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UDK 39

ISSN 0350-0322

71

2007.


6. 2008.

, 1901.
1926.

BULLETIN
OF THE ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

VOLUME
71

2007.

Publisher
Ethnographic museum in Belgrade

Editor
Vesna Marjanovi, PhD

Associate Editors
Academic Petar Vlahovi
Branko upurdija, PhD
Vesna Marjanovi, PhD
Vilma Nikanovi

Editorial Secretary
Milo Mati

Ethnographic Museum in Belgrade founded 1901.


First volume of Bulletin published 1926.

...........................................................................................................................................


.................................................. 13


: ............ 15

:
...................................................................................................... 39

O ................................ 53


, ................................................... 63

,
........................................................................................................... 89

,
................................................................................................... 113

. .............................................................. 119

20032007. ....................................................................... 143

-
..................................................................................................................................... 159

/

................................................................................................................................ 169

XIX XX ....... 191

......................................................................................................................................................... 227

2006. ...................................................................... 229

XVI .................... 233

- ,
1926. 05. 2007. ............................................................................................................................. 243

,
............................................................................................................................................ 249

. , . ........................................... 251

. , . , ............ 252

, : ............................... 253

, . .............................................................................. 255

, .............................................................................................. 256

, , ,
............................................................................................................................. 258

IN MEMORIAM


M. 19472007............................................................. 261
................................................................................................................... 265

CONTENTS

EDITORS PREFACE....................................................................................................................................

THE SPEECH OF ACADEMICIAN MIHAILO PANTIC ON THE OCCASION OF


PRESENTING THE GVOZDEN JOVANICS BAS-RELIEF...................................................................... 13

ETHNOLOGICAL AND ANTHROPOLOGICAL RESEARCH OF TRANSITION

Gordana Gorunovic
RURAL COMMUNITIES AND IDENTITIES OF MINORITIES IN THE POSTSOCIALIST
TRANSITION PERIOD: Ognanovo, south-western Bulgaria............................................... 15

Bojan Zikic

ANTHROPOLOGICAL RESEARCH INTO MARGINAL SOCIAL GROUPS:


METHODOLOGY OF FIELD WORK.......................................................................................................... 39

Sonja Rizoska Jovanovska, Sasa Sreckovic

SOME PROBLEMS OF THE SPONTANEOUS APPROACH TO FIELD WORK..................................... 53

Vesna Marjanovic

COMMUNICATION WITH TRADITIONS ON THE EXAMPLE OF THE FUNERAL RITUAL


OF THE SAJKAS, TIMOK KRAJINA AND PIROT REGIONS.................................................................. 63

Gordana Miletic

RESULTS OF FIELD WORK IN SMEDEREVO MUNICIPALITY RURAL SETTLEMENTS


LIFE CYCLE CUSTOMS.............................................................................................................................. 89

Sofija N. Kosti

CHANGES IN DEMOGRAPHIC STRUCTURE OF ZAVOJ, VELIKA AND MALA LUKANJA


AS RESULT OF FLOODING........................................................................................................................ 113

Danka Viekruna
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE OF THE MT. VELEZ REGION IN THE VICINITY OF MOSTAR............. 119

Branko Cupurdija

CHRONICLES OF THE KRAKAR EVENINGS 20032007....................................................................... 143

Gordana Miletic

SMEDEREVO AUTUMN FROM GRAPE EXHIBITION TO ECONOMIC AND TOURIST EVENT..... 159

MUSEOLOGICAL PRESENTATION OF CULTURE

Mirjana Menkovic

WOMENS SKIRT DZUBLETA / DUPLETAContribution to studying


clothing items contained in the collection of the Montenegrin
national costumes of the Museum of Ethnography in Belgrade............................ 169

Natasa Nikolic

TAILORS AND THEIR CRAFT IN THE TOWN OF KRAGUJEVAC AND ITS VICINITY IN
THE XIX AND FIRST HALF OF THE XXTH CENTURIES...................................................................... 191

SUPPLEMENT

Olga Zirojevic

BOWL............................................................................................................................................................. 227

CHRONICLE

Marko Stojanovic

MIHAILO VALTROVIC PRIZE................................................................................................................ 229

Sasa Sreckovic

REPORT FROM THE XVI INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF THE ETHNOLOGICAL FILM............... 233

Mirjana Menkovic

VISIT OF AAGOT NOSS TO THE ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM IN BELGRADE................................. 243

REVIEWS AND CRITICISM

Petar Vlahovic

NOVO VUJOSEVIC, VILLAGE IN THE PAST AND IN THE PRESENT NOTES ABOUT
VILLAGE AND PEASANTS........................................................................................................................ 249

Ljubinko Radenkovic

MILIVOJE D. MILOSAVLJEVIC, KORICANI.............................................................................................. 251

Vesna Marjanovic

Matija M. VuksanoviC, Vladimir A. LukSiC, WEDDING RITUALS IN SPIC............................... 252

Marko Stojanovic

LJILJANA GAVRILOVIC, CULTURE IN SHOW-WINDOW: TOWARD A NEW MUSEOLOGY............. 253

Vesna Marjanovic

MILOS MATIC, DOOR GATE BETWEEN TWO WORLDS.................................................................... 255

Vesna Bizic-Omcikus

RAJKA BOROJEVIC, FROM DUBAC TO WORLD.................................................................................... 256

Marija Scekic

MILOS MATIC, MARKO STOJANOVIC, WOOD IN FINGERS: TACTILE ACCESSIBLE


EXHIBITION ................................................................................................................................................ 258

IN MEMORIAM

Vesna Duskovic
ZORAN M. BLAGOJEVI akademski slikar 19472007............................................................... 261
GUIDELINES FOR CONTRIBUTORS........................................................................................................ 265


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Kada sam u Francuskoj, poetkom devedesetih, govorio o identitetu, svi


su me ispravljali reima: Hoete da kaete 'proizvoenje' (ili 'konstrukcija')
18
Vintila Mihailesku, Svakodnevica nije vie ono to je bila. Beleke jednog balkanskog
antropologa u doba tranzicije, Beograd 2002, Biblioteka XX vek, igoja tampa i Knjiara Krug,
117.

...

31

identiteta! Kad sam po prvi put u Rumuniji govorio o 'proizvoenju identiteta'


bilo mi je to istovremeno i poslednji put. Urednica TV, koja je upravo imala
nameru da snimi sa mnom intervju na tu temu, eksplodirala je kada je ula moju
francusku formulaciju: Kako to 'konstrukcija identiteta'!? Pa i malo dete zna da
identitet jeste, on se ne konstruie! (...)
Od tad se borim sa svojim studentima i drugim nevinim sagovornicima u elji
da im pokaem kako se konstruie kolektivni identitet, kako on zavisi od alteriteta
sa kojim je u interakciji, kako moe biti proizvod ideolokih i/ili stratekih opcija,
sticaja okolnosti i tako dalje. I tako sve do pre dva meseca, kada sam, na par sati,
sa svim orujem i opremom preao u suprotni tabor.
Bio sam na nekom kolokvijumu u Lionu, gde je jedan moj bivi student
prezentirao rezultate istraivanja o dinamici identiteta u romskoj zajednici jednog
erdeljskog sela. Tamo se sve odvijalo kao u knjigama sa konstruktivistikim
teorijama etniciteta: Romi su se as smatrali za Rome, as nisu, as su bili dobri,
jer su zajedno sa Rumunima i Sasima uli u kategoriju autohtonih, as su bili
loi u svojstvu novodoavih u selo, kao 'pridolice', a ne kao 'Romi', itd. (...)
Francuska publika je trijumfovala. Na kolega nam je pokazao vanredan dokaz
da se ne moe govoriti o etnikim grupama, jer je identitet uvek i pre svega
konstrukcija sa 'promenljivom geometrijom' zakljuio je, posle izlaganja, ef
tamonjeg odseka.
Paz' da nije! naljutio sam se. A kad se venavaju samo izmeu sebe, da l'
znaju il' ne znaju da su Cigani? provokativno sam upitao prisutne.
Vintila Mihailesku,
Svakodnevica nije vie ono to je bila, 115116
1995. ,
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20 : , .
, LII, , 2004, 155-164; Biljana Sikimi (ur.), Banjai na Balkanu: identitet
etnike zajednice. Balkanoloki institut SANU, Posebna izdanja, knj. 88, Beograd 2005; Tomislav
Brankovi, Dragoljub B. orevi (eds.), Protestantism on the Balkans in the Past, Today and the
Future / [XIII Annual International YSSSR Conference Protestantism on the Balkans in the Past,
Today and the Future]; Ni: Yugoslav Society for the Scientific Study of Religion, 2006;
, (- ), , , , 2007.

34

Gordana Gorunovic
RURAL COMMUNITIES AND IDENTITIES OF MINORITIES IN THE
POSTSOCIALIST TRANSITION PERIOD: Ognanovo, south-western Bulgaria
Summary
This study focuses on an ethnically mixed settlement, the village of Ognanovo in the Meste
region (Western Rodop Mountains), in south-western Bulgaria. It depicts the socio demographic,
economic and cultural characteristics of the village, and also presents an ethnographic description
of the living conditions and way of life of the Roma within the local community, underscoring the
appearance of the new social factor the activities of the non-government Roma organization in the
village. The gradual abandoning of the traditional Roma Islamic religion and the acceptance of a
new one under the influence of the Protestant religious communities, is viewed as a new element in
the self-defining and identification of the Rome within the ethnically and religiously complex local
community and environment, mainly made up of the majority Bulgarian Orthodox Christians and
the Bulgarian Muslims (Pomacs), on the one hand, and the minority Roma, on the other.

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A Question of Method or Epistemology? The British Journal of Sociology,
Vol. 35 No. 1, 75-92
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Bojan iki (2006a), Anthropology of AIDS. Risk environment and injecting
routine. The case of Belgrade injecting drug users, Issues in Ethnology and
Anthropology, Vol. 1, No. 1 (n.s.), 35-46
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Belgrade Injecting Drug Users, Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography LIV,
Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, 189-199
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Basic Research Methodology, Issues in Ethnology and Anthropology, Vol. 2,
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...

51

Steven Miller and Marcel Fredericks (2003), The Nature of Evidence in


Qualitative Research Methods, International Journal of Qualitative Methods,
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Janine Morgall Traulsen, Anna Birna Almarsdttir, Ingunn Bjrnsdttir (2004),
Interviewing the Moderator: An Ancillary Method to Focus Groups,
Qualitative Health Research, Vol. 14 No. 5, 714-725
Ana Prodanovi, Bojan iki, Tim Rhodes, Elena Kuneski (2005), Delenje pribora
za ubrizgavanje droge kao faktor rizika za HIV/HCV meu intravenskim
zavisnicima u Beogradu, u , ,
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/ , ,
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Tim Rhodes, Catherine Lowndes, Ali Judd, Larissa A. Mikhailova, Anya Sarang,
Andrey Rylkovc, Mikhail Tichonov, Kim Lewisd, Nina Ulyanova, Tatiana
Alpatovae, Victor Karavashkin, Mikhail Khutorskoy, Matthew Hickman,
John V. Parry and Adrian Renton (2002), Explosive spread and high
prevalence of HIV infection among injecting drug users in Togliatti City,
Russia, AIDS Vol. 16 No. 13, F25-31
Tim Rhodes, Mark Davis, Ali Judd (2004), Hepatitis C and its risk management
among drug injectors in London: renewing harm reduction in the context of
uncertainty, Addiction 99, 621633
Milena Simi, Lisa Grazina Johnston, Lucy Platt, Sladjana Baro, Violeta
Andjelkovi, Tom Novotny, and Tim Rhodes (2006), Exploring Barriers to
Respondent Driven Sampling in Sex Worker and Drug-Injecting Sex Worker
Populations in Eastern Europe, Journal of Urban Health 83 (Supplement 7),
615
Adri Smaling (2002), The Argumentative Quality of the Qualitative Research
Report, International Journal of Qualitative Methods, Vol. 3 No. 4, 1-15

52

Bojan Zikic
ANTHROPOLOGICAL RESEARCH INTO MARGINAL SOCIAL GROUPS:
METHODOLOGY OF FIELD WORK
Summary
Contemporary field work is no longer conducted solely in exotic milieus, or in rural environments. Thus, human groups which make up the micro-social framework within which anthropological research is being carried out are increasingly gaining in their form, content and structure,
and some of them are difficult to access because of theie lifestyle. This also requires methodology
innovations with regards direct field work. Quality research represents an anthropological answer to
the given situation, with technics that aim to help the aqusition of information which best illustrates
both the practical aspects of the groups that are being researched and their general view of life, the
reasons and motives of their socio-cultural conduct. The methodology of qualitative anthropological research has been shown to be especially suitable for studying marginal social groups, such as
intravenous drug abusers or sexl workers, for example. It is used in social epidemiological research
and those aimed at general public health care problems.

53

316.722:303.425(497.7)
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(100)
2
Neuman, L., Social Research Methodos, Qualitative and Quantitative approaches, Boston,
London, Toronto; Allyn and Bacon, 1994.
3
Barbier, R. La recherche action, Anthropos, Paris 1996.
4
Elliott, J., Action research for Educational change, Philadelphia: Open University Press,
1991.
5
Adam, F., , O , , 1984.

55


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Adam, F., , O , ,
1984.
Barbier, R. La recherche action, Anthropos, Paris 1996.
Elliott, J., Action research for educational change, Philadelphia: Open
University Press, 1991.
, , , , 1978.
Neuman, L., Social Research Methodos, Qualitative and Quantitative
approaches, Boston, London, Toronto;Allyn and Bacon, 1994.
, , ,
, 2007. (100).
, - ( ); , X-Press, , 1991.

61

Sonja Rizoska Jovanovska


Sasa Sreckovic
SOME PROBLEMS OF THE SPONTANEOUS
APPROACH TO FIELD WORK
Summary
The positions of the field investigaror and the person who is recording video footage are
considered in the just initiated project dubbed Skopje and Everything is Possible. The example
of the guerrilla approach to field work is given. The questions asked and the manner in which the
interview is conducted are not strictly structured while, on the other hand, we have the spontaneity
of the interview which is affected by the presence of the camera.
Also considered is the postulate of the investigators objectivety if he is openly socially and
ethically engaged. Furthermore, presented are the political and social circumstances which influence this project, which is mainly designated as belonging to action anthropology in the sphere of
inter-ethnic relations.

62

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, 3
,
. . Li, Kultura
i komunikacija, Beograd 1983; I. Kovaevi, Komunikacijski pristup prouavanju rituala, Etnoloki pregled, 17, Beograd 1982, 143-153. D. Bandi, Komunikacijski aspekt religije, Carstvo zemaljsko i carstvo nebesko, Beograd 1997, 7-31.
4
. Proi-Dvorni, Pogrebni ritual u svetlu obreda prelaza, na primeru Stonskog primorja,
Etnoloki pregled, 18, Beograd 1982, 41-53, 41
5
. , , 2001, 8,
. Lia, Kultura i komunikacija, Beograd 1983, 18-20.

...

65

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A. Gurevi, Problemi narodne kulture u srednjem veku, Beograd 1987, 270-271.
8
B. akovi, Posmrtni obiaji i obredi, Etnografski muzej, Zagreb 1985, 7.
6
7

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D. Bandi, Posmrtno umiranje u religiji Srba, u Carstvo zemaljsko, carstvo nebesko, Beograd,
1997, 67-84, 70.
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1997, 69.
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78

Vesna Marjanovic
COMMUNICATION WITH TRADITIONS ON THE EXAMPLE OF THE
FUNERAL RITUAL OF THE SAJKAS, TIMOK KRAJINA AND PIROT
REGIONS
Summary
The study gives the results of research conducted in a part of the southeast Backa region,
better known as the Sajkas region, as well as in eastern Serbia. During my work on both projects, I
monitored the life cycle of customs. The study provides comprehensive information about funeral
customs based on empiric material.
After the completion of the research and the summing up of the results, it was determined
that numerous elements of the traditional model of conduct survived especially in funeral rituals. In
this context, studied is the relation of the current population and the traditional model of behavior
linked to funeral customs. Since settlements in eastern Serbia have been demographically deserted
and the current rural populatiaon is predominantaly elderly, with characteristic internal mechanisms
to prepare them for their final moments prior to passing away, it was deemed interesting to present
the manner how they establish the communication form towards the other world . In the region,
better known as the Sajkas region, the last decade of the 20th century saw the inflow of a new
population from the south Slav territories, as well as from southern Serbia, from Kosovo, and they
bronght a part of their traditional customs which differ somewhat to the existing local ones, so that
the form of communication in the funeral ritual is different.

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Gordana Miletic
RESULTS OF FIELD WORK IN SMEDEREVO MUNICIPALITY RURAL
SETTLEMENTS LIFE CYCLE CUSTOMS
Summary
In 2005 and, in an additional study in 2006, field work was carried out in the Smederevo
municipaliaty settlements as the first stage of the several year project Ethnological Study of
Smederevo Municipaliaty Settlements. The aim of this stage was to determine the fundamental
ethnological characteristics of the study environment, the current situation with regards its customs
and social life, in the sphere of the material culture, and to determine future research. Data was collected by applying the interview technique with in advance prepared questions, conducting direct
conversations, photographing the objects of material culture. The interviews were conducted with
representatives of local communities and individual informants of their chosing. These subjects,
which differed by sex, age, affluence and social status, provided data which are are not uniform
in their scope and content. The bulk of the gathered information is made up of data linked to rural
settlements and old-timers in the population. The study presents a part of the data referring to customs pertaining to the life cycle: births, death, marriages, birthday celebrations and celebrations
organized when sending off men into the army. The most detailed and comprehensive material
reffers to births, marriages and death and funerals moments which are viewed as having great
significance in the traditional culture.
According to the existing research data, these events, as part of a more extensive bulk of major
moments in the life of each individual, do not lose in importance in the present. What is reduced is
the number of customs performed. The systematization of the data represents an attempt to provide
a view into the past and the present.

112

, , , 2005. .

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113

392:316.42(497.11)
314.114:627.81(497.11)

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, , 10, 1979.

Sofija N. Kosti
CHANGES IN DEMOGRAPHIC STRUCTURE OF ZAVOJ, VELIKA AND
MALA LUKANJA AS RESULT OF FLOODING
Summary
Geological change in the terrain of the Pirot region of Zavoj occurred in 1963 due to land
stides as result of climatic changes which themselves led to modified river flows. This was cause
for new effect of water on stability of the inhabited terrain. In addition, very fertile garden type,
arable and grazing land were endangered for good. This led to a new demographic situation. Villages were depopulated and the valley flooded and turned into a reservoir. Former inhabitants of the
region moved away and changed their lifestyle and occupations.
Natural and artificial changes of the terrain inhabited by the population of several villages,
Zavoj, Velika and Mala Lukanja, resulted in important demographic changes that automatically
involved changes in the field of economy and habitation, as well as in the sphere of spiritual culture.
Particular customs, special family organization and all that made them specific disappeared. By
migrating to urban environment, inhabitants of the region that had to be flooded became an integral
part of some other living milieu, somewhat influencing their new environment which in turn affected them far more, since it slowly but surely assimilated them into its clich.

119

398.3/.4(497.6)
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142

. ,
.
Danka Viekruna
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE OF THE MT. VELEZ REGION
IN THE VICINITY OF MOSTAR
Summary
Up to the middle of the 20th century, traditional medical knowlegde was frequently implemented in the Mt. Velez region, just like in all the South Slav territories that were outside major
communication routes (mountain villages). It was used by folk healers who gathered and applied
herbs (exact) and by medicine men or sorcerers (esoteric), and this knowledge was inhereted and
transmitted in the word to mouth form. Over centuries, it remained the same in its essence, with
certain changes linked to individual cases.
The survival of such knowledge in the era of modern medicine (in more conspirative than
transperant form, to use the postwar terminology of globalization) was caused by habits, but also
by the need not to reject tradition so easily, in the spirit that nothing is too much.
Sorcery is mainly based on the principles of imitation magic; the miming of certain fenomena
(application of the same for something that is the same, similar terms are used for something that
is similar), the use of magical numbers (three, five, seven, nine) etc. The times for conducting such
activities were also predetermined (certain days, time of the day), there were rules for those who
performed them, the objects they used as well as rules for the conduct of their subjects.
From the scientific standpoint, the knowledge of sorcerers or medicine men is unempiric, irrational, assumed; stemming from animatism, animism, magic and polytheism.
In modern culture, sorcery and magic are valued as testimonies about the primal awareness, a
view of the environment and life, about the spiritual and material culture.

20032007.

143

392.7:061(497.113)2003/2007

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.

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.
Branko Cupurdija
CHRONICLES OF THE KRAKAR EVENINGS 20032007
Summary
This gathering has been held in Bajmok since 1972, initially under the name Krakar Dinner
and later as the Krakar Evening. From 1972 -75 it was held in the restaurant of the Club of Reserve
Army Officers; from 1976 -83 in the Polet restaurant; in 1984 and 1985 in the Ravnica restaurant;
from 1986 90 in the Korzo restaurant, from 1991 2002 in the Polet restaurant, in 2003 in the
Radnicki Sports Center and from 2004 07 in the Vozd restaurant.. It has been demonstrated that
the global social changes which took place in the late 20th century and in the early 21st century,
primarily the war in the territory of the former Yugoslavia and the transition from socially-owned to
private property, have affected the change of the venue of this gathering and some of its contents.

20032007.

157

Thus, the gathering, in keeping with the overall social changes, has in the past five years been
held for the very first time in a privately-owned restaurant, while the evening menu was partially
changed in accordance with the views of the new hosts. Therefore, it has been show that a tradition,
established 35 years ago, continues to go through certain changes under the influence of global
social developments.

158

, , , 2005. .

...

159
061.7(497.11)(091)
394.6 (497.11)(091)

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Erik Hobsbom, Terens Rejnder /ur/, Izmiljanje tradicije, Biblioteka XX vek, Beograd,
2002, 10.

E. Hobsbom, T. Rejnder /ur/, n. d., 413.
16
, 08. , 1960. .

168

Gordana Miletic
SMEDEREVO AUTUMN FROM GRAPE EXHIBITION
TO ECONOMIC AND TOURIST EVENT
Summary
The economic and tourist event dubbed the Smederevo Autumn, in view of the continuity of
its duration the first was held in the late 19th century and has lasted until the present with shorter
and longer pauses, is one of the oldest economic and tourist events in the territory of Serbia. Over
time, especially after World War Two and the new poliatical, social, economic and cultural climate,
it was revived and new content was introduced, with entertainment increasingly getting into the
forefront as time passed by. After a 15-year pause, in 1988, the organizers of the Smederevo Autumn established continuity with the initial event which, according to them, was held in 1888. All
Smederevo Autumns primarily focus on an exbition of grapes, wines and fruit, but this was only an
excuse for the organizers to ntroduce other contents which reflected the social and political climate
and the current cultural patterns.
This project is an attempt to present the history of this event and how it was affected by political, social economic and cultural moments within the span of one hundred years, as well as to
determine whether certain periods contained elements of the fabricaiton of tradition. The project is
based on press reviews as the basic sources of information, since there are no other written studies
about the event in question, as far as I am aware.

/ ...

169

061.51:391.2(497.11)
391.2(=18)

/




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XX
,
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1

, ,
: Marijana Gui, Zvonolika suknja dubleta u enskoj nonji
Malisora, Godinjak Centra za balkanoloka istraivanja ANU BiH, knj. XXIV/22, Sarajevo 1986,
109-181.
: XX
,
,
(spik), .
,
,
.
, : F. Nopsca, Albanien (Bauten Trachten und Berte), Leipzig 1925, 113132, 174177, 215217; K. Tkalac, Narodne nonje u Sremskih Klimenata u Hrtkovcima i Nikincima, Rad vojvoanskih muzeja (Novi Sad 1954)
119; Monique de Fontanes, Nj rast unik? Kostumi i grave t Malsis s Madhe n Shqiprin e
Veriut, Kultura popullore 1 (Tirana 1982) 175177 ( Vtement et socit 1 (Paris
1981) 207210); Rr. Zojzi, Mbi veshjet tradicionale t popullit ton, Studime Historike 4 (Tirana 1965) 143158; A. Gjergji, Klasifikimi i veshjeve popullore shqiptare, Kultura popullore 1
(Tirana 1978) 6580.

. 1978.
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Marijana Gui, Zvonolika suknja dubleta u enskoj nonji Malisora, Godinjak Centra za
balkanoloka istraivanja ANU BiH, knj. XXIV/22, Sarajevo 1986, 109-181.
3
, , , , XXVII, , 15, ,
1923, 73-79; , , ,
XLVIII, , 20, - ,
1931, 89-100.

172

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Marijana Gui, .., 109-181.

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M. Marinescu, Lvolution du chromatisme dans lart populaire balkanique,
, . 23 ( 1979) 145-151.

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182

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: 256 cm.
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/ ...

183

Mirjana Menkovic
WOMENS SKIRT DZUBLETA / DUPLETA
Contribution to studying clothing items contained in the collection of the
Montenegrin national costumes of the Museum of Ethnography in Belgrade
Summary
The author studies several interesting womens clothing items worn by the ethnic Albanian
Catholic inhabitants of the area of Podgorica that are a part of the collection of Montenegrin national costumes owned by the Museum of Ethnography in Belgrade. The predominant clothing item
of this population group is the so-called dzubleta or dzupeleta, a heavy, ornamental dress/skirt
made up black coarse fabric and which takes the form of a bell starting from the waist downwards.
Since this type of female clothing has already been researched and described in detail in the relevant ethnological literature by the end of the 1980s, the author aims to give a concise review of
the conclusions and comments of some of the authors, the most important bibliography on this item
of clothing and, especially to publish a group of 17 pieces of this clothing item which are owned
by the Ethnography Museum in Belgrade. Thus, coupled with the items owned by the Museum of
Ethnography in Zagreb and the National Museum in Sarajevo, experts will have at their disposal
information about all the museum pieces of this interesting manner of dress of the Balkans.

184

469/38 ,
, XX ,

(1918-1941),
, 38

499/38 , ,
XX ,
(1918-1941),
, 38

/ ...

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(M ),
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,

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( 9, 10, 11, 12, 13)

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190

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17 ,

...

191

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, 18471946, .

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65. , 1851.
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67. , 1851.
68. , 1851.
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72. , 1852.
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75. , 1853.
76. , 1854.
77. , 1854.
78. , 1854.
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92. , 1857.
93. , 1857.
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95. , 1858.
96. , 1858.
97. , 1860.
98. , 1861.
99. , 1861.
100. , 1861.
101. . , 1861.
102. , 1862.
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1991.

Natasa Nikolic
TAILORS AND THEIR CRAFT IN THE TOWN OF KRAGUJEVAC AND ITS
VICINITY IN THE XIX AND FIRST HALF OF THE XXTH CENTURIES
Summary
In the first half of the XIX century craftsmen and traders were the representatives of the
emerging civic society and they constituted the bases of the economic development of the town
of Kragujevac. Despite the change in the towns ethnic structure, they continued to work according to the existing guild customs. As the manufacturers of simple and modest garments, primarily
intended for the rural population, the craftsmen and traders managed to survive the competition of
foreign industrial goods which flooded the country in the late XIX century.
By abolishing the limiting guild system and accepting new capitalist market relations, the
tailor craftsmen adapted by introducing materials of higher quality and more intricate methods of
ornamentation. Over time, the simple, line ornament, which followed the edges of the individual
garment, was replaced by intricate ornaments. After coarse handwoven fabrics were replaced by
industrial soft and thinner materials aba and velvet, the range of garments on offer was expanded.
Clothing ornaments included ready-made silk braids and sterling silver strips and this resulted in
the transformation of the craft of tailoring, coupled with the slowly disappearing art of weaving,
into dressmakers who united these two crafts.

...

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