The ZeroFossilFuel Rocket Stove Heater

Theory of operation and assembly details.

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$et me start this document by sayin# that" if you intend to replicate my Rocket Stove" it is hi#hly
unlikely that any t%o replications %ill be e&actly alike. That is as it should be because" if no one tried
anythin# ne%" development %ould cease and there %ould never be any pro#ress. 'f you(ve #ot an idea
that you think %ill improve on my desi#n" build it) 'f it %orks" please share it)
*hat ' %ill do here as best ' can is take you throu#h the steps ' %ent throu#h to determine all of the
critical dimensions for buildin# your o%n stove based on the ra% materials you may have found or
bou#ht. The photos in this +,F document are fairly hi#h resolution so they can be -oomed in to see
finer details.
So what is a Rocket Stove Mass Heater?
There is a %ealth of information re#ardin# Rocket Stoves all over .ouTube and the %eb" and numerous
variations on the basic desi#n. ' encoura#e you to do some research. /ood places to start are
http011%%%.richsoil.com1rocket2stove2mass2heater.3sp and http011%%%.ernieanderica.info1rocketstoves.
'n the strictest sense" it is #enerally a %ood fired heater %ith an internal flue or riser" covered by a
barrel of some sort %ith a lon# e&haust pipe that runs throu#h a cob 4mi&ture of clay and stra%5 thermal
mass %hich acts as a heat battery" #ivin# off stored heat in bet%een burns usually bet%een evenin#s and
mornin#s %hen family are asleep and you don(t %ant to be burnin# %ood then any%ay. 6ey benefits of
a Rocket Stove over traditional %ood stoves are0
7s little as 10 the consumption rate for the same effective heatin# to your livin# space"
8irtually no smoke or carbon mono&ide byproducts" 3ust carbon dio&ide and steam"
8ery little ash buildup %ith easy clean2out.
8ariations on the desi#n include the 9+ocket Rocket: 4'(m not terribly impressed %ith these5 and mini
Rocket Stoves intended for cookin#. ' %ill not discuss either of these here in any detail because neither
of them conform very %ell to the ori#inal concept despite that they %ere named Rockets. 6ey features
that truly define a Rocket Stove are0
8ertical %ood inlet to a small firebo&"
Hori-ontal burn chamber"
'nsulated internal flue or riser"
7 drum or barrel over the riser for #ases to cool and #ive off heat"
7n e&haust at the bottom that often e&tends throu#h a cob bench to slo%ly store ; release heat.
How does it work?
8ery %ell" thank you.
<kay" kiddin# aside" any %ood stove needs to create a draft to pull air into the firebo& for the %ood to
burn. The avera#e %ood stove sends =0> or more of the heat created by the fire up the chimney flue
and out" #ivin# off only left over radiant and convection heat transferred to the body of the stove and
into the room.
7 Rocket Stove" by contrast" is able to scaven#e almost all of that previously %asted e&haust heat
%ithout buildup of creosote or other deposits. Here(s ho%.
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*hen a fire is started in the firebo& of a Rocket Stove" all it should take is a puff of breath or t%o do%n
over the firebo& to #et the hot #ases to start travelin# throu#h the short hori-ontal burn tube and up the
internal riser. <nce they start up%ard in the riser the process becomes self sustainin#. Here is %here the
Rocket truly differs.
All of the draft necessary to make a well designed Rocket Stove function properly is
created inside the internal riser.
' cannot stress this point enou#h. From the moment the #ases e&it the top of the riser and do%n the
sides of the barrel they be#in to cool. The draft created by the riser behind the coolin# #ases should be
so stron# that" not only does it pull in fresh air behind it" it also pushes e&haust #ases out ahead of it
%ithout the need for any additional draft created by a typical chimney flue. This is %hy it is so critical
that the internal riser 4and even the hori-ontal burn tube5 be as insulated as you can practically make it.
?y so doin# it0
@reates a super stron# draft in a very small space and
+rovides the environment for secondary burn of any unburned #ases
Some say it creates a plasma burn but that(s 3ust not possible at the temperatures %e(re dealin# %ith
here. Aven still" the combustion is complete and that(s %hat counts. Smoke and odor are byproducts of
incomplete combustion. 7 %ell desi#ned Rocket Stove produces virtually no smoke or odor at all" has
very lo% flue temps #oin# outside and e&chan#es most of its heat into the livin# space.
So where do I start?
7t the be#innin#" of course. ,uh)
<kay" kiddin# aside a#ain" the first thin# you(ll need is the tools 4or at least access to them5 and skills to
use them. They include0
Bi# %elder 4flu& core is fine or #as if you can afford it5
Sheet metal bendin# brake. Bine is !0:.
Tin snips.
7n#le #rinder %ith #rindin# %heel and cuttin# disks.
,ry%all sCuare.
2: bubble level
Sharp indelible marker.
De&t consideration is overall si-e. 7sk yourself 9Ho% bi# of a livin# space do ' need to heatE: 'n my
case it %as 3ust a 2F0 sC2ft %ell insulated %orkshop %ith about 2G0 cu2ft of air space. So" ' scaled
do%n the overall si-e accordin#ly from typical %hole house heaters that use !0 or GG #allon drums.
*hile scaven#in# throu#h a couple of scrapyards ' stumbled across a discarded H #allon air
compressor tank. +ARFA@T) So...
Step 1. ind your own perfect !arrel" drum or tank.
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This compressor tank for me %as the ideal
choice. Dot only %as it the ri#ht
appro&imate si-e" it %as ru##ed havin#
1=: thick side%alls. By tank measured
2: diameter and about !H: lon#. <ther
possibilities include discarded electric hot
%ater tanks" artesian %ell %ater stora#e
tanks" slim propane cylinders" stacked and
%elded 20lb propane tanks" etc. ?e
ima#inative.
Then ' asked myself 9Self" %hat diameter
riser could my tank supportE: *ith a
basic understandin# of cross2sectional areas reCuired to make this stove ' fi#ured anythin# from H: 2 I:
diameter %ould be #ood. This %ould leave a #ap all the %ay around bet%een 2.G: 2 .G: respectively. 'n
all honesty even 0: %ould fit and : #ap #oin# around %ould be plenty for the e&haust #ases to e&it
freely. ' settled on =: because it %as convenient and readily available.
Step #. $etermine the internal si%es of your riser" !urn
tunnel and feed tu!e.
@ollectively this is kno%n as the J2Tube. 7 typical GG #allon drum
heater desi#n uses a =: inside diameter riser. 7 typical !0 #allon
drum heater uses a K: inside diameter riser. Therefore" '
e&trapolated that mine should be about F:. ' had read about others
%ho had tried makin# F: systems %ith mi&ed results. @onfident
that ' could make it %ork ' for#ed ahead despite the naysayers.
' kne% that ' %as #oin# to use some sort of firebrick for the
firebo& and hori-ontal burn tube. By first concept for the riser
%as to use a F: & 2F: #alvani-ed vent pipe as the inside %all of
the riser %ith a K: & 2F: #alvani-ed vent pipe for the outside %all
and : of fiber#lass insulation in bet%een. Several people
e&pressed %hat ' later decided %ere valid concerns over this
choice ' had made. They %ere0
Amission of poisonous #ases from the -inc #alvani-in#
burnin# off"
Short life span from rapid rottin# under the e&treme heat"
Beltin# of the fiber#lass %ool.
*ith the su##estions from others and kno%in# that many Rocket Stove builders use firebrick for their
risers too" ' decided to %ork throu#h the desi#n usin# firebrick as a liner and retain the #alvani-ed pipe
outer %all. To do so ' %anted a cross2sectional area as close to a F: round pipe as ' could #et %hich is
2.GK sC2in. ?ricks arran#ed to #et !.G: & !.G: sCuare tube ended up bein# 2.2G sC2in. @lose enou#h
for #overnment %ork. The final dra%in# illustrated belo% sho%s e&actly ho% ' arran#ed my bricks to
achieve this openin# si-e.
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Averythin# else about the internal dimensions is all about ratios and cross2sectional areas. 'n a nutshell"
the cross2sectional area that the hot #ases must pass throu#h should be the same or increase sli#htly at
every point alon# the path %ith the e&ception of the area bet%een the riser and inner tank %all %hich is
often much #reater. So" startin# %ith my riser of !.G: & !.G:0
Hori-ontal burn tube area should be L or M the riser. Bine is !.G* & !.2GH 4.!HG sC2in5
Firebo& openin# also should be L or M riser but not L than the burn tube. Bine is !.G: & !.2G:
7rea at the top of the riser should be bet%een .G& to 2& the area of the riser itself.
7rea of the e&haust port should not be L area of the riser. Bine of F: round or 2.GK sC2in.
The area at the top of the riser is calculated by the circumference of the '.,. & distance to the top of the
barrel. Bine is !.G: & F & 2: or 2= sC2in" a hair over 2& the riser area. <nce the #ases spill over the top"
the cross2sectional area #oin# do%n is the 2: tank minus the =: riser outer %all. ! sC2in minus G0
sC2in M K! sC2in. Then the final e&it out the e&haust port at the bottom.
<ther ratios that should be observed are0
Riser hei#ht should not be L !& the hei#ht of the firebo& tube" 2& the len#th of the hori-ontal
burn tunnel" or & the hori-ontal burn tunnel plus the feed tube. Bore is better here.
By riser is about F& the len#th of the burn tunnel or the feed tube" each measured at the shortest
dimension.
The lo%er portion of my J2tube %as first si-ed up
by stackin# fire bricks in different confi#urations
on my bench top until ' %as happy %ith the ratios.
Startin# %ith the firebo& feed tube a#ainst the
tank outer %all or very close" ' made sure the burn
tunnel %as lon# enou#h to center the riser in the
tank. The dimensions for me seemed to 3ust fall
into place by themselves. .ou may or may not be
so lucky dependin# on %hat si-e tank you end up
%ith. The point is be a%are of placement for all
components %ithin the tank as you e&periment %ith brick layout. 't(s not a terrible thin# to place the
riser off center in the tank if you must. Just be a%are that more heat %ill radiate from the side %ith the
#reatest #ap bet%een the riser outer %all
and tank inside %all. There is one very
special rabbit cut ' had to make for
everythin# to fit to#ether precisely as seen
to the ri#ht and in the dra%in# belo%.
By bricks are all assembled free floatin#
inside a %elded heavy sheet metal
enclosure that is open at the top at both
ends. <nce ' kne% the outside dimensions
of my bricks ' added 1=: all around and
used that as the inside dimensions for the
brick enclosure. +ictures are %orth a thousand %ords here.
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By brick riser is three #roups of F firebricks
locked into place %ith a small bead of furnace
cement alon# all inside ed#es of each #roup
formed %here they overlap. The three #roups are
not cemented to each other. They simply sit atop
each other. Dotice in the dra%in# belo% that the
middle #roup 425 is a mirror of 4"!5. This %as
done so that brick seams crisscross each other
%hen stacked instead of ali#ned parallel. This
inherently reduces the tendency for #ases to
escape %here they ou#ht not. To keep them
ali#ned %hile the furnace cement almost fully cured ' simply strapped them usin# rubber bands and
maskin# tape around a uniform F&F piece of lumber 4%hich actually measures !.G: & !.G:5 then tapped
them out" set the bricks upri#ht and allo%ed the furnace cement to finish curin# overni#ht.
The ne&t step %as to cut my tank. ' kne% ' needed t%o thin#s
That the top of the burn tunnel cover be perfectly flush %ith the top lip of the lo%er section and
That ' %anted 2: spacin# bet%een the top of my brick riser to the top inside of the tank.
7ll ' did %as assemble all the bricks to my lo%er brick carrier" stack the
three riser sections" measure from the top ed#e of the riser to the top of
the top burn tunnel metal cover" add 2: and %ith a dry%all sCuare mark
that point on the side of the tank every couple of inches from the top.
That ended up bein# e&actly 0: from the bottom.
The ori#inal platform for the compressor that %as %elded to the side of
the tank %as cut off and reused as the base to hold it vertical. 7 bubble
level %as used to ensure the tank %as plumb before %eldin# the ne% base
into place.
The openin# for the metal firebo& enclosure needed to be a close fit at K
; 1=: so ' cut it K: & K:" #round it slo%ly to fit" then tack %elded it in !
spots on each side and t%ice across the bottom to secure it into place.
$ike%ise" a bubble level %as used to ensure the bo& %as level so the riser
%ould stand strai#ht in the center of the tank before %eldin# it into place.
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'n this photo '(ve tack %elded the
fire brick carria#e into the sCuare
openin# cut into the lo%er tank half.
Dotice ho% %ell centered the riser is
inside the diameter of the tank. *ith
the top half assembled it 3ust brushes
up a#ainst the front feed tube brick.
7lso notin# that the burn tunnel top
cover plate is as flush to the top ed#e
of the lo%er tank half as ' could #et
it. The fiber#lass rope %ill be #lued
all the %ay around to seal the top
half %hen assembled.
Here '(ve cut the F: openin# for the
lo%er e&haust port" added 2 supports
to the brick carrier corners and F $2
brackets made from small pieces of
!1F: an#le iron. They %ere drilled
first and preassembled to their upper
mates %ith threaded rod. The top
half of the tank %as set into place"
then the $2brackets %ere %elded.
This helped %ith positionin# and
ensured they %ere vertical so that the
top half %ould slide freely off the
lo%er threaded rod studs. To the
ri#ht you also see ' tack %elded
more !1F: an#le iron to make a flan#e that the
burn tunnel end cap bolts to. The intent %as to
make the bricks entirely serviceable.
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Here is a closeup of the e&haust port
starter pipe ' made from a dryer vent
adapter pipe. +refab units %ere not
deep enou#h to accommodate the
curvature of the tank. The pipe %as
inserted into the cut openin# first. 7
line %as marked around the pipe to
follo% the curvature of the tank
%all. Then slits %ere cut every 12:
or so all the %ay around up to the
line creatin# tabs. <nce inserted
a#ain the tabs are bent over to hold
in place and cemented %ith furnace
cement. The t%o braces for the brick
carrier bo& ' felt %ere necessary due to the rather thin material ' used to make it. This portion of the
stove is the hottest and the riser stack is Cuite heavy. Aven if the metal softens a little" '(m not %orried it
%ill sa#. 7#ain" your construction may vary. 'f ' %as to do it a#ain '(d probably make the brick carrier
bo& entirely from 1=: thick plate steel %elded all the %ay alon# the seams" ad3ustin# the si-e and
placement of my sCuare openin# on the lo%er tank half accordin#ly.
*ith the first riser stack on top of
the lo%er section" ' slid the =: riser
outer %all pipe over it" marked the
locations %here the brick carrier
corners touched and notched it %ith
tin snips to #et past the corners and
sit flush atop the brick enclosure. 'f '
%as to do it a#ain '(d make the top
rim of the bo& flush %ith the burn
tunnel cover so ' %ouldn(t have to
notch the =: pipe at all.
Here(s a look do%n inside the =: #alvani-ed vent pipe at the
st #roup of F riser bricks. 'nternal #roups are stacked one at
a time. Fiber#lass is stuffed do%n bet%een the brick and
pipe %ith a thin piece of %ood trim" 2: ruler" %hat ever you
have on hand. Hi#her sections are simply held to#ether by
#ravity" friction and fiber#lass" centered by the =: #alvani-ed
vent pipe a#ainst the corners of the bricks. The bricks do not
cave in because of the lip created by the furnace cement.
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7t the left is the completed
riser %ith all three sections.
The metal strap at the top is
bent rou#hly I0N every =.G:
into an overlappin# sCuare"
then scre%ed throu#h the =:
vent pipe to hold it in place
like a halo. This keeps the
riser centered should the
tank be tipped. @orner to
corner is 3ust under 2:.
7t the ri#ht is the same vie%
%ith the top half of the tank
assembled. Dotice that the
brick a#ainst the tank is
raised sli#htlyE 't(s because
a bevel has not yet been
made to allo% clearance for
the fiber#lass rope that seals
the t%o tank halves.
This is a closeup of the fiber#lass
rope sho%n #lued to the top tank
half. ' later chan#ed this desi#n
because the rope kept #ettin# hun#
up on and ripped off by the threaded
rods %hen ' lifted the top half off for
service. ' later #lued it to the bottom
half %hich %orked out much better.
And now the fun part. &ime to fire it up'
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(AH)))))''' irst test fire was a total success'
Time to position it inside and finali-e the installation.
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Here '(ve laid out the location for my Rocket Stove %ith
concrete brick pavers. The bench ultimately #ets moved
further left to a safer distance from the stove. The %all
corner is protected by t%o sheets of !( & G( cement board"
secured to the %alls %ith nails throu#h !1=: thick %ood
trim standoffs to insulate them from the %alls. They are
also .G: off the floor to allo% cool air from the floor to
enter behind the boards throu#h convection releasin# even
more of the captured radiant heat into the room.
To determine the hei#ht of the flue pipe throu#h hole '
assembled a standard len#th F=: section of vent pipe to the
T at the back of the stove then the I0N an#le at the top and
let it rest a#ainst the %all. The actual location is a bit left
of %here you see it here because a stud %as available to
scre% my thimble plate to. By flue pipe thimble is made
from t%o plain F: vent pipe %all plates and a section of
K: vent pipe cut 2: lon#er than the %all thickness
includin# the dry%all and outside sidin#. $ike the tank
e&haust starter pipe" slits are cut to create tabs all the
%ay around" fanned out to hold in place on both sides.
The outside plate %as scre%ed to the sidin# first" then a
2F: hori-ontal section passed throu#h and : thickness
of fiber#lass stuffed in to create dead air space and seal
out drafts. The inside plate #ets slipped over the vent
pipe and scre%ed to the dry%all. The three left hand
scre%s all catch the stud and the others use dry%all
mollys.
Some%here alon# the line throu#h this ne&t series of
photos ' spent several days strippin#" #rindin# and %ire
brushin# the heavy red po%der coat paint off the top
half of the tank and resprayed %ith hi#h temp flat black.
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The flue pipe is completed on the outside %ith one
last I0N bend up%ard and another F=: vertical pipe
%ith a rain cap. The photo sho%s only a 2F:
vertical piece but that %as later made lon#er to
elevate the rain cap 3ust above the roof peak. 't is
held stable %ith t%o straps scre%ed into the vent
pipe and to the soffit fascia board.
?ecause this is not actual double %all insulated
%ood stove flue pipe %hich is 8AR. e&pensive"
and because the Rocket Stove produces so much
steam" condensation inside the pipe before the
e&haust #ases #et out the top is a real problem.
*ithout a %ay to drain them out they %ould
literally flo% back into the inside vent pipe" pool in
the bottom of the T and drain out onto the floor) To
address this %hat ' did %as tilt the hori-ontal pipe
do%n%ard sli#htly 4only 22! de#rees5 and drill a
!1K: drain hole in the bottom 3ust before the I0N
elbo%. That %ay condensation drains out" not in. 7lso note that ' took #reat care to ensure that all vent
pipe seams %ere sealed %ith either aluminum vent
pipe tape or furnace cement %here appropriate.
'n an ill fated attempt to #reatly e&tend burn times
bet%een feedin#s ' made up this %ire loop frame from a
piece of !1F: flat bar and some coat han#er %ire %elded to
the bar. This %orked fine for precut lumber but not so %ell
for irre#ular lumber and dead tree limbs.
' %as also still not happy at this point %ith ho% Cuickly '
%as able to %arm up the room. *ood stoves need air to
burn. That air has to come from some%here. *ithout a
controlled fresh air inlet the only other place it can come
from is cracks around doors" %indo%s and outlets because
of the ne#ative pressure it creates in the room. From there
it cools do%n the livin# space first before it finds its %ay
to the firebo&. So...
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Mod *1 + resh air inlet.
$uckily for me the shed is a raised structure. 7ll ' had to
do to relieve most of the ne#ative pressure created by the
stove and brin# in fresh air %hen and %here ' %anted it
%as to pop a !21F: hole into the floor %ith a hole sa%. '
then ran a !: fle&ible aluminum vent pipe up to a shroud
around the feed tube that doubled as a small %ood hopper.
This also confines the inlet air over the firebo& %here it is
immediately sucked do%n for combustion rather than
circulatin# throu#h the room first.
' believe this is a key point that many Rocket Stove
builders miss. The inlet air should enter do%n and around
the %ood in the feed tube" not from an inlet do%n lo%
directly into the firebo& burn area. *ithout a lot of
do%n%ard air flo%" radiant heat and hot #ases in the
firebo& are allo%ed to rise up%ard" #asify the sticks in the
hopper and can actually start smokin# and burnin# into the
room) .ou may have seen my mishap video. 't(s not pretty.
@ementin# the shroud to the top of the firebo& feed tube
%as a mistake because ' still need it to be removable for
cleanin# out ash. 7ddin# the fresh air inlet %as a bi# boost
for heatin# efficiency but ' still %anted more. So...
Mod *# + Radiator
fins
This is simply t%o =( pieces of aluminum roofin# drip ed#e cut
into 22 sections 0.G: lon# each" corners #round out to allo% a
lar#e stainless steel hose clamp to pass throu#h" sprayed flat black
and clamped around the top of the tank. This one mod alone
added almost H00 more sC2in of radiatin# surface area" droppin#
flue temps at the %all about F0NF and makin# it difficult to #et
the top of the tank any hotter than G00NF" %hereas ' %as #ettin#
almost H00NF. Do% '(m happy %ith the efficiency.
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$aily operation
't takes about !0 minutes to #et my stove up to temperature. From there it raises my 2G0 cu2ft of shop
space about G220NF1hour. ?ased on rate of temperature rise and heat losses throu#h four e&terior %alls
it is estimated that my stove is puttin# out bet%een !0"000 and !G"000 ?TO1hour. 't does this %ith a
%ood consumption rate of only about H0 cu2in1hour.
$oadin# the %ood is a bit of an art and takes a little practice. The main idea is to put enou#h %ood in
the hopper to produce enou#h heat but not so much that you choke off air flo% and not so close to each
other that flames can travel up%ard bet%een sticks. ' also find the sticks do not al%ays self feed but
need a sli#ht nud#e every so often to #et them to drop do%n. Still thinkin# about that one.
For ri#ht no%" to clean out ash ' have reduced the number of scre%s on the front feed tube cover from H
to !" tacked the heads from behind and put %in# nuts on the front. ' lift the air inlet shroud off" spin off
the %in# nuts remove the metal plate and the front brick. Then ' reach in %ith a hoe ' made from a
scrap piece of drip ed#e and the !1F: flat iron bar that ' took off the %ood hopper. ' can run the stove 22
! days bet%een cleanin#s but" ideally" it should be cleaned every day. The only ash that #ets any further
than the burn tunnel itself is e&tremely minimal" super li#ht and fluffy. Baybe once a month '(ll lift off
the upper tank half and suck out the remains. So far ' have not even had to do it once.
Still ahead ' definitely %ant to add a better ash collection and clean2out" and very possibly a %ood
pellet hopper and feeder. ' 3ust don(t %ant to use an electric au#ur feeder because %hat happens if
there(s no po%erE 7nd %ith #ravity feeders ' %orry about it burnin# back%ard into the hopper. Baybe a
sprin# loaded hand crank that can run several hours bet%een cranksE
Still thinkin#. 7l%ays thinkin#.
' hope '(ve #ot you thinkin# too) ?etter yet" buildin#)
+lease share this document freely %ith everyone you kno% and if you found it useful"
please drop a fe% dollars in my tip 3ar at +ay+al. Thanks.
7ll the best"
Z
7nd of course the reCuisite disclaimers P The information contained herein is for informational use only. The buildin# and use of items described herein
may constitute a violation of your local and1or state codes and re#ulations. The reader holds harmless ZeroFossilFuel and his family" friends" heirs" partners
and assi#ns" and assumes all risk and liability for their use of this information.
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20! ZeroFossilFuel This document may be freely distributed" only free of char#e and unedited.