obs.
Solid, no-leak
solder joints
E
ven a pnhoe eak n a soderng |ob creates
a bunch nore work. But ucky, f you take a
nethodca approach and a tte extra care n
ceanng and fuxng the |onts, eaks n newy sodered
copper ppes are rare. 8oderng copper punbng
s a sk anyone can earn wth a tte practce. And
t doesn't requre a arge nvestnent n toos. Here
you' earn how to do a eakproof soderng |ob the
frst tne-and a few coo toos to nake the |ob qucker
and easer.
BUILT-IN
LIGHTER
Os, oxdaton and other
npurtes on the outsde
of ppes and nsde of ft
tngs prevent soder fron
stckng. To cean then,
you can use |ust about
anythng that's abrasve,
ncudng sandpaper and
enery coth. But for the
quckest, ceanest resuts,
buy a 4nl ceanng too
ke the one shown (S9).
Use t to cean the outsde
of ppes and the nsde
of fttngs for l2n. and
34n. copper.
4-IN-1
CLEANING
TOOL
CLEANS
INSIDE OF
FITTINGS
CLEANS
OUTSIDE
OF PIPES
Use a goodquaty tub
ng cutter (Sl5 to S25)
rather than a hacksaw.
You' be assured cean
cuts wth square ends
that ft neaty nto the
fttngs. The cuttng pro
cess eaves a sna burr
nsde the ppe. To avod
creatng undesrabe tur
buence nsde the ppe,
renove the burr wth the
fpout burr renover on
the cutter or wth a spe
ca pencshaped, burr
renovng too.
TUBING
CUTTER
After a thorough cean
ng, coat the ppe and ft
tng wth fux before heat
ng the |ont. Ths heps
soder fow nto the |ont.
You nay fnd two or three
knds of fux on the shef.
We reconnend tnnng
fux. lt contans a bt of
powdered neta aoy
that s snar to soder.
The aoy nets and coats
the nsde of the |ont and
heps ensure a soder
|ont that's conpetey
fed and eakproof.
FLUX
TINNING
FLUX
FLUX
BRUSH
FLUX
INSIDE OF
FITTING
Use a tubing cutter to cleanly cut copper pipes
Use a steel brush for complete cleaning of pipes and fittings
Apply tinning flux rather than regular flux
1/2"
PIPE
3/4"
PIPE
SOLI D, NO-LEAK SOLDER JOI NTS
Complete cleaning and proper fluxing
and soldering result in a joint like
this thats completely filled
with solder.
lf you don't heat the |ont enough, the soder won't fow
nto t. lf you heat the |ont too ong, you' burn the
fux (t' snoke and turn back) and nake t dffcut to
get the soder to fow nto the |ont.
Appyng |ust the rght anount of
heat cones wth practce, but t's
not hard to earn. Here's how: Lght
the torch and, f possbe, ad|ust the
torch unt the bue part of the fane
s about l to 2 n. ong (ths depends
sonewhat on the type of torch and
tp you use). Then poston the tp of
the bue part of the fane on the ft
tng and heat the |ont about fve sec
onds or unt the fux starts to bubbe
and szze.
Test the |ont by touchng the so
der to the sean on the sde opposte
the fane. When the copper s hot enough, the soder
w net ke butter. Move the fane away fron the |ont
and feed about l2 n. to 34 n. of soder nto the |ont.
The soder w fow nto a areas of
a propery ceaned and fuxed |ont.
Then to nake sure the |ont s con
petey fed, run the tp of the soder
qucky around the sean. lt's easer
to reach around the back sde of the
|ont f you bend a hook on the end of
the soder before you start.
lf the soder beads up and ros off
rather than fowng nto the |ont,
you've probaby burned the fux or
the copper sn't cean enough. You'
have to take the |ont apart to cean
and refux t before tryng agan.
Wth practce, you' know by fee when you've
successfuy sodered a |ont. The soder w fow
easy and conpetey around and nto the fttng.
But when you're |ust startng out, t's a good dea to
nspect the |onts for vods. A good soder |ont shoud
have an even band of soder showng a the way around.
lf you see an area that ooks as f t needs nore
soder, brush a tte fux onto the |ont. lf the
|ont s st warn, the fux w net and fow nto
the vod. Then reheat the |ont and resoder t.
We don't reconnend tryng to assenbe
the entre punbng run before start
ng to soder, but cuttng, sandng and
fuxng a groupng of ppes s a good
practce. lt aows you to accuratey cut
and ft the ppes before soderng. Wth
ths done, t's an easy natter to soder
the |onts one after the other. 8nce the
ppes are hed frny n poston, you
don't have to worry about accdentay
dsturbng a |ont before t's cooed.
LEAD-FREE
SOLDER
CLEANED
AND FLUXED
JOINT
Heat the joint just enough to melt the solder
NO
BUILDUP
FITTING
SOLDER
FILLS JOINT
Check to make sure the joint is filled
Assemble the pipes, then solder the joints all at once
PIPE
SUPPORT
LOOSEN slip nuts, then straighten
crooked pipes. Retighten metal nuts
with a slip-joint pliers. With plastic
nuts, hand-tighten first. If that
doesnt stop the leak, gently
snug up the nut with a pliers.
The washers that sea ppe |onts won't
hod water uness one secton runs
straght nto the other. The "ground"
|ont on the trap has no washer, but t
too w eak f t's nsagned. Eyeba the
eakng |ont to check ts agnnent. lf t's
crooked, snpy oosen the nut, straghten
the ppe and retghten. 8nce the whoe
assenby s nterconnected, you nght
nsagn one |ont whe straghtenng
another. Don't be surprsed f you end up
oosenng and tghtenng severa |onts to
straghten |ust one.
lf a |ont s agned but eaks anyway,
tghten the sp nut. Use two sp|ont
pers on neta ppes: one to hod the
ppe, the other to tghten the nut. lf you
have od neta ppe, you nght fnd that
t has worn thn and coapses when
you put a pers on t. Wth pastc ppe,
handtghten frst. lf that doesn't stop the
eak, use a pers. But be gente; pastc
threads are easy to strp.
CROOKED
JOINTS
SLIP NUT
Tighten connections and
straighten crooked pipes
The dranppe conng out of the wa has an adapter
on the end. Ths adapter has a washer and sp nut
and works |ust ke the other |onts n your dran
assenby. lf your dranppe s pastc you shoudn't
have any probens. But f your dranppe s od
gavanzed stee, you nght run nto corroson that
nakes the sp nut anost npossbe to oosen or
retghten.
Here's how to bypass those rusty od threads:
Unscrew the od sp nut. Cut t off wth a hacksaw f
you have to, but try not to cut deep nto the dran
ppe's threads. Buy a pastc trap adapter, a rubber
transton couper, a secton of pastc ppe and
cenent (Sl0 atogether). The ppe and adapter can
be FVC (whte) or AB8 (back); |ust be sure to get
the rght cenent for the type of pastc (FVC aso
requres purpe prner). Cenent the adapter to a
4n. pece of ppe and |on the pastc ppe to the od
neta ppe usng the rubber couper.
Install a new adapter on old steel pipe
STEEL
DRAINPIPE
RUBBER
COUPLER
PLASTIC
TRAP
ADAPTER
BADLY CORRODED
THREADS
CROOKED PI PES; I NSTALL A NEW ADAPTER; UNCLOG A MAI N DRAI N
Tr ee r oot s
wor k t he r
way through
c r a c k s o r
|onts n oder sewer nes nade of cay te, cast ron or other
ppng. Newer sewer nes, nade of pastc, don't suffer fron
ths proben. When a dran becones rootbound, t needs to be
reaned out usng a root saw, but the proben w soon recur
uness one of the foowng extra neasures s taken:
Dg up the od ne and repace t wth pastc.
To sow root growth, treat the dran wth poson fornuated to

k nearby roots.
8ea the ne by havng the exstng ppe ned wth an nterna

pastc fabrc and epoxy.
1
REMOVE the cleanout plug from the floor drain or cleanout.
Feed cable into the drain with the motor off until you cant
push any farther. Start and stop the motor using the foot switch
as you feed cable. Proceed slowly. Do not allow tension to build
up if the cable head stops and the cage continues to rotate. To
chew through the clog, tighten the cable-lock bolt and loosen
and feed cable as needed.
2
ATTACK the clog through the main drain cleanout, if
necessary. Correctly installed systems will ensure the snake
follows the correct path. Stubborn or stripped cleanout plugs
can be replaced with special friction-fit plugs.
lf a group of fxtures, or a foor dran, s backed up, you have a
cog n one of the nan dran nes. These cogs often requre that
you renove ceanout pugs and open the dran usng heavyduty
powerdrven augers. Fre
quenty these cogs forn
when tree roots penetrate
the nan dran or when cer
tan foregn ob|ects are sent
down the dran.
To cear the dran, you
can ca a professona or
rent a dranceanng nachne. Be carefu renovng the ceanout
pug-t nay reease a food of backed up wastewater, so be pre
pared wth buckets and rags.
CRACKED
GROUT
CLEANOUT
FLOOR DRAIN
SNAKE
SNAKE
END
CLOG
POWER AUGER
(SNAKE)
PVC DRAIN
CLEANOUT
PLUG
CABLE-LOCK
BOLT
FLOOR DRAIN CLEANOUT PLUG REMOVED
P-TRAP
LOCK
BOLT
CAST-IRON
DRAIN
FOOT SWITCH
Unclog a

main drain
C a u t i o n :
Never attempt to remove a
cleanout plug from, or run a
cable into, a drain that con-
tains chemical drain cleaner.
PENETRATING
ROOTS
CLAY
PIPE
MAIN FLOOR DRAIN REPAIRS
TOILET shutoff. This valve is usually on the cold-water supply
located underneath the tank.
FAUCET shutoff. Separate valves control the hot and cold water.
MAIN shutoff. This valve controls the flow of all water entering
the water-supply system.
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j^[ mWj[h$ikffbo ioij[c je h[ZkY[ ZWcW][ \hec W ikffbo b[Wa
eh je cWa[ h[fW_hi eh h[fbWY[ \_njkh[i% K^[ cW_d i^kje\\# m^[j^[h
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_j m_bb X[ d[Wh m^[h[ j^[ b_d[ b[Wl[i j^[ fh[iikh[ jWda% Pekbb Wbie
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WdZ ekjZeeh mWj[h b_d[i%
Emergency
shutoff valves
OUTDOOR SPIGOT SHUTOFF
CURB-
STOP
SHUTOFF
STREET-SIDE SHUTOFF
HOUSE-SIDE SHUTOFF
NhWfWhekdZ \eWc f_f[ _dikbWj_ed _i WlW_bWXb[ _d i[l[hWb
i_p[i% @j m_bb ^[bf cW_djW_d j^[ j[cf[hWjkh[ e\ mWj[h _d j^[
f_f[i# Xkj _j medj fhej[Yj f_f[i _d Wh[Wi fhed[ je bed]$
j[hc \h[[p_d]% K^[ _dikbWj_ed _i ifb_j je Wbbem _j je ib_f el[h
j^[ f_f[ WdZ Ykji [Wi_bo m_j^ W i[hhWj[Z ad_\[% K^[ _dikbW$
j_ed Wbie a[[fi mWhc# ^kc_Z W_h \hec YedZ[di_d] ed f_f[i#
ijeff_d] j^[ f_f[i \hec im[Wj_d] _d j^[ ikcc[h%
Install pipe
insulation
K^[ X[ij mWo je Z[Wb m_j^ W êb[ _d fbkcX_d] _i je h[fbWY[
j^[ i[Yj_ed e\ f_f[# Xkj W j[cfehWho \_n ^[bfi oek Z[Wb m_j^
[c[h][dYo b[Wai% =_hij# i^kj e\\ j^[ mWj[h ikffbo% E[nj# ib_j
W i[Yj_ed e\ êi[ eh W hkXX[h Yekfb[h# WlW_bWXb[ Wj ^WhZmWh[
ijeh[i# WdZ fbWY[ _j el[h j^[ êb[% =_dWbbo# i[Ykh[ j^[ hkXX[h
fWjY^ m_j^ êi[ YbWcfi% CWh][h êb[i m_bb h[gk_h[ ckbj_fb[
YbWcfi fbWY[Z i_Z[ Xo i_Z[%
Temporarily fix a
leaking pipe
RUBBER
PATCH
HOSE
CLAMP
SHUTOFF FOR
REFRIGERATOR
ICE MAKER
EMERGENCY SHUTOFF VALVES; PI PE I NSULATI ON; FI X A LEAKI NG PI PE; EASY WATER SOFTENER FI XES
Scoop out the mush at the bottom of the tank, then pour in hot
water to dissolve the rest before regenerating the system.
Clean the resin bed twice a year with resin bed cleaner (available
at water softener dealers) if you have clear water iron (dissolved
iron makes a glass of water turn cloudy or rusty after sitting for
several minutes). Otherwise the resin bed wont remove the iron.
Easy water softener fixes
Check for salt problems in the brine tank. Start by pushing a
broom handle down into the salt to break up salt bridges (like
a dome), blocking salt from dropping to the bottom of the tank.
If too little salt gets dissolved, the resin bed wont get clean and
the water wont get softened.
Also, when the salt level is low (or at least once a year),
check for a crust of salt mush at the bottom. This thick salt paste
doesnt dissolve well, reducing the salinity of the brine solution,
and needs to be removed.
Dont use rock salt; it contains dirt and other impurities that
can clog the softener.
SALT
MUSH
Is
your soft water not so soft anymore? You can often
fix the problem yourself. However, if you have an
older softener (20 years or more) and none of these
fixes work, it may need replacement ($500 and up).
All softeners, whether they have one or two tanks, work the
same way. As cold water flows through the resin tank, the min-
eral contentthe hardnessis removed because the minerals
stick to thousands of resin beads. When the softener recharges,
the flow of fresh water is stopped while salty water from the
brine tank is sucked into the resin tank, where it dissolves the
accumulated minerals and is flushed down the drain.
Before you tear apart your softener, check the control set-
tingsespecially after a long power outage. The timer clock
has to show the right time so that the resin tank is cleaned and
recharged when no one is using water (usually early morning).
Also make sure the hardness setting is still correctwell
water hardness can change over time. Bring a small container of
your water to a water softener dealer for a water hardness test,
then check the results against your settings.
Note: Set the water supply to bypass before working on the
softener. And run the hot water after you turn the softener back
on to flush out any hard water.
1
Look for
salt problems 2
Clean the
resin bed
Pour diluted resin cleaner into the brinewell tube. Lift out
the air check valve (or brine valve assembly) and clean it in
warm water.
RESIN BED
CLEANER
BRINEWELL
TUBE
AIR CHECK
VALVE
WATER SOFTENER REPAIRS
3
Clean the
venturi assembly
The salty water flows through these parts from
the brine tank to the resin tank. If the screen
and nozzle get clogged by sediment, the resin
bed wont be cleaned and the water will stay
hard (photos at right).
1
Remove the cap that covers the
venturi assembly and filter screen
and carefully remove the parts.
CAP
VENTURI
ASSEMBLY
IRON AND
MINERAL
DEPOSITS
SCREEN
Water heaters often work perfectly for a decade or more
without any care, so theyre easy to neglect. But a few
minutes of maintenance once a year pays off by extending
the tanks life span and maintaining your water heaters
efficiency and safety.
Before you do any maintenance, close the shutoff valve
on the cold water supply pipe that feeds the water heater.
Then turn on the hot water at any faucet to release the pres-
sure inside the heaters tank. Leave the faucet on until you
finish your work. If you have an electric heater, turn off the
power at the main panel. With a gas heater, turn
the gas control dial to off.
First, test the pressure-relief valve located
on the top or side of the water heater (Photo
1). This safety valve opens automatically if the
pressure inside the tank gets too high. (Excess
pressure can actually cause the tank to explode.)
If the valve doesnt release water when you lift
the lever, replace the valve ($13 at home centers
and hardware stores). Replacement is simple;
unscrew the discharge pipe and then unscrew
the old valve. Wrap the threads of the new valve
with thread sealant tape and screw it into the
tank. If your valve is several years old and has
never been tested, it might leak after you test it.
In that case, replace the valve.
Next, drain the tank to flush out sediments
that have settled to the bottom of the tank.
Sediment buildup adds to your energy bill by
reducing the efficiency of your water heater, and
shortens its life. Draining 2 or 3 gallons of water
is usually enough to flush out sediments, but
always let the water flow until you no longer see particles in
the bucket. Caution: The water is scalding hot.
Dont worry about any gurgling or groaning noises com-
ing from the heater; its just air entering the system as water
drains out. If the drain valve wont close tightly when youre
done, drain the tank completely, unscrew the old valve and
screw in a new one ($8). To restart the water heater, open
the shutoff valve and let the hot water run at any faucet to
purge air from the system. Then turn on the power or relight
the pilot.
Extend the life of your water heater
1
Place a bucket below the
discharge pipe and gently
lift the lever on the pressure-
relief valve to test it.
2
Open the drain valve slowly
and let the water run until
its clear and free of sediments.
Caution: The water is hot!
DISCHARGE
PIPE
PRESSURE-
RELIEF VALVE
DRAIN
VALVE
2
Gently clean dirt and mineral
deposits from the screen and
from the venturi assembly parts in
a pan of warm water.
SCREEN
FLOW PLUGS
FROM
VENTURI
ASSEMBLY
CAP
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EASY

Long tapeces (Fhoto l). The

A trap arn extender (Fhoto 2).

A dshwasher wye that has a con

A dsposer kt that aows the waste

You' have to cut a few ppes: both

When n doubt, nark and cut ppes a

Don't forget to nsert tapece wash

Assenbe everythng oosey unt the

Handtghten the sp nuts. lf any

When you're a done, test the assen

Dg up the od ne and repace t wth pastc.

To sow root growth, treat the dran wth poson fornuated to

8ea the ne by havng the exstng ppe ned wth an nterna

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