Rev: March 2010

DEFECT CLASSSIFICATION ZONES

When inspecting garments for cleanliness and fabric flaws, the location of the defect and its effect on the appearance and
performance of a garment must be taken into consideration. Size and severity also have an impact on the acceptability.
Defects which are noticeable on a garment but are not in the focal area of the garment may not be a cause for garment
rejection if the garments performance, fit or general appearance is not impaired. Our standard defect classification for all
merchandising categories; Fabric, Appearance, Color, Shade, Workmanship & Construction, Cleanliness and Packing is
classified using zones.
Zero Tolerance Zero Tolerance covers the entire garment and applies to any sharp objects or a chemical product
that poses a safety hazard to the customers. (Example: broken needles, sharp burrs/hardware, harsh chemical reaction to
the end user). Zero tolerance will be classified under CRITICAL defect.
CRITICAL DEFECT: A defect likely to result in a hazardous or unsafe condition for an individual using the product or fails
to meet Government mandatory regulations. One Critical Defect found during the inspection would cause the final QA audit
to fail. The failure will be resulting in a 100% inspection by factory to remove all critical defect items prior to re-inspection
again by a 3
rd
party auditor or PacSun QA Manager.
Zone A - Where the visual appearance of the garment is considered a MAJOR area of critical importance.
MAJOR DEFECT: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance including fit or customer satisfaction to a
degree that would provide a discerning customer with justification for no purchase, a return or complaint.
Zone B Where the visual appearance of the garment is considered a MINOR area of importance but not critical. This
is not as noticeable to the person wearing the garment or to an observer at first glance.
MINOR DEFECT: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major, and that would
not provide a discerning customer with justification for non-purchase, a return or complaint.
Counting of defects: When the number of defects is being recorded, a single defect is taken into account. In every
case it will be the most serious defect encountered by the individual sample being inspected regardless of the characteristic.
Example, when a garment being inspected contains both a Major defect and a Minor defect the most severe defect (Major
defect) will be classified a defect on the inspection report.
Minor defects will be tallied at the end of the inspection by using the formula: 3 minor defects =1 major defect.
e.g. If the inspectors totaled 10 minor defects on the visual report, the minors will be calculated using the formula above. In
this case 10 minors = 3 majors. All major defects will be added to the major defects list. Exceeding the allowed amount of
major defects will results in a failed inspection and must be 100% screen for all major defects encountered.
PACSUN DEFECT CLASSIFICATION
(IN-LINE & FINAL QUALITY INSPECTIONS)
GENERAL DEFECTS REV: 12/1/2010

FABRIC
ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
1). Drill holes or pin holes (any size) X
2). Visible knots, slubs, pilling and snags X X
3). Missing yarns X X
4). Fabric weight / oz different from PacSun approved sample X
5). Hand feel different from PacSun approved sample X
6). Skewed/bowed by + 1/4" X
7). Knitting/weaving defects/flaws X X
8). Misprint fabric /printing defects X
9). Washing marks (permanent creases) X X
10). Foreign matter / yarn contamination -Obvious X X
APPEARANCE, COLOR, SHADE ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
1). Shading or dye lot deviation within garment panels X
2). Shade or dye lot deviation from garment to garment within the shipment X
3). Color bleeding or staining
X
4). Plaids, checks, horizontal /vertical stripes not matching front within 1/8"
X
5). Plaids, checks, horizontal/vertical stripes not matching sideseams within 1/4" X
6). Interlining or fusible interfacing not compatible to base fabric causing
bubble or puckering
X
7). Misplaced embroidery/screen printing by more than 1/4" X X
8). Incorrect embroidery, color or silkscreen printing X
9). Embroidery /Silkscreen printing letters or symbols less than 90% legible X
10). Embroidery needle cuts X X
11). Embroidery /Silkscreen printing peeling or cracked X
12). Embroidery backing excessive
X
13). Twisted body/torque for T-Shirt exceeding 5%. X
APPEARANCE, COLOR, SHADE ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
14). Twisted legs over 1/2" (sideseam twist around to the front of pant) X
15). Uneven leg by more than 1/2"
X
16). Ribbons, piping, lace, bows and draw strings missing
X
17). Shine marks on the surface X
18). Bleach or stone marks on surface of garments X X
19). After wash streaks or striations (washing lines) X X
20). Press marks resulting from clamps used during chemical processing or hangers X
21). Pressing-poorly pressed garments X X
22). Pressing- absence of pressing when the seam, pleats or gatherings is specified to
the outside of the garment
X
23). Pressing-absence when seam is specified to the inside of the garment X
24). Panels- Misaligned front and back panel more than 1/4" X
25). Hi & Low Front pockets or flaps not to exceed 1/8" X
26). Hi & Low back pockets or flaps not to exceed 3/16" X
27). Back pocket smile over 1/8" X
28). Pockets /Flaps with asymmetrical corners, shapes or position X
29). Front & back pkts slanted or flaps slanted by more than 3/16" X
30). Mismatch pocket 4 way plaid not to exceed 1/8" X
31). Collar overlap not to exceed 1/8" X
32). Collar overlap on the bias not to exceed 1/4" X
33). Collar-point button hi-low over 1/8" X
34). Uneven cuff width over 1/8" X
35). Left & right sleeve uneven over 3/8" X
36). Seams twisted, puckered, or pleated affecting appearance X
37). Edge of flap, collar, cuff, placket rolled up X
38). Twisted cuff, lace, collar, turtle neck X
39). Beltloop slanting over 1/8" X
40). Beltloop opening up to +- 1/8" X
41). Locker loops, frt or centered beltloop misplaced by more than 1/4" from spec X
42). Beltloop sideseam off spec by more than 3/8" X
43). Beltloop unbalance ( hi -low) by more than 1/8" X
44). Beltloop missing fusing (inside) X
45). Inconsistent pleat depth- right vs. left over 1/8" X
APPEARANCE, COLOR, SHADE ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
46). Waistbands hi-low by more than 1/8" (button) X
47). Uneven waistband width by more than 1/8" X
48). Zipper tape exposed when the fly is closed X
49). Hardware insecure or missing (snaps, rivets, buttons, zipper slider) X
50). Uneven leg length between L & R not to exceed 1/2" (pants) and 1/4" (shorts). X
51). Misplaced rivets & buttons up to 1/8" X
52). Misaligned yokes at the back rise, frt rise not to exceed 1/8" X
53). Inconsistent zipper setting causing wavy zipper X
54). Side edge of pocket exposed from under side of flap up to 1/16" X
55). Shoulder tape missing by 1/2" X
56). Missing or broken loops (sweater) X
57). Loose floats (sweater) X
58). Dust & yarn ends on the inside & outside of garments (sweater) X
59). After wash hand feel different from PacSun approved standard X
60). Distorted garment from excessive stretching during pressing or wash X
61). Staining of pockets bags, garment or accessories during wet process (Re-Dip results) X
62). Any area of the garment with holes due to needles or scissors X
63). Holes due to abrasive wash (not approved by PacSun) X X
64). Wash Standard or color swatch outside of approved standard X
65). Pile direction not as specified X
66). Label missing or incorrect X
67). Sagging or rolling frt pockets X
68). Tread tension too tight that create excessive puckering on seams and hems X
69). Sweater should not have long float stitches that can be caught or broken when
worn. X
70). Sweater tensions too loose that reduces the recovery of shape X
71). Sweater tensions too tight adding weight and stiffness to garment X
72). Sweater, fleece or Knit tops with arm hole shape showing a slight curve or straight
instead of having a "S" shape. X
73). Sweaters, fleece or Knit tops with excesses fabric around the arm holes and pockets
due to over pressing or pulling. X
74). Sweaters, fleece or Knit tops peaking at shoulder point by more than 1/4" X
APPEARANCE, COLOR, SHADE ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
75). Sweaters, Fleece or Knit tops can not have shoulder seams fall back by
more than 1/4". X
76). Sweater, fleece, Knit tops must have center front, center back and sideseams
not pulling back or forward by more than 3/8". X
77). Sweaters, Fleece ,Knit or woven tops cannot hick by more than 1/2" X
78). Misaligned sleeve & sideseam junction up to 1/4" X
79). Trims materials with wrong color, width or shape
X
80). Burn or scorch marks X
WORKMANSHIP & CONSTRUCTION (SEAMS/STITCHING) ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
1). Lock Stitches- one broken or skipped per operation X
2). Lock Stitches- two or more broken or skipped per operation X
3). Skipped or broken chain stitch/overlock stitch X
4). Skipped or broken cover stitch one per operation X
5). Skipped or broken cover stitch two or more per operation X
6). Any unraveling, fray, raw edges or seams visible before and after wash X
7). Missing tacks and /or back stay stitch (unravels seam or loosen attachment) X
8). Stitch repair that is not sewn exactly stitch on stitch with an overlap of at least
four stitches at one end. X X
9). Improper stitch repairs -obvious X
10). Construction not conforming to spec (i.e. wrong seam type...) X
11). Ragged/Inconsistent edge (seam is extremely ragged or rolls inside the stitch) X X Minor-Inside seams
12). Wavy seams-stretch or non stretch fabrics X
13). Wrong color, type, size of thread X
14). Disappearing stitches in stretch denim (thread looks smaller on seams in wrap
direction than in the weft direction)
X X Major if a deco stitch.
15). Thread tension were it creates obvious puckering or loose stitching
X X
16). Loose stitching - obvious X
17). Run off stitches up to 1/4" X X
18). Ends of stitching not properly secured, tied in, caught in other seams, back-
stitched or tacked X
WORKMANSHIP & CONSTRUCTION (SEAMS/STITCHING) ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
19). Broken threads due to chemical degradation (harsh washes) X X unless specified on Tech Pack/spec
20). Broken threads due to chemical degradation at non-functional panel x X bk pkt hems, btm hems.
21). Broken stitches due to needle cutting ( wrong needle points, dull needles ) X X
22). Button hole incorrect direction/reversed X
23). Button hole too small or big for button type or diameter X
24). Button hole stitch broken or skipped X
25). Button hole slanted or off centered by more than 1/8" X
26). Insecure button sewing X
27). Loose or tight stitch tension of buttons & button holes X
28). Zipper tape/teeth not flushed to waistband more than 2 zipper teeth exposed X
29). Missing or wrong placement care instructions/symbols X
30). Elastic seams uneven X
31). Ribbons, piping, lace, bows and draw strings not secured to garment X
32). Label/s sewn with monofilament yarn
X unless specified on Tech Pack/spec
33). Stitches per inch (SPI) deviation of more than plus one or minus one X
34). Sweater /knitting not symmetrically balanced X
35). Sweater/Knitting yarn ends not dbl knotted/secure X
36). Sweater/Knitting yarns with yarns loose and not properly knitted/locked into seams X
37). Sweater/Knitting yarns not tucked into seams neatly. X
38). Knits tops not symmetrically balanced at neck opening, arm holes and frt panels X
39). Bartacks missing, incorrect size, non-secured X
40). Missing bar tacks, destruction holes, additional stitches for aesthetics purposes X
41). Edge stitch margin unevenness X
CLEANLINESS ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
1). Any tape, seconds stickers or soabar left on garments (any vendor /outside stickers not allowed) X
2). Any stains, spoilage, spots or oil 3/8" or less X X
3). Staples, pins or swift tacks left in garment X
4). Uncut sewing threads on the outside of garment exceeding 1/4" X
5). Uncut or attached threads on the inside exceeding 3/4" X
6). Chalk, pen or pencil marks visible X X
CLEANLINESS ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
7). Mildew or Heavily odor garments X
8). Spots & stains of a permanent nature or those that when removed leave a ring or other
ring surface marks anywhere on the garment X
9). Foreign matter - obvious (threads, fly yarns, debris sewn in) X X
10). Brass zipper, buttons, rivets leaving stains or contamination on product due to oxidation or
corrosion X
PACKING, LABELS, TAGS ZONE A ZONE B
MAJOR MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect Classification-
Zones Process)
1). Missing or Wrong placement or Incorrect carton stickers, hang tags, UPC tickets X
2). Incorrect folding /packing X
3). Damaged cartons, labels, hang tags X
4). Smeared barcodes or instructions X
5) . Insecure tape
X
6). Open or tampered cartons X
7). Incorrect size cartons X
8). Incorrect quantity in cartons X
REV: 12/1/2010
(SKIRTS)
(HOODIES)
(SWEATERS)
(LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS)
PACSUN DEFECT CLASSIFICATION - ZONES
* Zone B areas are identifed in below illustration;
All other areas = Zone A
2 B
2 B
t
o
E
lb
o
w
B 5
1

1
B t
o
E
l
b
o
w
B
5
1
B
1
t
o
E
l
b
o
w
B
5
1
B
1
to Elb
ow
B
5
1
1
B
t
o

E
l
b
o
w
B 5
1

1
B
to
E
lb
o
w
B
5
1
1
B
B
B
B
=Rib
Height
B
B
B
=Rib
Height
B
B
B
=Rib
Height
(Long Pants)
(Shorts-Capris-Bermudas-Cut Ofs)
(Cami-Tank Tops)
(Short Sleeve-Long Sleeve)
* Zone B will not apply to inseams that are shorter than Above the Knee
**All Other Inseam Lengths will follow the above illustration.
PACSUN DEFECT CLASSIFICATION - ZONES
* Zone B areas are identifed in below illustration;
All other areas = Zone A