Making Natural Products - Complete Guide

Making Natural
Beauty Products
by Sally W. Trew with Zonella B. Gould
A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.
Making Natural
Beauty Products
by Sally W. Trew with Zonella B. Gould
A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.
ALPHA BOOKS
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Copyright 2010 by Sally W. Trew with Zonella B. Gould

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Publisher: Marie Butler-Knight
Associate Publisher: Mike Sanders
Copy Editor: Emily Bell Garner

Book Designers: William Thomas, Rebecca Batchelor
Senior Managing Editor: Billy Fields
Indexer: Celia McCoy
Acquisitions Editors: Karyn Gerhard, Tom Stevens
Layout: Brian Massey
Senior Development Editor: Christy Wagner
Proofreader: John Etchison
Production Editor: Kayla Dugger
Zonella and I both would like to say a special thank you to Ken Bower for creating SoapCalc.
I would like to dedicate my part of this book to my family for all their support and help. Sally Trew
I would like to dedicate my part of this book to my family for all their support and help. Zonella Gould
Contents
Part 1:
Natural Beauty Product Basics ................................. 1
Why Make Your Own? .................................................3
Protect Your Bodyand the Earth .............................................. 3
Cleanliness Counts......................................................................... 4
Sanitize, Sanitize, Sanitize ......................................................... 4
Good Sanitizing Products to Use.................................................. 5
Commercial Sanitizers................................................................. 6
Preserving Safety......................................................................... 6
Caring for Your Skin...................................................................... 7
Beautiful Butters and Oils ..........................................9
A Few Notes on Butters and Oils.................................................. 9
Butters and Oils for Making Beauty Products ........................... 10
All About Essential Oils ............................................25
How Much Essential Oil to Use?................................................ 25
Essential Oils for Making Beauty Products ............................... 26
Helpful Herbs ...............................................................37
Herbs for Making Beauty Products ............................................ 37
Extracts and Infusions ................................................................. 43
Making Extracts........................................................................ 43
Making Infusions....................................................................... 43
Part 2:
Pampering Skin and Body Products .....................45
Clays and Masks..........................................................47
The Importance of Labeling ....................................................... 47
Clays and Their Benefits ............................................................. 48
Bentonite Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups)............. 49
French Green Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups) ...... 50
Green Illite Clay (Illite Group).................................................. 50
Fullers Earth (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups).............. 50
White Kaolin Clay (Kaolinite Group)........................................ 50
Pink, Red, Black, and Yellow Kaolin Clay (Kaolinite Group) ..... 50
Moroccan Red Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups)...... 51
Moroccan Rhassoul Clay (Montmorillonite and
Smectite Groups)..................................................................... 51
Rose Clay (Blend) ...................................................................... 51
Which Clay Is Best for Your Skin Type? ................................... 51
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The Complete Idiots Guide to Making Natural Beauty Products
Making Facial Masks ................................................................... 52
Simple Milk and Clay Mask .............................................. 53
Dry Skin Mask.................................................................. 54
Normal Skin Mask ............................................................ 54
Oily Skin Mask.................................................................. 55
Oily Problem Skin Mask.................................................... 55
Delicious Chocolate and Strawberry Mask.......................... 56
Rejuvenating Mask ............................................................ 56
Making Facial Peels...................................................................... 56
Simple Facial Peel .............................................................. 57
Facial Peel for Mature Skin ............................................... 58
Facial Peel for Oily Skin .................................................... 58
All Things Facial......................................................... 59
The Basics of Making Facial Products ....................................... 59
Making Facial Creams ................................................................. 60
Extreme Facial Crme ....................................................... 60
Aai Face Butter ................................................................ 61
Light Facial Cream............................................................ 62
Anti-Aging Facial Cream for Younger Skin....................... 62
Anti-Aging Facial Cream for Mature Skin ....................... 63
Anti-Aging Eye Cream ...................................................... 64
Moisturizing Facial Cream................................................ 64
Light Moisturizer .............................................................. 65
Making Facial Cleansers.............................................................. 65
Cold Cream........................................................................ 66
Sunflower Facial Cleansing Cream.................................... 66
Facial Cleansing Cream for Problem Skin.......................... 67
Making Exfoliants ........................................................................ 67
Avena Facial Cleanser and Exfoliant ................................. 67
Jojoba Exfoliant ................................................................. 68
Oatmeal Exfoliant ............................................................. 68
Making Facial Balms.................................................................... 69
Dry Skin Facial Balm........................................................ 70
Snow Ski Facial Balm........................................................ 71
Kokum Butter Moisturizing Facial Balm........................... 71
Making Facial Toners .................................................................. 72
Facial Toner for Normal to Dry Skin ................................ 72
Facial Toner for Normal to Sensitive Skin ......................... 73
Facial Toner for Rosacea..................................................... 73
Contents
Facial Toner for Oily Skin ................................................. 74
Facial Toner for Acne......................................................... 74
Rose Water Facial Toner .................................................... 74
Body Beautiful.............................................................77
Making Body Butter..................................................................... 77
Thick and Luscious Body Butter ......................................... 79
Simple Body Butter ............................................................ 81
Body Butter for Mature Skin ............................................. 81
Pregnant Belly Butter ........................................................ 82
Only-the-Best Body Butter................................................. 82
Painful Feet Cream............................................................ 83
Antifungal Cream.............................................................. 84
Making Lotions............................................................................ 84
Baby Lotion........................................................................ 85
Light and Silky Lotion ....................................................... 86
Light and Lovely Lotion ..................................................... 86
Super-Rich Lotion for Mature Skin ................................... 87
Moisturizer for Acne-Prone Skin....................................... 87
Making Body Powders ................................................................. 88
Simple After-Bath Powder................................................. 88
Making Scrubs.............................................................................. 89
Wow! What a Scrub .......................................................... 90
Simple Sugar Scrub ........................................................... 91
Making Shower Scrub Cubes ...................................................... 91
Shower Scrub Cubes........................................................... 92
Making Milk Baths ...................................................................... 94
Luscious Milk Bath ............................................................ 94
Making Bath Tea.......................................................................... 95
Floral Bath Tea.................................................................. 95
Making Bath Oils ......................................................................... 96
Lavender Bath Oil ............................................................. 96
Basic Bath Oil.................................................................... 97
Making Fragrance Blends ............................................................ 97
Moonlit Tango Fragrance Blend......................................... 98
St. Louis Slide Fragrance Blend ......................................... 98
English Porcelain Fragrance Blend..................................... 98
Christmas Rose Fragrance Blend........................................ 98
Pearl of the East Fragrance Blend ...................................... 98
vii
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Making Bath Bombs..................................................................... 99
Bath Bomb ......................................................................... 99
Making Jelly Soap for Kids........................................................ 102
Bath-Time Jelly Soap for Kids ......................................... 102
Part 3:
Creating Mineral Makeup ...................................... 105
Mineral Makeup .........................................................107

The Basics of Making Mineral Makeup ................................... 107
Your Work Area ......................................................................... 109
Making Pressed Powders ........................................................... 109
Making Mineral Foundations.....................................................111
Natural Sheer Base Filler................................................. 112
Medium-Coverage Base Filler.......................................... 113
Maximum-Coverage Base Filler ...................................... 113
Making Color Grinds .................................................................114
Ivory Color Grind.............................................................115
Sand Tone Color Grind.....................................................116
Gold Tone Color Grind .....................................................117
Sun Deep Gold Color Grind .............................................117
Honey Russet Color Grind ................................................118
Olive Color Grind.............................................................118
Rose Tones Color Grind.....................................................118
Bronze Color Grind ......................................................... 119
Making Color Correctors...........................................................119
Green Color Corrector ..................................................... 120
Violet Color Corrector...................................................... 120
Yellow Color Corrector ..................................................... 121
Making Concealer ...................................................................... 121
Concealer ......................................................................... 122
Blushes and Bronzers .............................................. 123
The Basics of Making Blush...................................................... 123
Making Color Grinds for Blushes............................................. 124
Pink Tones ............................................................................... 125
Sweet Valentine Blush...................................................... 125
Sweetly Innocent Blush..................................................... 126
Sweetheart Pink Blush ..................................................... 127
Rosy Tones ............................................................................... 127
Pink Rose Blush................................................................ 127
Soft Rose Blush................................................................. 128
Contents
Hot House Rose Blush....................................................... 128
Trinity Blush ................................................................... 129
Deep Red Tones........................................................................ 129
Wine and Roses Blush ...................................................... 129
Deep Rosy Red Blush ........................................................ 130
Deeply Red Blush ............................................................. 130
Lucille Blush .................................................................... 131
Peach Tones.............................................................................. 131
Peaches and Apricot Blush ................................................ 131
Romance Blush................................................................. 132
Lightly Dusted Peach Blush.............................................. 132
Plum Tones .............................................................................. 133
Sweet Plum Blush ............................................................ 133
Plum N Berries Blush.................................................... 133
Brown-Cinnamon Tones .......................................................... 134
My Azure Blush............................................................... 134
Cinnamon-Apple Blush.................................................... 134
Tibetan Sunset Blush ....................................................... 135
Making Bronzers ........................................................................ 135
Base Filler for Bronzers ................................................... 136
Very Light Bronzer Color Grind...................................... 137
Medium-Light Bronzer Color Grind ............................... 138
Medium Bronzer Color Grind ......................................... 138
Dark Bronzer Color Grind .............................................. 139
Even Darker Bronzer Color Grind .................................. 139
10
For the Eyes ................................................................141
The Basics of Making Eye Shadows ......................................... 141
Making Eye Shadow Color Grinds ........................................... 143
Highlighters............................................................................. 143
Creamy White Eye Shadow.............................................. 144
Bright N White Eye Shadow ......................................... 145
Peaches N Cream Eye Shadow ....................................... 146
Highlighter for Dark Eyes................................................ 146
Blues........................................................................................ 147
Blue Gems Eye Shadow.................................................... 147
Forget-Me-Not Eye Shadow............................................. 147
Blue Icicles Eye Shadow.................................................... 148
Poppin Blue Eye Shadow ................................................. 148
Smokin Steel Eye Shadow ............................................... 148
ix
Browns .................................................................................... 149
Berry Brown Eye Shadow ................................................ 149
Smoky Brown Eye Shadow............................................... 149
Deep Swiss Chocolate Eye Shadow .................................... 149
Soft Brown Reflections Eye Shadow ................................. 150
Aladdins Finery Eye Shadow........................................... 150
Greens ..................................................................................... 150
Surrender to Me Eye Shadow ...........................................151
Always and Forever Green Eye Shadow ............................151
Softly Green Eye Shadow ..................................................151
Ireland Eye Shadow ......................................................... 152
Grays/Silvers ........................................................................... 152
Silver Girl Eye Shadow.................................................... 152
Smokin Silver Eye Shadow.............................................. 152
Peaches..................................................................................... 153
Rich and Deeply Peach Eye Shadow.................................. 153
Electric Peaches N Oranges Eye Shadow ........................ 153
Soft Peach Eye Shadow..................................................... 154
Tibetan Peach Eye Shadow............................................... 154
Purples .................................................................................... 154
Deep Purple Haze Eye Shadow .........................................155
Deep and Smoky Purple Eye Shadow ................................155
Purple Fog Eye Shadow.....................................................155
Purple People Eater Eye Shadow ...................................... 156
Teals ........................................................................................ 156
Teal Me Eye Shadow........................................................ 156
Teal We Meet Again Eye Shadow..................................... 157
Deep Teal Waters Eye Shadow ......................................... 157
Sparkling Turquoise Eye Shadow ..................................... 157
Making Eyeliner......................................................................... 158
Eyeliner Pencil ................................................................. 159
Pressed Powder Eyeliner ................................................... 160
Liquid Eyeliner .................................................................161
Making Mascara......................................................................... 162
Mascara ........................................................................... 163
11
Everything Lips ......................................................... 167
Making Lip Balms...................................................................... 167
Shea-YaLike Lip Balm ................................................... 169
Bee Sweet Lip Balm ......................................................... 169
Cocoa Buttery Lip Balm................................................... 170
Contents
Making Lip Gloss........................................................................171
Simple and Conditioning Lip Gloss .................................. 171
Colorful Lip Gloss ............................................................ 172
Lava Lip Gloss ................................................................. 172
Making Lipsticks........................................................................ 173
Lip-Loving Lipstick.......................................................... 174
Mango Lipstick ................................................................ 177
Making Color Grinds for Lipsticks .......................................... 178
Browns and Cinnamons ........................................................... 178
My d Azure Lipstick Color Grind ................................... 179
Sensuous Lipstick Color Grind ......................................... 179
Cinnamon Fire Lipstick Color Grind ............................... 180
Umber Penny Lipstick Color Grind.................................. 180
Nudes ...................................................................................... 180
Nude Sparks Lipstick Color Grind ................................... 180
Nude Model Lipstick Color Grind .................................... 181
Flirtatious Bride Lipstick Color Grind............................. 181
Oranges ................................................................................... 181
Autumn Orange Lipstick Color Grind ............................. 181
Orange Sorbet Lipstick Color Grind................................. 182
Peaches..................................................................................... 182
Sizzling Lipstick Color Grind .......................................... 182
Peaches N Brown Sugar Lipstick Color Grind................ 182
Pinks ....................................................................................... 183
Sweet Kisses Lipstick Color Grind .................................... 183
Strawberry Pearls Lipstick Color Grind........................... 183
Pink Taffy Lipstick Color Grind ...................................... 183
Spun Sugar Lipstick Color Grind .................................... 184
Sweetheart Pink Lipstick Color Grind.............................. 184
Plums ...................................................................................... 184
In the Plum Lipstick Color Grind .................................... 184
Plum Berries Lipstick Color Grind .................................. 185
Reds ......................................................................................... 185
Red Spiced Cinnamon Lipstick Color Grind ..................... 185
Incurable Romantic Lipstick Color Grind......................... 185
Deep Chestnut Lipstick Color Grind ................................ 186
Delicious Intentions Lipstick Color Grind......................... 186
Making Lipstick Pencils ............................................................ 186
Lip Liner Pencil Base ....................................................... 187
xi
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Part 4: For the Fellas and Beyond ................................... 189
12
For the Guys ...............................................................191
The Basics of Making Manly Products .................................... 191
Fragrance Blends for Men.......................................................... 192
His Texas Waltz Fragrance Blend.................................... 193
His Cowboy Two-Step Fragrance Blend............................ 193
His Tropical Spice Fragrance Blend .................................. 193
His Blackberry Tweed Fragrance Blend ............................ 193
His Handsome and Distinguished Fragrance Blend.......... 194
Making Mens Shaving Cream .................................................. 194
His Shaving Cream ......................................................... 194
Making After-Shave Splash ....................................................... 196
His Old Lime After-Shave Splash.................................... 196
His Embracing After-Shave Splash.................................. 197
Making After-Shave Lotion ...................................................... 198
His Cowboy Two-Step After-Shave Lotion ....................... 198
His Essentially After-Shave Lotion .................................. 199
Making After-Bath Powders...................................................... 200
His Dry and Comfortable After-Bath Powder.................. 201
His Deodorizing After-Bath Powder ................................ 201
Making Manly Moisturizers...................................................... 202
His Mature Skin Facial Moisturizer ............................... 202
His Light Facial Moisturizer ........................................... 203
His Light Facial Moisturizer for Acne-Prone Skin .......... 203
Making Exfoliants for Men ....................................................... 204
His Oily Skin Exfoliant ................................................... 204
His Normal and Dry Skin Exfoliant ............................... 205
Making Mens Skin-Tightening Masks..................................... 205
His Skin-Tightening and Moisturizing Mask .................. 206
His Exfoliant and Cleansing Mask................................... 206
Making Foot-Care Products for Him....................................... 207
His Exfoliating Foot Cream ............................................. 207
His Stinky Feet Lotion ..................................................... 208
His Stinky Feet Powder.................................................... 209
His Peppermint Foot Cream............................................. 210
His Seriously Dry and Cracked Foot Mask ....................... 210
His Foot Butter ................................................................ 211
Making Massage Oil for Him ....................................................211
His Massage Oil............................................................... 212
Contents
13
Final Bits and Pieces................................................ 213
Those Pearly Whites ................................................................. 213
Peppermint Toothpowder.................................................. 214
Healthy Gums Toothpowder ............................................. 214
Get Your Nails Noticed!............................................................ 215
Kukui and Shea Cuticle Cream........................................ 215
Cuticle Oil ....................................................................... 215
Cuticle Stick..................................................................... 216
Custom Nail Polish .......................................................... 217
For Teen Girls! And Almost-Teens, Too!..................................217
Glitter Gel ....................................................................... 217
Glitter Spray ................................................................... 218
Fragrant Body Spray........................................................ 218
Solid Perfume .................................................................. 219
Zit Be Gone ..................................................................... 219
Other Useful Odds and Ends .................................................... 220
Pregnant Belly Balm........................................................ 220
Stretch Mark Oil ............................................................. 220
Hand Sanitizer................................................................ 221
Fragrance Stones.............................................................. 221
Lotion Bars ...................................................................... 222
Un-Petroleum Jelly.......................................................... 222
Shower Sinus Tabs ........................................................... 223
Take Care of Your Hair ............................................................. 224
Easy Hair Conditioner ..................................................... 224
Conditioning Spray for Dry Hair..................................... 225
Conditioning Spray for Oily Hair .................................... 225
For Special Skin Treatment....................................................... 225
Cracked Heels and Hands Balm ....................................... 226
Rash Spray....................................................................... 226
Red Skin Balancing Spray................................................ 227
Antifungal Cream............................................................ 227
Arnica Balm .................................................................... 228
All-Purpose Hand Cream ................................................ 229
Rashes-and-More Cream ................................................. 229
Total Body Balm............................................................... 230
Soothing Oils for Mature Skin ................................................. 230
Velvet Skin Oil for Mature Skin...................................... 231
Nourishing Oil for Mature Skin ...................................... 231
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Scar Tissue Oil ............................................................................231
Scar Tissue Oil ................................................................ 232
Rosehip Scar Tissue Oil .................................................... 232
Making an Essential Oil Blend ................................................. 232
Essential Oil Blend for Pain Relief ................................... 233
Antifungal Essential Oil Blend......................................... 233
Appendixes
A
Glossary ..................................................................... 235
INCI Labeling Names .............................................. 243
FDA Labeling Rules................................................. 265
Resources .................................................................. 267
Preservatives.............................................................. 271
Index ........................................................................... 277
Introduction
In the early 1970s, I went to beauty school to become a hairdresser. I quickly sped
through all the basic classroom work and was soon out on the floor doing hair. It
was there that I met an incredible instructor named Marc London. Marc was a very
forward-thinking man and had been working with chemists to create his own line
of cosmetics. Marc taught me everything he knew about makeup. He and I became
close friends, and soon I was helping sell his cosmetics. What did Marc use for his
powdered eye shadows? Micas.
I learned so much from Marc, and we remained close friends right up to his death in
early 2000. His techniques are the base for all my cosmetic blends and formulations
in this book. With my background in art and his teaching, Ive been able to create
blends and color grinds for all types of mineral makeup products and now share that
knowledge with you.
I love to formulate. Give me a challenge, and I will happily meet it. Tell me theres
no way to make a product without chemical ingredients, and I wont give up until
Ive figured out how to make that very product with all-natural ingredients. For this
book, that challenge was natural, no-chemical mascara. I have to admit, I almost
threw in the towel on that one! Just when I was ready to give up, the last formulation
I created worked! Challenge met successfully!
Learning how to make your own beauty products will save you lots of money over
the coming years, and thats an important point. However, knowing exactly what
ingredients are used and how they work is far more important than the money youll
save. Nature always provides, and we believe natural is best. When using commercial
products, you could be using ingredients you dont even know are there. The Food
and Drug Administration (FDA) only requires that ingredients used in quantities
greater than 1 percent be listed on a products label. A commercial product may claim
to have shea butter, for example, but read the label. You may not find it listed because
the manufacturer used less than 1 percent in the formulation.
Think about that for a moment, and youll realize that the same is true for other
ingredients. You might not know everything thats in the product youre buying and
using on your skin. When making your own cosmetics, youll know and control how
much of each ingredient you use in your product. That knowledge is worth a million.
Who wants to goop chemically made products on their eyes? Wouldnt you prefer
to use natural mascara? Some of these natural products might be a little tricky to
make at first, but the benefits are worth the trouble when you know youre not using
anything that could harm you.
xvi
In the chapters about the oils, herbs, and essential oils, you learn so many natural
ways to help improve your daily life. We tell you how to use herbs and essential oils
to clean the air you breathe in your home, which essential oils can be used on cuts
and abrasions, and many more helpful tips.
The co-author relationship Zonella and I have works well because Zonella is the
strongest in the areas Im weakest and vice versa. So we each penned the chapters that
highlight our strengths. I have enjoyed formulating and testing the recipes in this
book. We hope that you will gain the knowledge from this book to help you live a
healthier and greener lifestyle.
So speaking of recipesand this book contains over 250 of them!where should you
start? I suggest you sample the simple recipes if this is the first time youve attempted
to make beauty products. This will be a lot like cookingthere are certain steps
when adding dry ingredients to wet, and you may mix two or three things together
in one bowl and later add that bowl to a bigger mixture. If you can follow a recipe for
cooking, you can follow these recipes, too, and soon will be making your very own
natural products. Youre going to love this! Try making one of the lotion recipes from
Chapter 3. Lotion sounds hard but is actually so easy and fun to make!
How to Use This Book

In this book you learn how to make just about every beauty product you can think
ofand make them with all-natural ingredients. Heres how we break it all down:
In Part 1, Natural Beauty Product Basics, you learn how to get startedespecially
how to prepare and sterilize your workplace, equipment, and containers. You also
learn all about oils, butters, and herbs, and how to incorporate them into natural
beauty products.
In Part 2, Pampering Skin and Body Products, we jump right in with facial and
clay masks, lotions, creams, body butters, bath bombs, and more. No matter your
skin type, youll find a recipe to use.
In Part 3, Creating Mineral Makeup, we give you all the recipes for making foun
dations, concealers, correctors, blushes, bronzers, eye shadows, lipsticks, lip liners,
eyeliners, and mascara. With more than 80 color grinds, youre sure to find the right
color for you. We also give you instructions on how to blend colors for your skin type
and tone.
Weve even dedicated a chapter to the guysbecause they need beauty products,
too!with recipes for everything from shaving needs to moisturizers and colognes.
Introduction
xvii
Thats the first chapter in Part 4, For the Fellas and Beyond. Finally, we close the
book with a final chapter of miscellaneous recipes for fun and useful products we
couldnt fit in the other chapters.
In the back of the book, youll find several helpful appendixes, from a glossary; to
INCI and FDA labeling guidelines; to a list of resources of our well-known, trusted,
and loved suppliers. This book will keep you busy making and enjoying products for
years to come!
Extra Bits
Throughout the book, youll see nuggets of extra information, neatly packaged in
sidebar boxes. Heres what to look for:
BEAUTY BIT
These sidebars contain definitions of beauty productrelated words you might
not yet be familiar with.
IN THE MIRROR
Look to these sidebars for fun and interesting bits of information.
PRETTY POINTER
Be sure to check out these sidebars. They contain helpful hints and tips to make
the job easier.
SAFETY FIRST
Youll definitely want to heed the warnings in these sidebars.
Acknowledgments
We would like to say thank you to Jen at Lotion Crafters and Kaila at TKB Trading
for all their help and for taking the time out of their busy days to answer questions.
Its always a pleasure to talk with you, and you both are always so helpful and willing
to share your experience and knowledge. Thank you!
xviii
A big shout-out to all the list members of the ApplesNBerries Yahoo! group!
We would also like to thank three great women, Marilyn Allen, Karyn Gerhard, and
Christy Wagner. You all worked very hard to make this book a reality.
Sally Trew
I would like to thank all the people who have given me encouragement to persevere.
Zonella Gould
Trademarks
All terms mentioned in this book that are known to be or are suspected of being
trademarks or service marks have been appropriately capitalized. Alpha Books and
Penguin Group (USA) Inc. cannot attest to the accuracy of this information. Use of
a term in this book should not be regarded as affecting the validity of any trademark
or service mark.
Natural Beauty
Product Basics
Part
Welcome to the world of making natural beauty products! Part 1 starts you off at the
beginning, explaining why its better for you to go natural, and might open your
eyes to some of the undesirables used in the commercial beauty products you have
been using.
Then we cover everything you need to know about oils and butters used to make
natural beauty products, along with yummy essential oils and versatile herbs. This
part will become a well-read and -used reference for you when you start to venture
into formulating your own recipes and productsand trust us, you will.
The following chapters explain all about the oils and butters and the basic properties
and uses for each, so you can better decide what you want in your recipe. Next we
look at essential oils. Theyre so much more than pretty scents! Then we walk through
the herb garden. Youll be amazed what these herbs can do besides making your food
taste good, especially after you learn how to make infusions and tinctures.
Chapter
Why Make Your Own?
In This Chapter
t Greening your beauty products
t Tips for keeping your workspace spotless
t The importance of sanitizing your equipment
t What your skin really needs to be healthy
Why make your own natural beauty products? A better question might be why not
make them! There are so many benefits: you get to control what ingredients are and,
perhaps more importantly, are not used (you cant do that with commercial products);
you can create all the colors and scents you love; and by avoiding nasty chemicals, you
help protect the earth a littleand each little bit helps!
This book was such a joy to write. We cant wait for you to dig in to all our favorite
recipes and start making your own natural beauty productseverything from simple
cleansers to mascara. With the recipes in this book, you can be more beautiful and
beautifully green, too.
Protect Your Bodyand the Earth

Going green. Getting back to basics. These phrases are bandied about a lot these days.
But when was the last time you knew where and how your food was grown? Or
recognized every ingredient on a food label? Take a look at your cosmetics. Do you
recognize all those ingredients, or are most chemicals youve never seen before, let
alone recognize? Our lives have become very convenientand thats not always a bad
thing! But when we dont pay attention to the chemicals we use in and on our bodies,
and therefore in and on our earth, it might be time to step back and reexamine things
a bit.
Part 1:Natural Beauty Product Basics
In the United States, cosmetics dont have to be pretested or approved before theyre
marketed. Thats a shocking but true fact. Reading labels and knowing which chemi
cals are harmful can make a difference in your life and that of your familys.
Many commercially made cosmetic products contain carcinogens. Even commercially
produced natural products can contain harmful chemicals. Some natural ingredients,
such as lanolin, a by-product of wool, can accidentally contain chemicals if the sheep
were exposed while they were grazing in the pasture. The chemicals can later show
up in the lanolin.
BEAUTY BIT
A carcinogen is a cancer-causing chemical. A few common carcinogens are
diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA), bronopel, dioxane, and colorants
Blue 1 and Green 3. Many natural products contain ingredients that are known
carcinogens or that can combine with other ingredients to form a carcinogen,
such as triclosan, benzethonium chloride, formaldehyde, butylated hydroxy
anisole, butylated hydroxytoluene, cocamidopropyl betaine, DEA/TEA, PEG,
parabens, and dimethicone, just to name a few. Always read labels.
Many common items found in most households can be harmful to humans and pets.
Toothpaste, shampoo, antibaterial soap, childens bubble bathjust to name a few
can, and often do, contain harmful chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and
preservatives such as formaldehyde (a.k.a. quaternium-15).
Start reading labels. And just because it says natural doesnt mean the product is
actually natural and safe. Now you see why its such a good idea to learn to make your
own? When you make your own cosmetics, using natural ingredients, you not only
help yourself but you also help the environment.
Cleanliness Counts
Now lets discuss where youll be working and the equipment youll be using. These
are almost as important, healthwise, as the ingredients youll use.
Sanitize, Sanitize, Sanitize

The surfaces of your kitchen counters and equipment you use when making beauty
products may look clean, but in truth, theyre covered with contaminants. Before
you start any project, first thoroughly clean your workspace and all your supplies to
ensure everything is free of germs and bacteria that could contaminate your beauty
Chapter 1:Why Make Your Own?
products. Even if youre only making them for yourself, you still need to clean before
you start. Sanitize everything youll be using: utensils, mixer beaters, saucepans,
containers, counterseverything.
SAFETY FIRST
If you dont sanitize your workspace and everything youll be using, harmful
germs, bacteria, mold, and fungus will grow in your products. The bacteria and
germs can cause serious infections, and the fungus and mold are just plain nasty
and ruin whatever they get into. Never underestimate the importance of cleaning
your supplies!
You can still kill the germs and bacteria on your counters and be green while doing
it by using white distilled vinegar. Wipe down all the hard surfaces that will come
in contact with your project. You can also use regular alcohol. Either one is just fine.
You also have a choice of many commercially made antibacterial cleaners, but be
aware of what youre actually using. Read the labels before making your choice.
We cant say this enough: its very important that you sanitize your containers. And
sometimes it seems there are as many methods of sterilization as there are home
crafters! Many have tried pouring boiling water into bottles and jars only to stand
there and watch them warp from the heat of the water. Some have tried steaming the
bottles and jars, and again, watched them warp. Not good.
The simplest and safest way to sanitize your containers is to either use a commercial
sanitizer or plain ol alcohol. Either way will get the job done. No matter which
method you choose to use, let the bottles and jars air-dry afterward.
To use alcohol to sanitize your jars and bottles, simply put a small amount of alcohol
in the bottle or jar, screw on the lid, and shake. Pour out the alcohol, turn the jar/
bottle and lid upside down on a sanitized counter, and let air-dry. You can also use a
spray bottle filled with alcohol to spray the lids or small jars. Again, let them air-dry.
Good Sanitizing Products to Use

Lets take a look at some of the many options you have when it comes to sanitizers:
Alcohol You can use regular alcohol and a cloth or gauze to wipe all the counters,
equipment, and utensils. Let them air-dry. While youre making beauty products,
its a good idea to keep a spray bottle full of alcohol handy. You may need to spray a
spoon or spatula as you work. You can get this alcohol at any drugstore or grocery
store.
Hydrogen peroxide At 3 percent, this peroxide is strong enough to kill most types
of bacteria in about 10 minutes. And its easy to use and readily available at most
drugstores. Simply pour a small amount of peroxide onto the counter surface or wipe
it on with a cloth or gauze. Hydrogen peroxide is a good option to use as a rinsing
substance for sanitized items. Water contains all sorts of contaminants, so it would
defeat the sanitizing.
Bleach You can make the cheapest and most readily available sanitizing solution by
adding 1 tablespoon bleach to 1 gallon water. Add your equipment to the mixture, let
soak for 20 minutes, and drain. Rinsing supposedly isnt necessary at this concentra
tion, but many home-crafters, myself included, rinse with some boiled water thats
been allowed to cool to be sure no off-flavors from the chlorine make it to the final
beauty product.
Commercial Sanitizers
Many commercial sanitizers are available online or at specialty stores. Follow the man
ufacturers recommendations for using these. Our choice of commercial sanitizers is
called One Step. Its easy to work with and requires no rinsing.
Other sanitizers include B-Brite, C-Brite, PBW, Star San, and Iodophor.
PRETTY POINTER
Sanitizing your containers is a boring job, so you could sanitize everything ahead
of time, all at once, and store the clean bottles, jars, lids, etc. in zipper-lock bags
until youre ready to use them.
Preserving Safety
Washing your hands before and during your projects is also very important. However,
no matter how careful you are and how hard you try, sometimes things grow anyway.
To avoid this, use an across-the-board preservative or a preservative system.
An across-the-board preservative also kills, mold, fungus, and gram-positive and gram
negative bacteria. You can choose from several on the market, and the type you need
depends on the product youre making. (See Appendix E to help you make the correct
choice.)
If you decide to start selling your products, you also need to have them tested regu
larly to ensure theyre safe for use.
Chapter 1:Why Make Your Own?
Caring for Your Skin

Okay. Now that thats all out of the way, lets talk about your skin. After all, thats a
big part of how you choose your beauty products, to either make your skin look good
or cover what doesnt look good.
In this book, we give you what you need to know to make a full regimen of facial care
products, including cleansers, toners, moisturizers, eye gels, night creams, and facial
masks. Then we move on to making makeup, with chapters that tell you how to make
foundations, concealers, color correctors, blushes, bronzers, eye shadows, eyeliners,
and lipsticks.
Even with all those tools at our disposal, and although we all want to look the best we
can, we may not know what to do to take care of our skin properly. And even when
we do know, we dont always take the time to do whats necessary! It helps to have
healthy, youthful genes, but many of us just arent that lucky.
By following some easy tips, you can have healthier skin that will keep you looking
younger and more beautiful for longer. All you have to do is make it a daily habit. Set
aside a certain time thats just your time to pamper you. Soon youll look forward to
this time!
PRETTY POINTER
When drying your face with a towel, blot, dont rub. And never pull downward on
your face. It will fall downward soon enoughdont help speed up the process!
When you get up each morning, wash your face with either a gentle facial wash
or a bar of your own homemade facial soap. (Check out our companion book, The
Complete Idiots Guide to Making Natural Soaps, for some recipes!) The soap you buy at
the store is too harsh for your face, no matter what brand it is.
At night, clean your face with a cleanser so you can remove all your makeup easily.
You can use a toner or astringent to remove any leftover residue from your skin so its
squeaky clean. Be sure to moisturize your skin after youve cleaned it to avoid drying
it out. You can make a light moisturizer for summer, and if you need a little more
moisturizer in the winter, you can adjust the oils you use to make a heavier version.
You should exfoliate at least two times a week, and three would be better. By doing
this, you remove dead skin cells, unclog your pores, and improve the look and feel of
your skin. You can create your own facial peels that make your skin feel so good and
leave it looking more vibrant and healthy. Facial clay masks also make you feel like
youve had a day at the spa. We give you recipes for both in later chapters!
Believe it or not, you can make all these products! The recipes and instructions are
in this book, waiting for you to give them a go. With all the recipes weve packed in
these pagesover 250 of them!you could stay busy pampering yourself for at least
a year!
And perhaps the best thing about this is that all these recipes use natural ingredients,
and therefore wont pollute the air, the earth, or your skin. Now thats living beauti
ful and beautifully green.
The Least You Need to Know
t Avoiding the potentially dangerous chemicals found in many of todays commer

cially made beauty products is one very good reason for making your own.
t You have to sanitize everything you plan on using when making beauty products,
as well as clean your workspace, but you can do this and still be earth friendly.
t Put your best skin forward by taking good care of it. Make it a routine, and it will
soon become one you look forward to every morning and night.
Beautiful Butters
and Oils
Chapter
In This Chapter
t All about butters

t Oils youll want to get to know
t The best butters and oils for what ails ya
This chapter is filled with butters and oils you can use to make your own natural
beauty products. The list might seen long and intimidating, but if you start experi
menting with some oils and butters by following the recipes in Part 2, youll soon
become more familiar with what different oils and butters do and can even start
creating your own concoctions. And thats where some of the real fun begins!
A Few Notes on Butters and Oils

Before we dive into the list of butters and oils, lets get a few things straight about
what youll see in the following sections. Lets start with the name(s). The first name
of a butter or an oil is its common name. Following that is the botanical name. Youll
need the botanical name when you start making labels for your beauty products.
Youll see that many of the butters in this list have a hardness value listed. The higher
the number, the harder the butter is. You can use the harder butters to thicken lotions
and creams.
A shelf life is also listed with each butter and oil. This is the approximate life span
of each butter or oil, from the time you open it to when it starts to go rancid. You
can lengthen the shelf life of oils. One way is by adding rosemary oleoresin extract
(ROE). Simply add 1 tablespoon (14.8 milliliters) per 7 pounds (3.18 kilograms) oil.
Be sure to add the extract to the oils as soon as you get them. You cant add the resin
10
to butters, so it might be best to freeze them if you want to keep them longer. Freeze
in zipper-lock bags at least 4mm thick, and be sure the butter is double bagged.
When ready to use, just set out what you need to thaw.
The properties of the oils and butters are listed when known. This information in
cludes vitamins and minerals that are beneficial to the skin. Some of the uses are listed
with each oil and butter so you can get a better idea of what you could use them in.
Butters and Oils for Making Beauty Products

And now, without further ado, here are the butters and oils you can use when making
your natural beauty products.
IN THE MIRROR
There are only a few natural butters. The rest are manmade or designer butters.
The latter are made by hydrogenating the oil. This is a process wherein the oil
molecules are forced back into themselves. This creates a very soft butter. Olive
butter is an example of one of these designer butters.
Aai oil (Euterpe Oleracea pulp oil) Aai oil contains essential fatty acids; omega
3, -6, and -9; vitamins B1, B2, B3, E, and C; iron; calcium; potassium; amino acids;
phytoster; and polyphenols. It helps with anti-aging, dry skin, mature skin, acne,
eczema, psoriasis, and muscle aches. Try it in lip products, after-sun products, lotions,
facial creams, body butters, and balms. It has a shelf life of 6 months to a year.
Aai oil is pretty new to our market and still very expensive. This oil is being tested
for use in fighting cancer and other diseases as well as for weight loss. Many people
use the berries to make drinks and shakes.
Almond (sweet) oil (Prunus Amygdalus) Sweet almond oil contains essential fatty
acids and vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, and E. It helps with dry and itchy skin, mature skin,
eczema, psoriasis, and inflamed skin. Try it in lotions, creams, balms, lip products,
bath and body products, and soaps. It has a shelf life of 6 months to a year.
Sweet almond oil isnt very expensive and is used in many of our bath and body prod
ucts for its properties as well as price. Sweet almond oil is a soft, light-gold-colored oil.
Andiroba oil (Carapa Guianensis) Andiroba oil is antiviral, antifungal, antibacte
rial, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, and insecticidal. It contains essen
tial fatty acids oleic, palmitic, linoleic, and stearic. It helps eczema, psoriasis, and
Chapter 2:Beautiful Butters and Oils
11
skin fungi, and it prevents head lice. It also repels bugs. Try it in massage oil, lotions,
facial creams, hair products, balms, and candles. It has a shelf life of 1 year; refriger
ate after opening to extend life.
Andiroba oil absorbs easily into the skin and hair.
Apricot kernel oil (Prunus Armeniaca) Apricot kernel oil contains vitamins A,
C, E, and potassium. It helps dry and irritated skin and can be used in lotions, creams,
body butters, massage oils, lip products, bath oils, and soaps. It has a shelf life of 6
months to a year.
Apricot kernel oil isnt expensive, so its often used in bath and body products. Apricot
kernel oil offers many skin-loving benefits and is a good choice to use in products for
mature skin. Its a beautiful golden-yellow oil.
Argan oil (Argania Spinosa) Argan oil is an antioxidant and is antibacterial, anti
fungal, analgesic, and anti-inflammatory. It contains high amounts of vitamin E and
vitamin F (alpha-tocopherol), and it hydrates the skin, helps with anti-aging, reduces
swelling, increases skin elasticity, and soothes dry skin. Try it in lotions, creams,
body butters, and balms. It has a shelf life of 18 months.
Argan oil wont clog pores, so its good in any product you want to use it in.
Avocado oil (Persea Gratissima) Avocado oil contains vitamins A, B1, B2, D, and E;
pantothenic acid; protein; lecithin; and fatty acids. It helps with eczema, psoriasis,
scars, and dryness, and it hydrates skin. Try it in lotions, creams, body butters, facial
creams, balms, bath products, and soaps. It has a shelf life of 12 months.
Avocado oil is inexpensive and easily absorbed and has emollient properties, making it
a great choice for products for mature skin. Its wonderful in shampoo bars and gels.
Babassu oil (Orbignya Oleifera) Some people use this oil for moisturizing in their
lotions, but 10 percent oleic acid isnt much. In fact, its the same as coconut oil. This
oil is used more in soap-making than in bath and body products. It is one of the three
cleansing oils in soap-making and boosts lather. Babassu oil has a shelf life of 1 or 2
years.
Baobab oil (Adansonia Digitata) Baobab oil contains vitamins A, D, E, and F
(alpha-tocopherol). It helps with eczema and psoriasis and moisturizes the skin and
hair. Try it in lotions, face creams, body butters, and hair conditioners. It has a shelf
life of 2 years.
Baobab oil leaves a silky, smooth feeling and wont clog pores.
12
Black cumin seed oil (Nigella Sativa) Black cumin seed oil is anti-inflammatory,
antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, and also a parasiticide. It contains protein;
carbohydrates; essential fatty acids; vitamins A, B1, B2, and C; niacin; and several
minerals, including calcium, potassium, iron, magnesium, selenium, and zinc. It also
helps relieve muscle pain and earaches. Try it in lotions, skin tonics, balms, and pain
creams. It has a shelf life of 6 months. Do refrigerate after opening.
Borage oil (Borago Officinalis) Borage oil is rich in gamma linolenic acid, or GLA.
It helps with eczema, psoriasis, rheumatoid arthritis, sun-damaged skin, dry skin,
and repairing damaged hair. Try it in lotions, creams, balms, hair care products, and
after-sun products. It has a shelf life of 6 months.
BEAUTY BIT
Gamma linolenic acid (GLA) is a polyunsaturated fatty acid, omega-6. Its an
antioxidant and helps inflammation.
Buriti oil (Mauritia Flexuosa) Buriti oil contains vitamin E and is a very high
source of carotenoids (carrots are, too). Its great for rebuilding, hydrating, and mois
turizing the skin, so try it in lotions, creams, and body butters. It has a shelf life of 6
months to 1 year when stored in a cool place.
Buriti oil has a very strong, oily scent and leaves an oily feel to the skin.
Camelina oil (Camelina Sativa) Camelina oil contains essential fatty acids and
natural tocopherols. It helps with repairing cells, eczema, psoriasis, improving skin
elasticity, and protecting hair. Try it in all types of skin care products, shampoos, and
conditioners. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Camelina oil is good for mature or sensitive skin.
Camellia oil (Camellia Oleifera) Camellia oil is anti-aging. It contains vitamins
A, B, and E. It helps moisturize dry skin, fade scars, block UV rays, promote hair
growth, and lighten freckles and age spots. It is a carrier oil and can be used for
aromatherapy as well. Try it in massage oil, facial creams and lotions, body butters,
balms, lip products, and hair and nail care products. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Canola oil (Brassica Campestris) Canola oil contains oleic and linoleic acid. Its used
mainly for moisturizing, so try it in cosmetics, lotions, creams, and soaps. It has a
shelf life of up to 1 year.
13
Cape chestnut oil (Calodendrum Capense) Cape chestnut oil, a.k.a. yangu oil,
contains essential fatty acids and antioxidants. It helps soften, moisturize, and revital
ize skin, and it provides natural UV protection. Try it in facial creams, lotions, hair
conditioners, massage oils, balms, and sun care products. It has a shelf life of 1 year.
Keep refrigerated after opening for longer shelf life.
Castor oil (Ricinus Communis) Castor oil is analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and also
a disinfectant. It contains 90 percent ricinoleic acid. It moisturizes skin and promotes
healing and pain relief. Try it in cosmetics, lip products, skin and hair care products,
sunscreens, perfumes, and both bar and liquid gel soaps. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
IN THE MIRROR
When used in soap-making, castor oil adds conditioning and both creamy and
bubbly lather.
Cherry kernel oil (Prunus Avium) Cherry kernel oil contains vitamins A and E
and is an antioxidant as well as an analgesic. It also contains eleostrearic fatty acid.
Cherry kernel oil is great for moisturizing, so try it in lip balms, body butters, mois
turizers, creams, and cleansers. It has a shelf life of 1 year.
Cherry kernel oil is similar to sweet almond and peach kernel oil and can be easily
substituted for them in formulas. It has a nongreasy feel.
Cocoa butter (Theobroma Cacao) Cocoa butter contains natural antioxidants. It
helps with dry or itchy skin, stretch marks, skin elasticity, holding moisture in the
skin, easing wrinkles, and fading scars and burn marks. Try it in lotions, creams,
balms, body butters, bath products, and soaps. It has a shelf life of up to 5 years.
Cocoa butter is solid at room temperature but quickly melts when it comes in contact
with the skin. It is sometimes used to thicken products. You can buy cocoa butter in
two forms: natural or deodorized.
Coconut oil, fractionated (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Fractionated coconut oil
offers everything regular coconut oil offers and more. It remains liquid until a very
low temperature. Perfumers often use this oil in place of alcohol as a carrier. It also
mixes very well with essential oils. It is colorless and has no odor. Its shelf life is
indefinite.
Fractionated coconut oil is ideal for massage oils because it wont stain the sheets and
it absorbs quickly into the skin, leaving a soft, silky, nongreasy feel.
14
Coffee oil, green (Coffea Arabica) This oil is abstracted from beans that have not
been roasted. It contains fatty acids and sterols. Its also an antioxidant. Coffee oil is
good for dry and sensitive skin, mature skin, damaged hair, chapped lips, eczema, and
psoriasis. Try it in hair conditioners, lip products, creams, lotions, balms, and hot oil
treatments. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Coffee oil, roasted (Coffea Arabica) Roasted coffee oil is the same as green coffee
oil, except the beans have been roasted. Its used the same as green coffee oil and
is also often used in aromatherapy and to scent lotions, creams, and other bath and
body products. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Cranberry seed oil (Vaccinium Macrocarpon) Cranberry seed oil is rich in vitamin
E; vitamin A; and omega-3, -6, and -9 fatty acids. It helps with dry and itchy skin,
eczema, and psoriasis. Try it in lotions, creams, under-eye creams, balms, and lip
products. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Cranberry seed oil is used in many anti-aging facial creams and lotions. It protects
the skin cells from damage caused by free radicals and is also useful in hair care
products to moisturize the hair and scalp and strengthen the hair.
Cucumber seed oil (Cucumis Sativus) Cucumber seed oil is anti-aging. It contains
vitamin E, omega-3, omega-6, and oleic and palmitic acids. It helps with dry hair,
brittle nails, acne, eczema, and psoriasis and diminishes wrinkles and stretch marks.
Try it in lip products, massage oil, sunscreen products, after-sun products, lotions,
creams, facial masks, and balms. It has a shelf life of 1 or 2 years. Refrigeration
lengthens its shelf life.
Emu oil Emu oil is anti-inflammatory, nonirritating, antimicrobial, and hypoal
lergenic. Its a carrier oil, and its healing properties help with inflamed skin; reducing
wrinkles, scars, and stretch marks; moisturizing dry skin; rashes; eczema and
psoriasis; painful muscles; and stimulating skin, hair, and nail growth. Try it in
lotions, creams, salves, and balms. It has a short shelf life, so be sure to always keep
refrigerated.
Emu oil penetrates deep into the skin tissue and is excellent as a carrier oil to bring
other ingredients deep into the skin tissue.
IN THE MIRROR
Meadowfoam seed oil is often used in place of emu oil for those who oppose
using animal products.
15
Evening primrose oil (Oenothera Biennis) Evening primrose oil contains omega-6.
It helps with dry skin, itchy skin, rosacea, acne, and atopic dermatitis and is good for
mature skin. Try it in lotions, facial creams, body butters, and balms. It has a shelf
life of 6 to 12 months.
Flaxseed oil (linseed) Flaxseed oil is anti-aging and contains essential fatty acids
palmitic, oleic, and linoleic. It also contains omega-3 and linolenic acid. Its good for
mature skin and helps with wrinkles, rosacea, acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Try it in
facial scrubs, serums, and soaps. It has a shelf life of up to 1 year. Be sure to refriger
ate after opening.
Flaxseed oil is very fragile and must be blended with stable oils or an antioxidant such
as rosemary resin extract oil at the rate of .1 percent.
Grapeseed oil (Vitis Vinifera) Grapeseed oil, a by-product of wine-making,
contains antioxidants, vitamin E, tocopherols, and essential fatty acid linoleic. It helps
with dry and itchy skin, varicose veins, eczema, psoriasis, and acne. Try it in lotions,
creams, balms, bath products, and soaps. It has a shelf life of 6 months.
Grapeseed oil is inexpensive, which makes it even more desirable for use in bath and
body products!
Hemp seed oil (Cannabis Sativa) and hemp seed butter Hemp seed oil is rich
in vitamins A and E, essential fatty acids, and protein. It helps with dry or irritated
skin, dry hair, dry scalp, skin lesions, and inflamed skin. Try it in hair care products,
lotions, creams, body butters, balms, and soaps. It has a shelf life of 6 months to 1
year. Hydrogenating this oil into a butterlike substance increases the shelf life.
Illipe butter (Shorea Stenoptera) Illipe butter contains essential fatty acids palm
itic, oleic, linoleic, and stearic. It helps with moisturizing mature skin, protects skin
from losing moisture, and helps heal dry or brittle hair and sunburn. Try it in lotions,
creams, body butters, lip products, and balms. Its especially good in foot creams. It
has a shelf life of 2 years.
Illipe butter is often substituted for cocoa butter.
Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis) Jojoba oil contains fatty alcohols; essential fatty
acids oleic, eicosenoic, and docosenoic; and omega-9. It stabilizes other oils; binds
cosmetic powders; and helps with dry skin, wrinkles, acne, removing eye makeup, and
hydrating hair and itchy or dry scalp. Try it in lotions, lipsticks, cosmetics, creams,
scrubs, balms, and shower gels. It has an infinite shelf life and can be added to short
life oils to extend their shelf life.
16
IN THE MIRROR
Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax and makes a wonderful eye makeup remover.
It completely removes mascara and leaves the skin around your eyes well
moisturized.
Karanja oil (Pongamia Glabra) Karanja oil is antiseptic and an insecticide. It helps
with biliousness, eye ailments, itchiness, leucoderma (vitiligo), rheumatism, skin dis
eases, wounds, worms, head lice, fleas, and repelling insects. Try it in sprays, lotions,
soaps, salves, and balms. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Use karanja oil full strength or diluted with sesame oil and fragrance on exposed skin
for outdoor protection. Bugs do not like the smell!
Kiwi seed oil (Actinidia Chinensis) Kiwi seed oil is anti-aging and contains vita
mins C and E, omega-3 fatty acids, potassium, and magnesium. It helps with
moisturizing dry skin, eczema, psoriasis, brittle hair, aging skin, and dry lips. Try it
in anti-aging creams and lotions, eye creams, lip products, salves, balms, hair condi
tioners, and makeup removers. It has a shelf life of 1 year, or longer if refrigerated.
Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica) Kokum butter contains vitamin E and essential
fatty acids oleic, palmitic, linoleic, and stearic. It helps with dry skin. Try it in balms,
body butters, and creams. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Kokum butter is often used in soap-making to add hardness to the bars.
Kukui oil (Aleurites Moluccana) Kukui oil contains vitamins A, C, and E, and
essential fatty acids. It helps with mature skin, acne, scars, wounds, sun- and wind
burns, eczema, psoriasis, damaged skin, dry or brittle hair, and flaky scalp. Try it in
massage oils, lotions, creams, balms, scalp treatment oils, salves, after-sun products,
and hair conditioners. It has a shelf life of 1 year if refrigerated.
Kukui oil is nongreasy and easily absorbs into the skin. Its an expensive oil but is
worth every penny. I highly recommend this oil for cancer patients to rehydrate their
skin.
Lanolin Lanolin contains cholesterol, esters of fatty acids, and molecular alcohols.
It helps with dry, chapped skin, so try it in lipsticks, lotions, and creams. It has a shelf
life of 3 years.
Lanolin is a wax, not a fat or oil. It also forms an emulsion with water thats easily
absorbed by the skin. In lipstick, lanolin helps the color stick to the lips. Lanolin is
very thick and sticky.
17
Macadamia oil (Macadamia Integrifolia) Macadamia oil contains a high amount

of monounsaturated fatty acids. It helps with regeneration of the skin, sunburns,
scars, wounds, irritated skin, fine lines, and softening the skin. Try it in lotions,
creams, body butters, shaving creams, balms, massage oils, and lip products. It has a
shelf life of 1 or 2 years.
Mango butter (Mangifera Indica) Mango butter contains antioxidants, fatty acids,
and stearic acid. It helps with dry, chapped skin; eczema; and psoriasis. Try it in body
butters, creams, lotions, salves, balms, and soaps. It has a shelf life of 2 or 3 years.
Manketti oil (Ricinodendron Rautanenii) Manketti oil is rich in nutrients and is
an antioxidant. It contains vitamin C and eleostrearic acid and is great for sun protec
tion and hair care. Try it in lotions, creams, balms, body butters, shampoos and con
ditioners, and sun protection products. It has a shelf life of 1 year.
Maracuja oil (Passiflora Incarnata) Maracuja oil is anti-inflammatory, antispas
modic, and antibacterial and contains vitamins A, B, and C. It helps dry and sensitive
skin, eczema, psoriasis, dry hair, and dermatitis, and also relieves pain and balances
sebum. Try it in lip care products, hair conditioners, lotions, creams, balms, and hot
oil treatments. It has a shelf life of 1 year.
PRETTY POINTER
Maracuja oil is good for mature or sensitive skin.
Marula oil (Sclerocarya Birrea) Marula oil contains fatty acids oleic, linoleic, alpha
linolenic, palmitic, and arachidonic. It is an antioxidant and contains tocopherols,
sterols, and flavonoids. It helps with conditioning and moisturizing the hair and scalp.
Marula oil is often added to cosmetics, such as eye shadows, for its moisturizing
properties. Try it in hair treatments, conditioners, lotions, body butters, eye shadows,
and lip treatments. It has a shelf life of 1 year. Refrigeration extends its shelf life.
Marula oil is easily absorbed into the skin.
Meadowfoam seed oil (Limnanthes Alba) Meadowfoam seed oil contains fatty
acids and is an antioxidant. It is a scent binder and a carrier oil; extends the shelf
life of other oils; and helps with moisturizing, UV protection, reducing wrinkles,
chapped lips, and damaged hair. Try it in lotions; creams; salves; body butters; shav
ing creams; hot oil hair conditioners; pain creams; and really any and all bath and
body products, hair products, and cosmetics. It has an infinite shelf life.
18
Meadowfoam seed oil is a nongreasy oil. When blended with shorter shelf life oils,
their shelf life is extended. Meadowfoam seed oil penetrates deep into body tissues,
so it makes a wonderful carrier oil to deliver other ingredients. You can use meadow
foam in place of emu or ostrich oil in pain creams.
Moringa seed oil (Moringa Oleifera) Also called ben oil, moringa seed oil is said
to be antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. It contains vitamins A and C and fatty acids
oleic, palmitic, stearic, and behenic. It helps with moisturizing and conditioning. Try
it in lotions, creams, balms, body butters, and hair care products. It has a shelf life of
up to 5 years.
Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia) Mowrah butter contains essential fatty acids
oleic, palmitic, linoleic, and stearic. It helps heal and moisturize burns and dry,
chapped skin. Try it in lotions, creams, body butters, balms, salves, and lip products.
It has a shelf life of 1 year.
Mowrah butter has wonderful healing properties. It gives your lotions, creams, lip
balms, and lipsticks a lovely creamy feeling.
IN THE MIRROR
Recently mowrah butter has become very difficult to buy due to bad crop output.
I have found the gently refined version but not the ultra refined, which I prefer
to use.
Neem seed oil (Azadirachta Indica) Neem seed oil is antiseptic, antifungal, anti
bacterial, antiviral, and dermatological, and an analgesic and insecticide. It helps with
fleas, lice, wounds, and insect stings. Try it in shampoos, salves, and sprays. It has a
shelf life of 2 years.
Neem seed oil kills fleas and head lice but is nontoxic to humans and animals, and
therefore very safe to use on children and pets. You can also use neem cakes in your
garden to keep out ground bugs. Mix neem seed oil with water to spray your plants.
PRETTY POINTER
By adding neem seed oil to shampoo, you have a kid-friendly, lice-killing
shampoo thats a safer way to kill the lice without using a commercially prepared
insecticide product. Add 15 to 20 drops of neem seed oil to 2 ounces of your
regular shampoo.
19
Olive oil (Olea Europaea) Olive oil contains monounsaturated fat, vitamin E,
phenols, and omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. It helps with wrinkles; dry, brittle hair and
nails; and mature or sensitive skin. Try it in lotions, creams, and balms. It has a shelf
life of 1 year.
This oil is one of the base oils soap-makers use.
Olive oil pomace Olive oil pomace works a lot like jojoba, shea, or kukui nut oil
and can retain moisture in the skin without blocking the skins ability to breathe.
Products in the olive oil family are great to use in many bath and body products,
not just for soap! Olive oil pomace is very good for mature, sensitive skin. Its even
reported to be a disinfectant and to have wound-healing properties. It has a shelf life
of 1 year.
Ostrich oil Ostrich oil contains omega-3, -6, and -9 fatty acids; vitamin E; and
amino acids. It helps heal dry skin, rheumatoid pain, dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis,
burns, and bed sores. Try it in salves, lotions, creams, and balms. Be sure to keep this
one refrigerated; it has a shelf life of 12 to 18 months, longer if frozen.
There isnt a lot of difference between emu and ostrich oil.
IN THE MIRROR
The Romans and Egyptians regularly used ostrich oil to moisturize their skin.
Cleopatra is said to have used ostrich oil.
Palm oil (Elaeis Guineensis) Palm oil comes from the meat of the fruit and contains
saturated and unsaturated fats. Its mainly used for moisturizing. Palm oil separates
like milk and has to be completely melted and then stirred before each use. Try it in
lotions, creams, and balms. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Bleached and deodorized palm oil is widely used for soap-making as the base oil
because of its stability. It is solid in cool or cold temperatures.
Palm oil, red unrefined Red palm oil contains two of the most important types
of vitamin E and a high amount of carotene. It helps with dry skin, wrinkles, and
general moisturizing. Try it in lotions, creams, scrubs, balms, lip products, and soaps.
It has a shelf life of 2 years.
In Africa, red palm oil is the main cooking oil. Red palm oil separates, but because
its a hard oil, you cant just stir it to mix. Youll have to first melt the entire container
and then stir it well before use. Sometimes you can find red palm butter, which is
20
actually homogenized red palm oil. This is much easier to work with because it wont
separate. When you use red palm oil, all your products will have a soft apricot/yellow
color. Some people like the color and some dont.
Papaya seed oil (Carica Papaya) Papaya seed oil contains omega-3 and -6 essential
fatty acids. It helps with dry skin, dry or brittle hair, wrinkles, acne, eczema, and
psoriasis. Try it in lotions, creams, hair conditioners, and hot oil treatments. It has a
Passion fruit oil (Passiflora Incarnate) Passion fruit oil contains vitamins A, B,
and C. It helps with acne and strengthening skin tissue. Try it in facial washes,
lotions, creams, balms, salves, and cosmetics. It has a shelf life of 1 or 2 years.
Peach kernel oil (Prunus Persica) Peach kernel oil contains vitamins A, B, and E.
It is a carrier oil and helps with dry or mature skin. It soaks quickly into the skin,
leaving the skin feeling soft and moisturized. Try it in lotions, creams, balms, and
cosmetics. Its also great for massage oils and aromatherapy use. It has a shelf life of
2 years.
Peach kernel oil is nongreasy.
Peanut oil (Arachis Hypogaea) Peanut oil contains vitamin E. It helps with dry and
mature skin, eczema, and psoriasis. Try it in lotions, creams, and soaps. It has a shelf
life of 6 months to 1 year.
SAFETY FIRST
If you use peanut oil in any of your products, be sure to label it clearly so anyone
with a peanut allergy will know not to use it.
Pequi oil (Caryocar Braziliensis) Pequi oil is anti-aging and contains vitamin A. It
helps with dry skin, eczema, psoriasis, frizzy and brittle hair, and general moisturiz
ing. Try it in lotions, creams, balms, salves, hair conditioners, and hot oil treatments.
It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Perilla seed oil (Perilla Ocymoides) Perilla seed oil contains omega-3 fatty acids
and is an antiseptic. It helps with acne, so try it in facial creams, lotions, scrubs, and
balms. It has a shelf life of 1 or 2 years.
Pomegranate seed oil (Punica Granatum) Pomegranate seed oil is anti
inflammatory and is an antioxidant. It contains fatty acids oleic, palmitic, linolenic,
punicic, and stearic. Its good for moisturizing dry skin, helps with skin elasticity, and
balances skin pH. Try it in facial lotions and creams, body lotions, body butters, and
balms. It has a shelf life of 6 months to 1 year, and longer if kept refrigerated.
21
Poppy seed oil (Papaver Somniferum) Poppy seed oil contains essential fatty acids
linoleic, oleic, and palmitic. Use in hair care products, creams, and balms. It has a
shelf life of 5 months to 1 year, or longer if kept refrigerated.
Poppy seed oil contains similar properties to hemp seed oil and can be used as a
substitute.
Pumpkin seed oil (Cucurbita Pepo) Pumpkin seed oil contains omega-3 and -6
fatty acids; vitamins A, C, and E; and zinc. It helps with rosacea, eczema, psoriasis,
burns, wounds, and scars. Try it in lotions, creams, salves, and balms. It has a shelf
life of 1 year.
Unrefined pumpkin seed oil is a very dark color, while the refined oil is almost clear.
This oil is very rich, so a little goes a long way in your products.
Red raspberry seed oil (Rubus Idaeus) Red raspberry seed oil contains vitamins
A and E and omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. It is anti-inflammatory and helps with dry
skin, eczema, psoriasis, and sun protection. Try it in lotions, creams, lip products,
and balms. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
Red raspberry seed oil can also be used to extend the shelf life of other oils when
mixed in.
Rice bran oil (Oryza Sativa) Rice bran oil contains gamma oryzanol. Its good
for moisturizing and for use in infusing herbs. Try it in lotions, under-eye creams,
cleansing creams, and baby products. It has a shelf life of 1 year.
Rice bran oil feels nice on the skin and is very mild. Its an excellent moisturizer and
gives soothing protection to skin.
Rosehip seed oil (Rosa Rubiginosa) Rosehip seed oil contains fatty acids and has
anti-aging properties. It renews skin cells, repairs damaged tissue, fades age spots,
and helps with eczema and general moisturizing. Try it in facial lotions, creams, and
soaps. It has a shelf life of 12 to 18 months if refrigerated.
IN THE MIRROR
Rosehip seed oil is pressed from wild roses. It is an excellent choice to use in your
eczema and anti-aging products.
Safflower oil, high oleic (Carthamus Tinctorius) High oleic safflower oil contains
vitamin E (tocopherols, essential fatty acids oleic, palmitic, and linoleic). It also
contains lecithin and carotenoids. It helps moisturize dry skin and hair, so try it in
creams, lotions, hair conditioners, and balms. It has a shelf life of 2 years.
22
This would be a great addition to all your body products. If you dont have the high
oleic type of safflower oil, be sure to add rosemary oleo resin to extend its shelf life.
It is also said that this oil used in your diet will help get rid of belly fat.
Sal butter (Shorea Robusta) Sal butter contains fatty acids oleic, palmitic, linoleic,
and stearic. It softens and moisturizes skin and promotes healing from sun and wind
damage. Try it in stick balms, lotions, body butters, and soaps. It has a shelf life of
1 year.
Sal butter is very stable and wont go rancid quickly.
Sesame seed oil (Sesamum Indicum) Sesame seed oil contains vitamins A and E,
plus several essential proteins. It is antibacterial, antioxidant, and antifungal. It helps
heal dry skin, psoriasis, dry scalp, dandruff, skin fungi, athletes foot, acne, mild
scrapes and cuts, and diaper irritation. Try it in facial washes, shower gels, lotions,
creams, salves, balms, conditioners, and massage oils. It has a shelf life of 1 year.
Sesame seed oil is resistant to clouding at low temperatures.
Shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) Shea butter contains vitamins A, E, and F
and is anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial. It helps with dry skin, burns, sores, scars,
dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, dandruff, and stretch marks. Try it in lotions, creams,
body butters, shaving creams, lip products, and soaps. It has a shelf life of 1 or 2 years
but will last longer if refrigerated. It can also be frozen.
Shea butter is easily absorbed into the skin and does not clog pores. It can help protect
against the suns UV rays. Shea butter can be used in just about all bath and body
products.
IN THE MIRROR
The extraction process for shea butter can be quite time-consuming. It can take
20 to 30 hours to extract just 2 pounds of shea butter!
Strawberry oil (Fragaria Anassa) Strawberry oil contains vitamins A, E, and F,

and omega-3 and -4 fatty acids. It has anti-aging properties and helps with fine lines
and dry skin. Try it in creams, lotions, salves, balms, and body butters. It has a shelf
life of 2 years.
Strawberry oil is easily absorbed into the skin and has a light, pleasant fragrance.
23
Sunflower oil, high oleic (Helianthus Annuus) High oleic sunflower oil contains
vitamins A, D, and E as well as essential fatty acids. It soothes and moisturizes skin
and wont clog pores. Try it in creams, lotions, baby products, balms, and soaps. It has
a shelf life of 2 years.
This is our favorite oil for infusing herbs.
Tamanu oil (Calophyllum Inophyllum) Tamanu oil is antibacterial, antifungal, and
anti-inflammatory and an antioxidant. It contains essential fatty acids oleic, palmitic,
linoleic, and stearic. Its healing properties help with skin ulcers, rashes, boils, cuts,
sores, acne, scars, ringworm, athletes foot, diabetic sores, diaper rash, insect bites,
and psoriasis. Try in salves and balms, and even by itself. It has a shelf life of 6
months to 1 year.
Tucuma butter (Astrocaryum Tucuma) Tucuma butter is an antioxidant. It contains vitamin A and essential fatty acids omega-3, -6, and -9. Try it in creams, lotions,
body butters, conditioners, masks, hair care products, and lip products. It has a shelf
life of 2 years from its production date.
Turkey red oil (Sulfated Ricinus Communis) Turkey red oil, which gets its name
from its red color, contains triglycerides and fatty acids. Its the same as castor oil
except it hasnt been refined. Add this oil to your bath oils and bath bombs. It has a
This is the only oil that will completely disperse in water. That means that when used
in bath products, the oil will combine with the water in the tub and wont leave an
oily residue or ring in the bathtub.
Ucuuba butter (Virola Sebifera L.) Ucuuba butter, which is so dark it looks black,
contains essential fatty acids. It repels insects and helps with dry skin. Try it in black
soap, balms, and lotions. It has a shelf life of 2 years from its production date.
Walnut oil (Juglans Regia) Walnut oil has great anti-aging properties. It helps
soothe and moisturize skin, is good for mature skin, and smoothes wrinkles and fine
lines. Try it in anti-aging products, those for mature skin, lip balms, eye creams, and
lotions. It has a shelf life of 1 year.
PRETTY POINTER
Use walnut oil at 10 to 15 percent of total product weight in anti-aging and skin
toning products.
24
Watermelon oil (Citrullus Vulgaris) Watermelon oil, also called kalahari oil, is a
stable oil thats very light in texture. It contains essential fatty acids oleic and linoleic
plus zinc and iron. It is also a carrier oil. Watermelon oil helps balance the oil the
skin produces, making it a good ingredient to use in formulations for those with oily
skin. It does not clog pores. Try it in hair care products, facial creams, lotions, baby
products, and body butters. Its shelf life is indefinite.
Watermelon oil can restore elasticity to the skin. All skin types can use it. It is not
greasy at all, yet it is very moisturizing.
Wheat germ oil (Triticum Vulgare) Wheat germ oil contains vitamins A, D,
and E. It helps with dry skin, eczema, dermatitis, wrinkles, and fine lines. Try it in
facial creams and lotions, lip products, body creams and lotions, balms, and body
butters. It has a shelf life of 1 year.
t Learning about different oils helps you formulate your own products. Before you
know it, you will be formulating like a pro!
t Choosing which butters or oils you want to use can be a challenge, but with a little
knowledge of what each butter or oil does, your decision-making is easier.
t Have certain needs? You can find an oil or butter that is best for them.
All About
Essential Oils
Chapter
In This Chapter
t Skin-soothing essential oils

t Scenting your home and your favorite lotions, creams, and soaps
t Going green with cleansing essential oils
Essential oils have many uses. You can use them in air fresheners, bath products,
candles, creams and lotions, foot baths, hair care products, massage oil, room air
disinfectants and vaporizers, and more. Theyre even used in many beauty products!
When MRSA and other super bugs came on the health scene recently, many people
became very worried. But after much research, there seems to be information on
essential oils being used to stop dangerous germs some 65 years ago. It seems that
different bacteria and viruses can become resistant to medicine, but essential oils have
so many different properties, bacteria cannot become resistant to them.
Not only can you use an essential oil spray to rid a room of illness-causing germs, you
can also use a diffuser fitted over a lightbulb to infuse the room with the essential oil.
Simply put a few drops of the pure essential oil on a diffuser, fit it on the bulb, and
the heat of the bulb will evaporate the oil into the room.
Note: The information in this chapter isnt meant to take the place of professional medical
help. Its only a guideline of known uses for essential oils.
How Much Essential Oil to Use?

When including essential oils in your beauty products, do not use them as if they were
fragrance oils. Because essential oils are distilled from the roots, bark, flower, stems,
and leaves of plants, they contain the true essence of the plant theyre derived from.
26
That makes them very potent, and they can be irritating if used in a strong amount.
We recommend you dont use more than 2.5 percent of the total finished weight of
your recipe.
For example: if the total weight of a batch of cream is 32 ounces (907.2 grams), the
most essential oil or blend of essential oils youd want to use is .8 ounce (22.7 grams).
If youre using essential oils in candles, you can use the recommended amount for the
type of candle youre making.
Its also recommended that you dont use essential oils on babies under the age of 3
months, and many of these oils cannot be used on children or pregnant and nursing
women at all. Throughout the chapter, we indicate which oils can or cannot be used
in these situations.
Essential Oils for Making Beauty Products

Lets take a look at the essential oils you can use when making your natural beauty
products.
Anise (Pimpinella Anisum) This brown but sometimes clear essential oil is anti
spasmodic and is commonly used for muscle aches, arthritis, cramps, nervous tension,
depression, rheumatism, colds, and flu. It has a clove or licorice scent.
Balsam of Peru (Myroxylon Pereirae) This dark brown essential oil is commonly
used in mens colognes and for chapped hands and feet. It relieves the itch of eczema
and dermatitis, helps coughing and rashes, and soothes stress. It smells very sweet and
earthy.
Basil, sweet (Ocimum Basilicum) This clear essential oil is antispasmodic, anti
inflammatory, analgesic, and antibacterial. Its commonly used for sinusitis, colds, flu,
coughs, insect bites, and insect repellent. Basil has an herbal scent.
BEAUTY BIT
An analgesic reduces or eliminates pain.
Bay laurel (Laurus Nobilis) This clear essential oil is commonly used for aches and
pains, sprains, bruises, hair loss, oily hair, dandruff, colds, and flu. Bay laurel has an
earthy scent. Do not use if you are pregnant or nursing.
Bay rum (Pimenta Racemosa) This dark yellow essential oil is used for aches and
pains, sprains, general hair care, dandruff, oily hair, and mens cologne. It has a spicy
scent.
Chapter 3:All About Essential Oils
27
Benzoin (Styrax Benzoin) Brown in color, this essential oil is commonly used to
help acne, eczema and psoriasis, arthritis, bronchitis, coughing, and dry skin. It has a
creamy vanilla scent.
Bergamot (Citrus Bergamia) This essential oil is a yellow-green color. Its antiseptic
and antifungal and is commonly used for acne, oily skin conditions, abscesses, boils,
cold sores, itching, depression, psoriasis, and stress. Bergamot is a photo-sensitizer,
which means it reacts with sunlight. Be sure to use the bergaptene-free version.
Bergamot has a citrus with a touch of floral scent.
BEAUTY BIT
If an essential oil is a photo-sensitizer, it decreases the skins ability to tolerate
ultraviolet light. This can cause itching, inflammation, and burning.
Cajeput (Melaleuca Leucadendron) This light yellow essential oil is antiseptic,

antifungal, antiviral, and antibacterial. Its commonly used for acne, coughing,
asthma, bronchitis, sinusitis, and aches. This is another melaleuca like tea tree,
niaouli, and rosalina. It has a fruity scent.
Camphor (Cinnamomum Camphora) This deep yellow essential oil is analgesic,
antiseptic, and antispasmodic. Commonly used for stiff muscles and inflammation,
it has a pungent, camphorous scent. Always use very sparingly. Do not use if you are
pregnant, suffer from epilepsy, and/or have asthma. Do not use it on babies.
Carrot seed (Daucus Carota) This golden yellow essential oil is commonly used
to help mature skin and wrinkles, thicken hair, soothe eczema and psoriasis, and help
scars. It doesnt smell like carrots! Its earthy and a little harsh.
Cassia (Cinnamonum Cassia) Cassia is a yellow-brown oil most often used for
indigestion, colds, flu, and fragrance. It has the sweet woodsy smell of cinnamon. Do
not use on the skin or products for the skin.
SAFETY FIRST
Do not use cassia (Cinnamomum Cassia) in topical blends because its an irritant
and sensitizer. This is one that would be good to use in the diffuser instead. And
dont confuse it with cinnamon bark. Cassia, also known as Chinese cinnamon, is
a very strong antimicrobial.
Cedarwood, Atlas (Cedrus Atlantica) This light yellow essential oil is commonly
used for acne, dandruff, eczema, psoriasis, alopecia, oily skin, oily scalp, oily hair,
mens cologne, arthritis, bronchitis, and stress. It has the scent of fresh cedar trees.
Do not use if you are pregnant. Do not use on children.
28
Chamomile, German (Matricaria Recutita) A dark blue color, this essential oil is
anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic. Its commonly used for eczema; psoriasis; itchy,
dry, and flaky skin; boils; wounds; sores; insect bites; dermatitis; arthritis; sprains;
and headaches. It has an herbal scent.
Chamomile, Roman (Anthemis Nobilis) This light blue essential oil is anti
inflammatory and antispasmodic. Its commonly used for eczema, psoriasis, dry skin,
wounds, sores, boils, insect bites, dermatitis, arthritis, and headaches. It has an herbal
scent. Use this type of chamomile for children and the elderly.
Cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum Zeylanicum) This yellow-brown essential oil is
antibacterial and antifungal. Its commonly used for fragrancing and in room sprays
to kill airborne germs, as well as for lice, scabies, and stress. It has a strong, spicy
cinnamon scent. Do not use in topical products.
Cinnamon bark is much stronger than cinnamon leaf.
Cinnamon leaf (Cinnamomum Zeylanicum) Yellow-brown cinnamon leaf
essential oil is a milder version of cinnamon bark essential oil. Its antibacterial and
antifungal. Use it in room sprays to kill airborne germs, lice, and scabies, and to ease
stress. It smells spicy, just like cinnamon. Do not use if you are pregnant or nursing.
Clary sage (Salvia Sclaria) This light yellow essential oil is analgesic and anti
spasmodic and is commonly used for asthma, coughing, and stress. Clary sage has an
earthy herbal scent. Do not use if you are pregnant or nursing.
Clove bud (Eugenia Caryophyllus) This yellow-brown essential oil is used for
room sprays, mens colognes, sprains, toothaches, asthma, and bronchitis. It has a
warm, spicy scent. Use with caution; it can be irritating to the skin.
Combava petitgrain (Citrus Hystrix) This very pale yellow essential oil is anti
infectious and antiseptic. Its commonly used for acne and oily skin. It has a woodsy
and slightly floral scent. Do not use on sensitive skin.
IN THE MIRROR
Twelve essential oils are mentioned in the Bible: cassia, cedarwood, cistus,
cypress, frankincense, myrrh, galbanum, hyssop, myrtle, onycha, sandalwood,
and spikenard.
Coriander (Coriandrum Sativum) This light yellow essential oil is anti

inflammatory and is commonly used for arthritis, blackheads, oily skin, aches, and
fatigue. It has a spicy and woodsy scent.
29
Cypress (Cupressus Sempervirens) This light yellow essential oil is antiseptic,

antispasmodic, and a deodorant. Its commonly used for eczema, varicose veins, and
oily skin. Cypress has a woodsy scent.
Elemi (Canarium Luzonicum) This very pale yellow essential oil is antifungal,
antiseptic, and analgesic. Its commonly used for warts, dry or mature skin, dermatitis,
scars, coughing, wounds, acne, and eczema. Because of its mildness, it would be good
to use in deodorants. It has a spicy and citrus scent.
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Globulus) This essential oil is clear and has analgesic,
antifungal, antiviral, and antibacterial properties. Its commonly used for blackheads,
acne, blemishes, cold sores, flu, bronchitis, and sinusitis. It has a camphorous scent.
Never take eucalyptus internally.
PRETTY POINTER
You can make a candle using eucalyptus essential oil and burn it for 10 minutes to
kill all the germs, bacteria, and mold in the air.
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Radiata) This almost-clear essential oil is analgesic, anti

fungal, antiviral, and antibacterial. Its commonly used for room sprays, blackheads,
acne, blemishes, cold sores, flu, fever, sinusitis, and bronchitis. This oil has all the
therapeutic benefits of Eucalyptus Globulus but is a more gentle and pleasant oil to use.
Eucalyptus has a strong camphorous scent. Never take eucalyptus internally.
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Smithii) This very pale yellow essential oil is analgesic,
antifungal, antiviral, and antibacterial. Its commonly used for room sprays,
blackheads, acne, blemishes, cold sores, flu, bronchitis, and sinusitis. This one is
the mildest of all the eucalyptus types and is suggested for use in children. It has a
camphorous scent. Never take eucalyptus internally.
Eucalyptus, lemon (Eucalyptus Citriodora) This very pale yellow essential oil is
analgesic, antifungal, antiviral, and antibacterial. Its commonly used for room sprays,
blackheads, acne, blemishes, cold sores, flu, bronchitis, and sinusitis. Its very similar
to Eucalyptus Globulus and has a camphorous and lemon scent. Never take eucalyptus
internally.
Fir needle (Abies Alba) This very pale yellow essential oil is analgesic, antiseptic,
and a deodorant. Its commonly used for arthritis, bronchitis, flu, colds, and aches. It
has a woodsy scent.
Fir needle, Canada (Abies Canadensis) This light yellow essential oil is analgesic,
antiseptic, and a deodorant. Its commonly used for arthritis, bronchitis, flu, colds,
aches, deodorants, and room sprays. It has a woodsy scent.
30
Frankincense (Boswellia Carteri) This light yellow essential oil is commonly used
for dry and mature skin, wrinkles, blemishes, anxiety, scars, stretch marks, bronchitis,
asthma, coughing, and wounds. It has a spicy, balsamic scent.
Galbanum (Ferula Galbaniflua) This clear essential oil is commonly used for
inflammation, wounds, dry or mature skin, wrinkles, scars, abscesses, bronchitis,
acne, cuts, lice, stretch marks, and muscle aches. It smells very earthy, balsamic, and
spicy.
Geranium (Pelargonium Graveolens) This light yellow essential oil, also known
as rose geranium, is commonly used for pain relief, wounds, acne, dull skin, lice,
menopause, cellulite, and oily skin. It has a floral scent.
Ginger (Zingiber Officinale) This light yellow essential oil is antibacterial and
analgesic. Its commonly used for a warming oil, pain relief, muscle aches, and arthri
tis. It has a very warm earthy and spicy scent.
Grapefruit (Citrus Paradisi) This light yellow essential oil is used for dull skin and
to eliminate water weight and cellulite. It has a citrus fragrance.
Helichrysum (Helichrysum Italicum) This light yellow essential oil is antifungal,
antiviral, and antibacterial. Its commonly used for scars, acne, dermatitis, abscesses,
boils, burns, cuts, wounds, eczema, and irritated skin. It also promotes cell growth.
It has an herbal fragrance.
PRETTY POINTER
Helichrysum Italicum has become very expensive. A cheaper version, which works
just as well, is Helichrysum Gymnocephalum.
Jasmine (Jasminum Grandiflorum) This dark brown essential oil is antiseptic and
relieves muscle cramps. Its commonly used for dry skin and dermatitis, depression,
and sensitive skin, as well as pain and cramping. Jasmine essential oil is very expen
sive, so use it sparingly. The essential oil smells like the flower.
Juniper berry (Juniperus Communis) This clear essential oil is antiseptic, anti
spasmodic, and an astringent. Its commonly used for acne, blocked pores, eczema,
psoriasis, inflammations, colds, and flu. It has a woodsy scent.
Labdanum (Cistus Ladaniferus) This clear essential oil, also known as rose of
Sharon and citrus oil, is antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral. Its commonly used
for wrinkles, mature skin, and room sprays. It has a citrus scent.
Lavender (Lavandula Officinalis) This very light yellow essential oil has all the
goodies of the other lavenders. Its analgesic, antispasmodic, antiviral, antibacterial,
31
and antifungal. Its mainly used for inflammations, acne, abscesses, blisters, boils,
asthma, muscle aches, lice, strains, sprains, vertigo, dry skin, and eczema and other
skin problems. It has an herbal floral scent. Do not use on children or the elderly.
Lavender, Bulgarian (Lavender Angustifolia) This very pale yellow essential oil is
analgesic, antispasmodic, antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal. Its commonly used
for inflammations, acne, abscesses, blisters, boils, asthma, muscle aches, lice, strains,
sprains, vertigo, dry skin, and eczema and other skin problems. This is the lavender
I use to make bath oil for my ADHD grandson; it soothes him and helps him sleep. It
is safe enough to use on children and the elderly. Do not use on babies younger than 3 months.
Lavender, super (Lavandula Hybrid var. Super French) This very light yellow
essential oil is antispasmodic and is commonly used for wounds, cuts, bruises, derma
titis, scars, scabies, insect repellent, insect bites, hypertension, depression, headaches,
asthma, stretch marks, cramps, allergies, coughing, and sores. It has a floral scent.
Lavendin, grosso (Lavandula Hybrid var. Grosso French) This very light yellow
essential oil is antiseptic as well as being a stimulant. Its commonly used for inflam
mations, acne, abscesses, blisters, boils, asthma, muscle aches, lice, strains, sprains,
vertigo, dry skin, and eczema and other skin problems. It has a sweet herbal and
floral scent.
Lemon (Citrus Limonum) This dark yellow essential oil is antineuralgic, antirheu
matic, antiseptic, antibacterial, insecticidal, and an astringent. Its commonly used for
warts, flu, colds, corns, pimples, oily skin, athletes foot, and varicose veins. It has a
lemon fragrance. Lemon can be a sensitizer.
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Citratus) This yellow essential oil is anti-inflammatory.
Its commonly used for muscle aches, enlarged pores, oily skin, athletes foot, insect
repellent, stress, and scabies. It has an earthy lemon scent.
Lemongrass, East Indian (Cymbopogon Flexuosus) This yellow essential oil is
commonly used for muscle aches, enlarged pores, oily skin, athletes foot, insect
repellent, stress, and scabies. It has an earthy lemon scent.
Lime (Citrus Aurantifolia) This light green essential oil is typically used for mens
cologne, colds, flu, asthma, and acne and pimples. It has a fruity lime scent. Lime can
be a sensitizer.
PRETTY POINTER
Blending lemon and lime essential oils makes a delightful fragrance blend.
Litsea cubeba (Litsea Cubeba) This light yellow essential oil is commonly used for
acne, oily skin, and excess sweat. Do not use straight on the skin; add to a carrier oil.
32
Mandarin, red (Citrus Reticulate) This green essential oil is antiseptic. Its com
monly used for muscle cramps, acne, pimples, wrinkles, scars, and stress. It has a
sweet citrus scent.
Manuka (Leptospermum Scoparium) This clear essential oil is antibacterial, anti
fungal, and antiviral. Its typically used for oily skin, insect bites, cuts, sores, athletes
foot, ringworm, colds, flu, sinusitis, itching, cold sores, and pimples. Its similar in
properties to tea tree oil and can be substituted for it in formulations. It has been
proven effective against both strep and staph infections. Manuka has an earthy, bal
samic scent.
Marjoram, Spanish (Thymus Mastichina) This light yellow essential oil is analge
sic and antiseptic. Its commonly used for muscle cramps, swollen joints, bronchitis,
coughing, sprains, and stress. It has an herbal scent.
Marjoram, sweet (Origanum Majorana) This pale yellow essential oil is an anti
septic. Its commonly used for muscle cramps, swollen joints, bronchitis, coughing,
rheumatism, sprains, and stress. It has an herbal scent. Do not use if you are pregnant.
Melissa (Melissa Officinalis) This yellow essential oil is useful against various
strains of flu virus. Its also used for dermatitis, pimples, infected teeth, room sprays,
colognes, insect bites, bronchitis, coughing, depression, insomnia, menstrual cramps,
asthma, anxiety, and eczema. It has an herbal scent.
Myrrh (Commiphora Myrrha) This brown essential oil is an antiseptic, astringent,
disinfectant, and deodorant. Its commonly used for infected teeth, infected gums,
eczema, sore throat, athletes foot, jock itch, ringworm, bronchitis, dry skin, itching,
and hemorrhoids. This is the most amazing oil or powder to have around the house.
It has an earthy and balsamic fragrance.
IN THE MIRROR
Evidence of herbal perfumes was found in King Tutankhamens tomb.
Myrtle (Myrtus Communis) This light yellow essential oil very similar to eucalyp
tus is antibacterial, antiseptic, and an astringent. Its commonly used for room sprays,
cough, sore throat, and asthma. This is a very mild essential oil that can be used to
treat children and the elderly. It has a sweet but camphorous scent.
Neroli (Citrus Aurantium) This dark brown essential oil is a deodorant and an
antiseptic. Its commonly used for acne, depression, mature skin, scars, stretch marks,
stress, and as a muscle relaxant. Because its so gentle, its good to use for all skin
types. It has a sweet citrus scent.
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Niaouli (Melaleuca Quinquenervia) This clear essential oil is commonly used to

help oily skin, aches, sore throats, colds, coughing, cuts, stretch marks, scars, bron
chitis, and acne. Niaouli is a melaleuca and can be substituted for tea tree oil. It has a
harsh earthy and musty scent.
Orange, bitter (Citrus Sinensis) This yellow-orange essential oil is an antiseptic
and is commonly used for room sprays, flu, colds, infected gums, stress, and as a local
disinfectant. This oil smells like oranges. Bitter orange is a citrus and can be a sensitizer
when used on the skin.
Oregano (Origanum Vulgare) This light yellow essential oil is an antiseptic. Use it
for room sprays and disinfecting surfaces. Oregano has a strong, harsh, herbal scent.
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon Martini) This light yellow essential oil is antifungal and
antiviral. It stimulates cellular growth, helps dry skin, and regulates sebum. It has a
floral scent. Do not use if you are pregnant or nursing. Do not use on children or anyone
who has medical conditions.
Patchouli (Pogostemon Patchouli) This dark brown essential oil is an antiseptic,
astringent, and deodorant, and is antifungal. Its commonly used for scars, dry skin,
acne, eczema, scalp disorders, athletes foot, dermatitis, oily skin, mature skin, insect
repellent, and hair care. Patchouli oil has a sweet earthy and woodsy scent.
Pepper, black (Piper Nigrum) This clear essential oil is analgesic and antiseptic.
Its commonly used for muscle aches, arthritis, and muscle cramps. Its also great to
use in a massage oil. Black pepper has a spicy peppercorn scent.
Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) This light yellow essential oil has great pain
relieving properties. It can be used for muscle aches, cramps, bruises, joint pain, colic,
nausea, asthma, fever, headaches, vertigo, sinusitis, and scabies. Use it in pain cream,
room spray, and massage oil. It smells like very strong peppermint. Do not use if you
are pregnant.
Petitgrain, bigarade (Citrus Aurantium) This light yellow essential oil is an
antiseptic and deodorant. Use it as a room spray and to help acne and oily skin. Its
made from the leaves of the bitter orange and can be used in place of neroli. It smells
earthy and floral.
Petitgrain, clementine (Citrus Clementine) This light yellow essential oil is com
monly used for oily skin, acne, and stress. Clementine petitgrain has the same uses
and properties of bigarade petitgrain, but has a much softer and sweeter woodsy and
citrus scent.
Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) This clear essential oil is antiseptic, antibacterial, and a
deodorant. Its commonly used for disinfecting surfaces, cough relief, colds, and flu.
It has the woodsy scent of pine trees. Pine oil can be irritating to the skin.
34
Ravensara (Agathophyllum Aromatica) This light yellow essential oil is commonly

used along with tamanu (Calophyllum Inophyllum) oil for shingles. It smells earthy and
woodsy. Do not use if you are pregnant. Do not use on children.
Rosalina (Melaleuca Ericifolia) This yellow essential oil is antiseptic and antibac
terial. Its commonly used for muscle cramps. If you like rosewood, youll also like
rosalina. Rosalina is also known as lavender tea tree oil.
Rose, otto (Rosa Damascena) This deep red essential oil is commonly used for fra
grances, mature skin, dry skin, depression, menopause, and eczema. This is the queen
of fragrancesand has the price tag to go along with it! It has a strong rose scent.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) This green essential oil is analgesic, antimi
crobial, and an antioxidant. Its commonly used for muscle cramps, dandruff, hair
loss, arthritis, muscle aches, neuralgia, and rheumatism. The thick, greenish liquid of
this plant is known as rosemary oleo resin. This can be added to oils to extend their
shelf life. It has an herbal scent. Do not use if you are pregnant, epileptic, or have high
blood pressure.
Rosewood (Aniba Rosaedora) This light yellow essential oil is an antiseptic and
a deodorant. Its commonly used for acne, scars, stretch marks, dry skin, colds, flu,
fever, and headaches. It has a sweet woodsy and floral scent.
SAFETY FIRST
Rosewood is being overharvested. Consider using rosalina instead.
Sage, dalmatian (Salvia Officinalis) This clear essential oil is anti-inflammatory,

antibacterial, and antiseptic. Use it for oily skin, inflamed skin, acne, to stimulate hair
growth, and to ease muscle pain. It has a harsh herbal fragrance. Do not use if you are
pregnant or have high blood pressure.
Sage, Spanish (Salvia Lavandulifolia) This clear essential oil is used for acne, dan
druff, eczema, hair loss, dermatitis, rheumatism, coughing, headaches, asthma, colds,
flu, and muscle cramps. It has all the therapeutic uses of Salvia Officinalis, without the
dangers. Do not use if you are pregnant.
Sandalwood, mysore (Santalum Album) This light yellow essential oil is an anti
septic, analgesic, and astringent. Its commonly used for colognes, eczema, aging skin,
bronchitis, oily skin, scars, and stretch marks. It has a sweet woodsy scent.
Spearmint (Mentha Spicata) This clear essential oil is used for headaches, vertigo,
asthma, fever, and scabies. Its sweeter than peppermint but is less powerful, so its
good for children and the elderly. It has a minty scent.
35
Spikenard (Nardostachys Jatamansi) This dark yellow essential oil is antifungal

and is commonly used for dandruff, serious skin conditions, rashes, and wrinkles. It
has a strong earthy scent.
Spruce (Tsuga Canadensis) This clear essential oil is commonly used for muscle
aches, pains, cramps, and depression. It has a woodsy scent.
Spruce, black (Picea Mariana) This clear essential oil is used for muscle aches,
pains, cramps, and depression. If you want that evergreen smell of the mountains,
this is the one.
Styrax resin (Liquidambar Styraciflua) This gold essential oil is antifungal and
used to help with scabies. It smells similar to amber.
Tagetes (Tagetes Glandulifera) This dark gold essential oil is antifungal. Its com
monly used for warts and corns. Do not use if you are pregnant. Do not use on small
children. It is a sensitizer.
Tangerine (Citrus Reticulata) This green essential oil has antiseptic properties.
Its used for muscle cramps, stretch marks, and acne, and also to clean hard surfaces.
Tangerine is sweeter than mandarin. It can be a sensitizer.
Tansy, blue (Tanacetum Anuum) This deep blue essential oil is anti-inflammatory,
an antihistamine, and is nontoxic. Its commonly used for allergies, sunburns, damaged
skin, respiratory problems, itching, bruises, nervous tension, muscle aches, sprains,
and first aid. It has an herbal and lightly camphorous scent.
IN THE MIRROR
Blue tansy is not Tanacetum Vulgare, which aromatherapists warn against using.
Tanacetum Anuum is mild and safe. You can use it in place of German chamomile
or yarrow in skin care products. Tanacetum Vulgare is toxic.
Tea tree (Melaleuca Alternifolia) This light yellow essential oil is antibiotic, anti
septic, antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal. Its commonly used for repelling head
lice and fleas, and for cold sores, colds, flu, ringworms, itching, insect bites, acne,
pimples, headaches, sinusitis, sores, warts, and corns. It has a woodsy and herbal scent.
Tea tree, lemon-scented (Leptospermum Petersonii) This light yellow essential
oil has all the properties of tea tree, with the scent of lemon.
Thyme (Thymus Vulgaris) This brown essential oil is antifungal, antiviral, and
antibacterial. Its commonly used for muscle cramps, hair loss and dandruff, dermati
tis, cuts, oily skin, insect bites, colds, and sore throat. It has an herbal scent.
36
Thyme, borneol (Thymus Satureoides) This reddish-brown essential oil is a great

antimicrobial. Its commonly used in diffusers or room sprays for killing germs, bac
teria, and viruses that are in the air. Its very strong and can be irritating to the skin,
so its not recommended for topical applications. Be sure to have this one in your
arsenal to fight against germs when you have sick ones at home. It kills all the germs
in a room when diffused or sprayed. It has an herbal scent.
Thyme, linalol (Thymus Vulgaris Linalol) This brown essential oilthe mildest
of the thymesis antibacterial, anti-infectious, and antifungal. Its commonly used
for muscle cramps, hair loss and dandruff, dermatitis, cuts, oily skin, insect bites,
colds, and sore throat. It has an herbal scent.
Vetiver, El Salvador (Vetiveria Zizanoides) This dark brown essential oil is com
monly used for balancing sebum, mens cologne, oily skin, acne, sores, muscle aches,
depression, rheumatism, and stress. It has a woodsy herbal and spicy scent.
Violet leaf (Viola Odorata) This dark green essential oil is an antiseptic. Its com
monly used for soothing pain, aging skin, enlarged pores, blackheads, pimples,
headaches, insomnia, bronchitis, sore throat, and stress. It has an earthy floral scent.
Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium) This dark blue essential oil has anti-inflammatory
properties. Its commonly used for acne, oily skin, oily scalp, hair growth, painful
muscles, wounds, headaches, fever, insomnia, varicose veins, scars, and stretch marks.
It has a harsh woodsy and herbal scent. Do not use if you are pregnant, or on babies or
small children.
Ylang ylang (Canangium Odoratum) This light yellow essential oil is commonly
used for acne, balancing sebum, wrinkles, dermatitis, hair, sciatica, muscle spasms,
insomnia, and exhaustion. It has a sweet floral and fruity fragrance.
t Be careful when measuring your essential oils, and be mindful of who they might
be used on later. Some are very strong and can be a skin irritant.
t Blending certain essential oils together can be for more than just fragrance. They
can have certain healing or soothing benefits.
t Along with their therapeutic properties, remember that essential oils are also use
ful for scenting your natural beauty products!
Chapter
Helpful Herbs
In This Chapter
t What can herbs do for you?
t Infusing herbs
t Making extracts
Herbs have been in use for thousands of years. And not much has changed since those
first people used them. We still use herbs for most of the same things early man did
as medicine, as disinfectants, to flavor foods, and to freshen the air. (They also used
herbs for currency, but weve updated our money from leafy greens.)
You can use herbs in so many different products for a variety of illnesses and ailments,
including acne, eczema, chapped feet and hands, dry skin, pain relief, dandruff, diaper
rash, and many, many more! Some herbs get rid of pain, and fortunately, if they work
for pain, theyre usually antifungal, toobonus!
You can use some herbs as is, but more often, youll have to get the good stuff out of
the herbs. To do this, youll have to make extracts and infusions. You can then easily
add the properties of the herb to your products or formulations.
Herbs for Making Beauty Products

Thinking about using herbs for hair care? Try aloe vera, arnica, birch, burdock,
catmint, chamomile, horsetail, licorice, marigold, nettles, parsley, rosemary, sage,
southernwood, or stinging nettle.
38
BEAUTY BIT
The word herb covers a lot of territory. Some herbs flavor food. Some are medicinal.
Some are pesticides. Some can be used as perfume. Some can be used to dye
clothing. Herbs can be annuals, perennials, vines, shrubs, trees, mosses, and lichens
on trees.
Some herbs help with pain, including angelica, arnica, ashok, ashwagandha, barberry,
black cohosh, calendula, cayenne, cedar, celandine, chamomile, chaparral, comfrey
root, feverfew, ginger, hops, kava kava, lavender, marshmallow, meadowsweet, mother
wort, mullein, passion flower, poppy, reishi, skullcap, St. Johns wort, turmeric,
valerian, wild yam, and willow bark.
But thats just the tip of the iceberg! Lets look at all the herbs you can use when mak
ing your natural beauty products.
Aai (assai) berry (Euterpe Oleracea) The aai berry contains vitamins B1, B2, B3,
C, and E; minerals; amino acids; and omega-6 and -9 fatty acids. Its anti-aging, anti
bacterial, and anti-inflammatory. It helps cell regeneration, pimples, acne, eczema,
psoriasis, dry skin, mature skin, and damaged hair. Try it in creams, lotions, salves,
balms, eye creams, lip products, and hair care products.
Aai has been found to be a very strong antioxidant and to contain vitamins that are
supposed to regenerate the skin. Its also said to protect the collagen in our skin. Use
infused aai in facial creams and lotions. Aai is also considered very good to use in
creams for people with eczema and psoriasis.
IN THE MIRROR
The cost of aai oil remains high. However, you can still gain most of the benefits
of this incredible berry by infusing the dried and crushed berry in oil. When you
order the aai powder, it isnt really a powder. Its actually crushed berries. To
infuse, fill the bottom of a jar 1 inch full with the powdered berry and fill it with
oil. (More on infusing later in this chapter.)
Acerola berry (Maldighia Glabra) The acerola berry contains vitamin C, iron,
and calcium and is an antioxidant. It helps with dry skin and aids in fading age spots.
Try it in lotions, creams, salves, and balms.
Alfalfa (Medicago Sativa) leaf Alfalfa leaf helps with dry and itchy skin. Try it
in facial cleansers, astringents, conditioners, eye creams, lotions, and toners. The
ground seed is also used in bathwater to help relieve itchy skin. Do not use if you are
pregnant.
Chapter 4:Helpful Herbs
39
Allspice (Pimenta Dioica) Allspice is analgesic, anesthetic, antioxidant, antibacterial,
antifungal, antiseptic, antiviral, and a muscle relaxer. Its commonly used in perfumes,
soaps, and after-shaves. Try it in salves, lotions, and balms.
Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadensis Miller) Aloe vera contains vitamins A, B1, B2, B12,
C, and E. It helps with rashes and sunburns, soothes skin, and promotes healing. Its
commonly used in lotions, balms, salves, facials, masks, shaving creams, and facial
creams. I often use aloe vera juice in place of, or in part for, water in creams, lotions,
after-shave products, and baby products. Because its so soothing, its very good to use
in creams and lotions for eczema and psoriasis.
Amla gooseberry; emblic myrobalan; Indian gooseberry (Emblica Officinalis
Gaertn, Phyllanthus Emblica) Amla is used to thicken and darken hair, to strengthen
the hair strands, and for hair loss and alopecia, so try it in hair care products. This
berry is being tested for use with treating bone disorders, diabetes, and HIV.
Arnica flowers (Arnica Montana) The Native Americans used this wonderful
herb extensively for pain relief. Today we can infuse it in oil and use it in salves for
pain. When its applied, you wont feel heat or cold like you do with commercial pain
creams. Instead, after a little while, youll simply realize youre no longer hurting.
Triple-infuse this herb so its very strong when you add it to your salves.
IN THE MIRROR
There was a time when those who used herbs to heal were put to death. Herbs
were thought to be a form of witchcraft.
Arrowroot powder (Maranta Arundinacea) Arrowroot has deodorizing, healing,

and antibacterial properties. Use it for after-bath body powders, pimples, rashes, and
wounds, and to absorb moisture. The feel of this powder is very smooth, and it softens
the skin. In cosmetics, arrowroot can be used in place of talc, cornstarch, tapioca
starch, potato starch, rice starch, or flour. Its excellent for use on dry, irritated, or
sensitive skin.
Barley grass (Hordeum Vulgare) Barley grass is an antioxidant. It contains vitamins
A, B1, B2, B12, and C; folic acid; calcium; iron; and potassium. Try it in hair care
products, skin care products, and facials. Its good for all skin types.
Basil, holy; sacred basil (Ocimum Sanctum) Basil has anti-aging properties. Its
commonly used to strengthen hair and restore hairs manageability. Try it in facial
creams, lotions, balms, hair care products, and salves.
40
Calendula (pot marigold) (Calendula Officinalis) Calendula is an antifungal. It

helps with dry or irritated skin, diaper rash, eczema, psoriasis, boils, and sores. Try
it in lotions, balms, creams, hair conditioners, soaps, salves, after-bath powders, bath
teas, and herb pillows. Calendula is known for its skin-soothing properties and is
often used in soaps and many bath and body products. Infuse it in oil.
Chamomile (Matricaria Chamomilla) Chamomile is antibacterial, antispasmodic,
and healing. It helps heal rashes, abrasions, diaper rash, and burns. Use it for a calm
ing tea, or in lotions, creams, salves, after-bath powders, bath teas, soaps, and baby
products. Chamomile is wonderful for irritated skin. Infuse it in oil.
Cucumber; cucumber seeds (Cucumis Sativus) Cucumber helps with dry and
irritated skin and rashes. Try it in facial washes, toners, and soaps. Cucumber has a
soothing effect on the skin, and it improves moisture retention.
Eclipta, bhringaraj; trailing eclipta (Eclipta Alba) Eclipta helps with hair growth,
covers graying, and darkens hair. You can make hair oil by boiling eclipta leaf juice in
fractionated coconut oil.
Eucalyptus, blue gum (Eucalyptus Globulus Labill) Eucalyptus is antiseptic, anti
viral, antifungal, and antibacterial. It helps with insect bites, blisters, skin infections,
cuts and wounds, herpes, and burns. Try it in candles to kill germs in the air and in
salves, lotions, and after-shaves. The leaves can be used in room fresheners.
Fennel seeds; fennel roots (Pimpinella Anisum) Fennel seed helps with the
appearance of aging skin. Its also used in toothpastes, mouthwash, and soap.
Ginger; dried ginger (Zingiber Officinale) Ginger is a stimulant, an anti-irritant,
and an analgesic. It helps with joint and muscle pain. Try it in fragrances, after
shaves, soaps, teas, salves, balms, and bath oils. Both the dried herb and the essential
oil are very fragrant and are often used as a scent.
Gotu kola (Centella Asiatica) Gotu kola has healing properties and helps with
shrinking and fading stretch marks. Try it in salves, creams, and lotions.
Henna; Cypress shrub; mehndi (Lawsonia Inermis, Lawsonia Alba) Henna is
used as a hair colorant, as a hair thickener, to add shine to hair, and for temporary
tattoos. Henna is the only natural hair colorant approved by the Food and Drug
Administration.
Hibiscus; hibiscus flower; red hibiscus; rose of China (Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis)
Hibiscus promotes hair growth; thickens hair; and is used in shampoos, conditioners,
and rinses. It helps prevent premature graying and scalp disorders and is a dye for
eyelashes and eyebrows.
41
Jasmine; jasmine flower; catalonian jasmine (Jasminum Officinale, Jasminum

Grandiflorum) extracted oil Jasmine helps with dry or irritated skin, mouth
ulcers, and corns. It can be used in perfumes and cosmetics as well as in tinctures.
Karanja (Pongamia Glabra) Karanja is a pesticide and is antiviral, antifungal, and
antibacterial. It helps with eczema and psoriasis, and eases pain. Its safe for humans
and pets. Try it in soaps, shampoos, lotions, and salves. For a head lice problem, use
karanja added to regular store-bought shampoo to wash a childs hair. This is a safe
way to remove the head lice and not expose the child to the pesticides in commercial
head lice products.
Licorice (liquorice) (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) Licorice has anti-inflammatory, astrin
gent, and antimicrobial properties. It helps with eczema, herpes, shingles, sunburns,
insect bites, light skin discolorations (absorbing UV rays), inflammations, burns,
wounds, abscesses, boils, and other skin problems. Try it in lotions, creams, balms,
and salves. Do not use if you are pregnant or nursing.
Mint; peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Mint helps soothe aching feet and provides a
refreshing feeling. Try it in lip products, creams, lotions, pain salves, shampoos, room
sprays, balms, and soaps. Mint not only has a nice, clean, natural fragrance but also
has other beneficial uses. Mint grows in several different varieties, and each has its
own distinct scent.
SAFETY FIRST
Be very careful not to overuse peppermint. If you use too much in your product,
it can burn sensitive skin and other tender areas. Diabetics should not use
peppermint.
Myrrh; frankincense myrrh; mukul myrrh (Commiphora Myrrha) Myrrh helps

with pain relief, athletes foot, infected wounds, skin inflammations, and irritated
skin. Try it in tooth powders and gargles as well. Myrrh is like a little magic powder.
You can relieve a painful sore throat by gargling with a small amount of myrrh
dissolved in warm water. Add myrrh to your homemade tooth powder if you have
cavities or gum disease. Its especially good for eczema. Use myrrh in talc for athletes
foot. It soothes irritated skin and is ideal in creams and lotions.
Nagarmotha (nutgrass) (Cyperus Rotundus) Nagarmotha is an astringent and
anti-inflammatory. It helps lighten the skin and is good to use in creams and lotions.
Neem tree; margosa tree parts (Azadirachta Indica) Neem is antibacterial,
antiviral, and antifungal. It helps with skin problems, acne, eczema, psoriasis, and
sores and repels insects on pets. Try it in creams, lotions, soaps, shampoos, salves,
and balms.
42
Use neem cakes around your house and in your garden to repel insects. You can also
spray your trees, plants, and shrubs with a mixture of water and neem oil.
IN THE MIRROR
All parts of the neem tree are good to use for illnesses. In fact, the neem tree has
been suggested to help with more than 40 different diseases.
Nettle leaves; nettle roots (Urtica Dioica L) Nettle leaves help with stimulating
hair growth, dandruff, dry hair, alopecia, and muscle and joint pain. Its a skin astrin
gent, too. Try it in lotions, salves, and hair care products.
Oat (Avena Sativa) Oat helps with dry skin, relives the itching of chicken pox, and
exfoliates. Try it in creams, lotions, and shampoos.
Patchouli oil; patchouli seeds (Pogostemon Cablin) Patchouli helps with chapped
skin, razor bumps, and skin inflammation. Try it in perfumes, cosmetics, aftershaves,
shaving lotions and creams, and soaps.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Rosemary is commonly used for lightening
blond hair, conditioning, stimulating hair regrowth, and helping with alopecia. Try it
in soaps, shampoos, lotions, creams, perfumes, and conditioners.
Spurge (Euphorbia Hirta) Spurge helps with eczema, psoriasis, cracked lips,
cracked hands, and cracked feet. Try it in lotions, creams, salves, and balms.
Sweet violet; viola (Viola Odorata) Sweet violet helps with dry and itchy skin,
eczema, oily skin, boils, insect bites, and snake bites, and it improves skin tone. Use it
in creams, lotions, after-shave splashes, and facial toners. You can use this herb fresh
or dry in tea bags or muslin bags in your bathwater to help with dry and itching skin.
Tea tree oil; tea tree leaves (Melaleuca Alternifolia) Tea tree oil helps with skin
cleansing, acne, athletes foot, dandruff, hair care, and oral hygiene, and it repels
lice. Try it in hair conditioners, lotions, creams, after-shave splashes, soaps, talcs,
tinctures, and shampoos. Its recommended for external use only.
Tulsi (Ocimum Sanctum) Tulsi is antibacterial. It can be used to lighten dark spots,
and help with athletes feet, sores, and ringworm. Try it in lotions, creams, talcs, hair
conditioners, shampoos, and soaps.
Turmeric (Curcuma Longa) Turmeric is antibacterial and antimicrobial. It helps
with minor cuts and scrapes, eczema, and ringworm. Try it in creams and lotions.
Walnut; Persian walnut; European walnut ( Juglans Regia) Walnut helps eczema,
itchy scalp, herpes, sunburns, acne, and dandruff. It helps exfoliate dry skin and is
great in soaps and scrubs. Try it in salves and balms, too.
43
Extracts and Infusions

As mentioned at the start of this chapter, to get the benefits from herbs, you have to
extract the goodness from them. You can then easily add the herbs valuable qualities
to lotions, bath potions, and other beauty products you make.
PRETTY POINTER
Remember to label and date each jar, whether its an extract, infusion, or whatever.
Its too easy to forget whats in that jar you just found pushed to the back of the
cabinet!
Making Extracts
Extracts, also called tinctures, are made with alcohol, such as 100-proof vodka. The
standard ratio when working with dry herbs is 1 part dried herb to 8 parts alcohol.
Heres how it comes together:
1. In a coffee grinder, grind the herb until its a powder.
2. Fill a sterile glass jar 1 inch full with the herb powder.
3. Fill the rest of the jar with alcohol. Cap the jar tightly, and shake.
4. Label the jar with the contents and the date. Store in a warm, dark place, out
of direct light, for 2 weeks.
5. Strain the alcohol several times until all the pieces of the herb have been
removed.
6. Bottle in a sterile bottle with a cap or fine mist sprayer.
Making Infusions
We often use infused oils in our lotions, creams, balms, and soaps. Infusing herbs into
oil isnt difficult. However, straining the oil can be messy. Be sure to have plenty of
paper towels handy before you start. I use coffee filters for the final straining. After
your oil has been strained, youll be able to see that the oil is a slightly different color.
Heres how to make infusions using the summer method:
1. Fill a sanitized glass canning jar half full with a dried herb, and fill the rest of
the way with oil. I like to use high oleic sunflower oil or meadowfoam seed oil.
2. Add 1 teaspoon (4.9 milliliters) vinegar per 1 cup (236.6 milliliters) oil. Cap the
jar tightly, and shake.
44
3. Label the jar with the contents and the date. Place in a sunny window or
outside in the sun. Some say to leave 2 weeks; others say 6 weeks.
4. Strain the oil several times until all the pieces of the herb have been removed.
5. Replace the cap, and store in a cool, dark place until ready to use.
The vinegar extracts properties of the herb the oil cant. For a stronger extract, strain
out the old herb, replace with new, and let it steep for another 2 to 6 weeks.
To make an infusion with the winter method:
1. Fill a canning jar half full with a dried herb, and fill the rest of the way with
oil. Cap it tightly.
2. Place the jar in an ovenproof pan filled with enough water to come halfway
up the side of the jar.
3. Place the pan in an oven set to the lowest setting. Leave for 8 hours.
4. Strain the oil several times until all the little pieces of the herb have been
removed.
5. Replace the cap, and store in a cool, dark place until ready to use.
t Herbs have been used for healing since the ancient days; lets get back to using
these wonderful gifts of nature!
t Herbs arent just for seasoning your food! They also can help heal your skin and
your hair.
t To use herbs, you have to get the good parts out of them. Extracts and infusions
help you do that.
Pampering Skin and

Body Products
Part
In Part 2, we dive right into the beauty product recipes (and there are nearly 250 of
them!), starting with clay and peel-off masks; lotions; creams; and all sorts of bath
and body products like delicious body butters, bath oils, bombs, scrubs, and more.
Who needs a spa when you can create wonderful pampering products to use in your
own home? And once you find out how easy and inexpensive it is to make your own
bath and body products, youll never want to use high-priced commercial products
again. And the best part of all? Our recipes help you make all-natural and earth
friendly products.
Chapter
Clays and Masks
In This Chapter
t Different kinds of clays
t The benefits of clays
t Matching a clay to your skin type
t Recipes for clay masks and facial peels
Is there anything more soothing and relaxing than a facial? Besides all the benefits
facials give your skin, the time you spend relaxing during the facial gives you a
chance to unwind, and when youre finished, you often have a fresh, rejuvenated
lookand outlook!
All that comes from one simple concoction of clays and a few other ingredients. And
in this chapter, we show you how to put them together.
The Importance of Labeling

For an anytime facial, you can keep small containers of your favorite clays or masks
waiting for that special me time. Be sure to label your concoctions, though. What
you may think is in the container or baggie may not actually be that. Add the date
to the label as well. Time has a way of quickly flying by, and its easy to forget just
exactly whats in the containers and how long its been there!
From time to time on one of the Yahoo! soap-making groups Im part of, a member
posts a funny story about something that happened to them while making soaps.
Most of the other members can relate; funny things happen to us all when were
concocting. In fact, Ive posted about several mishaps myself. So its with a big smile
that I share the following story. This is a true story, remember. Ive added it with the
authors permission. It will also remind you why its so important to label things!
48
Part 2:Pampering Skin and Body Products
I often mix up a batch of clay mask material into a container so that when I want a
mask I just scoop a little out of it and add my liquid ingredients. Its been in that exact
same container each and every time.
A few weekends back I was letting my kids make M&P [melt-and-pour] soaps for fun
and we made up some gnarly concoction of powders to add to glycerin for scenting
and coloring some of the soaps.
So last Friday afternoon, I felt like I could use a facial pick-me-up. So I was going
to make myself a mask. I mixed it all up and applied it to my face. As I was doing so,
I noticed it smelled horrid. It was downright gross-smelling, but I figured that could
just be the sea kelp mixing with the lemon juice funny. (Lemon juice was handy so I
chose to use that.) I went about my business trying to keep my dogs calm and make
them stop barking at me because mommy looked so scary.
After about an hour I was a little concerned that it had not yet hardened like the clay
usually does. I touched a small part by my chin, and as I wiped it off from my chin
I noticed that my face was not looking right. It had a funny color to it. So I wiped a
little more off to see, and sure enough it was not my eyes tricking me, it was colored
funny.
Suddenly it hit me, as I begin laughing, crying, and screeching hysterically. I did not
apply my clay mask mixture. What I had applied was the powder mix I made for my
kids to tint their soaps. This mixture consisted of cocoa powder, rhassoul, kaolin clay,
sea kelp powder, ground coffee, and best of all henna powder! Yes, henna powder. The
kind of henna powder you mix with lemon juice to make henna tattoos! Frantically
washing the monstrous mixture off my face, laughing and crying, I rinsed it off and
looked in the mirror. Anyone who works with henna tattoos probably cringed at the
adding lemon juice part, because lemon juice is an activator for the dye release in henna.
I had two things going for me that would make it possible that I would not be
wearing a tattoo on my entire face and neck for the next 2 to 6 weeks: I washed it off
after an hour, and I did not put anything on that would normally enhance the staying
power. By the end of the day, I had managed to scrub my face raw, while diminishing
some of the harsh lines, but my eyebrows and hairline were a sight to be remembered!
Clays and Their Benefits

Clays are used in facial products because of their ability to draw out toxins, impurities,
and bacteria from the skin. Many draw out excess oils, which makes them great for
people with oily skin or who have problems with acne. Clays are also used for their
ability to tone, tighten, and exfoliate the skin.
Chapter 5:Clays and Masks
49
Clays come in many colors, and you can even use them as natural colorants for soaps
and lotions.
Certain clays are used as an important ingredient in foot and after-bath powders as
well as in cosmetics. These clays come from volcanic ash.
There are three main groups of clays:
UMontmorillonite clays
UIllite clays
UKaolinite clays
Montmorillonite clays have strong drawing properties and are exceptional for remov
ing oils, toxins, and impurities from the skin. These are part of the smectite group,
which means they absorb. They clear and cleanse the pores and help clear acne.
Illite clays get their coloring from the natural clay micas. Illites are not part of the
smectite group. These clays are light and fluffy compared to the other clay groups.
Certain clays in the illite group are said to be antibacterial; green illite clay is one of
them. This group is used to cleanse and gently exfoliate the skin.
Kaolinite clays are used to stimulate blood circulation, exfoliate, and cleanse and
nourish the skin. The kaolinite group is not part of the smectite group. These clays
are widely used in cosmetics and many personal care products as well as in industrial
manufacturing.
IN THE MIRROR
Many of these clay groups are used in treatment for medical problems both
externally and internallyfor example, detoxifying the body by absorbing the
toxins from within. They can be used externally for pain relief or to protect and
heal scrapes and cuts. You can even find some of these clays in your prescription
medicines.
Bentonite Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups)

Bentonite is a light gray clay best used for oily skin. It draws out oils and toxins and
exfoliates the skin. Many soap-makers add bentonite clay to their shaving soaps for the
extra slip the razor needs for gliding while shaving. This clay is made of volcanic ash.
Do not use bentonite in a facial more than twice a week because it can draw out too
much oil, leaving your skin dry.
50
French Green Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups)

French green clay is the favorite clay for use in cosmetics and spa treatments. Its
very beneficial for skin problems such as acne. This clay draws out oils, toxins, and
impurities from the skin while it also tightens pores. French green clay replenishes
minerals and nutrients the skin needs to remain healthy.
Do not use this clay on sensitive or dry skin.
Green Illite Clay (Illite Group)

This green clay is different from the French green clay. This green clay is part of the
illite group, which means it contains natural clay micas. Its light and fluffy with a
pale green color. It gently removes dead skin and is the very best clay for drawing out
toxins.
Because green illite clay draws out the oils, this clay is not recommended for those
who have normal to dry skin.
Fullers Earth (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups)

Used for oily skin and for acne, fullers earth has great oil-, toxin-, and bacteria
drawing properties and works wonders clearing and cleaning the pores.
This is the best clay to use for acne, but its very drying, so dont use it more than
once a week.
White Kaolin Clay (Kaolinite Group)

White kaolin or China clay is used in mineral makeup foundations, fillers, and
blushes. This clay is light and very mild, and it does not absorb or draw oils. In facial
masks, its used for its gentle exfoliating, its ability to remove toxins, and its cleansing
of the skin and pores.
This clay is the best choice for those with sensitive skin.
Pink, Red, Black, and Yellow Kaolin Clay (Kaolinite Group)

All these clays have the same characteristics as the white kaolin clay. They gently
remove dead skin cells and toxins and restore and nourish the skin. The clays get
their colors from clay micas. Theyre often used as natural colorants in soap-making.
These clays are all very mild and great for sensitive skin.
51
Moroccan Red Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups)

Best used for oily skin, Moroccan red clay removes dead skin, toxins, and bacteria;
cleans pores; and tightens the skin. It is also used as a natural brick red colorant in
soap-making.
It is, however, very drying and should not be used in a facial mask more than once a
week. Those with sensitive skin should not use this clay.
Moroccan Rhassoul Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite

Groups)
This is a wonderful clay for all skin types and is used in spa body wraps as well as in
facial masks. Rhassoul is rich in minerals and trace elements that nourish the skin
while it removes the dead skin cells, toxins, bacteria, and impurities. The clay has a
reddish-brown color.
Moroccan rhassoul is good for all skin types.
IN THE MIRROR
Ancient Egyptians and Romans used Moroccan rhassoul clay in cosmetics and as
a medicine.
Rose Clay (Blend)

This clay is a blend made by mixing together equal parts French red illite and white
kaolin clay. Its a very light and gentle clay used in cosmetics, facial masks, and as a
natural colorant.
Use this clay on sensitive or dry skin.
Which Clay Is Best for Your Skin Type?

For the best results, its important to match the clay to your skin type. This should
help you tweak our recipes and make them more your own to fit your needs or wants.
For oily skin, try bentonite, French green, red kaolin, montmorillonite (blue and red),
Moroccan red, or fullers earth.
For normal skin, try Moroccan rhassoul, all the kaolinite clays, or green illite.
52
Making Facial Masks

Now for the fun stufftime to make a mask! Creating your own facial masks isnt
difficult, but I do recommend you follow a method for mixing the dry ingredients.
First, youll want to weigh all the dry ingredients according to the recipe and mix
them together well. To do this, youll need a scale. (We dont measure in volume
using teaspoons, tablespoons, or cups, but actually weigh the ingredients using
ounces.) Store the mask mixture in an airtight containerand be sure you label and
date it! When youre ready to make a mask, remove the amount you need, add the
liquid as specified in the recipe, stir until the mixture is spreadable, and apply. Easy!
Do try to set aside a little time each week for your me time and give yourself a
wonderful facial. Soon youll notice your skin looking younger, healthier, and more
vibrant.
You may be wondering where you can find these clays, essential oils, and hydrosols.
We have a list of online vendors in the back of the book. These are vendors we
personally know, trust, and use ourselves.
IN THE MIRROR
One note before we begin: youll notice in this and subsequent chapters, we dont
include the amount of preservative or scent as part of the 100 percent makeup
of these recipes. Scent is optional, and the amount of preservative depends
on the type and brand of preservative you use. (See Appendix E for more on
preservatives.)
Heres what you need to make facial masks:

UScale
USmall plastic or glass container with a lid
USpoon
53
Simple Milk and Clay Mask

Weve always heard how beneficial milk is to the skin. This gentle and simple mask
nourishes and cleanses your skin and is good for all skin types and ages. This recipe
makes 4 ounces (113.6 grams) dry mix, or about 12 facials.
Clay (your choice)
Powdered milk
2 ounces (56.7 grams)
1. Using a food scale, put a bowl on the scale and push the tare button to zero out
the weight of the bowl.
2. Weigh the dry ingredients one at a time, and place them in a bowl or small food
grinder. We like to use a small grinder.
3. Return the bowl to the scale. It should still show zero weight. If not, push
the tare button again and wait for it to zero out the weight of the bowl again.
Continue with the next dry ingredient.
4. When youve weighed all the dry ingredients, grind them in the grinder for
several seconds or until theyre well incorporated. If using a bowl, stir them
until theyre well blended together.
5. Store the mixture in a baggie or airtight container until youre ready to use it.
To use:
1. Remove about 2 teaspoons (9.9 milliliters) dry mask mixture and hold in your
hand or a small bowl.
2. Add any essential oils that may be part of the recipe, and stir well.
3. Add a few drops distilled water, hydrosol, or oil, and mix well.
4. Spread the mask over your clean, damp face and neck, avoiding your eye area.
5. Relax for 15 to 20 minutes while the mask works its magic.
6. When the mask is completely dry, rinse your face and neck with warm water.
Pat it dry with a clean towel, and follow with a toner and moisturizer.
54
Dry Skin Mask

This is a wonderful hydrating mask for dry and/or mature skin. It removes the dead
skin cells and draws out toxins while the sea kelp or sea mud gives extra skin-loving
minerals. This recipe makes 3 ounces (85 grams) dry mix, or about 10 facials.
White kaolin clay
Moroccan rhassoul clay
Sea kelp or sea mud (powder form)
1 ounce (28.4 grams)

Prepare as directed in the Simple Milk and Clay Mask recipe. When ready to use,
add to the dry mixture and stir well:
Chamomile essential oil
Rose geranium essential oil
Lavender essential oil
2 drops
2 drops
2 drops
Normal Skin Mask

This mask exfoliates, cleanses, nourishes, and brightens skin. Thats why its one of
my favorites! Its good for all ages with normal skin types. For a change every once in
a while, replace the distilled water with a rose hydrosol. This recipe makes 6 ounces
(170.1 grams) dry mix, or about 20 facials.
Rose clay
Sea kelp or sea mud (powder form)

Prepare as directed in the Simple Milk and Clay Mask recipe.
55
Oily Skin Mask

This is a good mask for those with oily skin but who dont have acne. It draws out
toxins and excess oils while tightening pores and toning the skin. This recipe makes 6
ounces (170.1 grams) dry mix, or around 20 facials.
Finely ground oatmeal
Fullers earth
Kaolin clay
3 ounces (85 grams)
Clary sage essential oil
Lemon essential oil
Rosemary essential oil
2 drops
2 drops
2 drops
Oily Problem Skin Mask

This mask is great for acne suffers. It pulls out toxins, oils, and grime from deep in
the pores. Its not recommended for use more than once or twice a week, though.
This recipe makes 6 ounces (170.1 grams) dry mix, or about 20 masks.
Fullers earth
Juniper essential oil
1 drop
1 drop
1 drop
Patchouli essential oil

Ylang ylang essential oil
1 drop
1 drop
IN THE MIRROR
Aai oil has been on the market for a while. It has wonderful benefits for internal
and external use; however, it is very expensive. Recently a butter has become
available that has a 25 percent aai berry content. The butter is a much more
economical way to get the benefits of the aai berry without the high cost. Try it
in dry or mature skin hydrating facials.
56
Delicious Chocolate and Strawberry Mask

The combination of cocoa powder and fruit powders in masks has become very
popular. And with good reason! Cocoa powder contains many important antioxidants,
and the fruit powders are packed with vitamins and help loosen dead skin cells. The
honey and yogurt powder each bring their own benefits, too. This recipe makes about
5 masks.
Kaolin clay (your choice)
Powdered milk
Honey powder
Cocoa powder
Yogurt powder
Strawberry powder
.5 ounce (14.2 grams)

Rejuvenating Mask
The use of green tea powder and pomegranate powder gives this mask cell revital
izing and antioxidant properties. This recipe makes about 5 masks.
Kaolin clay (your choice)
Sea kelp or Dead Sea mud
(powder form)
Green tea powder
Pomegranate powder

Making Facial Peels

Along with masks, the time you spend doing a facial peel is all your own time. You
can lock yourself away and relax while your skin is being rejuvenated. Facial peels not
only pull out black- and whiteheads from your pores; they also remove dead skin and
dirt left behind after washing. For most people, the worst areas for blackheads are
around the nose and chin, so thats the first place youll want to apply your facial peel.
And as with the clays, avoid getting the peel near your eyes.
57
When youre ready to remove the peel, start peeling the mask from your forehead
down. Always rinse your face after a peel and follow it with a toner and moisturizer.
Heres what you need to make a facial peel:
UStove
USmall saucepan
USpoon
USmall bowl
URefrigerator
Simple Facial Peel

This quick and easy peel is just what your skin needs for a little pick-me-up. This
recipe makes 1 facial peel.
Distilled water
Unflavored gelatin
Aloe vera gel or juice
Oil (your choice)
1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the distilled water to a boil and
add the gelatin. Stir while the gelatin dissolves and then remove the pan from
heat.
2. Add aloe vera gel and oil, and stir well.
3. Pour the mixture into a small bowl, and refrigerate for about 20 minutes or
until the mixture becomes thick.
4. Spread the mixture over your clean, damp face and neck, avoiding your eye area.
Relax while the peel dries.
5. Peel off the dried mask, starting at your forehead. Follow by rinsing your face
with warm water.
PRETTY POINTER
If you dont want to use an animal by-product such as the gelatin, try replacing
the unflavored gelatin called for in these recipes with .2 ounce (5.7 grams)
xanthan gum. Ive not tested this method, but Ive heard it works. The directions
would be the same as if you were using the unflavored gelatin.
58
Facial Peel for Mature Skin

This is a great one-time-use peel. This recipe makes 1 facial peel.
Distilled water
Unflavored gelatin
Aloe vera juice
White kaolin clay
Sea kelp or mud (powder form)
Iris florentina extract
(anti-aging)
1.5 ounces (42.5 grams)
Prepare as directed in the Simple Facial Peel recipe.

PRETTY POINTER
For extra skin-loving benefits, try steeping a few herbs in the distilled water. Strain
the herbs from the water before you continue making your mask or peel.
Facial Peel for Oily Skin

This one-time-use peel is perfect for oily and acne-prone skin. Dont forget to
smooth it on your neck, too! This recipe makes 1 facial peel.
Distilled water
Unflavored gelatin
Aloe vera juice
2 drops
Cypress or juniper berry

essential oil
2 drops
Prepare as directed in the Simple Facial Peel recipe.
t Clay masks can improve your skin, no matter your skin type or age.
t Follow your skin type to determine what type of clay is best to use in your masks.
t Always label and date your containers.
t Remember to take some me time and relax while giving yourself a facial!
Chapter
All Things Facial
In This Chapter
t Soothing facial creams and cleansers

t Excellent exfoliants
t Facial balms to soothe your skin
t Terrific facial toners
In this chapter, weve included lots of skin care product recipes, so youre sure to find
some well suited for your skin type.
We hope you have a blast making these cleansers, exfoliants, and more, but be sure
to use them! These products wont do much for your skin if they sit idle on your
bathroom counter or nightstand, unused. (I know this because Im terrible about
remembering to use my products daily!) They do, however, work wonders when you
actually use them!
The Basics of Making Facial Products

Cleansers, creams, and toners are an important part of taking care of your skin,
especially your face. Having a daily regimen in placeand following it!helps keep
your skin healthy and youthful.
Heres what you need to make the goodies in this chapter:
UStove
UFunnel
UScale
UThermometer (meat or candy type)
USeveral glass or plastic bowls
UImmersion blender
U8-quart stockpot
USanitized jars and bottles
USpoons or whisk
60
IN THE MIRROR
As noted earlier, we dont include the amount of preservative or scent as part of the
100 percent makeup of these recipes. Scent is optional, and the amount of preser
vative depends on the type and brand of preservative you use. (See Appendix E.)
I like Optiphen Plus preservative for these recipes. Its paraben- and formaldehyde
free.
Making Facial Creams

Facial creams are thick creams useful for very dry skin or for mature skin. During
the winter, you can use these creams daily to help prevent your skin from drying out
due to the cold weather.
Extreme Facial Crme

With the winters cold, youll find this cream very soothing. Even though this cream
is very thick and heavy, it soaks in nicely, leaving your skin moisturized and protected
from the cold. Those with very dry, mature skin may find this cream perfect for
year-round moisturizing. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams). Youll need
1 (16-ounce; 453.6-gram) jar, 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars, or 4 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram)
jars.
Evening primrose oil
Mango butter
Meadowfoam oil
Avocado oil
Pumpkin seed oil
Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water
Preservative
1.2 ounces (34 grams)
(see manufacturers recommendation)
Skin-safe fragrance or essential oil
.2 ounces (5.7 grams)
1. Set your scale to ounces. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button
to zero out the weight of the bowl. Weigh your liquids one at a time in a bowl,
and place them in a stockpot. Heat over low heat until the oils and butters
completely melt.
Chapter 6:All Things Facial
61
2. Bring the oils and butters to a temperature of 180F. If youre using unrefined
butter, hold the mixture at that temperature for 20 minutes. This kills any
germs or bacteria that may be in the unrefined butter.
3. Weigh the emulsifying wax and stearic acid, and add these to the pot.
4. While the wax is melting, weigh and warm the distilled water in a saucepan
over medium heat. Your water has to be warm before you add it to the mixture;
otherwise, the water will cool the oils and you wont get a good emulsion.
5. Add water to the mixture, and use an immersion blender to bring the mixture
together to form a good emulsion. Remove the pot from the heat.
6. When the mixture has cooled to 110F, add the preservative and fragrance. Use
the immersion blender again to incorporate all the ingredients. At this time, you
can also add a skin-safe colorant. Let the mixture completely cool.
As the mixture cools, it will thicken into a beautiful, rich cream. Package in sterile jars.
SAFETY FIRST
Be careful not to overheat your oils in step 2. Overheated butter, such as mango
or cocoa butter, will crystallize later on and feel grainy in the finished product.
Aai Face Butter

This is a very rich, very thick, yet still light facial butter that contains all the benefits
of the aai berry. Aai is well known for its anti-aging properties. This recipe is per
fect for mature skin, for those who spend a lot of time in the sun, and for those who
want to prevent premature wrinkles. This recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams).
Aai-infused sunflower oil
3 ounces (85 grams)
Shea butter (cosmetic grade)

Avocado oil
Pumpkin seed oil
Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
3 ounces (85 grams)
Vegetable glycerin
DL panthenol B5 (vitamin B5)
62
Distilled water
Fragrance or essential oil

Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Extreme Facial Crme recipe, and package in sterile jars.
PRETTY POINTER
Aai berries are packed full of skin- and cell-saving benefits. To create the aai
sunflower oil infusion, see Chapter 4. When using crushed berries, fill a 1-quart
(32-ounce; 907.2-gram) canning jar half full of the crushed berries and add 8
ounces (226.8 grams) oil. (No need to weigh the berries.) If the berries are very
powdery, fill the jar 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) full with the powder and follow with
8 ounces (226.8 grams) oil.
Light Facial Cream

This cream, formulated for those who need a little more than a lotion, isnt as heavy
as the other creams, so its suitable for younger dry skin or normal mature skin. This
recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams). Use 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars.
Sweet almond oil
Macadamia nut oil
Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Preservative

Anti-Aging Facial Cream for Younger Skin

So youre 30-something and beginning to notice a few tiny fine lines near your eyes
or around your mouth. This cream will help hold those fine lines at bay. Dont panic
that this recipe has several specialty ingredients. They come from Lotion Crafter, an
online supply business (see Appendix D). The meadowfoam seed oil pulls the anti
aging ingredients deep into the tissues. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams).
63
You can halve this recipe to make only 8 ounces (226.8 grams) or even double it, if
desired.
Shea butter
Meadowfoam seed oil
Emulsifying wax
Aloe vera juice or distilled water
Preservative
After the mixture has cooled to under 104F, add:

Arireline (for wrinkles)
Coenzyme Q-10 (anti-aging)
PRETTY POINTER
You can always use distilled water in place of aloe vera juice. In recipes that call for
half aloe vera and half distilled water, you can use 100 percent distilled water.
Anti-Aging Facial Cream for Mature Skin

I formulated this cream for myself, and I love it so much I wanted to share it with
you. This recipe easily can be cut in half or doubled. If you want to tweak it a little,
try swapping argan oil for the evening primrose oil. This recipe makes 8 ounces
(226.8 grams).
Meadowfoam seed oil
Pumpkin seed oil
Emulsifying wax
After the cream has cooled to 104F, add:

Coenzyme Q-10-Q-Max
Iris florentina extract
Hyaluronic acid
64
Prepare as directed in the Extreme Facial Crme recipe. When the cream has cooled
to 104F, add:
LC Wrinkle Defense
Essential or fragrance oil
Preservative

Package in sterile jars.
Anti-Aging Eye Cream

This cream is wonderful for helping minimize folds on the eyelid, wrinkles, and
under-eye bags. You will see a definite difference after using for 4 weeks, but dont
stop. Keep on using the cream to continue the effects! This recipe makes 4 ounces
(113.4 grams).
Meadowfoam seed oil
Emulsifying wax

Prepare as directed in the Extreme Facial Crme recipe. When cream has cooled to
104F, add:
Eyeseryl
LC Wrinkle Defense
Preservative

Package in a sterile 4-ounce (113.4-gram) jar.
Moisturizing Facial Cream

This lotion is suitable for those who have slightly dry skin. Its light enough to put
under makeup but heavy enough to keep your skin well moisturized all day. This is
my moisturizer of choice under my makeup. This recipe can be cut in half or even
doubled. Either way will work just fine. This recipe makes 32 ounces (907.2 grams).
Avocado oil
Peach kernel oil
Meadowfoam seed oil

Castor oil
Emulsifying wax

Stearic acid
Distilled water
Aloe vera gel or juice
Preservative

65
Light Moisturizer
This lotion is for those with normal skin who just need a light, under-makeup mois
turizer. This recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams).
Safflower oil
Avocado oil
Peach kernel oil
Sweet almond oil
Emulsifying wax
Aloe vera juice

Prepare as directed in the Extreme Facial Crme recipe, and package in sterile jars or
bottles.
Making Facial Cleansers

Soap alone wont remove 100 percent of the makeup, grime, oil, and pollutants that
collect on our faces every day. To get your face totally clean, you need a good cleans
ing cream. And youre in luck! Weve included three in this section to help you get
started making your own cleansing creams.
Theyre simple to use: after youve rubbed the cleanser over your face, just wipe it all
off with a tissue. After using a cleanser, use a toner and then a moisturizer to make
your skin glow.
66
Cold Cream
Cold creams have been around forever for removing makeup and moisturizing our
skin. Heres a simple but good recipe I know you will enjoy. You can cut this recipe in
half or double it if desired. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams).
Beeswax
Sweet almond oil
Castor oil
Aloe vera juice
Preservative

1 teaspoon (4.9 milliliters)
1. On the stove over medium-low heat, melt the weighed beeswax.

2. Add the oils and aloe vera juice to the wax, and stir well. Let the oils warm to
110F and then remove from heat.
3. Add the fragrance oil and preservative, and mix well.
4. Pour into sterile jars and let completely cool. The mixture will thicken as it
cools. Place lid on jars.
Sunflower Facial Cleansing Cream

This cleanser is best suited for dry or mature skin. This recipe makes 16 ounces
(453.6 grams).
Sunflower oil
Apricot kernel oil
Sweet almond oil
Castor oil
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water

Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Cold Cream recipe.
67
Facial Cleansing Cream for Problem Skin

This recipe is for those who have acne and other types of problem skin. Jojoba oil
doesnt aggravate acne because its not an oil but a liquid wax. Jojoba oil moisturizes
the skin and also cuts through makeup, pollution, and grime. This recipe makes 16
ounces (453.6 grams).
Jojoba oil
Distilled water
Aloe vera gel
Stearic acid
Emulsifying wax
Lemongrass essential oil
Preservative

Prepare as directed in the Cold Cream recipe.
Making Exfoliants
Exfoliants remove all the dead cells from your skin, leaving it soft and with a much
more youthful glow and texture. Its important to exfoliate at least once a week to
keep your skin looking its best. Even people who have problem skin still need to
exfoliate, and we have the perfect recipe for you! Exfoliants arent hard to make and
pay back your efforts with refreshed and glowing skin.
Avena Facial Cleanser and Exfoliant

This quick but effective cleanser and exfoliant is so easy to whip up. Its ready to use
as soon as you get it in the jar. This recipe makes 11.5 ounces (326 grams).
Moisturizing cream (your choice)
Rosemary oleo resin
Preservative
4 cup (59.2 milliliters)
1. Place a bowl on top of your scale, and push the tare button to zero out the
weight of the bowl. Weigh your moisturizing cream and place in a medium bowl.
68
2. Replace the smaller bowl on the scale, and again push the tare button. Now
weigh each ingredient one at a time and place them in the medium bowl.
3. Mix the ingredients together well and pour into a sterile jar.
IN THE MIRROR
Avena is another word for oatmeal. You can use a coffee grinder to grind the oats.
Jojoba Exfoliant
This is an excellent exfoliant for people with problem skin or acne. Jojoba oil does not
aggravate acne. This recipe is a cold mix, which means you just weigh and stir it all
together. Easy as 1-2-3! This recipe makes 8 ounces (226.8 grams).
Jojoba oil
LipidThix
Jojoba beads
Bergamot essential oil
Preservative
1 tablespoon (14.8 milliliters)
1
1
Prepare as directed in the Avena Facial Cleanser and Exfoliant recipe, and package in
sterile jars.
IN THE MIRROR
LipidThix is a product we buy at Lotion Crafters. By adding it, you can make any
oil thick, like an emulsion or a butter. For most oils, you use 20 percent LipidThix
and 80 percent oil to make a thick butter that will support jojoba beads or ground
kernel such as apricotperfect for making a scrub or exfoliant!
Oatmeal Exfoliant
We all know how well oatmeal works as a gentle exfoliant, and this recipe takes
advantage of that! Its so quick and easy, theres no heating involved. Just weigh all the
ingredients, put in a jar, and its ready to use. If you prefer, substitute brown sugar in
place of the white. They both do the same thing for the skin. This recipe makes 2.5
Sweet almond oil

Fine white sugar

Preservative
69
Prepare as directed in the Avena Facial Cleanser and Exfoliant recipe, and package in
sterile jars.
PRETTY POINTER
Using sugar, either white or brown, in a scrub or exfoliant helps with problem skin
or acne. The sugar eats the bacteria off the skin, helping clear up the complexion.
Try tweaking your favorite recipe by adding an ounce or two of sugar.
Making Facial Balms

Facial balms are wonderful for protecting the skin if youre going to be outside in the
weather. For those times you know youll be out in the sun, you might want to add a
little Z-Cote zinc oxide for UV protection, even in winter. (If you plan on using the
balm at night, you can skip the zinc.)
Balms are made mainly of oil, butter, and wax. (Because of this, most of them feel
pretty greasy when you first apply them. But never fear; they do sink into the skin
nicely after a few minutes.) For the wax, you can choose to use only one or make a
blend. Please dont use a petroleum-base wax. They are harmful to your skin and are
not intended to be used on it. Instead, choose one or a combination of these:
UBeeswax
USoy wax
UCandelilla
UCarnauba
UAnother vegetable wax
Essential oils are great additives for these balms. Rather than choosing an essential
oil for its scent, choose one whose properties target your skin needs.
70
SAFETY FIRST
Many essential oils cannot or should not be used on new babies or pregnant
women. For this reason, its best to play it safe and never use essential oils for
babies under 3 months or for pregnant women. Better to be safe than sorry!
Instead, use phthalate-free fragrance oil for scenting.
Dry Skin Facial Balm

Even during the summer I use this facial balm. Its light and soaks quickly into the
skin, but it still leaves a slightly slick feel so its better to use at night and not during
the day when youll also be wearing makeup. This recipe makes 32 ounces (907.2
grams).
Lanolin
Shea butter
Glycerin
Hempseed oil
Vitamin E
Z-Cote zinc oxide
Litsea essential oil
Preservative

.6 ounce (17 grams)
1. Weigh the wax and place it in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat
until its just about all melted.
2. Weigh the butters and add them to the saucepan. Reduce heat to low. When the
butters have just about melted, remove the pan from the heat and stir to help the
butters finish melting the rest of the way. (If youd rather, you can microwave
the wax and butters in a microwave-safe dish in 1 minute spurts, stirring in
between, until theyve just about melted. Stir while they finish melting.)
3. Weigh the oils, add them to the melted wax and butter, and stir well.
4. Let the balm cool to 110F and then add the fragrance (if using) and preserva
tive, and stir well.
5. While still hot, pour into sterile jars. Let completely cool and place the lids on
the jars.
71
PRETTY POINTER
If youre allergic to lanolin or dont want to use it, substitute castor jelly instead.
You might need to add a small amount of stearic acid for a little more firmness.
Also, butters can become grainy or gritty if they get too hot while melting. To
avoid this, use low heat and remove them from the heat source before all the
butter has melted. Stir them while they finish melting.
Snow Ski Facial Balm

This is a perfect facial balm to protect the skin while youre out in the cold wind
skiing or just playing. Z-Cote zinc oxide helps protect against UV rays as well, and
doesnt leave a white coating on the skin. This recipe makes 8 ounces (226.8 grams).
Beeswax pastilles
Shea butter
Cocoa butter
Avocado oil
Sweet almond oil
Z-Cote zinc oxide
Preservative
.6 ounce (17 grams)
Prepare as directed in the Dry Skin Facial Balm recipe, and package in sterile jars.
IN THE MIRROR
Z-Cote zinc oxide wont leave a white film on your skin the way the old zinc oxide
used to. Its completely clear when used in formulations.
Kokum Butter Moisturizing Facial Balm

This facial balm is full of skin-loving butters and oils to protect and soften the skin.
Kokum butter may be a little hard to find, but its worth the hunt. It adds much
needed vitamins as well as a protective seal to hold moisture in and everything else
out, yet your skin can still breathe. You can cut this recipe down by halves or double
it if you desire. This recipe makes 26 ounces (737.1 grams).
Soy wax or Joy Wax
(We love Joy Wax.)
Shea butter
Kokum butter
72
Jojoba oil
Sesame oil

Squalane
Vitamin E
Peppermint essential oil
Preservative

1 gel cap
.07 ounce (2 grams)
Prepare as directed in the Dry Skin Facial Balm recipe, and package in deodorant
push-up tubes.
Making Facial Toners

Facial toners work in two ways: they remove any leftover dirt or grime your soap or
cleanser left behind, and they close your pores, keeping future dirt and grime out.
That second item is an important step that shouldnt be overlooked or omitted from
your daily cleansing.
Your skin type determines the type of toner you should use. Those with sensitive
skin should stick with a toner that contains aloe vera but no alcohol. Those with acne
need witch hazel and alcohol.
As youll see, these toners are easy to make. Use a baby eye dropper to add the essen
tial oils.
Facial Toner for Normal to Dry Skin

This light and gentle toner removes any remaining dirt and oil from your skin and
closes your pores. And its not too harsh for dry skin. This recipe makes 4 ounces
(113.4 grams).
Rose water
(We like Cortas brand.)
Polysorbate 20
Palmarosa essential oil
Geranium essential oil
Preservative

4 drops
4 drops
73
1. In a sterile bottle, mix together all ingredients.

2. Alternatively, you can prepare a large batch and pour it into several sterile
bottles.
Facial Toner for Normal to Sensitive Skin

This toner is gentle yet very effective. Youll love using the rose hydrosol! And yes, it
does have a very light rose scent. This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams).
Aloe vera juice
Rose hydrosol
Glycerin
Polysorbate 20
Ylang ylang essential oil
Preservative

4 drops
4 drops
Prepare as directed in the Facial Toner for Normal to Dry Skin recipe.
Facial Toner for Rosacea

Rosacea can be very difficult to clear and keep clear. This toner has the healing of
chamomile and green tea. You can use loose tea or tea bags to brew the teas. This
recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams).
Brewed green tea
Brewed chamomile tea
Witch hazel
Polysorbate 20
Rose hip oil
Preservative
.6 ounce (17 grams)
1. Brew the teas using distilled water. You can use a normal amount of loose tea
leaves as you would for a cup of tea to drink, or you can use 1 tea bag. Let steep
a few minutes. Strain and then weigh 1 ounce (28.4 grams) of each green tea and
chamomile tea.
2. Weigh and add the witch hazel, Polysorbate 20, and rose hip oil.
3. Let cool to less than 110F and add preservative. Bottle.
74
Facial Toner for Oily Skin

Oily skin needs extra care to prevent breakouts. The essential oil blend in this recipe
is designed to help control the oil, close the pores, and control the bacteria that
adhere to the skin due to the oil. You may halve or double this recipe if desired. This
Witch hazel
Polysorbate 20
Eucalyptus essential oil
Preservative

.4 ounces (11.3 grams)
4 drops
2 drops
2 drops
Facial Toner for Acne

After youve exfoliated, youll need to follow with this toner, which closes those pores
and helps prevent future breakouts. This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams).
Witch hazel
Aloe vera gel
Polysorbate 20

4 drops

Preservative
4 drops
4 drops
Rose Water Facial Toner

For mature skin, theres nothing as soothing and beneficial as a rose water toner.
Youll love the light rose fragrance, too! This recipe makes 8 ounces (226.8 grams).
Rose water
(We like Cortas brand.)
Lavender hydrosol
Chamomile hydrosol
Aloe vera juice

Palmarosa essential oil

Vitamin E
Preservative
1 gel cap
75
t Always weigh all your ingredients so your recipes will come out correctly.
t Dont forget or skip sterilizing your container and workspace.
t With these recipes, you can make all your own skin care needschemical-free!
and save money and be environmentally friendly, too!
Chapter
Body Beautiful
In This Chapter
t Luscious, pampering body butters
t Wonderful lotions that are a snap to make!
t DIY skin-improving scrubs
t Milk baths, bath bombs, and bath teas to soothe and relax
In this chapter, we take a look at how different oils and butters combine to make
wonderful creams, lotions, body butters, bath fizzies, and many more lovely bath and
body products.
You might notice that the recipes add up to 102 percent. Thats not a typo! We dont
include the amount of preservative or scent as part of the 100 percent in these recipes.
Scent is optional, and the amount of preservative depends on the type and brand of
preservative youre using. I prefer Optiphen Plus for these recipes. Its paraben- and
formaldehyde-free, and its use rate is 1 percent. (See Appendix E for more on preser
vatives.)
Before we begin, let me again stress the importance of cleanliness. Always clean your
work area with white vinegar or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide before you start working.
And be sure to sanitize your containers with alcohol or a commercial sanitizer.
Making Body Butter

Body butters nourish our oil-starved skin in a delicious way. A good body butter will
completely soak into your skin within a few minutes after applying it. It shouldnt just
sit on top of your skin, leaving you feeling greasy or like a well-buttered turkey ready
to go into the oven!
78
Your skin also should not feel tight or dry an hour after applying the butter. Body
butter should leave your skin soft and moisturized all day. Many commercially made
body butters and lotions use chemicals such as sodium hydroxide (lye) as thickeners.
These can dry out your skin so much that an hour later, you need to reapply.
There are several ways to make body butter. One is to soften the butters and add oil
while whipping the mixture with an electric mixer. The problem with this method is
that it doesnt hold up very well over time, in shipping, or in a warm climate. Weve
found that its much better to make body butter using emulsifying wax and stearic acid.
This gives you a nice, rich butter that holds together to the very last drop.
BEAUTY BIT
Emulsifying wax (or ewax) is a wax made from vegetable waxes and is used to
bind oils and water together to make lotions, creams, and body butters. Its easy
to work with.
In these recipes, weve used common but very good butters and oils. By no means are
you limited to only these oils and buttersyou can swap one butter for a different
butter or oil you want to use. As long as you keep the total combined weight of oils
and butters the same, the recipe will still work.
Heres what you need to make body butters:
UStove
UScale
UStainless-steel stockpot (6 or 8 quarts)
UImmersion blender
ULong-handled plastic or stainless-steel spoon
UMeat or candy thermometer
UCereal bowlsize glass or plastic bowl
USmall plastic pitcher
U2 small glass measuring cups or other type of glass cup
U4-ounce (113.4-gram), 8-ounce (226.8-gram), or 16-ounce (453.6-gram) jars and
bottles
Chapter 7:Body Beautiful
79
Thick and Luscious Body Butter

This is an incredibly thick and luscious body butteras the name implies! The butter
sinks into your skin quickly within a couple minutes and leaves it feeling soft and
moist all day, without feeling sticky or greasy. This recipe makes 32 ounces (907.2
grams), or 8 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) jars or 4 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars.
Grapeseed oil
Sweet almond oil
Avocado oil
Shea butter
Mango butter
Cocoa butter
Kokum (or other butter of choice)
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water
Preservative

1. Place the plastic pitcher on the scale, and push the tare button to zero out the
weight of the pitcher. Weigh each oil in the pitcher separately and pour into
the stainless-steel pot. Place the plastic bowl on the scale, press tare, and repeat
the process for each butter.
2. Place the pot over low heat. Let the oils and butters completely melt, stirring
occasionally to help the butters melt.
3. Using your thermometer to check the temperature of the combined oils and
butters, bring the mixture to 180F. If youre using unrefined butter, hold the
mixture at that temperature for 20 minutes. This kills any germs or bacteria
that may be in the unrefined butter. Be careful not to overheatoverheated
butter, such as mango and cocoa butter, will crystallize later on and feel grainy.
4. On your scale, weigh out the emulsifying wax and stearic acid and add to the pot.
While the wax is melting, weigh out distilled water. Place water in the microwave
for 60 seconds at a time until the water is at least 140F. (The water must be warm
before you add it to the mixture.) Add the water to the mixture, and use an immer
sion blender to bring the oils, wax, and water together to form a good emulsion.
Remove from heat and allow to cool to 110F.
80
5. Put your glass measuring cup on the scale, push the tare button, and weigh the
fragrance oil. Now get another glass cup, put it on the scale, and again push the
tare button.
6. When mixture has cooled to 110F, weigh out and add your preservative and
fragrance. Again, use your immersion blender to incorporate all the ingredients.
At this time you can also add a skin-safe colorant. Follow the amount recom
mended by the manufacturer.
7. Let cool completely, and pour into sterile jars.
As the body butter cools, it will thicken into a beautiful, rich, thick butter.
IN THE MIRROR
The women of West and Central Africa depend on the manufacturing and export
ing of shea butter. By working with the shea butter, these women have become
independent and are able to support and educate their children.
81
Simple Body Butter

This body butter is simple but very effective. This recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4
grams), or 6 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) jars or 3 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars.
Sweet almond oil
Grapeseed oil
Shea butter
Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water
Preservative

Prepare as directed in the Thick and Luscious Body Butter recipe. Let cool com
pletely, and pour into sterile jars.
Body Butter for Mature Skin

The meadowfoam seed oil in this recipe carries the butters and oils deep through all
the layers of the skin, making this a perfect butter for more mature skin. This recipe
makes 64 ounces (1,814.4 grams), or 8 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or 16 (4-ounce;
113.4-gram) jars.
Sweet almond oil
Pumpkin seed oil
Meadowfoam seed oil

Unrefined shea butter

Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water
Preservative

.6 ounce (17 grams)
82
Pregnant Belly Butter

I created this recipe for my daughter while she was pregnant. During her pregnancies,
she applied the butter several times a day and happily has only a few small stretch
marks after having had three babies. Since then, whenever one of her friends becomes
pregnant, they come to me for this butter. Remember, many essential oils can be
harmful to children and pregnant women, so please dont use essential oils in this
butter. This recipe makes 32 ounces (907.2 grams), or 4 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or
8 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) jars.
Sweet almond oil
Peach kernel oil
Meadowfoam seed oil
Cocoa butter
Shea butter
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water
Preservative
Skin-safe fragrance oil
3 ounces (85 grams)

3 ounces (85 grams)
pletely, and pour into jars.
Only-the-Best Body Butter

Only the best oils and butters are used in this rich and decadent butter, and your skin
will welcome it and drink it in. A few of the oils and butters in this recipe are a little
pricey, but they are so worth it! Do practice by making the other recipes before you
tackle this one. Its not hard, but we wouldnt want you to start out making butters
for the first time using these more expensive oils and butters. This recipe makes 32
ounces (907.2 grams), or 4 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or 8 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) jars.
Kukui oil
Peach kernel oil
Illipe butter
Cupuacu butter

Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water
Preservative
83
IN THE MIRROR
The fruit of the Cupuacu tree provides a wonderful butter. Cupuacu butter
hydrates very dry skin and hair, returning its natural softness and smoothness.
This butter can be used in place of lanolin in products and is a good vegetable
alternative. This body butter is wonderful for cancer patients who are going
through chemotherapy, especially since chemo is so drying. Cancer patients are
often nauseated by smells, so avoid using any scent in a body butter or lotion
for them.
Painful Feet Cream

The arnica herb, which helps ease pain, is often infused in oil and used in lotions,
balms, and sticks. Rub your feet with this cream after a long day, and in no time
youll realize your feet are no longer aching. You wont feel heat or cold like you do
from commercial muscle rubs and such. This recipe makes 32 ounces (907.2 grams),
or 4 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or 8 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) jars.
Meadowfoam seed oil
Sunflower oil double infused
with arnica (herb)
Shea butter
Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water
Preservative

pletely, and pour into jars.
84
Antifungal Cream
This cream really works! If you have smelly feet, all you have to do is rub this cream
on your feet every morning, and your feet will stay fresh and odor-free all day long.
You can also use this under your arms instead of using a commercial deodorant. This
recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams), or 4 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or 8 (4-ounce;
113.4-gram) jars.
Black cumin seed oil
Karanja oil
Neem oil
Emu oil
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Aloe vera gel (used in place of
water)
Preservative
Essential oil blend

For the essential oil blend, use equal parts (.14 ounce; 4 grams) of these essential oils:
German chamomile
Lemongrass
Rosemary
Cinnamon or clove
Eucalyptus
Peppermint
Thyme
SAFETY FIRST
Many people find cinnamon essential oil causes skin irritation. If you use it, use
a lesser percentage. And I love the smell of peppermint, but it also can cause a
burning sensation on the skin. Use both of these essential oils with care.
Making Lotions
You make lotions the same way you make body butters. However, they are very dif
ferent from body butters. Lotions have a thinner and lighter consistency. The oil and
butter ratio is less in lotions than it is in body butters. And in lotion, the water ratio
is higher, which is why the body butters are so much richer and thicker than lotions.
Lotions are for light moisturizing, and body butters are for deep moisturizing. Just
follow the body butter directions given earlier, and youll have perfect lotion every
time.
If, after your lotion has completely cooled, its too thin, you can fix that. Simply
reheat it to 110F and add another 1 percent of the mixtures total weight of the
melted emulsifying wax. Use the immersion blender to incorporate the emulsifying
wax, and let it totally cool again. Repeat until the lotion is as thick as you want.
PRETTY POINTER
Really love one of the lotion recipes, or not sure youll like it enough to use a
whole batch? Youre in luck! Each of the lotion recipes can be cut in half to make a
smaller batch or doubled if you want more.
Baby Lotion
This lotion is very gentle and soothing, and the cocoa butter helps protect babys
young, tender skin. Remember, using essential oils on babies is not recommended,
so choose a fragrance oil instead. This recipe makes 32 ounces (907.2 grams), or 4
(8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or 8 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) bottles.
Sunflower oil single infused
with calendula (herb)
Sunflower oil single infused
with chamomile (herb)
Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Aloe vera gel
Preservative

PRETTY POINTER
Oregon Trails has a soft baby fragrance called Sweet Innocence that I often use for
this recipe.
85
86
Light and Silky Lotion

I love this lotion for quick applications during the day when Ive been washing my
hands a lot. Its just enough to replace the moisture in my hands without making
them slippery. You can cut this recipe in half to make a smaller batch, or you can
double itor even double it several timesto make larger batches. This recipe makes
64 ounces (1,814.4 grams), or 4 (16-ounce; 453.6-gram) jars or 8 (8-ounce; 226.8
gram) bottles.
Sweet almond oil
Peach kernel oil
Avocado oil
Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Preservative

3 ounces (85 grams)
2.5 ounce (70.9 grams)
48 ounces (1,360.8 grams)
.6 ounce (17 grams)
pletely, and pour into sterile bottles.
Light and Lovely Lotion

This lotion is light yet gives you enough moisturizing to last all day. Make a gallon
and give as holiday gifts to your family and friends or dole out as party favors. You
can also halve this recipe as many times as you want to make a smaller batch. This
recipe makes 128 ounces (3,628.7 grams), or 8 (16-ounce; 453.6-gram) bottles or 16
(8-ounce; 226.8-gram) bottles or 32 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) bottles.
Sweet almond oil
Grapeseed oil
Apricot kernel oil
Peach kernel oil
Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Preservative
90 ounces (2,551.5 grams)
87
Super-Rich Lotion for Mature Skin

This is my favorite recipe! I use this lotion every day. Use it once a day, and your skin
will stay soft and moist all day long. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams), or 1
(16-ounce; 453.6-gram) bottle or 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) bottles.
Pumpkin seed oil
Peach kernel oil
Flaxseed oil
Shea butter (cosmetic grade)
Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Preservative

Moisturizer for Acne-Prone Skin

Just because you have acne or problem skin doesnt mean your skin never needs mois
turizing. Jojoba oil is very similar to our own natural sebum, so it tricks our body
into producing so much sebum, which helps clear the skin. Plus, jojoba oil doesnt
aggravate acne. This lotion gives just enough moisture to the skin to keep it soft. Its
also an excellent makeup remover! This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams), or 2
(2-ounce; 56.7-gram) bottles.
Jojoba oil
Tea tree essential oil

.04 ounce (1.2 milliliters; 30 drops)
.02 ounce (.6 milliliter; 10 drops)
1. Weigh the oil and add the essential oils.

2. Shake well and pour into a sterile bottle or bottles. Shake well again before each
use.
88
Making Body Powders

Body powders are nice and soothing, especially during the warm months. You can use
several types of natural powders as a base. Cornstarch and baking soda are inexpensive
and readily available in your local drugstore or grocery store.
Body powders are so easy to make, and because theyre very lightweight, 4 ounces
(113.4 grams)which is what these recipes makeis a lot of powder!
You dont need a lot of tools to make body powders:
ULarge mixing bowl
UScale
ULatex gloves
UShaker containers or jars
SAFETY FIRST
Please wear latex gloves while mixing with your hands. Even if you wash your
hands very thoroughly, there might still be germs and bacteria on your skin.
Simple After-Bath Powder

Using an after-bath powder helps keep you feeling fresh and dry for hours after youve
showered. This is a basic recipe you can add your own touches and tweaks to. This
recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams), or 3 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or shakers or
6 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) jars or shakers.
Cornstarch
Arrowroot
Baking soda
Tapioca starch
Fragrance oil or essential oil
1. Put a bowl on the scale and push the tare button to zero out the weight of the
bowl. Weigh each of your ingredients, and place them in a large bowl.
2. Use your hands to thoroughly mix all the dry ingredients.
3. Place a small glass or stainless-steel cup on the scale, and push the tare button
to zero out the weight of the cup. Weigh your fragrance oil.
89
4. Drizzle the fragrance slowly into the dry mixture, again using your hands to
work it into the powder mixture.
5. Package the powder in a sterile shaker container or a sterile jar that has a lid.
PRETTY POINTER
For the essential oil blend, try using lemon, sweet orange, and lime essential oils.
Yum!
Making Scrubs
Scrubs are excellent for exfoliating your whole body. You can use them in the bathtub
or shower to remove dead skin cells and make your whole body feel silky soft.
There are several ways to make scrubs. You can keep the sugar and oils separate and
only mix them when youre ready to use them, you can mix everything together at
once, or you can emulsify the sugar and oils. Whichever technique you choose to use,
Im sure youll agree that sugar scrubs leave your skin feeling soft and silky to the
touch.
In all these recipes, you can use sea salt in place of sugar. Please dont use salt in a
scrub meant to be used on the face, however. Salt can be too abrasive for the facial
skin, and it might lead to you scheduling an appointment with your dermatologist.
Heres what you need to make scrubs:
ULarge mixing bowl
USmall stainless-steel stockpot
USpoons
UElectric mixer
UScale
USeveral plastic containers for storage
USmall glass or stainless-steel cup
UStove or microwave
90
Wow! What a Scrub

This is my favorite sugar scrub. Youll love the way it leaves your skin feeling. I for
mulated this scrub several years ago when I first started teaching classes and used
this recipe in those first lessons. This recipe makes 32 ounces (907.2 grams), or
4 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or 8 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) jars.
Sweet almond oil
Grapeseed oil
Jojoba oil
Apricot kernel oil
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Cocoa butter
Shea butter
White or brown sugar
Preservative

1. Put a bowl on the scale and push the tare button to zero out the weight of the
bowl. Weigh each of your oils, and place them in a bowl to be added later.
2. Place the bowl back on the scale and push the tare button again. Weigh the
emulsifying wax, stearic acid, cocoa butter, and shea butter.
3. Place the waxes and butters in a small stockpot and place over low heat.
4. When the wax and butter have melted, add the oils. You can hand-stir this or
use your immersion blender to bring the oils and wax together. Let cool for
about 30 minutes.
5. Return to the scale and place the bowl back on the top. Push the tare button to
zero out the weight of the bowl. Now weigh your sugar.
6. Add the sugar to the pot of cooled oils and stir well. Let completely cool. Using
an electric mixer, whip the scrub for about 5 minutes until it is thick and fluffy.
7. Package in sterile jars or other airtight sterile containers.
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Simple Sugar Scrub

Have you ever treated yourself to a sugar scrub in the tub or shower? You should! Its
amazing how soft and silky your skin feels afterward. The sugar gently removes dead
skin, and the oils soften and rejuvenate the new skin under all the dead cells. This
basic recipe gets you startedand most likely hooked on sugar scrubs for life! This
Oil (your choice)
Preservative
Fragrance oil
Prepare as directed in the Wow! What a Scrub recipe.
Making Shower Scrub Cubes

Recently these fun little scrub cubes have become very popular among home-crafters.
These one-time-use shower scrub cubes fit into the palm of your hand, making them
easy to use in the shower. Wet your skin and then rub the sugar scrub cube all over
your body. Wait a few minutes before you completely rinse. Its as simple as that!
(Note: I didnt create this recipe; it was given to me by another soap-maker.)
Heres what you need to make shower scrub cubes:
USmall stainless-steel saucepan or microwaveable container
UScale
U1 large bowl and 1 smaller bowl
USeveral spoons
UStove or microwave
UElectric mixer
UA 66-inch plastic square container or a small muffin tin (You might want to try
using a meatball maker, but youd have to work quickly before the scrub sets up.)
UZipper-lock bags, 66 foil candy wrappers, or cello bags
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Shower Scrub Cubes

These are fun to make and wonderful to use! Because we use melt-and-pour soap,
this recipe makes a great and fun project to use with children. We did not formulate
this recipe, just tweaked it a little. For fun, try adding a few drops of skin-safe colo
rant. This recipe makes 24 (1-ounce; 28.4-gram) shower scrub cubes or 12 (2-ounce;
56.7-gram) cubes.
Oil(s) (your choice)
Clear melt-and-pour glycerin
soap base
Preservative

.6 ounce (17 grams)
1. Place a bowl on the scale and push the tare button. Weigh the first oil. Place it
in another bowl. Put the bowl back on the scale and push the tare button again
and weigh the next oil. Continue until youve weighed all your oils.
2. Place the bowl on the scales again and push tare. Weigh the melt-and-pour soap.
Place the soap in a small saucepan, and set over low heat. Be careful not to get
the soap too hot.
3. Once again place the bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the
sugar. Set it aside for now.
4. Once the soap base is completely melted, add the oils, sugar, and fragrance oil.
Use an electric mixer to whip it all together.
93
5. Add the preservative and colorant (if desired).

6. Spoon into the plastic container, smooth out flat, and press firmly, or spoon into
the muffin pan and press firmly.
7. Let set up for a few minutes and then, if in square container, cut into even-size
squares. Set out on waxed paper to continue hardening. If you used a muffin tin,
gently remove the cubes from tin and continue to let harden on waxed paper.
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PRETTY POINTER
To add a little more oomph to this scrub, instead of a single oil, try blending sweet
almond oil, grapeseed oil, and apricot kernel oil. You can use equal parts or more
or less of the oils. And if you use white sugar, you can also use a few drops of food
coloring or skin-safe colorant to color the cubes.
Making Milk Baths

Milk baths are very simple to make. And I use the powdered milk from the grocery
store to make it even easier! All you have to do is weigh the ingredients, pour them
into your bowl, mix it all together, and youre done! Store the bath in a plastic con
tainer or in cello bags. Add 1 2 cup (115 grams) of milk bath to your bathwater.
Heres what you need to make milk baths:
ULarge mixing bowl
USpoon
UScale
ULatex gloves
ULarge food-type airtight plastic container or cello bags
Luscious Milk Bath

We have always heard about the benefits of milk baths. This is a simple and quick
recipe for making a powdered milk bath you will surely love. Package in cello bags
and give as gifts to your friends and family. Or use an airtight container and keep by
your bathtub for those special me times. This recipe makes 42.5 ounces (1,204.9
grams).
Powdered milk
Baking soda
Cornstarch
Sweet almond oil (or your choice)
Preservative
1. Place a bowl on the scale and push the tare button. Weigh all the dry ingredients
one at a time and put them in a mixing bowl. Set aside. Remember to push the
tare button each time you place the bowl back on the scale.
95
2. Weigh the liquids the same way you did the dry ingredients. Drizzle the liquids
into the dry mixture.
3. Using your hands (and wearing latex gloves), mix everything together until the
liquids are well distributed throughout the mixture.
4. Package in cello bags or in an airtight container.
Making Bath Tea

Bath teas are made by blending several dried herbs and packaging them in heat
sealable tea bags or in muslin drawstring bags. If you use muslin bags, youll need to
refill them before each use. To use, simply toss a tea bag in the tub while the bath
water is running. If youre using the muslin bags, you can hang them over the water
faucet under the running water as the tub fills. Then just leave the tea bag in the tub
while you soak and bathe.
Heres what you need to make bath teas:
UScale
U1 large bowl and 1 small bowl
ULatex gloves
ULarge sealable tea bags or muslin bags
USpoon
UIron
Floral Bath Tea

Relax in a warm tub of water while enjoying the blended fragrance of roses, lavender,
chamomile, and calendula. Let the fragrance carry you back to warm summer days in
the garden. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams).
Dried rose buds
Dried lavender buds
Dried chamomile flowers
Dried calendula flowers
1. Place a bowl on your scale and push the tare button. Weigh your dried flowers
one at a time, and place them in a large bowl. Remember to push the tare button
after you replace your bowl each time.
96
2. Wearing latex gloves on your hands, mix all the flowers together.
3. If youre using the large sealable tea bags, scoop out about 1 tablespoon (14.8
milliliters) and place it in the middle of one side of the flat bag. Fold the bag
over and line up the edges. Use an iron on low setting to seal the edges of the
tea bags.
If using muslin bags, scoop out about 1 4 cup (59.2 milliliters) and fill the muslin
bag. Draw the string tight, and tie in a tiny knot.
PRETTY POINTER
You can make a large batch of tea bags and store them in an airtight container
until youre ready to use them.
Making Bath Oils

I love making bath oils, and I love using them even more! For my bath oils, I always
use Turkey red oil (red castor oil) because it wont leave a ring around the tub. If you
have an herb garden, youre going to have lots of fun infusing your herbs in the oils
to make incredible herbal bath oils. These make wonderful gifts, too! When ready to
use, just pour about 1 2 ounce (14.2 grams) of oil in your tub as you fill it with water.
Heres what you need to make bath oils:
UScale
USterile bottles
UFunnel
Lavender Bath Oil

This bath oil is very good for children who have attention deficit/hyperactivity
disorder (ADHD). It relaxes them and helps them get a better nights sleep, which
means a better day tomorrow. My grandson Shawn had a warm lavender bath every
night. It calmed him and he would be ready for bed the minute he got out of the tub.
Use 1 ounce (28.4 grams) to 1 2 ounce (14.2 grams) per warm bath. This recipe makes
just over 8 ounces (226.8 grams).
Turkey red oil
Sweet almond oil (or your choice)

Preservative
97

1. Place a small measuring cup on the scale and push the tare button to zero out
the weight of the cup. Weigh the Turkey red oil.
2. Using the funnel, pour the oil into a sterile 8-ounce (226.8-gram) bottle. Scrape
as much of the oil as you can out of the cup.
3. Put the cup back on the scale and once again push the tare button. Weigh the
next oil and again use the funnel to pour it into the bottle. Repeat until all the
oils have been poured into the bottle, including the scent and preservative.
4. Shake the bottle to mix all the oils together completely. Put the lid on it, and
you are done!
Basic Bath Oil

In this basic bath oil recipe, you can choose your own scent or scent blend. (Weve
listed a few blends for you to try in the next section.) You can also blend your favorite
oils to make this recipe more your own. Just keep the ratios the same. You can double
this as many times as you like to make the batch size you want. This recipe makes
8 ounces (226.8 grams).
Turkey red oil
Sweet almond oil
Grapeseed oil

Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Lavender Bath Oil recipe.
Making Fragrance Blends

On our Yahoo! group, ApplesNBerries, we are lucky to have Alex Crow, a.k.a. the
happy blender, who is well known for his blending skills. Alex has written many
articles for Cowboys Corner, part of the Apples, Woods and Berries website. He
has graciously given us permission to include a few of his wonderful blends so you can
enjoy using them to make your bath oil very special. Alex has also written an e-book
explaining how to make your own fragrance oil blends.
98
These recipes are all written in parts so you can make the blend in the amount you
need for your project. One part can be anything from 1 teaspoon (4.9 milliliters) to 1
pound (453.6 grams) or even more.
These blends, all made using fragrance oils, are suitable for all bath and body prod
ucts and soap.
Moonlit Tango Fragrance Blend

Soft floral, but with sweet notes from the hibiscus, this blend is very light and airy.
1 part moonlight path
1 part hibiscus
St. Louis Slide Fragrance Blend

Creamy caramel and vanilla from Crme Brle pair well with the tart notes of
pomegranate.
2 parts crme brle
1 part pomegranate
English Porcelain Fragrance Blend

English heather is grounded by the bottom notes of soft and spicy myrrh.
2 parts myrrh
1 part English heather
Christmas Rose Fragrance Blend

This blend captures the magic of a spicy white rose, blooming in the frost.
2 parts white roses
1 part holiday memories
Pearl of the East Fragrance Blend

The soft floral of the cherry blossom and the sensuous warmth of sandalwood make
this an exotic blend.
2 parts sandalwood
1 part white cherry blossom
99
Making Bath Bombs

Bath bombs are a fun way to add a few skin-softening ingredients and fragrance to
your bath. When tossed in a tub of water, they fizz until theyve dissolved. Children
love them, but theyre not only for childrenus big kids love them, too!
Making bath bombs can be very frustrating at times. Ive made beautiful bombs,
laid them out to dry, and then had them start growing because it rained or it became
too humid. I have smooshed them into candy molds and used a meat baller to form
perfect balls, but my best success has been with the bath bomb tapper. You can find
them online for around $6.
All bath bombs are made pretty much the same. Theres very little difference among
recipes. Play with the recipe weve given you, and find the oil and molding method
you prefer. You may or may not want to dry them in your oven. Its purely a matter of
what process you like best.
Heres what youll need to make bath bombs:
ULarge stainless-steel bowl
UElectric mixer
USmall jar with lid
UCookie sheet
ULatex gloves
UMold, either a candy mold or a bath bomb tapper
U66 foil candy wrappers
UColorant (optional)
Bath Bomb
This is a basic recipe for bath bombs used by many hand-crafters. We learned a trick
from Sandra Morrow thats made a huge difference in how well our bombs turn out:
she taught us to hold the citric acid back from the mixture until the liquid has already
been well mixed in. This stops the fizzing that would happen when the liquid was
added. 100 percent improvement! This recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams), or 12
(2-ounce; 56.7-gram) bombs or 24 (1-ounce; 28.4-gram) bombs.
Citric acid
(Save the citric acid to add
after youve added the liquid.)
100
The dry ingredients:

Cornstarch
Baking soda

The wet ingredients:

Sweet almond oil
Turkey red oil (red castor oil)
Distilled water
Skin-safe colorant, if desired

1

1
1. Place a bowl on your scale and push the tare button. Weigh the citric acid, and
set it aside for now.
2. Weigh the cornstarch and place it in the large bowl. Repeat this with the baking
soda. Mix together and set aside.
3. Measure the wet ingredients and pour into the small jar. If youre adding colo
rant, add it to this mixture in the small jar. Screw the lid on the jar, and shake it.
4. Slowly drizzle the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, and stir for a min
ute. With an electric mixer on low, mix for several minutes to ensure the wet
ingredients are evenly incorporated into the dry ingredients.
101
5. Add the citric acid, and continue mixing to distribute the citric acid throughout
the bath bomb mixture.
6. Press the bomb mixture into a candy mold or use the bath bomb tapper to form
your bath bombs. They dont need to sit very long in a candy mold, but if theyre
not packed tight enough, they sometimes fall apart when turned out on a cookie
sheet. Arrange your bombs on a cookie sheet.
102
7. Preheat the oven to 170F or the lowest setting. When the oven is hot, turn it
off, and place the cookie sheet with bombs in the oven. Close the door and let sit
for 1 hour to harden and dry the bombs.
8. Remove bombs from the oven and let sit for several days to dry completely.
Wrap each bath bomb in a candy foil.
IN THE MIRROR
Why are the ingredients for this recipe measured in teaspoons and milliliters
rather than ounces? Quite simply, because theyre old recipes and no one has ever
changed from this method. When it works, we leave it as it is!
Making Jelly Soap for Kids

My grandchildren love this slippery, floppy jelly soap. Its easy to make and fun for
them to use. Simply store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator and break off
a piece for the kids at bath time. (Note: I did not create this recipe; it was given to me
by another soap-maker.)
Heres what you need to make jelly soap:
UBowl
UScale
USaucepan or microwavable container
UTeakettle or microwavable container
UStove or microwave
USpoon
USquare plastic container for mold
Bath-Time Jelly Soap for Kids

This is another recipe thats fun for children to make and even more fun for them to
use. Use cookie cutters to make creepy crawlies for little boys, and watch them hap
pily run to the tub with their bug. Add a dash of fine glitter and colorant to make
it pretty for the little girls in your life. This bath jelly soap makes bath time loads of
funand big kids like it, too! This recipe makes 22 ounces (623.7 grams).
Unflavored gelatin
Boiling water
1 (14 -ounce; 7.1-gram) envelope
Clear melt-and-pour soap base

or clear liquid soap
Fragrance oil
Preservative
Several skin-safe colorants
or food coloring
103

few drops
1. Pour the gelatin in the bowl and set aside.

2. Weigh 16 ounces (453.6 grams) water and bring to a boil in a tea kettle over
medium heat or in a microwave. Slowly pour water into the bowl with the
gelatin. Gently stir mixture as it sets up.
3. Weigh and melt the melt-and-pour soap in a saucepan over low heat or in the
microwave oven, using short, 1-minute spurts until the soap base has completely
melted. Continue to stir the gelatin and water.
4. Add the melt-and-pour soap to the bowl with the gelatin. Add fragrance and
preservative, and stir well.
5. Pour the soap into the mold. Add your colorants, and swirl them around in the
soap. Place uncovered container in the refrigerator until firm.
6. Remove container and cut into bar shapes or little pieces. You can even use a
cookie cutter to cut shapes. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
t Bath products can be fun to make and relaxing to useespecially when you make
them yourself!
t Dont forget that these products will need preservatives. Use Appendix E to help
you choose the right preservative for the bath products youre making.
t After youve made the bath product you want to use first, find a few candles for
the bathroom and turn on some soothing music. It will revive you after a busy day!
Creating Mineral
Makeup
Part
Part 3 is all about makeup, and youll find recipes for everything you need to look
your best in the following chapters.
We start off with the easy-to-follow color grinds for foundations. Our mineral makeup
foundation is so light you wont even notice it on your skin, yet it offers superb cover
age. Then we share recipes for making concealers and correctors, followed by lots of
bronzers and blushesthree color tones for every color group. Next, we look at eyes.
Youll find beautiful color grinds for all sorts of eye shadows, and from there, you
learn to make eyeliners and mascara. Finally, we read your lips: with recipes for lip
stick, balms, and more, all with loads of luscious color grinds for every color group.
In all, we give you more than 80 color grinds for lips, eyes, and cheeks in Part 3.
Once you have learned how to make color grinds using our recipes, you will be able
to create your own colors.
Chapter
Mineral Makeup
In This Chapter
t Making color grinds for your perfect shade
t DIY foundations
t Covering things up with color correctors and concealers
t Pressing your mineral makeup
Once you try mineral makeup, youll understand why so many women love it. Its so
light, it feels like you have nothing on your face, yet it stays on your skin until you
take it off. I love the natural look mineral makeup provides. For more mature women
like me, the mineral makeup lays over our fine lines instead of in them. That gives us
all a younger appearance. Mineral makeup is also more forgiving than commercial
foundations because you dont have to match your skin tone as closely.
This all sounds wonderful, doesnt it? It is, as youll soon see.
The Basics of Making Mineral Makeup

It took about 2 years to work out the color grinds for the foundation and another year
or so to perfect the grinds for the blush, bronzer, eye shadow, and lipstick recipes in
this book. (See Chapter 9 for more on blushes and bronzers, Chapter 10 for more on
eye shadows, and Chapter 11 for more on lipsticks.) Experimenting certainly can get
frustratingduring the early days, everything had an orange color, and the founda
tions definitely had that Bozo the Clown look. Then it all went to the far side and
was too yellow. Finally, it all came together.
This chapter is full of what weve learned from our experiences. We share the basic
blend tones, called color grinds, so you can match your skin type and create your
perfect shade. It wont be hard because you have all the formulas and directions weve
108
Part 3:Creating Mineral Makeup
worked out to help you. You may have to blend several of the grinds together to
achieve the exact shade you want, but thats just part of the fun!
Many of these recipes are in several parts. You make your color grind and then you
make your base filler, which is white, separately. When you have both made, you add
a percentage of the color grind to a percentage of the base filler, grind them together,
and you have your foundation!
BEAUTY BIT
Color grinds are micas and oxides blended together by grinding in an electric
coffee grinder or with a mortar and pestle to create a new color. The micas and
oxides have to be very finely ground together.
Heres what you need to make mineral makeup:

U30-gram shifter jars
UScale (one that weighs to the 100th is great)
UMeasuring spoons and small scoops
U3mm pipettes
UFace mask
ULatex gloves
UWaxed paper
UCoffee grinder or mortar and pestle
U6-inch dowel rods the diameter of your containers (for making pressed powder)
or TKB Trading pressing tools
IN THE MIRROR
A Mr. Coffee brand coffee grinder blends the oxides and micas quickly and com
pletely. Its inexpensiveabout $20and easy to clean. Get a second grinder if
you want to use one for food. For safety, keep one only for your mineral makeup.
And you might be wondering if you can use eyedroppers instead of pipettes. You
could, but theyre difficult to clean for the next use.
In the time since I started writing this book, Kaila at TKB Trading has stocked some
very helpful pressing tools and also a liquid binder for pressing. This can replace the
extra drops of jojoba oil. I couldnt wait to get my hands on the pressing tools, so as
soon as they came in I ordered several sizes. She has added pressing ribbon, too. It not
Chapter 8:Mineral Makeup
109
only makes a professional-looking finish on the top of the product, but also helps cut
down on the mess. Of course I had to have that, too! I love them both, and I recom
mend you try themsoon!
Your Work Area

Before we continue, we must reinforce the importance of keeping your work area
clean and sanitizing all your containers. Even if these products are only for yourself,
you still need to have everything bacteria-free and also use a preservative that kills
bacteria and germs. You dont want to end up with a skin or eye infection because of
an unknown bacteria in your makeup!
You can use white vinegar or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide to clean your workspace.
Neither will leave any harmful chemicals that could accidentally contaminate your
cosmetics.
Before you start making anything, wipe your counter or workspace with a clean rag
or paper towel soaked in vinegar or hydrogen peroxide. Then place a piece of waxed
paper on your work area to help make cleanup quick and easy.
Wash all your containers, spoons, knives, and any other equipment youll use with
hot, soapy water. Let them air-dry. When theyre dry, clean the inside of jars, lids,
and other containers with alcohol. Let them air-dry again. When theyre dry, put
them in a zipper-lock bag until youre ready to use them.
I also keep a roll of paper towels and a bottle of alcohol right next to me while Im
working so I can wipe a spoon or a knife when needed. You can never be too clean
when making beauty products!
SAFETY FIRST
When making cosmetics, be sure to wear a dust mask and latex gloves. You can
accidently breathe in the dust from the micas, oxides, and fine powders. Also,
even though youve washed your hands, they may still have germs on the surface.
Better to be safe now than sorry later!
Making Pressed Powders

The very name pressed powder indicates youll need to press it somehow. In this case,
you press it firmly into the container. You pack it in so its almost a solid. To do this,
you need a tamper, or something to gently pound down the powder. Weve found a
wooden dowel rod works best for this. This will mean a trip to your local hardware
store. Take your empty container with you so you can get the correct size dowel.
110
Look for a dowel thats the same diameter as your container. It needs to fit snugly
into the jar without much wiggle room around the sides. Then find a store employee
and ask him or her to cut your dowel into 6-inch pieces. This gives you separate
dowels for each powder color so you dont have to mix the dowels and risk ruining the
color.
SAFETY FIRST
Sand the ends of the dowel after its been cut. You dont want any little splintered
wood pieces in your pressed powders!
Getting the right amount of jojoba oil to hold the pressed powders together and not
be too oily is a little tricky. Too much jojoba oil, and the powder will stick to the
dowel. Too little, and it wont hold the powder together. Heres what seems to work
best:
1. After youve blended the makeup and added the 1 4 teaspoon (1.2 milliliters)
jojoba oil and the preservative, use a pipette to add 2 more drops jojoba oil.
Blend for at least 1 minute.
2. Then using the same pipette, add 4 more drops jojoba oil, and grind the
powders for another minute.
3. Spoon some of the powder into the jar, and using your dowel and a small
hammer or something to tap on the top of the dowel, gently tap on the end
of the dowel, pressing the powders into the jar.
111
4. Add more powder, and repeat until the jar is full.

5. When the jar is just about full, add the last amount of powder. Then place
a pressing ribbon or a small piece of fabric on top, and press to give your
pressed powders a nice finish.
These powders will still break and crumble if theyre carried loose in a purse, but
theyll hold together well otherwise.
TKB Trading has special tools and ribbon for pressing your powders. These are inex
pensive and easy to use. They also have a new liquid binder for pressing the powders.
Check them out at tkbtrading.com.
Making Mineral Foundations

Now for the fun stuff! The first thing you want to choose is the type of coverage you
want for your foundation. I have three types:
USheer
UMedium
UMaximum coverage
This base filler makes up the largest part of your foundation and is what you add
the color grind to. The base filler is just a start, and you may want to add or omit
ingredients later.
The base filler recipes yield 4 ounces (113.4 grams). That makes up 75 to 90 percent
of your foundation recipe. If you dont want 4 ounces (113.4 grams) filler, just cut the
amount for each ingredient in half and make 2 ounces (56.7 grams).
IN THE MIRROR
These recipes usually go over the 100 percent amount because we usually dont
count the preservative and/or fragrance in formulations. I like to use Optiphen
Plus preservative. Its paraben- and formaldehyde-free.
Heres what you need to make mineral foundations:

UScale (one that weighs to the 100th is great)
UFace mask
ULatex gloves
112
UWaxed paper
USmall paper cups
U6-inch dowel rods the diameter of your containers (for making pressed powder) or
TKB Trading pressing tools
UZipper-lock bag or 30-gram shifter jar
Natural Sheer Base Filler

This almost-transparent base is the best for young skin that just needs a little color
in the evening. This is also the filler base recipe we use for the bronzers. You can cut
this in half or double it to make a larger amount. This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4
grams) base filler.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Silk mica or rice powder
Magnesium stearate
Zinc oxide
Preservative

1. Put on your face mask and gloves, and put a piece of waxed paper over your
work area.
2. Set your scale to grams, put a small cup on the scale, and push the tare button.
3. Weigh the first ingredient, and pour it into the grinder bowl or mortar.
4. Replace the cup on the scale, push the tare button again, and continue weighing
all the ingredients except the preservative.
5. Put the grinder bowl on the grinder, and grind in short spurts for 1 minute. If
youre using a mortar and pestle, hand-grind the powders for several minutes.
What you should see is an intense skin-tone color.
6. Add the preservative, and grind again in short spurts for 2 minutes. If using a
mortar and pestle, grind for 4 or 5 minutes.
7. Store the base filler in a zipper-lock bag or a clean jar until youre ready to mix
it with a color grind.
113
Medium-Coverage Base Filler

This is a medium-coverage finish that offers a little more coverage than the sheer but
not as much as the maximum. If you want, you can cut this recipe in half or double it
to make a larger amount. This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams) base filler.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Sericite mica
Magnesium stearate
Zinc oxide
Preservative

.6 ounce (17 grams)
Prepare as directed in the Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe.
Maximum-Coverage Base Filler

This base filler gives the best coverage for mature or acne-scarred skin. Its the one I
use. If you like, you can cut this recipe in half or double it to make a larger amount.
This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams) base filler.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Sericite mica
Silk mica
Magnesium stearate
Zinc oxide
Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe.
IN THE MIRROR
All iron oxides and micas are synthetically made and duplicated exactly from
the natural oxides and micas found in the earth. This is done so all the colorants
are sterile and dont contain contaminants. The Food and Drug Administration
lists these synthetic iron oxides and micas as color additives that are safe, so
they dont have to be listed on the product label. However, lake dyes and FD&C
colorants do have to be listed on labels even though theyre approved for eyes,
lips, face, or nails.
114
Making Color Grinds

These grinds are the second part of the foundationthe color partand make up
10 to 25 percent of your foundation. Its best to use a coffee bean grinder for these
(theyre faster and better at grinding evenly), but you also can use a mortar and pestle.
When deciding on a color, choose one that best describes your skin tone. Here are
some common ingredients youll use:
UTitanium dioxide (white)
UYellow oxide (mustard yellow)
URed oxide (true red)
URed oxideblue shade (maroon red)
UBlack oxide (very dark black)
UBrown oxide (reddish brown)
UDark brown oxide (brown with black)
UChromium green oxide (medium green, not teal)
UUltramarine blue (bright blue)
UUltramarine violet (medium purple/violet, for color corrector)
UFrench or rose talc (translucent white)
UJojoba oil (clear or golden)
To make more foundation colors, you can blend any of these grinds with the filler
base. You can also use these oxides to make your concealers and color correctors.
After youve made your basic blend (instructions follow), test it on your skin in natural
light. Rub some of the foundation on the inside of your forearm, and hold it in direct
sunlight. If the foundation isnt dark enough, go back and add a little more ivory color
grind and grind again. Continue doing this until you have the correct color.
IN THE MIRROR
Between the fifteenth and nineteenth centuries, it was very fashionable to whiten
your face. The whiter the face, the idea went, the wealthier the person was, and
therefore didnt need to spend time outdoors doing chores. During that time,
most women whitened their faces using a mixture of carbonate, hydroxide, and
lead oxide. Yuck!
115
Heres what you need to make color grinds:

UScale
ULatex gloves
UCoffee grinder or mortar and

pestle
UPaper towels
UTiny scoops
USmall paper cups
U3mm pipettes
UFace mask
UBottle of 3 percent alcohol
U30-gram sifter jars
UOxides
U6-inch dowel rods
UWaxed paper
These recipes are all written in grams because of the tiny amounts used for many of
the colors in creating each blend.
Ivory Color Grind

This is a light ivory blend with touches of yellow. To cut the yellow undertones, you
can use the violet corrector under this foundation to give you a more neutral skin
tone. This recipe makes about 1 ounce (28.4 grams) color grind.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Yellow oxide
Red oxide
15.8 grams
7.4 grams
4 grams
.4 gram
Brown oxide
Preservative
.4 gram
work area.
2. Set your scale to grams, put a small cup on the scale, and push the tare button.
3. Weigh the first ingredient, and pour it into the grinder bowl or mortar.
4. Replace the cup on the scale, push the tare button again, and continue weighing
all the ingredients except the preservative.
5. Put the grinder bowl on the grinder, and grind in short spurts for 1 minute. If
youre using a mortar and pestle, hand-grind the powders for several minutes.
What you should see is an intense skin-tone color.
116
6. Add the preservative and grind again in short spurts for 2 minutes. If using a
mortar and pestle, grind for 4 or 5 minutes.
To make your foundation, youll combine the color grinds and a base filler. This will
make 1 ounce (28.4 grams) foundation. Package in a zipper-lock bag or a 30-gram
sifter jar.
work area.
2. Place a small paper cup on the scale, and push the tare button to zero out the
weight of the cup. Weigh .8 ounce (22.7 grams) your choice of base filler. Pour it
into the grinder bowl or mortar.
3. Place a clean paper cup on the scale and again push the tare button. Weigh .2
ounce (5.7 grams) color grind. Pour into grinder bowl or mortar.
4. If youre using a grinder, grind for 1 minute in short spurts. If youre using a
mortar and pestle, hand-grind the powders for several minutes. Rub some of the
foundation on the inside of your forearm and look at it in sunlight. Make adjust
ments by adding a little more color grind or base filler. Grind again. Check the
color again in sunlight. Do this until your color is right for your skin tone. Be
sure to make notes about how much extra grind or filler base you added so next
time you wont have to do so much adjusting.
5. Add 1 4 teaspoon (1.2 milliliters) jojoba oil, plus the extra drops, if desired, for
pressing your foundation. Grind again as before.
6. Store unused color grind and base filler in jars or zipper-lock bags.
PRETTY POINTER
If you have an ivory skin tone that has pink tones, change the red oxide in this
recipe to 0.6 gram and add 0.2 gram ultramarine blue.
Sand Tone Color Grind

This color grind is for light olive skin with yellow undertones. This recipe makes
about 1 ounce (28.4 grams) color grind.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
15.4 grams
6.3 grams
Yellow oxide
3.6 grams
Brown oxide
Red oxide
1.2 grams
.8 gram
Ultramarine blue
Black oxide
Preservative
.4 gram
.3 gram
117
Prepare as directed in the Ivory Color Grind recipe.
Gold Tone Color Grind

This is for light to medium olive skin tones with a gold undertone. This recipe makes
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Yellow oxide
Brown oxide
Red oxide
Preservative
13.1 grams
6.3 grams
7.9 grams
.4 gram
.3 gram
Sun Deep Gold Color Grind

This grind is for darker-medium warm golden skin tones with a yellow undertone.
This recipe makes about 1 ounce (28.4 grams) color grind.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Yellow oxide
Red oxide
Black oxide
Preservative
14.9 grams
6.3 grams
5.3 grams
1.1 grams
.4 gram
118
Honey Russet Color Grind

This grind is for medium-warm skin tones with a red undertone. This recipe makes
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Yellow oxide
Red oxide
Black oxide
Preservative
12.4 grams
6.3 grams
5.4 grams
3.9 grams
.4 gram
Olive Color Grind

This grind is for the deeper, neutral olive tones. This recipe makes about 1 ounce
(28.4 grams) color grind.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Yellow oxide
Red oxideblue shade
Red oxide
Chromium green oxide
Black oxide
Brown oxide
Ultramarine blue
Preservative
12.8 grams
5.5 grams
5.5 grams
1.2 grams
1.1 grams
.6 gram
.5 gram
.4 gram
.4 gram
Rose Tones Color Grind

This grind is for the rosy tones. This recipe makes about 1 ounce (28.4 grams) color
grind.
French or rose talc
13.8 grams
Titanium dioxide
7.8 grams
Yellow oxide
Red oxide
3.5 grams
1.9 grams
Red oxideblue shade

Ultramarine blue
Preservative
.8 gram
.5 gram
119
Bronze Color Grind

This grind is for medium- to deep-brown tones. This recipe makes about 1 ounce
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Yellow oxide
Red oxide
Black oxide
Preservative
14.2 grams
6.3 grams
5.8 grams
1.4 grams
.3 gram
Making Color Correctors

Many of us have too much red or yellow in our skin tones. For these skin tone prob
lems, its color correctors to the rescue. Simply apply these little wonders after youve
applied your moisturizer and before your foundation. For the ruddy tone (red), use
the green corrector, and for a sallow (yellow) skin tone, apply the violet color correc
tor. For dark circles under your eyes, use the yellow corrector. Use in problem areas
or all over your face, and youll really tell the difference.
Heres what you need to make color correctors:
U30-gram sifter jar
UScale
UPaper cups
U3mm pipettes
U6-inch dowels the diameter of the jars
120
PRETTY POINTER
If you suffer from rosacea, using the green corrector under your foundation where
the skin is discolored can help balance your skin tone and minimize the redness.
Green Color Corrector

Use this color corrector on red tones or red spots and blotches. This recipe makes
1 ounce (28.4 grams) color corrector.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Chromium green oxide
Yellow oxide
Jojoba oil
Preservative
13.5 grams
7.3 grams
3.4 grams
4 grams
1
work area.
2. Set your scale to grams, put one of the small cups on the scale, and push the
tare button. Weigh the first powder, and pour it into the grinder bowl or
mortar.
3. Replace the cup on the scale, push the tare button, and continue until youve
weighed all the ingredients except the jojoba oil and preservative.
4. Place in the grinder and grind in short spurts for 1 minute. If youre using a
mortar and pestle, hand-grind the powders for several minutes.
5. Add the jojoba oil and preservative. Grind again in short spurts for 2 minutes. If
youre using a mortar and pestle, grind for 4 or 5 minutes.
6. Fill a sterile 30-gram sifter jar.
Violet Color Corrector

Use this color corrector on yellow tones. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams)
color corrector.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
17 grams
6 grams
Ultramarine violet
5.4 grams
121
Jojoba oil
Preservative

Prepare as directed in the Green Color Corrector recipe.
Yellow Color Corrector

Use this color corrector on blue areas such as dark circles under eyes. This recipe
makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams) color corrector.
French or rose talc
Titanium dioxide
Yellow oxide
Jojoba oil
Preservative
16.1 grams
8.1 grams
4.1 grams
1
Prepare as directed in the Green Color Corrector recipe.
Making Concealer
We all need a little extra coverage once in a while and would rather not look like
we have plaster on our faces. For these times and other special small areas, we use
a concealer. Concealer is very simple to make and just as simple to use. After youve
used your moisturizer, apply the concealer before you put on your foundation. You
can double these recipes as many times as you want to make the batch size you want.
Heres what you need to make concealer:
UScale
UPaper cups
U30-gram sifter jar
U6-inch dowels the diameter of the jar
122
Concealer
You can make your own personalized concealer from the color grind youve matched
to your skin tone earlier in this chapter and with the same base filler. Mix these
5050 with the jojoba oil. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams) concealer.
Base filler
Color grind
Jojoba oil
14.2 grams
14.2 grams
1
work area.
2. Weigh and place all ingredients in a grinder or mortar, and blend very well.
3. Store concealer in a 30-gram sifter jar. Apply to face, using a makeup brush,
after your moisturizer and before your foundation. Use your makeup brush to
blend the concealer well. You dont want any makeup lines or blotches.
PRETTY POINTER
If you feel you need a little more coverage, you can apply more concealer over your
foundation. You can also use the base filler that has more coverage, if you desire.
t Look at your skin in the sunlight and decide which color grind best describes your
skin tone. Roll up your sleeves and get started!
t Making your own mineral makeup is doable with our easy-to-follow step-by-step
instructions.
t Once you try mineral makeup, youll never go back to any other kind. It feels like
you have nothing on your face and looks so natural, too!
Chapter
Blushes and Bronzers
In This Chapter
t Blushes for that beautiful, healthy look
t Bronzers for a healthy glowwithout all the other makeup
Dont you love how your face looks (and how you feel!) when you have a little color in
your cheeks? In this chapter, we share several color grinds for blushes and bronzers to
give you that little extra something.
And heres a bonus: theyre easier to make than the foundations in Chapter 8! If you
worked through Chapter 8, youll be a step ahead here because you blend blushes and
bronzers very similarly to how you blended the foundations.
The Basics of Making Blush

To help you choose the right blush for your skin tone, think what color your skin
turns when you are flushed or embarrassed. Blushing is when the blood rushes to the
surface of the skin. Your blush, therefore, should reflect those color tones for a more
natural look. Someone with fair skin blushes pink. They do not blush plum.
Heres what you need to make blush:
UTKB Trading Matte Texture Base
USet of 5 TKB stainless-steel measuring spoons (Tad, Dash, Pinch, Smidgen, and
Drop sizes)
UScale
U3mm pipettes
124
UAlcohol or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide

USeveral small paper cups
UFace mask
ULatex gloves
UPaper towels
UWaxed paper
U6-inch dowel rods the diameter of the jars (for making pressed powder)
IN THE MIRROR
Besides using a scale for weighing the colorants, I also frequently use a set of five
stainless-steel measuring spoons (not the set of three) sold at TKB Trading. These
little measuring spoons are very small and called Tad, Dash, Pinch, Smidgen, and
Drop. Sometimes you only need a Pinch or a Dash or a Smidgen, and the scale
just cant weigh that tiny amount. Also, its hard to weigh an odd amount, such as
.24 grams oxide. Using the Pinch spoon, you can do it easily! When you see Tad,
Dash, Pinch, Smidgen, and Drop in the ingredient lists, please note that these are
referring to these measuring spoons. (See Appendix D for ordering info.)
As mentioned earlier, cleanliness is very important when it comes to making beauty

products. Be sure you wash your jars and utensils in hot, soapy water and let air-dry.
Then swish alcohol in the containers, lids, sifters, and bowl of the grinder or mortar.
Let them air-dry again. Put the jar pieces in zipper-lock bags until youre ready to fill
them.
Clean your workspace with vinegar or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, and cover your
work surface with waxed paper. Keep a bottle of alcohol and a roll of paper towels
handy for quick wipes or cleanups. These oxides and micas can be messy!
If youre making pressed blushes and bronzers, youll need a tamping rod (see Chap
ter 8).
Making Color Grinds for Blushes

You will want to pick a color grind that goes with your skin tone. If you dont know
what color your cheeks are when youre flushed, you can pinch and gently slap them
until the blood comes to the surface. Dont do this to the point of causing bruises!
Do it just enough so you can see the color tone. Matching that color for your blush
makes the most becoming and natural look on you.
Chapter 9:Blushes and Bronzers
125
I buy all my oxides and micas from TKB Trading (see Appendix D) and have used the
exact name of each mica and oxide so youll know which one to use to get the exact
color for these grinds. If there is too much sparkle in your color grind, just add a
little more of the TKB Matte Texture Base, and that should do the trick. Some micas
have more sparkle than others.
Each of the following recipes makes about 1 ounce (28.4 grams) blush and will fill a
30-gram sifter jar. If you press the blush, you may want to double the recipe so it fills
the jar completely. There will be a little left over after pressing.
SAFETY FIRST
Its very important to use an across-the-board preservative in these products,
one that kills germs and bacteria. I recommend Optiphen Plus. Its paraben- and
formaldehyde-free. (See Appendix E for more on preservatives.)
Pink Tones
These are best suited for those whose skin tone matches the Ivory Color Grind in
Chapter 8, and theyre great blushes for young teens.
Sweet Valentine Blush

A soft, medium true pink. This blush goes on light and will add just a healthy touch
of pink to the cheeks. Its best suited for very fair skin. This recipe makes 1 ounce
(28.4 grams).
Titanium dioxide
Magnesium Violet
Yellow oxide
Red oxide
2 Tads
Ultramarine Blue
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Rice powder or silk mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1 Tad
.035 ounce (1 gram; 1 milliliter)
work area.
126
2. Set your scale to grams or ounces, place a small cup or bowl on the scale, and
push the tare button. This zeroes out the weight of the container.
3. Weigh the first oxide or mica. Transfer it to your coffee grinder or mortar. Put
the cup or bowl back on the scale, and again push the tare button. Continue
weighing each colorant in the recipe until you have each one transferred and
ready to grind.
4. Grind the colorants for several seconds. Check your color by rubbing a little of
the blend on the back of your hand.
5. Add the jojoba oil and the preservative to the coffee grinder or mortar, and
grind for 1 minute. Shake the bowl around to redistribute the powder, and grind
for another minute. If youre making pressed blush, add 6 to 10 extra drops
jojoba oil (using the 3mm pipette), and grind again.
6. Fill your 30-gram sifter jar by spooning in a little powder at a time. If youre
pressing the powder, pack it in using the 6-inch dowel tamper. Spoon half the
powder into the jar, and press down with the dowel, using something to tap
on the top of the dowel to press the powder tight. Fill the jar with the rest of
the powder and repeat tapping with the dowel. Alternatively, you can leave the
powder loose and just use a spoon to fill the sifter jar.
7. Place the lid on the jar, and store it until youre ready to use.
SAFETY FIRST
Working with micas and oxides can be very messy. Because theyre so lightweight,
they easily float in the air, and they can end up in your lungs if youre not careful.
To avoid this, wear a face mask while working with the micas and oxides. Also,
cover your workspace with a piece of waxed paper to make cleanup easier. They
may also end up on your clothes, so wear an old T-shirt while working.
Sweetly Innocent Blush

A medium true pink with warm undertones. This blush is best suited for those with
medium-fair skin that has a touch of yellow tone. This recipe makes about 1 ounce
(28.4 grams).
Be My Valentine mica
Cloisonne Red mica
Rouge Flambe Red mica
1 Tad
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate

Jojoba oil
Preservative

127
Prepare as directed in the Sweet Valentine Blush recipe.
Sweetheart Pink Blush

A soft, true pink. This blush isnt as light as the Sweet Valentine Blush, but its still
soft. Its best suited for fair skin with warm undertones. This recipe makes 1.2 ounces
(34 grams).
Blush Beige mica
Tibetan Ochre mica
Cotton Candy mica
TKB Trading Matte Texture Base
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative
Rosy Tones
No matter what undertones your skin has, youll find a rosy tone blush that will work
for you. These colors work for daytime, office wear, and even evening wear. Theyre
the most natural-looking blushes for most skin tones and give you a healthy glow.
Remember, when you really blush, you dont blush orange or purple.
Pink Rose Blush

A beautiful rosy pink. This blush has an intense rosy color. Its very suitable for light
to medium skin tones. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Ultramarine Pink mica
Magnesium Violet mica

Titanium dioxide

128
Red oxide
French or rose talc
1 Pinch
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative

Soft Rose Blush

A soft rose with neutral tones. This blush has a splash more of color that will brighten
your whole face. Its best suited for any light to medium skin tone and any type
undertone. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Sparkling Rose mica
Red #40
Hot Momma mica
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative
.07 ounce (2 grams)
Hot House Rose Blush

A medium-warm-tone rose. This blush will have you kicking up your heels and look
ing great! Its perfect for warm skin tones. This recipe makes just over 1 ounce (30
grams).
Hot Momma mica

French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate

Jojoba oil
Preservative
129

Trinity Blush
A soft, neutral rose. This blush contains just enough color for day wear without
looking overly made up. It works well for both warm and cool skin tones. This recipe
makes just under 1 ounce (24 grams).
Sparkling Rose mica
Colorona Bordeaux mica
Red #40
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 Tads
Deep Red Tones

When we blush, red is the main color our cheeks turn. For evening-wear makeup, red
is the color. Theres a red for each complexion type in this section. Choose the one
that suits you best.
Wine and Roses Blush

A deep wine blush. This blush is best suited for medium to dark complexions. It has a
slight blue undertone and is perfect for those who look best in cool-tone colors. This
recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Titanium dioxide
Red oxide
Red oxideblue shade
1 Tad
130
French or rose talc

Magnesium stearate


Jojoba oil
Preservative

Deep Rosy Red Blush

A deep rose so deep its almost a red. This blush gives you a healthy and beautiful
glow. Its best suited for those with medium to dark cool complexions. This recipe
makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Red oxide
Sparkling Rose mica
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative
.175 ounce (5 grams)
Deeply Red Blush

A dark warm red. This blush is best suited for darker warm complexions. This recipe
makes just over 1 ounce (30 grams).
Red oxide
Colorona Bordeaux mica

French or rose talc

Magnesium stearate

Jojoba oil
Preservative
131

Lucille Blush
A true red. This blush is bright! A little goes a long way. Its well suited for medium
complexions that have warm tones. This recipe makes just over 1 ounce (31 grams).
Carmine
Red #40
Red oxide
Queen Kathryn mica
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative

1 Tad plus 1 Pinch
Peach Tones
We all love the soft, peach-tone blushes. They work so well with so many complexions
and hair colors. Here youll find several to choose from. We know youll find at least
one here to love.
Peaches and Apricot Blush

A nice peach/apricot blush. This blush is well suited for light to medium skin tones
that have warm undertones. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Yellow oxide
Orange oxide
Red oxide

Brown oxide
1 Tad plus 1 Smidgen
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French or rose talc

Magnesium stearate

Titanium dioxide
Jojoba oil
Preservative

Romance Blush
A beautiful medium peach tone. This blush is perfect for medium-light complexions
with warm tones. This recipe makes just over 1 ounce (29 grams).
Butter Yellow mica
Scarlet OHara mica
Red oxide
Yellow oxide
Titanium dioxide
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1 Pinch
Lightly Dusted Peach Blush

A soft apricot and peach blush with a hint of cinnamon. Have a light tan? This blush
would be perfect! This recipe makes just over 1 ounce (30 grams).
Sparkling Rose mica
Pink Coral mica

Apricot mica
Antique Copper mica


French or rose talc

Magnesium stearate

Jojoba oil

Preservative
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Plum Tones
No one blushes a plum color, but for those with darker complexions, the plum blushes
can be gorgeous! If youve ever had your colors done, you know colors are divided
into two groups: warm and cool. If you look better in gold, youre a warm tone; if
you look better in silver, youre a cool tone. To wear these colors, you have to have a
darker complexion with a cool tone. Remember, plum has both red and blues, making
it a cool color.
Sweet Plum Blush

A medium plum with a hint of pink undertone. This blush is not for blondes or those
with fair complexions. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Sparkling Rose mica
Manganese Violet
Oriental Beige mica
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative
Plum N Berries Blush

A deep plum with red undertones. This blush is dramatic! This recipe makes 1 ounce
(28.4 grams).
Manganese Violet mica
Antique Copper mica

Colorona Russet mica
3 Tads plus 1 Pinch
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French or rose talc

Magnesium stearate


Jojoba oil
Preservative

Brown-Cinnamon Tones
This is another blush group that works well with so many different complexions
and hair colors. This group is best suited for the warm tones, from fair to dark
complexions.
My Azure Blush
A medium cinnamon tone with a touch of gold and red undertones. You can use this
grind for lipstick, too! Just use the first 3 ingredients. This recipe makes just under 1
ounce (20 grams).
Coted Azure mica
Swiss Chocolate mica
Red oxide
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Sericite mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1 Drop
Cinnamon-Apple Blush
A soft cinnamon with red undertones. This blush is soft enough for fair skin and deep
enough for darker complexions, too. This recipe makes 1.4 ounces (39.7 grams).
Queen Kathryn mica
.6 ounce (17 grams)
Antique Copper mica
French or rose talc

Magnesium stearate


Jojoba oil
Preservative
.07 ounce (2 grams)

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Tibetan Sunset Blush

A dark cinnamon with red undertones. This deep blush is best suited for darker com
plexions. Its not suitable for fair to medium skin tones. It does make a beautiful shade
of lipstick using the first three ingredients! This recipe makes just under 1 ounce (28
grams).
Tibetan Ochre mica
Queen Kathryn mica
French or rose talc
Magnesium stearate
Jojoba oil
Preservative
3 Tads

IN THE MIRROR
Who were the first people to use blush? The ancient Egyptians. All through
history, having a redness to the cheeks was thought to be beautiful and a sign
of good health and youth. Just about anything that would stain the cheeks was
used. In ancient Greece, for example, mulberries were used as a blush.
Making Bronzers
For the times you dont want to take the time to fully put on makeup yet you want to
still look nice (and not like the walking dead!), a good bronzer is the perfect solution.
For young ladies, a good bronzer is all you need to add just the right amount of even
color to brighten the face. If you feel the bronzer is too shiny, you can add more
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TKB Trading Matte Texture Base to help tone down the sparkle. Micas are sparkly,
so adjust them to your liking. Use Chapter 8s Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe to
blend with the following color grinds.
Please weigh your micas and oxides carefully and as exactly as you possibly can.
Heres what you need to make bronzers:
Drop sizes)
UScale
USandwich size or smaller zipper-lock bags
USmall scoops
U3mm pipettes
UAlcohol or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide
USmall paper cups
UFace mask
ULatex gloves
UPaper towels
UWaxed paper
U6-inch dowels the diameter of the containers (for making pressed powder)
Base Filler for Bronzers

Using a translucent powder, bronzers add a little more color to your skina healthy
glowwhen you dont want to wear makeup. Bronzers are made in two parts: the
base filler (the white powder) and the color grind. Grind them together with a little
jojoba oil, and you have a bronzer. Should you feel that you would like a little more
coverage, you can always use one of the other base fillers, cutting the recipe in half,
for foundations in Chapter 8. You can always add a little more of the grind for more
color. This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams) of base filler, giving you extra for
making adjustments in your bronzer.
French or rose talc
Rice powder

Sericite mica
Mica spheres
Jojoba oil
Preservative
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1. Place a cup or bowl on the scale, and push the tare button to zero out the weight
of the container. Weigh the talc and pour it into the grinder bowl or mortar.
Return the cup or bowl to the scale and push the tare button again and weigh
the next ingredient. Continue until you have all the ingredients weighed and in
the grinder bowl or mortar.
2. If youre using a coffee grinder, grind the ingredients for 2 minutes. If youre
using a mortar and pestle, hand-grind for at least 4 minutes.
3. Store in a zipper-lock bag until ready to use.
PRETTY POINTER
If you want a bronzer without so much sparkle, youll have to make a few adjust
ments to the base filler. Start by adding .2 ounce (5.7 grams) titanium dioxide or
kaolin clay, and decrease the talc to 1 ounce (28.4 grams). For ladies with darker
complexions who want less sparkle, add .2 ounce (5.7 grams) Coconut Crush mica.
Very Light Bronzer Color Grind

This color grind is for the lightest skin tone; it adds just a tiny touch of color. This
recipe makes enough color grind to add to .8 ounce (22.7 grams) base filler to fill 1
(30-gram) sifter jar.
Bronze Fine mica
Gold Fine mica
.085 ounce (2.4 grams; 2.4 milliliters)
.018 ounce (.5 gram; .5 milliliter)
Preservative
work area.
2. Place a cup on the scale and push the tare button. Weigh the base filler.
Transfer it to your coffee grinder or mortar. Measure the micas, and add them
to the base filler.
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3. Grind the base filler and the micas together for 1 minute in short spurts. Test
color by rubbing some on the inside of your forearm and going out in the
sunlight. Make any adjustments needed.
4. Add the preservative. Grind for 2 minutes if using a coffee grinder or 4 or 5
minutes if youre using a mortar and pestle. You want to be sure the preservative
is well distributed throughout the powder.
5. Fill a sterilized, 30-gram sifter jar and store the remainder in a zipper-lock bag.
Medium-Light Bronzer Color Grind

A little more color but still a light shade and good for those with a medium-light
complexion. This recipe makes enough color grind to add to .8 ounce (22.7 grams)
base filler to fill 1 (30-gram) sifter jar.
Bronze fine mica
Gold fine mica
Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Very Light Bronzer Color Grind recipe.
Medium Bronzer Color Grind

This color grind is suitable for light olive and beige skin tones. This recipe makes
enough color grind to add to .8 ounce (22.7 grams) base filler to fill 1 (30-gram) sifter
jar.
Bronze Fine mica
Gold Fine mica
Australian Umber mica

Preservative
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Dark Bronzer Color Grind

Even if you do have a deep tan, you may still want to add a little glow. This is the
blend for you. This recipe makes enough color grind to add to .8 ounce (22.7 grams)
base filler to fill 1 (30-gram) sifter jar.
Bronze Fine mica
Gold Fine mica
Umber mica
Preservative
Even Darker Bronzer Color Grind

The deepest bronzer color, suitable for the darker complexions. This recipe makes
enough color grind to add to .8 ounce (22.7 grams) base filler to fill 1 (30-gram) sifter
jar.
Bronze Fine mica
Gold Fine mica
Dark Brown oxide
Preservative
.21 ounce (6 grams; 6 milliliters)
140
t Its a lot easier to make blush than you might have thought. Find your very own
perfect blush in this chapter.
t When you just want a little something, bronzers offer a touch of extra color and
shimmer.
t Micas and oxides are fun to work with, but they are messy, too. Wear old clothes
while making your mineral makeup.
Chapter
For the Eyes
10
In This Chapter
t Easy-to-make eye shadow grinds
t DIY all-natural eyeliner
t Make your own natural, chemical-free mascara
This is my favorite chapter, the one I enjoyed writing the most. I was able to let go
and be very creative with the shadow blends. My granddaughter and her friends put
in their 2 cents as to whats in these days. (Funny thing: some of the in colors and
techniques theyre doing now were popular when I was a teen in the 1960s! I had fun
remembering the past and making some of the colors Twiggy made so popular!)
According to my daughter and granddaughter, the double line eyeliner is coming back.
This is where you make a wider line with white eyeliner and then make a thinner line
close to the eyelashes with black liner. So very 1960s! If they started drawing little
lashes under the bottom lashes, the look would be complete. Of course I had to show
my granddaughter how to do this just in case that comes back, too.
The Basics of Making Eye Shadows

Eye shadows arent difficult to make. By using the basic color wheel, you can create
all the eye shadow colors you could ever want. Let these grinds get you started on
creating your own eye shadow colors. Hundreds of micas, or colorants, are available
to choose from, youll have lots of fun experimenting to come up with new shades.
I buy all my micas online from TKB Trading (see Appendix D) and have listed all
the micas in the following recipes by name so you can easily find them if you want to
make these exact blends. When youre ready to start creating your own grinds, I hope
what Ive given you here will serve as a good guide and encourage your imagination.
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You can blend the micas with just other micas and have a beautiful resulting color,
but you can also have some fun by creating more color-intense shadows. To achieve
this look, simply add a little oxide or TKB Trading Purely Matte Texture Base for
Eyes to the mica.
You apply mica eye shadow a little differently from how you apply commercial eye
shadow. Try using a brush if you want a less-intense color. Use a sponge-tip applicator
for a heavier and more intense look.
IN THE MIRROR
The Maybelline Company was created by T. L. Williams. He made the first modern
mascara by mixing coal dust and Vaseline Petroleum Jelly. The name Maybelline
came from combining Mr. Williams sisters name, Maybel, and Vaseline.
Heres what you need to make eye shadows:

UScales
USmall scoops
U3mm pipettes
UWaxed paper
Drop sizes)
USmall paper cups or small lightweight bowls
UAlcohol
UPaper towels
UFace mask
ULatex gloves
U6-inch dowels the diameter of the jars (for making pressed eye shadows) or
TKBs pressing tools
Chapter 10:For the Eyes
143
PRETTY POINTER
To help prevent your eye shadow from creasing on your eyelids, try adding a few
drops of hydrogenated polyisbutene in the final grinding.
As mentioned in other chapters, be sure your 10-milliliter sifter jars and other sup
plies as well as your workspace are all clean and sanitized. And always wash your
hands thoroughly before you begin.
Making Eye Shadow Color Grinds

We begin by making shadow grinds that are about 10 to 15 grams eachjust enough
to fill the 10-gram sifter jars. For pressed shadow, double the recipe so you have
enough to completely fill the jar.
If you have brown eyes, the warm colors will look sensational on you, as will golds
and bronzes. Blue eyes sparkle with blues, warm browns, bronzes, and lavenders.
Green eyes pop with purples as well as with roses, greens, and golds. If you have
hazel eyes, you cant go wrong with browns, golds, coppers, greens, purples, plums,
and sables.
You can also use these color grinds to make eyeliner pencils and color your mascara.
Press these shadows, and you can rub them gently with a damp eyeliner brush and
line your eyes. And you can always increase the amount you make by doubling the
recipes as many times as you need to. Store the extra grind in zipper-lock bags.
PRETTY POINTER
I recommend using Optiphen Plus as your preservative. Its paraben- and
formaldehyde-free. You wouldnt want to use a preservative that contained those
chemicals on or around your eyes! I use a 3mm pipette to add 2 drops to the
10- to 15-gram eye shadow grinds.
Here is when you need the 5 TKB stainless-steel measuring spoons. Most scales
wont weigh the tiny amounts of micas and oxides used in the following recipes.
These little measuring spoons do the trick and are easy to use.
Highlighters
These light and creamy colors are perfect for under the eyebrow. Highlighters are
always a light shade to draw attention to the shape of your eye and open up your eye.
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Creamy White Eye Shadow

A very light shadow with a slight yellow or creamy color. This recipe makes enough
grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Titanium dioxide
Butter Yellow mica
Bismuth Oxychloride
Diamond Sheen
Jojoba oil
Preservative
8 teaspoon (.6 milliliter)
2 drops
1. Place a piece of waxed paper on your counter in front of you. Set your scale to
grams or ounces. Place a small paper cup on the scale, and push the tare button
to zero out the weight of the cup.
2. Weigh the first oxide or mica. Transfer it to the coffee grinder or mortar. Put
the cup back on the scale, and again push the tare button. Continue weighing
each colorant until you have all transferred and ready to grind.
3. Grind the colorants for several seconds. Check your color by rubbing a little of
the blend on the back of your hand. Make adjustments if needed.
4. Add the jojoba oil. Use a 3mm pipette to add 2 drops of preservative, and grind
again. (For pressed shadow, use a 3mm pipette and add 6 extra drops jojoba oil.)
Grind for 1 minute to ensure the liquids are well distributed throughout the dry
colorants.
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5. Fill your 10-milliliter sifter jar by spooning in a little shadow at a time. If youre
pressing the powder, its time to use the 6-inch dowel. Spoon half the shadow
into the jar, press the dowel on top, and tap on the top of the dowel to press the
shadow tight. Fill the jar with the rest of the shadow, and repeat tapping with
the dowel. To have a full 10-gram jar of pressed eye shadow, you will need to
double the recipe for the color grind.
6. Place the lid on the jar, and store until youre ready to use. Or you can leave the
eye shadow loose and use a spoon to fill the shifter jar.
IN THE MIRROR
The Egyptians believed that using dark colors on their eyelids not only enhanced
their beauty but also warded off evil spirits.
Bright N White Eye Shadow

A stark white shadow with a sparkle. Choose the Hilite mica that matches your eyes.
This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Titanium dioxide
Bismuth Oxychloride
Diamond Sheen
Hilite Green (for green eyes)
146
Jojoba oil
Preservative

2 drops
Prepare as directed in the Creamy White Eye Shadow recipe.
PRETTY POINTER
Personalize this recipe by using the Hilite that complements your eye color. For
blue eyes, use Hilite Blue. For brown eyes, use Hilite Copper.
Peaches N Cream Eye Shadow

A very light peach highlighter. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram
sifter jar.
Titanium dioxide
Oriental Beige mica
Butter Yellow mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1
2 drops
Highlighter for Dark Eyes

A light flesh tone highlighter with sparks to complement dark eye color. This recipe
makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Titanium dioxide
Ivory Lace mica
Hilite Copper mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1
2 drops
147
Blues
Blue eye shadows make blue eyes look gorgeous. Ive created a few gemstone blues
that will be sure to please and will make your blue eyes seem even more intense.
Blue Gems Eye Shadow

A bright and intense gemstone blue. Use a brush to apply this shadow so you can
control the intensity of the color. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram
sifter jar.
Blueberry Pop mica
Sapphire mica
Blue Ferrocyanide
Jojoba oil
Preservative

2 Tads
6 Tads
1
2 drops
Forget-Me-Not Eye Shadow

A beautiful and intense medium blue that has a flip of purple. This recipe makes
enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Grape Pop mica
Blueberry Pop mica
Omega Blue mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 Dashes
1
2 drops
IN THE MIRROR
When a color has a flip, the color of the shadow changes slightly when you move
and the light reflection changes. It flips to highlights of another color.
148
Blue Icicles Eye Shadow

A medium light blue with silver sparkle. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a
10-gram sifter jar.
Omega Blue oxide
Ferrocyanide oxide
Starlight Blue mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 Smidgens
2 Smidgens
1
2 drops
Poppin Blue Eye Shadow

A very intense blue with a satiny shine. When applying this shadow, use a brush,
not a sponge applicator, so you dont overdo itits that intense. This recipe makes
Grape Pop mica
Colorona Dark Blue mica
Omega Blue mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1 Pinch
1
2 drops
Smokin Steel Eye Shadow

A polished steel blue thats very intense. This shadow helps you blue-eyed folks create
the smoky eye look. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Blueberry Pop mica
Steel Blue mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1
2 drops
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Browns
Just about everyone can wear brown shadows. We give you several here to choose from.
Berry Brown Eye Shadow

A medium coppery brown with pink highlights. Not too dark for day wear, yet it
works for evening, too. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Dark Brown oxide
Artisan Coral mica
Antique Copper mica
Raspberry Pop mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
.02 ounce (.6 grams)
.07 ounce (2 grams)
.32 ounce (9 grams)
1
2 drops
Smoky Brown Eye Shadow

A deep silvery brown. This is another shadow you can use to create the smoky eye
look. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Dark Brown oxide
Black mica
Grape Pop mica
Bronze Fine mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
.05 ounce (1.4 grams) plus 1 Dash
1
2 drops
Deep Swiss Chocolate Eye Shadow

A deep and rich chocolate with fiery copper sparks. This will make beautiful smoky
eyes. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Dark Brown oxide
150
Jojoba oil
Preservative

2 drops
Soft Brown Reflections Eye Shadow

A soft muted brown with a green flip. You look one way and its a soft green, but look
the other way and its a soft brown. If you have hazel or green eyes, this shadow will
look sensational on you! Its beautiful on brown eyes, too. This recipe makes enough
Titanium dioxide
Dragon Fly mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative

1
2 drops
Aladdins Finery Eye Shadow

A medium tone but intense coppery brown with extra copper sparks. Perfect for day
or evening wear. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Aladdins Lamp mica
Bronze Fine mica
TKB Trading Purely Matte
Texture Base for Eyes
Jojoba oil
Preservative

1

2 drops
Greens
Green is one of my favorite colors. Ive created several greens, from soft green to
gemstone green. If you have green, hazel, or brown eyes, youll surely find a gold
mine of favorite shadows here!
151
Surrender to Me Eye Shadow

A medium sage green with a soft sheen thats perfect for day wear. This recipe makes
Deep Green mica
China Jade mica
Gold Fine mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative

1
2 drops
Always and Forever Green Eye Shadow

A medium deep green with a satin sheen. If you have hazel eyes, this shadow will
bring out all the green in your eyes. For green eyes, this shadow will make your
green eyes very intense. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Apple Green Pop mica
Emerald mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative

1

2 drops
Softly Green Eye Shadow

A soft powdery green with a soft sparkle. Its a great green for daytime wear. This
recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Ocean Green mica
Lotsa Lime mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative

1

2 drops
152
Ireland Eye Shadow

Youll be looking for the pot of gold with this eye shadow, a beautiful, intense green
with a satin sheen. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Lemon Drop Pop mica
Emerald mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1
2 drops
Grays/Silvers
My daughter-in-law asked me to grind some gray shadows for her, so I didand they
look awesome! Both of these grinds have a lot of sparkle! Use them to help create that
smoky eye look.
Silver Girl Eye Shadow

This is the lighter of the 2 silver gray shadows. Its less gray on the eyelid than what it
looks in the jarmore of a silver than a gray. This recipe makes enough grind to fill
a 10-gram sifter jar.
Polished Silver mica
Black mica
Black Amethyst mica
2 Dashes

Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 drops
Smokin Silver Eye Shadow

Smokin Silver is a touch darker than Silver Girl, with a little more smoky gray. Use
this color to contour the crease of the eyelid and to blend with Silver Girl on the
outer edge of the eyelid to make the smoky eye look. This recipe makes enough grind
to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Polished Silver
Black mica
Black Amethyst mica

Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 drops
153
Peaches
Peach shadows add a soft warmth to the eyes. I dont think theres any eye color thats
not enhanced with a peach-colored eye shadow.
Rich and Deeply Peach Eye Shadow

A deep, dark, and intense peachy-brown tone. This shadow complements brown and
hazel eyes beautifully. Rich and Deeply Peach is an intense shadow, so use a brush for
application. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Aladdins Lamp mica
Bronze Fine mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 drops
Electric Peaches N Oranges Eye Shadow

I think the name explains it very well. This grind has been approved by my teenage
granddaughter. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Tangerine Pop mica
Umber mica
Gold Fine mica
Sienna Fine mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
.025 ounce (.7 gram)
1
2 drops
154
Soft Peach Eye Shadow

A soft and airy peach with a satin sheen. Its perfect for daytime and office wear. This
recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Artisan Coral mica
Umber mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 drops
Tibetan Peach Eye Shadow

A medium tone brown-peach with a satin sheen. This shadow makes hazel eyes pop
and look sensational! This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Artisan Coral mica
Tibetan Ochre mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 drops
Purples
Purples and lavenders can make hazel, green, and brown eyes really pop. Even people
with blue eyes can wear this color shadow. The darker purples are often used to cre
ate the smoky eye look.
155
Deep Purple Haze Eye Shadow

A strong and deep true purple. This shadow makes brown and green eyes pop! Its
been granddaughter approved. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram
sifter jar.
Black oxide
Ultramarine Violet mica
Black mica
Grape Pop mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1
2 drops
Deep and Smoky Purple Eye Shadow

An intense smoky and deep purple. This shadow is the one you must have to create
hypnotic, smoky eyes. Its granddaughter approved, and the one she asks for the most.
Dark Brown oxide
Black Amethyst mica
Grape Pop mica
Black mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
2 Dashes
2 Dashes
1
2 drops
Purple Fog Eye Shadow

A pewter purple with a satin sheen. Its light and has more of a pewter tone than
purple. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Titanium dioxide
Patagonia Purple mica
156
Pearl White mica

Jojoba oil
Preservative

2 drops
Purple People Eater Eye Shadow

A soft and airy purple. This shadow is great for daytime wear, even to the office. And
its soft enough for young teen girls who are just starting to wear a little makeup.
Titanium dioxide
Grape Pop mica
Pearl White mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative

1
2 drops
Teals
I could play with these eye shadows all day long and not get tired of this color group.
They are perfect for those with blue or green eyes.
Teal Me Eye Shadow

A very bright and intense teal with a lot of sparkle. The Turquoise Tweak mica adds
all the sparkle. Use a brush to apply this intense shadow. This recipe makes enough
Turquoise Tweak mica
Coral Reef Blue mica
Blueberry Pop mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative

1
2 drops
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Teal We Meet Again Eye Shadow

A medium and soft teal tone with a sparkle. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a
10-gram sifter jar.
Totally Teal mica
Sparkle mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1 Tad
1
2 drops
Deep Teal Waters Eye Shadow

A deep teal with more green than blue with a satin sheen. This is another shadow
youll want to use a brush to apply. This recipe makes enough grind to fill a 10-gram
sifter jar.
Blue Steel mica
Coral Reef Blue mica
Pennsylvania Green mica
Blueberry Pop mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1
2 drops
Sparkling Turquoise Eye Shadow

The name says it allbright and sparking! This recipe makes enough grind to fill a
10-gram sifter jar.
Blueberry Pop mica
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1
2 drops
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SAFETY FIRST
Even though we dont use water in these eye shadows, its still very important to
use a good across-the-board preservative to kill any germs or bacteria that may
contaminate your shadow. I use Optiphen Plus.
Making Eyeliner
Eyeliner isnt hard to make. But when your family and friends see the liners youve
made, theyll be very surprised and amazed that you got the liner in that tiny hole. (I
wont tell them how easy it is if you wont.)
You can make several kinds of eyeliner:
UPressed
UPencils
ULiquid
In this section, I teach you how to make each type.
Many of the eye shadow color grinds make wonderful pencil eyeliners. For a smoky
look, try using the Deep and Smokey Purple or Purple Haze color grind. If you want
something green, use Always and Forever Green. Play with the grinds until you find
one you love for eyeliner.
Heres what you need to make eyeliner:
UStove or microwave
UScale
USmall saucepan or heat-resistant glass container
UStainless-steel measuring spoons
USeveral small glass or plastic bowls
USyringe, with no needle
U2 spoons
U3mm pipettes
ULatex gloves
UFace mask
159
UWaxed paper
U10-gram sifter jar
U6-inch dowel rod
UFillable eyeliner pencils that can be sharpened (These have a hole down the
center and look like a pencil.)
UFillable eyeliner tubes with brush wand
PRETTY POINTER
Check out makingcosmetics.com for the fillable eyeliner pencils. TKB Trading
has the eyeliner and mascara tubes, as well as the sifter jars, in all sizes. (See
Appendix D.)
Eyeliner Pencil
You have to work quickly while filling the pencils. The mixture cools fast, and it has
to be hot enough for you to push it all the way to the bottom of the pencil. Dont
worry about the spills or leaks; both are to be expected. Store any leftovers in a
zipper-lock bag for later use. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams), or enough to
fill 8 eyeliner pencils.
Beeswax
Candelilla wax
Palm kernel stearin
Jojoba oil
Castor oil
Color grind
Preservative
.01 ounce (0.3 gram)
1. Place a small bowl or cup on the scale and push the tare button to zero out the
weight of the container. Weigh the waxes and the oils, transferring each to a
small saucepan or a microwave-safe bowl. Heat over low heat or in the micro
wave for short cook times on medium power until the mixture is melted.
2. When all the wax has melted, remove from heat. Add the color grind, and stir
well. Add the preservative, and stir well again.
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3. Put a piece of clean paper or waxed paper on the counter in front of you. Using
the syringe, draw up at least 3 milliliters mixture. Hold the eyeliner pencil
upright with one end flat on the paper. Put the tip of the syringe against the hole
in the top of the pencil, and push the plunger until the mixture starts coming
back out. Prop the pencil upright in a cup to dry. Repeat with remaining pencils.
4. Let pencils set until the next day. Sharpen, and theyre ready to use!
PRETTY POINTER
You can divide the mixture in half so you can use two different color grinds. But I
dont recommend making a batch of eyeliner smaller than 1 ounce (28.4 grams)
for the pencils. Theres not enough mixture at that amount to remain hot long
enough to fill more than 1 pencil before youll have to melt the mixture again.
And at that point, there just isnt enough left to work with. You can fill 8 pencils
from 1 ounce eyeliner base.
Pressed Powder Eyeliner

To have a full 10-gram sifter jar of eyeliner, you need to double the color grind
recipe. There may be a smidge left over, but at least the jar will be full. When follow
ing the recipe for a color grind, do not add the jojoba oil and preservative. You will
add a different amount of those ingredients for making the pressed eyeliner rather
than eye shadow. Just follow this recipe. This recipe makes .36 ounce (10.2 grams)
and enough to fill a 10-gram sifter jar.
Oxide or color grind (your choice)

Jojoba oil
Preservative
161
8 teaspoon (.6 milliliter) plus 6 drops
4 drops
1. Follow the instructions for weighing the micas and oxides to make a color grind,
or just use black oxide.
2. With your coffee grinder or in your mortar and pestle, grind the oxide or color
grind. Then add the increased amount of jojoba oil and preservative. Be sure
everything is well incorporated.
3. Fill your jar with half the mixture. Press with the dowel until the mixture is
firm. Fill the jar with the remaining mixture, and repeat tapping with the dowel.
IN THE MIRROR
The ancient Egyptian women first started making eyeliner from burnt almonds,
soot, lead, and copper. Both women and men used the makeup.
Liquid Eyeliner
This recipe isnt as hard to make as it looks. Just roll up your sleeves and give it a try.
You can use any of the oxides or micas, including the color grinds, to make eyeliner.
Have fun and create a few wild sparkly liners with the micas for holidays or Halloween.
This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams), or enough to fill 2 eyeliner tubes.
The colorant:
Oxide or color grind
Magnesium stearate
Sericite mica
The waxes and oil:

Candelilla wax
Beeswax
Stearic acid
Jojoba oil
Preservative
1
1
1
11 2 tablespoons (22.5 milliliters)
162
1. Start by measuring your oxide or color grind, magnesium stearate, and sericite
mica. Place them in a small bowl, and set aside.
2. Measure your waxes and jojoba oil, and put them in a small saucepan or a heat
resistant glass container. If using a stove, set pan over the lowest heat and slowly
melt the waxes. If using a microwave, use short heating times set at half power.
3. When the waxes have completely melted, add the colorant mixture. Stir well and
use a syringe to fill the eyeliner tubes.
4. Allow to cure for 5 to 7 days before use. Apply to powdered eyelids.
SAFETY FIRST
Youll notice that this recipe is in a different format from other recipes. Thats
because it works only when you carefully measure the ingredients. This is a very
advanced recipe, and you should wait to tackle it only after youve made many
of the other recipes in this book. Rely on your knowledge of cooking to help you
navigate through the instructions and technique of making this liquid eyeliner
and the following mascara.
Making Mascara
The mascaras on the market today are made with chemicals and preservatives that
contain formaldehyde or parabens. We pay a high price for these waterproof, lash
lengthening formulas. Although the following mascara recipe isnt waterproof and
wont add length to your lashes, it is natural and free of any harmful chemicals.
When making mascara, you must work quickly before the gel gets too thick, which
makes it hard to fill the tube. It took me several tries to get one filled. Oh, and it can
be very messy. Be sure to cover your work surface with waxed paper.
You make this recipe in several parts. Read the entire recipe carefully before you
start. While youre melting the waxes, youll also be working on the water phase.
Heres what you need to make mascara:
U2 small saucepans
UStove with 2 burners
UScale
USyringe, with no needle (Look for one with a big hole in the end for drawing up
this thickish gel.)
163
USeveral mascara tubes

UA couple spoons or a tiny whisk
USmall cups or bowls
UFillable mascara tubes
UPaper towelslots
PRETTY POINTER
If your mascara dries out before youve had a chance to use it up, add a few drops
of olive oil and twist the wand around to help loosen the mascara inside the tube.
Let the olive oil soak into the mascara and then youll be able to continue using it.
Mascara
Do not try to make more than this 2-ounce recipe at a time. The mascara will become
too thick before you can fill all the tubes. You will use an oil of your choice to wet
the oxide so it can be added to your formulation without any lumps or clumps. This
oil can be any of your favorite oils, even glycerin if you prefer. This recipe makes 2
ounces (56.7 grams), or enough to fill 3 or 4 mascara tubes.
The color:
Oxide or color grind
Wetting oil (your choice)
IN THE MIRROR
Just like in cooking, you have to wet a dry ingredient to add it to a liquid. You have
to do that in this recipe with the oxide so it dissolves quicker when its added to
the melted waxes. I like to use sweet almond oil.
The waxes:
Candelilla wax
Beeswax
Emulsifying or polar wax
Stearic acid
164
The water and thickeners:

Distilled water
Aloe vera gel (or your choice)
Jojoba oil
Glycerin
HEC
.03 ounce (.9 gram)
Just before you fill the tubes, add:

Preservative
.02 ounce (.6 gram)
1. Put a small cup or bowl on your scale and push the tare button to zero out the
weight of the container. Weigh your oxide or color grind. Remove the container
from the scale. Weigh the wetting oil in another bowl, and add to the colorant.
Stir well, ensuring the oil is well distributed throughout the colorant. Set aside.
2. Weigh the waxes, and put them in the first saucepan. Set them aside for now.
3. Now put another small container or cup on the scale and again push the tare
button. Weigh the water, aloe vera or other oil, jojoba oil, and glycerin. Add
those to the second saucepan.
4. Now put another small container or cup on the scale, push the tare button, and
weigh the HEC. Set the HEC aside for now.
5. Set both saucepans over the lowest heat. Slowly melt the waxes while you heat
the water. When the water mixture is warm and the waxes in the other pan are
almost melted, remove the water pan from the heat and add the HEC. Stir until
its completely dissolved.
6. Add the oxide mixture to the melted waxes, and stir well. Remember to work
quickly!
BEAUTY BIT
HEC (Hydroxyethylcellulose) is a water-soluble thickener used in cosmetics. Its a
natural substance that comes from cellulose (paper).
165
7. Add the water mixture to the wax mixture, and stir. It will get all lumpy. Return
the saucepan to the stove and over medium-low, stir until it all comes together.
It may take a few minutes to get the mixture hot enough to come together, but
be patient and give it time to do its thing. Dont rush it. Remove from heat and
continue stirring. Now add the preservative, and mix well again.
8. Fill the mascara tubes using a syringe. Tap them on the counter to be sure no
air is caught in the tubes as you fill them. Leave a little space at the top so you
can insert the brush and screw it down into the tube.
166
9. Let the mascara cure for 4 or 5 days before use.

Enjoy your new natural mascara!
For good eyelash conditioner, mix equal parts of two or three oils such as grapeseed,
apricot kernel, and sweet almond oils, and apply a light coating to eyelashes at night
before bed. You can also condition your eyelashes using castor oil jelly.
t Its easy and so much fun to make eye shadows. Your choices of colors are nearly
limitless!
t When working with micas and oxides, especially in such tiny amounts as are neces
sary for eye shadows, youll need a good scale.
t Oxides and micas are messy! Wear old clothes when working with them, and be
sure to cover your work surface with waxed paper to help with cleanup.
Chapter
Everything Lips
11
In This Chapter
t Create the perfect lipstick shade, whatever the occasion
t DIY lipsticks with matching lip liner pencils
t Making moisturizing lip balms
I love making lip products! Theyre so easy and inexpensive to make. In this chapter,
we give you several recipes to tryand enjoy!
Making Lip Balms

When making lip balm, the most important thing to remember is the butters you use
can become grainy if theyre melted too quickly and get too hot. The best way to melt
the butter is over low heat. Dont let the butter completely melt while on the burner.
Instead, remove the butter from the heat when a few unmelted pieces still remain.
Stir the butter until the rest of the pieces melt.
In these recipes, you can always change any of the butters for one of your choosing.
Thats also true for the oils. However, please swap a butter for a butter and an oil for
an oil. That way the firmness of the balm remains consistent.
Now what about flavor? While shopping for lip product ingredients, you might find
lip balm flavor oils. These oils dont actually have a taste, but they do have a scent,
which tricks your brain into thinking the lip balm tastes like it smells. Even though
they say lip balm flavor, they can also be added to your lipsticks. How about mak
ing a bright red lipstick using apple lip balm flavoring?
You can use honey to flavor your lip balm, but I advise you to use honey powder and
not actual honey. Honey tends to become grainy in lip balms, while the powder
doesnt.
168
Be careful not to get the cocoa butter too hot because it also tends to become grainy,
and after a month or two, little crystallized buds of cocoa butter pop up on the top of
the lip balm. Instead, melt the cocoa butter over low heat slowly. Remove it from heat
before it has finished melting, and continue stirring until the butter has completely
melted.
For an extra-special touch, you can add a small amount of one of the sparkly micas to
your lip balm. It wont color your lips, but it will add a nice visual touch.
I recommend that you use Optiphen Plus as your preservative. Its paraben- and
formaldehyde-free. The use rate is 1 percent.
SAFETY FIRST
Always clean your workspace before you begin. Wipe the counter with alcohol or
3 percent hydrogen peroxide. Sterilize all your equipment, including your contain
ers. Its helpful to keep a bottle of alcohol handy while you work for wiping down
utensils as you may need them.
Heres what you need to make lip balm:

ULip balm tubes
ULatex gloves
UAlcohol or hydrogen peroxide
UScale
USet of 5 TKB Trading stainless-steel measuring spoons (Tad, Dash, Pinch,
Smidgen, and Drop sizes)
URegular measuring spoons
USpoons
USmall cup or bowl
UStove or microwave
USmall saucepan or a microwavable glass measuring cup
USyringe, without needle, or 1-cup (236.6-milliliter) measuring cup
Before you begin, be sure to sterilize your lip balm tubes with a commercial sanitiz
ing product or alcohol and let them completely air-dry. Store in a baggie if you are
going to wait a few days before using them. Otherwise, have them lined up in a row
before you begin.
Chapter 11:Everything Lips
169
Shea-YaLike Lip Balm

With the shea butter and sweet almond oil, this balm will keep your lips soft and
moist all year round. Its a basic lip balm recipe that works for all types of lip needs.
This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams) lip balm, or enough to fill 25 (.15-ounce;
4.3-gram) lip balm tubes.
White beeswax
Soy wax (We use Joy Wax.)
Cosmetic-grade shea butter
Sweet almond oil
Jojoba oil
Flavor oil
Preservative

1 teaspoon (4.9 milliliters; or to taste)
1. Place a small bowl on your scale, and push the tare button to zero out the
weight of the bowl. Weigh each of your waxes and butter, and place them in the
saucepan or microwave-safe container.
2. Melt the waxes and butter over low heat. If heating in the microwave, use half
power for 1 minute at a time. Be careful not to overheat your butters.
3. While the waxes and butter melt, weigh the oils and add them to the melting
wax mixture. When the waxes and butter are almost totally melted, remove
from heat and stir while they finish melting.
4. Now add the lip balm flavoring and preservative. Stir until everything is well
incorporated.
5. Using a syringe or a glass measuring cup, carefully fill the lip balm tubes to
the very top. Let cool until hard (the cooler the room, the quicker they harden)
before you place caps on top.
Bee Sweet Lip Balm

With the addition of grapeseed oil, this lip balm recipe has more conditioning than
the Shea-YaLike recipe. This is a good winter balm to prevent chapped lips. If you
want, you can omit the soy wax and increase the beeswax to 5 ounces (141.7 grams).
This recipe can be cut in half down to 2 ounces (56.7 grams) or doubled to make any
size batch you want. This recipe makes 8 ounces (226.8 grams) lip balm, or enough to
fill 50 (.15-ounce; 4.3-gram) lip balm tubes.
170
White beeswax
Soy wax
3 ounces (85 grams)


Grapeseed oil
Sweet almond oil
Jojoba oil
Flavor oil
Preservative

Prepare as directed in the Shea-YaLike Lip Balm recipe.
IN THE MIRROR
Mowrah butter is my all-time favorite butter to use in lip balms and lipsticks, but it
has become impossible to find. Several years of bad crops have led to a shortage
of this wonderfully healing and soothing butter. Hopefully we will see this butter
on the market again in the future. When and if that happens, do yourself a favor
and buy some of the ultra-refined mowrah butter and add it to your lip balm recipe.
Cocoa Buttery Lip Balm

This lip balm is my favorite. It has all the oils mature skin needs plus the butters to
heal and protect your lips. You can cut this recipe down to as little as 2 ounces or
increase it to whatever size batch you want to make. Take special care when melting
the cocoa butter. If youre unable to get Joy Wax, use white beeswax instead. This
recipe makes 8 ounces (226.8 grams), or enough to fill 50 (.15-ounce; 4.3-gram) lip
balm tubes.
Candelilla wax
Joy Wax (soy wax blend)
Cocoa butter

3 ounces (85 grams)

Sweet almond oil
Pumpkin seed oil

Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Shea-YaLike Lip Balm recipe.
171
Making Lip Gloss

I dont know any girlyoung or not-so-young!who doesnt love lip gloss. And as
a bonus: its one of the easiest cosmetics to make! You can make a really simple gloss
using glycerin and castor oil, or you can add more ingredients, creating a gloss that
conditions while adding shine and maybe a touch of color. Lip-safe micas are a simple
way to add color. How much you add determines how much color sticks to your lips.
Many commercial-flavor oils are available for use in lip products. You can mix these
together or use them as they are. I often mix chocolate and mint flavor oils for lip
balm and gloss. These flavor oils dont actually have a taste, only the scent, which
tricks your nose into tasting the flavor.
Package your finished gloss in roll-on bottles or bottles with a fuzzy-tipped wand.
Heres what you need to make lip gloss:
U
3-ounce (9.4-gram) roll-on bottles (sterilized)
USmall microwave-safe bowl, small saucepan, or glass measuring cup

UScale
UTiny funnel
UMicrowave or stove
USpoon
Simple and Conditioning Lip Gloss

This very simple recipe is a snap to make, and it offers wonderful conditioning for
your lips and keeps them kissably soft. This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams), or
enough to fill 6 (1 3-ounce; 9.4-gram) lip gloss bottles.
Castor oil
Sweet almond oil

Jojoba oil (clear)
Candelilla wax (or your choice)
Glycerin
Vitamin E
Preservative
Flavor oil
Lip-safe mica (optional)

1
172
1. Place a bowl on your scale, and push the tare button. Weigh your oils and wax
one at a time. Place in a microwave-safe bowl or in a small saucepan.
2. If using a microwave oven, heat on half power, in short spurts (about 30
seconds), until all the wax has melted. If using the stovetop, melt over low heat
until all the wax has melted. Remove from heat.
3. Let mixture cool slightly before adding the preservative, flavoring, and color.
Stir well.
4. Using a tiny funnel, fill the lip gloss bottles. Let completely cool before screw
ing on the roller and lids.
Colorful Lip Gloss

Lip gloss only leaves a hint of color on your lips, but sometimes a hint is all you need
or want. If youd like a little more color, increase the mica to .2 ounces (5.7 grams).
This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams), or enough to fill 6 (1 3-ounce; 9.4-gram) lip
gloss bottles.
Oil (your choice)
Castor oil
Jojoba oil
Cocoa butter
Candelilla wax (or your choice)
Vitamin E
Preservative
Flavor oil
Lip-safe mica
1
4 teaspoon (1.2 grams; or to taste)
Prepare as directed in the Simple and Conditioning Lip Gloss recipe.
Lava Lip Gloss

This is not our recipe, but one many hand-crafters use for making this fun lip gloss.
The gloss will separate, and the colored glycerin will settle at the bottom of the
bottlejust like the lava lamps from the 1960s! Turn the bottle over several times to
mix color and clear together. This recipe makes 3 ounces (85 grams), or enough to fill
9 (1 3-ounce; 9.4-gram) lip gloss bottles.
Glycerin
Lip-safe mica
Castor oil
Vitamin E
Preservative
Flavor oil
173
2 teaspoon (2.4 grams; or to taste)
1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the glycerin and
mica. In a small bowl or measuring cup, pour the glycerin over the mica, and
stir until the mica has dissolved in the glycerin.
2. Place another bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the castor oil
and vitamin E, and add them to the glycerin mixture. Stir well.
3. Put the bowl back on the scale, and push the tare button again. Weigh the
preservative, and add it to the glycerin. Add the flavor oil, and stir well.
4. Using the tiny funnel, pour the gloss into the bottles. Cap and have fun!
Making Lipsticks
I could stay locked in my workshop for a month just playing with blends for lipstick.
My mother once said the older the woman, the redder her lipstick. Well, thats not
exactly true these days, or in the last 20 or so years. During my 20s and 30s, I wore
very red lipstick and loved it. Nowadays, I wear very light shades, so I guess the
trends have reversed. No matter what your color choice, we give you several color
grinds we hope youll love.
If you dont find your perfect shade among the recipes in this section, we also show
you how to grind your own personal favorite.
PRETTY POINTER
You can use lip balm tubes for your lipstick and pour the mixture directly into
the tube. After the lipstick hardens, just cut the end at a slant. If you want to use
lipstick tubes, youll need a mold. Several types are available. TKB Trading carries
the professional metal 12-stick molds, which are very expensive, or you can buy a
plastic single- or triple-stick mold from Making Cosmetics. Both companies have
online stores.
Youll need to keep in mind a few pointers before you start. You need to have either
lanolin or castor oil jelly in your recipe for the color to stick to your lips. You also
need to have a tiny amount of oxide in all the grinds. If you omit these, your lipstick
wont color your lips. I dont like the smell or taste of the castor oil jelly, so I use
lanolin in the recipes. Some people use Vaseline in place of the lanolin. Or I have a
recipe for making a natural jelly instead.
174
If you dont add enough color grind to the lipstick, it wont coat your lips. If the
lipstick is too hardguess whatit wont leave color on your lips. If you have too
much color grind, the lipstick will be brittle and cakey and even contain cracks. Your
lipstick needs curing time, at least a few weeks.
Its important to follow the recipes carefully. Once youre comfortable with what
youre doing, you can tweak the recipes and make them your own.
Heres what you need to make lipsticks:
USmall saucepan or microwaveable container
UScale
UStove or microwave
USpoons
U3mm pipettes
USmall paper cups
USet of 5 TKB Trading stainless-steel measuring spoons (Tad, Dash, Pinch,
Smidgen, and Drop sizes)
ULipstick tubes and a lipstick mold, or lip balm tubes (You can pour the lipstick
directly into the lip balm tubes.)
Be sure your area is clean and your lipstick tubes or lip balm tubes have been steril
ized and are in a baggie ready for use.
Lip-Loving Lipstick
This is my favorite lipstick because it glides on so smoothly. In the recipe, I use Joy
Wax instead of beeswax. This is a personal choice, and if youd rather use beeswax,
it works well, too. This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams), or 12 lipsticks in
(.15-ounce; 4.3-gram) lip balm tubes.
Joy Wax, soy wax, or beeswax
Candelilla wax
Macadamia oil

Castor oil
Lanolin (or castor oil jelly or Vaseline)

Vitamin E

Color grind
.2 to .4 ounce (5.7 to 11.3 grams)
Preservative
.02 ounce (.6 grams)
175
1. Set your scale to ounces or grams. Place your small cup or bowl on the scale,
and push the tare button to zero out the weight of the container. Weigh each of
the waxes, pushing the tare button each time to zero out the weight of the con
tainer. Transfer each wax to a small saucepan or microwavable container. Melt
them over low heat or in the microwave on half power in 1-minute intervals.
2. Weigh your oils, lanolin, vitamin E, and butter. Add them to the waxes, and
slowly melt the butter. Just before all the butter has melted, remove from heat
and stir until the butter has completely melted. This prevents the butter from
becoming grainy in the lipstick after it has hardened.
3. Weigh your color grind and preservative, and add them to the mixture. Stir
until all the color is incorporated.
4. Pour mixture into mold or tubes. Remelt if necessary until all your tubes or
molds are full.
5. Let the lipstick harden in the refrigerator for 2 hours. If you used lip balm
tubes, cut the top of the lipstick at a slant.
176
Heres how to load lipstick tubes from a lipstick mold:

1. Separate the lipstick mold.
2. With the lipstick tube rolled all the way up, place it over the bottom end of
the lipstick, and gently press the tube down over the lipstick. You may want to
gently loosen the lipstick before you slide the tube over it.
3. Gently pull up. The lipstick will pull away from the mold and load perfectly
into the tube. Roll down the tube, and place the cap on. Easy!
177
Mango Lipstick
Thanks to the conditioning of mango butter and pumpkin seed oil, this lipstick keeps
your lips moist and soft. This recipe makes a little harder lipstick. Depending on
where you live, the harder the lipstick, the less likely it is to melt. We live in Texas,
and everyone knows how hot it can get during the summer months. We have to be
careful not to make it too hard. That causes a whole set of other problems! This
recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams), or 12 (.15-ounce; 4.3-gram) lipsticks.
White beeswax
Candelilla wax
Palm kernel stearin
Pumpkin seed oil

Jojoba oil
Castor oil
Lanolin (or castor oil jelly or Vaseline)
Mango butter
Color grind
Preservative
.02 ounce (.6 gram)
Prepare as directed in the Lip-Loving Lipstick recipe.

BEAUTY BIT
Palm kernel stearin is a solid natural fat, a by-product from refining palm olein.
In lipstick, it adds hardness while also helping the color glide onto the lips.
178
Making Color Grinds for Lipsticks

Weve created some wonderful color grinds for you to use in your lipsticks. Some
of these grinds work well for blushes as wellmaybe you remember seeing a few of
them in that chapter. You can also match your lipstick and lip liner pencil using the
same color grind in both. Each of these grinds makes just enough colorant for one
lipstick recipe.
Heres what you need to make color grinds for lipsticks:
UScale
UStove or microwave oven
USmall saucepan or microwavable bowl
UAlcohol or hydrogen peroxide
UPaper towels
USmall paper cups
USpoons
U3mm pipettes
UFacemask
ULatex gloves
UWaxed paper
IN THE MIRROR
Where you see the words Tad, Dash, Pinch, Smidgen, and Drop, know these refer to
the set of 5 stainless-steel measuring spoons sold at TKB Trading. I use these for
the really tiny amounts of color.
Browns and Cinnamons

This is one of my favorite groups! I had to limit myself to these recipes; otherwise,
this chapter would have been full of brown and cinnamon recipes! Everyone can wear
browns and cinnamons. They look fantastic for daytime or nighttime wear.
179
My d Azure Lipstick Color Grind

A chocolate brown with red and pink highlights. This recipe makes your lips look
delicious and sexy. It can be worn day or night for that perfect touch. You may want
to double it if you want stronger color in your lipstick. This recipe makes .2 ounce
Coted Azure mica
Crucible Red mica
Red #170 or red oxide

1 Drop
1. Place a piece of waxed paper on the counter in front of you.

2. Set your scale to grams or ounces. Place your small cup or bowl on the scale,
and push the tare button. This will zero out the weight of the container.
3. Weigh the first oxide or mica. Transfer it to your coffee grinder or mortar and
pestle. Put the cup or bowl back on the scale, and again push the tare button.
Continue weighing each colorant until you have each one transferred into the
grinder and ready to grind.
4. Grind the colorant together for several seconds. Check your color by rubbing a
little of the blend on the back of your hand.
5. If youre not planning on using the color grind right away, store it in a zipper
lock bag until ready to use.
Sensuous Lipstick Color Grind

A deep brownish-red with a satin sheenseriously red, hot, and a must-have for
winter or evening wear. This recipe makes .25 ounce (7.1 grams) color grind.
Red oxideblue shade
Antique Copper mica
Autumn Leaves Sparks mica

Prepare as directed in the My d Azure Lipstick Color Grind recipe.
180
Cinnamon Fire Lipstick Color Grind

A cinnamon red with copper sparks. This is one of my favorite lip colors for when
I go out; it goes with just about anything. This recipe makes .25 ounce (7.1 grams)
color grind.
Queen Kathryn mica
Antique Copper mica
Burning Leaves mica

Umber Penny Lipstick Color Grind

A dark, coppery, rusty red with a satin sheen. Its not too glittery for day wear. This
recipe makes .3 ounce (8.5 grams) color grind.
Umber mica
Deep Russet mica

Nudes
There are times when you only want a hint of color, and thats when the nude cate
gory comes in. These barely there colors add just the right touch for that occasion.
Nude Sparks Lipstick Color Grind

A medium-light nude with a small sparklejust a little touch to make your lips look
moist. This recipe makes .45 ounce (12.8 grams) color grind.
Sparkle Rose mica
Aladdins Lamp mica

Pearl White mica
Butter Yellow mica
Apricot mica

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Nude Model Lipstick Color Grind

A light nude with a touch of pink and a satin sheen. This recipe makes .3 ounce (8.5
grams) color grind.
Artisan Coral mica
Pearl White or White mica

1 Tad
Flirtatious Bride Lipstick Color Grind

The lightest nude with only a hint of pink and satin sheen. This recipe makes .3
ounce (8.5 grams) color grind.
Ivory Lace mica
Angel Wings mica
Super Pearl mica

1 Tad
Oranges
Get out your sunglasses for this section because these color grinds are bright and
fiery! If you love the orange tones, Im sure youll have fun with these grinds.
Autumn Orange Lipstick Color Grind

The color of autumn leaves with a fiery spark. This recipe makes .3 ounce (8.5 grams)
color grind.
Orange oxide
Umber mica
Extra Bright White mica
Red oxide

1 Pinch
182
Orange Sorbet Lipstick Color Grind

A bright coral/orange with lots of sparkle. This recipe makes .3 ounce (8.5 grams)
color grind.
Pink Coral mica
Red #170 or red oxide

1 Dash
Peaches
The peach tones go with so many skin tones and hair colors that theyre very impor
tant to include in any cosmetic line. These lovely colors work perfectly for home or
office and even evening wear.
Sizzling Lipstick Color Grind

A soft peachy orange with a touch of pink and sparkle. This recipe makes .3 ounce
Sparkling Rose mica
Pink Coral mica
Apricot mica
Antique Copper mica

1 Tad
Peaches N Brown Sugar

Lipstick Color Grind
A peachy brown, not too dark and not too brown, but a warm color. This recipe
makes .3 ounce (8.5 grams) color grind.
Aladdins Lamp mica
Bronze Fine mica

183
Pinks
Pinks are so perfect for day or night. They reflect a natural look while making the
lips look soft, moist, and kissable.
Sweet Kisses Lipstick Color Grind

A very light pink with a slight blue undertone. This recipe makes .3 ounce (8.5 grams)
color grind.
Ultramarine Ink mica
Angel Wings mica

Strawberry Pearls Lipstick Color Grind

A medium strawberry pink with sparkle. This recipe makes .3 ounce (8.5 grams) color
grind.
Strawberry Pop mica
Pearl White mica

Pink Taffy Lipstick Color Grind

A medium bright iridescent pink with a sparkle. This recipe makes .2 ounce (5.7
grams) color grind.
Be My Valentine mica
Cloisonne Red mica

184
Spun Sugar Lipstick Color Grind

A medium pink with a slight blue undertone and sparkle. This recipe makes .2 ounce
Bronze Fine mica
Sparkling Rose mica

Sweetheart Pink Lipstick Color Grind

A barely there pink with a touch of beigevery light and very neutral. This recipe
makes .26 ounce (7.4 grams) color grind.
Blush Beige mica
Cotton Candy mica
Tibetan Ochre mica

1 Tad
Plums
Many people love plum-colored lipsticks. Here are some grinds were sure youll
enjoy using.
In the Plum Lipstick Color Grind

A medium plum with strong pink highlights. This isnt sparkly but has a shine and a
sheen. This recipe makes .3 ounce (8.5 grams) color grind.
Sparkling Rose mica
Oriental Beige mica

185
Plum Berries Lipstick Color Grind

A dark and deep reddish-plum with a satin sheen. Great for evening wear but also
during the day for special outings. This recipe makes .25 ounce (7.1 grams) color
grind.
Antique Copper mica
Colorona Russet mica

Reds
Who doesnt love red lipstick? For day or evening, nothing pulls everything together
like red lips. This section offers several grinds we hope youll enjoy makingand
wearing.
Red Spiced Cinnamon

Lipstick Color Grind
A dark and deep reddish-brown with a light sparkle. Wearable during the day or at
night, this is a very versatile color for just about everyone. This recipe makes .35
Red oxide
Hot Momma mica
Antique Copper mica
Burning Leaves mica

Incurable Romantic Lipstick Color Grind

A deep and sexy red with a satin sheen. This is the perfect knock-em-dead red for
evening or maybe even a business meeting. This recipe makes .4 ounce (11.3 grams)
color grind.
Red #170
Crucible Red mica
186
Deep Chestnut Lipstick Color Grind

The name pretty well describes this rich red-brown color. This color grind is more
of a brown than a red tone, and the Burning Leaves mica sets it on fire with sparkle.
This recipe makes .25 ounce (7.1 grams) color grind.
Red oxideblue shade
Antique Copper mica
Burning Leaves mica
Delicious Intentions Lipstick Color Grind

A deep bluish-red with a satin sheen and a slight sparkle. This is a sexy and seductive
rich redonly wear it when you have delicious intentions! This recipe makes .2
Glitter Bordeaux mica
Queen Kathryn mica
Crucible Red mica
Red oxide
1 Drop
Making Lipstick Pencils

If you love to line your lips before you put on lipstick, this section is for you. Lining
your lips not only helps define your lips but also keeps your lipstick from bleeding or
going where it shouldnt go.
Our lipstick pencils are made just like our eyeliner pencils. Follow these recipes and
instructions, and refer to the photographs in Chapter 10s Making Eyeliners section
for clarification on how to fill your pencils.
When applying your makeup, use the same color grind, or one that complements it,
for your lip pencil as your lipstick.
Heres what you need to make lipstick pencils:
UScale
USmall saucepan or heat-resistant glass measuring cup
187
USpoons
U3mm pipettes
UHollow pencils
USyringe, with no needle
UCup
UStove or microwave
Lip Liner Pencil Base

Recently I went into a department store and was shocked at the prices for lip liner
and eyeliner pencils. You can make these pencils for a tiny fraction of what stores
charge. Theyre easy and only take a few minutes to make. We make lip liner pencils
using the same method as used for eyeliner pencils. The same hollow pencils are
used, too. You can match your lipstick perfectly by using the same color grind to
make the lip liner pencil. Ive found that the longer theyre allowed to cure, the better
they are. I give mine a month. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams), or enough
base to fill 8 pencils.
Beeswax
Candelilla wax
Palm kernel stearin
Jojoba oil
Castor oil
Preservative
Color grind
1. Place a small container on the scale, and push the tare button to zero out
the weight of the container. Weigh each of the waxes, and place them in the
saucepan or heat-resistant glass cup. Weigh the rest of the ingredients except the
color grind. Place them in the saucepan or cup.
2. Heat over low heat or in the microwave on half power until all the waxes have
melted completely.
3. While the waxes are melting, weigh your color grind and have it ready to add to
the wax mixture. Remember to push the tare button before weighing the color
grind.
4. When the waxes are melted, stir in the color grind until the grind has dissolved
completely. At this time you may need to reheat the mixture just a little.
188
5. Draw up the liquid into the syringe. While holding the pencil with one end
flat against the counter, fill the other end with the liquid lip liner. The mixture
needs to be hot enough to flow easily down the hollow pencil shaft. When its
filled to the top, set the pencil upright in a cup to cool. Continue filling your
pencils, reheating when necessary.
6. Set the pencils in an out-of-the-way place so they can cure for a few days before
you sharpen them. Store any leftover base in a zipper-lock bag for later use.
t Everyone will love the lip balms you make from this chapter, so make extra so you
can share!
t Be sure you have the right kind of scale for the color grinds. The scale will need to
weigh grams to the 100th.
t All the micas and oxides are given by their actual name so you will know which
ones to buy and be able to make the exact grinds in this chapter.
For the Fellas
and Beyond
Part
Weve given you tons of recipes and DIY information in the preceding three parts,
but were not done yet! In Part 4, we remember the guys in your life (who might be
feeling a little left out when they see how much fun youre having and how lovely you
look!). So Part 4 begins with a chapter for all things male so you can pamper him.
And last but definitely not least, check out our bits and pieces chapter. Its chock-full
of lots of fun recipes that didnt fit elsewhere.
One thing we know for sure: you will love making all kinds of natural and earth
friendly beauty products. (And if that isnt enough to keep you busy, check out our
companion book, The Complete Idiots Guide to Making Natural Soaps, too!)
Chapter
For the Guys
12
In This Chapter
t After-shave lotions or splashes for your fella
t Manly moisturizers, facials, and colognes
t Anti-aging recipesmen need them, too!
Men today arent so opposed to using lotions and toners as their counterparts were
20 years ago. Men also need to use moisturizers, anti-aging serums, facials, and after
bath powders. Whatever manly product youre looking for, youve come to the right
chapter.
Not all the recipes will be simple, however. Some are pretty complicated, but never
fear: we walk you through each step. And trust us: the results are worth itespecially
when the men in your life realize how much work you put in for them! And theyll
love being pampered once they get past the Im a man, and we dont do that stuff
thing. If they balk, just tell them to man up and do it.
Okay, guys. Its time to cowboy up and start taking better care of your skin to keep
the cowgirls happy.
The Basics of Making Manly Products

First things first: lets talk about scent. When scenting products for guys, youll want
to use manly fragrance oils or a blend of essential oils suitable for the fellas.
Balsam of Peru is a wonderful and manly essential oil, but use only a few drops at a
time. It can make just about any fragrance oil manly. Try blending it with a floral
fragrance oil to give the fragrance oil a new twist. Or try mixing a couple drops of
192
Part 4:For the Fellas and Beyond
balsam of Peru with sandalwood fragrance oil. Lemongrass essential oil is great for
closing and shrinking pores. Blend the lemongrass essential oil with lime essential oil
for a fresh citrus scent. Even though lavender essential oil is very antiseptic, we doubt
youll want your husband/partner to smell like your grandmother! Instead, you can
blend the lavender with patchouli and still have the antiseptic benefits. Try your hand
at blending the essential oils a few drops at a time, and create a nice-smelling, manly
blend that will also have skin-loving benefits.
Heres what you need to create the products in this chapter for the men in your life:
UScales
UGlass cup
UStove
UThermometer
UStainless-steel pot
USpatulas and spoons
UImmersion blender
UJars and bottles
UStainless-steel saucepan
UGlass, stainless-steel, or plastic
bowls
IN THE MIRROR
As noted earlier, we dont include the amount of preservative or scent as part
of the 100 percent makeup of these recipes. Scent is optional, and the amount
of preservative depends on the type and brand of preservative you use. (See
Appendix E.) I like to use Optiphen Plus. Its paraben- and formaldehyde-free. Use
1 percent of the total weight of the product youre making.
Fragrance Blends for Men

Alex Crow, the happy blender, created these for-men-only blends for the Apples,
Woods and Berries website and has graciously allowed us to include them in this
book. (If you like these, be sure to look for Alexs online e-book, The Alchemy of
Fragrance Blending.)
Each blend is written in parts so you can make any amount of a blend you need,
and it will come out perfect every time. A part can be anything you want or need it
to be, from 1 ounce to 16 ounces.
Chapter 12:For the Guys
193
His Texas Waltz Fragrance Blend

With Cherokee Creeks soft woodsy and earthy notes, this blend kicks up its heels
with a spicy touch of pepperberry.
1 part Cherokee Creek
1 part pepperberry
His Cowboy Two-Step Fragrance Blend

The always-classic Irish green tweed is even sexier with the addition of the sweet
woods and musk of Hardwood Musk.
2 parts Hardwood Musk
1 part Irish green tweed
His Tropical Spice Fragrance Blend

Sweet berries soften the tart pineapple and lush mango. The spicy pepper of pep
perberry spurs the blend into a sensation!
1 part pepperberry
1 part pineapple mango
His Blackberry Tweed Fragrance Blend

The green herbaceous and woody notes of the Irish green tweed give a sexy mascu
line twist to the fruity fragrance of blackberry apple.
2 parts blackberry apple
1 part Irish green tweed
IN THE MIRROR
You can also use these blends when making cologne. To make a mens cologne,
use 80 percent perfumers alcohol and 20 percent fragrance or essential oil.
194
His Handsome and Distinguished
Fragrance Blend
Masculine and sexy, Cowboy Campfire blends with the soft earthy sandalwood and
joins the woodsiness of Hardwood Musk to yield a very handsome and distinguished
one-of-a-kind fragrance.
4 parts Cowboy Campfire
1 part Hardwood Musk
1 part sandalwood
Making Mens Shaving Cream

Nearly every man uses shaving cream, so why not make him an all-natural version?
The following recipe will not only offer slip for shaving but also all the skin
softening benefits of a cream.
If youre interested in making him a shaving soap, please check out our companion
book, The Complete Idiots Guide to Making Natural Soaps.
IN THE MIRROR
By the time of the Crusades, fragrance, aromas, and spices were being used to
mask body odor. In 1709, the first cologne was created. More than 179 years
later, in 1888, deodorant was invented in the United States. Then in 1952, roll-on
deodorant was introduced to the market. The first aerosol spray deodorant
appeared in 1965.
His Shaving Cream

With this recipe, youll first make a very thick cream. After the cream has cooled
and thickened overnightyep, this is a 2-day recipeyoull add liquids and additives
to create a skin-soothing and -lubricating shaving cream. It has the best of both a
shaving soap and a moisturizer. This original recipe was posted on a Yahoo! soap
group, but we made a few changes in our version. This recipe can be doubled if you
desire. Please read these instructions all the way through before you begin. This
recipe makes 1 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) or 2 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) sterile jar(s).
195
Part 1:
Distilled water
Emulsifying wax
Sweet almond oil
Follow directions for making the Thick and Luscious Body Butter in Chapter 12.
Part 2:
Aloe vera juice
Xanthan gum or HEC
(Xanthan is best.)
Bentonite clay
Grapeseed oil
Dimethicone
Witch hazel
Preservative
Essential oil blend (your choice)

1. Put a small bowl on your scale, push the tare button, and weigh the aloe vera
juice.
2. Pour the aloe vera juice into a small saucepan, and set it over low heat. When it
has warmed to 110F, remove from heat.
3. While the juice is warming, put another small bowl on the scale, push the tare
button, and weigh the xanthan gum and bentonite clay. Place each into two
small bowls.
4. Put a bowl on the scales, and again push the tare button. Weigh the grapeseed
oil and the dimethicone. Set them aside for now.
5. After the aloe vera has warmed, remove it from heat. Remove a small amount
of the warm aloe vera juice, and stir it into the xanthan. Then do the same with
the clay to make a wet paste.
6. Add both xanthan and clay mixtures to the warmed aloe vera juice, and stir until
everything is well incorporated. It should start to become a nice, thick gel.
7. Add the witch hazel, and the thick cream from part 1 to the aloe vera mixture.
Stir well using a whisk or spoon.
196
8. Add the grapeseed oil and the dimethicone, including the preservative and
scent, and stir until its all well incorporated.
9. Bottle in a pump or squeeze bottle.
IN THE MIRROR
You can use HEC, hydroxyethylcellulose, in this recipe. Its made from cellulose or
xanthan gum and is used for thickening.
Making After-Shave Splash

After-shave splashes are very easy to make. Because the skin can become so irritated
after shaving, it needs to be soothed and the pores closed. Thats where after-shave
splashes come in. These splashes are cold made, which means no heat is applied. Just
weigh the ingredients, mix, and bottle. Its that simple!
Heres what you need to make after-shave splashes:
UScale
USmall pitcher
U1 small bowl and 1 large bowl
USpoon
USterile bottle
IN THE MIRROR
Lemongrass essential oil helps close and tighten pores, so its an excellent choice
to use in a scent blend for after-shave splashes.
His Old Lime After-Shave Splash

Alcohol is not used in this recipe, so this splash is well suited for men who have sensi
tive skin. It also contains edelweiss extract, which is anti-inflammatory, antioxidant,
anti-aging, and antifungal; it also fights bacteria. This recipe makes 1 (16-ounce;
453.6-gram) or 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) sterile bottle(s).
Aloe vera juice

Edelweiss extract

Witch hazel
Lime essential oil
Preservative

197
1. Put a small pitcher or bowl on your scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the
aloe vera juice. Set it aside for a minute.
2. Put a small bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the edelweiss
extract. Add it to the aloe vera juice, and stir until its dissolved.
3. Put a bowl on your scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the witch hazel,
and add it to the aloe vera mixture. Repeat for the lime essential oil and the
preservative.
4. Mix together well, and bottle in a sterile bottle(s).
His Embracing After-Shave Splash

This recipe is for the man who wants alcohol in his after-shave splash. This is a
basic recipe you can add extra ingredients to and make it your own. You can use
distilled water in place of aloe vera juice if you want, and you can double this recipe
as many times as you like. This recipe makes 1 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) or 2 (4-ounce;
113.4-gram) sterile bottle(s).
Aloe vera juice
Witch hazel
Alcohol

Fragrance oil blend or essential oil

Preservative

Prepare as directed in the His Old Lime After-Shave Splash recipe.
SAFETY FIRST
When using essential oils in a recipe, dont use more than 2.5 percent of the total
weight of the mixture. Essential oils are very strong and can irritate the skin. For
fragrance oils, dont use more than 3 percent. More than that can cause skin
irritation.
198
Making After-Shave Lotion

After shaving, men need to use a good after-shave splash or lotion. In several of these
recipes, weve used aloe vera gel or juice in place of water to add skin-soothing bene
fits. And after-shave lotion makes a great carrier for the anti-aging and antiwrinkle
additives available today.
Heres what you need to make after-shave lotion:
UStove
UMedium stainless-steel saucepan
UScale
UThermometer
USmall glass or plastic bowls
UImmersion blender
USpoons
His Cowboy Two-Step After-Shave Lotion

Fragrance blend created and named by Alex Crow.
Men love anti-aging products as much as women do. This recipe uses a four-ingredient
blend of anti-aging additives that really works! I use them in creams for women, too.
You can find these ingredients online at Lotioncrafter (lotioncrafter.com). This recipe
makes 1 (16-ounce; 453.6-gram) or 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) sterile bottle(s) or jar(s).
Sweet almond oil
Meadowfoam seed oil
Emulsifying wax
Aloe vera juice
When the lotion has cooled down to 104F, add:

Lotioncrafter Wrinkle Defense
Complex
Hyaluronic acid (anti-aging)
Decorinyl (anti-aging)
Edelweiss extract
Distilled water

Preservative
Fragrance blend

199
Fragrance blend:
Hardwood musk
Irish green tweed

1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh your first oil, and
pour it into the saucepan. Put the bowl back on the scale, push the tare button,
and continue weighing the oils and emulsifying wax. Pour them into the saucepan. Place the pan over low heat, and let the wax completely melt.
2. Place a fresh bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the aloe vera
juice. Pour into a separate saucepan, and set it over low heat.
3. Put a fresh small bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the
Lotioncrafter Wrinkle Defense Complex, hyaluronic acid, decorinyl, and edel
weiss extract predissolved in distilled water.
4. In separate bowls, weigh the preservative and fragrance blend. Set aside.
5. Add the warmed aloe to the oil mixture, and use an immersion blender to bring
the oils, wax, and water together to form a good emulsion. Remove from heat.
6. When mixture has cooled to 110F, add the preservative and fragrance blend
as well. Let it continue to cool to 104F and add Wrinkle Defense Complex,
hyaluronic acid, decorinyl, and edelweiss extract. Again use the immersion
blender to incorporate all the ingredients. At this time, you can also add a skin
safe colorant. Let cool completely; as the mixture cools, it will thicken into a
rich lotion. Package in sterile bottles or jars.
His Essentially After-Shave Lotion

After-shave lotions and splashes are an important step to close the pores and prevent
shaving bumps after shaving. In this recipe, weve used a blend of two essential oils
that helps close the pores and leaves a nice, citrus scent on his skin. This recipe
makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams), or 4 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) bottles or 8 (4-ounce;
113.4-gram) bottles.
200
Cocoa butter
Sweet almond oil

Meadowfoam seed oil

Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Aloe vera gel
Preservative

Essential oil blend:

Lemon or lime essential oil
Sweet orange essential oil
Clove essential oil

a dash
Or try this:
Patchouli essential oil
Balsam of Peru essential oil

Prepare as directed in the His Cowboy Two-Step After-Shave Lotion recipe.
Making After-Bath Powders

In addition to making skin feel nice and smooth, after-bath powders keep a mans
skin dry and more comfortable. When antiseptic essential oils are used in the mix,
the after-bath powder also eliminates any bacteria-caused odors. You can buy fillable
shaker containers online. Most are 4 or 5 ounces (113.4 to 141.7 grams).
Heres what you need to make after-bath powders:
UScale
USmall plastic or glass bowls
ULarge plastic or glass bowl
USpatula or spoon
ULatex gloves
UShaker containers or airtight container for storage
201
His Dry and Comfortable
After-Bath Powder
Nutrasorb is a natural starch that absorbs oils and moisture and helps in this recipe to
keep your man dry and comfortable all day long. This recipe makes 20 ounces (566.9
grams) or 5 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) shaker containers.
Nutrasorb
Baking soda
Cornstarch
Mens essential oil blend or
fragrance oil
1. Place a bowl on your scale, push the tare button, and weigh your first ingredient.
Pour that into a large bowl. Repeat until youve weighed all the dry ingredients.
2. With latex gloves on, use your hands to mix the dry ingredients until theyre
well incorporated.
3. Place a small cup on the scale, push the tare button, and weigh the essential oils.
4. With latex gloves still on, drizzle the essential oil blend into the dry ingredients,
and use your hands to work the oils into the dry mixture. Package in a shaker
container or an airtight container.
His Deodorizing After-Bath Powder

While leaving his skin cool, dry, and refreshed, this powder also helps keep him
smelling nice, thanks to its deodorizing ingredients. This recipe makes 24 ounces
(680.4 grams) or 6 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) shaker containers.
Arrowroot
Baking soda
Cornstarch
Cypress essential oil
Sage essential oil
Thyme essential oil
.05 ounce (2.5 milliliters)
Prepare as directed in the His Dry and Comfortable After-Bath Powder recipe.
202
IN THE MIRROR
For centuries, arrowroot has been the main medicine tribal medicine men have
used for healing wounds. The native tribes of countries such as Brazil even use
arrowroot for wounds made by poisoned arrows and for infections such as
gangrene. Its still in use today.
After you have these essentials as a blend, you may also want to add a few drops of
other essential or fragrance oils to make a fragrant blend more to your liking.
Making Manly Moisturizers

Using a moisturizer every day helps keep a mans skin looking soft and youthful.
Lotions and moisturizers are made the same way, so follow the lotion directions for
these recipes.
Heres what you need to make moisturizers for him:
UStove
UThermometer
UStainless-steel saucepan
UImmersion blender
UScale
USpatula and spoons
UGlass or plastic bowls
UBottles
His Mature Skin Facial Moisturizer

Just like women, as a man ages, his skin needs more moisture to keep it soft. This
moisturizer is perfect for the mature mans skin needs. This recipe makes 1 (16
ounce; 453.6-gram) or 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) sterile bottles.
Castor oil
Meadowfoam seed oil
Apricot kernel oil
Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Aloe vera juice
Preservative
203
His Light Facial Moisturizer

This moisturizer offers just a little extra help to keep his skin soft and kissable. Give
it to younger men who just want to keep their skin soft and young-looking longer.
This recipe makes 1 (16-ounce; 453.6-gram) or 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) sterile
bottles.
Avocado oil
Grapeseed oil
Sweet almond oil
Emulsifying wax
Aloe vera juice (or distilled water)
Essential or fragrance oil
Preservative
His Light Facial Moisturizer for
Acne-Prone Skin
Even young men who have acne-prone skin need a little moisturizer. This is a very
light recipe and wont aggravate acne. This recipe makes 1 (16-ounce; 453.6-gram) or
2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) sterile bottles.
Meadowfoam seed oil
Jojoba oil
Emulsifying wax
Aloe vera juice (or distilled water)

Calendula essential oil
Tangerine essential oil
204
Making Exfoliants for Men

Just like women, men have dead skin, too! We created these manly exfoliants so
our men can keep their skin in great health and looking good. A man should use an
exfoliant at least once a week.
Many people love to use sea salt in their exfoliants, but sea salt is too rough on the
skin and actually tears the delicate tissues. Sugar eats bacteria, so using sugar is a
great way to clear up the skin while also removing dead skin cells.
BEAUTY BIT
An exfoliant helps remove the oldest, dead skin cells that lie on the top layer of
the skin.
To use exfoliants, wet his face, scoop out about 1 tablespoon (14.8 milliliters), and rub
all over his face in circular motions. Use more scrub if needed to cover his entire face.
Rinse with warm water, and pat dry.
Heres what you need to make exfoliants:
UFood processor
USpatula or spoon
UScale
U2-ounce jar
UPlastic or glass bowls
His Oily Skin Exfoliant

For men who have oily skin and are prone to breakouts, this recipe is for you. The
sugar eats the bacteria, and the jojoba oil wont aggravate pimples. This recipe can be
doubled as many times as you want. This recipe makes 1 (2-ounce; 56.7-gram) sterile
jar.
Brown sugar
Jojoba oil
Finely ground apricot kernel meal
Preservative
1. Place the bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh all the ingredients
one at a time, and place in the bowl of a food processor.
2. Grind for at least 1 minute, and package in a sterile jar.
205
BEAUTY BIT
Apricot kernel meal is dried apricot kernels that have been ground into a very
fine meal. Its often used in exfoliants to gently remove dead skin.
His Normal and Dry Skin Exfoliant

This is a great exfoliant for most types of skin and ages. This recipe can be doubled
as many times as you want. This recipe makes 1 (2-ounce; 56.7-gram) sterile jar.
Jojoba beads
Sweet almond oil
Preservative
Prepare as directed in the His Oily Skin Exfoliant recipe.
Making Mens Skin-Tightening Masks

Men need to use masks, too. After all, they have the same pollutants in their skin as
women do. Using a mask once a week helps keep a mans skin tight, his pores clean,
and his skin toxin- and pollutant-free.
To use these masks, remove about 1 tablespoon (14.8 milliliters) and place in your
hand. Add enough distilled water to the powder to make a medium pastethin
enough to spread but not so thin it drips. Spread evenly over his face, avoiding his eye
area. Let dry for about 20 minutes. Have him sit back and relax and enjoy his me
time. Rinse off with warm water and pat dry. Follow mask with a moisturizer.
Heres what you need to make skin-tightening masks:
UCoffee grinder or small food processor
UScale
UBowls
USpatula or spoon
USterile jar or airtight container for storage
IN THE MIRROR
Its been written that Brad Pitt uses these types of products, and we all know what
a handsome hunk he is!
206
His Skin-Tightening and

Moisturizing Mask
This mask is great for any skin type. It not only pulls out all the toxins and pollution
but also moisturizes his skin. This recipe makes 1 (2-ounce; 56.7-gram) sterile jar.
White kaolin clay
Avocado oil
Honeyquat
Preservative

6 drops
1. Place a container on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh each ingredient,
and place it in the bowl of your coffee grinder.
2. Grind the ingredients together for 1 minute, stir ingredients around in bowl,
and grind for another minute. If you dont have a coffee grinder, you can use a
mortar and pestle.
3. Pour mask into a sterile jar until ready to use.
How to use this mask:
1. Remove 1 tablespoon (14.8 milliliters) mask, and mix it with enough water to
make a nice spreadable paste.
2. Smooth the mask over your face and throat, avoiding your eye area.
3. Relax with a book or magazine while your mask dries.
4. Rinse off with warm water, and pat face dry with a soft towel.
5. Follow with a pore-closing toner.
His Exfoliant and Cleansing Mask

Men remove a lot of their dead skin cells when they shave, but this mask gets the cells
his razor doesnt while it also deep-cleans and draws out the pollutants and toxins.
This recipe makes 6 ounces (170.1 grams) or 3 (2-ounce; 56.7-gram) sterile jars.
Kaolin clay (pink, red, black,
or yellow)

Prepare as directed in the His Skin-Tightening and Moisturizing Mask recipe.
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Making Foot-Care Products for Him

Hey guys! You need to take care of those feet! It is not romantic when your feet feel
like sandpaper (or your toenails are so long theyre like claws)! So do yourself and
those around you a favor and care of your feet, whether theyre seriously dry or
theyre well not-so-pleasant-smelling.
Heres what you need to make mens foot-care products:
UStove
UScale
UImmersion blender
UMedium stainless-steel saucepan
UThermometer
USmall plastic or glass bowls
ULarge plastic or stainless-steel bowl
USpatula and spoons
USterile jar(s)
His Exfoliating Foot Cream

This cream removes dead skin while it softens the skin on the feet. Youll actually see
the little balls of dead skin roll off your feet as you rub in this cream. Be sure to rinse
off your feet afterward to remove all the little dead-skin balls. You can double this
recipe as many times as you like. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams).
Grapeseed oil
Sweet almond oil
Jojoba beads

Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Preservative

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1. Prepare as directed in the His Cowboy Two-Step After-Shave Lotion recipe,

and let cool completely.
2. To use, rub feet with cream. Keep rubbing while it rolls off the dead skin
youll actually see little bits of dead skin flake off as you rub. Rinse feet
afterward.
IN THE MIRROR
This exfoliant is great for womens feet, too. Why not treat her to a foot rub and
exfoliant after shes had a long day?
His Stinky Feet Lotion

Lets face it, feet stink. They sweat in our shoes, and bacteria grow, causing foot odor.
Use this cream every morning, and your feet wont have a foul odor at the end of the
day when you take off your shoes. Women can use this lotion, too! Its not just for
men. You can double this recipe as many times as you like to make the batch size you
want. This recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams), 3 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) sterile
bottles, or 6 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) sterile bottles.
Sweet almond oil
Grapeseed oil (or your choice)
Cocoa butter
Emulsifying wax
Distilled water
Aloe vera juice
Nutrasorb
Essential oil blend
Preservative

.6 ounce (17 grams)
To make the essential oil blend, use equal parts (2.8 grams) of the following to make
.5 ounce:
Basil essential oil

Prepare as directed in the His Cowboy Two-Step After-Shave Lotion recipe, and
pour into sterile bottles.
209
PRETTY POINTER
To add the Nutrasorb without it clumping, mix it with a little of the aloe vera juice
before adding the Nutrasorb to the mixture.
His Stinky Feet Powder

You can achieve the same results as the His Stinky Feet Lotion in a powder form.
Use the powder every morning, just like the lotion, to keep your feet dry and odor
free all day. No longer will you be embarrassed when you remove your shoes. This
recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams) or 6 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) shaker containers.
Skin Flo or Nutrasorb
Cornstarch
Baking soda
Arrowroot
Essential oil blend
Preservative
To make the essential oil blend, use equal parts (2.8 grams) of the following to make
.5 ounce:
Basil essential oil
1. In a jar with a screw-on lid, mix together all the dry ingredients. Put the lid on,
and shake well.
2. Drizzle the essential oil blend and preservative into the jar a little at a time.
Replace the lid, shake like crazy, and drizzle in some more. Repeat until all the
essential oil blend is well incorporated.
3. Dust feet with powder every morning. Dust the insides of your shoes, too, for
extra coverage.
BEAUTY BIT
Skin Flo, also called Dry Flo, reduces the greasy or oily feeling left on the skin
from lotions, creams, and other skin care products. Its made from natural starch.
A similar product, Nutrasorb, does the same thing.
210
His Peppermint Foot Cream

At the end of the day, this cream will relax and rejuvenate his feet. This recipe makes
16 ounces (453.6 grams), 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) sterile jars, or 4 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram)
sterile jars.
Cocoa butter
Grapeseed oil
Sweet almond oil
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Distilled water
Preservative

His Seriously Dry and Cracked Foot Mask

This is a very hydrating foot mask that soothes and helps heal dry and chapped skin.
This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams), 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) sterile jars, or 4
(4-ounce; 113.4-gram) sterile jars.
Lanolin
Sweet almond oil
Apricot kernel oil
Castor oil
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Aloe vera juice
Preservative
1. Prepare as directed in the His Cowboy Two-Step After-Shave Lotion recipe,

and let cool completely.
2. To use, apply a medium-thick coat of mask to your feet. Allow to sit for 30
minutes. Use a tissue to wipe off any excess mask.
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PRETTY POINTER
For extra benefits, wrap feet in plastic cling wrap after applying the mask.
His Foot Butter

This wonderful creamy butter makes his feet feel soft and touchable, especially if
its massaged into his feet nightly. This recipe makes 1 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) or 2
(4-ounce; 113.4-gram) sterile jars.
Shea butter
Mango butter
Oil (your choice)
Preservative
Fragrance (optional)
1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh your butters and oils
one at a time, and place them in a large bowl.
2. Use an electric mixer and whip the butters, oil, and preservative until it is light
and airy.
3. Add the preservative and fragrance, and whip again until well incorporated.
4.. Package in sterile jar(s).
PRETTY POINTER
To make the butters whip easier, soften them by either letting them set out on
the counter or by popping them in the microwave and heating on low power in
1-minute spurts. And as for oils, we recommend avocado, grapeseed, or sweet
almond oil for this recipe, but feel free to use whatever oil you like!
Making Massage Oil for Him

What would a chapter of mens products be without a recipe for massage oil? I doubt
theres a man alive who doesnt enjoy getting a massage every once in a while. What
better way to pamper your partner than by giving him a massage? Maybe hell return
the favor and give you one, too!
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Heres what you need to make his massage oil:

UBowl
UFunnel
UScale
U4-ounce (113.4-gram) bottle
USpoon
His Massage Oil

Keep the love and romance in your relationship with this delicious massage oil. Just
weigh the ingredients, bottle, and use. Warming the oil before giving a massage
makes it even more relaxing. This recipe makes 1 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) sterile bottle.
Macadamia nut oil
Kukui nut oil or pumpkin seed oil
Apricot kernel oil
Meadowfoam seed oil

1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh your first oil and set
it aside.
2. Place another bowl on the scale, push the tare button, and weigh the next oil,
pouring it into the bowl with the first oil. Repeat until all the oils have been
weighed. Stir the oils together.
3. Using a funnel, pour the oil mixture into a sterile bottle.
I hope you will find a lot of recipes in this chapter with which to pamper the men in
your life!
The Least Need to Know
t Knowing what skin types and needs your man has helps you pick the right recipe
or formula for him.
t You can help that teenage boy with his acne and teach him how he needs to take
care of his skin by making him personalized manly products.
t Does your man have rough feet? Theres a recipe or two here to fix that problem!
t Get out the rope and handcuffs. You might need them for tying him down while
he gets his first facial!
Chapter
Final Bits and Pieces
13
In This Chapter
t Matching your nail polish to your lipstick
t Fun, glittery items for teens and tweens
t Hand sanitizer, shower sinus tabs, and other useful products
t Special-care items for problem skin
Now for some things that just didnt really fit in any of the other chapters. This is
our this-and-that, odds-and-ends, bits-and-pieces chapter.
Home-crafters have been making many of these products for years and years, and not
all of these recipes are original to us. But were sure youll find lots of recipes in this
chapter fun to make and use.
Note that for some of these recipes, you may need to refer to another chapter in the
book for directions. When so, we alert you to this fact and tell you which chapter and
recipe to turn to.
Those Pearly Whites

In Chapter 1, we discussed the dangers of commercial toothpastes. But theres no
need to worry if you make your own dental care products.
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Peppermint Toothpowder
This all-natural toothpowder may take a little getting used to, but your teeth and
gums will be healthier and whiter when you use it. Its simple to make and use. Just
wet your toothbrush, dip it in the powder, and brush as usual. Youll feel the differ
ence from the very first time you use it. This recipe makes .9 ounce (25.5 grams).
Kaolin clay
Bicarbonate soda (baking soda)
Finely ground sea salt
Peppermint or spearmint
essential oil

1 to 3 drops
1 drop
1. Weigh the ingredients on your scale and pour them into the bowl of your
grinder or mortar and pestle.
2. Grind the ingredients together for 1 minute.
3. Store toothpowder in an airtight container in between uses.
4. When ready to use, put a little powder in your hand and add a few drops
peppermint essential oil and enough tea tree essential oil to the rest of the
ingredients to make a paste.
Healthy Gums Toothpowder

If you have gum issues or cavities, this recipe is good to use. Myrrh kills bacteria that
attack the teeth and gums. This recipe makes 1 cup (236.6 milliliters).
1
Finely ground sea salt

Bicarbonate soda (baking soda)
Myrrh

8 drops
Lemon essential oil
5 drops
Prepare as directed in the Peppermint Toothpowder recipe.

IN THE MIRROR
As noted earlier, we dont include the amount of preservative or scent as part
of the 100 percent makeup of these recipes. Scent is optional, and the amount
of preservative depends on the type and brand of preservative you use. (See
Appendix E.)
Chapter 13:Final Bits and Pieces
215
Get Your Nails Noticed!

Every beauty book should include a few recipes that help the nails and cuticles. The
hand creams and lotions in earlier chapters do help, but sometimes they arent enough.
Kukui and Shea Cuticle Cream

Give your cuticles some tender loving care with kukui nut oil and shea butter! Just rub
a little cream into your cuticles every day to keep them soft and moisturized. Healthy
cuticles nourish and grow healthy nails. This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams).
Shea butter
Kukui nut oil
White beeswax
Preservative
.6 ounce (17 grams)

.6 ounce (17 grams)
1. Weigh all the ingredients and place them in a saucepan set over low heat. Heat
until all the beeswax has melted. Remove the saucepan from heat.
2. Stir and pour into a small, 2-ounce (56.7-gram) sterile jar. Let stand until com
pletely cool. Screw on lid.
3. To use, rub a little cream into each of your cuticles every day or when theyre
feeling dry.
Cuticle Oil
This recipe uses more common and less expensive oil but still offers the same benefits,
moisturizing and nourishing the cuticles. This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams).
Shea butter
Jojoba oil
Sweet almond oil
Grapeseed oil
Vitamin E
Preservative
Fragrance
2 drops
1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the shea butter, and
place it in a microwavable bowl or in a saucepan over low heat.
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2. Using the microwave, heat using low power in short spurts until the butter is
almost melted. Remove and stir until all the butter has melted. Do the same if
you are using a stove. Remove the butter from the heat while a few unmelted
pieces remain, and stir it until it is completely melted.
3. Place a fresh bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the other oils,
and add them to the melted shea butter. Stir well.
4. Add the vitamin E and preservative. Stir everything together.
5. Pour mixture into a sterilized 2-ounce (56.7-gram) roller ball bottle or a 2-ounce
(56.7-gram) bottle with a flip disc top.
Cuticle Stick
I love the convenience of having my cuticle oil in a stick form, and I hope you will,
too! You can carry it in your bag and take it with you everywhere. When you want
to use it, just apply it to your cuticles and gently rub in. This recipe makes about
5 ounces (141.7 grams), or enough to fill 33 small lip balm tubes.
Soy wax or beeswax
Shea butter
Mango butter
Sunflower oil
Vitamin E
Preservative

1. Put a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the wax and butters.
2. Put another bowl on the scale, push the tare button, and weigh the remaining
ingredients except the preservative. Set them aside for now.
3. Put another small bowl on the scale, push the tare button, and weigh the preser
vative. Set aside for now.
4. In a saucepan over low heat or in a microwavable container using low heat and
short spurts, slowly heat the ingredients until theyre almost completely melted.
5. Add the oil and vitamin E. Let it cool down a bit, and add the preservative. Stir
everything together, and quickly pour into lip balm tubes.
SAFETY FIRST
Dont forget to label this product! It would be a very yucky-tasting lip balm.
217
Custom Nail Polish

You can use the mica color grinds in earlier chapters to make awesome nail polish.
Buy a bottle of clear nail polishany brand and type!and match your lipstick or
your eye shadow, or just use one of the pretty color grinds you like. Makes 1 bottle of
nail polish.
Store-bought clear nail polish
Color grind from lip or eye chapter
1 bottle
1. Pour a little bit of the polish out into a small bowl, and add the color grind. Stir
well, and return mixture to the bottle.
2. Recap and shake thoroughly until color grind is well incorporated in the polish.
3. Test to ensure theres enough color. If not, add a tad more color grind and shake
again.
For Teen Girls! And Almost-Teens, Too!

Young girls love to be sparkly. So here are a few sparkly recipes sure to be a hit with
the teens and tweens in your life.
Glitter Gel
This is a fun and simple recipe thats sure to please the preteens, teens, and even post
teens! This recipe can be doubled as many times as needed to make the recipe size
you want. This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams).
Very thick aloe vera gel
Very fine glitter or mica
Preservative

5 drops
1. Place a bowl on your scale, and push the tare button. Weigh each ingredient one
at a time.
2. Mix all the ingredients together, and stir well.
3. Pour into a sterile 2-ounce (56.7-gram) jar. Screw on the cap.
218
Glitter Spray
Whats more fun than a glitter spray? This spray leaves a light dusting of glitter on
the skin. This recipe makes 8 ounces (226.8 grams), or enough to fill 1 (8-ounce;
226.8-gram) fine-mist spray bottle.
Distilled water
Glycerin
Very fine glitter or mica
Perfumers alcohol
Fragrance

11 2 teaspoons (7.4 milliliters)
1
1. Place a bowl on your scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the distilled water,
glycerin, and glitter one at a time.
2. Mix them together, and using a funnel, pour them into a sterile fine-mist spray
bottle.
3. Put another bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the perfumers
alcohol and fragrance in separate bowls. Set aside for now.
4. Add the fragrance to the bowl with the alcohol. Stir for 1 or 2 minutes. When
thats well blended, add to the spray bottle with the other ingredients. Cap and
shake well. Shake well again before each use.
Fragrant Body Spray

For this lightly scented body spray, youll need bottles that have a fine-mist sprayer
top. You can even use this same recipe to make spray cologne for guys! This recipe
makes 8 ounces (226.8 grams), or 1 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) fine-mist spray bottle.
Cyclomethicone
Perfumers alcohol

1. Place a glass measuring cup on your scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the
ingredients one at a time, pouring each one into your spray bottle as you weigh
them.
2. Screw the spray top on tight, and shake well. Shake well again before each use.
219
Solid Perfume
This solid perfume is fun. You can toss one pot or jar in your bag and apply it when
ever you need a little something extra. You will need 1-ounce (28.4-gram) lip pots or
eye shadow jars for these perfumes, and its best to weigh in grams. You may double
this recipe as many times as you like. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Oil (your choice)
Beeswax
Cosmetic glitter (optional)

1 pinch
1. Put a small microwavable container on your scale, and push the tare button to
zero out the weight of the container. Weigh the oil and beeswax. Pour into a
microwave-safe bowl, and set aside.
2. Put another small container on your scale, and again push the tare button to
zero out the weight of this new container. Weigh the scent.
3. Repeat for the glitter.
4. Melt the oil and beeswax in the microwave, on medium heat and in 1-minute
spurts. Remove from the microwave, and stir in the scent and glitter.
5. Pour mixture into small sterile lip pots or eye shadow jars.
Zit Be Gone
Get spots or breakouts? This recipe helps clear them up quickly! The roller-ball
bottle makes it a snap to apply to each spot, one at a time. This recipe makes
2 ounces (56.7 grams), or enough to fill 1 (2-ounce; 56.7-gram) roller-ball bottle.
Castor oil
Meadowfoam seed oil
Preservative
20 drops

10 drops
10 drops
1. Place a glass measuring cup on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the
first oil. Push the tare button again and weigh the second oil.
2. Mix all weighed ingredients together, and pour into a sterile roller-ball bottle.
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3. Using a 3mm pipette, drop the correct number of drops of each essential oil into
the roller-ball bottle.
4. Put the roller ball and cap on the bottle, and shake well.
Other Useful Odds and Ends

Now for some other interesting or useful products. Some of these make nice gifts as
well.
Pregnant Belly Balm

This balm, packaged in deodorant push-up tubes, is perfect for an expectant mother
to carry in her purse and use whenever the need arises or when her skin starts to
itch due to stretching. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams), or enough for 16
(1-ounce; 28.4-gram) push-up deodorant tubes.
Beeswax pastilles
Candelilla wax
Cocoa butter
Shea butter
Mowrah or mango butter
Meadowfoam seed oil
Sweet almond oil
Avocado oil
Pumpkin seed oil

Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Dry Skin Facial Balm recipe in Chapter 6.
Stretch Mark Oil

The oil is very much like the Pregnant Belly Balm, but it gives more moisturizing.
This is best suited to use after your bath. It only takes a minute to completely soak
into the skin. This recipe makes 3.5 ounces (99.2 grams).
Fractionated coconut oil

Cocoa butter (melted)
Apricot kernel oil

221
Mix all the ingredients together, and pour into a roller-ball bottle or a spray bottle.
Hand Sanitizer
We all use hand sanitizer, but theyre often very drying to the skin so we then find
the need to follow it with lotion. This recipe is not drying, and its just as effective.
This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams).
Very thick aloe vera gel
Alcohol (regular)
1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the aloe vera gel.
2. Add alcohol, and stir well.
3. Using a funnel, pour the mixture into a sterile squeeze bottle or a toggle bottle.
Let completely cool.
Fragrance Stones
This recipe is all over the Internet. I dont know who first made these fragrance stones,
but Im glad they did! They are easy and fun to make. You can put them in a bowl and
use them as a room freshener or maybe in your drawers with your favorite sweaters
anywhere you want a nice scent. Try not to make the rocks very large. I make mine
just a little bigger than pebble size so I can have more rocks.
Flour
Salt
Cornstarch
Fragrance oil
Coloring
11 2 cups (354.9 milliliters)
1
Boiling water
Glitter
1 teaspoon (4.9 milliliters; or as desired)
1. Mix all the dry ingredients together.

2. Add fragrance oil and coloring to the boiling water.
222
3. Stir into the dry ingredients. When a paste forms, knead the dough for a few
minutes. Add the glitter, and work into dough.
4. Form into little balls and flatten them to look like rocks, or roll out the dough
and cut out shapes with cookie cutter.
5. Let dough dry. The dough rocks will dry very hard and give off fragrance for a
month or two.
Lotion Bars
Home-crafters have been making these lotion bars for years. We use deodorant tubes
as the containers for the lotion bars. This recipe makes 10 ounces (283.5 grams), or
enough to fill 10 (1-ounce; 28.4-gram) push-up deodorant tubes.
Shea butter
Cocoa butter
Beeswax
Oil (your choice)
1. In a saucepan over low heat, melt the butters slowly. Just before the butters are
completely melted, remove from heat and stir until they finish melting.
2. Melt the beeswax in the microwave. When melted, add to the melted butters.
Add oil and fragrance.
3. Stir well and pour into sterile deodorant tubes. Let sit on the counter to cool for
several hours. When cool, put the caps on, and theyre ready to roll.
Un-Petroleum Jelly
Years ago I found this recipe on the Internet. It makes a nice jelly like Vaseline. Use
in recipes in place of Vaseline or lanolin. You can also use this on babys bum to
protect from diaper rash. This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams).
Beeswax
Oil (your choice)
Preservative
1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the wax.
2. In a disposable microwavable container, melt the wax on low heat until its
completely melted.
223
3. While the wax is melting, put another bowl on the scale and push the tare button. Weigh the oil.
4. When the wax has completely melted, pour the oil and preservative into the
melted wax and stir well.
5. Pour mixture into a sterile jar and let sit on the counter overnight to cool.
When completely cooled, place the cap on the jar, and its ready to use.
PRETTY POINTER
Make the Un-Petroleum Jelly a diaper rash ointment by adding 1 teaspoon
(4.9 milliliters) grapefruit essential oil. Do not use on babies under the age of 3
months, though.
Shower Sinus Tabs

These sinus tabs are perfect for those who suffer from allergies and head colds. Just
throw a tab in the bottom of your tub where the water will hit it. While you take
your shower, the vapors will help clear out your stuffed nose. You make them just like
regular bath bombs, except you boil the water and use it to melt the menthol crystals.
This recipe makes 24 (1-ounce; 28.4-gram) sinus tabs.
Baking soda
Cornstarch
Distilled water
Menthol crystals
Sweet almond oil
Citric acid
3
1. Measure the baking soda and cornstarch, and put in a large bowl. Mix
together well.
2. Measure the distilled water, and bring it to a boil. Add menthol crystals, and
stir until dissolved. Add the sweet almond oil and eucalyptus essential oil, and
stir well.
3. Drizzle the liquids into the dry ingredients, and whisk together. Switch to an
electric hand mixer and continue mixing until the liquids are well disbursed
throughout the mixture.
224
4. Add the citric acid, and mix well.

5. Preheat the oven to 170F. Using a bomb tapper or a candy mold, mold your
shower tabs, pack them tight, and place them on a cookie sheet. Turn off the
oven and put the shower tabs in the oven, and close the door for 1 hour.
6. After the tabs have been in the oven for an hour, remove them and using a
knife, remove the tabs from the cookie sheet. Let the tabs air-dry overnight.
The next day, wrap the tabs in foil candy wrappers.
SAFETY FIRST
Dont overdo the menthol crystals. They may smell mild now, but when hot water
or heat hits them, they put off lots of vapors. One time I decided to make my
shower sinus tabs stronger and added 1 full tablespoon (14.8 milliliters). When I
opened the oven door, the smell made me light-headed and I went down on my
knees. We had to open the windows and doors to air out the house! That batch
went straight into the trash.
Take Care of Your Hair

This book wouldnt be complete if we didnt include a few hair product recipes!
Easy Hair Conditioner

This is a quick but very nice hair conditioner recipe. It leaves your hair soft and easy
to wet comb. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams).
Distilled water
Meadowfoam seed oil
Conditioning emulsifier or BTMS
Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Thick and Luscious Body Butter recipe in Chapter 7.
BEAUTY BIT
BTMS is a great conditioning pellet that also emulsifies. Its really cool and easy to
work with.
After the emulsion has cooled, you may want to add 3 percent each of silk amino acid
and honeyquat for extra shine and conditioning.
225
Conditioning Spray for Dry Hair

There are times when we want to refresh our hair and give it a little extra shine. The
essential oils used in this conditioning spray help dry and brittle hair. Just lightly
spray your hair when it feels dry, or use it after youve shampooed and your hair is
still wet. This recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Perfumers alcohol
Basil essential oil
10 drops
10 drops
10 drops
10 drops
1. Blend all the ingredients together, and pour into a fine-mist spray bottle.
2. Spray on your dog when he or she needs a little freshening.
Conditioning Spray for Oily Hair

For oily hair, you use a different blend of essential oils. These help slow the scalp
from producing so much oil. Just lightly spray it on your hair when its wet. This
recipe makes 1 ounce (28.4 grams).
Perfumers alcohol
10 drops
10 drops
10 drops
10 drops
1. Weigh your alcohol, and count the drops of essential oil.

2. Blend all the ingredients together, and pour into a fine-mist spray bottle.
For Special Skin Treatment

At some time or another, nearly everyone has a rash or overly dried-out skin. For those
times, we offer several useful recipes youll wonder how you ever got along without!
226
Cracked Heels and Hands Balm

Are your hands and heels very chapped? This balm helps you soothe and heal the
skin. This recipe makes 2 (8-ounce; 226.8-gram) jars or 4 (4-ounce; 113.4-gram) jars.
Candelilla wax
Shea butter
Lanolin
Meadowfoam seed oil
Vitamin E
Preservative

1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the wax and butter.
2. Place them in a microwavable bowl, and melt on low heat using short spurts.
Just before the butter has completely melted, add lanolin and stir until they
finish melting.
3. Put another bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the oils, and
add each one to the butter and wax mixture.
4. Add the vitamin E and stir well.
5. Let cool down to 110F and add the fragrance and preservative. Pour into sterile
jars.
6. To use, just before bed, coat hands and/or feet with balm and cover with socks
or gloves overnight.
Rash Spray
Rashes are uncomfortable to say the least, and this spray will help soothe the irritated
skin while it helps heal. This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams).

40 drops
40 drops
40 drops
227
1. Place a cup or bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh the fraction
ated coconut oil and add the drops of essential oils. Pour into a fine-mist spray
bottle.
2. Spray as needed on rashes.
Red Skin Balancing Spray

This spray helps return red skin blotches to normal. This recipe makes 4 ounces
(113.4 grams).
Algae extract
Borage oil
Jojoba oil

.6 ounce (17 grams)
1. Place a bowl on the scale, and push the tare button. Weigh each ingredient one
at a time, and pour them into a sterilized 4-ounce (113.4-gram) fine-mist sprayer
bottle.
2. Spray on as needed.
Antifungal Cream
This lotion not only stops fungus growth, it also stops feet or underarms from smell
ing. This recipe makes 16 ounces (453.6 grams).
Aloe vera juice
Glycerin
Coconut oil
Emu oil
Karanja oil
Neem oil
Stearic acid
Emulsifying wax
Rosemary oleo resin
Vitamin E
Neem extract
Essential oil blend
Preservative

.6 ounce (17 grams)
228

Ginger essential oil
3.6 grams
2.4 grams
2.5 grams
Arnica Balm
Have a backache, knee ache, or any kind of body ache? Try this balm. Youll be
amazed at how quickly it relieves your aches and pains. Just rub the balm into the
achy part, and go about your business. After a few minutes, youll realize youre not
hurting anymore, or not hurting as bad. The relief lasts up to 2 hours per application.
I use this right before I mop my floors to avoid the resulting aches. This recipe makes
Triple-strength arnica-infused
sunflower oil
Candelilla wax
Essential oil pain blend
Preservative


2.1 grams
.7 gram
2.2 grams
.7 gram

Helichrysum essential oil
.7 gram
.7 gram
1. Weigh the wax and add it to a saucepan. Set it over low heat and melt.
2. Weigh and add the oil to the melted wax. Let mixture cool down to 110F, and
add the preservative and essential oil blend. Pour into sterile jars.
3. The mixture will thicken as it cools. Place the caps on the jars nice and tight.
IN THE MIRROR
What makes this an essential oil pain blend? The lavender essential oil is used for
numbing; the chamomile is anti-inflammatory; the peppermint adds heat; and
the ginger, lemongrass, and helichrysum help nerve endings.
229
All-Purpose Hand Cream

This recipe may seem like it has some unusual ingredients, and in a way it does. Still,
its very healing and conditioning for the hands and elbows. This recipe makes 16
Aloe vera juice
Black cumin oil
Castor oil
Yarrow-infused sunflower oil
Meadowfoam seed oil
Karanja oil
Neem oil
Stearic acid
Emulsifying wax
Rosemary oleo resin
Vitamin E
Essential oil
Preservative

Rashes-and-More Cream
My grandson loved this cream when he wore diapers. He had very sensitive skin, and
many of the creams and diaper-rash products burned and stung his skin. We would
use this on him, and it didnt burn or irritate his delicate skin. This cream works
on all types of rashes, helping soothe and heal irritated skin. This recipe makes 16
Aloe vera juice
Emu or ostrich oil
Emulsifying wax
Stearic acid
Z-Cote zinc oxide
Essential oil blend
Preservative

230

German chamomile essential oil
Carrot seed oil
.2 gram
.8 gram
.8 gram
2.7 grams
1.1 grams
Total Body Balm

Head-to-toe softness! This recipe makes 24 ounces (680.4 grams).
Cocoa butter
Shea butter
Candelilla wax
Avocado oil
Emu oil
Jojoba oil
Vitamin E
Preservative
Prepare as directed in the Dry Skin Facial Balm recipe in Chapter 6.

PRETTY POINTER
If youd rather not use an animal productemu oilyou can substitute meadow
foam seed oil instead.
Soothing Oils for Mature Skin

As we get older, our skin needs more help retaining oil to maintain soft skin. In
this section, we give you a few intense oils that help mature skin stay soft and well
moisturized all day long.
231
Velvet Skin Oil for Mature Skin

Rosehip seed oil is known to lighten the age and brown spots we all tend to get as we
grow older. This oil is an excellent choice as an ingredient in facial soaps for mature
skin. This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams).
Rosehip seed oil
Meadowfoam seed oil
Peach kernel oil
Macadamia nut oil
Vitamin E
Rosemary oleo resin

.6 ounce (17 grams)
.6 ounce (17 grams)
1
Blend ingredients together and pour into a sterile bottle.
Nourishing Oil for Mature Skin

The oils in this recipe do a double duty because they add much-needed vitamins and
nutriments. This recipe makes 4 ounces (113.4 grams).
Vitamin E
Peach kernel oil
Rosehip seed oil
Macadamia nut oil
Rosemary oleo resin
1
Blend ingredients together and pour into a sterile bottle.
Scar Tissue Oil

We all have scars from surgeries or childhood injuries, perhaps. The recipes in this
section help fade and minimize those scars. Once youve made the recipe, pour it into
a small brown glass bottle, and keep bottle out of direct sunlight. (This helps it last
longer.) Then simply apply twice a day to scars.
In addition to the Stretch Mark Oil recipe earlier in the chapter, these oils work on
stretch marks, too.
232
SAFETY FIRST
Before you use these products on scar tissue, in open cuts, or on surgical incisions,
the skin must be healed first.
Scar Tissue Oil

This oil helps to fade and diminish scars and smooth out the scar tissue. This recipe
makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams).
Borage oil
Thistle-infused safflower oil
Vitamin E oil
Rosehip seed oil
Vitamin A
.6 ounce (17 grams)
1. Blend ingredients together and pour into a sterile bottle.

2. Apply to scars twice a day.
Rosehip Scar Tissue Oil

This scar tissue oil offers a different blend of ingredients. It does wonders on scar
tissue. This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams).
Thistle extract
Borage oil
Vitamin E
Rosehip seed oil

Vitamin A
1. Blend ingredients together and pour into a sterile bottle.

2. Apply to scars twice a day.
Making an Essential Oil Blend

Many essential oils can work together to give you a desired effect. Zonella experi
mented with different amounts and different combinations until she found just
the right blend. Here she shares the pain blend and the antifungal blend in larger
amounts so you can use these blends in more of your formulas. She has used these
blends for years in many of her products, and they do work!
233
Start with a sterile 8-ounce (226.8-gram) brown glass bottle. An 8-ounce bottle only
holds about 7 ounces (198.4 grams) essential oil.
SAFETY FIRST
All essential oils need to be kept out of the light and out of plastic bottles. The
plastic will break down as well as absorb into the essential oils. Always use brown
glass bottles for your essential oils. If you order your essential oils and they come
packaged in plastic, transfer them to brown glass bottles as soon as possible.
Essential Oil Blend for Pain Relief

This is Zonellas blend of essential oils she uses in her pain creams. This recipe makes
Helichrysum essential oil
1. Blend the oils together and pour into a sterile bottle.

2. Store in a cool, dark place. To use, just weigh the amount you need.
PRETTY POINTER
Helichrysum essential oil is very expensive these days, so you might want
to omit this essential oil from blends until the price comes back down. Its a
wonderful and beneficial essential oil, but the price today makes it not cost
effective. You can buy a type of helichrysum essential oil from Liberty Naturals
called helichrysum gymnocephalum for much less. It works just as well as the
expensive type.
Antifungal Essential Oil Blend

This is Zonellas essential oil blend she uses for several of her formulations for fungus
and body odor control. This recipe makes 7 ounces (198.4 grams).
3 ounces (85 grams)
234
1. Blend the oils together and pour into a sterile bottle.

2. Store in a cool, dark place. To use, just weigh the amount you need.
t For just about whatever beauty product youre looking for, you can find it in this
bookor in this catch-all chapter of fun recipes!
t There are many fun projects for preteens and teens that you can share with them.
t Dont forget what you learned in the other chapters about sterilizing your contain
ers, equipment, and workspace. That all applies here, too!
Glossary
Appendix
allantoin A substance that is very soothing on the skin.
aloe vera The juice or gel, comes from the leaves of the aloe vera plant. It is a clear
liquid that soothes and heals our skin. It is often used in cosmetics and after-sun care
products.
alpha hydroxy acid It comes from the natural sugars in fruits and milk. It is used
to rejuvenate the skin.
amino acid There are many types of amino acids. They come from proteins and
many are essential for a healthy body.
analgesic
Pain relieving; a substance that relieves pain.
anhydrous
A liquid, such as an oil, or a formulation that does not contain water.
anti-inflammatory Stops inflammation of the skin.
anti-irritant
Does not cause irritation of the skin or stops irritation.
antibacterial
Kills bacteria and can be used to treat infections.
antifungal
Stops the growth of fungi or mold.
antioxidant A synthetic or natural material that slows oils becoming rancid and
also slows the aging of skin cells.
antiperspirant
Stops the body from releasing sweat.
antiseptic Prevents infections.
antispasmodic Relieves muscle cramps.
antiviral
Does not allow a virus to grow.
aromatherapy
aromatic
The use of essential oils to help with a persons emotions.
Having a strong fragrance or odor.
ascorbic acid
Vitamin C in powder form.
236
Appendix A
astringent A liquid used to tighten the skin and remove oils. An astringent is
stronger than a toner.
beeswax Wax obtained from the honeycomb. Used in candles, and to thicken lip
balms and lipsticks.
bentonite clay
A white clay used in facial masks to absorb the excess oils.
bleaching The part of the refining process that removes the color of an oil or fat.
Red palm oil is bleached to take the red out of it.
botanical
Describes something related to a plant.
calendula (a.k.a. marigold) An herb often used in fresheners, soothing creams, and
sensitive skin products. Sometimes it is used in deodorants.
candelilla wax A wax used to thicken balms and lipsticks. The wax on the market
today doesnt actually come from the candelilla plant like you would expect, but it
actually comes from the stems of a different plant in the same family called Euphorbia
Antisyphillitica.
carnauba wax A wax that comes from the fan palm and is used to thicken balms
and lipsticks. It is harder than candelilla wax.
carrier oil An oil that will penetrate the skin and is used to dilute and carry an
essential oil or essential oil blend into the skins tissues. Also used for infusing herbs.
carrot oil
A gold-colored oil that comes from the root of the carrot, not the seed.
carrot seed oil An oil made from the seeds of carrots. It has many benefits for the
hair and is used in lots of hair care products.
castor oil
soaps.
An oil that comes from the castor bean. Its used in many cosmetics and
cetearyl alcohol This is made from palm oil and is used in creams and lotions to
add moisture to the skin.
chamomile An herb used in many products for blond hair to enhance color and in
cosmetics for inflamed and tender skin. It is also an antioxidant.
chandler A person who makes and sells candles.
cicatrisant A substance that helps to heal scar tissue.
citric acid A natural powder ingredient that comes from citrus and pineapples. It
lowers the pH levels in skin care products and also adds the fizz in bath bombs.
cleansing cream (a.k.a. cold cream) A cream made for dissolving and removing
makeup; it is applied to the face and then wiped off.
Glossary
237
coffee grinder An electric device that grinds coffee beans for making coffee. In our
case we use this tool to grind oxides, micas, and powders together to make mineral
makeup. It can also be use to grind dried herbs.
cold pressed The process in which oils are extracted by machines. The process
keeps the temperature below 125F.
collagen Proteins that keep our skin from sagging and wrinkling.
comedogenic
An oil that clogs pores. A noncomedogenic wont clog the pores.
conditioner A creamy, moisturizing product to put on hair after shampooing to
make it easier to detangle and comb
copra
It is the dried meat of a coconut. Coconut oil is obtained from the copra.
cosmetic Products that we use on our bodies to cleanse or to enhance our
appearance.
cosmetic grade
Ingredients that are FDA-approved for use in cosmetics.
cream A formulation for our skin that is thicker than a lotion. A cream has more
oils in it than a lotion.
cream rinse
A hair rinse used after shampooing that helps to detangle the hair.
cucumber A vegetable often used in facial creams, lotions, and cleansers.
Cucumbers have astringent and soothing properties.
D&C
Prefix showing that the FDA has approved a color for drug and cosmetic use.
deodorize
The process in which odors are removed.
dimethicone A silicone that is an organic polymer that is a moisturizing emollient
and used in skin and hair products.
elder flower
properties.
A flowering plant used in eye and skin creams for its astringent
emollient A substance that is soothing and softening to the skin and also protects
the skin.
emulsifying wax A wax used to combine oils with water when manufacturing
lotions and creams.
emulsion
wax.
epidermis
Epsom salt
A mixture of oil and water that has been blended by using an emulsifying
The top outer layer of the skin.
Magnesium sulfate. This draws toxins out of the body.
238
Appendix A
essential oil An oil thats steamed or pressed from plant leaves, buds, or stems.
These natural oils offer many benefits.
ewax
See emulsifying wax.
exfoliant A product that gently removes dead skin cells.
expeller pressed The extraction of oil using a machine to press the oil from a plant
or seed. The heat never gets higher than 220F.
FD&C Prefix showing that a product has been approved to be used in Foods,
Drugs, and Cosmetics.
fixative A substance used to hold fragrance and essential oil, whose scent tends to
fade, in a product such as soap, lotions, or candles.
fixed oils Vegetable oils in their natural state. Olive oil, coconut oil, and sunflower
oil, to name a few, are all fixed oils.
flash point The temperature that heated essential or fragrance oil vapors will ignite
when exposed to an open flame at a certain temperature. Example: A fragrance rated
200FP means it will not ignite when used in a candle, unless the temperature of the
wax or container gets over 200F.
floral water
formula
See hydrosol.
A recipe for cosmetics; usually shown in percentages.
fragrance oil A synthetic oil that is made with aroma powders and essential oils in
a synthetic base oil.
French talc A white, silky-feeling, fine powder that is used as a filler in cosmetics.
Helps other powders adhere to the skin.
glycerin
A by-product of soap.
grapefruit seed extract (GSE) A liquid extracted from grapefruit seeds and used
in some cosmetics as a preservative.
herb
Any plant or part of a plant used as a medicine, seasoning, or flavoring.
humectant
hydrolat
Describes something that absorbs water.
See hydrosol.
hydrosol Also called floral water. This is the water left behind after the steam
distilling of essential oils.
immersion blender
together.
A long, skinny, handheld tool used to blend ingredients
Glossary
239
INCI International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. The INCI name is
required when labeling cosmetics marketed in the United States.
infusion
Steeping botanicals in oil or water.
insoluble
alcohol.
Describes something that will not dissolve in a liquid, such as water or
Joy Wax A wax blend of soy and other botanical waxes. Includes a very small per
cent of food grade paraffin wax. This wax is a name brand and only sold at Natures
Garden, an online business.
lanolin A yellow sticky wax-type substance produced and secreted by sheep to
protect their skin and wool. It is very conditioning to the skin.
lip balm A thick substance applied to lips to soothe and moisturize.
magnesium stearate A white, flat powder made from palm oil and magnesium
salts. Used in filler bases for cosmetics.
melting point
The temperature at which a solid becomes a liquid.
micas Once mined from the earth, these mineral powders are now made in labs
under sterile conditions. Shiny and sparkly, they come in all colors.
mineral color corrector A primer made from oxides and powders to correct skin
tones or discolored blotches.
mineral color grind
A blend of micas and/or oxides to create a certain color.
mineral concealer A cosmetic that covers under-eye darkness or blemishes.
mineral eye shadow An eyelid colorant made of micas and oxides.
mineral eyeliner Eyeliner made with oxides and micas as colorant for lining under
eyes and on top of the eyelid.
mineral foundation A blend of oxides and powders used to even facial skin tones.
mineral lip liner

lining the lips.
Lip liner made with a blend of oxides and micas as a colorant for
mineral lipstick Lipstick colored with a blend of oxides and micas, used to color
lips.
mineral makeup
muscovado
Makeup made of oxides, micas, and powders.
A type of unrefined brown sugar. It has a strong molasses flavor.
oxides Once mined from the earth, these minerals are now made in labs under
sterile conditions. Oxides are flat (not sparkly), colored powders.
240
Appendix A
palm kernel stearin A waxy hard oil that comes from the palm kernel.
panthenol
paraffin
Vitamin B5, good for hair and skin.
A petroleum-based solid wax, used in candles and cosmetics.
peptide A peptide is made up of two amino acids and is added to cosmetics to treat
wrinkles.
pipette A disposable plastic dropper used to add measured amounts to formulas.
refine
The process of removing impurities from natural, or crude, oils and butters.
retinol Retinol is an acid made from vitamin A. It is an antioxidant and very impor
tant for our vision and growth of our bones.
rice powder A natural light, white powder made from rice often used in mineral
makeup as part of the base filler.
roller-ball bottles Small glass bottles (usually 1 3-ounce) with a roller ball on the
top so you can roll a product onto your skin.
rose talc
Very similar to French talc. Also used as a filler for cosmetics.
rosemary oleoresin extract (ROE) This is an extract, from the rosemary plant,
used to extend the shelf life of oils and cosmetics.
sea salt Salt produced by evaporation of seawater.
sebum Oil produced by the body to keep skin moisturized. The lack of sebum
produces dry skin.
sericite mica A fine-grain, off-white mica that has a little sheen.
serum A concentrated solution that is used on the face after cleansing.
silk mica A very soft and silky-feeling white powder made from inorganic pigment
powders.
sodium carbonate Washing soda.
soy wax A natural wax that comes from soybeans.
steam distillation A process in which essential oils are extracted from plant materi
als using steam and pressure.
stearic acid Obtained from animal and vegetable fats. Used for hardening or add
ing stiffness to soaps, candles, and lotions.
synthetic
Something thats artificially produced.
talc Used as a powder to absorb oil and take the shine off skin.
Glossary
tocopherol
Natural vitamin E. See also tocopheryl.
tocopheryl
Synthetic vitamin E. See also tocopherol.
241
toner Gentler and not as drying as an astringent. Used after a cleanser to normalize
the pH levels of skin.
tubes, push-up 1-ounce (28.4-gram) to 1.75-ounce (49.6-gram) tubes used for
lotion bars and other hardened products like deodorant that push up from the bottom
of the tube.
tubes, twist-up 1-ounce (28.4-gram) to 1.75-ounce (49.6-gram) tubes used for
lotion bars and other hardened products like deodorant that twist up from the bottom
of the tube.
turbinado sugar Unrefined raw cane sugar that has been steam-cleaned. It is often
used in sugar scrubs and body polishes.
turkey red oil (TRO) Sulfonated castor oil. This oil is often used in bath oils
because it disperses in water and does not leave a slick feel or a ring in the tub.
unflavored gelatin A powder made mostly of proteins that is used in cooking for
making a stable jelly.
unrefined In a natural or original state.
vitamin C See ascorbic acid.
water soluble Dissolvable in water.
wildcrafted Refers to herbs and botanicals grown in the wild without the use of
pesticides or other chemicals.
xanthan gum A natural carbohydrate gum used as a thickener.
zinc oxide
Soothes and heals the skin and is used in sun protection.
INCI Labeling Names
Appendix
When making labels for your natural beauty products, you need to use the proper
name, as dictated by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients
(INCI). It includes the common name and then the botanical name.
The ingredients have to be arranged on the label in the order theyre used. The
ingredient at the top, used at a greater quantity, is followed by less-common ingre
dients, all the way down to the last ingredient, which is the least amount used. Any
ingredient used in a quantity less than 1 percent does not need to be listed.
For an example, lets look at an herbal salve that contains the following ingredients:
Lanolin
Castor oil
Rice bran oil infused with calendula
Rice bran oil infused with chamomile
Rice bran oil infused with comfrey
Rice bran oil infused with neem leaf
Rice bran oil infused with black walnut hull
Wax
Shea butter
Emu oil
Hemp seed oil
Tamanu oil
244
Appendix B
The label will read:

Ingredients: Lanolin, Castor (Ricinus Communis) Seed Oil, Rice (Oryza Sativa)
Bran Oil (and) Calendula (Calendula Officinalis) Flower Extract, Rice (Oryza
Sativa) Bran Oil (and) Chamomile (Anthemis Nobilis) Extract, Rice (Oryza
Sativa) Oil (and) Comfrey (Symphytum Officinalis) Extract, Rice (Oryza Sativa)
Oil (and) Neem (Azadirachta Indica) Leaf Extract, Rice (Oryza Sativa) Bran
Oil (and) Black Walnut ( Juglans Nigra) Shell Extract, Candelilla (Euphorbia
Cerifera) Wax, Shea (Butyrospermum Parkii) Butter, Emu Oil, Hemp Seed
(Cannabis Sativa) Oil, Tamanu (Calophyllum Inophyllum) Oil
The Ingredient and Its INCI Name

Acacia Concinna Extract
Aloe Vera (Barbadensis) Extract
Acacia Dealbata Extract
Aloe Vera (Barbadensis) Leaf Juice
Acerola (Malpighia Glabra) Extract
Aloe Vera (Barbadensis) Leaf Powder
Acerola (Malpighia Punicifolia)
Aloe Vera Gelvaries; check manufac

turer for exact ingredients
Agrimony (Agrimonia Eupatoria) Extract

Alcohol, Denatured Alcohol, Perfumers
(SD Alcohol 40B)
American Centaury (Sabbatia Angularis)

Extract
Alfalfa (Medicago Sativa) Extract
Amla (Emblica Officinalis) Powder
Alfalfa (Medicago Sativa) Leaf Powder
Amla (Emblica Officinalis) Oil
Alkanet (Alkanna Tinctoria) Root

Extract
Amyris (Amyris Balsamifera) Oil
Allantoin
Allspice (Pimento Officinalis) Oil
Almond, Sweet (Hydrogenated Prunus
Amygdalus Dulcis) Butter
Almond, Sweet (Prunus Amygdalus
Dulcis) Meal
Angelica (Angelica Archangelica) Oil

Anhydrous Lanolin (Lanolin)
Anise (Pimpinella Anisum) Extract
Anise (Pimpinella Anisum) Fruit Oil
Annatto Powder (Bixa Orellana)
Annona Muricata Extract
Almond, Sweet (Prunus Amygdalus

Dulcis) Oil
Anthyllis Vulneraria Extract
Aloe (Cocos Nucifera [Coconut] Oil and

Barbadensis Leaf Extract) Butter
Antique Copper Mica
Antioxidant (Vitamin E; ROE; and T-50)
Antique Silver Mica
INCI Labeling Names
Apple (Pyrus Malus) Extract

Apple (Pyrus Malus) Peel Wax
Apple (Pyrus Malus) Water
Apple Cider Vinegar (Acetic Acid)
Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca) Kernel Oil
Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca) Seed
Powder
Aqua (Water)
Argan (Argania Spinosa) Oil
Arnica (INCI of oil arnica is infused in
[and] Arnica Montana Flower Extract)
Arrowroot (Maranta Arundinacea)
Extract
Arrowroot (Maranta Arundinacea)
Powder
Baby Pink (Mica [and] Titanium
Dioxide [and] Glycerin)
Baby Roses (Iron Oxide, Titanium
Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)
Powder
Balm Mint (Melissa Officinalis) Distillate
Balm Mint (Melissa Officinalis) Extract
Balm Mint (Melissa Officinalis) Oil
Balm of Gilead (Commiphora Gileadensis)
Extract
Balsam, Bulgaria (Pinus Balsamea) Oil
Balsam, Canada (Abies Balsamea)
Balsam, Copaiba (Copaifera Officinale)
Root Powder
Ascorbic Acid
Balsam of Peru (Myroxylon Pereirae)
Resin
Atlas Cedarwood (Cedrus Atlantica) Bark

Oil
Baobab (Adansonia Digitata) Oil
Avocado (Hydrogenated Persea

Gratissima) Butter
Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Leaf Juice
Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Root Extract
Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Butter
Basil (Ocimum Basilicum) Extract
Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil
Basil (Ocimum Basilicum) Oil
Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Pure
Basil, Holy (Ocimum Sanctum) Oil
Awhh Purple (Mica [and] Iron Oxide

[and] Titanium Dioxide [and] Glycerin)
Basswood (Tilia Americana) Extract
Aztec Marigold (Tagetes Erecta) Extract
245
Bay (Pimenta Racemosa) Oil
Bayberry (Myrica Cerifera) Extract
Bayberry (Myrica Cerifera) Leaf Extract
Babassu (Orbignya Oleifera) Seed Oil

Baby Blue (Iron Oxide [and] Titanium
Bayberry (Myrica Cerifera) Wax
Bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi)
Extract
246
Appendix B
Bee Balm (Monarda Didyma) Extract

Bee Balm (Monarda Didyma) Oil
Beef Tallow
Beeswax, white pastilies (Cera Alba)
Beet (Beta Vulgaris) Root Powder
Bitter Orange (Citrus Aurantium Amara)

Oil
Peel Extract
Black Cohosh (Cimicifuga Racemosa)
Bentonite Clay
Black Cohosh (Cimicifuga Racemosa)

Extract
Benzaldehyde
Black Cumin (Nigelia Sativa) Seed Oil
Benzoin (Styrax Benzoin) Extract
Black Currant (Ribes Nigrum) Extract
Benzoin (Styrax Benzoin) Gum
Black Currant (Ribes Nigrum) Oil
Benzyl Benzoate USP
Black Locust (Robinia Pseudocacia)

Extract
Bergamot (Citrus Aurantium Bergamia)

Oil
Black Mustard (Brassica Nigra) Extract
Betula Platyphylla Japonica
Black Oxide (Iron Oxide)
Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)
Black Pepper (Piper Nigrum) Extract
Bilberry (Vaccinium Myrtillus) Extract
Black Pepper (Piper Nigrum) Oil
Birch (Betula Alba) Bark Extract
Black Walnut ( Juglans Nigra) Extract
Birch (Betula Alba) Leaf Extract
Black Walnut ( Juglans Nigra) Shell

Extract
Birch (Betula Alba) Oil
Bitter Almond (Prunus Amygdalus
Amara) Extract
Bitter Almond (Prunus Amygdalus
Amara) Oil
Blackberry (Rubus Fruticosus) Extract

Blackberry (Rubus Fruticosus) Leaf
Extract
Blackberry (Rubus Fruticosus) Seeds
Bitter Cherry (Prunus Cerasus) Extract
Bladderwrack (Fucus Vesiculosus) Powder
Bitter Cherry (Prunus Cerasus) Oil
Blessed Thistle (Carbenia Benedicta)

Extract
Extract
Flower Distillate
Flower Extract
Blood Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis)
Oil
Blue Chamomile (Chamomilla Recutita)
Flower Oil
Blue Cohosh (Caulophyllum Thalictroides)
INCI Labeling Names
247
Blue Flag (Iris Versicolor) Extract
Cabbage Rose (Rosa Centifolia) Extract
Blue Sky Blue (Dioxide [and] Glycerin)
Cabbage Rose (Rosa Centifolia) Oil
Borage (Borago Officinalis) Extract
Cabbage Rose (Rosa Centifolia) Water
Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil
Cactus (Cereus Grandiflorus) Extract
Borax
Cade ( Juniperus Oxycedrus Wood) Oil
Bourbon Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia)
Extract
Cajeput (Melaleuca Leucadendron) Oil
Brahmi (Bacopa Monniera) Powder
Brazil (Bertholletia Excelsa) Nut Oil
Bright Gold (Mica)
Broom (Cytisus Scoparius) Extract
Brown Oxide (Iron Oxide)
Brown Sugar (Sucrose)
BTMS Emulsifier (Behentrimonium
Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol)
Buckbean (Menyanthes Trifoliata) Extract
Calamus (Acorus Calamus) Extract

Calamus (Acorus Calamus) Root Powder
Calcium Carbonate
Calendula (Calendula Officinalis) Flower
Extract preceded with the INCI of oil
used for the infusion
Calendula (Calendula Officinalis) Flower
Petals
California Nutmeg (Torreya Californica)
Extract
Buckthorn (Frangula Alnus)
California Nutmeg (Torreya Californica)

Oil
Buckthorn (Frangula Alnus) Extract
Camelina (Camelina Sativa) Seed Oil
Buckwheat (Polygonum Fagopyrum)
Extract
Camellia (Camellia Oleifera) Extract
Bugloss (Lycopsis Arvensis) Extract
Camellia (Camellia Japonica) Oil

Camellia (Camellia Kissii) Oil
Bulgarian Lavender (Lavandula
Angustifolia) Oil
Camellia (Camellia Sinensis) Oil
Burdock (Arctium Lappa) Extract
Camphor (Cinnamomum Camphora)

Bark Oil
Burdock (Arctium Lappa) Seed Oil
Burdock (Arctium Majus) Extract
Candelilla (Euphorbia Cerifera) Wax
Burdock (Arctium Minus) Extract
Canola (Brassica Campestris) Oilalso

known as rapeseed
Butcherbroom (Ruscus Aculeatus) Extract
Caraway (Carum Carvi) Extract
Buttermilk
Caraway (Carum Carvi) Oil
Buttermilk Powder
Caraway (Carum Carvi) Seed Oil
248
Appendix B
Cardamom (Elettaria Cardamomum)

Extract
Chamomile, German (Matricaria
Chamomilla) Water
Cardamon (Elettaria Cardamomum) Oil
Chamomile, Maroc (Ormenis
Multicaulis) Oil
Carnauba (Copernicia Cerifera) Wax

Carrageenan (Chondrus Crispus)
Chamomile, Roman (Anthemis Nobilis)
Oil
Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Root

Extract preceded by INCI of the oil the
carrot is infused in
Chamomile, Roman (Anthemis Nobilis)
Water
Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Seed Oil

Cascara (Rhamnus Purshiana) Extract
Castor (Ricinus Communis) Seed Oil
Castor (Sulfated Ricinus Communis) Seed
Oilalso known as Turkey Red
Catnip (Nepeta Cataria) Extract pre
ceded with INCI of the oil the catnip is
infused in
Catnip (Nepeta Cataria) Oil
Cedarleaf (Thuja Occidentalis) Oil
Cedarwood ( Juniperus Virginiana) Oil
Celandine (Chelidonium Majus) Extract
Century (Agave Americana) Extract
Cetearyl Octanoate
Cetyl Alcohol NF
Chaparral (Larrea Divaricata) Extract
Chaparral (Larrea Mexicana) Extract
Cherry (Prunus Avium) Kernel Oil
Chestnut (Castanea Sativa) Extract
Chia (Salvia Hispanica) Oil
Chickweed (Stellaria Media) Extract
Chicory (Cichorium Intybus) Extract
Chicory (Cichorium Intybus) Leaf
Extract
Chinese Angelica (Angelica Polymorpha
Sinensis) Extract
Chinese Hibiscus (Hibiscus Rosa-
Sinensis) Extract
Chinese Magnolia (Magnolia Biondii)
Bark Extract
Cetyl Octanoate
Chinese Magnolia (Magnolia Biondii)
Extract
Cetyl PPG-2 Isodeceth-7 Carboxylate
Chlorophyll
Chamomile (Anthemis Nobilis) Extract

preceded with INCI of the oil used for
infusion
Chromium Oxide Green (Iron Oxide)
Chamomile, German (Matricaria

Chamomilla) Oil
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum Cassia) Bark
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum Cassia)
Extract
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum Cassia) Oil
INCI Labeling Names
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum Zeylanicum)

Bark Powder
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum Zeylanicum)
Leaf Oil
Citric Acid
Citronella (Cymbopogon Nardus) Oil
Citrus Junos Oil
Citrus Medica Limonium
Clary Sage (Salvia Sclarea) Extract
Clary Sage (Salvia Sclarea) Oil
Clay, Bentonite
249
Coffee (Coffea Arabica Seed Oil [and]
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) Bean
Butter
Colloidal Oatmeal (Avena Sativa)
Kernel Flour
Colocynth (Citrullus Colocynthis)
Colocynth (Citrullus Colocynthis) Extract
Coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara) Extract
Coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara) Leaf
Extract
Combretum Micranthum Extract

Comfrey (Symphytum Officinale) Extract
Clay, Glacial (Canadian Colloidal Clay

[and] Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl
Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate)
Comfrey (Symphytum Officinale) Leaf

Extract
Clay, Red (Montmorillonite)
Comfrey (Symphytum Officinale) Leaf

Powder
Clay, White (Kaolin)

Clematis Vitalba Extract
Clintonia Borealis Extract
Clove (Eugenia Caryophyllus) Bud Oil
Clove (Eugenia Caryophyllus) Leaf Oil
Clove (Eugenia Caryophyllus) Oil
Clover (Trifolium Pratense) Extract
Cocoa (Theobroma Cacao) Butter
Coconut (Cocos Nucifera) Cream
Coconut (Cocos Nucifera) Oil
Comfrey (Symphytum Officinale) Root

Powder
Coneflower (Echinacea Angustifolia)
Extract
Coneflower (Echinacea Angustifolia) Leaf
Extract
Coneflower (Echinacea Pallida) Extract
Coneflower (Echinacea Purpurea) Extract
Coneflower (Echinacea Purpurea) Root
Extract
Coconut (Cocos Nucifera) Pure
Copaiba Balsam (Copaifera Officinalis)
Resin
Coconut (Cocos Nucifera) Shell Powder
Coriander (Coriandrum Officinalis) Oil
Coconut, Fractionated (Caprylic/Capric

Triglyceride) Oil
Coriander (Coriandrum Sativum)
Extract
Coffea Robusta Extract
Coriander (Coriandrum Sativum) Oil
250
Appendix B
Coriander (Coriandrum Sativum) Seed

Oil
Daffodil (Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus)

Extract
Corn (Zea Mays) Cob Meal
Daisy (Bellis Perennis) Extract
Corn (Zea Mays) Flour
Damar (Shorea Robusta)
Corn (Zea Mays) Meal
Dandelion (Taraxacum Officinale)

Extract
Corn (Zea Mays) Oil

Corn (Zea Mays) Starch
Corn Poppy (Papaver Rhoeas) Extract
Cornflower (Centaurea Cyanus) Extract
Cornmint (Mentha Arbensis) Oil
Cornsilk Powder (Zea Mays)
Cottonseed (Gossypium) Oil
Couch Grass (Agropyron Repens) Extract
Coviox T-50 (Tocopherol) Oil
Cream (Bovine Butterfat)
Cucumber (Cucumis Sativus) Fruit
Cucumber (Cucumis Sativus) Juice
Cudweed (Gnaphalium Polycephalum)
Extract
Dandelion (Taraxacum Officinale) Root

Date (Phoenix Dactylifera) Extract
Dead Sea Clay (Kaolinite)
Dead Sea Salt (Sodium Chloride)
Denatured Alcohol
Dendritic (Sodium Chloride)
Dill Weed (Peucedanum Graveolens)
Dimethicone
Dipropylene Glycol USP
Dog Rose (Rosa Canina) Hips Extract
Dog Rose (Rosa Canina) Hips Oil
Dog Rose (Rosa Canina) Leaf Extract
Dog Rose (Rosa Canina) Seed Extract
Cumin (Cuminum Cyminum) Extract
DPG USP (Dipropylene Glycol)
Curled Dock (Rumex Crispus) Extract
Dry-Flo AF (Corn Starch Modified)
Currant (Ribes Rubrum) Extract
Dulcamara (Solanum Dulcamara)

Extract
Cyclomethicone
Cyperus Rotundus Extract
Cypress (Cupressus Sempervirens) Nut
Extract
Cypress (Cupressus Sempervirens) Oil
Cypress, Blue (Callistris Intratropica) Oil
Eastern Pine (Pinus Strobus) Cone

Extract
Eastern Pine (Pinus Strobus) Extract
Ecballium Elaterium Extract
EDTA, Tetrasodium
INCI Labeling Names
Elder Flower (Sambucus Nigra)
Elecampane (Inula Helenium) Extract
251
Fenugreek (Trigonella Foenum-Graecum)

Extract
Elemi (Canarium Luzxonicum) Oil
Feverfew (Chrysanthemum Parthenium)

Extract
Eleuthero Ginseng (Acanthopanax
Senticosus) Extract
Fig (Ficus Carica) Extract
Elm (Ulmus Campestris) Extract
Emu Oil
Emulsifying Wax NF (Cetearyl Alcohol
and Polysorbate 60)
English Oak (Quercus Robur) Extract
Epsom Salt USP (Magnesium Sulfate)
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Citriodora) Oil
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Globulus) Extract
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Globulus) Oil
European Ash (Fraxinus Excelsior)
Extract
Evening Primrose (Oenothera Biennis)
Extract
Evening Primrose (Oenothera Biennis)
Oil
Everlasting (Helichrysum Arenarium)
Extract
Figwort (Scrophularia Nodosa) Extract

Fir Needle (Abies Sibirica) Oil
Flavor Oils (all) (Flavor)
Flax Seed (Linum Usitatissimum) Seed
Oil
Foraha Oil (Tamanu Oil)
Fractionated Coconut (Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride) Oil
Fractionated Shea (Butyrospermum
Parkii) Oil
Fragrance Oils (all) (Fragrance)
Frankincense (Olibanum) Oil
Frankincense, India (Boswellia Carteri)
Oil
Frankincense Oil 10% in Jojoba
(Simmondsia Chinensis [Jojoba] Seed Oil
[and] Olibanum [Frankincense] Oil)
French Rose (Rosa Gallica) Extract
Everlasting (Helichrysum Italicum)
Extract
Everlasting (Helichrysum Stoechas)
Extract
Galbanum (Ferula Galbaniflua) Extract

Galbanum (Ferula Galbaniflua) Resin
Oil
Fennel (Foeniculum Vulgare) Seed
Powder
Galbanum Oil 10% in Jojoba

(Simmondsia Chinensis [Jojoba] Seed Oil
[and] Ferula Galbaniflua [Galbanum]
Resin Oil)
Fennel, Sweet (Foeniculum Vulgare Dulce)

Oil
Garden Balsam (Impatiens Balsamina)

Extract
Faba (Vicia Faba) Bean Extract
252
Appendix B
Garden Balsam (Impatiens Balsamina)

Leaf Extract
Goatweed (Aegopodium Podagraria)
Extract
Garlic (Allium Sativum) Oil
Gold of Pleasure (Camelina Sativa) Oil
Geranium (Pelargonium Graveolens) Oil
Goldenrod (Solidago Odora) Extract
Geranium Rose (Pelargonium Graveolens

Roseum) Oil
Goldenrod (Solidago Virgaurea) Extract
Germall Plus (Diazolidinyl Urea,
Iodopropynl Butylcarbamate)
Germall Plus, Liquid (Propylene
Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynl
Butylcarbamate) Liquid
German Blue Chamomile (Matricaria
Recutita) Flower Water
Goldenseal (Hydrastis Canadensis)
Extract
Goldenseal (Hydrastis Canadensis) Root
Extract
Gotu Kola (Centella Asiatica)
Gourd (Cucurbitaceae) Extract
Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Fruit
German Blue Chamomile (Matricaria
Recutita) Oil
Grape Seed (Vitis Vinifera) Oil
Germander (Teucrium Scorodonia)
Extract
Grapefruit (Citrus Grandis) Peel
Grapefruit (Citrus Grandis) Oil
Ginger (Zingiber Officinale) Extract
Grapefruit (Citrus Grandis) Seed Extract
(GSE)
Ginger (Zingiber Officinale) Root Oil
Green Clay, French (Montmorillonite)
Ginger (Zingiber Officinale) Root
Powder
Green Illite, Clay (Illite Clay)
Ginseng, Panax (Eleutherococcus
Senticocus)
Glacial Clay (Glacial Marine Clay)
Glycerin
Glyceryl Monostearate (Glyceryl
Stearate)
Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis) Leaf
Green Tea Leaf Powder (Camellia
Sinensis) Leaf Powder
GSE (Grapefruit Seed Extract)
Guar (Cyanopsis Tetragonoloba) Gum
Glycolic Acid 70% Solution (Glycolic
Acid [and] Water)
Hazelnut (Corylus Americana) Oil
Goat Butter
Heather (Calluna Vulgaris) Extract
Goat Milk
Hedge Parsley (Anthriscus Sylvestris)

Extract
Hazelnut (Corylus Avellana) Oil
INCI Labeling Names
Helianthus Tuberosus Extract

Helichrysum (Helichrysum
Gymnocephalum) Oil
Helichrysum (Helichrysum Italicum)
Flower Extract
Helichrysum (Helichrysum Italicum) Oil
Helichrysum (Helichrysum Italicum)
Petals
Hemp Seed Butter (Cannabis Sativa
Seed Oil [and] Hydrogenated Vegetable
Oil)
253
Horehound (Marrubium Vulgare)

Extract
Horse Chestnut (Aesculus
Hippocastanum) Bark Extract
Horse Chestnut (Aesculus
Hippocastanum) Extract
Horseradish (Cochlearia Armoracia)
Extract
Horsetail (Equisetum Arvense) Extract
Horsetail (Equisetum Arvense) Leaf
Extract
Hemp Seed (Cannabis Sativa) Oil
Horsetail (Equisetum Hiemale) Extract
Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) Extract
Houseleek (Sempervivum Tectorum)
Extract
Herb Robert (Geranium Robertianum)

Extract
Hibiscus (Militaris) Extract
Hibiscus (Rosa Sinensis Linn)
Hibiscus (Sabdariffa) Extract
Hibiscus (Syriacus) Extract
Holly (Ilex Aquifolium) Extract
Honey
Honey Powder (Fructose, Maltodextrin)
Honeysuckle (Lonicera Caprifolium)
Extract
Honeysuckle (Lonicera Japonica) Extract
Honeysuckle (Lonicera Japonica) Leaf
Extract
Hops (Humulus Lupulus)
Hops (Humulus Lupulus) Extract
Hops (Humulus Lupulus) Oil
Hunter Green (Iron Oxide [and]
Glycerin)
Hyacinth (Hyacinthus Orientalis) Extract
Hybrid Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius)
Oil
Hybrid Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus)
Oil
Hydrated Chromium Oxide Green
(Iron Oxide [and] Glycerin)this is a
teal color
Hydrocotyl (Centella Asiatica) Extract
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (Hydrolyzed
Oat [Avena Sativa] [and] Glycerin [and]
Phenoxyethanol [and] Water)
Hydrolyzed Silk
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
(Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane)
Hydrosol, Bulgarian (Rosa Damascene
Distillate)
254
Appendix B
Hydrosol, Chamomile (Chamaemelum
Nobiel Distillate)
Isopropyl Myristiate
Ivy (Hedera Helix) Extract
Hydrosol, Cistus Labdanum (Cistus
Ladaniferus [Rock Rose] Distillate)
Hydrosol, Lemon Balm (Melissa
Officinalis [Lemon Balm] Distillate)
Jaborandi (Pilocarpus Pennatifolius)

Extract
Jalap (Ipomoea Purga) Resin
Hydrosol, Neroli (Citrus Aurantium
[Neroli] Distillate)
Jambul (Eugenia Cumini) Extract
Hydrosol, Rose Damascena (Rose
Damascena [Rose] Distillate)
Japanese Angelica (Angelica Acutiloba)
Extract
Hydrosol, Rosemary Verbenone
(Rosmarinus Officinalis [Rosemary]
Distillate)
Japanese Quince (Chaenomeles Japonica)
Extract
Hydrosol, Witch Hazel (Hamamelis
Virginiana [Witch Hazel] Distillate)
Jasmine Absolute ( Jasminum Officinale)
Extract
Hydrosol, Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium
[Yarrow] Distillate)
Jojoba (Hydrogenated Simmondsia
Chinensis) Beads
Hydroxy Benzoxathiolone
Jojoba (Simmondsia Chinensis) Oil
Hyptis Suaveolens Oil
Juniper Berries ( Juniperus Communis)
Berries
Hyssop (Hyssopus Officinalis) Extract
Hyssop (Hyssopus Officinalis) Oil
Jasmine ( Jasminum Officinale) Oil
Juniper Berry Oil ( Juniperus Communis
[Juniper]) Fruit Oil
Iceland Moss (Cetraria Islandica) Extract
Illipe (Shorea Stenoplera) Seed Butter
Indian Cress (Tropaeolum Majus) Extract
Indian Hemp (Apocynum Cannabinum)
Extract
Indigo Bush (Dalea Spinosa) Oil
Kaolin Clay (all) (Kaolinite)
Karanja Oil (Pongamma Glabra
[Karanja] Oil)
Kelp, Atlantic (Laminaria Digitata)
Powder
Indigofera Tinctoria Extract
Kelp, Norwegian (Ascophyllum Nososom)
Powder
IPM (Isopropyl Myristate)
Kiwi (Actinidia Chinensis) Fruit
INCI Labeling Names
255
Kiwi (Actinidia Chinensis) Seed Oil
Lemon (Citrus Medica Limonum) Oil
Kiwi (Actinidia Chinensis) Water
Lemon (Citrus Medica Limonum) Peel

Extract
Kokum (Garcinia Indica) Seed Butter

Kukui (Aleurites Moluccana) Nut Oil
Lemon Verbena (Lippia Citriodora)

Extract
Labdanum (Cistus Labdaniferus)
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Schoenanthus)

Oil
Labdanum (Cistus Labdaniferus) Oil
Lentil (Lens Esculenta) Extract
Labrador Tea (Ledum Groenlandicum)

Extract
Lesquerella Fendleri Oil
Labrador Tea (Ledum Palustre) Extract
Lactic Acid
Ladys Mantle (Alchemilla Vulgaris)
Extract
Ladys Slipper (Cypripedium Pubescens)
Extract
Ladys Thistle (Silybum Marianum)
Extract
Ladys Thistle (Silybum Marianum)
Fruit Extract
Lanolin
Lard
Laurel (Laurus Nobilis) Extract
Laurel (Laurus Nobilis) Oil
Lavandin (Lavandula Hybrida) Oil
Lavandin Grosso (Lavandula Hybrida
Grosso [Lavender] Oil)
Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) Oil
Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) Water
Lavender Fields (Iron Oxide [and]
Titanium Dioxide [and] Glycerin)
Lettuce (Lactuca Scariola Sativa) Extract

Lettuce (Lactuca Scariola Sativa) Juice
Lichen (Usnea Barbata) Extract
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra)
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) Extract
Lilac (Syringa Vulgaris) Extract
Lime (Citrus Aurantifolia) Oil
Lime (Citrus Aurantifolia) Peel Extract
Linden (Tilia Cordata) Extract
Linden (Tilia Cordata) Oil
Linden (Tilia Cordata) Water
Linden (Tilia Cordata) Wood Extract
Linden (Tilia Platyphyllos)
Linden (Tilia Platyphyllos) Extract
Linden (Tilia Tomentosa) Extract
Linden (Tilia Vulgaris) Extract
Linoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Lactate
Linseed (Linum Usitatissimum) Oil
256
Appendix B
LiquaPar Optima (Phenoxyethanol,

Methylparaben, Isobutylparaben,
Butylparaben)
Liquid Germall (Propylene Glycol,
Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodoprophynl
Butycarbamate) Plus
Liquid Shea (Butyrospermum Parkii) Oil
Lithospermum Erythrorhizone Extract
Lithospermum Officinale Extract
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Locust Bean (Ceratonia Siliqua) Gum
Logwood (Haematoxylon Campechianum)
Extract
Logwood (Haematoxylin Campechianum)
Powder
Macadamia (Macadamia Ternifolia) Seed

Oil
Magnesium Carbonate
Maiden Hair Fern (Adiantum Capillus
Veneris) Extract
Mallow (Malva Sylvestris) Extract
Mallow (Malva Sylvestris) Leaf Powder
Mallow, Musk (Malva Moschata) Extract
Mandarin Orange (Citrus Nobilis) Peel
Oil
Mango (Mangifera Indica) Seed Butter
Mango (Mangifera Indica) Seed Oil
Manihot Utilissima Extract
Manuka (Leptospermum Scoparium) Oil
Loquat (Eriobotrya Japonica) Extract
Maritime Pine (Pinus Pinaster) Extract
Loquat (Eriobotrya Japonica) Leaf

Extract
Marshmallow (Althea Officinalis) Root

Powder
Lotus Corniculatus Extract
Massoy (Cryptocarya Massoy) Bark Oil
Lovage (Levisticum Officinale) Extract
Matricaria (Chamomilla Recutita) Extract
Lovage (Levisticum Officinale) Oil
Matricaria (Chamomilla Recutita) Oil
Luffa Cylindrica Extract
May Chang (Litsea Cubeba) Oil
Lungwort (Pulmonaria Officinalis)

Extract
MEA-PPG-6-Laureth-6-Carboxylate
Lupin (Lupinus Albus) Extract
Meadowfoam (Limnanthes Alba) Seed

Oil
Lupin (Lupinus Albus) Oil
Meadowsweet (Spiraea Ulmaria) Extract
Lupin (Lupinus Albus) Oil

Unsaponifiables
Melaleuca Leucadendron Cajaputi

(Cajeput)
Lupin (Lupinus Luteus) Extract
Melissa; Lemon Balm (Melissa

Officinalis) Oil
INCI Labeling Names
257
Menthol Crystals
Nettle (Urtica Dioica) Extract
Menthyicellulose
Nettle (Urtica Dioica) Oil
Methylsulfonyimethane (Dimethyl
Sulfone)
Niaouli (Melaleuca Leucadendron

Viridiflora) Oil
Mica
Nori Seaweed (Fucus Vesiculosis)
Milk
Nori Seaweed (Fucus Vesiculosis) Extract
Milk Powder (Whole Dry Milk)
Norway Spruce (Picea Excelsa) Extract
Milk Powder, Skim (Nonfat Dry Milk)
Norway Spruce (Picea Excelsa) Needle

Extract
Mineral (Paraffinum Liquidum) Oil
Mixed Tocopherols (Tocopherol)
Monoi de Tahiti (Cocos Nucifera
[Coconut] Oil [and] Gardenia Tahitensis
[Tiare] Flower Extract) Oil
MSM (Dimethyl Sulfone)
Mugwort (Artemisia Vulgaris) Oil
Mullein (Verbascum Thapsus) Extract
Mushroom (Corthellus Shiitake) Extract
Musk Rose (Rosa Moschata) Oil
Musk Rose (Rosa Moschata) Seed Oil
Myrrh (Commiphora Myrrha) Extract
Norway Spruce (Picea Excelsa) Oil

Nutmeg (Myristica Fragrans) Extract
Nutmeg (Myristica Fragrans) Oil
Oakmoss (Evernia Prunastri) Extract

Oat (Avena Sativa) Bran
Oat (Avena Sativa) Extract
Oat (Avena Sativa) Flour
Oat (Avena Sativa) Meal
Oat (Avena Sativa) Starch
Myrrh (Commiphora Myrrha) Oil
Oatstraw Powder (Avena Sativa) Leaf

Powder
Myrrh (Commiphora Myrrha) Powder
Olibanum (Boswellia Carterii) Extract
Myrtle (Myrtus Communis) Oil
Olive (Olea Europaea) Oil

Onion (Allium Cepa) Extract
Neem (Azadirachta Indica) Extract
Neem (Azadirachta Indica) Leaf Extract
Neem (Azadirachta Indica) Seed Oil
Neroli; Bitter Orange (Citrus Aurantium
Amara) Oil
Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis)

Extract
Flower Extract
Flower Oil
258
Appendix B

Flower Water
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil (Geranium

Oil)
Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis) Oil
Pellitory (Parietaria Officinalis) Extract
Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis) Peel

Extract
Pengawar Djambi (Cibotium Barometz)

Oil
Orange Oxide (Iron Oxide [and]
Glycerin)
Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium) Extract
Oregano (Oreganum Vulgare) Leaf Oil
Orris (Iris Florentina) Root Powder
Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium) Oil

Pentadesma Butyracea Butter
Pentaerythrityl Tetraoctanoate
Peony (Paeonia Albiflora) Extract
Palm (Elaeis Guineensis) Kernel Oil
Palm (Elaeis Guineensis) Oil
Palma Christi (Ricinus Communis)
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon Martini) Oil
Pansy (Viola Tricolor) Extract
Papaya (Carica Papaya)
Papaya (Carica Papaya) Extract
Papaya (Carica Papaya) Leaf Extract
Parsley (Carum Petroselinum) Extract
Parsley (Carum Petroselinum) Seed Oil
Passionflower (Passiflora Incarnata) Oil
Patchouli (Pogostemon Cablin) Extract
Patchouli (Pogostemon Cablin) Oil
Pawpaw (Asimina Triloba) Extract
Peach (Prunus Persica) Kernel Oil
Peony (Paeonia Albiflora) Root Extract

Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Extract
Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Oil
Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Water
Perfumers (SD Alcohol 40B) Alcohol
Perilla Ocymoides Extract
Periwinkle (Vinca Minor) Extract
Persimmon (Diospyros Kaki) Extract
Persimmon (Diospyros Kaki) Leaf
Extract
Persimmon (Diospyros Kaki) Leaf
Powder
Peru Balsam (Myroxylon Balsamum)
Resin
Petitgrain (Citrus Aurantium) Oil
Peanut (Arachis Hypogaea) Oil
Petroleum (Petrolatum) Jelly Phenonip

(Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben,
Ethylparaben, Butylparaben,
Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben)
Pecan (Carya Illinoensis) Oil
Pilewort (Ranunculus Ficaria) Extract
Peaches N Cream (Mica [and] Titanium
Pine (Pinus Haeda) Bark Extract
INCI Labeling Names
259
Pine (Pinus Koraiensis) Extract
Pomegranate (Punica Granatum) Extract
Pine (Pinus Palustris) Needle Extract
Poppy (Papaver Somniferum) Seed
Pine (Pinus Palustris) Oil
Potassium Sorbate
Pine (Pinus Palustris) Tar
Potato (Solanum Tuberosum) Starch
Pine (Pinus Palustris) Tar Oil
Pretty N Pink (Mica [and] Titanium

Pine (Pinus Pinea) Kernel Oil

Pine (Pinus Pumilio) Bark Extract
Pine (Pinus Pumilio) Needle Extract
Pine (Pinus Pumilio) Oil
Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) Bud Extract
Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) Cone Extract
Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) Cone Oil
Prickly Ash (Zanthoxylum Americanum)

Extract
Prickly Pear (Opuntia Tuna) Extract
Propylene Glycol
Pumice
Pumpkin (Cucurbita Pepo) Seed Oil
Purple Heath (Erica Cinerea) Extract
Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) Needle Extract

Pineapple (Ananas Sativus) Extract
Pistachio (Pistacia Vera) Nut Oil
Plantain (Plantago Lanceolata) Extract
Plantain (Plantago Major) Extract
Plantain (Plantago Ovata) Extract
Plantain (Plantago Ovata) Seed Extract
Quercus Petraea Extract

Quillaja Saponaria Extract
Quince (Pyrus Cydonia) Extract
Quince (Pyrus Cydonia) Seed
Quinoa (Chenopodium Quinoa) Extract
Quinoa (Chenopodium Quinoa) Oil
Plectranthus Barbatus Extract

Plum (Prunus Domestica) Extract
Plumeria Alba Extract
Plumeria Rubra Extract
Poke Root (Phytolacca Decandra) Extract
Rapeseed (Brassica Campestris) Oil

Raspberry (Rubus Idaeus) Seed Oil
Raspberry (Rubus Suavissimus) Extract
Polawax (Emulsifying Wax NF)
Raspberry Red (Mica [and] Iron Oxide

[and] Titanium Dioxide [and] Glycerin)
Polysorbate 20 NF
Ravensara (Ravensara Aromatica) Oil
Polysorbate 60 NF
Red Clay (Montmorillonite)
Polysorbate 80 NF
260
Appendix B
Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus)

Extract
Rice (Oryza Sativa) Bran Oil
Rice (Oryza Sativa) Starch
Rocket (Eruca Sativa) Extract
ROE (Rosemary Oleoresin Extract)
Roman Chamomile (Anthemis Nobilis)
Flower Oil
Rosa Spinosissima Extract
Rose (Rosa Damascena) Distillate
Rose (Rosa Multiflora) Extract
Rose Absolute (Rosa Centifolia) Flower
Extract
Rose Geranium (Pelargonium
Graveolens) Oil
Saint Johns Wort (INCI of oil used for

infusion [and] Hypericum Perforatum
Flower Extract)
Sal Butter (Shorea Robusta) Seed Butter
Salt (all) (Sodium Chloride)
Sandalwood (Santalum Album) Oil
Sarsaparilla (Smilax Aristolochiaefolia)
Extract
Sarsaparilla (Smilax Utilis) Extract
Sassafras Officinale Oil
Savory (Satureia Hortensis) Extract
Saw Palmetto (Serenoa Serrulata)
Extract
Schizandra Chinensis Extract
Scotch Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) Leaf Oil
Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Leaf

ExtractROE
Scurvy Grass (Cochlearia Officinalis)

Extract
Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Leaf

Powder
Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract
Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Oil

Rosewood (Aniba Rosaedora) Extract
SD Alcohol 40B
Sea Rocket (Cakile Maritima) Extract
Rosewood (Aniba Rosaedora) Oil
Seabuckthorn (Hippophae Rhamnoides)

Oil
Rosin
Seaweed (Fucus Vesiculosis)
Rowdy Red (Iron Oxide [and] Glycerin)
Seaweed (Fucus Vesiculosis) Extract

Senega (Polygala Senega) Extract
Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil

Saffron Crocus (Crocus Sativus) Extract
Sage (Salvia Officinalis) Extract
Sage (Salvia Officinalis) Oil
Sage (Salvia Officinalis) Water
Serpentaria (Aristolochia Clematis)

Extract
Sesame (Sesamum Indicum) Oil
Sesame (Sesamum Indicum) Seed
Shea (Butyrospermum Parkii) Butter
INCI Labeling Names
Shepherds Purse (Capsella Bursa-Pastoris)

Extract
Shield Fern (Dryopteris Filix-Mas)
Extract
Silk, Hydrolyzed
Silk Amino Acids
Silver Fir (Abies Pectinata) Extract
Silver Fir (Abies Pectinata) Oil
Sisal (Agave Rigida)
Sisal (Agave Rigida) Extract
Sisymbrium Irio Oil
Skullcap (Scutellaria Galericulata)
Extract
Slippery Elm (Ulmus Fulva) Bark
Slippery Elm (Ulmus Fulva) Extract
Soapberry (Sapindus Mukurossi) Extract
Soapberry (Sapindus Mukurossi) Peel
Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Lactate
Solanum Lycocarpum Extract
Solomons Seal (Polygonatum
Multiflorum) Extract
Solomons Seal (Polygonatum Officinale)
Extract
Sophora Japonica Extract
Sorbus (Pyrus Sorbus) Extract
Sorrel (Rumex Acetosella) Extract
Southernwood (Artemisia Abrotanum)
Extract
261
Soybean (Glycine Soja) Oil
Spanish Moss (Tillandsia Usneoides)
Extract
Spanish Pellitory (Anacyclus Pyrethrum)
Extract
Spanish Rosemary (Rosmarinus
Officinalis) Leaf Oil
Spearmint (Mentha Viridis) Extract
Spearmint (Mentha Viridis) Leaf Powder
Spearmint (Mentha Viridis) Oil
Spike Lavender (Lavandula Spica) Oil
Spinach (Spinacia Oleracea) Extract
Spruce (Tsuga Canadensis) Leaf Oil
Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum
Umbellatum) Extract
Stearate (Sorbitan Stearate)
Stearic Acid
Stearyl Alcohol
Stevia (Eupatorium Rebaudianum
Bertoni) Leaf Extract
Stoneroot (Collinsonia Canadensis)
Stoneroot (Collinsonia Canadensis)
Extract
Stramonium (Datura Stramonium)
Stramonium (Datura Stramonium)
Extract
Strawberry (Fragaria Chiloensis) Extract
Strawberry (Fragaria Vesca)
Strawberry (Fragaria Vesca) Extract
Strawberry (Fragaria Vesca) Juice
262
Appendix B
Strawberry (Fragaria Vesca) Leaf Extract
T-50 (Tocopheryl)
Strawberry (Fragaria Vesca) Seed
Tagetes (Tagetes Minuta) Flower Oil
Sugar (Sucrose)
Talc
Sugar Cane (Saccharum Officinarum)
Extract
Tallow
Sugar Maple (Acer Saccharinum) Extract
Sulfated Castor Oil (Sulfated Ricinus
Communis) Seed Oilalso known as
Turkey Red
Sumac (Rhus Glabra) Extract
Sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) Seed Oil
Sunflower Yellow (Iron Oxide [and]
Sunny Orange (Iron Oxide [and]
Tamanu (Calophyllum Inophyllum) Oil

Tamarind (Tamarindus Indica) Extract
Tamarind (Tamarindus Indica) Seed
Polysaccharide
Tangerine (Citrus Tangerina) Extract
Tansy (Tanacetum Vulgare) Extract
Tarragon (Artemisia Dracunculus)
Extract
TEA (Triethanolamine)
Tea Tree (Melaleuca Alternifolia) Oil
Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus
Dulcis) Oil
Tecoma Curialis Extract
Sweet Birch (Methyl Salicylate) Oil
Terminalia Catappa Extract
Sweet Cherry (Prunus Avium) Pit Oil
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sweet Clover (Melilotus Officinalis)
Extract
Thaumatococcus Danielli Extract
Sweet Fennel (Foeniculum Vulgare) Oil
Sweet Grass (Hierochloe Odorata) Extract
Sweet Marjoram (Origanum Majorana)
Extract
Sweet Marjoram (Origanum Majorana)
Oil
Sweet Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis)
Oil
Tecoma Lapacho Extract
Thuja Occidentalis Extract

Thuja Occidentalis Oil
Thyme (Thymus Vulgaris) Extract
Thyme (Thymus Vulgaris) Oil
Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis) Flower
Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis) Flower
Extract
Titanium Dioxide
Sweet Violet (Viola Odorata) Extract
Tomato (Solanum Lycopersicum) Juice
Sweet Violet (Viola Odorata) Oil
Tomato (Solanum Lycopersicum) Pure
INCI Labeling Names
Tormentil (Potentilla Erecta) Extract
Tragacanth (Astragalus Gummifer)
Extract
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl) Acetate or
(Tocopherol) Natural
Tragacanth (Astragalus Gummifer) Gum
Walnut ( Juglans Regia) Extract
Trailing Arbutus (Epigaea Repens)
Extract
Walnut ( Juglans Regia) Oil
Tuberose (Polianthes Tuberosa) Extract
Tunisian Rosemary (Rosmarinus
Officinalis) Leaf Oil
Walnut ( Juglans Regia) Shell Powder
Water (Aqua)
Water Chestnut (Eleocharis Dulcis)
Extract
Turkey Red (Sulfated Ricinus Communis)

Seed Oil
Water Lily (Nymphaea Alba) Extract
Turmeric (Curcuma Longa) Extract
Water Lily (Nymphaea Alba) Root
Extract
Turmeric (Curcuma Longa) Powder

Turnera Diffusa Extract
Tussilago Vulgaris Extract
Tween 20 (Polysorbate 20)
263
Water Lily (Nymphaea Odorata) Root
Extract
Watercress (Nasturtium Officinale)
Extract
Wheat (Triticum Vulgare) Germ Oil
Wheat (Triticum Vulgare) Starch
White Camphor (Cinnamomum
Camphora) Bark Oil
Ultramarine Blue Oxide (Iron Oxide)

Ultramarine Pink Oxide (Iron Oxide)
White Ginger (Hedychium Coronarium)
Extract
Urtica Urens Extract
White Lily (Lilium Candidum) Extract
White Mustard (Brassica Alba) Extract
Valerian (Valeriana Officinalis) Root Oil
White Nettle (Lamium Album) Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Extract
White Oak (Quercus Alba) Bark Extract
Vanilla Tahitensis Extract
White Saponaria (Gypsophila Paniculata)
Extract
Vetiver (Vitiveria Zizanoides) Oil

Violets Are Blue (Ext. Violet 2 [and]
Polyester 3 [and] Titanium Dioxide
[and] Glycerin)
Wild Agrimony (Potentilla Anserina)
Extract
Wild Cherry (Prunus Serotina)
264
Appendix B
Wild Cherry (Prunus Serotina) Bark
Extract
Wild Cherry (Prunus Serotina) Extract
Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium) Extract

Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium) Oil
Wild Indigo (Baptisia Tinctoria)
Yerba Santa (Eriodictyon Crassifolium)

Extract
Wild Indigo (Baptisia Tinctoria) Extract
Ylang-Ylang (Cananga Odorata) Oil
Wild Marjoram (Origanum Vulgare)
Extract
Yucca Glauca Extract
Wild Mint (Mentha Arvensis) Extract
Wild Mint (Mentha Arvensis) Oil
Wild Mint (Mentha Arvensis) Powder
Wild Sarsaparilla (Aralia Nudicaulis)
Extract
Wild Thyme (Thymus Serpillum)
Extract
Wild Yam (Dioscorea Villosa) Extract
Willow (Salix Alba) Bark Extract
Willow (Salix Alba) Flower Extract
Willow (Salix Alba) Leaf Extract
Willow (Salix Nigra) Extract
Wintergreen (Gaultheria Procumbens)
Extract
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana)
Distillate
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana)
Extract
Woodruff (Asperula Odorata) Extract
Xanthan Gum
Ximenia Americana Oil
Zanthoxylum Piperitum Extract

Zedoary (Curcuma Zedoaria) Oil
Zinc Oxide
Zingiber Officinalis
Zizyphus Joaseiro Extract
FDA Labeling Rules
Appendix
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has very strong guidelines when it comes
to correctly labeling beauty products. If youre caught without the proper labeling,
you will get slapped with a fine.
There is so much controversy on our Yahoo! soap-makers groups over this issue that
we felt the best way to tackle this subject was to give you the links to the FDA sites so
you can read them yourselves and make your own interpretations.
The following is just a small sample of the FDAs rules and regulations. Read the rul
ings carefully, and be sure your labels are in complete compliance.
If youre not in the United States, be sure you find the regulations that apply in your
country.
FDA Cosmetic Labeling Manuals and Guides

Following the rules for labeling cosmetics isnt as difficult as you might be thinking
right about now. In a nutshell, all the ingredients have to be listed by their INCI names
and in order from the most to the least in amount. Most lotions and creams have 50 to
75 percent distilled water, so distilled water would be the very first ingredient listed on
the label. Anything under 1 percent does not have to be listed on the label.
The following links give you more information:
Summary of Regulatory Requirements for Labeling of Cosmetics Marketed in
the United States
www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/CosmeticLabelingLabelClaims/CosmeticLabelingManual/
ucm126438.htm
Labeling Regulations Applicable to Cosmetics
ucm126440.htm
266
Appendix C
Cosmetic Labeling Guide

ucm126444.htm
Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?)
www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/ucm074201.htm
How does the law define a cosmetic?
www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/ucm074201.htm
Cosmetics Q&A: Personal Care Products
www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ResourcesForYou/Consumers/CosmeticsQA/default.htm
Are All Personal Care Products Regulated as Cosmetics?
www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ResourcesForYou/Consumers/CosmeticsQA/ucm136560.htm
Other Helpful Information

Gale, Marie. Soap and Cosmetic Labeling: How to Follow the Rules and Regs, Explained in
Plain English. Broadbent, OR: Cinnabar Press, 2007.
Resources
Appendix
In this appendix, weve assembled a list of some of our favorite venders to help you
find the supplies and ingredients youll need when making your own natural beauty
products.
Aloe Vera
Warren Laboratories, LLC
1656 IH 35 South
Abbott, TX 76621
254-580-9990
fax: 254-580-9944
www.warrenlabsaloe.com
Colorants
Apples, Woods and Berries
www.awbsupplies.com
Ellens Essentials
Houston, TX 77072
www.ellensessentials.com
Select Shades
www.selectshades.com/chart/clear.html
TKB Trading, LLC
1101 9th Avenue
Oakland, CA 94606
510-451-9011
fax: 510-451-4377
tkbtrading@sbcglobal.net
www.tkbtrading.com
268
Appendix D
Essential Oils
Camden-Grey
3579 NW 82 Avenue
Doral, FL 33122
305-500-9630 or 1-866-503-8615
fax: 305-500-9425
www.camdengrey.com
Stony Mountain Botanicals

www.wildroots.com
Herbs
HerbalCom
3408 Brook Run Drive
Des Moines, IA 50317
1-888-649-3931
fax: 877-818-4115
www.herbalcom.com
Monterey Bay Spice Company

719 Swift Street, Suite 62
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
831-426-2808 or 1-800-500-6148
fax: 831-426-2792
support@herbco.com
www.herbco.com
Oils and Butters

Neem and Karanja Oil and Products
The Ahimsa Alternative, Inc.
Contact: Usha Rao
15 Timberglade Road
Bloomington, MN 55437
952-943-9449 or 1-877-873-6336
fax: 866-211-5460
neemlady@neemresource.com
www.neemresource.com
Oils by Nature, Inc.
30300 Solon Industrial Parkway, Suite E
Solon, OH 44139
440-498-1180
fax: 440-498-0574
info@oilsbynature.com
www.oilsbynature.com
Soapers Choice
A division of Columbus Foods
Company
Contact: Mike Lawson
30 East Oakton Avenue
Des Plaines, IL 60018
773-265-6500 or 1-800-322-6457
www.soaperschoice.com
Resources
269
Fragrance Oils
Fragrance Oil Finder
www.fragranceoilfinder.com
General Supplies
After the Rayne Supplies
www.atrsupplies.com
Apples, Woods and Berries
903-356-6884
www.awbsupplies.com
Bramble Berry, Inc.

2138 Humboldt Street
Bellingham, WA 98225
(not open to the public)

360-734-8278 or 1-877-627-7883
fax: 360-752-0992
www.brambleberry.com
Elements Bath and Body Supplies
4203 Evergreen Road
Crestwood, KY 40014
502-243-2312
www.elementsbathandbody.com
The Herbarie at Stoney Hill Farm,
Inc.
630 Turner Road
Prosperity, SC 29127
803-364-9979 or 1-866-364-9979
fax: 803-364-9974
support@theherbarie.com
www.theherbarie.com
Kangaroo Blue
PO Box 9021
Naperville, IL 60567-9021
630-999-8132
fax: 847-589-1079
www.kangarooblue.com
Lotioncrafter
532 Point Lawrence Road
Olga, WA 98279-8008
sales@lotioncrafter.com
www.lotioncrafter.com
Majestic Mountain Sage
918 West 700 North, Suite 104
Logan, UT 84321
435-766-0863
fax: 435-755-2108
www.thesage.com
Mountain Rose Herbs
PO Box 50220
Eugene, OR 97405
1-800-879-3337 (outside the USA: 541
741-7307)
fax: 510-217-4012
info@mountainroseherbs.com
www.mountainroseherbs.com
New Directions Aromatics Inc.
2129 Watercress Place
San Ramon, CA 94583
1-800-246-7117
fax: 1-800-246-8207
www.newdirectionsaromatics.com
Oregon Trail Soap Supplies and
More
PO Box 669
Rogue River, OR 97537
541-582-3393
www.oregontrailsoaps.com
270
Appendix D
The Original Soap Dish

PO Box 263
South Whitney, IN 46787
260-723-4039
www.thesoapdish.com
Taylored Concepts Inc.
12021 Plano Road, Suite #190
Dallas, TX 75243
972-671-5661 or 1-866-322-9944
www.tayloredconcepts.com
Wholesale Supplies Plus, Inc.

10035 Broadview Road
Broadview Heights, OH 44147
440-526-6556 or 1-800-359-0944
fax: 440-526-6597
www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com
Labels and Packaging Supplies
BayouSome.com
385 Farmer Court, Suite A
Lawrenceville, GA 30046
service@bayousome.com
www.bayousome.com
Elements Bath and Body Supplies
4203 Evergreen Road
Crestwood, KY 40014
502-243-2312
www.elementsbathandbody.com
Online Labels, Inc.

925 Florida Central Parkway
Longwood, FL 32750
407-949-6499 or 1-888-575-2235
fax: 1-866-406-7341
www.onlinelabels.com
The Shrink Wrap Store
www.shrinkwrapstore.com
Wholesale Supplies Plus, Inc.
www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com
Preservatives
Appendix
Do you need to use a preservative? The short answer is yes. Even if youre not
planning on selling your beauty products and intend them only for yourself and
family, know this: bacteria can grow in a lotion or cream without a single indicator
or odor. You wont even know if a product is tainted until its too late. Your eyes, for
example, can become infected with the smallest amount of cream that has bacteria
growing in it.
Always preserve your products, and if youre going to sell them, have them tested.
Choosing Your Preservative

Youll find many preservatives available, and it can boggle your mind trying to decide
which is best for what you want to preserve. I wish I could give you just one preserva
tive that would work in all cases. But unfortunately, thats not possible.
There are several factors to consider when choosing a preservative. One is the pH of
the product you need to preserve. Some of the preservatives work in low pH, while
some work in all ranges of pH. So take note of your products pH levels when youre
deciding which preservative you should use.
You can use preservatives high in parabens and preserve a product until the end of
time. But I dont use parabens or formaldehyde in anything I make. There are too
many links to damaged breast tissues from products that contain parabens. There are
many who say theres not enough proof that theyre dangerous, but still, I avoid them.
Read what these preservatives are made of, and take the time to research what these
chemicals are before you make your decisions.
The following sections are broken down into which emulsion needs which pre
servative. Each preservative includes its INCI name, the amount youll use of the
preservative, with what pH range it works or doesnt work, what temperature your
emulsion should be to mix in the preservative, and if it is a total preservative.
272
Appendix E
BEAUTY BIT
A total preservative is effective against gram-positive and gram-negative
bacteria, yeast, and mold.
Unless otherwise noted, all these preservatives are produced by ISP Corporation.
Anhydrous Preservatives
These are for formulations that dont include water (youll need a preservative specially
designed for this). Formulations such as simple body butters whipped with only the
butters and an oil require this type of preservative.
LiquaPar MEP INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben
(and) Propylparaben. Effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria,
yeast, and mold. Use .5 to 1 percent. pH levels: 3 to 7.5. Dont use in nonionic
surfactants and emulsifiers. Add at the coolest temperature possible. When making a
formulation at cold or room temperature, add early in the process.
LiquaPar Oil INCI: Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben.
Effective against gram-positive bacteria, yeast, and mold, but not against gram
negative bacteria. Use .4 to .8 percent. Can be added before or after emulsification in
formulations that have a pH range of 3 to 7.5.
LiquaPar Optima INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Isopropylparaben
(and) Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben. This total preservative works against grampositive and gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and mold. Use .5 to 1 percent, in a formu
lation that has a pH range of 3 to 7.5. Use the coolest temperature possible when
adding this preservative. For cold or room temperaturemixed formulas, add early in
the process.
PRETTY POINTER
You may need a higher percentage of LiquaPar Optima in recipes with more
nonionics and proteins because these are known to react with parabens.
LiquaPar PE INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben

(and) Butylparaben. This total preservative is effective against gram-positive and
gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and mold, providing broad-spectrum protection. Use
.5 to 1 percent. Works in formulas within a pH range of 3 to 7.5. Use the coolest tem
perature possible when adding this preservative. If you have a more complex formula,
use 1 percent LiquaPar PE and also add .2 percent ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
salt (EDTA).
Preservatives
273
LiquaPar PN INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and)
Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben. Use .5 to 1 percent, in a pH range of 3 to 7.5.
For more complex formulas, use 1 percent LiquaPar PN with .2 percent ethylenedi
aminetetraacetic acid salt (EDTA). Use the coolest possible temperature when adding
this preservative.
Water-Soluble Preservatives
This group of preservatives dissolves in products with water. Think shower gels,
shampoo gel, and laundry soap. Also good in products that do not use an emulsifier.
Germall II INCI: Diazolidinyl Urea (a formaldehyde-releasing preservative). This
white powder provides a wide range of antibacterial protection from gram-positive
and gram-negative organisms. To have across-the-board protection from yeast and
mold, you need to add methylparaben and propylparaben. Use .1 to .3 percent, in a
pH range from 3 to 9.
Germall 115 INCI: Imidazolidinyl Urea (a formaldehyde-releasing preservative).
This is effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, but does not
protect against yeast and mold contamination. Use up to .6 percent of the total weight
in a wide pH range, from 3 to 9.
Germall Plus INCI: Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate. This
broad-spectrum total preservative protects against gram-positive and gram-negative
bacteria, plus yeast and mold, and is in powder form. Germall Plus is 99 percent
diazolidinyl urea (formaldehyde), 1 percent iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. Use .05
to .2 percent in a wide pH of 3 to 9. It can be used in products with proteins and
cationic, anionic, or nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
Emulsion Preservatives
These are preservatives for products in which youve used an emulsifierthink
lotions and creams.
Germaben II INCI: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben
(and) Propylparaben. This preservative contains formaldehyde (diazolidinyl urea) with
parabens. It is effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and
mold, and can be used in shampoos, hair conditioners, and emulsion products. Use .5
to 1 percent; pH 3 to 7.5.
274
Appendix E
Germaben II-E INCI: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben
(and) Propylparaben. It is a broad-spectrum, total preservative. Use .5 to 1 percent;
pH range 3 to 7.5. Designed for emulsion systems with oil phases greater than 25 per
cent. Mix into your formula at the coolest temperature possible.
Optiphen INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol. Optiphen is a paraben-free
and formaldehyde-free liquid preservative. Use .75 to 1.5 percent; no pH restrictions.
Mix into your formula at the coolest temperature possible.
Optiphen ND INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid.
Optiphen ND is an across-the-board, liquid total preservative that does not contain
formaldehyde or formaldehyde releasers, and is paraben-free. It is effective against
gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and mold. Use .2 to 1.2 percent; the
pH of finished formulations should be 6 or below. Mix into your formula at the coolest temperature possible.
Optiphen Plus INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid. This
is a broad-spectrum, total preservative. Use .75 to 1.5 percent. It performs best in for
mulations below a pH of 6, but depending on the formula, it has also proven effective
when used in formulas with pH levels above 6. Add to formulas at cool temperatures.
Natural Preservatives
Several different companies are working on natural preservatives that can be used in
cosmetics; one company is even using oregano as the base for their preservative. Ciba
Specialty Chemicals is one such company. Go to www.naturalingredient.org/Articles/
Tinosan_Micro_info.pdf to see what theyve been up to.
This company produces Tinosan SDC, which is a new antimicrobial preservative
made from silver and citric acid. Its a broad-spectrum antimicrobial thats effective
against bacteria and microorganisms. Tinosan SDC is water-soluble and easy to use
in the water phase of gels, surfactants, and emulsions made at room temperature.
When making products that have to be heated, such as melting waxes and butters,
add Tinosan at the coolest possible temperature. The use rate is .03 to .1 percent.
What Preservative to Use When?

For your convenience, we have this quick-glance guide to help you:
For wet wipes, use Liquid Germall Plus, Suttocide A, Optiphen ND, or Optiphen
Plus.
For clear gels, use Germall Plus, Liquid Germall Plus, or Suttocide A.
Preservatives
For low-pH products, use Germall Plus, Liquid Germall Plus, Optiphen ND, or
Optiphen Plus.
LiquaGard works synergistically with a number of the preservatives to boost
antifungal properties. Used with the following ISP preservatives, you can achieve
broad-spectrum preservation protection for your final formula:
Germall 115
Germall II
Optiphen
Optiphen ND
Optiphen Plus
Suttocide A
275
Index
blushes and bronzers, 123,
135-136
color grinds, 124
acne, 20, 29, 32, 42
brown-cinnamon tones,
ADHD. See attention deficit/
134
hyperactivity disorder
deep red tones, 129
aloe vera, 39
peach tones, 131
alpha-tocopherol, 11
pink tones, 125
analgesic, 10, 13, 26
plum tones, 133
clary sage, 28
rosy tones, 127
eucalyptus, 29
recipes. See recipes,

neem seed oil, 18
blushes and bronzers

sandalwood, 34
body products, 77-78
sweet basil, 26
bath bombs, 99
anti-inflammatory, 21
bath oils, 96
antibacterial cleaners, 5
bath teas, 95
antifungal, 28-29, 35, 39
butters, 77-78, 83. See also
antioxidant, 15, 23, 38
oils and butters
antiseptic, 30, 34-36, 39
fragrance blends, 97
antiviral, 30, 39
jelly soap, 102
ApplesNBerries, 97
lotions, 84
aromatherapy, 14
milk baths, 94
astringent, 7, 34, 38, 41-42
powders, 88
attention deficit/hyperactivity
recipes. See recipes, body
disorder (ADHD), 96
products
scrubs, 89
shower scrub cubes, 91
bronzers. See blushes and

bath products. See body
bronzers
products
butters. See oils and butters

beeswax, 69
benefits, 3-7
C
candelilla, 69
carcinogens, 4
carnauba, 69
carotenoids, 12, 21
cassia, 27-28
chamomile, 40
clays and masks, 47-49, 205
clay benefits, 48
bentonite clay, 49
China clay, 50
French green clay, 50
fullers earth, 50
green illite clay, 50
Moroccan red clay, 51
pink, red, black, and
yellow kaolin clay, 50
rose clay, 51
white kaolin clay, 50
facial masks, 52
facial peels, 56
recipes. See recipes, clays
and masks
skin types, 51
Coenzyme Q-10, 63
color grinds, 108
blushes, 124
brown-cinnamon tones,
134
deep red tones, 129
peach tones, 131
278
pink tones, 125
plum tones, 133
rosy tones, 127
eye shadow, 143
lipstick, 178
browns and cinnamons,
178
nudes, 180
oranges, 181
peaches, 182
pinks, 183
plums, 184
reds, 185
mineral makeup, 107,
114-115
commercial sanitizers, 6
cuticles, 215-217
DE
dandruff, 26, 34-36, 42
dermatitis, 17, 31, 36
dry skin, 12, 22, 31
eczema, 10-12, 27, 39
equipment needed
after-shave lotion, 198
blushes and bronzers, 123,
136
body products
bath bombs, 99
bath oils, 96
bath teas, 95
butters, 78
jelly soap, 102
milk baths, 94
powders, 88
scrubs, 89
shower scrub cubes, 91
eye makeup, 142, 158, 162
facial products, 59
lips
balm, 168
gloss, 171
lipstick, 174, 178, 186
mens products, 192
after-bath powders, 200
after-shave splash, 196
exfoliants, 204
foot care, 207
massage oil, 212
moisturizers, 202
skin-tightening masks,
205
mineral makeup, 108
color correctors, 119
color grinds, 115
concealer, 121
foundations, 111
essential oils
Abies Alba, 29
Abies Canadensis, 29
Achillea Millefolium, 36
Agathophyllum Aromatica,
34
Aniba Rosaedora, 34
anise, 26
Anthemis Nobilis, 28
balsam of Peru, 26
bay laurel, 26
bay rum, 26
benzoin, 27
bergamot, 27
biblical, 28
black pepper, 33
blends, 232-233
Boswellia Carteri, 30
cajeput, 27
camphor, 27
Canangium Odoratum, 36
Canarium Luzonicum, 29
carrot seed, 27
cassia, 27
cedarwood, Atlas, 27
Cedrus Atlantica, 27
chamomile, 28
Chinese cinnamon, 27
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum,
28
cinnamon bark, 28
Cistus Ladaniferus, 30
Citrus Aurantifolia, 31
Citrus Aurantium, 32-33
Citrus Bergamia, 27
Citrus Clementine, 33
Citrus Hystrix, 28
Citrus Limonum, 31
citrus oil, 30
Citrus Paradisi, 30
Citrus Reticulata, 32, 35
Citrus Sinensis, 33
clary sage, 28
clove bud, 28
combava petitgrain, 28
Commiphora Myrrha, 32
Coriandrum Sativum, 28
Cupressus Sempervirens, 29
Cymbopogon Citratus, 31
Cymbopogon Flexuosus, 31
Cymbopogon Martini, 33
cypress, 29
Daucus Carota, 27
East Indian lemongrass, 31
elemi, 29
Eucalyptus Citriodora, 29
Eucalyptus Globulus, 29
Eucalyptus Radiata, 29
Eucalyptus Smithii, 29
Eugenia Caryophyllus, 28
Ferula Galbaniflua, 30
fir needle, 29
frankincense, 30
Index
galbanum, 30
geranium, 30
ginger, 30
grapefruit, 30
Helichrysum Italicum, 30
jasmine, 30
Jasminum Grandiflorum,
30
Juniperus Communis, 30
labdanum, 30
Laurus Nobilis, 26
Lavandula Hybrid var.
Grosso French, 31
Lavandula Hybrid var.
Super French, 31
Lavandula Officinalis, 30
lavender, 30-31
Lavender Angustifolia, 31
lavendin, grosso, 31
lemon, 31
lemongrass, 31
Leptospermum Petersonii, 35
Leptospermum Scoparium,
32
lime, 31
linalol thyme, 36
Liquidambar Styraciflua, 35
Litsea Cubeba, 31
manuka, 32
marjoram, 32
Matricaria Recutita, 28
Melaleuca Alternifolia, 35
Melaleuca Ericifolia, 34
Melaleuca Leucadendron, 27
Melaleuca Quinquenervia,
33
Melissa Officinalis, 32
Mentha Piperita, 33
Mentha Spicata, 34
Myroxylon Pereirae, 26
myrrh, 32
myrtle, 32
Myrtus Communis, 32
mysore sandalwood, 34
Nardostachys Jatamansi, 35
neroli, 32
niaouli, 33
Ocimum Basilicum, 26
orange, bitter, 33
oregano, 33
Origanum Majorana, 32
Origanum Vulgare, 33
otto rose, 34
palmarosa, 33
patchouli, 33
Pelargonium Graveolens, 30
peppermint, 33
petitgrain, 33
Picea Mariana, 35
Pimenta Racemosa, 26
Pimpinella Anisum, 26
Pinus Sylvestris, 33
Piper Nigrum, 33
Pogostemon Patchouli, 33
ravensara, 34
red mandarin, 32
Roman chamomile, 28
Rosa Damascena, 34
rosalina, 34
rose geranium, 30
rose of Sharon, 30
rosemary, 34
rosewood, 34
Rosmarinus Officinalis, 34
sage, 34
Salvia Lavandulifolia, 34
Salvia Officinalis, 34
Salvia Sclaria, 28
sandalwood, mysore, 34
Santalum Album, 34
Spanish marjoram, 32
spearmint, 34
279
spikenard, 35
spruce, 35
Styrax Benzoin, 27
styrax resin, 35
super lavender, 31
sweet basil, 26
sweet marjoram, 32
tagetes, 35
Tagetes Glandulifera, 35
Tanacetum Anuum, 35
tangerine, 35
tansy, blue, 35
tea tree, 35
thyme, 35-36
Thymus Mastichina, 32
Thymus Satureoides, 36
Thymus Vulgaris, 35
Thymus Vulgaris Linalol, 36
Tsuga Canadensis, 35
vetiver, El Salvador, 36
Vetiveria Zizanoides, 36
Viola Odorata, 36
violet leaf, 36
yarrow, 36
ylang ylang, 36
Zingiber Officinale, 30
eye makeup, 141
eye shadow, 141-143
blues, 147
browns, 149
grays/silvers, 152
greens, 150
marula oil, 17
peaches, 153
purples, 154
teals, 156
eyelash conditioner, 166

eyeliner, 158
mascara, 162
recipes. See recipes, eye
makeup
remover, 16
280
F
facial products, 52-75
balms, 69
cleansers, 65
creams, 60
exfoliants, 67
recipes. See recipes, facial
products
fatty acids, 12-24
essential fatty acids, 10, 12
linoleic acid, 10, 15-18, 21
oleic acid, 10, 15-18, 20-21
omega-3 fatty acids, 14-16,
19-23
omega-4 fatty acids, 22
omega-6 fatty acids, 14-15,
19, 23
omega-9 fatty acids, 15, 23
palmitic acid, 10, 15-18,
20-21
stearic acid, 10, 18, 20
flavonoids, 17
G
gamma linolenic acid (GLA),
12
germs, 5, 28
GLA. See gamma linolenic
acid
glycerin, 48
gotu kola, 40
H
hair, 17
colorant, 40
damaged, 12
loss, 34
products, 21, 224-225
hand sanitizer, 221
HEC. See
hydroxyethylcellulose
herbs, 37, 43
aai berry, 38
acerola berry, 38
alfalfa, 38
allspice, 39
Aloe Barbadensis Miller, 39
aloe vera, 39
amla gooseberry, 39
Arnica Montana, 39
arrowroot powder, 39
Avena Sativa, 42
Azadirachta Indica, 41
barley grass, 39
Calendula Officinalis, 40
catalonian jasmine, 41
Centella Asiatica, 40
chamomile, 40
Commiphora Myrrha, 41
cucumber, 40
Cucumis Sativus, 40
Curcuma Longa, 42
Cyperus Rotundus, 41
cypress shrub, 40
Eclipta Alba, 40
emblic myrobalan, 39
Emblica Officinalis Gaertn,

39
Eucalyptus Globulus Labill,

40
Euphorbia Hirta, 42
European walnut, 42
Euterpe Oleracea, 38
fennel seeds, 40
frankincense myrrh, 41
ginger, 40
Glycyrrhiza Glabra, 41
gotu kola, 40
henna, 40
Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis, 40
holy basil, 39
Hordeum Vulgare, 39
Indian gooseberry, 39
jasmine, 41
Juglans Regia, 42
karanja, 41
Lawsonia Alba, 40
Lawsonia Inermis, 40
licorice, 41
Maldighia Glabra, 38
Maranta Arundinacea, 39
margosa tree parts, 41
Matricaria Chamomilla, 40
Medicago Sativa, 38
mehndi, 40
Melaleuca Alternifolia, 42
Mentha Piperita, 41
mint, 41
mukul myrrh, 41
myrrh, 41
nagarmotha, 41
neem tree, 41
nettle, 42
nutgrass, 41
oat, 42
Ocimum Sanctum, 39, 42
patchouli oil, 42
peppermint, 41
Persian walnut, 42
Phyllanthus Emblica, 39
Pimenta Dioica, 39
Pimpinella Anisum, 40
Pogostemon Cablin, 42
Pongamia Glabra, 41
pot marigold, 40
red hibiscus, 40
rose of China, 40
rosemary, 42
Rosmarinus Officinalis, 42
sacred basil, 39
spurge, 42
Index
sweet violet, 42
tea tree oil, 42
trailing eclipta, 40
tulsi, 42
turmeric, 42
Urtica Dioica L., 42
uses, 37-38
Viola Odorata, 42
walnut, 42
Zingiber Officinale, 40
Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis, 40
Hordeum Vulgare, 39
hydrogen peroxide, 6, 109
hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC),
164
hyssop, 28
IJK
insect bites, 28, 40
insecticide, 16, 18
jasmine, 41
jelly soap, 102
jock itch, 32
Joy Wax, 71
karanja, 41
L
lanolin, 4, 16
LipidThix, 68
lips, 17, 173-174, 186
balm, 167-168
gloss, 171
lipstick color grinds, 178
browns and cinnamons,

178
nudes, 180
oranges, 181
peaches, 182
pinks, 183
plums, 184
reds, 185
recipes. See recipes, lips
lotion bars, 222
Lotion Crafter, 62
281
nettle, 42
niacin, 12
nutgrass, 41
oat, 42
oils and butters
aai oil, 10
Actinidia Chinensis, 16
makeup removal, 7
Adansonia Digitata, 11
mascara, 162
Aleurites Moluccana, 16
masks. See clays and masks
almond oil, 10
Maybelline Company, 142
andiroba oil, 10
mehndi, 40
apricot kernel oil, 11
mens products, 191-192, 207
Arachis Hypogaea, 20
after-bath powders, 200
argan oil, 11
after-shave lotion, 198
Argania Spinosa, 11
after-shave splash, 196
Astrocaryum Tucuma, 23
cologne, 26-28, 31
avocado oil, 11
exfoliants, 204
Azadirachta Indica, 18
fragrance, 192
babassu oil, 11
massage oil, 211-212
baobab oil, 11
moisturizers, 202
ben oil, 18
recipes. See recipes, mens
black cumin seed oil, 12
products
black soap, 23
shaving cream, 194
borage oil, 12
skin-tightening masks, 205
Borago Officinalis, 12
mica, 125, 142
Brassica Campestris, 12
mineral makeup, 107-109, 119
buriti oil, 12
color grinds, 107-108,
Butyrospermum Parkii, 22
114-115
Calodendrum Capense, 13
concealer, 121
Calophyllum Inophyllum, 23
foundations, 111
camelina oil, 12
pressed powder, 109
Camelina Sativa, 12
recipes. See recipes,
camellia oil, 12
mineral makeup
Camellia Oleifera, 12
Cannabis Sativa, 15
canola oil, 12
cape chestnut oil, 13
nagarmotha, 41
caprylic/capric triglyceride,
13
nails and cuticles, 215-217
282
Carapa Guianensis, 10
Carica Papaya, 20
carrier oil, 24
Carthamus Tinctorius, 21
Caryocar Braziliensis, 20
castor oil, 13
cherry kernel oil, 13
Citrullus Vulgaris, 24
cocoa butter, 13
coconut oil, fractionated,
13
Coffea Arabica, 14
coffee oil, 14
cranberry seed oil, 14
cucumber seed oil, 14
Cucumis Sativus, 14
Cucurbita Pepo, 21
designer butters, 10
Elaeis Guineensis, 19
emu oil, 14
Euterpe Oleracea pulp oil, 10
evening primrose oil, 15
flaxseed oil, 15
Fragaria Anassa, 22
gamma linolenic acid, 12
Garcinia Indica, 16
grapeseed oil, 15
hardness value, 9
Helianthus Annuus, 23
hemp seed oil, 15
illipe butter, 15
ingredients, 10
jojoba oil, 15
Juglans Regia, 23
kalahari oil, 24
karanja oil, 16
kiwi seed oil, 16
kokum butter, 16
kukui oil, 16
lanolin, 16
Limnanthes Alba, 17
linseed oil, 15
Macadamia Integrifolia, 17
macadamia oil, 17
Madhuca Latifolia, 18
Mangifera Indica, 17
mango oil, 17
manketti oil, 17
manmade butters, 10
maracuja oil, 17
marula oil, 17
Mauritia Flexuosa, 12
meadowfoam seed oil, 14,
17
Moringa Oleifera, 18
moringa seed oil, 18
mowrah butter, 18, 170
names, 9
natural butters, 10
neem seed oil, 18
Nigella Sativa, 12
Oenothera Biennis, 15
Olea Europaea, 19
olive oil, 19
Orbignya Oleifera, 11
Oryza Sativa, 21
ostrich oil, 19
palm oil, 19
Papaver Somniferum, 21
papaya seed oil, 20
Passiflora Incarnata, 17, 20
passion fruit oil, 20
peach kernel oil, 20
peanut oil, 20
pequi oil, 20
Perilla Ocymoides, 20
perilla seed oil, 20
Persea Gratissima, 11
polyunsaturated fatty acid,
12
pomegranate seed oil, 20
Pongamia Glabra, 16
poppy seed oil, 21
Prunus Amygdalus, 10
Prunus Armeniaca, 11
Prunus Avium, 13
Prunus Persica, 20
pumpkin seed oil, 21
Punica Granatum, 20
red palm oil, 19
red raspberry seed oil, 21
rice bran oil, 21
Ricinodendron Rautanenii,
17
Ricinus Communis, 13
Rosa Rubiginosa, 21
rosehip seed oil, 21
Rubus Idaeus, 21
safflower oil, 21
sal butter, 22
Sclerocarya Birrea, 17
sesame seed oil, 22
Sesamum Indicum, 22
shea butter, 22
shelf life, 9
Shorea Robusta, 22
Shorea Stenoptera, 15
Simmondsia Chinensis, 15
strawberry oil, 22
sulfated Ricinus Communis,
23
sunflower oil, 23
tamanu oil, 23
Theobroma Cacao, 13
Triticum Vulgare, 24
tucuma butter, 23
turkey red oil, 23
ucuuba butter, 23
Vaccinium Macrocarpon, 14
Virola Sebifera L., 23
Vitis Vinifera, 15
walnut oil, 23
watermelon oil, 24
wheat germ oil, 24
Optiphen Plus, 77, 143
oxides, 125
Index
PQ
pantothenic acid, 11
petroleum jelly, 222
photo-sensitizer, 27
phytoster, 10
polyphenols, 10
preservative system, 6
psoriasis, 10-12, 27, 39-41
R
recipes
blushes and bronzers
Base Filler for Bronzers,
136
Cinnamon-Apple Blush,
134
Dark Bronzer Color
Grind, 139
Deep Rosy Red Blush,
130
Deeply Red Blush, 130
Even Darker Bronzer
Color Grind, 139
Hot House Rose Blush,
128
Lightly Dusted Peach
Blush, 132
Lucille Blush, 131
Medium Bronzer Color
Grind, 138
Medium-Light Bronzer
Color Grind, 138
My Azure Blush, 134
Peaches and Apricot
Blush, 131
Pink Rose Blush, 127
Plum N Berries Blush,
133
Romance Blush, 132
Soft Rose Blush, 128
Sweet Plum Blush, 133
Sweet Valentine Blush,
125
Sweetheart Pink Blush,
127
Sweetly Innocent Blush,
126
Tibetan Sunset Blush,
135
Trinity Blush, 129
Very Light Bronzer
Color Grind, 137
Wine and Roses Blush,
129
body products
Antifungal Cream, 84
Baby Lotion, 85
Basic Bath Oil, 97
Bath Bomb, 99
Bath-Time Jelly Soap
for Kids, 102
Body Butter for Mature
Skin, 81
Christmas Rose
Fragrance Blend, 98
English Porcelain
Fragrance Blend, 98
Floral Bath Tea, 95
Lavender Bath Oil, 96
Light and Lovely
Lotion, 86
Light and Silky Lotion,
86
Luscious Milk Bath, 94
Moisturizer for Acne-
Prone Skin, 87
Moonlit Tango
Fragrance Blend, 98
Only-the-Best Body
Butter, 82
Painful Feet Cream, 83
Pearl of the East
Fragrance Blend, 98
283
Pregnant Belly Butter,

82
Shower Scrub Cubes, 92
Simple After-Bath
Powder, 88
Simple Body Butter, 81
Simple Sugar Scrub, 91
St. Louis Slide
Fragrance Blend, 98
Super-Rich Lotion for
Mature Skin, 87
Thick and Luscious
Body Butter, 79
Wow! What a Scrub, 90
clays and masks
Delicious Chocolate and
Strawberry Mask, 56
Dry Skin Mask, 54
Facial Peel for Mature
Skin, 58
Facial Peel for Oily
Skin, 58
Normal Skin Mask, 54
Oily Problem Skin
Mask, 55
Oily Skin Mask, 55
Rejuvenating Mask, 56
Simple Facial Peel, 57
Simple Milk and Clay
Mask, 53
essential oil blends, 233
eye makeup
Aladdins Finery Eye
Shadow, 150
Always and Forever
Green Eye Shadow,
151
Berry Brown Eye
Shadow, 149
Blue Gems Eye Shadow,
147
Blue Icicles Eye
Shadow, 148
284
Bright N White Eye
Shadow, 145
Creamy White Eye
Shadow, 144
Deep and Smoky Purple
Eye Shadow, 155
Deep Purple Haze Eye
Shadow, 155
Deep Swiss Chocolate
Eye Shadow, 149
Deep Teal Waters Eye
Shadow, 157
Electric Peaches N
Oranges Eye Shadow,
153
Eyeliner Pencil, 159
Forget-Me-Not Eye
Shadow, 147
Highlighter for Dark
Eyes, 146
Ireland Eye Shadow,
152
Liquid Eyeliner, 161
Mascara, 163
Peaches N Cream Eye
Shadow, 146
Poppin Blue Eye
Shadow, 148
Pressed Powder
Eyeliner, 160
Purple Fog Eye Shadow,
155
Purple People Eater
Eye Shadow, 156
Rich and Deeply Peach
Eye Shadow, 153
Silver Girl Eye Shadow,
152
Smokin Silver Eye
Shadow, 152
Smokin Steel Eye
Shadow, 148
Smoky Brown Eye
Shadow, 149
Soft Brown Reflections
Eye Shadow, 150
Soft Peach Eye Shadow,
154
Softly Green Eye
Shadow, 151
Sparkling Turquoise
Eye Shadow, 157
Surrender to Me Eye
Shadow, 151
Teal Me Eye Shadow,
156
Teal We Meet Again
Eye Shadow, 157
Tibetan Peach Eye
Shadow, 154
facial products
Aai Face Butter, 61
Anti-Aging Eye Cream,
64
Anti-Aging Facial
Cream for Mature
Skin, 63
Anti-Aging Facial
Cream for Younger
Skin, 62
Avena Facial Cleanser

and Exfoliant, 67
Cold Cream, 66
Dry Skin Facial Balm,
70
Extreme Facial Crme,
60
Facial Cleansing Cream
for Problem Skin, 67
Facial Toner for Acne,
74
Facial Toner for
Normal to Dry Skin,
72
Facial Toner for
Normal to Sensitive
Skin, 73
Facial Toner for Oily
Skin, 74
Facial Toner for
Rosacea, 73
Jojoba Exfoliant, 68
Kokum Butter
Moisturizing Facial
Balm, 71
Light Facial Cream, 62
Light Moisturizer, 65
Moisturizing Facial
Cream, 64
Oatmeal Exfoliant, 68
Rose Water Facial
Toner, 74
Snow Ski Facial Balm,
71
Sunflower Facial
Cleansing Cream, 66
fragrance stones, 221
hair products, 224-225
hand sanitizer, 221
lips
Autumn Orange
Lipstick Color Grind,
181
Bee Sweet Lip Balm,
169
Cinnamon Fire Lipstick
Color Grind, 180
Cocoa Buttery Lip
Balm, 170
Colorful Lip Gloss, 172
Deep Chestnut Lipstick
Color Grind, 186
Delicious Intentions
186
Index
Flirtatious Bride
181
In the Plum Lipstick
Color Grind, 184
Incurable Romantic
185
Lava Lip Gloss, 172
Lip Liner Pencil Base,
187
Lip-Loving Lipstick,
174
Mango Lipstick, 177
My d Azure Lipstick
Color Grind, 179
Nude Model Lipstick
Color Grind, 181
Nude Sparks Lipstick
Color Grind, 180
Orange Sorbet Lipstick
Color Grind, 182
Peaches N Brown
Sugar Lipstick Color
Grind, 182
Pink Taffy Lipstick

Color Grind, 183
Plum Berries Lipstick
Color Grind, 185
Red Spiced Cinnamon
185
Sensuous Lipstick Color
Grind, 179
Shea-YaLike Lip Balm,
169
Simple and
Conditioning Lip
Gloss, 171
Sizzling Lipstick Color
Grind, 182
Spun Sugar Lipstick
Color Grind, 184
Strawberry Pearls
183
Sweet Kisses Lipstick
Color Grind, 183
Sweetheart Pink
184
Umber Penny Lipstick

Color Grind, 180
lotion bars, 222
mens products
His Blackberry Tweed
Fragrance Blend, 193
His Cowboy Two-Step
After-Shave Lotion,
198
His Cowboy Two-Step
His Deodorizing After-
Bath Powder, 201
His Dry and
Comfortable After-
Bath Powder, 201
His Embracing After-
Shave Splash, 197
His Essentially After-
Shave Lotion, 199
His Exfoliant and
Cleansing Mask, 206
His Exfoliating Foot
Cream, 207
His Foot Butter, 211
His Handsome and
Distinguished
His Light Facial
Moisturizer, 203
His Light Facial
Moisturizer for Acne-
Prone Skin, 203
285
His Massage Oil, 212
His Mature Skin Facial
Moisturizer, 202
His Normal and Dry
Skin Exfoliant, 205
His Oily Skin Exfoliant,
204
His Old Lime After-
Shave Splash, 196
His Peppermint Foot
Cream, 210
His Seriously Dry and
Cracked Foot Mask,
210
His Shaving Cream,
194
His Skin-Tightening
and Moisturizing
Mask, 206
His Stinky Feet Lotion,
208
His Stinky Feet Powder,
209
His Texas Waltz
His Tropical Spice
mineral makeup
Bronze Color Grind,
119
Concealer, 122
Gold Tone Color
Grind, 117
Green Color Corrector,
120
Honey Russet Color
Grind, 118
Ivory Color Grind, 115
Maximum Coverage
Base Filler, 113
Medium-Coverage Base
Filler, 113
286
Natural Sheer Base

Filler, 112
Olive Color Grind, 118
Rose Tones Color
Grind, 118
Sand Tone Color
Grind, 116
Sun Deep Gold Color
Grind, 117
Violet Color Corrector,
120
Yellow Color Corrector,
121
nails and cuticles, 215-217
skin treatment
All-Purpose Hand
Cream, 229
Antifungal Cream, 227
Arnica Balm, 228
Cracked Heels and
Hands Balm, 226
Rash Spray, 226
Rashes-and-More
Cream, 229
Red Skin Balancing
Spray, 227
Total Body Balm, 230
toothpowder, 214
ROE. See rosemary oleoresin
extract
rosemary oleoresin extract
(ROE), 9
S
sandalwood, 28
sanitizing products, 5-6
skin, 7, 11, 230
elasticity, 12-13
problems, 41
tones, 119
treatment, recipes. See
recipes, skin treatment
type, 51
Skin Flo, 209
SLS. See sodium lauryl sulfate
soap-making, 13, 16
sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), 4
soy wax, 69, 71
spikenard, 28
spurge, 42
sun-damaged skin, 12, 42
super bugs, 25
T
teen girls, 217-219
TKB Trading, 108, 141
tocopherols, 15, 17
toothpastes, commercial, 213
trailing eclipta, 40
tulsi, 42
turmeric, 42
UV
UV protection, 13
Vaseline, 222
vegetable wax, 69
vitamin A, 10-12, 15-16, 20,
39
vitamin B, 10-12, 20, 38-39
vitamin C, 10-12, 16-17,
38-39
vitamin D, 11, 24
vitamin E, 10-12, 15-16,
20-21, 38
vitamin F, 11, 22
vitiligo, 16
WXYZ
walnut, 42
yarrow, 36
ylang ylang, 36
Z-Cote zinc oxide, 71

Making Natural Products - Complete Guide

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Making Natural

by Sally W. Trew with Zonella B. Gould

A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

by Sally W. Trew with Zonella B. Gould

A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

Penguin Canada Inc.)

Penguin Books Ltd., 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

Group Pty. Ltd.)

Copyright 2010 by Sally W. Trew with Zonella B. Gould

Copy Editor: Emily Bell Garner

Senior Managing Editor: Billy Fields

Indexer: Celia McCoy

Acquisitions Editors: Karyn Gerhard, Tom Stevens

Layout: Brian Massey

Senior Development Editor: Christy Wagner

Proofreader: John Etchison

Production Editor: Kayla Dugger

Natural Beauty Product Basics ................................. 1

Why Make Your Own? .................................................3

Protect Your Bodyand the Earth .............................................. 3

Sanitize, Sanitize, Sanitize ......................................................... 4

Good Sanitizing Products to Use.................................................. 5

Caring for Your Skin...................................................................... 7

Beautiful Butters and Oils ..........................................9

A Few Notes on Butters and Oils.................................................. 9

Butters and Oils for Making Beauty Products ........................... 10

All About Essential Oils ............................................25

How Much Essential Oil to Use?................................................ 25

Essential Oils for Making Beauty Products ............................... 26

Helpful Herbs ...............................................................37

Herbs for Making Beauty Products ............................................ 37

Extracts and Infusions ................................................................. 43

Pampering Skin and Body Products .....................45

Clays and Masks..........................................................47

The Importance of Labeling ....................................................... 47

Clays and Their Benefits ............................................................. 48

Bentonite Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups)............. 49

French Green Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups) ...... 50

Green Illite Clay (Illite Group).................................................. 50

Fullers Earth (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups).............. 50

White Kaolin Clay (Kaolinite Group)........................................ 50

Moroccan Red Clay (Montmorillonite and Smectite Groups)...... 51

Moroccan Rhassoul Clay (Montmorillonite and

Rose Clay (Blend) ...................................................................... 51

Which Clay Is Best for Your Skin Type? ................................... 51

The Complete Idiots Guide to Making Natural Beauty Products

Making Facial Masks ................................................................... 52

Simple Milk and Clay Mask .............................................. 53

Dry Skin Mask.................................................................. 54

Normal Skin Mask ............................................................ 54

Oily Skin Mask.................................................................. 55

Oily Problem Skin Mask.................................................... 55

Delicious Chocolate and Strawberry Mask.......................... 56

Rejuvenating Mask ............................................................ 56

Making Facial Peels...................................................................... 56

Simple Facial Peel .............................................................. 57

Facial Peel for Mature Skin ............................................... 58

Facial Peel for Oily Skin .................................................... 58

All Things Facial......................................................... 59

The Basics of Making Facial Products ....................................... 59

Making Facial Creams ................................................................. 60

Extreme Facial Crme ....................................................... 60

Aai Face Butter ................................................................ 61

Light Facial Cream............................................................ 62