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ALL OF THE CASES /N THIS BOOK ARE COMPLETELY HAND SEWN A SPECIAL THANKS to my wife, Ann, for all the help in making this book possible. She has sewn all of the projects in this book where handstitching and buckstitching assembly was required. . .including the handsewing of all of the zipper installations. She has also carved and dyed many of the decorative designs. When sewing large projects, it is often impossible or impractical to put them in the stitching horse. One should then get as comfortable as possible and hold the project between the legs as shown in the photo above. Use any aids at your disposal to make the job as easy as possible. Often times stuffing the case full of towels (or other soft material) aids in holding its shape while sewing. If sewing machines are available, by all means use them wherever you can if they will do the job. All ‘of our sewing is by hand to ensure the finest, strongest construction possible. . .as well as a professional appearance. This also illustrates that you, too, can complete any project without the aid of expensive machinery. FOREWORD VOLUME TWO (this book) is a continuation of Volume ONE. ..“The Art of Making Leather Cases”. This volume will expand your case-making knowledge. There are so many different styles and types of leather cases that we cannot get them all within the covers of one, two, or perhaps even three volumes. Therefore, we will have to devote future volumes on this subject to cover such items as: guitar cases, suitcases, garment bags, golf bags, gun cases, etc. We wish to cover the subject of case-making as thoroughly as possible to enable you to make a case for any object or purpose. With the information in Volume ONE and Volume TWO you should be well on your way. to making a wide variety of leather cases. . .with satisfying professional results, Volume TWO features the construction of a wide variety of handles and their uses and application. Wetted con- struction is also featured. . .where the case is assembled inside out, sewn. . .then reversed. This makes a very strong and attractive seam. We also show the many facets of zipper uses and how to make and install them. We endeavor to instruct you on how to,design your own cases for specific items. It is, of course, impossible to give a pattern for ery type of case that is made. But with the many instructions and assembly techniques presented within these pages, they can be adapted to conform to your own special projects. New Carving Design Patterns are not given in this book as space was not available. We have used existing patterns from other publications to illustrate how they can be applied. A billfold or belt design does not necessarily have to be restricted to billfolds or belts. Where applicable, the pattern source is given with each project. To avoid continually repeating ourselves and using valuable space, we will refer you to various books where previous instructions are given. Most of t ‘techniques are fully illustrated in “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather”. When additional information on sewing is required, it will be given with the project, where applicable, within these pages. Volume ONE, “The Art of Making Leather Cases”, covers most of the basic techniques for containing straps, forming loops, dees, shields, buckles, billets, etc., in great detail. Setting snaps and rivets also well covered. Additional instructions and new techniques are shown in this book. BURNISHING EDGES: In this book (Volume TWO) we indicate many ‘areas in the instructions where it suggests: ““BURNISH EDGE”. Again, Fs Co cane to save precious space and avoid duplication, refer to Volume ONE. . - a age 12. . for instructions on how to burnish the edges. The weight {thickness in 02.) of leather is also explained on page 3 of Volume ONE. Most of the instructional sketches in this book do not show the carved panels. It should go without saying that all carving and stamping should be done before beginning assembly. Also. . .if you have advanced to this stage of leathercraft, you should know that all leather (at folds) should be moistened before bending. If you wish to assemble your cases with buckstitching. . .”“How to Buck- stitch” is a valuable book to have in your library of leathercraft knowledge. It contains many examples (right & wrong) and methods of buckstitching projects, such as the cases on pages 57 and 80. It also shows the tools required, how to use them, and Ann Stohlman’s style of “speed” buck- stitching, Now. . let's advance into new adventures with “The Art of Making Leather Cases”. .. VOLUME TWO! eee [AI Stohiman MAKING LEATHER HANDLES 1rge selection of assorted leathers and HANDLES can be made in a variety of lengths, styles, sizes, and from a other materials. . .or a combination of them. We will give you a selection of patterns from the most simple strap to more complex methods of construction. Some projects require sturdier handles than others. Some will be of dressier, more refined appearance, and be suitable for light ,, handbags, etc, Our selection is by no means ‘a complete list of handle styles, as this would make a book in itself. However, with our presentation of patterns and styles, you should be able to fit a handle to any leather case you may desire to make. The length of the handle for your should be determined by the most comfortable position in which you want to carry it. You can shorten or lengthen The size of handles, too, plays an important part in the comfort of your hand. Most luggage and briefcase handles are of a standard uniform size that will fit most people. A little discomfort will generally go unnoticed, or accepted, thinking nothing can be done about it anyway. However, when making your own handles, you can add to the lengths if you have large hands and can also widen them by adding fillers to make them fuller, as desired. Conversly, they can be shortened and/or made thinner for the delicate or smaller hands. The patterns we present are for the average size hands. You can make them longer, shorter, wider, or narrower by simply altering the pattern (in or out) from the center area. No difficulty should be encountered in doing this. You may have to make up @ handle first, to determine which way to alter the pattern, if any. The type and weights of leathers will be suggested on the patterns. These, too, can be changed if you wish the handle to be heavier and stiffer, or lighter and more flexible, Use your own judgment for your requirements. Shown below are the most simple forms of handles and some of the hardware used in attaching them to cases. These handles are made of single thickness leather and the hardware riveted or sewn to secure. For more stiffness, the leather can simply be cut from heavier stock, or double thickness used and sewn together at the edges. No patterns are given as these handles should easily be made from viewing the sketches. Make them to any width desired, to fit the hardware. auger rane BueKies' bu case Byori z ie rerntanae “ORNAMENTAL BUCKLE RINGS ... DEES ... AND LOOPS. —— enrenae Sone Avehbhen rence “st paciied We cask EXAMPLES OF METAL >> ~y wy a HARDWARE ‘Seren? RMe PEE pedihcan) ShOBEY a ae RAISED Nps oF Loops Gan BE SEWN, GiueD, on Riveres ing loops and see Volum “The Art of Making Leather + sages 5, 111, and 115, merat Loop Varn pose type of handle is usually attached ‘metal loop and center post (above) is hardware Thi same results with leather loops, copper rivets and burrs. Begin the instructions below and on the following page. SA No.2 CoppER RIVET Gua SuRRS. Usa Ya ORT LENGTH LEATHER 36p. MaKe wo” 6 02. COWHIDE TE] prepare two tester loo and punch @ hole in the center, at top. See Volume ONE, “The Art of Making Leather Cases” +» spage 5. . .for making leather loops. (continued) HANDLE Ne =D This simple handle is handy for small cases such as: first toiletry, etc. The handle will lay flat for storage or easier packing while traveliing. Handle shown is made of 11/12 oz. skirting leather. If you do not have this weight, use two pieces of 5/6 02. leather and glue and sew them together all around the outer edges. ACTUAL SIZE . —— | BURMISH EDGES 1/2 PATTERN M/1 oz, COWHIDE actual Size Va PATTERN | U/12 02, COWHIDE ' BURNISH EDGES USE Wo. PUNCH...cUT OUT SLOT 1 HANDLE IN PLAT POSITION COMPLETED CASE ON PAGE 41 HANDLE IN RAISED POSITION 3 conpER HANDLE No.2 - Continued ayn coppen aiver SETTER See ae Comper River NOTE: PLACE A PIEC OF PAPER BE Tween L00P AND meTAL To LEATHER Looe avers Mieke Patvent aes LEB Sibe ur SORPACE? «NG THE LEATHE 2 Push copper rivet into hole in loop. Place slot of Place on riveting surface and “‘set’’ the burr next handle over the rivet. to the slot, as shown. DO NOT SET TIGHT! Handle should move freely in the slot back and forth on the af Fiat - rivet. Repeat riveting loop on other end. i - stue ENDS Down Possrion OF SLors secowD THE CASE Le "ob ql ae crite ‘The position of the loop slots and rivet holes “ gnak Serres in the case are determined by sliding the loops to Bo the inside of the slots, as shown. above. iis anks. s ad Ogee Cae e 6 2 After punching slots Turn project over and and rivet holes in “‘set’” a second burr snug proper position, push _to leather inside the case. loop ends and! rivet Do not set so tight as to through holes in case, tighten Ist burr. Cut off Turn project over. If you as indicated at left. ‘end; burr over. have an old setter, lightly “dome” the rivet head. Se hae he NOTE: Loop ends can be glued down inside case. No sewing is requit (CASE 7 rivets go through the case securing the assembly. HANDLE No. 2-A ‘This is a modification of handle No. 2. The sleeves (at ends) take the place of the loops giving the assembly @ neater, smoother appearance. Rivet the sleeves and handl step 3 above. When using the sleeves, narrow the end of the handle a bit, and skive some thickness off the very ends, as the Locate POSITION om position oF River HOLES, IN CASE eoae on” - ASW Sree 4 “agove Sieevecoven = | gy > Saw anounD THE Saseres AFTER RIVET POSITION OF ING To THe CASE. River note COMPLETED case ow PAGE 111 i 6 oz Make & HEAVY CeaTHER FORMING Bock sulanrey THICKER THAN THe HANDLE nana ‘SHOE TACKS Form the sleeves exactly as shown on page 111 of “The Art of Making Leather Cases’. . Volume ONE, er, Adjustable -[HANDLE No.3] cowntpe {{ na EXAMP| a Cut two straps from 6/7 02. cowhide about 23%" long. Punch buckle tongue holes in one strap only, about 4” apart. Cut straps 5/8” wide. . .or any width desired, depending ‘on the buckles used. Burnish the edges. EXAMPLE B Means ‘This handle is adapted for hand and shoulder length adjustment, as well as positions in between. It adjusts from about 23” to 40” It is shown here with two methods of con: HANDLES | struction, featuring two styles of loops and arene buckles. Straps can be cut shorter or longer SHORT to fit your requirements. POSITION The ends (for attaching to case or bag) are secured with omamental silver concho Chigago screws, for easy attachment or re- moval. Follow the instructions below for making these handles, A B5KEIS EXAMPLE A. Round ends of both straps and burnish ‘edges. Fold ends as shown, Install buckle on one strap; metal loop on the other. BAR BUCKLE ie PUNCH ADJUSTMENT HOLES aS BUCKLE merge tooe" River Assemble straps as shown above. Place buckle tongu desired adjustment hole and pull strap down snug. See photo. PUNGN RDWGETMENT POLES OTIS tage Ta ie Sorta Be EXAMPLES: Make two leather loops a THIS STRAP from 4/5 oz. cowhide. Sew one to end of each strap, NOTE: One loop is up; one is Piney down! See “The Art of Hand Sewing sew Fon Leather” for sewing straps and loops, pages (HANDLE cone | This is cut from 4 oz. cowhi 20”. The ends fold over %" dees, 1 yee Dee down (below). Fob anp sew (as above). Give! CENTER LINE { DRAPERY CORD Skive Aut EDGES 70 A FEATHER cy A LINEN. CENTER, ON FLESH SIDE GARMENT LEATHER Cut 1 1/8” wide, by 16” long. Skive as indicated above. Glue the handle core to garment leather, next to the drap: ery cord, as shown above, (2) Fold garment leather over and glue to handle core. The cord should be on the top edge of the core. BURNISH ‘ace eDGes ——>| + Give one edge of cover to align with edge of core, and lower edge of cord. You must straighten the taper, on ‘the ends, along this edge. COVER LEATHER Cut the cover leather from 4 02. cow- hide, 15%" long. Note the taper, at the ends, from 1 1/8" to 1%". Gouge sewing channels; burnish all edges. [5] turn over and gue oppo- site side in a like manner. The ‘tapered edges will automatical ly straighten out when wrap- ping around the folded ends of the core, Sewing edges should be aligned. DRAPERY CORD You will need a piece of drapery cord (about 1/8” in diameter) 15%" long. The list of items above are required for this handle. [6] sow the hanales. stitenes come 18 out in opposite channel. HANDLE No. 16 This is @ very decorative handle, leal for handbags and light cases. tis designed for bags, or cases, where only one handle is re- quired. It features an inlaid center section with gold PATTERN FOR METALLIC LEATHER, e- 2 oz, skive SHADED AREAS ONLY ‘metallic leather over drap: age ery cord. Completed, the g s i= handle is less than 4” S33 mila wide. The pattern is x aS) a for %" hardware, This Rae SATE) wal handle is made 16” ak Tyje—16" serweew Fovps long between folds. SAL Lek coven | ae BURNISH insibe Neren he. 10 Punce. @ Prepare the oun aintnOnnee leathers as per my Borton Za— Thing ag IN STEP patterns shown Bees 4s s (right). The filler aie can be made of =! 1%" thick skirting se leather. DRAPERY CORD See HANDLE 15 CORD SHOULD BE orrom oF. - Wcinten OF THE Fete, METALLIC LEATHER Now fold sides up Sipe to adhere to the 3] Apply glue to metallic, and to top and ‘sides of the filler. sides of filler. Begin adhering in center (as above). a BONE FOLDER SIDE OF FILLER, Glue drapery cord on top sias” edge of filler. Cut off flush at ends. FLesH ‘Side uP coRD Fold end of metallic leather over dee and glue to bottom of filler. LE) tae wore tase it seein pronged ends of the along cord for sharp definition. cover through the dees, and glue the bottom of the filler to the cen- ter of the cover leather. Fold prongs back tightly andglue Apply glue to flesh sides of {0 filer. Pinch in (arrows). Take cover and to sides of filer. handle. Wet die henai' ond, ‘or 4 stitches to secure, Fold up and adhere. ‘tank: tal. benohiiin fa’ curve, Allow to dry. 20 HANDLE No.1? ule This is a very trim, yet strong little han It is made with the hidden stitches, finishing Sie in the round form, It is about 3/8” in fan meter, and is shown on the case on page 40. sewing "The ‘Art of Hand Sewing Leather” very eam clearly shows you how to make the round handles with the hidden stitch. We also have some detailed photos on page 24 of Position book, showing how this is accomplished. The “rounds” make very attractive and serviceable handles. filler MAKING HIDDEN 7 Round the bot- TCH CUTS ‘STITCH CU! h ee S pian filler with No, Py Zedeer. FILLER z ZS | le | seme 4 tz my) ons Cut out the handle and the filler. Round bottom 8 we ‘edge of filler (above). Skive ends of handle. Gouge ey | [rz sewing channels (see pattern) and make the angled, es ES * hidden stitch cuts (see page 54 of “The Art of Hand 2 ag HANDLE Sewing Leather”). x a Gfarien ‘GUIDE LINES FOR ANGLED CUTS FOR HIDDEN STITCHES By following steps 3 through 12, in “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather”, you will have the hand- le sewn and rounded as illustrated above. NOTE: If you do not have a metal rounder, see suggestion for rounding handles on page 24 of this book. We will now resume instructions from step 12, in “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather”. . .on page 58. NeeDiEs Inside view of step 4, Pull thread (A) out Sew to end of chan above. Nowsteb two 1sthole; thread (B) nel, next to dee. le to end of fil- holes in opposite ‘out 2nd hole. Now Back-stitch and cut Fold ends in and ce- ith next to ‘edge as shown above. push thread (A) back —_ off threads. Repeat ‘ment to handle. Push itch, bring Pull thread (8) up through 2ndhole, to other end. Wet the skived ends in tight —nearside thread (B) tight. Note how inside. Pull thread leather and shape with modeler. Trim through last hole. threads (in step 6) (A) tight. You are around forming off excess flush Both threads should have crossed on the _ready to resume block es shown on the edges of the now be on the back inside. stitching. page 9. handle. side, 21 iii. face br HANDLE No. 18 This is another handle of round construction, with the ends flared out for sewing directly to the case (see the case on page 57), The round section is made as handle No. 17. For making rounds, review the book “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather”. Turn to page 24, of this book, for additional suggestions and photo illustrations. Cut handle from 6/7 oz. cowhide. any length desired. Maks filler from 9/10 oz. cowhide, %" wide. Glue together (below). After sewing, trim ler and “‘round” as previously instructed. After rounding, wet handle and tack to bench. When dry, ‘trim ends, burnish, ‘and gouge sewing channels. = cur WERE (Born SIDES ) FOR re a” THE HIDDEN STITCH TREE WY ONCE SEE CASES On PAGES 87, 93 This is another version of the round hang le, The “round” construction is exactly th same as with all other round handles. Hers the ends are extended, fold around th hardware on the case, and fasten wit ‘ornamental screw conchos. These handle are easily installed and removed, Follow the instructions above for we! and shaping the handles, by tacking t your bench (or a board). When dry, trin the ends as per the pattern, Cut the handle from 6/7 oz. cowhide. Cut filler from 8/9 cur position HERE 0 RR FoR a HARDWARE o 7 rover Gr MoIsTEN Moisten the fold for a sharp bend, attach the conchos and allow to dry. HIDDEN STITCH CUTS cur ON DOTTED LINE 2 PB at eae S SE Oe enewane SEE CASE ON | HANDLE No. 20 ] ion 22) This is still another version of @ round handle. . .though it is not truly round. The assembly is much easier than the round handles previously shown, as the stitches are not hidden. The other handles can also be sewn in this manner, if you do not care to use the hidden stitch. If one is not skit led in using the round knife for long, sloping skives on the ends, try the Tandy Skiver. as shown below. You will have to make several pas- ses with the blade. Use caution! ‘This handle is made of 8/9 oz. cowhide for heavy use; no filler was used. It can also be made of lighter weight leather if you wish. Also, @ filler can be used without the hidden stitch if you wish the handle to be thicker when using lighter weight leathers. The handle shown measures 6/8” wide by about 3/8” thick, When using 8/9 oz. cowhide, the ends should be skived as shown on the pattem, to reduce the thickness of the folds. The | very end should taper off very thin, to “Sm accomodate step 2. SEWING CHANNELS Bring sides up to adhere; align the edges. Tap with Prepare the handle and moisten Fold ends in, pinching together. Adhere hammer to insure adhesion, it fairly well. Apply glue to ali to handle while folding sides up. Trim especially at large arrow, areas. Install the dees. excess; gouge light channels inside ‘Sew from dee up to area shown, Pull (A) and 18) sew to opposite end. Now — continue Bring (A) to outside. Punch hole, run (B) tight! Con- Punch hole to inside. Bring sewing in the regular (B) through to opposite side of tinue sewing. (A) to outside, (B) to in- manner up to the dee. handle, side, Pull tight. YJ \8) Your hand will now be 3 shown. Sew the two remaining edges indicated. Bur- nish all edges. Wet and shape as on page 22. HANDLE PATTERN PU mee PONE LEST 8/9 oz. COWHIDE Wo Lona, TAPRRING SkIVE Tat BARKER SHADING INDICATES. HERUIER SRIVING | REMOVAL OF LEATHER SPEC/AL NOTES We present a few “special notes” pages of various tips & hints that may be of aid in your leather work. Some of the items relate to specific projects in the book, but must be pre- sented here as space was not available on the pages of the projects. Also, many of the things presented will apply to several of the projects in this book. . .as well as to other publications. Before beginning any project, it might be helpful to look at the special notes pages fi MAKING ROUNDS TaN ae en STABBING THE HOLE |W Stabbing the aw! hole in the correct position. Use le hand fingers to assist. Needles are shown in the correc position between the fingers. This view shows the handle clamped in the “adapter’’ (page 57, “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather”) and the jodeling spoon opening the hidden stitch cut. UNI RAs aa | PULLING ne eran es) Nee eT Le) Me Continue sewing. . follow steps 6 through 10 in “The Rounding the handle without the aid of a metal roundir Art of Hand Sewing Leather” to prepare the handle _iron. See suggestions below. for rounding (pages 57 and 58). TWISTED THREADS Sone oe a LEATHER- FLESH ‘HAND me GRAN, eee When sowing large projects, the threads \\ will often become twisted. When com- \ Fol pleting a stitch, simply drop the needles \ ther aroun to the floor, and strip threads between bande Eee fingers down needles. This - re dO, eg emenee This win Cut a piece of 8/9 oz. cow. handle back & forth, Tigh’ hide 2” x 3%", Edge two en leather as handle is re sides; No. 5 edger. duced to shape and size. 24 SEE CASE, PRCE ‘96 RE- ENFORCING HANDLE HARDWARE ATTACHMENTS SPECIAL NOTES\ KEEPER ae SINE “This type of keeper can ae SS be used to enlarge the handle grip, and tokeep the handles together. It is usually sewn to the center ‘of one handle. Follow the instructions below. RE-ENFORCING PIECES When installing loops, buckles, dees, etc.,.a reinforcing piece can be put around the hardware, inside of the handle leathers as shown above. This adds to the life of the attachment. Use lace-type leather or it rawhide, Rawhide must be soaked water before it can be skived and will out-wear all USE THE LARGE DURABLE DoT FASTENERS, FLESH SIDE ‘Smooth jawed pliers are most useful in shaping leather, especially for forming leathers around handle fil- lers. Smooth pliers are used in glass work and for saddlery. Ask at your local stores or saddle shops. If you are unable to purchase them, you can make them from regular pliers, as suggested below. Epge oF anole ‘Sew keeper to one handle as shown above. KEEPER PATTERN cur FROM 6/7 0x. COWHIDE BURNISH EDGE LEATHER oe woo =| SEWING TIPS >= When sewing zippers, etc., in large projects that are difficult to sew, attach a thong to a ceiling hook. Tie a clothes pin on the other end to keep the troublesome part of the project out of the way. Grind the serrations off the jaws of a regular pair . Since iron or steel will blacken damp leather, ZIPPER Loors the jaws should be heavily | To prevent damaging zippers and Y ennINe ered, or, you can put interior fittings (such as the mani- “HOOK cure case) when sewing, use a filler ap jys7 ‘to clamp between the stitching horse TEWsion jaws, as above. a rn Mail REQUIRED EVENING EDGES cLorHEs After sewing two or more nen ipa pieces of leather together, = S- AINE Tg Aawee the edges can be evened J“ perfectly by running the sharp edge of @ piece of broken glass over them. Use short, quick strokes, Cantle pliers used in saddle work. BROKEN GLASS BROKEN Geass 25 CEMENT Rubber cement is usually used to adhere two parts together in a temporary bond while fitting parts together. The parts can easily be taken loose and adjusted for correct fit tings, and trimmed, to be cemented again. When skiving garment type leathers, place material on glass or a smooth marble surface. Whichever type of knife you use. . have it sharp! Apply steady pressure to make a clean, feathered skive. TANDY, SKIVER ROUND KNIFE Hold the knife firmly. Tip of blade glides flat against marble, as a gauge. you ie Fiam TO When cementing or gluing SCUFFING along edges, place project moyaz just over the edge of the ack an bench, This keeps the “97% os cement from getting on the bench; makes applica tion easier. soft, | SKIVING TIPS SPECIAL NOTES ince space is one of our most precious commodities ‘this book, our instructions continually refer to “cementing” or “gluing”. When we refer to cement- ing. . .this means using rubber cement. When we refer to gluing. . .this means using contact cement, for a strong-bonding adhesive. The copy at left and right will explain the purposes of using “cement” ‘or “glue”. In most cases, the cementing, or gluing, is used primarily to hold parts together until they can be sewn. To insure better adhesion of leathers to be cem to 3/16” Be sure you do not go beyond 1/ are shown below. tee on Pace 42 as |e BEVEL_,s Fina witha FRENCH use THE eres EDGER THE BLADE use tienr. wereHr LEATHER eae BACK OF CASE. FIRST Step: SEW TO BACK OF (1, ar HE EDGE BACK OF CASE. GLUE Glue; contact cement usually used (after primar fitting) to insure that parts remi after adhering. It is ofte used on smooth surfact where rubber comer would notretainadhesiot SANDING ented, or glued, the edge can be scuffed with a knife or sanded with emery cloth. This is especiall useful with the grain side of smooth, glazed leathers such as garment, ett from the edge, especiall with the welted seams or the scuffing will show when turned! LEATHER HINGES Three simple methods of making leather hinges TOP oF LID LL Migeeoag HINGE LEATHER ON THE ~ INSIDE, Sew L V) EDGE VIEWS; SHAD SPECIAL NOTES USING STRAP HANGERS for HANDLE ATTACHMENTS ‘The illustrations above show how you can use the handbag strap hangers ‘on your handles in place of dees or rings, for installing. These hangers are only recommended for light duty on small cases or bags. Example No. 1 shows how the hanger can be used on a narrow top. By changing the handle, the hangers will fit on a wider top (example No. 2). —— MODIFYING THE HANGER ~— STRAIGHTEN PRONGS 2 Here the hanger is altered to allow more a capacity. (A) Bend the prongs out straight and cut the flanges off at each side. (B) and (C) Now bend new prongs down, to equal the width of the backplate. After piercing the leather, the prongs will clinch aroun: ‘plate, inside the case, If the prongs are too long, cut the ends off a bit. When making long gouges for folds, ‘tape a straight edge to the leather TIP: &, and hold firmly, while gouging. vi This reduces the possibility of of errors, SKIVING When the case is to be lined, use Franch Edger to sive both si pansies of gouge. This reduces bulk at folds, 7 7 compensating for the thickness of 2/ZPMMIILL ‘the lining leather. EDGE VIEW FRENCH EDGE AREAS SHOWN IN BLACK, FORMING LEATHER Leather bottoms and lids can easily be formed in one piece, if the edges are not too deep (see kx bag, age 97) by following the instructions below. Almost any weight leather can be formed Cut out the part and gouge a full % depth for the fold. In this case it was %" from the outer edge. If using stitching groover, make several gouges to acquire the depth ther from gouge out to edge, Fold up with fingers (above). For ¢ lid, have the flesh side up. « . bone folder. This compresses the isather at the curved areas. Repeat on the opposite end. Sharpen crease with bone folder (left); allow to dry before installation, DIVER In the event you know nothing about the workings ‘of a zipper, we should first explain how they function. There are’ many types of zippers, though they all work on the same principle. The most common in use is illustrated with the sketches at right. The protuberences of the teeth should always face away from the “mouth”, or largest opening of the slide. The teeth are uniformly crimped along the edges of, the tape. . .but they can be removed, as we shall demonstrate later. The slide (or pull) has a triangular di in front to keep the teeth separated for proper syncronization of the teeth. The heel is open, with little ribs at each side ‘to hold the teeth from spreading. The bottom stop straddles the tape with pronged legs and crimps on, after the slide hhas been installed, to prevent the teeth from pulling apart. The top stop is simply a u-shaped piece that crimps to the tape next to the last tooth. There are other ‘types of stops, but all perform Bottom | types STOP This is the type used on jackets, chaps, etc., where the tapes can be completely separated by opening the parts zipper, the metal end is inserted as far as it will go (sketch A). The slide THE METAL Euivestor: UNIT 1S ATTACHED To TAPE open CLOSURE = ceoseD ipper. Special metal ‘ipper tape at the bottom. To close the ie slide and pushed down then pulled up to engage are attached to the the teeth. . .closing the zipper. 28 NOTE: To keep the zipper operating smoothly, periodically ES bit with paratfin| TL N et VS HOW A “TOOTH TEETH ARE HELD ON TAPE By CRIMPING "WAWS* TOGETHER To remove teeth, jaws must be ““un- crimped”. The edsiest way to do this is with an end-cutting tool, below. Side- cutters can also be used’ (end-cutters are best). ®. (A) Place cutters on tooth, aligned with edge of tape. (B) Squeeze the cutters. Pressure on tooth forces jaws ‘open. Continued pressure cuts end off ‘tooth; jaws fall free. PENCIL MARK (C) By careful alignment, two or three teeth can be cut off at one Remove teeth up to the mark, shown in (D). 30 MAKING YOUR 0 ZIPPERS Often times, when making cases, you will find that standard length zippers may be too long, or too short, to fit the pro- ject properly. To make your own zippers, you will need to Rurchase zipper tape in bulk form for specified cut lengths, ‘ou will also need a supply of zipper slides and stops (both top stops and bottom stops). Be sure the slides and stops will fit the zipper tape you are going to use. When you have all of your materials in hand, measure the Iength of the zipper required for your project. Follow instru tions beginning below. S SPENC PARKS ~ cur OFF HERE Zipper tape should be 1%” longer than the zipper length (%": Zonk code Lay tnper tape out on bench and mark om er {at right). Measure from this mark to your left and mark aga fat the zipper length required. Put an additional mark'%" to tr left. . zipper tape will be cut off here PENCIL MARKS Now. . ull the zipper teeth apart beyond ‘the cut-off marks. Cut the ta (between the teeth) on the cut-off marl as shown below. TEETH REMOVED 8) Remove the teeth from both ends of the tape, up to the mark {as shown above, How to remove testh is shown on left of pag [ roer PROTUBERANCES FORWARD tape (A). Push the other tape into the opposite side of t slide (B). Even the tape ends at the bottom. Be sure both tapi have the tooth protuberances facing forward, atin the skerche (continuer Fasten top stops next to last tooth it other end. Hold stop in pliers va & and crimp to tape. Tap on metal Hold ends of tape and pull Insert prongs through tape, at bottom surface with hammer to secure, ‘the slide forward to engage teeth. Bend prongs in on back side; Do not hit the teeth the teeth, clinch on a metal surface with hammer. If you do not have bulk tape to make azipper, ra and you cannot get one of the correct length, [ use a longer one and cut it down to the correct size. Follow instructions at right. RE-USING THE OLD STOPS You can reclaim the old stops if you do not have any others. Follow sug- Srors eRe soe gestions below. 7 Mark the zipper tape at the correct length. This p be for the top stops. ~ 7 94! Se _ PENCIL MARKS FROM STEPS Gas ey Ear cur OFF Partially open zipper. Cut off zipper tape %” 2] ahead of the marks. Cut between the teeth. Isolate the stop by cutting it off the ‘tape, as above. cur OFF cHiseL, on REPLACE +B | Blew reo. Tie > roe a stops x] s7er a yY Z) SY @ BB) cut ot me zipper teeth (see instructions on opposite page) up Cut off remaining fabric (X). With to the marks. Replace the stops against the last teeth. a blunt-pointed tool (nail, dull knife, chisel) force into open end of stop (Y) to spread it. Remove fabric; stop is ready to use (2), TIP? some zipper @ short pull tab that is aided by attaching a leather thong in the tab slot, 25 shown at right, This is called a “bleed” knot. Cut a thong about 4” long, pull it equally through the tab slot. (1)-Cut aslit in A. (2)-Run B through slit; pull tight. (3)-Cut aslit in B. (4) Run A through B slit; pull tight. Tap with hammer. a the escutcheon pin, for securing. carefully! 32 NOTE® wardware is available through your INSTALLING CASE LOCKS ¢ HARDWARE | ‘evsicsroya "0 S00 m8 me There are so many styles, types and sizes of case hardware that it would take @ whole book in itself to even list, them. Most of the hardware would be unavailable to the home craftsman, anyway. Actually, one does not require 4 large variety, as most any one of the locks or catches can be used on a multitude of cases. The attaching methods lly identical, though some special locks require machines for proper installation. We will show a few. examples of the most common, and offer instructions on how to install them with the least amount of difficulty. 0°77 wee Cearnel skiveD EDGES ® ‘Some catches have a finished backplate so designed that the prongs enter the outer slot, then back through @ second slot to end up inside the backpl J be example (A). This makes a vory However, it . installed with a machine in this manner. A second alternative is shown in example Lack PRoNGs ). Here the prongs enter the outer slot of the backplate and are simply bent inward. Though secure, it is not so attractive (unless the case will have a lining to Most of the “pronged’' locks cover it). A third alternative is shown in example (C). Here the backplate is aban- hav tal backplate that doned altogether. The prongs pierce the flap of the case and bend inward. A piece goes inside the case. The of leather (when a full lining is not used) is glued over the prongs. TI Prongs pierce the leather, secure attachment. then go through the slots ‘of the backplate and crimp over. EDGE VIEW BELOW | PROWGS OF CATCH SIDE THE FLAP (RIE "Gd. EDGE OF FLAP, oR LID Ss SIDE YN *or! PRONGS Some catches have small protuberances on the inside, shown by arrow above. The edge of the flap fits against these protuberances. One method of locating the position of the lock is to install the catch to the flap. Snap lock to catch, fold case together, Press Point of prongs against case to locate Position of the prong slits. This type of lock is used where a flap, or lid, fits over the side of the ‘case, as shown, pvates ers acer rT ) 80 D dort “/ VY BAND neat WLLL EscutcHEon PIN SS nocemlmers Block This lock is very similar to the one above, except that the flap fits within the catch, and ted to it wi To prevent damage to ti lock, place on the edge of Prongs go through backplate and metal. block (above) ar crimp over. See sketch at right hammer the prongs down, acorns CASE LOCKS- Continued ap MusT ae feeders . BoE EDGE OR SCUTCHEON a BUTTON > Far, x Sa SS se escureneon | BE # —, Sug FASTENING te Sus Paanee - — oD oN eo J | Sure RETAINING | agg Loop L00P ztg SPRING= LOADED B ™ Eup CATCHES, ff se These catches come in’a variety of styles and © senna SBE sizes. The small ones are ideal for camera cases died CASE and small projects. The springloaded catch is pushed in to allow the catch to come up, free ‘These catches are used where the flap, or lid, of the case, as illustrated above. of the retaining loop. To close, simply push down through the loop. Example (A) above, has the same prong attachment. as for the catch on the opposite page. For hand installation, use example (B) on the opposite page. . .this is shown in sketch at right. . .in example (C). Some catches (example B, above) must be installed with small escutcheon pins, sxive srrrenes. aa \ THONGING “saive, ne bodes. INSIDE VIEWS; INSTALLED... LINED Before installing the catches, bumish a bit of the flap edge, as it cannot successfully be burnished after the catch has been installed. When lining the flap, glue it over the inside of the catch, The I ould have to end at the edges of the metal. Adding the lining leather makes a smooth interior. Use thonging chisels to punch slits for the pronged attach- ments. If your case is not lined, glue a piece of light leather over the backplate assambly on the inside. HEADS OF ESCUTCHEON PINS, IN FLAP EDGE OF ESGUTCHEON PIN LD (FOP) This type of catch is very thin and is designed to lay flush with the lid and body of the case, although it can be used on _—if_ you wish to use this on an outside flap of an overlapping flap when using lightweight leather. This heavy leather, rivet the top part inside the method was used on the case on page 62. flap, as above. This method was used on the case on page 60. 33 (spaine-carenes | CASE LOCKS~- Continued — [eae views ESCUTCHEON PINS suowing Mow GARGE | SMALL FLUSH WITH CAS EDEE OF LID STYLE A STYLE B . ci ° There are infinite sizes and styles of these catches. Some, with prongs, will have backplates. Others require attach: ing with riveting pins. Large ones may be screwed on if your case has a wood The smaller spring-catches are i base. All are designed to fit flush with ry boxes, g the lid and the body of the case. were used on the attache’ case, TOP EDGE OF CASE ly suited to small leather box-tys case lids, ete, Medium sized catch page 50. INSTALLING THE ESCUTCHEON PINS ib "case BleeK” Fit catch to the case proper position, and s' in holes with awl locate position of p (or rivets). Remove ca and stab through leat with the awl. ATTACH CATCH TO CASE BLOCK. GaSe BLock SeWs 70 SIDE OF CASE Whe POSITION SHOWN. When the lid of the case overlaps the side, a “case block” of leather, equal to the thickness of the lid leather, must be used so the parts of the catch remain flush, as illustrated above. See the case on page 40. SMALL COPPER © MATERIAL TO BURRS \ EQUAL LEVEL Gr opposiTe oo de = (2) Scarew 3 tarca mera acocx [4] (2)-Copper burrs (from No. 14 size copper rivets) can be slipped over the large escutcheon pins, to secure the riveting. (3)-To prevent damaging the lock, place on bench as shown above with the pin head sitting on the edge of a metal block. (4)-Snip off end of pin, close to the burr. (5): ‘a small ball peen hammer (or tack hammer), carefully rivet the pin over the burr. Be sure the head of the pin remains on the metal block! ALTERNATE SUGGESTIONS Sqace FNS sSTIONS | Escutcheon pins can be riveted Spo For small escutcheon pins, a sort of ahowily . against the leather without : Suey using burrs or backplate. This backplate can be made (with tin snips) from an ordinary tin can, or will not be as secure, however, Z ‘a piece of light aluminum. ers but may be acceptable if not" Ba anes much pull is against the pins! SVE 7/46. Ney? 34 The locks at right are ideally suited for luagage, attache’ cases, boxes, or other cases with a firm body. There are many styles, including ones with combination locks. Movement of the button releases the spring catch. Most of these are to be riveted or screwed to the case, although there are “pronged”” models. The edges of the lid and the case must be flush. Psoper positioning of the lock can be accom: plished by snapping the parts together, place on ‘the closed case (before completing the interior) and marking the location of the holes. HO! ayn REGULAR HINGES Ordinary hinges can be attached with escutcheon pins, or rivets. Small screws ‘can be used on cases with a wood body. Screws (with full threads) can also be used successfully on heavy leather cases. If the screws come out inside the case, they can be snipped off with end cutters and filed, or riveted down smooth. This should be done before the case is lined. See the assembly procedures for installing the hinges on the attache’ case, . page 56 on Fe Vg “2 grat screw Cmeras TYPE) wirn PULL THREADS LIFT-THE -DOT The “LIFT-THE-DOT” i very secure fastener. As the name implies, the eyelet ‘must be installed so the pull oo lift, is at thé ‘tuberance). T! not release if properly, as shown on the wrong example of the two straps. This is a good fastener for flap-style cases, saddle bags, straps, ‘etc., where a quick release is desir z wit Nor LET? wer BACKPLATE f Install the post by placing the edge ‘on a metal surface for clinching the prongs, as illustrated in the edge view, at left. bottoms of cases, at the corners, for protect of hinges and the leather. You can substitute BorTom Gr THe tase PROTUBERANCES This type of hinge is designed for luggage, attache’ cases, etc. It attaches to the bottom with the prongs. The protuberances protect the bottom of the case as well as the hinged area, If the body of your case is made of wood, the slits for the prongs can be punched with i 1s, by hammering into the wood. . .with a firm support behind i "ACTUAL SIZE | ‘ACTUAL SIZE METAL STUD Large metal studs can also be used on ather studs, as were used on the attache’ ind bowling ball cases, pages 50 and 87. METAL EDGE spss These are riveted to the bottom edges of brief (and si is completed. These were used on the case on page 66 (left side of page). jar) type cases, after assembly 35 DESIGNING LEATHER CASES When designing a case. . the style or type will depend largely on the item, or items, to be ‘encased. Compartments can be made inside the case to separate a variety of objects. A complex example is shown (right) to accomodate a wide selection of camera equipment. All items must be assembled, measured for dimensions, and grouped for optimum use of space. The measurements will then have to be trans- ferred to paper to ascertain the length, width, and height of the case. Interior divider panels, odd shaped partitions, linings, and/or padded areas will also have to be taken into account. Itis surprising how many items can be enclosed in a limited space if carefully organized, The items should generally be placed in order of most frequent use or ease of access. This will depend on your personal choice. This special custom-made case was made some years ‘ago and is presented here to stimulate your interest in ‘the limitless possibilities of case design. Note the addi- tion of the elongated case, on the lid, to utilize space. No patterns are given for this case, as like equipment is ‘unavailable today. The above view shows the handles encircling the case. The top area is round as with handle No. 20, page 23. This also shows the handle keeper, page 25. The flat part of the handles run through decorative loops, sewn to the case (see page 4, Vol. ONE, “The Art of Making Leather Cases”). Instead of case locks, the closures are with the buckle and billet assembly. From these photos, it is hoped that you may be able to. adapt some of these features and incorporate them to useful advantage on some of your own projects. A leather cease can be made for almost anything! DESIGNING LEATHER CASES Before we actually begin making and assembling leather cases, there are a few things about folding and forming leather, how to determine distances between folds, and many other “little” things that you should first be aware of. . .tomake your case-making more successful and enjoyable. Gouses 45° MITER JOINT Many people have doubts and questions on how to go about laying out a case to fit a particular item. The first thing to consider. . .do you wish the case to fit snug, or have clearance around the item, for easier removal from the case? Below, we will begin with some suggestions regarding the folding of leather, showing @ cross section of leather (enlarged) to illustrate a point. DETERMINING THE INTERIOR SIZE OF A CASE — THE “POINT OF GoUGES"” WOULD BE THE FOLD LINE ON YOUR PATTERN, TO BE GOUGED. \ Thien THIS IS THE DEEPEST PART OF THE GOUGE. \we—— 42" 70 CENTERS OF V- GOUGES ————>» i “{ROLD LINES INDICATED ON PATTERNS )— H EETEEEL LEE EEE, SEES Making fold gouges and beveling for miter joints will not be dwelled upon in this book, This infor- mation is clearly shown LEATHER Sewing Leather” pages 22 and 25! The sketch above suggests the bottom of a case, with ‘gouges 44” apart. Gouges should be a full 4 the depth Of the leather thickness If you assume the inside dimensions of the case will be 4%” when the sides are folded up. . .you will be wrong! The inside dimensions will only measure 4%"" . as the fold takes up % the thickness of the leather at each side. Study the sketch! 4:4" INSIDE DIMENSION Two tapes, set on top of each other, produce the measurements abo\ enp a HOW 70 LAY OUT A PATTERN eee. orenne FOR A TWO-CASSETTE TAPE CASE > We will plan a case for the two cassette tapes shown (upper left). The Ae. actual dimensions are given. The sketches at left show three prospec- OF tt les of making the case. Whichever style you choose, the inside dimensions will be the same. Styles A & B are best for dust protection, and ideal for installing a belt loop on the back. Style C is suited for flat storage and stacking more of the same, one on top of each other, for compactness. A belt loop could be added to the bottom, if desired, with the flap becoming the top, when carried on the belt. After deciding on the style of the case, you must decide on the method of assembly. For our instructional purposes, we will cut the case from one piece of leather, using the miter joint assembly at the corners. We will use 7/8 oz. leather. . .which is approximately 1/8” thick. We will use the “‘top’ opening style (C). OPEMING Laying out the pattern begins on the next page. (continued 37 DESIGNING | free \ #/ »-@ 7 Borrom (por [_ enn ® THICKNESS oF, LEATHER se psse = z | FLAP 8 env @® If! 4 FRONT Ee Borrom Line QL ZZ ZZ LEATHER CASES ~ Continued To lay out the pattern, begin as shown in the steps at left. Beginning with the end view, the pattern will also include the top and the flap. Use a sheet of paper, pencil, rule and triangle (for making the 90 degree angle lines), {A)= Draw a line representing the bottom of the inside of the cas Draw in the end dimensions of the two cassettes: 1 5/16” x 2 3/4”. (B)— Draw a line (shown broken) 1/8" from each side and 1/8” abov the top. This is for clearance within the case. If you wish more or le: clearance this is your option. . .draw in such lines as you desire, (C)— Now draw a line (shown broken) around sides and bottom. . representing the leather thickness. (D)— Draw a line (broken) across the top and down the front to forr the flap of the case. This represents the thickness of the leather. (E)— The only other measurement required is the length. Draw a bottor line, and cassette dimensions. Now draw the outlines of the cas (broken) 1/8” from each end and 1/8” over the top for clearance. Th depth will be the same as in step (B). Study the full size drawings below, giving all measurements. The foli lines for the pattern (point of gouges) are taken from the dimension below. Review page 37 regarding “point of gouges”. For instruction purposes, we'll say that the leather is 1/8” thick (8 o7.). RounD Fear CORNERS CUTTING PATTERN 2/8 on COWHIDE BOTTOM 3600 40 ST LLL Vane As mre @ § 2 e 8 g = = ° S 8 g ® g Ss ; rop oF raonr 70 p06 EDGE OF FLAP TO Po K p nase Cut stiffeners from 7/8 oz. cowhide for top of lid, and bottom of box. Cut 1/16” smaller all around than the Cement the box miter joints together. Place rule inside and record a measurement %”" above the edge of the side. This will be the width of the INTERIOR STRIP. When in place, this strip acts poie ese InANORS 1 asa guide) tol Komp thal Ik signed ut the eae BURNISH, Ter Eos) 7p eoverss. i cei aoa | END | FRONT. | END | | ou INTERIOR STRIP: Cut from 7/8 oz. cowhide, Width from step 7; length from step 8. Make gouges in grain side from measurements taken in step 8. Ends will butt together at center of the back, Moisten gouges; tap sharp folds. together at joints. Apply ce- ment to inside of Fit interior strip inside the case. Trim, if required, to make @ buttjoint at back. Glue strip in place, DO NOT glue beyond % of hinge. If fitting is isfactory, then sew all of the miter case Postion AND THICKNESS OF THE INTERIOR STRIP terior strip in the lid, same as in- structed for the box. . .only set this one down ‘%” from the edge. Glue in place. Fold lid down on case. Mark position of snaps on tabs: install. Snap in place. With lid closed, sew all miter joints, 43 or 24" 5 This is a rugged case; a popular style with salesmen for years. This is a small model using stiffeners only in the bottom and the handle flap. Larger cases can be made of heavier leather, to hold their shape better. . .or. . .can be stiffened on all of the panels as with the case on page 46. The case then would have to be fully lined. The only lining in this case is on the bottom and on the handle flap. ‘through slot of top, ‘in photo et right. BURNISH Tor oF cUT- AWAY View FoR ere: Borrom INSTRUCTIONS. i 2 ‘en and fold. ‘The shaded areas on the pattern below indicate position of stiffeners (1/8" hardboard) Cut out all parts. Make gouges, moist- the handle assembly for easy cl andi the %" slits is determined by tt Handle flap: 4” x 11%", Bottom: 4%" x 11%". HANDLE FLAP bere Et su075 37aNeH ie hore: Locare Gen FRONT. BACK ‘Y2.OF BoTrom WIDTH. TER POSITION OF \ HANDLE, BY USING \ THE gorrom wiDTH | Dimension. 1 | gouge nee l= BROKEN Lines, FOR FOLDS + x CLARITY OF HANDLE FLAP. The slot in the top is cut a bit longer and wider than rance. The distance between CUTTING PATTERN 8/9 oz. COWHIDE cur our THE SLOT IN THE TOP... BURNISH THe EDGES Toras WIDTH fee aMI7 43199: zugis s2s fe58 ino tno ' 1 ‘ ' \ ' ' \ ' i \ = joe = 1, Crattool Alphabet Stamps No, 8137 ap lt See ee | 1 vaelancle Ree eDe aementeeninainel TIEFENER, STIFFENER Ya" MASONITE Punch slots and rivet holes in the handle flap. Matching slots and holes must also be putin the fener, Cut slots out with a chisel after drilling the end holes, or use a coping saw. Slots SAMPLE CASE - Continued POSITION OF GOUGES, ON FLESH SIDE sewme CHANNELS GRAIN SIDES UP Since this case is not fully lined, sewing channels will be between the gouges of the top, and the handle flap, for sew- ing in the ends. Sewing channels will also be made around the handle flap as indicated above; channels should be about 1/8” from the outer edges and 4’ outside the stiffener edge, near the fold gouge. Check stiffener position. Also make sewing in the wood should be a bit larger channels in the end pieces. in the leath LEATHER Tass 6oz Cownpe 312" LONG, BURNISH EDGES BURNISH THIS EDGE BEFORE IN= STALLING CATCH With pliers, pull the tabs up tight, through slots! Fold out- ward, locate rivet holes, and punch, Insert posts of extra large rapid rivets through the holes. Follow with step 8 below. Install catch to flap, snap in lock, fold case together and locate position of lock by pressing prongs against front. Install the lock. jing slots and holes. Moisten sert through slots in leather and the stiffener. Gouses 8) Tum project over, place on a steel riveting surface and “set” the rivets with the rivet setter, a8 at right. Turn case over, glue stiffener to bottom. Now glue lining leather over both stiffeners. . .just inside the fold gouges. Work the lining down around the edges of stiffeners with bone folder. Trim off any excess. Also glue a piece of lining over the backplate of the lock, on inside of case. Skive the edges first. Sew all around the stiffener of the handle flap. No sewing is required at the bottom stiffener. The lining ends will be caught with the stitches when sewing in the end pieces. Note how sides and bottom edges fit in the case (arrows). Cement the ends in place, and sew. Double stitch over the edges at top. 45 Ann and 1 designed this case to take our recording equipment on camping and hunting trips, to record wildlife sounds, etc. It had to be of rugged construc. tion, yet compact enough for storing and handling. We will give you the actual size patterns. If they do not fit your equipment, simply add or decrease from the’ pattern dimensions. The recorder is a General Electric, Model No. 350148, approximately 5%” x 10” x 2 3/8”. We have allowed enough room in the interior for %” foam rubber padding at the bottom, | sides, and ends. x The cutting pattern is on page 48. FouR TAPES SPACE HERE FOR ELecTRIG CORD } asabren y BATTERIES ADAPTER To design the case, place all of the items in the most compact form possible. The adapter (with the socket prongs) was the most troublesome. However, the prongs fit over the end of the recorder, as shown above, without increasing the length of the whole unit. Open tray at Fight, showing “nrs ane We decided a separate case (within the main case) would be more practical for the tapes, batteries, and adapter. By placing the adapter upside down (above) it took up no more height than the ‘tapes. . 50 this was the height arrived at. | knew when the case was made, we could punch some slots in the bottom of the case (for the prongs) and turn it rightside up, knowing the prongs would over the end of the recorder (top photo). Before making the main case, then, the accessory case should be made first. this could alter the dimensions for the main case. 46 * Carving design from: LAYouT FOR BOTTOM OF ACCESSORY CASE a LHe —_ Tapes / ‘*aPreR Paes , Draw bottom dimensions, then position ‘of dividers, to separate the items. Each should have some room for clearance. “Pictorial & Figure Coving Finesse” CASSETTE RECORDER CASE- Continued CUTTING PATTERN MAKING THE ACCESSORY TRAY | te ALLOW va stra aimeiss DB we cor Diviver i #02. cowniDe 9) mensions are arrived at |< PaRrs FROM 40x 7 T] _ from page 46. JS _ COWHIDE. SEE Par. TERN FOR DiM- 32 ENSIONS. sobre Para? Te keee ale] 8 Divipers |2| % Bes 8 Assemble the divid- 7 er parts as shown above. "~~. +" (werait) Glue, rivet, or sew them togeth- er. Assemble the tray as instructed below. Moist- en all fold gouges and tap with hammer for sharp folds, EQUAL COMPARTMENTS FOR BATTERIES wanrey sane etee maRK Posrrions oF | 1. Segment Widens oh aay Le AN (PN ee roee ee : eee emaur NOTE: THESE Gou Ser in "From THe Borfom Gouses Halley Sey f aa ate eer eea Sate Y Fold the ends in and glue to front aun sen, and back, Sew in place. Apply glue to the folded edges of the divider Partitions, and to the inside of the case where they ill adhere. While “tacky”, fit divider assembly in place. When glue “sets”, adhere by tapping with a hammer. This may be all that is required, but the joints can be riveted or sewn, as suggested at left. Punch slots in bottom of tray, in proper location for the adapter prongs. Adapter should be against the end of the tray, on “BATTERIES ® Place all of the accessories in the tray. Now Place the leather tray on the recorder and take the measurements, indicated at left. The pattern dimensions for the main case are taken from these, Add a bit extra, for clearance within the case. 47 Tuek-CATCH Widen CASSETTE RECORDER CASE - Continued 9 THIS CASE. LINE eg) cei ‘BURNISH BLACK LNES) suors Fo HANDLE No. FRONT OF CASE The Tuck-catch was used on this [3] Layout location of the han case. Install the upper part to le. Punch slots, as above, flap. Snap lower part in place. handle No. 2 is used (see page Fold case together and push catch Use other handle style if desire prongs against front to locate Install the lower part of the Tuc Carefully cut out the case. Gouge all position of the catch. catch. broken ‘lines for folds; gouge sewing channels as indicated on pattern, Bur- TNSIDE View oe a 3 | SAME AS OPPOSITE END se 41 72") 1F LEATHER AND ‘STIFFERER 18/8" THICK THICKNESS CR LEATHER | ' } ts 1e= EDGES oF STIPEENER FITS ' | THE Gouge RiGhT AT THE ' INSIDE EDGE OF i THE G0UGES i ee oS tyickwass of rue Q BOTTOM STIPENER DEEPEST Pot ——___ > (OF GouGe THICKNESS OF THE LINING ON THE BOrtom STIFFENER \ 3x Beste CUTTING PATTERN 8x 6/7 0x. COWHIDE as —— wipTH OF THE SFE "Nore" AT BOTTOM Ry STIEFENERS. RIGH? OF PAGE (see srer 4) Study the many notations on ' 1 + ' i 1 2 ! ' i s 1 this page. Full explanations rf - C RS ' are given in the step-by-step in ' se {| | structions. Read all of the f ee la| | structions before cutting any i Sy wy eee 2] materials. Be sure you under | | wey 3 REF a) | stand all of the procedures. i ys 3 ase wet ! S38 = sue |S] | 1 eee || | \ gad ' STIFFENERS 1 Pal ee ' cut FRom 1 £48 i Ye" masoniTe ' oss 4 (HARDBOARD) 1 { ost { SHADED AREAS gy ' INDICATE 8 ayef: BRE i ¢ = POSITIONS OF t a halt a STIFFENERG \ “Bs iran LEATHER | I De |S |) skercn apove sHows { 5 : a CORNER FITTING OF i i y 1 LEATHERS AND { bf I |e : STIFFENERS ' | | ' 1 i NOT. END-(S)DE) Let54 eg tare tines THys prarance 1s Lese THe pounte > Poa hieineee or centnen cane ih Double THICKNESS OF STIPFENER TOP (LID) THICKWESS. OF LEATHER THreKNESS oF STEREWER (See ster 5) For the top, make all ar ‘SAME AS OPPOSITE SIPE—>| te outside pores TSS", THICKNESSES OF LEATHER AMD The other dimensions STIFFENER. THIS Wik BE THE are exactly the same as SAME ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE END! the bottom. 51 Lcue ermine ATTACHE CASE - Continued ‘SKIVE BOTH ® FLESH STITCHING FROM SDES. ‘STEP2 Enlarged view below shows position of ‘the bottom stiffener next to the gouged edges. EDGE OF. Jgouaes CHANNEL, Sew TOP EDGE BETWEEN M/TER JOINT CHANNELS. STIFF 2 SRAIN SIDES ENER, Moisten gouges, tap sharp folds to preform Lay case out flat. Cut a bottom st Ro, case, Cut four lining strips from 1% oz. to fit at the edge of the gouges. Glue Pets leather 1%” wide, slightly longer that the —_ lining leather (your choice) to stiffener; sides (gold metallic cowhide was used on trim off flush with edges. Now, carefully ‘ours to add a touch of sparkle). Skive each glue stiffener to the bottom of the case. edge to a feather. Glue to top edges of the _Stiffener must not extend into the gouged areas. sides (above) and sew. gy TOP FRGE OF Sibe LEATHER me f= é \ RAS - (4 Fold one side of case CORNER feners, m d the edge of the miter joint equals the thickness of the leather (to the outside S up at right angles. os 5 ge), reduce the measurement of the if cae re areerah ie » 2a rela 8" enc se) to allow ag Saiou leathers “Thin iis i¢ha for the stiffener thicknesses (see cutting gr width to cut all side stif Pattern) 2of feners! 38 ay porrom unin BOTTOM STIFFENER a 2grrom oF EDGE OF GOUGE Z lel aeamece SUR EAVLENIS DOLE FOR STEP 5: To clarify instructions, we know the gouge lines for the bottom measure 12” x 17%”. Assuming the leather is 1/8” thick, and the stiffener is 1/8” thick, then the stiffeners for the front and back sides would be 17%” long (see pattern). Now, the length of the end stiffeners will be 11%" because we have to reduce the length by Ver icknesses of the leather, and by two thicknesses of the stiffener HARDBOARD material (study the notations on pattern. Sgr bus seers au, ueees EI #8 hit Coghek ie Teh PIECES SHOULD Now glue the stiffen- BE THE SAME WIDTH ers in place. Top edges must i be aligned. The ends of the << Cut out the stiffeners. Both ends front and back pieces fit right at should be the same; front and back edge of miter. The end pieces must ‘the same, Our material was cut with set in from the miter edge as in 1 a hand saw. Use a power saw for ted in step 5. Use care when gluing enges—ai ST/FFENER more accurate cutting, if it isavailable. _thestiffenersin place. (continued) | AUS 1 Linn SrRIP LEATHER 52 EDGE VIEW ATTACHE CASE - Continued LINING STRIPS Rom Ser: = g Your project should now look like the above sketch. lining strips. When assem: Stiffeners glue on top of thi CUT-AWAY VIEW SHOWING HANDLE REMEMBER TO ADHERE INSTALLATION TOTHE PROPER SPACING HERE REVIEW STEPS Do wor EXTEND BEYOND THE EDGE OF THE LINING STRIP STIFFENER HANDLE Install the handl 6, 7, 8, on page 45. Ski tabs. Skive very thin at lining strip), exactly as shown in steps ny excess bulk off, of the bled, this actually makes a leather covered wooden box, LINING STRIP Now glue the lining strips tightly over the edges of the stiffeners (arrows above). The burnished edge of the case lini ips should be flush. and the top of the lining s LINING STRIP TURNED OVER EDGE OF THE Sree aunvisien e20e STIFFENER STEP 2 CHANNEL FROM STEP 1 MITER EDGE 13} sow instal the locks to the front side (see pattern and location). See page 32 for installing the various case locks and hardware. TRIM FLUSH With Tae ‘ST/FFENER OM END PIECES, ONE STITCH Witt BE ExP0SED. Do Nor Cur THREAD! BURNISHED Fray LINING AROUND THE STITCH case 12 With a sharp knife, trim off excess lining as indicated above. Observe the notations. Notice how the end stif- feners fit inside the SIDE STIFFENERS WeRin Fe front & back OveRLAP THE Borrom ee en Apply cement to all miter joints and ends of stiffeners. Fold up; adhere joints (see step 15). Stiffeners of all sides should overlap the bottom stiffener. They should fit snug! This locks the bottom assembly in place. Now sew miter joints at all corners. Review pages 23, 24, of “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather”, if neces- sary. (continued) ATTACHE’ CASE - Continued sKive END IURNISH TOP EDGE Teel Geen on tee There will be a slight gap and roundness i ACTUAL ee) i ASSEMBLY ‘on outside corners. This is desireable, as lid will fit easier over the corners. He aa ‘DETAIL OF CORNER With the bottom ofthe case completed, cut a length of After fitting leather, remove from the case and 8/9 oz. cowhide to fit inside the front and both ends, and _stall two dees as shown above. Punch slots in leather %" higher than the sides. Gouge for the corner folds on at a 45 degree angle. Remove some leather bel the grain side. . .it should be a tight fit! Trim to fit snug _the slot (flesh side) with a French Edger to reduce against the back side. This strip serves as a lining for the bulk of the inside tab, Insert tabs through the slots aug and the raised edge acts a guide to keep the top and rivet the dee assemblies in place, (lid)'atigned. BURNISH TOP MAKING THE 2 CARVED SCENE TOP (LID) GLUED BEHIND tACeD cur-our sovaes sHoun BE EXACTLY AS THE Borrom See cur. Learner Oversize PATTERN sit LINES ON ; FLESH SIDE Glue the leather inside the case, Now cut a back leather (same height and thickness) to 19) fit tightly between the ends. Do not glue to Layout tie enone the case yet (if used) and lace edges. Lacing instructions on page 81. Glue the carved scene in place. Be sure edges have been skived. LINING STRIP SKIVE THIS When leather is dry, recheck all measurements; adjust if EDGE ONLY required. Now gouge fold lines and cut out the top. Prepare exactly as shown in step 1, Do not punch handle slots! TOP LINING ~ 403. COWHIDE BURNISHED EDGE Cut lining strips for the top, 2%" wide (same material used in step 2). Skive one edge only. [57 Glue to the sides (above) and sew. This is the same as step 2, page 52. Now cut a stiffener for the top. If your measurements and gouges have been accurate, it should be exactly the same siz as the bottom. Cut a lining out of 4 oz. cowhide, a bit larger than the stiffener. Do not glue the lining to the stif- er fener. . .yet! (continued) ATTACHE’ CASE - Continued LIGHT gouses ena FLESH SEWING CHANNEL, DURABLE Der; Maar Se sie ARE ie a SYN, ay i ¥ POCKET MAKE Two 2ez. Pigskin, moRocco R@arcncnals GOAT, OR SIMILAR = 34 FRONT PANEL ‘on, connie This can be carved to. personalize: the interior, if desired. Make the front panel. Burnish all edges. Gouge sewing channels at each side. Set 3 durable dot eyelets in center, spaced 1” apart down from lightweight, firm leather, ither. Moisten gouges and fold as Gussers. GRAIN oz, LINING OF TOP, FROM Step 21. "GRAIN SIDE UP CENTER THE Gssemacy ot ‘ON THE LINING Sew pocket assembly to the front panel. Set down 3/8” from the top. ® wow turn pocket assombly upside down and sew bottom edge of the front Panel to the top lining, as at right. 1g | SURNISK ERGES o" LARGE DURABLE DOT Oars strap of 4/5 oz. cowhide ‘to dimensions above. Install snap and sew to top of lining (right). Fold pocket assembly up. Glue dee and tab to edge of gussets (both sides) 1” down from top edge. See details below. Carefully G) Cut_ two restraining tine up edges of gussets. Fold assembly flat gssaoe 3/8" wideand 17 lang {p,locete top of gussets, on lining leather. frames $12" wicpand 17”fon NOTE: Bottoms of gusset leathers wili i overlap bottom edge of front panel about 1%". Glue down; sew. (right). The unit is now ready to assemble. Instructions continue on page 56, with By sriren step 22. hak Lea rtie ait re CY TABS STRADDLE EDGE OF qusser LEATHER 55 ATTACHE CASE - Continued CAUTION: Be sure you have the TUCK ResTRarwée SrRArs top of the pocket assembly to the ASIDE, THE Packers ro top of the carving on the lid! 22 rs and glue in place. See step 4 Now, glue the pocket assembly to the top stiffener for determining the width. All should be the sam (see step 21). Trim off excess lining flush with stiffener width. The lengths of the stiffeners should be the edges. Carefully glue assembly to top. This is the same same @s those used on the bottom of the case (see as step 3, page 52. step 5) FLUSH wird SHORT Dee ScRews SEWING FROM ‘S7EP 20 (es) Install hinges to back side (see pattern for posi tion), Install the lock catches to th Note the lining strips are not yet turned. NOTE: Snip, or file off, ends of screws if they come through the stiffeners, on the inside, Lining STRIP (sre? 20) Glue lining strips over the stiffen- ers, same as step 11. Trim excess Follow steps 12, 14, 15, to complete the top. Fit top to the case and screw hinges to the bottom (right). 14" leather circles can be glued to case (arrows) for standing support, to clear the hinges. restraining straps ; through dees. Adjust NOTE: |Top ends of back piece MY so top will not fall for- TES!" should be slightly trimmed. Glue back piece (step 18) to back of case, Ward: Markcrivethole, Pull Glue the top corners as shown above. se Oe ct ae. on os This pulls corners in a bit to insure punch rivet holes. Replace ar * that the edges of the lid will not catch rivet the restraining strap to here, when closing. dee (see below). NOTE: ‘Small screws can be used RIVETING THE STRAP: Tum the case up on end, and partially close lid to. _inside case if glue does put slack in the restraining strap. Place a riveting iron under the rivet, next to not hold. Place them %" dee, and hammer rivet together. The straps can also be attached with eyelets, down from edge and 56 _ using the eyelet plies about 2” apart. 10" x16" x3 Handle No. 18 LADIES” BRIEF CASE This is a trim little case that has some special features, The rounded handles attach directly to the sides (other handle styles can be used). The top edges are stiffened i with a pair of %”’ steel rods, leather covered, with brass E covered ends. The special gussets and bottom are rein- { forced with 1/8" hardboard stiffeners, It is fully lined, f with large interior pockets. It features buckstitched t assembly. See note on gusset pattern if you wish hand f sewing assembly. MAKING THE GUSSETS PRESS Linn mar oP OF STIFFENER, INTO FOLD @ Flatten gusset and glue stif- fener in place (see pattern). 3) sketch at right: Cement light lining to flesh side; cut ¢i oversize. Adhere as shown. Moisten and fold. hing fold (A) em GOUGE ALL BROKEN LINES, FOR FOLDS, “| MOTE: On GUSSET AND THE 3/8" MARGINS CASE PATTERNS ARE FOR BUCK- automatically forms folds (B). Fold up at bottom: adhere. Fold (C) back. Tap folds (A) and Make cuts in lining (arrows). Now adhere lining around the sides. (8) for sharp bends. Trim off all excess lining, K i : 5 BURNISH | t I { | Buckstitch (or sew) feu TaiNe ' | top edge of gussets ~ AT TERN 1 | as shown at right. afte Senne 1 | Stay 3/8” awayfrom |... #4" I 1 | the sides. 1S eee NOTE: Total thickness of | f {Gontinusd) case should be about 8/9 oz, | i If the case is cut from 6/70z. | & 1 leather, the liningshouldthen | $8 I be cut from 1402. to20z. | & Sy ! CUTTING eer | S8x 1 PATTERN => || I : 1 88 | ror ausser a % 1 Sar usar y is tag 4oz.cownbe = | | ao gs Rtas i : i ie ' ie 1 Lo ' i be i 1 i 1 1 i | : StrreMne. USE V4 | WA ee Nanas 12 You ARE | 1 : Gone 70 SEW ' ia ey k 10" a >| * Carving deson from: “Inverted Leather Carving". Graal Alphabet No. 2710 Cut two rod covers from TA oz. leather, 2%" wide and 16” long. Skive ends and sides. Cut two %" steel or iron rods 16” long, File the ends smooth. The rods should be as straight as possible. To msuRE RIVETING WiLL Hotp, cap Mus? BE FORCED INTO Cut four circles out of 11% to 2 oz. leather, 1% all around to a feather edge. Punch a hol Post of the rivet cap in the hole and secure by ti durable dot setter. Set cap in anvil. cAP PENCIL STEEL ROD [Bl seri at tein nis sasem- (Sl wim ay, de westerns scr coca pointed star. Moisten leather, shape over pencil This makes @ nice finish for the rod encs. li9) Apply cement to flesh side of rod cover and to the i rod and flanged cap-leathers. Place rod in centers fold leather around it. Pinch together with pliers and/or prs firmly with bone folder up tight against the rod. The unit is now ready to install. 7/8 oz. cowMIDE \/ case carcw DETERMINE STYLE. SIZE, AND POSITION OF HANDLES AY THIS Time. Fold the leather strip snugly over the case, rods close together. Mark a trim line as shown, Put a light mark on the case panel, where the end of ‘the trimmed leather will be. Cut out the case. Gouge bottom folds, Install the case lock, in center, 1%" to 2" down from top edge of panel. Babb foment rod assem es 0, top ‘this will be temporary). Moisten gouges and fold up, as above,” Rubber cement gussets in case {tgmporary). Cut a strip of leather (above) and attach the catch to one end, Snap into the lock. pwanisy LADIES’ BRIEF CASE- Continued — sxwe ToP EDGES SIE. epees Lina STITCHES ONE FULL INCH FROM TOP EDGE STIFFENER Remove gussets and rod units. 16 @) Glue stiffener to bottom, out flat; punch buckstitching then glue lining over it. Press around ‘See note below.concemning Sew handles to side panels. stiffener with bone fold buckstitching. Sew catch leather in place goes to gouges; trim (see arrows above). with edges of case. BURNISH TOP EDGE OF PANEL LINING POCKET 6" LIGHTLY Gouge BROKEN LINES MOISTEN; FOLD TTB) cus tnngs 10 it. side % anels (above). Allow about fi9} Frat ceeerel: lone abot 119] sake pockets of ight leather todimen- Sew bottom of pocket to trim later. sions above. Bottom folds and tabs rivet, 2s panel lining. Glue sides Shown in step 20 ilustration, rRim FLusH ay panel on edge of bench, with 21 the edge. Re-punch the lacing i si gong through rod leather and top gare, Punch | le ir ‘edgé of the lining. Buckstitct a Siue Tae rane Fo ees ‘of one edge as shown, before installing ‘edges. Continue buckstitch- Side panels. Ge sure the top the gussets, .. making this edge easier to. ing, to complete the pro: rod. Trim, lace. ject. SPECIAL NOTE: NOTE: —— " | By altering the top of See "How to the gusset (as at left), P the case will open wider Backstitah iA foe at the top. This will er spacing Mot alter the folds. in sree ootoee step 1. Fold C will have lacing at, stress SRegeaehenge Craftool lacing nip- | Poportant infor, | when case is closed. pers work well for | mation re-punching slits around the gussets. Be 15 x 15%" molSTEN Ate GOUGES AND FOLD/ Cut out all parts. Gouge all folds. Carve design. Gouge sewing channels around all edges (bottom piece excepted). Bevel miter joints. ‘assemblies to front and back panels. 60 This case was specifically designed to hold a 4 x 5 Speed Graphic camera, film holders, light meter, etc. The interior ‘can be made to hold ar 1s you wish. The opposite page shows compartment dividers with good, solid construction features, When planning interior compartments, always lay ‘them out (full size) on paper. Allow for thicknesses of leathers, paddings, or whatever is to be used. Be sure your items will fit within the case before cutting any leather. MAKE DEEP. V- GOUGES ‘AT ALL FOLD LINES er ‘This case was made in 5 pieces to conserve leather. The bottom edges of back, front, & ends, fold under the bottom piece; giue and sew, CAUTION: The bottom is cut %”" undersize (ends & sides) to accomodate the thicknesses of the miter joints (1/8” on each side & each end). See the top view sketch at left. wai Sb nates gumusa tne sorros | enced ae thet Acct (HEAVY LINE) BEFORE ASSEMBLY / sussesrer USN ee vase | Gaekiens | wz 6S THICK NESS OF ITER CORNER Sew PaRTs To sorrom. Alone THIS Bottom view showing Fold case together. NI snug fit of 45 degree Mark location of Cement bottom to front Cement ends in cuts. Sewing channels lock. Install lock and back. NOTE: Mitered edges place. Mitered comers should be made in step to front; catch to must extend beyond the ends of should all be equal. If 1. Sew all parts to the the flap. the bottom piece. not. ..adjust. bottom piece. BACKEN LINE LINING BOTTOM FOLDS~ FORM COVER - SuaGESTS. eMac cualey: ouraiwe ew so ee Heke & by lee P| Evouan ro 5 48° ae |) FOLD AR- a to RE : AS | i you ‘enTueR FOR : Pon toe : Glue foam in place. (Cut lining a bit oversize, From pre;plans, lay out position of dividers on the Pull cover over ‘snug, and fit into the case as shown lining. '%” foam padding will go on back & front, to and glue, or sew. ti above. be covered with soft garment type leather. Sew one ottom edge to’ the edge to the lining, at the top of the foam area (above). ining. End. the cover at the bottom fold. FORM COVER DIVIDERS... 9/10 7 PRESS LINING. FIRMLY IN Toe Folps = CEMENT CiNiNe cur NERS Carefully fit lin- ing in place. Cement the bottom first, then ad- here front and back.’ Add lin- ing to the ends; trim off excess. 7 7 See step 11, page 65, Vol. |, “The Art If you had planned any other interior fittings such as of Making Leather Cases” for’ trimming pockets for lenses, etc., they should be + joints, after I sewing in the dividers. If you are using additional partitions, " you will have to plan out the assembly procedures to be sure you do not run into an impossible sewing situation, Now, fold the lining together and glue the di Sew ‘them to the lining (above). A foam p: CUT-AWAY VIEW SHOWING How AWL ANELES THROUGH DIVIDER AND LINNG COMPLETING THE CASE: Follow steps 13, 14, 18, 16, 17, on page 49. The steps are iden: bottom (inner compartment) can be made and pushed except for the ends. Here, the lining is not down to the bottom. Apply glue, first, so it will adhere to trimmed off at the gouges. Be sure you under- the bottom. stand each step hefore heginning a project! 61 a6 < Seebelow * eouses BuRWisH THIS 20GE Cut out gussets. Make fold gouges. Put center mark (c. m.) at bottom. FLESH SIDE Moisten all This is a simple fold-over underarm case with narrow gussets, containing a zippered compartment in the middle (the zippered ‘compartment can be omitted, if desired). Handles can be added if you wish, A full size gusset pattern is given on the opposite page. Cut the case from 6 oz. cowhide to the dimensions below. Place marks at the bottom (bottom center of gusset) ‘and marks (near flap) where the top edge of the gussets will end. . .see pattern. Now fold gusset back as shown (left). Tap folds with hammer. ‘Shape outside gouges up and gouges. Fold on around the curved bottom. the center gouges first (above). Allow to dry. WAKED PAPER, TO PREVENT PREMATURE ADHESION Apply cement to edges of case and gussets. Begin adhering by aligning center marks at ‘the bottom. THs SA TEMPORARY FITTING. the case. Cement the other gusset in (continued) (6) Start rolling gusset. Keep Complete adhering one edge. 7B) Nrcusn ar eves edges aligned; press with If gusset extends beyond fingers, Roll back of case up. ‘edge, it must be trimmed and re-burnished. Roll case in opposite direction to adhere ‘the other edge. If gusset top extends CUTTING PATTERN beyond the mark, trim off excess, 6 oF. COWHIDE CHANNEL wom] SEWING CHANNEL, 62 * Carving design and siphabet from : “Inverted Leather Carving. Borrom ‘STOP? [14] cut two pieces of light lining leather to dimen- sions above. Make a zipper, but do not install bottom stop! Cement zipper in place. A Remove gussets from case. Apply glue inside center section, and both edges of divider ends. Adhere in place, with top edges flush. SPECIAL NOTE: These lines continue straight . . to join lines at the top of the page, completing the pattern. SC ACTUAL SIZE Lay case flat, measure case. Reduce this by %" , between gusset center for bottom clearance of : Fold flap down. Mark posi. folds. This is the length of the divider. Divider depth; [327 tion of the case lock and the center divider. 10%", catch, . FouD Ss ‘ SLIME \. INSTALe BarroN 5 power \X Ve asst ine Taek e = [3] Fold gusset flat. Tap with hammer. Scribe a line 3/8” from edges on both sides. “Wheel’” one side and sew ‘through gusset and divider (above). GUSSET PATTERN CUT FROM 40x. COWHIDE FOLDED Top EDGE. Now measure depth of Remove the zipper slide (A) separating zipper ‘tapes. This makes sewing the zipper tape easier. After sewing, replace slide, zip together, and install stop (B). Apply cement to all edges, and top fold, on flesh side. Fold together as ‘shown at right, adhering all edges. Tap top fold. Trim lower 5 corners (C). Sew bottom edge (D). ee UE or aBcur v2" Z/PPER FACES FRONT OF CASE Nore: WHEN REMOV- IN GUSSETS- STEP 17, MARK THEM 70 RETURN To THE SAME Peace. SEWING chaynet. [15] Install the lock and catch. Re-cement all edges and adhere the gus- set assembly to the case. Follow steps 5 through 9, on the opposite page. Gouge a channel in gussets. Sew ‘together, burnish the edges. NOTE: If you wish to leather line the case, do so before step 19, The top edge of the front should be sewn and burnished before assembly, . .as it will be easier! NIC ye eouiees CENTER MARK ‘SEE STEPS “Nandi No DIPLOMAT CASE This case differs from the one on page 62 only by using a squared gusset and handle assembly. A full size gusset pattern | ison the opposite page. . .case dimensions are below. gouges, ON Flas Sie BURWISH THIS EDGE Cut out gussets. Make all gouges as shown on the pattern. Moisten gussets and make all folds (above) same as steps 2, 3, on page 62. Fold edges and bottom up. Allow to dry. £3) sappy coment to edges of gussets and case. Begin adhering bottom of gusset between the bottom gouges of the case. Continue as in steps 6, 7, 8, on page 62. Here, cuts (A) must fit tight together when rolling ‘the case, If gusset extends, at front edge, trim and re-burnish. Gusset top should be about %”’ from the first fold gouge at the top of the case. If you do not wish to install a zipper, the top of the divider can be left open (above), ALTERNATE DIVIDER SUGGESTIONS Remazane CHANNEL, CUTTING PATTERN \w 6/7 ox, COWHIDE 3 FLAP TOP fp ed i | 1s couse Att | Wg Eines St gs 1 es | Leet ' | ieee ——_ 04 16 fe 64 + caving dco a phabt fom: Inve Leather Casing” GUSSET PATTERN SEE BELOW DIPLOMAT CASE CONTINUED SKIVE OFF ENDS ‘OF TABS, To STAY WITHIN GouGES Posirion oF ‘sLo7s 1S. DETERMINED BY YOUR HANDLE ASSEMBLY a pe ; Remove gussets from the case. Center the SOUGES Position of the handle on the top, and q Punch two slots to accommodate the tabs. Pull tabs tightly inside case. Fold out and glue down. Cut a top stiffener from 9/10 02, cowhide to dimensions shown. This will glue to the top, cove tab ends. aurnisi at © EDcEs yas FRENCH EDGE TOOL \> HanLe ue” TABS FADE OUT GOUGED AREAS AT THE SIDES to the top as shown, just inside ‘of the gouges. Tab’ recessions should fit over the tabs. Tap with “[i0] Now. . .alue the stiffer a hammer to insure good adhesion. CASE CATCH spake Faces ing to the positions of the tabs. Make cuts, or gouges, at ore, the sides to aid in gouging out the recesses (above). glued over the tabs, this makes a smooth appearance inside. actly as instructed in steps 17 and 18, page 63. |. BACKPLATE, OF CASE ‘together, gouge sewing channels all around, inside of the gussets. ‘Sew the case together. . .burnish all of the edges. Install the lock components to the case. Cement the gussets in the case as instructed in steps 3 and 4, cRAF TOOL | i STITCHING GROOVER If the case is to be leather lined, do so before this step. The top edge of the front should be sewn and burnished before assembly. . 28 i SPECIAL NOTE: ‘These lines continue straight .to join lines at the top of the page, completing the pattern. GUSSET PATTERN “¥ ACTUAL SIZE CUT FROM 4 02. COWMIDE BRIEF CASE | Accordian Gusset Three versions of this case are shown. All are made with the same gusset construction, though the sizes and flap styles varied to accom- modate customer's desires. These cases are designed for rugged, long lasting service, Our personal case (lower right) has been in service for ‘over 20 years and is still in excellent condition. RIE ¢, THOMAS“) TBC. Garten Specific patterns are given for one of the cases, You can alter them in | | any way you wish, once you understand the construction techniques. | The top, at handle assembly, is reinforced with a piece of 1/8” strap iron, Make the case from 7/8 oz. or 8/9 oz. cowhide. Use 1% oz. or 2 02, lining leather. This should be of vegetable tannage, so the edges will burnish after sewing the case. sur t0 the lining, Flap covers customers name on the front Closed gusset shows | Expanded gusset ustrater the en's carrying eapecty. j {A further variation le shown with the overlayed horse ~~ shoe fnsed horn fend This sae features & ull ‘ASE SIZE: ‘hrved design, enhanced by a buckstitehed border. Rose APPROXIMATELY able im meny books and publications, 13" 1718 x 6° HANDLE No. 12 ‘The patterns for this case are given on this page. Carefully observe all dimensions and all of the nota. tions before cutting the leathers, The thickness of the case leather is determined more or less by the thickness of the | Ye Nor too light. A total thickness of about 10 oz. is desireable, The bottom and the gussets must be cut from light weight leather, especially i bi | | | si cur s NOTE: This panel is %” shorter than sy eussers 4 sorrom ci the back panel, to compensate for the | From thickness of the strap iron atthe top, | 2/2 on CounipE | SLIGHTLY ROUND { ‘Mal orton CORNERS BRIEF CASE Accordian Gusset - Continued SPECIAL NOTE: Complete the gusset and bottom assem- bly before cutting out the parts of the ‘case, as dimensions may change due to the differences in leather thicknesses, Instructions begin on the next page, You wish to use. ‘ou do not want the total thickness to be too heavy, Borrom OF PAGE lined, or the folding capa- ities will be restricted when completed. EXTENDED FLAP IS op TioNAL I can BE CUT 1 A DIAMOND SHAPE, OR AS YoU WISH BorTom > 2/3 02, COWHIDE ~~ STRAP IRON Ya" x 3/4"x 1672" BACK PANEL CUT CASE FROM 7/8 oz. OR 8/9 ox. COWHIDE cur From 7/8 02. OR 8/9 ox. COWHIDE. T 1%" GUSSETS § BOTTOM Ks] SHOWING PosiTiON OF Gouces cur FROM 2/3 oz. COWHIDE Z GOUGE FOLDS ON ALL OF . THE BROKEB LINES VA GUSSET END- FULL SIZE > facies SKIVE a orHEse resus. EDGES SiDes uP ef Borrom — “Borrom oF GusseT fa Ce The first step is to cut out the bottom and the two gussets, Make all gouges as indicated on the patterns. Be as accurate as possible. Skive off about ¥ thickness of the areas shown above. Skive at both ends of the bottom piece. PUSH UP LB) pow make the angular folds at bottom of gussets. Tap sharp folds on edge of bench. Allow gussets to dry. FOLD LINING 2 Back side (at arrows) Now fold lining back from creases. Apply cement to flesh sides of sur- faces (A). Place on bench; adhere surfaces (A), 2) to fle ‘mine ||| Bowe FOLDER [3 poy cement owing sections ‘of gusset. Force lining into folds with bone folder to adhere. Trim off all excess lining. under 68 BRIEF CASE Accordian Gusset— Continued Apply cement to all of the lining, but only to the center section of gusset on flesh Fold lining back, apply cement sides of surfaces (B). EXCESS AT TOP Trim off lining just ‘the gouge, only at the top. Use care not to cut into the gusset. BOTTOM Now, moisten the leathers at gouges. Make first fold in center (A) grain sides together. Next, folds (B), flesh sides together. Folds (C), grain sides together. Tap each fold, as you go, with a ham- mer on ahard surface. USE FLAT SIDE OF BONE FOLDER CREASE WITH Poin, ee LINING. GRAIN SIDE CUT LINING FROM SKIVER. OR SIM- ULAR LEATHER. Cagour £ ox.) cor Oversize. Center the lining on center gouge. Work with bone folder to adhere to gusset (at arrows). ADHERE. SURFACES B BE 'SEND THE LAST FOLD. Now adhere surfaces (B). Rub with bone folder. Lining should overlap the sides of the gusset. BURNISH Top EDGE wl Now line the bottom piece, following steps 4 through 8. Trim off excess all around. Make NO trimmings as in Step 10! LINING SDE x BRIEF CASE Accordian Gusset — oprges SAWING END oF eusser Le. PT Borrom 12) TB) geaw'sie ue Moisten gouge at gusset top. Fold end over; tap Flatten the bottom and f meh hammer, Cement down. Gouge sewing gussets as much as possible a Uitn is'on both sides, and sew. Stay within 91Ns\the edges togetheras indicated gras |W of the sides. : Sbove (large arrows). Do not glue out ETHER = TO side the dotted arrows EF gort08m (points A). ® ee 15] Moisten sewn edges (step 14) and invert. Tap with ham- mer. Adjust assembly as shown below. Align points (A). INVERTED SEWN EDGE FROM STEP 14 ‘Sketch shows units joined. Sew the edges together. Glue the other gusset to the other end of the bottom; sew in same way. DIVIDER LENGTH INVERTED SEWN EDGE INSIDE OF FOLDS 16) determine length of divider by fitting a strip of cardboard bet ween the folds, at bottom. Trim as required until it fits snug. 00 NOT attempt to measure at the top! Dividers can be made of card- board covered with thin leather or cut from heavy leather. DIVIDER PATTERN Le Tain commens ar 9° perro ase 374 Fo CLEAR INVERTED Bean (£7) sake two dividers to dimensions shown above. Divider fits snug in the fold of the bottom, and in the gussets. @ With @ small brush, apply glu side the bottom of the folds of the gussets and the bottom, and to the edges of the dividers. Carefully adhere in place. Dividers should fit snug against all folds. Gouge sewing channels on both sides of folds. =f... Saw in place, to within 1” of SEW “inverted seams and 1” over ‘top of the dividers Sew one divider, then install the other. DIVIDERS SEWN IN PLACE CconrimueD ) ‘Sketch shows unit ready to assemble. 6 PETRI, BRIEF CASE : @ [Wer oF case [Eo] —/ the width to cut the case, OVAL TS a/afea SKIVE THICKNESS OF METAL OFF FLESH SIDE OF OVAL. Cut out the oval, and prepare it for assembly as suggested above. This cements over the lion to act as a frame. Sew the short section through the oval, only, ‘as shown, just beyond the width of the catch. REASON: This area lays on top of the catch, You cannot sew through metall This will give the appearance of continuous sewing, when the case is completed. i. @ Push the copper rivets through the holes in the strap holes in the top of the case, iron and up through the from the inside, 70 CORNERS Z Lay gusset assembly on bench. Hold points (A) together; measure. This should be 17%”. If not, turn over and check opposite side. If different, use the shortest measurement. This will be HOLES iN TOP OF CASE Ge 7 i Ga \<— No.8 COPPER RIVETS PEPE i L_ \q— wivTH-STER 20—" SF Bauien EDGes 21 Cut out the Gouge top folds, moisten and fold as above. Locate lock position as above. Use a book, or other item, to equal thickness of top. Place In panels. Be sure all edges are aligned, Zier mete sao Tae (2a) Carefully cement the oval in Position. Sew all around the inner circle. Now, sew around the outer edge beginning at one of the large arrows, and ending at the other. DO NOT sew beyond these points! Sew- ing will continue here as_in- structed in step 36. (The lion head is enlarged from “Figure Carving Finesse”), coppER BURR in step 7, on page 4, Accordian Gusset - Continued END THE CHanNecs Hee Carve and stamp the design. In stall the lock and catch. Maki sewing channels all around fron’ panel, End the ct a (above). Cement lining to the front panel and sew the top adge iannels on flap shown by heavy arrows only; burnish, Do not cement a lining to the back panel and flap yet. Note: See page 7, vol. | for mak- ing tabs & shields. DISTANCE BETWEEN (<— River HOLES = Make the handle assembly. Measure distance between rivet holes in tabs. Center this on top of case and punch No. 4 holes. Drill corresponding holes in strap iron, From outside the case, place tabs over the rivets, burr on ivet, and “set”. Strap iron should be on a metal ing surface, “‘Dome’ the rivet heads as shown BRIEF CASE Ac. DovBLE stireH OVER THE EDGE ES , 28] Glue the shields down to the top of the case, and begin sewing. The first few stitches will go by the side of the strap iron ‘on the inside of the case, ‘cur-away wew As you reach the point of the shield, more angle of the awl is re- quired. Turn project over to continue sewing back down opposite side, ang! ing awl in the opposite direction, over the other side of the iron Top oF FRONT sewing Panee omanners, a— TRIM CORNERS [3S een es front panel. Align all edges. Gouge sewing channels in gusset. Sew to- gether. Double Of gusset, for strength. Burnish case, edges. ull tight! (37)-Continue sewing in two long stitches. This is necessary, to avoid sewin Backstitch; cut off threads. (40)-Trim lining at eatch CASE LEATHER 18 cor-away To SHOW How THE Aw. BYPASS- Repeat step 33 with back When sewing up to the itch over top edge _panel. Complete sewing the THE LONGER cordian Gusset - Continued | THETRON 9g As sewing turns toward point of shield, you must angle the Pull leather back away from awl to miss the strap iron, iron, and angle awl (above), StiTcHEs FROM STEP 28 GLE UNDER Enps oF \j Sewing TRON CHANNELS ws 32] After sewing shields, cement lining to the back and flap. Trim off excess. Work lining into gouges with bone folder. Gouge sewing channel in the lining, around flap and a short distance beyond the top folds, of back panel. re oval, take the last stitch (thread A) down from the top, as shown. Pull tight! Both threads are now on the INSIDE VIEW le of the flap. BELOW el FROM STEP 23 SritcHes TP LINING last stitch (in oval), down into channel in the lining. Bring thread regular manner. (38)-Inside view of steps 36 & 37 showing 9 over the edge of the oval, (39)-Sew to stitches at catch, n DES/GNING A TRAVEL ACCESSORY CASE — A PRELUDE TO ZIPPER AND WELT CONSTRUCTION — ELECTRIC SHAVER, TUBE TOOTH-PASTE IN CASE Zippered cases are usually not too difficult to design in : x ees" that the dimensions can be a bit larger than the items ab er to be contained and do not have to be as exacting, say, as for cameras, lenses, etc, The Travel Case offered here is for a few of a man’s toiletry items. Other personel items can be included, Measurements for the size of the case will be determined accordingly. oma Assemble all items as compactly as practical, suggested in the photo at left. There are no limitations as to the ne manner in which you wish them arranged. 8 - SMALL BOTTLE} ASPIRIN DENTAL FLOSS AUS ASA Now. . .you must measure the height (highest. app /2 pt point of the stacked items); width (widest t a menesr CONT part of all items); and length (which includes oe e the dental floss, here). These are the actual dimensions of ail items in the photo at left indicating the minimum measurements. To insure ample clearance within the ca you must add to these dimensions. Here have added 1" to height, 4” to each side of the width, and ‘4” to each end of the length These will be your pattern dimensions. You can add more, or less, depending on how loose, or how snug you wish the items to fit inside of the case. After you have made a case or two, you will be better able TO AbD ye to judge these dimensions. The measurements create a rectangle to the dimensions shown at left. These dimensions will be used to make the pattern for your case, SEE PATTERN B PAGE 80 For zippered cases, the comers oy should be rounded, as the zipper. — A will not work properly over a squared edge, Zipper installed on the narrow Zipper installed over the surface. wide surface. 72 MAKING THE PATTERNS — TRAVEL ACCESSORY CASE — 7] To make the case, with the zipper in the narrow surface, lay out your pattern on a large sheet of paper as shown at left, and below. Mark the fold lines and round the corners as. instructed. These measurements are taken ZIPPERED TOP from the rectangle on the opposite page. This will be the body of the case. STRIP OF MARK (HERE PATTERN, Ss Bb Line rs DRAW FoLD iS, LINES ON THE KS > PATTERN 3 . To determine the length of the gusset (zip- pered part) place a mark in the center of the pattern (see above), Now take a strip of leather. . hold at fold line. . .and carefully holding leather on the pattern outline, follow around the top. Be sure it does not slip. Mark the leather at the center mark. Re-check yourself or use other methods of ‘measuring this distance. E MARK | a al a el el ot al ST le ah 3] Lay leather out flat, measure to the mark. Double this distance will be the length of the gusset. In this case, it is ROUND THE CORNERS . USING 174" RADIUS M4 oe ae 10” s0 the total length will be 20”. The width will be 3%", same as the bottom, Now, ..we still must add to the pattern to /—____—_» allow for the seams. We will continue with the instructions on the next page for doing this. -— K GUSSET | These dimensions are derived from ay the rectangle on opposite page, and stops 283. | kK = 207 = = GUSSET Bereaniving works OF Erren sears x 2. SS Fath he DRAW LINES FOR THE SLOT TOBE Gur dur FoR rhe ZIPPER Meanwhile, lay out the center area for the zipper. Actually, the zipper does not have to be in the center. It can be offset as with the case on page 111, if you wish. 73 5) tae oursio MAKING THE PATTERNS -7TRAveL ACCESSORY CASE~- Continued 4 For the weltgd seams, we must add 3/8” to the pat: tern all around the out- side, as illustrated at right. If this addition was not made, . .the interior size of your case would be decreased, after sewing all of the seams. The length and width of the gusset must also be increased by 3/8" (see below). Since the bottom folds sharply, the 3/8” notches (at corners) must be implemented. ADD we" I CASE a PATTERN 75 Now $-3/4' COPING PATTERN TOTAL: (5 Now 16/72" clr ring PATTERN 1 + Cr me = z PATTERN Gusser fu 00 34694 f j A ee x ZIPPER SLT, E388 a TOTAL Fass LI 709 778" 7a Now 205% Q ¢ ltr Pa reny ¥ E LINES ARE THE CUTTING PATTERNS FOR YOUR CASE, 74 if CENTER MARKS ARE INDICATED BY "cl my 4 Ss, TAB STRAP, cur faa x are" HAND STRAP: Baa Pia Te ibove straps from the same leather wow To mstact } Cut th ZIPPERS BEGINS | ag the case. Glue flesh sides, fold together ON PAGE 28 and pound with hammer to adhere. Cut out all parts of case, and the tab and hand straps. Sew zipper in the gusset. Now. . .place center marks on flesh sides of the case & gusset as indicated. This is important for proper as sembly. Assembly instructions for this case begin on page 76. ~HOW TO MAKE = INSTALL THEM “Teavel Accessory Case Welted construction is the ideal way to assemble many cases. . . especially with softer leathers (suede, chap, garment, etc.). . . as with ‘the travel accessory case shown at right. The large arrow shows the ‘welted seam. The project is fitted together, inside out, and sewn. The case must then be turned right side out. This, of course, requires an ‘opening large enough to do so. Most zippered cases qualify for this type of construction. With soft leathers, the welts are usually made of the same material Other colors (of similar material) can be used if you desire a contrast of welt and case material. oreo a The key to successful welt construction is careful fitting. Be careful! Where the welts are spliced, the splice is usually put at the back or the bottom area where it will be least noticed. The patterns for this case are on the opposite page. Assembly instructions begin on page 76. MAKING THE WELT a ES _— scunr or renruer Ciiet'r Mare Rat) (MARK AND UNFOLD wiDTH To cur THe WELT FLESH SIDE ALIGH EDGES When folded, this will actually measure less than % the width you have cut, due to the thickness of the leather. Welts of about 3-4 oz. leather should be cut about 7/8” wide. This folds to about ae 1) Measure the distance around the case and cut the welt about one inch (or mo! longer to insure having ample material The total width of the welt can be from %2" to 1 depending on the case and the materials involved. 3/8" in width, which is about right for most folded welts. One good method of determining exactly how wide to cut the welt is to use scrap, and fold as shown above. On small projects, and light-weight leathers, you may want '4"" wide welts (as was used on the bottom stand of the bowling ball case. . .on page 87). (continued) SINGLE PLY weLTs }/———— Welts can also be made of single ply leather of almost any kind, from 4 02, to 12 02, in weight. These welts are usually cut wider than the folded type, and trimmed after sewing (see below). Apply glue to all of the flesh side, except for about 1" of each end. Fold the material and adhere by tapping together with a hammer, The welt is ready to install. SPLICING WELTS If you do not have enough material to make one continuous welt. . .make it in ‘two equal parts (or more) and splice as illustrated below. TRIM ABTER SEWING SINGLE PLY weer CEMENT AT EDGES Cement the welts in, just as with the folded welts. Keep edges aligned. h Sew in the usual man- ner, about 1/8” from edge. Trim after sewing. & SK/VED ENDS For more details, see page 46 of “The Art | Moisten leathers, spread of Hand Sewing Leather”. This book also away from welt, Remove SPLICING shows how you can tack theweltsin place, | excess close to case, with a GRAIN) ALWeNs instead of cementing. This method is large beveler. Tap welts OO Le SKIVE ON useful on complex curves, and where oi | with hammer. “i mk Pies tanned leathers will not accept cement $id or glue. HAND STRAP AND Tas ASSEMBLY weer B) When completed, the carrying strap and tab strap (opposite side) straddle the welt. This is a good place to hide the splice SPLICE IN WELT com INSIDE, ‘OR, FLESH SIDE UP Turn case grain side up. Cement edges of the strap and tab to the edges of the case, the center. . .as shown, Make center marks (c. m.) on the tabs as shown, These marks must correspond to the marks on the flesh side, ENLARGED VIEW cenrer EXCESS WELT AT EACH END ) Continue adhering the welt to the opposite side, Overlap the excess welt. . and mark the ends to be cut off. The overlap should be about 3/8” to 14” as shown, with the center mark in the middle. Peel welt loose a bit and cut off the excess ends. 76 This illustration is to show areas to apply cement. Before beginning assembly, apply cement to edge of case and one edge of the welt. Do not apply. ‘cement further than 3/16” from the edg CENTER OF weLT ENLARGED viEW Apply cement to edges of strap, tab, case, and welt. Begin at center of welt and adhere to case, aligning ali edges. Work carefully around the corners and down ith the ends peeled back, flatten out and skive. Apply cement to the flesh sides and areas that overlap, sPeice Make the splice (above). Re-cement along edges and adhere to the case. You now have a con- tinuous welt around the case, (continued) Vee ive) \ 0} Open th ser and bai dang he aunet tte Fold tab and handle strap over and cement edges case. Begin at ends, aligning the center marks. W. to welt. Now, establish center marks (from flesh zipper open, the slide should be at the tab end of the side) and mark only at the very edge, as shown, case. Tap ends to secure adhesion, Apply cement around all edges of the welt and to vy, the edges of the gusset, on the grain side. 40K, oR SUPPOR: case uP Now, reach inside the Zipper slot and. press joint (A), in step 12, in as tight as possi Work with fingers and bone folder. Be sure the edges are aligned. Repeat’ the point on the opposite side. Remove the paper from one corner and work the leather around it. . .keeping the edges aligned, as illustrated below. CENTER marks 7 waxed 12 PAPER Now. . .tip one side of case up, as shown, and place @ support behind it to retain this position. Align the center marks (sides) of gusset and case and adhere this point. Place waxed paper or leather scraps between the gusset and the case to prevent premature adhesion, Bone FOLDER Begin at the corner and work towards the center marks. If too much slack occurs on one side or the other, peel loose and try again, The leather will compress a bit if necessary. . .persist, and it will fit, Work down with the bone folder to form the sewing edge. Now do the other corner. Tap with hammer when properly fitted. (continued) 7 WELTS — Continued 16} i¢ property fitted, the case should look like the sketch at left. Now turn case around and do the opposite side, following steps 12 through 15, [17] With case assembled, scribe a guide line on both sides, about 3/16" from the edge (4 the width of the folded welt). Place the case on the edge of the bench to mark outside. “Wheel” stitching marks on the flesh side of the outside edge of the case. TRMANING THe WELT 18. (13) ‘Stuff the case full of paper (or other material) to help retain its shape. This makes it easier to sew. Sew all around, . .keeping stitches on guide lines from step 17. Stitches go through case, welt, and gusset, Now trim off excess welt, close to the stitches. . .see “tip”, below, Have your knife blade very sharp! weer. ee After all trimming, turn the case right side out through 3) Susinas apart TIP: TRIMMING the WELTS ANSLE OF Bib Se i Srirenbs A-exp view] [EnDview-B 120) After turning the case, place on a hard, smooth surface and tap the welted seams to flatten as much as possible. Tap all around the inside. Zip the case together it is complete, See completed case on page 75. 78 Since you cannot see the stitches on both sides at follow these instructions: (A) Viewing from the right side, hold knife at angle shown, Blade cuts close to stitches on viewing side, but cuts along outside edge of opposite side (see end view). (B) Turn project to view from left side, hold kni shown, Blade cuts close to stitches on Si flat across to meet edge of right side cut in step (A). Trimming in this manner, you cannot possibly cut the stitches. TRAVEL CASE} Alternate Assembly HAND SEWN 6 x9%" 9K" ‘The body of this case is cut from 6 oz. cowhide; the gusset from 4 oz. cowhide. This is made from the original dimen- sions on page 73. Use “case pattern A’ on page 74. ..with slight modifications. . .explained in step 1, below. SS See below * JT] The only change in the cutting pattern (pattern A, page 74) ‘= ‘is at the outside dimensions. Instead of adding 3/8”. ..add only ‘4’. the edges will not be welted (see photo). The total measurements are shown at left. Gouge all fold lines on the flesh si BURNISH eM. BuRNIsH. - = As with the soft leather case, put the center marks on the ce ———————— >| flesh sides. Sew zipper in gusset, Moisten gouges, fold edges up m1 -M. {above). Burnish ends only. . before step 4. TAB HAND \ SkiVe ENDS Sinap | HAND STRAP Lone y Tae sTRAP — SS z di suRnisH Sorrom 34x 3% epg cur FROM 4.0 BURNISH COWHIDE BUANSH Borrom ih seine De ZL EDGES OF CASE 4 eazEs [3] Cave design. Gouge sewing channels all round the Cut two straps and cement to the bottom, in center, case. Moisten gouges and fold sharply up from as shown. The ends of the gusset will coment over bottom. these, GRAW SIDE With this type of construction, you must trim off about 1/16" from each side of gusset ends, to compen- sate for reduction inside bottom folds. 6 LF) goon Zipper and cement gusset ends to bottom, as mpletely around the case, Burnish all above. Notice now, that the grain sides of leathers are out! remaining edges. The bottom of case, and This is the same procedure as step 11, page 77, without bottom ends of gusset should already have ‘the welts. Continue identical instructions on page 77, to been burnished (steps 2 and 3). assemble the case. Complete assembling the case, following steps 12 through 16, pages 77 and 78, Gouge a sewing channel inside the gusset edges, as above. * Carving design fom: “Inverted Leather Carving”. 79 TRAVEL CASE ]- Alternate Assembly a Ses BUCKSTITCHED Cut this case from 6 oz. cowhide; gusset 4 oz., same as case on page 79. Use the exact dimensions as “pattern A, page 74, Gouge the same fold lines as for the case on page 79. The 3/8” margins on the gusset edges (instead of 1"), from folds, is required for buckstitching. The 3/8” edge is also required if you wish to lace the case with the double loop stitch. . .as with the case on the opposite page. ZIPPER CAN BE BUCK- ‘Srivenep Iw PLAGE, ie Desinen. Cut the leather parts. Stamp design, Make all gouges as per patterns; page 79, Sew (or lace) the zipper in gusset. Punch lacing slits in outside cover of case, See page 22, “How to Buckstitch”, for punching slits properly around the bottom folds. Assemble the case as instructed on page 79. When the gusset is cemented in place, re-punch through slits in case, and through gusset leather, with the lacing nippers. Buckstitch the case. . . burnish all edges. See photo above. TRAVEL CASE |- Welt Construction ADD 3/8~ REVIEW STEP 4, PAGE 74. 6x91" 3K" <-- CentER t SE cenaru of sbsser is bovecs fool THIS MEASUREMENT. SIDE | (See Stes 2 AND On PAGE 73) a’ This case is made of 4 oz. chap leather with eg § contrasting color of welt and initials. This pattern is made 33 PATTERN from measurements on page 72. Since the zipper is instal- zo B led in the wide surface, pattern dimensions dif F those on page 73. Add 3/8” outside dimensions, for welt g 25a construction, exactly as described in step 4, ‘page 74. 3 BTA Follow identical steps, 3 through 20, pages 75 to 78, to 3 76 Now 334 this case, 3 CUTTING PATTERN ‘ADD 3/e— aay Neher * ie SSS = | TOTAL | cme) ee (ausser] cote PATTERN wee SPREE ayk | <1 MON s1 WhO 449 MON St {4 Nwatied ‘ON/LLAD PATTERN B Fe be 80 *Stamped design: Creftool Basketweave Stamp No, X510, Border: No. D436 TRAVEL CASE}- Alternate Assembly eee LACED This case is made to the exact cutting dimensions of pattern B, opposite page. Cut the case from 6 oz. cowhide, gusset from 4 02. cowhide. Make the hand tab and hand strap the shown on page 79. This case was laced with 1/8” leather lacing, using the double loop stitch, ee ' ¢z Cut out the parts, make all gouges. Carve design. Install zipper. Be sure to put center marks (c. m.) on the flesh side, Punch lacing slits in outside cover. Follow assembly steps 2 through 6, page 79 (burnishing ends is not required). Re-punch through slits in case and gusset. Lace the project. . detail of lacing the tab and strap is shown below. CASE Par eRn WEWS BELOW FROM OUTSIDE BOTTOM OF CASE DOUBLE LooF PULL STITCH, srircH 70 BETWEEN LEATHERS, Tietr ara LEP; 2 to last ingle lace to Bring lace from back Last lace side, under last stitch, Punch slits through opposite eda strap, (betweenslits comes between strap__Continue lacing the double loop. in case bottom). leathers, + Carving design from: Crattid No, 6577 LACING THE Cu’ UT SECTION OF ATTACHE CASE - ON PAGE 50 SKIVE THE END ED cur out the picture panel, Punch F tac lacing slits. Be sure corners come out yy as shown. Cut out the edges of each y ‘opposing corner (arrows). S (A) Begin lacing in next to last slit as shown. |B) Go under lace, pull up tight! THROUGH Bicnr EDGE-ONE (C) Go through next slit, and under the bight (D).“ (G) Pull end of lace (F) up, go through same slit with (G). Continue lacing down “edge one” until you have —_—ull tight, locking end. (H) Go through bight, into last slit; reached the position (E). (F) Begin another lace on _pull tight. (1) Go through bight, glue end of lace inside “edge two”, following steps A, 8, C, and D. Continue lacing with (J). As you come to each corner (E), wrinkles Peel line arrow) does not "apart. This slitted edge of side pattern side pattern, Put aide vorig have t© conform to theexact is ‘the side pat. to the bottom pattern, as (from bottom pettarn) ee heel outline, tern. above. Align the edges. the 82 Hondte No, 4 BOOT CASE SAREE PAGE &i ‘This case is made for a pair of men’s western riding boots. . featuring welt construction. The tops were 1114" with a2” riding heel, making the total height 13%”. With the instructions given here, you can make a case for English riding boots, shoes, roller or ice skates, or any type of footwear, Use the same principals for making cases for other items as well The case and welts were 4/5 oz. pliable chap leather. 4/5 oz. I or similar leathers will work very well, STIFF PAPER 1 =. Set boots on a sheet of paper and draw around them with a pencil. Hold the pencil perpendicular. BOTTOM PATTERN — CENTER LINE DRAW A STRAIGHT LINE AT TOES AND HEELS — FOLDED UNFOLDED Draw a center line between boot les; determined by total width, [3] Fold the paper on the center line; cut out Now lay boot on side Draw a’ line %" outside line from the pattern through both papers. Unfold- and draw around out. step 1, on one side only, as above. ed you now have the bottom pattern. Draw line. marks at widest part (above). OUTLINE FROM STEP 4 ARI PATER THE TOP § INSTEP. PLACE A TOE MARK ON BoTTom PATTERN, RIGHT AT EDGE OF THE SIDE PATTERN STRAIGHT LINE ‘AT Boron Sipe “maRK (FROM Borram) Set one boot on bot: [8] Place a heel mark on The J" in. . .and tom pattern and staple the bottom pattern at edge of LT aean, crow « tre 1° (6) cur oe te outside line from step 4 pattern and. cut Draw | smooth lines “past slits. at_ bottom, boot ou HEEL MARK pattern. (continued) SET A HEAVY ITEM NEXT TO THE BOOT To HOLD IT IN MARK TOP To CORRESPOND WITH MARK ON. BOOT CASE - Continued Tis epee ra'oe Sire Rens worn Center tier CI BELOW center Ne THe MARK AT THE ToP OF THe SIDE PATTERN 1 LONG ENOUGH 70 REACH——>! KO pattern for the front, cut a sheet of Paper long enough to reach from toe to the mark at top of side pattern. For width, measure from center line to the edge of the side pattern; add a full inch (A). Cut a notch in the paper 2” deep, leaving distances (B) equal (see sketch above). CENTER oo ra Cine Fold (B) over Now fold paper over toe, up against, and staple to the bot- shape of side pattern at instep, ‘tom pattern at toe. In- and up over the top. Be sure there side aligns with center _is no slack (arrows). Have an assis: line; other edge fits tant place @ mark at the top, on next to the edge of the underside of the front paper. the side pattern, a To make KEEP EDGE Read step 12 first. Lay paper out and pencil Uitnria 3) marks will roughly resemble the sketch, Draw CENTER 4 smooth-flowing line (A) equalizing all of LINE OF the marks. Line (B) will be the cutting line; %'" outside of line (A). CUT OFF Top maRK Repeat operation to make a pattern for the back half, Cut a tab at bottom With paper held snug against the edge of the side pattern, draw 4 line inside, starting at the top. Hold pencil flat to side pattern, moderately pressing against it and side of boot, Allow side pattern to bend inward, without forcing, all the way to the toe. Draw over this several times. Place mark to match instep mark. It would help to have an assistant do either the holding or the drawing. ‘to equal the distance from center line and the heel mark (step 8). Staple in place as shown at far right, Repeat step 12, MARK FROM STEP 8 Repeat step 13 to ar- rive at the cutting pat tern; line (B), SLE, BOOT CASE - Continued srArceD 08 ‘Step te CENTER LINE CB) Live (B) cEnTeR Tae « Sree ; CRE" SR ® Sree 8 x ¥ Tor mann Se re ce ~) wash y Tae Mani ADJUST LINES (IF REQUIRED) SO THE CUTTING cur ow 705 Line EE Te Ahi S Boe Unstaple the patterns, Cut off ends of patterns at top marks (B). Tape patterns together here, with center li aligned. Observe all notations above. Now, cut on the dotted line. You now have % of the top (front and back) pattern. EXTEND PATTERN we 2/PPeg HERE, DO NoT HAVE NOTCHES 7 EXTEND PATTERN HERE. URE TO INCLUDE ALL REGISTRATION Mans at | 20 Nor HAVE NOTCHES REGISTRATION MARKS AT ToP AND INSTEP oaRK ie ¥ 2 WSTEP. INSTEP. MARK ~ MARK FROM S77 MEASURE Len ZIPPER sloT “CENTER LINE cur HERE ABOUT 114 na Flop the pattern (on center line) and complete the {iz on other side of the pattern (above). A zipper opening, of sufficient length, is required for inserting the boots; see To make a full pattern, draw a center line on alarge suggestion on the side pattern at left. Measure this sheet of paper. Draw around the % pattern. . .from distance and lay out the zipper slot on pattern, Cut out step 16, the pattern, around the outlines. PUT REGISTRATION MARKS ON FLESH SIDES HEAVY ZIPPER weers THREE REQUIRED Cur 7" WIDE x 39" (13) Cut out all parts. Make welts from the same material as the case. Be sure to add registration marks. Sew zipper in. 20] Sew dees to top of side pieces. See page 7, Vol. |, “The Art ‘of Making Leather Cases” for instal- ling dees. TRIM EXCESS Hand sewing zippers in soft leathers sometimes Cement welts to the sides of the top piece, as puckers, shortening it a bit. Tack out on bench DETAIL OF above, Cut off any excess flush with the end, (same length as pattern) before comenting on weir the welts. (continued) 84 BOOT CASE - Continued FuesH nsTer DS SIDE MARKS STITCHES FROM ‘STEP 20 — ROLL UNIT Over GRAIN SIDE, Tor Piece me Sate ‘Sieg Transfer all registration marks to the edges of the welts. Begin adhering ([23) at top marks. Work in direction of broken arrows. Parts must join at Turn toe up and over and registration marks, and. come out aven at arrow heads. f not, peel adhere with broken arrows, . .to the eel. loose and re-adjust. Adjustments work best at curves. Me SS) Fisher £066 OF Wears. Now, trim ends of welts next to stitches (above). This will make easier sewing. . in step 29. pute stitenes TIGHT Over ‘Seams Now. . .repeat operation The case should resemble the sketch in from edge, on above. both sides. Keep stitches on these lines! Borrom FLESH sie Remove the cement jar through the zipper ‘opening. Sew in the bottom. Trim off the excess welts, Turn case right side out. Tap the welts (review page 78) Now cement the bottom piece inside, adhering to the welt. Again. . use the registration ¢ marks. Should the bottom be shown. Use an object inside to too large to fit without wrin- hold the case open (cement ig, it can be trimmed down jar used here). Large arrows size, indicate trimming from step 26. Open the zipper! Handle No. 4 with snaps at each end. Turn springs in to prevent snagging on clothing, etc. Handle is 10”. . fold to fold. 2/8 oz. FULLER 4 wie INSERT B007S FROM THE BACK CUTTING PATTERNS for BOOT CASE on Page 82 {If using boots with higher or lower tops, the side and gusset patterns EACH SQUARE ‘must be altered accordingly. Ladies’ boots require all patterns reduced, equals 1° 1 14 I + tge{ jt 4 HT a } | — | al | SI, Lg. eee Ld ih = \ gay fT dat [st 7 eal [/ elt Lz 3 TaN INSTEP MARKS | (svep 72) y | } {Peter yt TT : NOTE: If using these patterns, check the regis- tration marks ofar cutting out tie rare Soon tdjusioones ray: be Tiered dee So aes alg leather thicknesses | a : : As 7 4 13h a i: StS § sive | yas oe BR berets al its | ~ t | § S 4 2. & g i @ | i |} To complete the gusset povtern, jin rttonte (A) to (A) and (B) @} | to (B) as shown - — - above. | I BOWLING BALL CASE This case features a rounded bottom, conform- ing to the ball, that fits within a circular bot tom stand for support. It is made of 8/9 oz. cowhide to maintain its form. Lighter weight leather can be used if desired. The construction features all welting, though it can be laced or sewn with outside seams, as shown on page 92. The welts were made of 2 02, natural cowhide, Other light materials can be used. Four short welts are required at the bottom, The bowling ball sits snugly in the bottom of the bag. Shoes and/or sweater fit easily on top of the ball. If using the welted construction, it is suggested the design not be dyed until the case has been turned right side out and dried, as 2 the case must be thoroughly soaked, Some dyes are inclined to “bleed” (run). below * SEE SPECIAL NOTE~ PAGE 91 BEFORE ASSEMBLY! SKIVED INSTALL TWO CENTER OF GUSSET EDGES HEALY DUTY sew a LINING LEATHER. UNDER ZIPPER. SEE me (awe Peek SEE PATTERN 7 ene ) } dX Cs cara Cut out the parts (patterns on page 91). Make all gouges. Gouges should be 1/3 to % the depth of the leather. In thickness off FoR couces addition, area outside of —— around the fF gouges should be skived off holes. See page for welted construction, as 11, Vol. | of DETAIL othe Art of VIEWS Making Leathe ABOVE — Cases" shown in sketches at right. oe MAKING THE morsren SHORT WELT, SkIvED END a) SKIVE TOA FEATHER EDGE [2] Cut four welts 5%” long from 2 oz. leather. The folded width should be about paul 5/16". See page 75 for making (3) MOPELER welts. Glue welt to within 5/8” [4] of the skived end. Fold and Moisten skived end and L WOTE: “weet” marks SHOULD BE ON THE OUTSIDE, FoR EASIER SEWING./ (3) Glue welt to opposite side (below), All edges should be flush at the top. use Bau asain, 70 ‘Sew one welt in place, then the other. Trimends; '/= excess welts. “ween” Sipe oursibe Evers, See Step 5. END STITCHING HERE... DO NOT * INSTALL SEW OVER THE ENDS / Ee bees Bg wees Berone af S33 $2? as 1 10] see special note on page 91, before assembly. Prepare a welt and glue to side, as above OPEN THE ZIPPER “wheel”. Wheel marks are on side pieces. Glue the gusset to the welted side piece. Sew together. FLESH SIDES Soak the case underwater until all air bubbles stop rising, Then turn the case right side out, and pound all welts from the inside Now make another welt and glue to the other See page 94 for turning side piece, exactly as in step 10. Open the | 13) the case and pounding Zipper! Glue the gusset in place, same as step The casenowresemblesthesketch the welts. (continued) 11. Sew case together. above. Trim off excess welts. . . review page 78. 88 FILLING —> Ya" STRIP OF 8/3 0%, cownpe Me BOWLING BALL CASE~- Continued 15 Now. . .wrap the bowling ball (see page 95 for special instructions). Place it in the very bottom of the case. Form the wet leather around it. It should be a snug fit. With towels, underwear, or any soft ‘material, fill the top of the case over the ball. You need enough material in the top so that when the case is zipped closed, it should be a snug fit. Allow the case to dry before removing the fillers and the ball, MAKING THE BOTTOM STAND @ A aurrsomr Cut a 7" diameter circle from %" ply- a 45 degree angle; sandpa leather around th Make a short welt from 1% oz. leather; %” wide (folded). Glue between ends of side piece; sew. Trim excess welt very close to stitches. Trim end ‘as shown, on the edge that is not skived! instructed. Gra SIDES © ce ‘top over. Glue side piece to tap the welts on the insi we ® cowhide with an ins wide and about 23" wood. Cut our an inner circle to 5" diameter. | Tapes ote ek Rasp the inner edge, at top, down about %” at Skive the inner sive’ ecoe Cut a circle from 4 toa feather. ends are flush (arrows). weer RAIN Va Make a welt for the (F) 1% 07. leather, Turn over, moisten an when folded, scribe a sewing line 1/8” from place as shown edge. “Wheel” with No, above. Splice as previously overstitch wheel. ® ‘ ant SZ Soak the assembly; invertand —({) Apply gl the top leather and top of wood welts fit in the space above the stand. (continued) leather strip. GRAIN sipes © ewes ois faces side from 4 02. cowhide 1%” the top leather and trim so the id 7 liberally inside Borrom STAND -covrMue? BOWLING BALL CASE- Continued... FROM PAGE 89 NorcHEs STAND en gue se, athe two B) Tar or, gue bot top to the wood. Press skived edge tom. Cut notches to down (arrows) as above, lay flat, if necessary. 7 Remove fillers and ball, turn case upside FENCHE LINE PROM, down, Center the bottom stand on the bottom of the case, Draw inside the ring, to the case with a pencil. use Smate 1? . Moisten the inside of the bottom of Make 16 cuts about %" apart, the case, and turn the cut tabs out. indicated by broken lines above, down Wards aillustrated above. 19) Now place the bottom stand on the case, position over the tabs. Pull tabs in pliers, Put a tack in (A). Then turn case, put a tack in (B). Then (C) and (D). Place a wood or other support under the rim of the stand, Set the case on the bench and check the side and end views. If crooked (as above) reset the tacks. When the case sets level, tack all tabs down at one edge. Then put a small screw in the oppo- site edge of the tab for security. If any excess tab sticks out beyond the bottom; trim off flush. NOTE: The welt on the edge of the stand should be in the center of the back side of 21] Place ball in case. If, byany chance, protrudes gouged RECESS "SCRAP OF SKIRTING LEATHER-11/12. 02. 22] To complete the case, cut a 7” circle from 8/9 oz. cowhide. Gouge a recess for the bulge of the welt at the bottom of the stand, Glue in place, Cut four plugs with a %" drive punch and glue to the bottom, at the edges, 90 as shown above, V4 th OF cenren|— wine om tewern | alee ' L ' i \ I 1 i 1 i devren| | cine oe | 1 wim | 1 t T { { make one |} 8/9 oz. L 1 ' 1 1 r q My let u see, § & N GUSSET PATTERN EQUALS 1” SPECIAL sides should be temporarily ce- mented to, ting, before actual assembly. . . and’ marked with registration BOWLING BALL CASE ~ Continued EACH SQUARE SIDE PATTERN 2 OF NOTE: Gusset and gether, to insure fit | marks as suggested below. Ce- mane TAB a ment both sides to the gusset, ea, 4 POSITION ! and mark, CHOICE + a — | I CENTER nay — ceieeta|| NOTICE. . .in the actual size sketch at right, how the gouges taper towards the hole, %”’ from cuts, This proper welted seam here; steps 3 through 9. Se 2S REGISTRATION MARKS is is required to make a ACTUALSIZE OF HOLE AND CUTS (FROM PATTERN) ALTERNATE ASSEMBLY | = BELOW — For lacing, or regular_hand sewing welts) gested blies. . 1 ! I 1 I i i 1 1 i a 1 ' l ' 1 i r Ww | cenrer Live MERE ALTERNATE GusseT_ | END Gouse | Sl aaealeerea ALL GOUGES \ Syie" FRom \ | 2pses | assembly (without ‘cut the patterns as sug- tse ster [ iH, a below. Alternate assem- .on page 92. gouges ‘SEE AssemaLy INSTRUCTIONS On PAGE 32. j \ ORIGINAL i parrern LINE Tain 3/16" Tore sipes HERE ME THESE WiLL BE BUTT-JOINTS ALTERNATE [SIDE o"| cur our From al EDGE OF Hole. & MaKe cur To True OFF 3/16" FROM ORIGINAL PATTERN. sea Wie PUNCH Yo" HOLE FOR ALTERNATE ASSEMBLY THESE wine BE Burr JOINTS: 1 _ (eeevew] i BOWLING BALL CASE-~ Alternate Assemblies gf SUTPIONT ENDS HERE . f a Gusser- Moisten gouges and fold out, as above, prior to assembly. This makes gluing arts easier, ( Cut out parts from patterns on page 91, (A), (8), (C), will be buttjointed, no t gouging or skiving required. Gouge I lines (D). 5/16" from edge for hand sewing, 3/8” from edge for lacing, Skiving at gouges isnot required, ‘as for the welted seams. Install double zipper in gusset. Carve design. Sew dees and shields in piace. Gouge sewing channels in gusset and sides (for sewing). Punch lacing slits in sides (for lacing), Follow the instructions below. ‘SEE PAGE 31...°THE ART OF MOISTEN AROUND HAND SEWING LEATHER * HOLES, SO THE STITCHING P Puusir Lacine covers Hone ae THE TOP curver NEEDLES eRcNs ‘Stirs Sew butt joints (A) and (B) together. Before sewing, ; it would be helpful to tack the leather to a board t (with proper curve) as illustrated on page 35, “The Art of Hand Sewing Leather”. To lace the with the knitting bag, pages 98, 99, Be sure equal lacing slits are opposite each other at all butt-joints + (A), (B), and (C). "Gram sigs our AFTER ASSEMBLY, THOROUGHLY morsTEN CASE ON THE INSIDE. REPEAT STEP 16 WERE SEW... OR... LACE COVERS ON THE BOTTOM STAND. BD ners B88 Sie oe aearHen HP 9 aan ge Woop Stand AS SHOWN ABov? E .nctin 88 Glue the gusset to the sides, at seams (D), Sew buttjoints (C), then complete sewing (D). Burnish edges. 92 Glue gusset to sides. Lace butt joints (C). Re-punch slits through sides; through gusset. Complete lacing (D) with the double loop stitch. ROUND CASES We have designed these unique cases for those desiring something unusual. The cases shown are for a bowling ball and a shot putt. With our “master pattern”, however, you can make a case to fit any round object! With a little ingenuity, they can be converted into handbags. . .by making interior units that fit within the case (after completion) and then are secured by sewing along the zippered edges. These cases feature the welted construction. They could be sewn or laced, with the seams on the outside, {as shown on the opposite page; seam (D). Pattern is on age 96. Be sure you understand each step of pattern making before cutting the leather. The shot putt case was made of 6/7 oz. cowhide with %4” welted seams. Our instructions are for the bowling ball case, It was made of 8/9 oz. leather with 3/8” welted seams. went REET L srirening a “GRoOvER GRAIN SIDE DETERMINE POSITIONS OF DEES 0) this case 3/8” in from the edge): step (A) of gouge: 3/16" from edge; ‘only. Sew zipper in one piec straps on the oth side of both pieces, as indicated above, ESTABLISH ALL"C.M." MARKS ON EDGE OF THe LEATHER rues = ‘SIDE GRAIN SIDES ‘SPLICE step (B) at left. Moisten and scribe P (C), then “wheel” as in step (D), on one piece in the middle, Sew dees for carrying Be sure to put all center marks (c. m.) on flesh SEW LINING STRIP WITH ZIPPER... HEAVY ZIPP: FULL LENGTH FLESH SIDE Cut out two identical parts. Gouge on line (B), of your pattern, (in French-edge outside firm guide line a full eR ZIPPER Moisten all edges fairly well and turn them up, toward flesh side as much as possible. Allow to dry. Make @ welt of 2 oz. leather, 3/8” wide when folded. Glu place all around the edge of one piece. Apply glu all edges now, in preparation for assembly. * Corvng design from: “Inverted Lesther Cs ( Bl secige Open the zipper. Begin adhering the ends of one part to the center (waist) of the other. Be sure you have the center marks of both parts aligned. Tap this area to insure adhesion. (continued) arving’. Crataid Alphabet No, 2710, 93 ADHERE ver? spince 4) Bring the ends of the zipper part around, and adhere to the waist of the opposite part. Align center marks! The splice in the welt should be at one of the zipper ends, (5) Case is ready to sew. Fill case with towels to make sewing easier. Hold between your legs, to sew. ROUND CASES~ Continued v PINCH WITH PLIERS TO. SECURE ADHESION 6 The remaining edges will prac- x tically fall in place. If any edges are not reasonably flush, work loose and re-adjust. Redo the scribe lines if necessary, to make sewing easier. After sowing, trim the welts. . .review page 78. Completely submerge the case in water until ‘thoroughly soaked (usually when the air bubbles stop water and drain off the excess. Now, turn the case right si out as above. NOTE: The dees and shields, for the handles, were not sewn to the case here, being an experimental model, They were added after the case was completed and turned, as it ‘opens wide enough for easy sewing access, After turning the case, place on a hard, smooth surface and pound the welts down as at left. Do not “pound’’ so hard as. to break the stitches! The welts will lay very flat inside t case, Welting makes a very strong, attractive seam. (continued) ROUND CASES— Continued SPECIAL NOTE The “master pattern” for the round case (page 96) is the exact size for the ball! This makes a tight fit. However, with the added leather for the seams ind welts, it enlarges it enough so the fit is “snug”. Wet leather, when drying, will shrink! To compensate for this, the ball must be wrapped enough to make a tight fit in the case, while iti Follow the instructions. begi right. 10} age. Put into until the case zips (right). tions on the ball. tents. Leather will shrink down tight and ins a perfect, snug fit for the ball, Dye the carving design when dry. Add the handles to complete ‘the case, NOVELTY LEATHER BALLS These balls were formed over a billiard ball; 6%" circumference. The ex- act pattern (step 3, page 96) was used to make them. Cut from 4 o2, cowhide, PROCEDURE: Cut out the parts. Gouge pattern line B. Carve design. Moisten flesh and grain sides fairly well. Follow steps 2 through 6 (without welts, and grain sides out). Glue seams over the billiard ball. Pinch seams down close to ball with pliers (photo above). Allow to. dry. Trim seams down to about 3/32”. Edge and burnish. For the Christmas ball, cut seam open (left) to remove the ball. Attach a wire loop at top. Glue the seam back together with white cement. CHRISTMAS BALL: ABOUT 2” DAMETER BiLeraRD Bae tlep Cut several thicknesses of newspapers into str ball; tape in place. Repeat wrapping in all di hess and at the same time keepi saran wrap or plastic 0 By adding stand, the case will. not roll around when set down stand, follow th This case, unlike the one ‘on page 87, will only carry should be quite a conver- sation piece! GLUE LEATHER "LEGS" ON NAPKIN HOLDER ~ SEE PHOTO ind wrap around the ions to build up thick- the ball as round as possible, Put all, as wrap, to waterproof the pack- and zip up. If there is any slack, add more wrapping Up snug, keeping it in the rounded form, the bottom For making the struc ages 89 and 90, If nothing else, it eiue on LEATHER LEGS. For napkin holder, remove ball by slitting leather (A), carefully. Remove ball, then use No. 10 punch at the bottom. Now make tapering cuts, (B). Ne. 10 PuncH CHRISTMAS BALL: Mix metallic powders (see page 70, “Figure Carving Finesse") with clear lacquer. Paint balls to suit. Zoe's silver and gold were also used. “Set” colors with an artist's fixative spray. 95 MAKING THE PATTERN FOR THE ROUND CASE The MASTER PATTERN, directly below, has been designed to make a round case for any size ball. It is Yth of the total pattern. Lines (A), (B), and distances between (C) and (D) have all been predetermined. You do not have to worry about how these were established. . .all you have to do is copy them. . .when making the pattern for the ircumference of your own ball. Line (E) is the only variable. It parallels line (B). . .but can vary in distance from it. This is explained in step 2 below. Follow the instructions very carefully for making your pattern. Understand each step before continuing to the next. fe——You usr wave 16 zauar Squares wim THIS MEASUREMENT —————————> + | [see srep 2 ron | ate eae = az ears ial S estes OF THE PATTERN HERE datTERs | ‘MUST EQUAL Vath THE 1 a) ne Be | CIRCA EERENCE OF THE BALL JR IF 18 NOT. : Duus? ne eert TT | KE lenis ie ve oF ae Acrunl Cincumranance oF THs) aALL= DISTANCES © ano® MUST BE EQUAL 16 quar squares —______»| jers to mark in line (E). The distance (B) depends upon the size of the ball, thickness of leather, and the type of seam construc: cumference dimension, and divide this area into 16 equal tion, For circumference of about 12” to 18”, using squares. Now, from the “master pattern”, draw in lines 6/7 oz. leather and welted seams, line (E) should be (A) and (B). You must place these lines ( the no less than %” out from line (B). For larger cases, squares) in direct relation to those of the “master pattern”. heavier leather, and welted seams, the distance should Be as accurate as possible. be about 3/8”. bee acruae CIRCUMFERENCE oF THE BALL—>4 Z ‘Measure the circumference of the ball. Draw center line (F) on a sheet of paper. Measure out % HEAVY PAPER CENTER OF Le E CENTER OF LINE B I T é T T =e CENTER MARK: Wis 1$ PLACED BETWEEN. CENTERS OF LES E AnD B Place a center mark on pattern as shown. This, is an equal distance between the centers of lines (E) and (B). If you ever need to find the center [4] of a curved from one point to another, run ‘spacing wh¢ pricks, and di To complete the pattern, draw lines (F) and (A) on ‘down the line. Count the wheel _ sheet of paper, With a light-table (or window) transfer ide by two. Above, is the exact size lines (B) and (E). Flop the pattern to complete, Place pattern for the balls on page 98, using 4 oz, cowhide center marks (c. m.) in all positions shown above, Cut out the pattern on line (E). and 1/8" margin (E). 96 4" wide "4" bien This case is designed for knitting or crocheting. A large grommet is installed in the lid so the ‘yarn pulls through, as needed. Line the case with 2-2% oz, garment, or other suitable leather. This bag features all lace construction, except for the zipper, which is sewn. This was laced with 5/32" galaxy (gold) lace, Before cutting out any of the parts, read all of the pages. C fully follow the instructions. Observe the many marginal notes to insure successful assembly of this case. F [STRAP END fi CUTTER IF AVAILABLE, USE The END CUTTER FOR SMOOTH, UNIFORM TAB ENDS eae ieee oversize. See NOTE ow PATTERN BeLow )- cur OUT TABS ~~ NN) Loner surs - Draw m raBs..our 8 WITH THONGING NS FROM HOLE EDGES y cHsEL RSE ~ pune Wont Hote. § ae : Seiten, sbsrebrsibe UT STIPPEMERE OX, S GE OF THE 2 . On Hie Gouce Tetsmnit ER TaN Ne 7 ‘ - GOUGE BROKEN LINE FRONT eoue LINES: \ Ne | LAY OUT PATTERN : x On FLESH SIDE | Size OF STIFFENER LID PATTERN ACTUAL SIZE— ‘ 7 aaa Casour 9/8") See assemacy STEps On pases 99, AND 10 ——— oe Nee serine our! wanbie / cur 94°x207 4 NOTE? cut leather about 1/8” oversize. This is so end cutter will make @ clean cut at 97 KNITTING BAG~- Continued use Heavy Dare Sieber 0 END SIDE SLITS 3/6" FROM TOP AND BOTTOM Th EG jr ere sar WV eunoe: H q LINE L Nore: PURO [<—You mus HAVE EQUAL No. OF SLITS ON BOTH SIDES/——>! 1 3 PUNCH SIDE SLITS ‘AS SHOWN. THE 5/32” LACE WILL GO IN THE i) Ya" THONGING SLITS. Cut the bag to dimensions at left. Carve) stamp design. Cut out zipper slot, cement | a zipper in place. Sew on the dee assem blies. CUTTING PATTERN | SHORT LACE... To make lacing easier, tie bag to- gether with tem- porary laces (left). Be sure the laces 2 in matching i LONG, FINISHED ‘SIDE IN? ibe @ Punch lacing slits at sides and pattern, sAa Use FID Aws TO OPEN THE SL FROM WSIDE STITCH THE CASE LoeKs END Bring lace (B) around to outside of Cut a piece of lace 1414” long; cut one 11 ft. long, Begin at top, pulling each end of the 11 ft, lace through opposite slits. Center the lace. Lock the end of the short piece under first stitch. Cross lace (B) over, into. next slit. Pull tight! Now. . .fold short lace down. This will cover the back seam, Cross lace (A) over, slit. (continued) (A) and through top slit. Bring (A) around to outside of (B) and through the opposite top slit. Pull both laces up tight! Laces always cross to oppo- site sides. See inside view (far left). Pull lace (A) through slit shown; pull tight! Cross (B) into 3rd slit; pull tight! Bring lace (B) back through 2nd slit; pull tight! To finish off, run (B) through last slits, coming out inside bag. Cut off end of short lace. Cross (A) over; pull ht! Both laces are again inside the case. Run ends of (A) and (B) under stitches inside bag. Cut off ends. SHORT Lace 1s LockED SECURELY... COVERING THE SEAM Continue lacing to midway of case, Then turn bag over and continue lacing to the bottom. Pound stitches with hammer for @ smooth appearance. CAUTION: When turning the case over to lace up the bottom, be sure laces cross in the same manner as at the start! MAKING THE LID | F.esy sive cur our, FROM Cut lid oversize (see pattern). Lay ‘out pattern on flesh side. Punch holes, and cut out as shown. Before cutting out the lid leather, place case on pattern; check for fit. Thicknesses of leathers vary, and the gouge line may have to be altered @ bit. Gouge should be right ‘outside the edge of the case. ers, punch a Ys" jue to the lid, ena © Since the grommet will not go through hole in the stif- ide the gouge. MARK DISTANCE Leather is cut oversize, so the end cutter will not be at the very edge. Measure and cut tabs as shown. Install the grommet. Punch the lacing slits (see pattern). Moisten gouge and tabs, fold up as shown. Allow to dry. (continued) 99 CENTER OF BACK © race td on 109 of the bn, ces for fit. The center line of the lid (see pattern) should fit at the center of the back. Apply ‘glue inside tabs and place back on bag, while still tacky. Reach one hand in bottom of bag to aid in adhering the tabs. a LACING INSIDE BACK SEAM @ © oo» through the tabs and lid with a running stitch (above). Tap laces flat. CUTTING FOLD UNE 3 LINING AND STIFFENER Fold the paper in half. Place on a light table (or window) and equal- ize the lines, from both sides of the paper, with the pencil, to have a balanced (6) NETRING TH6 UP] KNITTING BAG- Continued Place the bottom of the case on a sheet of paper and draw all Ni w ) around with a pencil. side pencil line, equal to the thick- 1 AWE THONGING. cHrsEL © +e punch sts through the tabs and the bag, open the zipper Use a buckstitching awl (above) or clamp a wood block to your bench, and use a single prong lacing chisel as suggested in the illustration. THICKNESS or Bae LEATHER PENCIL marr Now draw a line (broken above) in- ress of the bag leather. pattern. Re-check with the bottom of the bag. (4) Scribe a parallel line 7s” outside arene Battarn, Re-check withthe bottom of Oe ig ine. (Srcut tha bottom from Cuts eas |. Boz. cowhide, Gouge on broken line, Form the bottom as instructed on page 27. PLACE A (MARK AT Glue bottom to the lining (stiffener). Trim excess hand in the bag to : c (stiffener) an'ine edge of placement. remove, end place a mark (above). 20d, lace with a, mena the bottom, Apply cement to edges and put back in bag, stitch, Burnish the edge. The 100 cowhide. . .oversize, as suggested in the above sketch. a bag; check fit. R e fe) When cement adheres, fit bottom sin proper punch slits through bottom aligning mark and edges. bag is completed. we" x98 TH nesses, we cannot give you The procedures for making this of case ar zipper lengths, gusset widths, et from one set of basic instruct all notations. Since books are all sizes and thick- specific pattern as it would fit only one book! the same for any book size. We will show you how to lay out the patterns, and how to arrive at the Carefully follow the steps and observe type all ns, Gg 1] Three measurements for the book are all that are re- quired. These must be transferred to paper, to make the pattern, Begin at right. CUTTING PATTERN 6/7 02, CowHiDE ama was USED FOR g rue case Snowy | NS ABOVE i Pd 1 $s 1 3g 1 oe 1 { wne-@)—™ eae sneren wares CORNER: 1” RADIUS 3] or zipper installation, the corners should be rounded, Zippers will also function better if the back is cut down, as shown with line (F). You now have a cutting pattern for the book case. The thickness of your leather cover (oz. weight) is optional, depending on the size of your book, type of decoration, etc., you wish to use. (continued tc Bc oh sha: tain 2708 © ryeunes B as ot ' t i} gt 88 — || El! ee, 1} 8x | He ae fi 4 Beh (6) 6 a «= | © a t En On r | 1 it ' oO ' ' { D (hat) L gad ——-—— ) i ) + Le ewer 3 ; Pave —t—o| i 2] Study the sketch above. The shaded areas indicate the book dimensions. First lay out the thick- ness and height of the back of the book (A). Next, draw in dotted lines (B) 1/8” from the edges of (A). This gives clearance for the leather cover, and will be the fold lines. Now draw lines (C) 1/8" from lines (B). This is the edge of the book width, again needing clearance at the fold (dotted line). Complete the book dimensions with lines (D).. Now, draw lines (E) %" out from {D) completely around your layout, This will be the cutting dimensions of the book cover. The %” addition is required forthe zipperinstallation. 101 COVERS OF CASE BOOK CASE - Continued | eoce views BELOW 1%" THK “oe THICKNESS 200K oF LEATHER Zippers are usually sewn to a NS kT powr oF ' ws YS = mn = set leather, which in turn is sewn ep aCe rare eusser’ to the case covers. To determine EE ee i A the width of the gusset leathers, we first have toknow [5] 1" >}, LLL the distan cs : e distance between the gouged fold lines of the back 5 sech above shows cae ie. wasn of the case, and how much space is required for the zipper slot (see page 29). For our instruction, we'll say ‘the book is 1%" thick. Then the fold lines (B, in step 2) will be 14" apart. folded on 1%" 9 case (above). Edges turn up Note that inside dimer 'K" at each side, for sewing sions are shortened to to the case (3/8"for lacing). about 13/8”. SEWING ausser, SEWS CHANNEL [2 ZIPPER wieHT — SIPPER From steps 4 through 7, we have arrived at the sketch at left. (A) is the section of the gus- set that must be removed to accomodate the zipper. For the light zipper, this is about 3/8” (see page 29). The remaining distance (B) is FLATTENED OUT ABIT Less ' <——“than 17%” toes the width to cut the gusset pieces. Here, they i hie F measure just bit over 5/8”, Therefore, you With information from | ““~covses — will cut two gusset strips to this width. We will step 6, flatten gusset leather <———_707AL wir! next determine the length required. and we arrive at the total gus- | a set width (above| — sewing ALIGN THE CHANNELS. epees BuRNISH Epees r { | tp Font LEATHER couse THe FOLDS: tb an, AROUND THE Conners al [10] Cut both gusset strips to length (stop 9) and prepare for eraen 2 | START” 10} casembly, as above, teATHER|~ NOTE: WERE 70 Ai THis opeR- ATION, CLIP GUS- SET LeaTHER To COVER AS You &0, cur oF excess 44 aa Ti] Make a zipper 1%” shorter than the gusset strips. Cement the strips to the zipper, and sew. Review page 29, for installing zippers. FOLD ENDS Fiar Cut two gusset strips (usually 4 oz. leather) abit longer than you are sure you will need. Begin, as shown above, and lay the leather ail around the case, Do not allow it to sli! [12] Fit,completely around, cut off excess. This with zipper sewn to gussets, moisten gouged edges and fold up. te Rent cf fhe gusset leather Continue folding at the ends, fold flat. Assembly is ready to install, (continued) FOLD SIDES UP 102 Cut out the cover, make BOOK CASE - Continued 1ake Add lining to case, if desired. Skive one fold gouges, and stamp design. edge to a feather. Cement to case; ski Gor. BACKING LEATHER GRAIN SIDE UP LINING LEATHER ived Cement a backing leather as shown Gouge a sewing channel all round edge slightly overlaps gouge. Trim excess (this is temporary). Cut, %” nar: the cover. lining edges. BACKING LEATHER CEMENT ENDS AND BACKING * SIDE EDGES OF rouve>| LEATHER Gusser Dae rower than gouges (1/8 at each side). ALIGN EDGES END VIEW SHOWING HOW Susser FORMS ‘AROUND THE ‘CASE EDGE FOLDED EDGE CSrer 2) MARK ....ON BACKING LEATHER (SEE STEP 16) Open zipper. With slide at bottom stop, begin adhering gusset assem- Apply rubber cement to all the shaded bly as shown. NOTE: areas of the case and gusset, as indicated the end has good adh underside of the gusset is up! Make sure ‘to the backing leather. Gusset must above. This will be a temporary fitting twist at first corner, to adhere around case. BONE FOLDER To WORK AR- OUND CORNERS. ADHERE Repeat procedure with ‘the opposite side. If top stops do not come out fairly even, peel loose and adjust one side, or the other, or both. until they do. Th yenting is @ temporary fitting. oa Je space srors ABOUT Ye" APART Now adhere the gusset completely around the case. Twist, at the last corner, with underside of gusset up! Gusset should end about on the mark, Tap ends for better adhesion, and carefully zip case together, to see if the fitting is satisfactory. (continued) 103 pacing iarien x If satistied with the fitting, carefully open case and lay flat, Now, make a cut (large arrows) through the ige of the gusset, along each side of the backing leather. Cut to the gouge in the gusset fold. Make these cuts at both ends of case. Viewed from the outside of the case, you'll note the gusset leathers (at cuts in step 21) lay flush with the backing leather. This reduces folding restrictions at the gouges. BURNISH Ate“ a CENTER PIECE #0z.70 Goz. CONMIDE After step 23 the case should look like the above sketch with gussets all in place. Now cut a center piece one inch longer than dimension (A) above. Notch in %” at each end. Cut this piece the width of the backing leather (B). This piece will glue on top of the gusset ends, and to the backing leather. 104 REGISTRATION ILAPORTANT ! MARKS cur OFF ‘THe FOLD 22] “ Backine LEATHER, Now. . .peel gusset ends loose, and pull up enough to expose the cuts from step 21. Cut the folded edges of the gussets off, on the gouge line. This reduces the bulk, at the ends. Re-glue the ends to the backing leather, in their former position (step 19). Re-cement any other gusset edges if they have loosened because of excess handling. CENTER PIECE Now glue the center piece in place, as above. The notched ends should fit next to the slide and the top stops, and be aligned with the edges of the backing leather. SEE STEP 27 FOR “SPECIAL REGISTRATION MARKS If satisfied with all fittings, place pencil marks on edges of case and gusset, at each side, nes must be realigned later, in step 30. the center. These (continued) ‘SPECIAL NOTE: PLACE AN IDENTIFICATION MARK ON BACK OF CASE AND BACK OF BACKING BOOK CASE - Continued Sener BACKING. LEATHER Ny PEEL LOOSE Now. . carefully peel 28 Now sate Toose around ell'edges. Also peel off the Zip the gusset closed and sew around the center pie Bucking leather (step 15) which is glued to the center This secures the gusset ends and ties the unit ta the Pisce snd gusset onds as 2 unit. Place identification backing leather. Apply cement again to all edges of the eects (see above) 30 you will be able to replace the case and the gusset. Apply glue to back of backing unit to the same position. leather and to inside back of the case. Use WAXED PAPERS 70 PREVENT PREMATURE ADHESION prop up BACK OF BE SURE IDENTIFICATION CASE Set unit in position and adhere to the back of Sot unit in, position erare flush et the edges Unzip gusset. Begin adhering at the side marks, then work (arrow). Pound with hammer to secure. around corners, to the folds of the case. If there is any Slack along the edges, adjustments can usually be made at the corners. STITCHING GROOVER ce z cueck 7] a FirHere NS Gouge sewing channels all around the gusset ‘edges and the ends of the backing piece with the stitching groover. Sew the case together; burnish ‘the edges. NOTE: Case will have to be open to sew along Repeat with the opposite side. If satisfied with all fittings, ma i the back edge (above). ‘tap around all edges with a hammer to insure adhesion. 105 T] WHERE TO BEGIN? Assemble all tools to be included in the case. With these tools, we deter- mined that %" would be enough for the thickness of the case, Draw two lines (A) 34" apart, on paper. These represent the fold lines. Next, draw two lines (B) %"” from (A). Thi to keep the tools away from the folds, representing the inside edge of the support pads for the tools. ‘Support pads fit under the interior leather (step 15). MANICURE CASE This little case has some features that can be used on larger cases of similar style. This is a simple case, yet requires exacting mea- surements. Since it is only %' thick, the zipper tape itself acts as the gusset; no leather is re- quired. Carefully follow instruc- ‘observe notations. Now, lay tools out on each side of line (B) as on sketch below. Draw around them (X). With the tools in position, draw a line (C) outside of tools to insure clearance, Now, draw line (D) above and below tools, for clearance. This will be the size and position of the support pads (step 3). With these lines established, draw outline (E) to allow clearance for zipper installa- tion, This is the cutting pattern for tthe interior of the case. 27/8" 83/8" xx" SUPPORT PAD — ‘tor COWHIDE - MAKE Two - “keAT § RIGHT 3} Lines (B), (C), and (D) form ‘the pattern for the “pad” leather. This leather will glue under the tools to firm up the case and help secure the straps that will hold the Jools in pace, Observealinctations 106 Cewo srircnina ene (ster on) + Carving design from: “Invert Leather Carving” ACTUAL SIZE 4] OR SIMILAR LEATHER use A LiGhT ZIPPER, T pesmrion z O [we Oar © i pees = chess geen cee | ee o-----t-- slots in center ob ragrens gon ran D t ! ® of all of the SS, — ri took shown © ty rt left). These i 1 gwar tt 4. punch- ol etait 4 # faa, for i ' eee HY t ge assembly in i ee rl 4 steps 5 er wh a xy through 12. ' paket # (continued) i Sa {ou uw jt 1k Bete Ly ' it nett ei 1 Nm it | to ei tg. 1 ad I ot 29 : i 1 38 @ a ee LEAR R & 1 ce See a 6 ig itself @/|8/|@ “ \e a] i ugee a | CUTTING < Sf] orp keed i | PATTERN t x 1 peseasa ft 2/22 o g = 1 ' GARMENT 2 ' ' i ' ' t i i 1 by cur FROM THE PATTERN ON Page 106~, ver Bag PUNCH LL hoo dik MUG Ne HOLES FOR EAT RIVETS Cut out the leather, and cart punch slots and holes. (6)-Now (step 3). Cut out the 7” slots. lines. in’ place. Now, carefully fi (REMEMBER around the outlines, to the leather. MEAT RIVETS {3} Insert strip ends into inside slots; rivet (above). rel Continue looping tools in place, then rivet end underneath, Cut excess strip. it off MANICURE CASE- Continued mal ‘Turn the leather flesh si DRAW FOLD LINES ON LEATHER POINT THE ENDS reesH Sipe PENCIL MARK. Cut two strips of leather "4" x7” from the same leather as the case interior (step 5). Punch holes in one end, ‘taper the other. SUPPORT PAD PATTERNS efully ike two paper patterns of the support pads ide up. Draw the fold ys over the slots per “pad” patter je up) and draw it the pat ith leather flesh sid they are now in reverse, Wil \ aN step 10. Pull strip down e [5] run ona of Insert proper tool in the strip. back loop. Pull strip down tight, theughsomestot, and bring the end up tight Ove the next tool, fo form a loop — through next slot, and up through next slot. (above). r the slot! NOTE: Keep tools centered ove Inside view showing loops and pencil Repeat procedures for securing tools marks from step 6. pe ‘on opposite side. Turn over, re move all tools. (15) Now alue the sup: port pads in place Press around (see step 6). Be loops and form as accurate aS pos” \\\ leather around sible. The pads \, pads with ‘the make a smooth sur- bone folder face, as well as pre- as shown. vent loops from (continued) slipping. 107 PRESS ONTOP OF Paps To ADHERE GLUE CARDBOARD MANICURE CASE - Continued DO,Wor SKUFE ends of tape down ‘Stops should be about e SKUFF AL epee OF CASE WHERE ZIEPER ADHERES Now, rubber cement the assembly to a smooth surfaced cardboard. The purpose is to hold the installing the zipper. leather in place whi SEWING ‘CHANNELS 000 CENTER Hiece (see tHe PATTERN) FLUSH WITH EDGE Glue the center piece in place. The end covers to “case” Apply glue to edge of zipper tape and to cover. Begin folding cover in, as above. 108 Measure zipper length by laying tape around the case (review step 9, page 102). Here, the tapes end in center of the folds. Glue zipper end at top and glue around case, as above. @ Now carefully remove the case from the cardboard. Sew the center piece. Zipper stays ad: hered to the case, 22] Cut the cover from about 2.02, leather. Cut it about %"" larger than interior assembly. Make fold gouges %" apart, in center. Place interior on fiesh side of cover. Align gouges with fold marks. Draw around the outside to establish position, Cement interior to cover. Do not cement beyond outline marks. Scribe a line %" out: side, and trim off the excess. cover FoL> couses “Fe {cenritet Allow to dry. Gouge sewing chan- nels 3/16” from edge on both sides. “Wheel” outside with No. 7 overstitch. Sew the case (see “tip”, on page 25), Now work the corners with bone folder. Hold side folds with thumb and fingers and place index finger inside zipper. Push in with folder. It will resist at first, but, gradually you car work wrinkles out and puckers will form on sist with the bone folder until smooth at corners. 26] Moisten the edge of the leather outside of the stitches. Force the edge away from the zipper with modeler. Trim off excess with edger, as shown, Use care not to cut into the stitches. 10K" 1301778" 3-RING NOTEBOOK CASE This zippered case is made for the stand- ard 3-ring binder. It is made of 3 pieces; front, back, and a back piece. It can be made of one piece, but we wanted to show how you can make it with smaller pieces, if you did not have one large enough. Note the decorative edge of the back piece, incorporating the curved edge into the carving design (photo at right). We'll show you how you arrive at the case dimensions, governed by the size of the ring binder, beginning with step 1. Back oF aoe Binder 7 es ' ' 78 0. ' cownpe i FOR \ : purasriry | e174" —> i rT LONG USE ' | nate OF Back || conwens: i 11 Raps | To determine width of the io To determine the size of the cover, snap a sheet of paper in the rings. Pull the sheet out to the center of \ rings. Measure from back of binder to page edge; add %” for zipper- gusset clearance. Add 1°" to top and bottom. The extra 4" here is needed for better zipper installation, due to Gouge the fold lines in the back-piece. Burn- ish the edges that will overlap the front and back sides. Skive the inside edges of the and cement them to the back-piece right at the edge of the gouges, as shown above. Tap with hammer to secure adhesion. = Carving designs from: back, add %4’" outside of the ring Size. This will allow for 7 lining leather thickness and take-up in folds. ora 20:3/8°—>\ mae Inverted Leather Carving” & “Figure Carving Finesse” From steps 1 and 2 you have the size of the cover for 8%" x 11” paper, with a 1 3/8” size ring binder. For this case, the two sides were cut N from 7/8 oz. leather. The back was ‘out from 6 oz. cowhide, 7%” wide, with one side scalloped, as shown. This was pre-planned with the carving design in mind. sewn Hannes, Check measurements, and square, before sewing. Keep stitches 1/8” from edges. (7}-Gouge a sewing channel around the edges. Moisten gouges, tap folds to shape the cover. (continued) 109 PREPARE THE cmnMOTE BOOK CASE ~ Continued tez,gusser Susser wo. or oF case ad f } suisnrty Sieniae Gouse We gusser. LEATHER ZIPPER. SG skive om joe Sor © enue 73 OFF STITCHING FROM STEP 6 Barron oF CASE colo mare wack a (3) Ano ave. THis “ iis st a variation in zig ane Pest espero ti Add Lng eee ais case shows 0 variati ipper and Edger eno sae pace 17, SR leather exactly as gusset installation, Determine the width of the i described on page gusset same as step 8, page 102. Length is measured as in 103, step 14. step 9, page 102, except the gusset cuts off at gouge (above). Cut the zipper length to stall as at upper right. Do not install a bottom stop, yet! ausser eouge’ Begin ADHER- ng ar Tae aoriem* N BACKING cur OFF CA «| Ustii = CUTS... FROM TS man, ron [LL i2 Sei curs Ar sives oF BROKING LEATHER Peel the gussets loose abit, and cutatthemarks —_Re-cement the gussets to the Cement a backing leather to the case (step 15, up to the gouge. Thencut —_case at the cuts. Turn ends page 103). Adhere gussets to the case (above), off the remainder of the under and install the zipper Where the gussets meet the backing leather, put 2 gusset ends on the gouges. slide as shown, with the bot mark on the gussets at the edges of the backing tom side up! leather. 14] Now, cut a center piece, as per pattern 1S | iBall slide: tor can rane ‘on page 106. Glue in place. Follow pec bee Eee steps 26, 27, 28, on pages 104, 105. is abou from edge of cover. Install the bottom stop as shown in step 16 on page 116, Pull the ends of the zip: per down tight and glue to the backing leather, NOTE: The ring binder installs closer to the bottom, RIVET CAP sols woLLoe CENTER PIECE ASSEMBLY This makes forbetter working ability of Punch holes in center assembly and rivet the zipper at the top. ring binder in place (step 13). Use rapid ‘tubular rivets, split rivets, or chicago scre none are long enough, fasten to the center piece first, then glue and séw the center piece to the backing leather! Complete the case. . .following steps 29 through 32, page 105, Once you understand procedures, ‘most zipper cases are similar in construction. fe au aH DMIHOLILS ONT BOTTOM OF CASE 110