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10 October, 2014

7625 Fairplay Rd
Benton, AR 72019
American Beekeeping Federation
3525 Piedmont Road, Building 5, Suite 300
Atlanta, Georgia 30305
3525 Piedmont Road, Building 5, Suite 300
Dear American Beekeeping Federation:
Thank you for the opportunity to research the effects of Hive Beetles and Mites and find a
safe solution. Enclosed is my final report, Recommendation for Hive Beetles and Mites in
Beehives. In this report, I recommend safe in-hive traps without the use of harmful
chemicals and poisons.
If I need to provide any other helpful information in my report, please contact me with
suggestions to better the report. I look forward to hearing from you about your thoughts. I
hope this report is useful in your research.
Yours truly,
Gabe Richard, Sophomore, University of Arkansas at Little Rock

Recommendation for Hive Beetles and Mites in Beehives

For
American Beekeeping Federation
3525 Piedmont Road, Building 5, Suite 300
Atlanta, Georgia 30305

By
Gabe Richard
University of Arkansas at Little Rock
Construction Management

October 10, 2014

Table of Contents

Abstractiii
Introduction1
Body.1
Colony Collapse Disorder.1
Hive Beetles..1
Mites..2

Conclusion...3
Recommendation3
References..4
Appendix..4

Abstract
The purpose of this report is to assess the habits of hive beetles and mites and to
recommend, based on studies and preferences, that using in-hive traps and good
maintenance practices without the use of chemicals is the best solution. Studies have
shown several traps to be successful against these pests. This report recommends the
Hood trap to fight both hive beetles and mites as well good maintenance practices which I
have proposed at the end of the report.

Introduction
The agriculture industry thrives on honey bees. Without bees, crops wouldnt produce as
well and flowers wouldnt bloom. Anything that pollinates would struggle to produce. Include
the delicious honey that bees make and they become a favorite, except for the stinging.
However, honey bees struggle with many problems, the biggest might possibly be Colony
Collapse Disorder (CCD). Many factors have a hand in CCD, but two of the most potent are
the effect of tiny pests called hive beetles and mites. These creatures thrive off honey and
brood, ultimately killing millions of bees every year. The quickest and easiest fix would be to
put chemicals in the hive, but beekeepers risk getting poison in the honey. This report
focuses on the life cycle and tendencies of hive beetles and mites through research of
professional beekeepers and scientists. It concludes with recommending in-hive, chemicalfree traps such as the Hood trap to help protect bee-hives from the effects of CCD.
Body
Colony Collapse Disorder
In 2006, Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD) became relevant across America and other
parts of the world. The disorder wiped out beehives, leaving bees dead in the middle of
fields. Scientists have looked in several directions for answers, but not one definite answer
is given. Some of the major causes were use of pesticides, the Varroa mite, hive beetles,
and the lack of proper care for some beekeepers. Every year, beekeepers lose a certain
amount of their hives just from natural occurrences, but since 2006, those numbers have
increased. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, large commercial
beekeepers reported unusually high losses of colonies ranging from 30%-90% (para. 3).
Numbers like this could be detrimental to the bee industry and the agriculture economy as a
whole. Just a few extra check-ups on hives a year could make the difference between
losing or keeping hives.
The United States Department of Agriculture suggest good management practices and
supplemental feeding when honey is scarce. They also warn the public not to use
pesticides during day hours when bees are most likely to be gathering pollen for honey
(Para. 36-38). Combine these practices with traps and techniques and most beekeepers will
do a good job fighting against pests and diseases commonly known with CCD.
Hive Beetles
Small hive beetles are one of the bigger problems in the bee industry. Beetles may not be
the sole problem related to CCD, but are a huge reason why beekeepers struggle to
maintain healthy hives. James D. Ellis and Amanda Ellis from the University of Florida state
that small hive beetles like to enter into a hive through an entrance or opening somewhere
and hide in corners and crevices. Female hive beetles will lay eggs in the brood or pollen,
and even in cracks. Once the eggs hatch, beetle larvae will find a food source like pollen or
honey, but preferably brood. Larvae will feed anywhere from 10 days to over a month. Once
through feeding, larvae will look for adequate soil to pupate in. After about three to four
weeks of pupating, the larvae will emerge as a fully grown hive beetle and start the whole
process again (Small Hive Beetle, Para. 7-11).

Beekeepers can combat small hive beetles in many ways. They can choose from a variety
of mechanical traps, or choose the fastest and easiest option, chemicals. However, when
using chemicals, there is a risk of mixing it with the honey. Mechanical traps dont have this
risk. These traps will take longer to apply to hives, but are much safer. For example, one
trap that I have seen is a bottom with a built in tray and a wire mesh just big enough for the
beetles to fall through. The tray can be pulled out and filled with oil or any other agent of
choice. The beetles will go towards the bottom of the hive and fall in the oil and die.
Michael Hood from Clemson University developed the Hood beetle trap. This trap is a
frame thats separated into three compartments. In the middle compartment, beekeepers
will place an attractant like apple cider vinegar, which Hood suggests. In the two outer
compartments can be placed food-grade mineral oil, or any other agent that will kill
beetles. The beetles will fall in the oil while trying to reach the attractant and die. The frame
is placed on one of the farthest sides of the bee box since beetles like to hide in corners and
crevices (Para. 17).

Mites
Mites are another tiny pest that affect beehives and can potentially kill hives altogether.
According to James D Ellis and C.M. Zellel Nalen, a mite likes to latch itself onto the backs
of bees and eat bee hemolymph. These actions can harm an adult bee but dont usually kill
it. Mites will stay latched onto worker bees until the mites are ready to lay eggs. Once the
mite is ready, it will crawl down into an uncapped cell in which a bee larvae has been laid.
The bees will cap the cell and the mite will feed on the larvae and lay her own eggs. As
soon as the eggs hatch, a mite will feed on bee larvae until the larvae turns into a bee and
hatches itself. When the infested bee is hatched, it will be deformed in some way, usually
with an undeveloped wing. This deformity is bad for the bee as they will need to fly to collect
pollen later in their life (Varroa, Para. 6-19).
Although mites can reproduce in worker brood, they are three times more successful in
drone brood since it has a longer postcapping period, according to Randy Oliver. Oliver
says that female mites prefer drone brood by a factor of roughly 10 to 1 (Para. 3). Keeping
drone brood to a minimum is most effective. Oliver also says that beekeepers can keep
drone brood to about 4% by using worker-sized foundation and culling old combs.
Studies have also shown that reducing drone brood from 4% to just 3.2% can reduce the
mite population up to 25% (Para. 5). Using these tendencies, we can create a trap that
draws mites to the drone brood. A frame with an open section and no wax foundation will
usually be made into drone brood. After the bees fill the frame with drone brood, the
beekeeper can cut out the drone comb, thus removing any mites in that section of drone
brood. The Hood trap stated earlier can also double as a Hive beetle trap and Mite trap by
leaving an open section in the frame for drone comb to be created and cut out later.
Some faster and easier examples are sticky screens and powdered sugar dusting. Sticky
screens are essentially cardboard with a sticky surface and a wire mesh big enough for
mites to fall through but small enough so bees can walk on it. Mites will fall off host bees at
random times so the sticky screens can be put at the bottom of hives. Once the mites fall off
they fall right onto the stickiness. Beekeepers have also used powdered sugar dusting as a
technique. Powdered sugar isnt thick enough to harm bees but just enough to bind up
mites so they arent able to go anywhere. A good dusting every couple of weeks would be
helpful to bee hives.

Conclusion
In conclusion, many traps have been used and have proven to do an effective job against
hive beetles and mites. The extra time beekeepers take to make an effective trap and apply
them to beehives will be worth it. If not, more time and money might be spent in trying to
rebuild the hives that were lost. Some chemical based traps such as mite strips have
proven relatively safe for bees, but the owner has the choice whether they want to use them
or not. In my opinion, most traps used will help with the situation, but chemical-free traps
are the safest and most effective. Using chemical-free traps with solid maintenance and
most beehives will not only survive, but thrive.
Recommendation
The research question is what methods can be used to fight against common factors
known with Colony Collapse Disorder such as Small Hive Beetles and Varroa Mites? My
recommendation is to develop a good maintenance habit by checking up on beehives
regularly and keeping the drone comb in hives to minimum by throwing out old combs and
using worker foundation. I would suggest something similar to the Hood trap to fight both
beetles and mites. By applying oil in the outer compartments and an attractant in the inner
compartment, beekeepers should be able kill beetles. Leaving a section of the frame open
for drone brood so it can be cut out later can also kill mites. Keeping drone brood down is
the most effective way in keeping mites at a sustainable rate and the methods stated earlier
will help aid this plan. A strong hive that is well maintained can defend off a small amount of
beetles and mites. These pests will only start taking over when they are reproducing faster
than bees. Following these guidelines will help and should set any beekeeper on the right
track.

References

Ellis, James D., and Amanda Ellis. "Small Hive Beetle - Aethina Tumida." Small Hive Beetle
- Aethina Tumida. University of Florida, June 2010. Web. 31 Oct. 2014.
Ellis, James D., and C.M. Zettel Nalen. "Varroa Mite, Varroa Destructor Anderson and
Trueman (Arachnida: Acari:Varroidae)1." EDIS New Publications RSS. University
of Florida, June 2010. Web. 31 Oct. 2014.
Hood, Michael. "Small Hive Beetle IPM." (June 2010) : Extension : Clemson University :
South Carolina. Clemson Cooperative Extension, n.d. Web. 31 Oct. 2014.
Oliver, Randy. "IPM 5.5 Fighting Varroa 5.5: Biotechnical Tactics II." Scientific Beekeeping
RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 31 Oct. 2014.
"Related Topics." ARS : Honey Bees and Colony Collapse Disorder. United States
Department of Agriculture, n.d. Web. 29 Oct. 2014.

Appendix
Terms of Proposed New Study
Method/Procedures/Materials
The Purpose of this study is to determine what the best solution is to Hive Beetles and
Mites in beehives.
Research Question
The following is the research question for the proposed research study: What is the best
solution to hive beetles and mites without using harmful chemicals in the hives?
Working Definitions
Worker Bee: Female bees in the hive.
Drones: Male bees in the hive.
Brood: Bee eggs that are laid in the cells of a hive whether male or female. Drone brood is
larger than female brood.
Supplemental Feeding: Anything in place of honey as food, such as sugar water or even
corn syrup.
Beetle Larvae: Beetle eggs that have hatched and turned to larvae.
Pupate: When beetle larvae matures and turns to an adult beetle.
Bottom: A wooden or metal tray or stand that the hives sit on with a small entrance in the
front for bees to enter and exit.
Frame: A wooden rectangle in which foundation is placed so that bees will draw out into
cells and lay eggs or store honey in.
Bee Hemolymph: Fluids inside of bees making up the blood and interstitial fluid.
Postcapping Period: The period from which a cell is capped and hatched.
Culling: Getting rid of old frames and foundation and replacing with new equipment to
prevent drone brood from being made by bees.
Worker sized foundation: Regular foundation that is the size of worker cells (drone cells
are bigger).
Mite Strips: A mite repellent using chemicals that is placed on top of frames and kills mites.
Dissemination
The results of this proposed study will be used for beekeepers around America who
struggle with such problems as beetles and mites.
Credentials of project personnel: I am the son of a beekeeper. I have grown up helping
my father with bees and have seen the effects of pests in our very own hives. I have seen
and built some of the traps that we use in our hives and I know that they work. I am well
prepared to research this topic due to my background and experience with bees.

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