THE CUTTER’S PRACTICAL GUIDE to the cutting and making of all kinds of British Military Uniforms Embracing Tunics, Frock Coats, Service Frocks, Mess Jackets, = Overcoats, Capes, Vests, Trousers, Overalls, Pantaloons, Breeches, and Puttees. Being Part XU of the Cutters’ Practical Guide to the Cutting of all kinds of Garments BY WwW. D. VINCENT Editor of the Tailor 6 Cit aumerous W. fe and A of Cutting Y Lonpo: Published by THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED at the “Tailor and Cutter” Office, 42, Gerrard Street, W. 26€- PT MIAMI UNIVERSITY LIDRARYAUTHOR'S PREFACE HE recent changes in the garments worn by the officers of the British Army have affected both style and make, and have consequently created a demand for information on many topics. number of details involved in the cutting and making of the various garments worn by the various regiments has proved a Her tis the book which has cost culean task, and I do not hesitate to state me more worry and thought, and has given me more aching heads and sleepless nights than aay work I have ever ate npted. I have gone to bed with intricacies on my brain, and I have awoke in the mornin with the s the work much pain will prove to them great gain. I have tried to make the ame theme before me; and now, after many months’ labour, in the hands of the trade. I trust that which has cost me work thoroughly exhaustive, and I have been most generously helped by several of my former students, who are now engaged in the very best ga speciality of this class of business, 1 am not at liberty to mention their names, but I can and do most gratefully acknowledge the Mr. J. Hawkesford, of the Royal Army Clothing Depa ferences, and from whom I have received many helpful suggestions. ‘The jon, and, in many they have been sketched from the actual garment. I therefore feel con fid that part of it which devotes its attention to military garments. Eve trades, ma nee of my former paj ment, Pimlico, with whom I have had many con- drawings have been made under my supervi ses, t that the result will be of value to the trade generally, and especially effort has been taken to avoid mistakes, but as changes are often made, we suppose it is almost too much to hope for absolute accuracy in every detail. Still, for this we have tried, and we hope our readers will find the product helpful. W. D. F. VINCENT.PUBLISHERS’ PREFACE N placing in the hands of the Trade yet another addition to thitt eneyelo pedie worl, Tux Curmns’ Practical. Guinn, we realize the vast extent 5 yo ground that is covered by the comprehensive verm, British Tailoring and we realize also the enormous amount of knowledge that is necessary to enable the present-day tailor to fulfil the manifold requirements of his calling. The two latest volumes of the C. P. G. have dealt with what are known as speciality: garments, and it is now our privilege to introduce a of « branch of the trade that some may consider outside the beaten track, hut which is one of considerable and growing importance, and one which offers splendid scope to the cutter who desires to be at once an artist and a thorough master of his profession nother part, which In a work on Military Garments so much depends on absolute accuracy of detail and conformity with the not always easily understandable official regulations, that it is essen tial, not only that a thoroughly reliable system should be used, but that the information ed should be verified and confirmed from all the best available sources, We have no hesitation, in either of these respects, in commending this book as beings, as near as possible, everything that such a boos should be. ‘The system is the pow universally approved Cutters’ Practical Guide system, and the author, Mr, W. D. F. Vincent, has spared no effort to make it fit to take rank with the most successful of his previous productions. The Cutters’ Practieal Guide method hs been adopted in the Army Clothing Depot at Pimlico, it is used by many of the leading Master ‘Tailors in the Service, and by quite a large number of cutters in the high-class military tailoring firms in the West End, In addition to this, Mr. Vincent has had access to. the of ined his information, even in matters of the minutest detail, at the fountain head, ited several of the most expert cutters in the trades where this branch is cordial assistance he has here much pleasure in ial regulations, has obta nd has consi made a speciality—whose acknowledging, In the arrangement of the book, every trustworthy and convenient in use. ‘The lett the diageams, and the illustrations are in all descriptions as to be perfectly easy of reference, and, in a measure, selEexpla are has been taken to make it both press has been carefully compared with sses so placed in context with the atory In with confidence, that no such valuable work on the subject has ever before been published, we are reminded of some lines of Tennyson which seem particularly Appropriate to the tailoring’ literature of our time, especially when we think of the difficulties whieh the former generations of cutters experienced in the pursuit of trade knowledge, We quote from memory, but the lines are something like this — "Read amy Title fable He ho nine wap read AIL can grow the Mower ‘ow all can et the sell" Here we have eed of a very special character, gathered by one whose i perience makes the selection sure. It places in the hand of the student a means of self-cultivation, which, rightly used, cannot fail to bring the flower of suce, due season, and will be equally valuable to the more mature professor of the art and science of cutting no matter whether this particular branch of his craft. miay he an oceasional or a regular pact of his work. THE JOHN WILLIAMSON ComPANy, LIMITED,Ain Bw Hane thea ling to a Ne & NE ciSeeaing FES i i artis 7 se a Acie ae cpu iar Lah z ‘Eaieiech neat Pa or ners aia Eas ear Ts Seti beast Tilectbe ost Pied int Giri sual ter Royal Rios os Eta eatigt Sa eth ‘Fett ea » een ta ean 1 DABEEAG AT hice ote on Su fe Cgeon sn Stat ewan ara ai ruillensi Misurs “Dmvtian Service sa INDEX Jitusunrmgtinestaacnner "Ene cue acl 2 iekicss cl 3 Mteak Ch ae Dragan ef Cloak ara Sleowe for Hows eines naae i TCR eG <= pc teal oe Bente tem f Biegueat fae tate Chen nat Get 2 | Ae ere Sere a ag 2 Miser eta eae Riad 2! 1 aims ae, MRR ae Psa er aat et ows Cie) Bean Mla Toes “cae ater ge Begaird Bik te ci 1 oe. : Sa tea ta gant Rees, Nee cone Mates, he Dadian ef me Rent Regiaaent Mews ‘Hiais o themukiow np ot Bills seat ae : agar ot hit wit ml nee Hla cn vag eg aie fs BS lg Dera SR a Ens ene jee BR tinsce main Rihainltt sn Sacea Ofer SASTIAE nun winais Wenncd ke oe SERS it ton daa ganar erates Se iat Sy Hee ates stoke te hind nk 2 ES wee eae Se ace oo Terie pas aut elie He cts gaat ti ne ee ne Mise Tato see a aati! eg i 2) MERE Mathie i Meche reimed ities en eee ee Eistlae brag monet Ete ea gna Sie Fes Git eC olorel thn Sal « Fine as Drews. Unveil paint: # nse Seite Hew Cane it Hise PSH sag eet ieeastie toscGaude frock 4 Ree 4 Hes ogee ing” eatmai tint cal tie : ane : HEELS SAE wires Cleon ta RST ee itae ne nsec ce ae anemia gg aT a Ti Sein Pale Callin Pain aoe i oan Hezoote mamas owoin= "Tali ran Won a tt Ham Citas :Cutter’s Practical Guide TO THE CUTTING OF MILITARY GARMENTS INTRODU! ON. ‘The radical changes made in Military Uniforms by His Majesty the King has created a den for information on this important subject, hhas not heen experienced for many years, It hhas, therefore, heen deemed opportune oceision for me to write a hook on this phase af tailoring. At the outset it will be wise for me to state quite frankly that [am indebted to. many cutters who have been engaged in. this branch of the trade practically the whole of their business fives, and this work is, therefore, not merely the outcome of my own experience, but the result of many conferences I have had with military Specialists, together with the outcome of many visits to, and much correspondence with, the War Office, The history of the uniforms of the British Army is one that is full of fascination, and is intimately associtted with some of the most es achieved hy the force of arms, ed upon andl Dellfant vietor "The this sed Tine " has long been leo as the symbol of British heroism and phic the beauty of the embroidered. scarfs, etc. has heen immortalised by Byron in his Childe Harold's Pilgrimage, in the course of which he describes the meeting: of the rival armies in the Peninsular War, the Battle of Waterloo, etc We must, however, leave it to other pens to deal with the history’ of military uniforms, for our business is neither to ealeygise or depreciate the clothes of our soldiers, We have rather to treat of them gs they are, to describe and illas- trate their leading: features, to show how they are cut, and to offer a few suggestions on the making up of the same. ARMY CONSTITUTION Before we proceed to do this, however, it may be well to briefly describe the constitution of the British Army First, there is the General Sta, which have the contiol of the entire army and ate responsible for the conduct of the campaign, They seldom come within the limits of the fring line, and so it ig less important that their garments ‘should be trimmed in a style to identily them as the leaders of the army. ‘They sre rather directors than leaders: ther duty is to say 00 this man go and to the other come, and so on. ire ‘the four weeat branches of the alry, of the borse soldiers ; the Infantry, or the foot soldiers ; the Engineers, or the skilled mechanics; and the Artillery, of those who look afer the guns, ete. Now, it haturally follows that the different oceupsitions GL these branches will require consideration. Whilst it is also necessiry to provide. diferent dresses for different occasions, viz., working, full dress, and mess. In addition to these branches there’ are various departments, sueh as the medi cal, the ceteriaary, the ordnanee, and the pay Stilts, to he provided for, but these are more auxiliaries than constituents of the army. proper. ‘The Territorial Forces are organised in much the same way. ‘The Yeomanry are Cavalry, and in like manner we have Rifles and Artillerymen, and So on. Whilst their garments are based on the same ideals as the uniforms of the Reyulae Army, yet many adaptations are necessary, and we shall, therefore, have to treat of them, ‘Then there army, vie: The C one S ONLY. ICERS? DRE It will, of course, be understood that we are here treating of the dress of olficers only, the2 THE CUTE uniform of the rank and file being: provided for them by the Government, and is made for them, either at the Royal Atmy Clothing Factory, Pimlico, or by some of the various contractors, who make a speciality of this kind of dress The British Officer is not of such an erect or square shoulder build as the members of the rank and file, the drill be purs in is less exacting, and the labour he has to perform is less heaty, so. that he does not develop the muscles of his shoulders or produce so much prominence of chest 26 those who are under him. Stil, it is a well that the eutter should hear in mind'that the tendeney of most officers is to he more or less erect, and what naturally follows, flat in the hack and prominent in the chest, and when this is the case it must be provided for in the cut. Then it has also to be borne in mind that all garments worn with a separate helt need to be eut much closer fitting in the waist. than’ the ordinary garment, but of this we shall deal more partie larly when dealing with the garments themsely SEALED PATI ERNS, Information on any garment worn by any kind of British officer may be obeained by” personally visiting the War OMice, and there the sealed garments for nearly every rank sad variety of Service may be inspected. ‘This is arranged by Government to facilitate uniformity in the gar ments of the officers, consequently the attendant in charge will, as a rule, do ell in his power to. give the information necessary, and even allow a rubbing to be taken of any particular section of braiding or embcoidery, and all this without Tn addition to this the War Office publish from time 10 time printed details of the regulations, and considering they are not written by. tailors they are fairly explicit, though, in some cases, the meaning ig very ‘dificult "to comprehend, Particulars of the uniforms wom by ‘Territorial Regiments may generally be obtained from the Commanding Olfcer of the regiment. The names of these are published in the Official Army List, published montily by Messrs, Eyre and Spotliswoore. Patterns of a few of these garments are deposited at the Royal Army Glothing Department, Grosvenor Rozd, Pimlico, S.W., “where they’ may be seen by those interested. Applications to view must be made to the Chiet Inspector at that establishment. DIFFERENT TYPES OF DR . There are at present three distinct types. of ‘dress, the first is the full-dress, which is worn on alll occasions of State ar ceremony, Such as when appearing before His Majesty the King, or on such ceremonies as are usually looked upon as requiring full-dress. ‘The steond is a service dress, and it is this whieh has under, cut, make, one So great a chanye, both in This dress is worn on active servic and abroad, nd is practically the sume for all branches’ of the Service, “The third is the mess dress, which is Worn by the officers at mess or dinn ul dine together in barraces or elsewhere ilress has been very greatly siniplified, and is pow made of practically one pattern with a few varia Hons in detail, Tn addition 10 these three types of dress there is the overcoat, which is of quite « distinct style to what was formerly worn, and js as nearly ax possible the same for all services, a slight adaptation being made for mounted officer The garments, we describe are as follows Tunic. 2 Lancers’ Tunic, 3. Doubler fo RAILA, Dress. Jacket. 3 DB _ &. Mess Vests. 9, Patrol Jnclects, 16, Frocks 11, Universal Service Frock, In) Overeoats, 13, Infantry s 14, Cavalry Overalls 13, Pantaloons” Cloth. 16, Pantaloons’ Bediord Cord. 17, Kickers. RANK. The Officers of the Army differ in rank as foto i Second Lieutenant is lower than Lieutenant, Lieutenant is Jower than Captain, Captain is Tower than Major. Major ie lower than Licute ‘nt-Colonel is Tower th: is lower than Reigadier Brigadlier-General is lower than Mai Major-General is lower than General Lieutenant-General is lower than General. General is lower than Field-Marsial. eld-Marshal is head of the Army. Each of these ranks are distinguished hy badges, as per illustration. These, interpreted into follo Field-Marshal : Crossed batons on a wreath of Jaurel, with a crown above. General: Crossed sword and baton, with star ‘and crown above, Liewtenant-General : Crossed sword and baton, with crown above. Jor-General : Crossed sword and baton, wt star above. Brigadier-Gener: t-Colonel. Colonel General, Lieutenant. words, read as Ma + Crossed sword and baton.Colonel : Crown and two stars below. Licutenact-Colonel: Crown and one star below, Major: Ceown, Captain: Three stars. ieutenant : Two stars. Second Llestanant: One sta The ofeial regulations respecting these badges of rank are as follows -— e IRuges of, ran except when _othervis ordered, wl be Worn, on all shoulder cons and Shoulder straps. They vill be in dlver em. breldery on gold shoulder cords, and yellaced Shoe: strops, and git or ging talon plain cloth solder stfaps, In KiRe: Regiments ley will be in bronze "The crossed sWord.is a iiches full and the baton 2 ich shorter. The Growes when fod on shoulder sords or straps are inch broad ad’ inch in height ; tho stars are 1 heh etwesn opposite points. The bacons forming part of Ue Pcté-arsbal’s badges will be in embroidery and erimsen velvet ‘GperalOlicers” badges are. worn in pis point ef sword to the front and edge of lado Entiatds oF towards the ar Reginvental Offcers having Drove Ranke wear the tadges of ther arty sank Deparunental Glicers having. honorary” can,” te badges. of that tank ant Departmental Oficers not having Honorary ‘wank tie. badges of the combatant frade with which they rane RANK BADGES FOR NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS. (See Plate of Mlustrations.) Although this book only deals with the uniform wom by. Commissioned Officers, yet_we have thought it well to give some illustrations of the rank badges used to distinguish the None Commissioned Officers, thinicing they may prove of service to our readers. The badge ranks for CAVALRY are arranged in the following order :Seryeant- Major, Troop Seryennt-Sajor, Quarter-Master- Sergeant, Sergeant, Corporal, 'Warrier-Sergeant, Cocporal’ Marries, Trumpet-Major, ‘Trumpeter, Rough Rider. “Most of these badge marks are worked in gold lee or thread, with here and there a touch of red, as, for instanes, ia the horseshoe for the farrier. ' The holea are in ced, and as nearly all Cavalry tunics are made from blue loth, this helps to Show up the design. ENGINEERS, i, generally. adge ranks are worked with gold lace or braid, but in the ast of the Boygle=Major, where Of the omaiment, at Tadge ranks for’ the E aged in the following, onder: Sergeant-Major, Toop Sergeait-dlajor, Sergeant, Quicter-Master Serr Geant, Corporal, LanceCorporal, Bugie-Najor, FarrieeSajoe SergeantWtesler, Wheeler, Coxpe of Grdinance Artifeers, Shooting: Prize form a part “bine is inserted. ‘The INFANTRY. y tunies are generally made from red cloth, and tor the most part they have the badges worked in gold lace or thread's there are some few badge marks, however, which are made of white, such as the Corporal’ and Lance-Corporal, Dandsmman, and Pioneer, the rest are worked in gold, A» placed on this Plate, they are arranged In the folowing order: Sergeant-Major, Colour Infant Sergeant, Quarter-llaster-Sergeant, Nuskeiry= Instructor, Sereeant, Corporal, Lance-Corporal, Hand-Sergeant, Bandsman, See\eant-Pioneer, Vioneer, and Drum-Major Th the case of the badge for the Colour keant, where the diy forms the leading part of the design, blue is worked in as well as red, so. fas to prodiee the Union Jack, ARTILLERY. Andry Re ae for it vt t-te with gold Wce'en blue, and are seeuaged fa the Slster Gunter (and class), Noster Cunt [300 dass), Battery Sergeant-Major, Quarter-Masier~ Sean Beegerete Coreen Bomber ROR aes "the Parrcts "Wo havo alusested Bau Et cw Dadyes of genera chatacters Foe Gites we lie iver & srs of youd conduct Raines Vint toreine non-commissioned offest He ja ee on bite clothe that forthe Leia Roum Gage Anil nt Engineers of BS pa blue cole that fer te Pitt Aetttugaury white bead on sad sloth shit the Hari far Ge Ary Heap Corps crore of rade th on a white grand and place on blac Su Howe ackge indicated by wavy lings are made ot gail teal these tle See elt plain are es ate ee as eld ee worse IRs tucepen Belg Corpora and Lance-Corporal Be Bacher ang Gorporth and Bombadier oF te (Alters which ape of gout, "Al the Sinamente are worged ip eoll-except at for PORE TE a a hea te wcrc AIGUILETTES. Whilst, writing of, these it may be well to refer to the Aiguilette, ‘The Staff Aiguilette is worn by those olfivers only who are serving on the Hleadguarter, General and Personal Staff, and only by then when performing Stall duties.” The Folfowing ace the official regulations =—Cord finch gold and red Orris: basket, with plait and enrd loop infront and same at hack, the plaits endl tags. The plaits and cords, iront and back, are joined togetker by a short searlet cloth strap, in which is worked a button hole, ‘The aiguilette is x in plain cord with gilt metal attached to the shoulder of the tunie or frock ott by a button placed under the outer end of the shoulder cord. ‘The long cord is tooped up, ‘on the top oF front cord, the front cord and the short and loog plaits are fastened together, and arsmall gold braid loop is fixed thereon to attach to the top button of the sunte aud frock eoai—on the latter on the side on which the aiguilette is worn, ‘The arm is passed between the front plait and cord, and the hack or long plait and coud. he aiguilette is worn on the right shoulder by all Officers of the Headquarters Staff of the Army and by the Persoml Staff of the Governor General of Canad and Colonial Governors, and on the left shoulder by other Stait Officers entitled to wear it Knothée syle aT ai ette is worn by Field= Marshals and the Personal Staff of the King and Royal Family, the details of whieh are that it Is made of gold wire cord } inch in diameter, with ik embossed tags, and it is wor on the right shoulder In tddition to these badges there are the al deviees worn on the collars of special regimen tiinies, the lpels of Mess Jackets, Thre is such a large variety of these that we content ourselves with a few specimens, representing. he various branches of the army. The same remark applies to the buttons used on inilitary garments, though it is well to add that all Military Buttons, with the exception of vest buttons, are die struck, the vest butions are mounted, In addition to these markes of distinction there it also-a Tittle difference made in lengths of skicts, the official regulation being as follows: DEPTH OF SKIRTS ‘The skirts of tunis for of in height will be For Ficll-Marshal; General Olicers; and Colonels on the Staff, Royal Artillery, "Re Engineers, Foot Guards, Infantry Regine feet 9 inches RecigwentaL BADGES.6 THE CUTTERS Army Service Corps, Royal Army Medical Cor und Departments generally-—io inches. For Sta, Cavalry, and Rifle Regiments—o inches. he proportionate variation [or each inck of Serene in eight fs about | Inch in the skirts The skirts of frock coats reach to the knees. SHES. The following are the regulations for $ anil Sword Balt: All Sashes are now wor round the waist, as per special Army Order for June, 1602. Sashes are of such length that the ends of the tassels shall just reach the bottom of the skit of the tunic. Sword belts, her than pattern known as the Sam Browne” belt as follows Over the tunic (or doublet) by the Staff of the Sovereign aad Koyal Family, and by officers of all arms except by General Officers, Colonels on the Staff, to the Royal Family, Offices of Cai Line, Mounted Officers of Royal Artillery Rie Regiments, Over the blue frock coat and under patrol jackets and frocks, The web belt i and wom by Officers of all branches of the Service who wear the sword belt, tunder the tunic, patrol jacket, of frock. | Slings. fire made with sttids and holes, so that they can be removed from the belt if required. It ig not our intention to touch on the matter of caps aud other accoutrements, as full informa Hon on these canbe obtained from the War Olfice Regulation Book, or {rom those houses who mike a speciality af supplying such goods. ESTIMATE OF PRICES. ‘The following estimate of prices for a Second Lieutenant's garments Ins been obtained from Avaiy and Navy Stores, and. will supply on ers with some tea of the prices charged by {i hrm who do this clase of trade well, and at the Soine ne et ree rather Fie The fact that they probably’ do as lange a military trade as any fie ‘in London “should make this estimate a Yaluable one, and wil serve as a guide for our Teaders to: Work to Tunic, Badges extra Mess Jacket, Badges extra Mess “Vest Mess Overalls Frock Coat, Badges extra. Undress Overalls Great Coat Serviee Jacket, Knickers, Bree Helmet Blue Forage Cap, Badge extra Service Forage Cap, complete Waist Sash sis. a Badges extra PRACTICAL GUIDE Web Hatt and Sword Sling ° Dress Sword Knot sce 6 Sword 6 Sword Ba ° Sword Knot, row 6 Sim Brovsne ” Belt 8 + Sam Browne” Scabbaei 6 two Pairs Brown Gloves 6 One Pair White Gloves 6 Whistle and Lanyard 5 Spat Pasiees er pale 6 Cap Badge Sslive Badges S Unifoens Case ris 0 FIELD SERVICE UNIFORM Kaki Serge Patrol 210 0 Khaki Serge Overalls, with feotsteaps, 4 8 © Khaki Dall Pateod tn 6 Khaki Pall Overalls, with loctstraps 0436 Biles Cont Panaloons, areal Buckskin an 6 Redford Cord Breeches, stepped Buckskin 217 6 Khaki Cavin Cor eeches, Stapp rn 6 Bo British Warm" Great Coat, 3 lined. Serge 300 Puttees, Blue or Khukd, per pale, from 8 3 0 Pigskin Pattee Leguings, --<-per par tt Regulation Kinki Nelmel aod pags = jr © Kinki Pet Slouch Mat (Badge extra) o fo 8 Khaki Serge’ Fatigue’ Ca : Buttons ow 6 Katt Serge Staff Forage Cap with perk 013 6 “Sam Browne Belt, Seabbart and Kot, complete none 210 0 Sie Revolver Lanyard o 3 6 Silk Whistle Lanyard oto Khasi Haversade 046 Najustabile Spine. Protector ote Movable Gorget Patches, Generals, pee. pa ; o7.° Movable Gorgel Paichell “Sialt and Tepe a blhper ue 38 8 Movable Gonget Patches, Civil) Medi cal, per pale o 40 NEW SERVICE UNIFORM. (1960: Patterns) Service Jucket, according to ranks from 2 10. 0 Scrvice” Knicker. Breegtos Hie IS Stoves Ranialooss,, Sirmpped. Bick skin an 6 Service Breedies, strapped Buckskin’ 2 17 6 Service Overalls, with footstraps an. 18 8 Service Cap. and Badge 1 6 Service Great Cost 440 Service Spat Putters, per pelt 33 0 N.B.—All badges and. distinctive “marks. on above couts charged extra,MEASURING. The system described in the Following pages is is especially adapted to the production of military garments, as may be gathered from the faet that ie has been adopted by the authori- ties at Pimlico, for the instruction, of these whe pass through the cutting school, with the view of becoming: master tailors, smd is"also used in some of the best military houses in the West End, Tt is based on the principles of direst measurement, which, in our opinion, is the sifest to use for all Kinds ‘of customers, and especially so for those who are at all disproportioy The measures may be taken with accurtey and speed after, ry little practice, and in order make the prin ciple of these measures plain we have prepared the accompanying Byures = THe MEASURES WH ADVISE ate as follows Chest, waist, hips, depth of seve, length to waist! fall length, width across back, continue to elhow, continue to cuff, neck, front shoulder, over shoulder, across chest, and height of ne The latter may senerally be dispensed with, ‘The only measures we need specially refer to, are the Fie. 2 shoulder, the over rack 1 mark, or put ie level with the adious methods of level with this mark 2) Phice tape over ne Baele tinder the arms itis level and so obtain mark, ‘vill produce gond results. Measu of neck A, Pas. t, to B. Fost Sioctori. Measure from A, Fig. 1, by D to E, which is the level of hottam of scye ja front of arm. anil so get point desired, ig, saddle fashion, bring: it ‘centre of hack, see that Either method from nape Ove Snoriore.—Measare from B, Fig: over shoulder at C to E, Fig. 1 enoss Crssr—Measare from R, Fig, 2, 10 the front of scye on apposite side ‘G. Height of neck measures from A, Fig. 1, by H, Big. 2, to a point anywhere about the region of I, note this quantity, fix the tape and measure fap to collar seam at j The other measures are taleen as usual An average scale of measurements for the pro- portionste figure is as follows at Pimlico — Jere is the seale used Page serra Bog | Owe 2 | 16 s nel as s sf is) | tee = SF) te) tat | i » a | ie tg | is ae ie a a | i ist Se sins 4s sh) Me ie sin. eH at | | at 0h The latter is based on the assumption that the snilitaey. figure is dectedly ereet. This is une doabieily ‘the Gree with the rank and file, but those who are constantly engaged in the military trade foe officers assure me that in the majority bf enses there is only the slightest variation in the attitude or form of the Reitish Officer from the well-built Eaglish gentleman. The followinyy useful hints have been issued by the War Office on the CAR AND PRESERVATION OF UNIFORM, Articles of Uniform liable to be moth-eaten should be wafolded at intervals and well heaten8 un curren! and brushed in the open ale, Russia te pilings, powdered eaenphor, aaphthaline, ¢ Tised paper, or tuxpentine sprinkled oa brown paper; of on the guements, are ood for the pre- Suntion of moth, and one or another of these preventatives. should be placed amongst articles Of uniform whieh are to he packed away for Belore being packed away, gold lace, braid, cord, oF buttons on garments should be covered with’ tissue paper, and then placed in tin-lined airtight cases. Care must be taken to use paper ihat is thoroughly dry. Kor the prevention of moth, the garments should be well aired and brushed belore being packed. GOLD LACE, old trimmings and gold lace that hi come slightly tarnished ean be cleaned with a mixture af ereiny of tartar and dry breael cubbed ip very fine, applied in a dry state, and brushed Tightly with a clean soft brush. Another plan of cleaning tarnished gold tace is 10 apply turkey rhubarb with 2 soft brush, If it js dirty it should he dipped in a solution of tyanide of potassium, but if this is used special care should de taken of it, as itis a strong poison SILVER LACE. leaw silver lace, wet it with plain magnesia apolied with a soft brush, REMOVING STAINS FROM 5 TUNICS OR FROCKS. In many cases sting part affecied bel then well brushed with a clean Brush, this fail to. re may be tried + J ounce of salts of snerel to 4 a pint of boil- ings water. J ounce of cream of tartar to 4 a pint of cold water, Each solution should be kept in a vessel. These quantities or three garments. The germeat which requires cleaning should be frst Well heaten and brushed, and a perfectly clean bard brash should be used in applying the Solutions. ‘The solutions should be applied alternately, commencing with the salts of sorrel, until the garment hes been washed all over, and all the Stains cemoved. Tf the wonther permit, the cleaned garments should be hung up in the sun to dry ; if mot, they Should tie hung up in a dey place, hut not near fires or staves, Another plan of cleaning: scarlet cloth is to dissolve'a pennyworth of salts of lemon in warm PARLE he removed by the rubbed with dey pipsclay’ and Should ove them the following mixture separate flat ill be suflicie fo clean two water with half a lemon slicell in addition. Pat this on with a soft brush and finish by cubbing it with a piece of clean searler cloth. FULL DRESS GARMENTS, Starting with full dress, the principal garment whieh claims our attention 's the Tunic, fogetier with its Variations, the Highland Doublet, the Lancers’ Tunic, and the RHA. Dress Jacket. ‘The body-part lor most of these is the same, as will be seen by the diagram on succeeding: pages, the backs is eit on the crease, the sboulder seam is cut decidedly high, a fair amount of round is given co the side boly, the waist scam is placed exactly at the natural waist, and ample room is, given to the chest in all eases. We willy how. exer, describe the system for cutting this when Se deal with the diagrams ; at the present stage we will deserihe how Tunies are made for the different ranks. TCNIC FOR FIELD MARSHAL, “This ig made of searlet cloth with collar and cuff ef Blue cloth; gold embrotdery is peed on fhe collar and cuff the cule see 3 inches deep, find the oud embroitery is 2} incles eeep cound AS top : eT and 2 inches wie between the point ; is msde Oh earl eloth embroidered tn wold Sword flaps are placed at the skit) 4 joch shorter than the skiet width ar the bottom poiat being 3 inches. number of buttons down the iront is 8; 2 placed behind and three on each Rap ; an edging: Bf white cloth f wide is put down the front, round the callar, cuffs, and laps. ‘The shoulder cords are of gold plaited wire basket cord sf inch in dimoter, with a small gold gimp down the centre. The strap of the shoulder cord is 2b inches wide, ending in a 4-inch wing an Aiguifette of gold wire cord 4 inches in diameter, with gilt embroidered tags, is worn on the right shoulder,TUNIC FOR GENERAL, LIEUTENANT GENERAL, MAJOR-GENERAL AND BRIGADIER-GENERAL, Fis ics made of scarieh lot, with collar Rea eats cf vue Goth ¢ poll enbeotiery ie but 4 the ealar and exis ie calle are. inde 3 itehes, the gold. embroidery being 3}. inches deep round the top, Maps of scarier eoth are futon cich sleeve OL inches deep and 2 inch Sige peveen te polnes tls is emicoidérce Poa a ovoid fap a pute the eck Of eich Tare mob shorter chan the akire on of inch wide at the bottom poles. There are & buttons down the front, 310m fing 2 the waist Behind, © White cot edging: jh wide is. put dovn the front, round the ealsr on the Raps, Sift, ana “Shonlder Crees areekt pinied Ghee maak Gong ene eves with stall gine deavaleet Oe REGAIN OH HE san of the shotider cord i 3} inches, tnd at the end val inch wing vdet hole is placed at the end next to the collar fora siall-git button the underside. of the cord is ipa th Searle con and ts & gi ae gilt ala ani gba IC FOR COLONEL ON THE STAFF AND SUBSTANTIVE COLONE ‘This is made of scarlet cloth with collar and culls of blue cloth ; the collar is laced rotnd the top and bottom with g-inch lace, round the cuff 3 Inches deep with two row of {inch lace round ihe: top, showing inch of blue cloth between the ba i A fap of scarlet cloth is placed on eaeh sleeve 6 inches long, and 24 inches wide at the point ; this is edged with lave 4 inch wide. A. sword flap is put at che back of each skitt, eeaching to within (inch of the bottom, The faps are made J inch wide at the top, 14 inches at the centre point, and 24 at the bottom. \ bar of 4 Ince from the centre of the waist to the bottom of the skirt, § buttons down the [ront, 3 on etch fap, the fop Dutton on the tap belind being at the waist, ‘The front, collar, calls, flaps, and bar of hace, and the skirts are edged with white cloth de inch wide, The Tunie is fined with white Found the waist a hand of white leather, 2 inches wide, fastening with 2 hooks and eyes, twisted round gold shoulder cords of the universal pattern, lined with scarlet and a small button at the top. TUNIC FOR A MILITARY ATTACHE Tunic fae Military Attaché is same as for Colone! on the Staif with the Stait aiguitette and forage eap. TUNIC FOR OFFICERS UNDER RANK OF COLONEL, HE ‘Tunic lor these Ollcers is same as Colonel on the Staff, only they have one bar of lace on the and cuffs, TUNIC FOR AIDE-D KING. CAMP TO TH This is made of searlet cloth. with collar and culls of blue cloth; the skirt is cut 12 inches deep for an Officer 3 feet 9 inches in height, with 1 proportionate vatiation for any difference in height. On each side in front there are 8 straight loops ‘bf Mobic” cord which “are not. prereed throagi the cloth, but earried to the front-vhich is dawn in, a regulation which hes heen mede so that the ganient may be avaiable for we on ese ctina pts nope are cinta eng talow The waist, and s inthes above the waist, on the Sa left side. Ie fastens down the front with hooks and eyes, but buttons aire phigged down the left Side (See page 10). A gold embroidered frog drop loop is paced on each side of the cobar, a Found cull 3 inches seep, and a scarlet flap is pliced on eieh sleeve with three embroidered Teops and buttons, ‘The length of the loop is to, be 1} inches, exclusive of the drop. \ Tet \ sword fap of scarlet cloth is placed on the back’of tach skirt, 10 inches tong’ and. 2 wide, with two loops snd buttons similar to those on thesieere Two, bettons.on, ie waist behind; an cdg of white cloth finch wide, ix pur round’ the olla, culls, flaps, and back skit The skirts are ined with white, and an inside breast porket is put on the Let ile, and pockets Dut inside efth skirt behind, ‘Ihe Iront of this Tune Ty fastens with hooks’ and eyes.10 Atpes-ne Canp to ree Kine: TUNIC FOR EQUERRY TO THE KI This is practically the same as_for the Ai Camp, but there ave four embroidered loops and buttons on the sleeves. CAVALRY TUNICS. The Cavalry Tunic of the st L made of scarlet cloth, with blu culls, and edging with titehed edges, ife Guards is velvet collar Safh for Piet Offer ‘The Tunie for the 2nd Life Guards is made of scarlet cloth, but his blue velvet collar and eulls, with stitched e let cloth collar_and cuffs and wh side of the collar is placed an cloth, with edging - on Cuff for Oftoor below Bistd Ron embxoliered device 51 10.6 tnehes’ long. and inches ‘wile, “The cfs are grunier shape and tale Ruttons are placid in the centre, of the em- broitlery, and three loops of embroidery of the same pattern are placed on the back skirt.To THE CUTTING OF ‘There are 9 buttons down the front, 2 at the waist behind. The front of the skirt is rounded and it is Hned with blue cassimere in the 1st Guards; scare: Italian in the and Life Guards ; scarlet ‘cassinee in the Royal Horse Guards. old cord siguilette, with engraved gilt tagsy ‘Worn on the right shoulder; a plaited gold cord on, the top of the shoulder. 1 strip of embroidery f-inch wide is placed round! the top of the colhiy and culis of the Tunies seonn by the Field Officers TUNICS FOR DRAGOON GUARDS AND. DRAGOONS. ‘These ave made of searlet cloth with collar and cuffs of the colour of the regulation Facing: ‘These are a3 follows: he ist (King's Own), the 3rd (Prince of Wales’), ah (Royal Irish}, 5th (Princess Char~ lotte af Wales’), 7th Dragoon Guards, of velvet In the and Dragdon Guards (Queen’s’ Bays), ist Royal, and Royal, Scotch Greys, and 6th Innis Kallings, of cloth The voller ornamented with 3 inch Jace, with the exception of the snd Dragoon Cuards {Queen's Bays) and 1st Royal Dragoons, which have 1 inch, Round the top of collar and down the front only for Officers of all ranks, ‘The cuffs are made 2 inches deep at the point, 1} at the hack edges, with ronnd back gold cord, forming a single Austrian lenot 7} inches deep FP Re 8 buttons afe placed up the front and 2 at the Waist behind: fa sword Hap of scarlet “oth Is laced at the back of the ket, elged wich round Eide gold cord and traced ins and out with fold Russia braid, ‘The front fe edged weith the Seine material and calours ae facing. of the skirt re lined with white, plated gold shoulder cord Hed wei seared and Saal! button at the top. TUNICS FOR br DRAGOON GUARDS, Tunic is made from blue cloth, the top snd bortam of the rollar has round back gold cord alt round, pointed culls, are of white cloth, the collar is laced with cord like that for othee Dragoon Guards ; cuffs for all ranles are trimmed with a single Austrian knot, and a tracing of plain braid, The Austrian knot fy about 7} inches deep. ey 5 o ° S| There are & buttons placed up the frost, and 2 at the back of the waist; a sword fap of blue Gotu, Shaped with three points, is placed on the baek’of each skirt ; it is trimmed with 5 buttons and edged with round back gold cord, plaited at gold shoulder cord lined with blue and small button st the top. HUSSARS TUNIC, ‘This is made of biue cloth and edged all round with gold chain gimp, on each side oF the breast,six loops of gold chain. gimp. with caps and drops, fastened with gold worked olivets, on each hack dean a dou Fine ofthe same gap Torn ing three efee at the tops pascing unver'a netted on alte minating wil ania Kcnot right to the bottom of the sir, a tracing of gold braid alt routd the gimp, and Austrian knot St gold. chain gimp is placed on cach sleeve, feaching t 8 inches from the bottom of the euffs the Skee fe rounded GF inthe: front and closed beling) Gud lined wilh buck | cokoulder eceta' 6! antes cola ckAn pieip ned) wisn ies sre button at the top. The collar fs of blue except for the tath, which is white, and the srd, which isvred, there is itch gold lace on too and down tnd of front cullar, “Gold chain gimp on the Calise wea he was MILITARY TUNIC SYSTEM Deew line si) eels to sineiy from 'O to depth of seye’as taken on the customer, 0.40 Gidepuh of seye as taken on the customer O'to is 4 depth of seye pus + inch, square ine across from 1 EE G, from O10 E 4 depth of pe} teh, cehete Ines ations liom 41 RG) The alk Gu cenelutelacaigutar the bck i taken cut en the erense, From 1 to A isd of the neck measure plus } inch, fom to D is the width of back plus } inch ‘and irom this paint square up to Bd of the breast plus a From Brack out!to,Gyfeom dlto.2 thehy and by diese polits shape back scye trom © to D, and shoulder seam from C 1 A atid back eck from 0 to A, Draw line from D to G_and hollow the ‘side seam of back at I about 4 inch,” the width of tie back from Ho Q is: made eqial To one-cighteenth of the breast, thus 2 inches for ‘From Q to Ris 2 inches, me waist suppression taken out of a Tunic being rather more than for nn ordinary coat, for the reason that it i Held ey close to the wilet by the ail pf the belt lise point D es a pivet ond sweep from © to V, ind 0 wet the fength of the Side body at back. Make point la pivot and sweep forward. (rot point, Finch above D, as shown to And top of Side body take out # inch at top and draw side Seam of side body, as team DIR to V, (rom SLE a OF bie ines hom pslat tot {EY Ghest hensive plua 2 nches, fram Lip jy across chest measure as taken’ on customer there are some, however, who prefer to find th fone oeaye Wy meserngasces ont to: Kk ANS Weg esterases prckeadto hid dies tes fant Ur iseeeneey eee tae direction of N by the front shoulder sieaaure, less the width of back neck from © to A, aéd 1 inch to this quantity and sweep again, making” point Tea pivot, and where these two Segments inter- Mach olian, louiee he sce pola Mow are the distance rom 4. to © 8, deducting Hussars.1 fromthe -over-shouldes me: taken on about § inch in front of the ine: driv up. from ca ered eneep by the remainder, make -K.To find point O, place the square on L. N ahd aoe ten in the direction of | nuirle out from Noto, © 4 of the neck, marl paint Ka p = a TESS < a Grease aye, Sew on Hutton Stand right sie My this. will give the slope “of the chaulder, down, from:O to P 4 of neck plus $ inch. | The Mhce the WIGESe from MCto Nd inch Tess than size of the neck should be carefully checked by Pea ae een dent the-seye, advancing It the measure taken, but vory tittle variation willbbe found essary in the majority. of eases} square a'line down from J and hollow the side bary 4 ineh at S, and the forepart 1 inch at ‘T, This makes 1} inches of suppression taleen out of the underarm seam. | Now measure up the waist from H t0.Q, R to S and T to U to the J waist ensuite plus 1 inch Square a line across from V to X and hollow the waist seam § inch at W. Add an 3 inch for the bution holes, but ent the button side to the breast line, and sew on the button stand. THE SKIRT, Draw line from X to V straight, measure down from X to *Z one-twellth of the sest plus 1 inch aind draw line V to AA at eight angles to Z, dd on } inch of round at the back, and get the Spring of the ‘ront by measuring down Irom V to ¥ one-twelith of the seat minus 1 inch, draw line from X to BB at right angles to *Y. It will be seen that the left edge is not so advanced as the right edge. The extra width of the button stand necessi- tates the extra width of skirt on the right side, hollew waist seam + inch and complete a diagram. We give the illustration of the back skiet, which IS cut separately. Draw line from H to CG, make H io Q 2 inches. CC to DD ag inches, add on 4 inch for seams above HO, and allow } inch for side pleat beyond Q. DD! THE SLEEV Military sleeves are pitched at the cop of side seam behind and} inch above the level of seye in front, ‘The sieeve must, of eourse, be made to fit the scye, Draw line O to J, O't A is the width of seve, which may be Tound by deduet- ing the width'of back from ] to K. Oto 1 is tH inches always, 14 to C is the size of the top seye between the two pitehes, and found by measuring {rom D to C and M to foreann piteh. Oto Dis 4 the distance from 14 to C. Add on Pinch of round at Land complete sleeve head 4s illustrated. Measure off the length of slecre to elbow and cuff, make the widih of cull leo: F to H J of the breast and hollow it at the fore arm from F to G1 inch. Prom I to K is made about } of the breast. J to T may be made id inehes, o7 sun of the cuff ean be found by squar- ing at HK, The underside sleeve is found by measuring round the bottom of the scye from J to D, and measure across from A to D of sleeve. ‘A to E is about } of 1] D, the underside sleeve may be drawn by these points, continue down from D to HT and complete sleeve as chown, This sleeve opplies to all ordinary «rarments, TUNIC FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. Corpulent figures vary. from the normal, par Hiculaely: inthe difference of proportion af the shoulders to the breast in other words, when a figure begins to. de el waist_ measures, ory cerpulency the size of the shoulders docs sot in ‘The development is as 1 inch at the breast to 3 IPT take a military cunie inch at the shoulders, to the 48 beeast and 48 w. letra, Something by working it out st ave may be able toOTHE CUTTING OF with regard to fixing the waist longh of the front. The military scale measures for such a figure are as follows: Depth of scye toh natural Waist 18, skie length 11d, or total length 253, neross back $j, front shosider 16, over-shoulder 22, neck or collar measure 48%. "IT this si is the starting point for measuring length of bale 'O to 10h is depth of seye, © to (Sh natural waist, Q 0 284 the full length of tunic. Mark in } ineh at 18, and draw line for centre of heck tobe drafted out, hy the breast measure & work ing seale of 43 inches should be taken for the shoulder qua The oiagam is produced as follows =~ Square fines at right angles to A. From A 10 Ole finch. is Val depth of seye and } inch: seross {rom 91, 10h, 18, and 284, Mark off at A one-sisth of the neck and + inch. ‘The width of back is made St plus 4 inch, ‘Square up from width of back one-sixth of breast and 1 ineh, Owws Square linesDraw back seye and shoulder seam, up and out half an inc at neck point “The width of the back part on the waist line is af inches, Draw a line from the top of side- Sean 19 18, and hollow sidcscam of back: part Vineh. The underarm measure, and the round of s harmony with the ack part; 1 inehes suppres- sion between back and sidebody, and 4 inch on tach side of the construction line at the under- From 10} to the front of seve is two-thirds of the working scale 45, equal to 15 inehes from the centre of the back. Extend line across to breast size 24, and ad ab for making up (264). Marke up feom 264 to B one-sixth of the dis proportion A. proportionate military figure is § inches smaller waist than chest, thus 48 -, G3 w, which gives fixe-sixths of an inch from 2h to B ‘Diaw a new breast line from § to B. Apply the front shoulder measure from 3 to Ey after deducting the quantity © to D. T to His the same width as back shoulder seam less $ inch, ‘ Hollow the scye 3 or $ inch in front of tine dean from 4, Measure out from Ef of neck measure, and mark down } and 4 inch extra for a figure of this type Draw the centre line to B. Make up the size of the waist 2g and 1 inch, Add inch for button-hole side all the way down the Front Drop the forepart + inch helow the original vast Hine +8, 24 plus 4 "The waist seam is hollowed THE SKIRT. Draw a straight Tine from the bottom of side- body to the bottom of the forepart. Hollow Tin } inch immediately in front of the underarm In order to obtain the spring at the back of the skirt mark down one-sixth of the breast seale and. t inch, and deaw Tine at right angles to KN. “The spring at the front of the skirt is obtained by marking” down from N to L one-sixth less finch, and square lines at right angles to LM. All divisions on this diagram are reckoned of the hrall-hreast seam is Gxed at 2 of breast jeboly is shaped int inch GENERAL REMARKS, ‘The waist length of all Tanics should be cut to the nett measire, 95 no such thing as ‘fashion waist” exists in garments designed to be worn wih tight-ating belt In any ease, in beter to cut the teageh of waist { iach too short than soo lone ‘A stand of 3 inch is left on down the let fore- pant for the huttoncholes, but the. buttonestand ould always be secmed on tow the right fore~ part so as to ensure a snog At down the front elge. ol this deseripti The sleve for a figure back should be eut so as to have a slg fan HINTS ON MAKING UP TUNICS A very great deol of the success of military garments depends upon the employment 6i Skilled workmen, and there is no branch of tail jing in which ‘speciality shows off to so much advantage as ia the fiaking of miliary gare ments, It will be well for the cuter 10 start wiut the knowlege of the ideal At required. In a Tunic is should be made to fit closely at the waist, easy at the chest, close at the neck, with ample provisioa made lor the movement ol the arms. Ni he found that in order to obtain this, care must be taken: it, will not be an easy matter to produce this ideal, as a close fit over the hips necessitates a little stretching fut of the forepart, just over the hips, otherwise there will be a tendeney for it to crease at that joular part, For the collir to ft snug at the the forepaet will require stretching at the feck point @ trifle, The back being ext on the crease will be improved if a little attention is given to the spring in the centre; the part Which requires more skill than any other is the drawing’ in of the front edge; the forepart is cut with a moderate amount of round, and Unis is drawn in when the button-stand is Sewn on, and it is customary in some of the best trades 10 put this to the straight thread of the canvas, in just the same way as with the lapel seam of ‘4 trock- coat. The canvas is thea adjusted to the form of the forepart, by the insertion of pulfs and the taking aut of Vs. The firish of the linings must also be arranged in keeping with a ful dress garment for an Oificer, which means that in most fases the lining would either be quilted or creased and stitched. ‘The braiding of the sleeve and collar is not suck a difficult matter as was formerly the ease, but, it will be found an advan= tage to have the sleeve seam sewn and presser open before any braiding is attempted. What- ever the pattera of braiding to be followed, care Should be taken t have it as correct as possiile, When putting on braid or cord, special care must be taken not to get it on short. For pressin, gold lace the iron used should be moderately Cool, @ piece of cloth should be put over the lace to be pressed, and a piece of lining put on the top of the cloth, The iron may then be piaced in the position desired, and allowed to stand lor some little while: in this way the lace may be Successfully pressed, When collar-facings, are sed, grent care mast be used to avoid soiling them, caution wl very necessary, seeing that So many of them are of # very light colour, We have not yet referred to the finish at the waist, but it should be borne in mind thatthe Waist is to be made to fit closely. It is customary to pat a walst-belt aad clasp on the inside, the Colour harmonising” with the ining. — Whenfinished, the waist shoitld measure from button to bastonchole, the same size as measuce taken on the customer, or at most } inch or 4 inch more. We now proceed to deal with the different varities of the Tunic LANCERS! TUNIC. Lancers’ Tunies are made of blue cloth, except the 6th Lancers, whose Tunic is made of scarlet; itis cut DB with front, collar and cuffs of the regimental facings, cults are pointed, collar and caffe are ornamented with 1 inch lace round the tap, tle point of the oulf extending to Sf inches from the boitom. ‘Two rows of buttons in the front, seven in each row, and rows about 8 inches apart at the top and 4 incles at the waist, ‘The bottom buttons are flat to go under the girdle, two butions are placed at the back of waist, 2 thvee-pointed sword Aap is placed on the back Of cach skirt: these are edged with squate gold eord, and decorated with three buttons on each fap. A-welt or piping of the regimental facing onthe sleeves and back seams, down the front, and round the skirts. The skirts are lined wi White in the 16th and with blue in the other tegiments, gold wire shoulder cord fined with blue, with, the exception of the r6th Lance which is lined with scarlet ; a small bottor placed at the LANCERS! TUNIC. ram is drafted to the following, : natural waist, ight back, 7! The di measures :-—Depth of seye 16; length of skirt, 9 slkexe, g23 breast, 36) waist, 31 ‘Square the line #N, 5 and'16. Mark down one inch for nape of neck. 1 to Sf ie the depth of sey {to 16 is the length of natural waist, and a quarter inch added for seam Mark in one inch at natural waist and draw tracks lines, hind the Tine for width of back: by, marking: down from 1 half depth of seye and half inch. Natl off width of back p, plus + inch, and find Lasers.18 SHE CUTTER'S PRacrieaL cUIDE shoulder point by squaring up one-sixth of scale and coming out one inch. Mark off back neck indicated on diagram by ALN, or one-sixth of the total size of the neck ‘The'shoulder line is marked a quarter inch above Tine, so as to allow for seam. Join neck point and shoulder point. oft Mark off width of back on the waist fine (13 inches), and form side seam by curving it about two inches irom construction tine. i out from the back seam opposite, scale, in order to find width of side roat of seye, and to 30h last quantity is halt the ‘The neck point and over-choulder quantities are obtained in the ordinary way. THE GORGE Is found by placing one arm of the square este jag on 20h and the Nj this latter point being: Fixed at one-third of the half neck from the ncek point. The distance from the neck point to the hottem of the gorge is also one-third of the halt neck. ee “The amount of suppression between the back and side body is 1 inches, and the same amount is taken out at the underarm seam as shown on the diagram. The amount allowed over the half waist for making up is ove inch: ik is unneces sary te allow more than that on account of @ firdle 21 inches in width being worn round the the waist. THE PLASTRON, Indicated by the white part of the diagram, is arranged so that the top buttons are one inchfrom the nck poiats and shoulder points on each side, while the wilh at the waist is 2 The slit ig (ound by measuring the side body forepact, and plastron, and then drawing “& steagat’ tine, ‘The rom of the back skit is Obtained by ssking down at front one-third of feale and one-inch aad a round of ‘half iach Allowed for working up. ‘The run of the front, Which requis Tose spring, is found by macking: own at baci one-third of scale, less one tel ‘The waist seam is hollowed ond inch, and. the bottom monde to correspond. "The skirt, when hale up, shovke measure nine inches for a man Slt, Sint aad inereaee onesight oF an tach lor Srey inch in the height of the Byrre. "The slash fe poeed on the ceiire of the sidct—Uat Sheng. an equal amount. of sidre at top and Hhtio and the position i one inch feom the back pleat” ‘The size of the slash i 7 faches Tong, nod 28 wide. The Blastron is worn by the sth, oth, rath ch, eth, and ast Lancers. Great ell and Care ig rejuived inorder tc. take the foreparts propetly, so that the Tunic could button to tho Fight or left ss reqied. FoR GARRISON, ROYAL ARTILLE FIELD Y. runic AND Those are made of Une cloth with a cllar of sci ithe clean seven’ sed nu froma is placed teach end of the cola: ‘The sift cut square in Gront and left open b= find, with a blue'elth fap at the buck of cach se Tse Maps are eiged with round gold cord and traced inside with gold Russia brad "Te skits are lined ith block, with seach cloth edging dawn the feo, ant t the opening bends Tere are nine batons piseed datum the front, too at the back of the waist, and thres on tach’ sword flap. Plaited gold sire shoulder Cort, dined with blue, and a small bation of regis Inental pattern at the top. TUNIC FOR ROYAL. ENGINE These are made of searlet cloth, with ei, collars, and edging all round of" garter. be Selvet! The collar is exged round the top and own the front with round back gold cord ; at fsoch end of the colkir a grenade is placed 3} inches in length, embroidered in stver ¢ calls for ail ranks are poitted and orgamented with ar Anstrian knot, round nek gold con oa each sleeve, extending {0 8 inches from the bottom of a weeo the cull, ‘There ave nae buttons placed up the front and two at the waist behind ; the shit is rounded at the front and closed behind with a plat at cach side, Iris lined with waite. The feont skis are edged with garter blue velve. Treble tnisted sound back gold shoulder cord Vinod with seactet, a stall button of regimental pattern at the top! INFANTRY TUNICS, 1. Foor Geapps. These are made of scarlet cloth, with celle and cuffs of blue cloth ; the collars ersbroideredin front and round the top. At eiel-end a bade Of the regiment, embroidered in silver, round eum 31 inches deep embroidered round the top. Aap of blue clotit fs placed pp each sleeve, b inclies Tong at the seam, 62 at the point ay at ‘vide ar the narrowest part, and at the point, 3h Bottom, 3 middle, af at the top. A flap of scailet cloth at the top of each siete, reaching te Within 3 fueh of the lotto of the skit, two bute tons at the waist behinel about inches apart the front, allay and cuffs, ard Raps are edged With white cloth Finch wie. ‘The skirts are lined With white. Blue cloth Shouller straps, sith two rows of pusl-embeoi- Other Ofcert. Liewenant deey extending to the bosey « small button at the fon. Grenadier Guards Iuave a grenade at each cel of the collar, nine Iuttons at equal distances, find four bars of embroidery fon each skirt and sleeve lp ‘The Coldstreams have. star of the Order of the Garter at cach end of the collar, ten buttons jn front, placed two. and two, and four bars of ciobroidérs, two and two on cach skirt and Sleeve fap. ‘Scots Uuarde have a thistle at eaeh end of the collar, nine. buttons is. front, placed three and thtee, ad three burs of embrbidery at equal distence, on each skier and sleeve fap. Fidd Offers apd. Captains have embroidery round ‘bottom of the coll, aid row) the skit nd flap, and a second bar of embroidery round the cul ‘The Tunie of the Irkh Guacds is of the same pattera as the foragoing, with a ebamrocle in silver embroidered at each ead of collar, ten but: fons in front, arranged fromthe top in groups of Liowenant ‘nor Oster. four and four and two, Four bes of embroldery fon skirt and sleeve Taps, grouped towards the Tolyeaxrey oF rue Lise. “These are made of scarlet eloth, with eth collar and euls of the colour of Ue zogimental facings The colar is ornamented with finch luce slong the top, and gold Rusti braid along the bottom 2 Daiges according to epiment: Cus are pointed with ¢ inch lace round the top, and + Krcing of gold Russia braid 4 nck above and Ielow'the fies, the pper raid icing tnishied ‘vith Austrian linot at the top. There are eight Buttons up the Irom ane! two at she waist behind The skins are closed at the back Wik a pleat ai ach side sehich is lined with white pointed Naps Gh the Tack skirts, as ilutented.” The front Coliary sie pests noc Naps ae eage! with swbite’ loth} ich wide, twisted round. gold Shooter tors of universal pate Tied Scariety u small Button of regimental pattern at the top, A tele waist sash 24 wide is ‘worn with this The ends ace tour, and the Tassel are worn over the left hip. Ths sash should be worn between the to boitem buttons inthe Lodges: Regiment 9 Mack lite f inteo: duced iio the shoulder cord, The tase used ia {he Tunieg xs we have siteady sted, ff inch fide. "The pattern. "varies, however as Follows “For the English and Welsh regiments Jee of the cose pert, and for the Tesh cosh ments itis of the shamroce whist the Tellowing Fegiments have a Hack line introduced atthe top Shu burton of the lane Norfolk and Somers Light Infantry, net Yorkshire and Lancashie, and the Conraught Rangers TIL. —Theanuasn aso Scoven Recuiears, ‘The garment corresponding with the Tunic for these segiments is the doubt. It is made of seariet cloth, with collar and culfs of the color oud the top’ and down the front with inchUniversal patter, fined with scart, sen Deion of fegimvental pattern cm the tone The facings ace of Blue eath ty the Royal Highe landers and the Queen's ‘Own Cameron High landers bull inthe Seaforth Highlanders. a Highland Light Intent, snd. yellow loth is thee regents “The “gold. lars ie of the thistle paitern, Gordon Highlanders having: «blac line tio? at top and Boxrom SCOTTISH RIFLE ‘The doublet for the Scotish Riles i miade of Rite Green cloth with collar und eufls of similar tates. Beak’ put along the top and down the fromt of bse face {ich wie, of thistle pattern counter culls, 5. inches. deep inthe Trent ind § inches eeep a the back etch ith tach lace round the top. aad at er side of the ele sen Three loope of black Raskin braid om each conf, with a button at tle top of each loop. Eight battone down the front with two hooks and eves At wash, and two, tuttons-at the walst behind Gf, and of nehes deep, with sidet fas othe fest two, Gb and Of Inches: ckep, ‘The fist sei from the euntze of Bouin baton, three loops of blaek Russia bral with the regu Talon Button at the: baci Of each Toop A pocket is pees on the aide of the le is) and ec front skirt to hooks for upport of the sword belt; blnek ising Shoulder straps of the sane mnterial asthe ga Trent, exch wih | inc lace at the fae stall oginenta button Badge of rank of the same oateial as the baton THE HIGHLAND DOUBLET sySren the Tune ara the br prt constr “The scum fs as follows’ "O Yo at toh Ate 184 more than halt depth of scye'_ com tite to C depth of sege ad t0 astural welt D. ‘Oto E {neck psf, amd eilse above line © ings draw back neck From top of sie scam raise shoulder of buck 1 ine no than} bres, a6 48 to focalive sean op topo abode; gp cbt 1 Hach fo get run of C to gus j bresct on to 19 oF § breast. Consine to 18 und 308, 3f inches more than Walt trent lor mole’ th, ticy fron’ shoulder tess with of hack med Now ad t inch to this quantity, and) smeep ancl sity point Sok as 3 pitat where ane segments crash each other locates the acckpoist the F 10 G§ neck, measuee down to H } neck hus 4 inch to find of gorge ‘Now sweep fron point £2 to find the shoulder Slope by. the over shoulder measure 17. less tudanity from © to 1. Make width of shoulder HioiiLaND Recast.seam of forepart same as the back or a tele less. From tine D mark in $ inch to find centee of bake, make widih at waist 23 suppress 2 be- tween beck and side body, and 1} inches hetween side body and forepart'; make up to Waist measure plus 1 inch Draw cenire breast line from G through 6% and 1 inch below, add on § for making up the edge. Draw line from J to bottom of side hody and hollow 4 inch above anil 4 inch below. To get the sleiets, draught a skiet ia the usual manner, but without aay spring at front, and for Spring ‘bebind come down fom J to’ “1 inch more than } scale; make depth’ according to rank. For’ Officers the skits ate 6% inches deep; in this instance the [ront skier is. 73) cond skirt 7}, and back skirts 6} inches deep. Back skirts for Officers 6 inches. The, front skirt is 19 be 1 inch wider than second skirt, The skirts or tashes vary in length ; ard as most of our readers will gather from the disegrams, they are double, that is there is a Smallet one on the top of the other. The left back skirt, as will be noticed, is smaller than the other, which is done with the object of letting them appear both the same size when the left one is overlapping the right. The tashes do not meet in front, being kept from 1h to 2 inches from the edge of the forepart. I.—Rirre Recimmvrs ‘The Tunic, with the exception of the Scottish Rifle Corps, ‘are made of the new shade of Rifle green cloth, which is eéged all round, with the exception of the collar, black seware cord 3 scarlet cloth collar and culls. The eollar is edged with } inch black braid, with tracing of plain braid below. ‘The cuils are pointed and trimmed with Austrian knot, with black braid round top, extending to 8 inches from the bottom of the cul, for all ranks. ¢ skirts rounded off at the front aad elesed behind, and dined with Black on each side of the breast; five loops of black square cord. with netted ‘cap and drops, fastened with black oli- vetts : on each back seam a line of the same cord form a crowi-foct at the top, passing under the netted cap at the waist, below whieh it iy made nto an Austrian knot,’ reaching 10 che bottom of the skirt. Shoulder cords of black chain gimp, with a small button of regimental pattern at the top. ‘The lire used for the Tunic on the West India Regiments is of the basis and stand pattern, TUNIC FOR ARMY SERVICE CORPS ‘This is made of biue cloth, with collar and culls of white cloth; the collar is omamented with } inch lace round the top, and gold cord Similer to that on the shoulder straps round the bottom. Fight buttons in front, and two at the waist behind; the skirts are rounded off in the front, closed behind with @ pleat at cach side and. Bing! of black silk. White Coth edging } inch wide all round (except the collar) up the’ skirt pleats, twisted round gold shoulder cord of the tuniversel_ pattern, lined with bine, and « small hotton of regimental pattern at the top. The cull is trimmed with an Austrian Ienot o! round back, gold covd, traced all round with gold Hussia braid. ARMY MEDICAL STAFF. The Tunic worn by the Medical Stafl js made of ble cloth: the skicts are closed behind snd rounded olf in front. The collar and cuffs are Of black velvet; the collar is Ineed round the top and down the front with } iach gold lace and gold Russia braid round the bottom. The culls Are pointed with two bars, 3 inch lace round top Shewing 4 inch lack velvet hetween the. bars, figured braiding of alternate large and sinall eye alone below the lace; the top of the braided figure is 10 iaches irom the top of the cul. HAL buttons aze put: down the front anc ovo at the waist behind ; there is a scarlet cloth edging all round (except the collar) and up the ski pleats; the skit is lined with lick sille; plaited Found gold shoulder ord of plaited gold wice asker cord gh iach in diameter, small gold gimp down centre, small button at top; the strap on the shoulder is 2} inches wide, terminating in a 4 inch wing: ROYAL ARMY MEDICAL CORPS The Tunic for the Royal Army Medical Corps is blue cloth, with collar and cutls of the colour of the facing; the collar is ornamented with inch lace round the top, and gold Russia braid along the bottom, The cuffs are gauntlet Shaped, 34 Inches deep in frou anil 6 inches the bat; twisted round gold shoulter cord ofthe universal pattern, lined with blue, Small button at the (09, the piping round the edge, ete, Deing of a dull cherry colour. ARMY ORDNANCE DEPARTM Tunic for prineipel Ordnance Officer is made of tlie cloth; the skirts rounded off in front and closed behind, — Scarlet cloth collar and cuffs; the collar liced round the top and down the front with 3 inch kice, and gold Ruse Sia braid along the hottiom ; eight buttons down an <' I] the front and two at the waist behind ; the front and skirt, pleas are edged with evarlet cloth Pinch wide, and the skirts are fined with black Sik; gold “shoulder cords of plaited gold wire pasket ‘cord, jy inch in diameter; sinal) gold simp down centre of strap oF ‘Ihe shoulder ford 2) inches wide, terminating in a 4 inch wing. ARMY PAY DEPARTMENT, The Tunic worn by a Colonel in the Army Pay Department is made of blue cloth; the front of the skirt is rounded off and closed be hind; yellow loth collar and cuffs ; the collar is laced ound and down the ont with a tow of gold Rassia braid along the botiom. The cuffs ire of the same pattern as those, uscd lor the Army Ordnance Department, an illustration of which je given elsewhere, There are eight but- tons down the front and two at the waist! behind ‘The front collae and skirt pleats are edged with yellow cloth } wide, and skirts Tined with, Black Bik; twisted round shoulder cord of universal pattern, lined with blue, and a small bu:ton of Departinental pattern at the top, ARMY VETERINARY DEPART Tunic worn by. those engug sey Departirent is made of blue cloths skirts rounded off in front and open behind ; maroon Nelvet collar and eitfls, 2 inch lace along the top \d down the front, sind collar and culls with row of round Rus’ ight buttons down the front, and two at_the hie flap on each skirt behind, (ged with round back gold cond: thres buttons onveach flap; sword flap is traced with gold Russia; the front enllar and skirts edged with maroon’ velvet the skirts are lined with black fk ; twisted round gold shoulder cord of the niversal pattern, lined sith blue. Small bution, Of Deparunental pattern at the op. PROVOST MARSHAL AND. MILITARY MOUNTED POLICE. The Tunie worn by a Provost Marshal is of blue eloth, with scarlet edging down the front ind opening at the hick of the skict, and colar nd calf; plain Naps on the skirts, edged with Scarlet; dive buttons on each Map and two at ihe waist behind; the collar is edged with inch Ice round the top and gold cord 4 inch in dia- meter at the bottom; iwisied round goid Shoulder cord of universal pattern ; the culls have an Austrian knot of round back gold cord. GOVERNORS OF The Tunic is made of blue cloth, with seat cloth collar and cuifs, with badges of ranke ac cording to the last sank held in the Army. MILUTARY PRISONS, INSP ARMY SCHOOL: Same Tunic as for, Officer of Infantry of the Line, with the exception that it is made of blue loth with scarlet cloth collar, eufls and edging + inisted gold sound shoulder cord of the universal puter, lined with blue; @ small button at the top. TOR OF OFFICER OF THE COLLEGE, SANDHUR ROVAL MILITARY v th, same pattern the Line, with blue Tunic ‘made of scarlet 4! as for Office of Infantry of Goth collar and. euiffs, The Officer of the Royal Hospital of Chelsea and Silmainham has Tunic of blue loth with « skirt 12 inches deep for an Officer sft. oin, in height, with, a propor tionate viriation for any difference in height, Plain searlet cloth collar and culls, with the badges of rank on the collor; blue flaps on each slocre, © inches tong and af inches wide, with three ‘small butions, anda small fap 9 inches Jong. with two buttows on cach skirt behind eight buttons down the front aud two at the ack of waist ; loops, of gold cord with small butions an each shoulder,” The front taps and Pack skirts are edged with scarlet cloth inch wide, and the skirt Tined with black. ROYAL HORSE ARTILLERY Officers of the Roysl Horse Artillery wear 4 Jacket in place of the Tunic. This is made from blue cloth, edged all round with gold cord, form. A igire 8 24 inches deep at the bottom of Sean, Colkir is of Scarlet cloth, cut Souare. in. front, with the comers slightly Founded ; it is finished with two hooks and eyes,Ea THE CUTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE with blue sill, tubs with ho he collar is edged all round with gold cord, with lace ff Inch wide round the top and down the front of the collar, with a grenade embroid in frosted silver 94 inches Jonge at exch cach side, in Front, loops of old cord 15 to number, sweording co height of wearer, Cree feaths af ain inch in dla inch apart from centre to centre, fastening’ with ball button, Rnished at the top with a crow's foot sind eur) | gold cord along: the back seam, forming a crow's Toot at the top of each side seam, and an Austrian Knot and curl at the bottom of each side seam, Shoaller card of plaited gold wire, Tined with blac, and a small button of regimental patiern at the top. The culls ace trimmed with an Mustela knot of gold cord 74 inches deep, I and aye, DRESS JACKET FOR ROYAL HORSE ARTILLERY. The garment, which takes the place of the Tunie far Officers of the Royal Hoese Artillery is the Dress Jacket, which is cut ae illus ‘on the opposite diagram, The system f itucing Vis Similar in general teatuires as descripe 4 tion for the Tunic. The back, however, is cut Father to the narrow side, Starting Irom th nape of the neck, we measuze down | depth of seye plus J inch, continue on to 8} depth of seye, ovat, Hotes: ARTiLLEI16 natural waist, 164 fall leagthy and come in from 16, © inch, and draw line ‘for centre of 1 inch from the nape of neck and inuurlt across | neck plus | imel, square lines at e> to the various pons, mark off width pitts | seam and {rom this point square up, 4 chest plus # to 1 inch, curve out Tor back Seje und shape shoulder from points so obtained, make the widih of back 14 (0 Uf inches at waist raw line from top of side seam 10 point 16, and round the side seam 2 inches, as illustrated, rom §, fof breast, 10.12, bres inches, Sweep for to 204 chest measure plus feck point {rom 12, by the front shoulder measure less width of back neck, and by point fof by adding 1 inch more than the previous quantity, where these two segments. datersect ‘each other locates the nec point Mark out from this point } necks, mark dowr J nosk phis 4 inch, find slope ef the shoulder by slug point 12, asa pivot, sind sweeping by the ofershoulder measure [ess distance from 84, to shoukler seam. of hack, make width of front stouller } inch less than back, shape seye as Shown, end complete the upper portion of the ganment. From the waist tke out 1 Inches be- body sind forepart, sind measure easure plus about 4 inch, and curve up waist to Dver thie hips sharply ; x wood plan is to measure in trom the side seam of lorepar, 14 inches sind hae OressdacreT RHA Psu Mansitas dowa rf inches; the point in front should) be about 4 inches below waist lineFROCK-COAT FOR FIELD-MARSHAL, GENERAL, LIEUTENANT-GENERAL, MAJOR-GENERAL, BRIGADIE GENERAL The recent changes which have been made in military uniforms have abolished many of the undress garments, but those which have bees worn hy General Officers, Colonels on the Staff, Headquactee General, General on Personal Stat The Frock-ooat Field-Marshal, ete ig made of blue cloth, DB, with biue velvet collar and euilfs, culls) being: round 3. inches esp; plain flaps are put in the bacte plete, Inches ‘wide and_ about 11 inches long for Olivers sft. gia, in height, ‘There are two row fof butions down the front, the rows being R inches apart at the top, 4 inches at the waist two buttons at the waist behind and one at the bolton of cach skiet fp. The skists are lined with black sie; shoulder cords of the same pattern as used on the Tunic. FROCK-COAT FOR COLONEL ON THE STAPF, This is made of blue cloth, D.B., with collar and) culfs of the same myterial as the coat; culls inches deep, and Gaps with three small huttons on each sleeve ; plain Maps at the back, pleats 14 inches wide and 11 Inches long, for a Otcer sit. gin. Two rows of buttons down the froat, eight in each row, & inches apart at the i ieches at the two huttons at the ‘st behind and ono on the forepart of each Skirt ip; the skirts lined with black ; shoulder cords ani buttons as for the Tunic HEADQUARTER, GENERAL ERSONAL STAFF. Frock-coat for Headquarter, General and Per sonal Stuf is made of tne pattern. as. for Colne of the Stal, with the exception of blue cloth shoulder straps ; Officers in the possession AND of a Regimental Frock-soat will continue to FROCK-COAT FOR AIDE-DE-CAMP TO THE KING, ‘These atre mae of bluc cloth, $.B., with cight loops of blue silk, twisted on wich’sie of the breast ; a small loop. inches fong, with a small button at each side of the collar plain cufis with two holes and butions to cack flap oa each skirt behind, with a button at the bottom; two bute the Waist behind ; skirt is "lined with inside tieket in esch black skict ;_aigu- tte and shoulder cord, same as worn with Tunic The Frock-coat is not required for the ordinary routine duty of the Aide-de-Camp. tons at bu FROCK. RS DAT FOR ORDINARY OFFIC! (UNIVERSAL SERVICE Bruck-coits for ordinary Officers is made of bite cloth, D.B., with stand collar 5 shoul sirup 2} inches ‘wide; plain sleeve with two Small buttons and buttan-holes at the bottom : six Buttons down woch front, § inches apart at the top, 4 inches at the bottom ; Raps or side pieces in the skirts behind, ro inches deep; one button (61 each pleat at the bottom and one it the top. Universit Senvier Tock Cox Housenoun Cavauie The skiets to reich to the lences and to be lined | shoulder straps of cloth of the same material as the garment, attached by an underpiece through a loop on the lower part ef the shoulder, fastened at the top by a small button, which passes through both underpieces and ‘shoulder strap,Lhibitary DB Frock Coat. BACK SKIRT.tle; lh, Teo alvais on-each toon the top Porsifaetiio te duis sean. sik at the wl, nets Jong inch bral on the outer Sav olsieve aml bate’ senmn, vith yes and Pingo i do wes od rose tthe bac site {The from fastens with hooks and eyes blade GRE tg tv the clot aboaller tape of the Same retrial the armen eace with inch Hane neues wie ccc thatbuaet blade fawe! buten at the to FROCK-COAT FOR FOOT GUARDS. This is made of blue cloth, S.B., with stand cr, ommarmented ith fuged forcing apd fizured rang on the ells Gre oops of Back Sid down eath front, with two olfrete on each trop: the top loops reaching to De stoukdes seam, thetbottom one Inches Wong. ae bottom tok income lite dittance above he waist | tres tos ol braid on each bak wide Anse with a tase! at the oor With an llvett atthe top. tie frone ts Snished wth Hooks and ope, he shin ined with black silky and’ the “shoulder Grape Of the ame materia se the_ garment fslged wih 4 inch blgle mohair brah exeept Mile bse’ blac net hsteon a the top ROC COAT FOR ARMY CHAPLAINS, Brock-coat worm by Army Chaplsins is an cording Clerical Fock. MILITARY D.B, FROCK-COAT SYS Draw fine 1G, mike 110 © 4 inch, Oto B+ opth of s5ye plus f inch © to E depth of eye, fs taken on customer. to G natural waist Iongths raw les at right angles w 1, F, Fy Gy cone ip {rom G to Ht inch to Bnd centre of Dack + this must be straight, as the Backs is eaken ‘ont on the ereise, Tito, \vis {of the necks messure ploe inch ‘The Wwilth of hack on line D is male to measure plus | inch | from this point square up to, of the breast plus 1 ineh from B to C, 4 to 1 Inch; by these points draw ack scye from D to ©, shoulder seam finn A to.C, aad back neck from Oto A. Now dra a straight line Irom D to G snd hollow sade seam of bvek about ] ineh at Is fake width of bask from Hi to Q about 2 inches From Q.t0 Rie if inches ; pont D is made a pirat and sweep cr 0 to to fd the Yeh BC side borly. | Point Tis made a pivot, and a yeep 1s made from | inch above point Die find top af side ody. Both of these sweeps are necessary, acause, when sewing the side body % the buck, a seam Taken [rom the hack malies it longer, and one taken form the side body makes it sorter Meastsre arose from messuve pos at inches. Prom goross chest measure, ae tlken on customer, iy may he found by measuring across from § to IK, Fol the breast, "Now sweep by the (ront Studer measure less she width of back neck from O to A, making point Ka pivot, and seep in the direction of Nu Now add 1 inch to that ‘Quantity, and use point Las a pivot, and sweep {ithe direction of N, where the two segments interscet each other, Jocates the neck point; pice the squareon IN, and mark out to O 4 of feck measure, down from 10 P, 4 of peck jalus Finch; to Bnd the slope of shostder at M deduct fe distance teom 4 10.0 S.y on the back from the aveesioulder mexsure, ad by che remainder ep in the direction of M, using point K as a hoe From gto J ie} breasts. square down Flom this point aad talce out 14 daches of waist Stippression hetween Sand T. Measure up waist CoP waist measure plus 2 inch : square across fom V to Xe at! hollow wast fiche Add on Tiich bevod the breast Line for the lapel seam, And shape kibel as iusirated ; make it) imcbes Wide at top and 2) wide at bottom. ‘THE SKIRT. Draw line across from V tw X and! hollow the waist seam at Winch. Marke dows to Z, 4 of the sea point square from’'V to A At” mark down From V to T one-twelfth of the seat plus & iach, and squace foot to BB. Add-on inch Gf rows st the back, sand complete sleet as Showa. The amount of fulness to he provided for at the waist must be decided in each case 5.1 ill fot be necessary, as a rule, to allow for more thas iach. THE BACK SKIRT. As shown, 1 19 Q, agrees sith HO of the back CC, DD, is finct more thas HQ 3 ineh i added on for Seams above HQ, and 1 ie is Blloweal forthe snakdag up of the pleat bevond Q aad DD. ERAL’S FROCK-COAT SYSTEM cr! The Frock-oatt, such as ig wom by those Officers iho are mounted, requices a little adap: tation Irom what we have already described, and wwe herewith give a siall diagram, showing the eonssary variations. As far ae bodypmst is cone ermal this particilar ‘coat is. ilentical with Awliat ye have alrecdy described, the lapel, hose Gyan fe cut wider The regulation for the dis tance between the buttons being wider than for the ordinary Offices. These are 8 inches apart fat the top, and 4 sechos apart at the waist part ; the bottom isalso Increased to 8, in ener to prom Vide for this the lnpal is cut § Inches wide at ‘the top and inches wide st the bottom. Coming: fo the skirt it-will be noticed that more spring. FS provided rotnil the botion edge in order thateye maa ceenneen obs feces glen ot iseehacle “Ths aetncelvas Bioethics tow of tema as Selon) nee oes te ede Batter crt ee Gedy nae eg Hs a as pak Gace face mol Ge ind rape teat fo rte er ae By cad wine cal yee oemmd 1s D.B. Ewocn Cons. find the rin of front, marie down to the very Bottom point of side body: to Xs inckes, and que the front of the srt at right angles. to Nvtind botiom of forepact; ollow tbe walst ‘rine, and complete as per diagram, SINGLE DREASTED FROCK.COA’ The yarious points of thie garment are found in preclsely the same way as deseribed for th DB, Frockecoat We are giving a stvall dh gram of this, whieh is practically the same as the larger diggtam for the D-B. Frock-coat, and ths shows that the front is fished at the breast Toe, as thiy is aiads to fasten up with books and jes: The dotted line down the front is 1 Fepse ‘Sh ts forepare tured fn, sb that the hooks nd Meditary Frock Coat fv Ohicars of The ltards |) tn dhicars of The vars SB. Frock Cost eves down the front may be more securely fastened, ‘The pattioulacs of braid, etc. will bbe found in our fllistrations tind description. MESS JACK! The general style of Mess Jackets worn by neatly ail Officers fe of the voll collar patter, Without burtons or braid on any” part of the — Jacket. One inch slit to be leit at the cull The buck is Gnished with a point at cone of bottom, sharply curved over the hips. Collar Dacges, of Hie Same. patter as. ben oa. the ‘TNinie, are pluced' 3 from the shaulder” seam, Badges of rank, of the regimental siza of embeoi- dry, are phiced on the shoulder straps Mistenties Decowsrioss—Medalsy sora with this Jacket, The following is. a Aescription of the colour of cloth used for the Jacket, collar, shouWler sisaps, raf, and wal Sout, Hy the dillerent regiments + MESS JACKET FOR ‘THE HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY Mess Jacket vora. by Household: Cavalry’ is finished wien stand colle nthe neck, Jace roundthe edges, and finshed as follows: Ror the 1st tnd and Life Guards it 13 made of scarlet cloth sit bike velvet cola and cally and elgina, Pit offer Cm eta Pd Ba and is. tined with drab ilk Kor the Koyat Horse Guzrds it ie made of blac clo, sith collar, culls, aad caging’ of scarlet cloth.” Gold luce, 1 ioeh’ wide, all round the Jacket ithin the edging (2nd ite Goards, the edging Ot ve Yet within the lace), and round the top of the Cuffs, wlveh are pointed and 5 inches deep pen tees ied nt wean oe The 1st and and Life Guards baw 2 row of gil suis dowa the front; geld. shoulder cord and plained chain wimp. 12 inches sie. Field Officers are further distinguisted by gold gimp ouuid the collar aad eaffs ia the Lile Guards s inch lace in the Royal Horse Guards st the inttian of the enllar and top of the cate. MESS JACI T FOR DOT GUARDS Fis is made of searlet loth, with collar and calls of garter blue; roll collar, with regimental bide on it, 3. inches fue shower sean. [27 ved. Fick! Offers ave oo each evo thre tous of satall giexp cord, forming: an eye at the top + Ciplain, ten rows Laeateminty Cults po MESS JACKET FIELD MARSHAL The Mess Jacket for Field Marshal, General Oficers, Colonel cu the Stall, Offers ander the Fankeof Colonel, not on Cave of « Unit, = made Dr scarlet eloth, with blue collar; shoulder steape fare of hie cloth, caged with { inch ice the ifs are pf ble ckith and warsteodt Ts of blue to orrespond with the collar and culls. sr Drscoox. Guakis. Jacket of scarlet loth, with blue collar und euilsy seorlet shoulder Straps and searlet vest. Gk Descoos Geakns.—ieket of seartet loth, with buff collar and culls, scarlet shoulder Sieap nel yest 1 DANcoo Gears. Jacket of eeariet loth, with yellow collar and culls, seariet Shoulder strap and est its Jacket of vehes omg, tf sochos Mide in leant the ticket pocket Witht shaped fap eel aeall binton/on guaineNty 4 ares Foket without button below the bund ; a sit at the evita tem ae baste, Grenade Gund, 9 Goldstrea Guerds, two pats Sots Gard, theees, Draw tide OWA, A, F neck, plus $ inch. Oto 1 equal tia 1 to Gt ES depth of seve, plc finch Oto F depth of seve. Oto G hatural waist. Oto UA full length. Et D. With of back, Dito Bf breast, plist inch B tn Cj inch ; shape shoulder from Ato C. Eto JS chest oatasure, plus 2 hiches, J to. Kneross ihest measure ; oe i may be founel By {of breast, feom point FG to FE of hresst. Shape side Swim, ar ilasteatod. 1040 Ry 18 inches, equare Gown’ Irom J to Ui and mesure up wis to ‘eure, plus seams, and reduee by Vs 98 shown, ule inch should be taken ut at tne inch at ¥, swap. forthe shoulder. First of all from Kj using the {root shoulder Inensuce, less OA of hack; now add 1 Hoch to {is quantity snd “sweep agai from point J were the two. sexgmens toned atl other fe_neck point Ny Nita Of of meee e sqanre on} N, ond mark out to O, 0 ius bch; by able potne draw gorge ‘at reas lng from © 40 J bd on tte at ahd Toll at was this Ty dame to pve rtm eate at thit part? aad on’) iach button Gard) wel chctolete as chown To find the stye end of shoulder, sweep from point K'by the dvershoulder mezsuce, less FO Prof back, make the whith of sbmulder 9. trifle lest than backend shape ‘soyey as. illustrated The bottom part of forepirt is eut off ap a separate ec} ime down from 3X th "yf oF sea ple Finch : square by R* down to W end add on a frile of round ; come down from Rio. V, fof oat, and square for front st right ongles’to. V B. The position of pockets ts iikistated : 3 small loop Of broil is pit at the side eeam, ot H for the belt, to go through ; sew on button stand fon tight side snd malee provision for ths when uttiag the skirt; three Small Vs ace taken out ot the waist seam of the skirt, sith the object of giving extra spring over the hips ‘The sleeve eur exactly the same ae alendy deceribed. TheLanorenasr Covent Ma SSeeoNW LBUTENANTay ingen stared Wor te Trish Guae ia two pairs sn 9 fh re four buttons. put UNIVERSAL JACKET For all other Officers the new Universal Service Frock reploews the various patterne that sere prt viously woun ta) description of this garment is SERVICE ts follows: This i nade of spucial Mist serve, of the sume colour as that sssuct uh; Hinglebrensted; cul as a ‘ the waist very Jonge atthe ehest and shoulders, bat Fite at the waist; a 24 inches expanding pleat down the centre of the pack, sewn down Flow the vesistbard aad @ waist seom and band 2] inches wide; iniitary skirt to bottom ce "howl on each side at the waist jacket eut low infront ol the neck} turn down (Prussian) eollr to fasten with one hook and exe ; tsb wrderneaty Durtonshales, tution across He oe inches fall ta the front sind 2 inches at ‘bark, collar edges to nin V-shape, showing top, buttoa lxtween j two cross-pateh breast. pockets 6 inches wide and 74 inches deep t0 the opal the Hap, 24 inches box pleat in the cant oexparnig pckeis below the nals (ples ot the sides), of ines wide at the top, 104 Inches st the Hutton, 8 cies deep (o the top of the packet, fastened ar'the top with 4 small button + fap, 8i0 hhutton-hol rockets, 31 inches deep, tot inehes Wie, sen into baton edie of ais and. The top of the pockets shoud be sews Gown at the corners in sucha manne: that on Scrviee the pockst eaa be expanded a1 the top ako. ‘Outside ticket pocket in top of the waistband on the right side inside wate pocleer) with Teather tab sthove for ehaia or strap. Five large buttons Lown the fron, the bosom one on the Tower ede A wabstbind. "To be lined or not as require ‘with fining of similar coli to the jacket.» Cults pointed si inches deep at the point, 24 inches Seep at she nek SHOULDER STRAPS fre now only worn by Stalk Officers, for whom they have two broad stipes of ced cloth vith Vitek serge, igh Macher affvers ave cords al plaited braid shoulder BUTTONS. gilt mountety?” "Regimental patterns BADGES (On the colle of the service dress faceet The present pattern Geld cap badge, or the present parters colar badges, but in heosin bronze BADGE SHAFE Metal, ag worn on blue serge foots, vide Dress Regulations, prrsiesph cures. Recienrat Orriceats:—Ranle wil fe shown by braiding on the sleeves with drab hraid-and by tistnction vides vin the sleeves, sat the vecompanying lisstation. dectow Te all be geen that there i 4 slash se Goees Aone at the loreaem seat, and oven inchs log it ihe points | 24 inches Gide at the bottom, ane { iasnee at the top. Thies taged with Laney drab braid, ‘Distinction iarks ausording to vank "e putin the slagh, “Round the mile are cove of inal, together with nero Russia braid, also of the diferent ranks vill be gathered from the scoompaeying. dngrame MILITARY SERVICE JACK! We now place before our readers the diagram fn Officer's Service Dress Jackel, as made b fone ff the most renowned wiley tailors 49 the West End, who leave sisle of cul and fish which oenlslly thee owe Aad whieh is, cane Tequently, nat in’ accordance "with the sealed paticmn Rept at the War Ollce he main diferences are an absence of cute at the neck, the skirt i eut Mone with the body pact, ana the sas onthe eu formed bythe bra. Large numbers of these jackets cut in this style sre now being mad, ind worn bythe alicers Tava future issue ve will give an up-to-date diagrino of the sealed pattern stya ins corms The following are the ofleiat regulations Ieis made of a special mixture serge; singlee breasted, cut as 4 Lounge Coat to Waite: very e at the chest and shoulders, but fitted at the ‘Van esjmuding pleat doven the cetive af te clei sewn down below the waikt-bond and = waritesenth “anid 2} inches. wide Ekiet 0 bottom edge ta hoole on each ride of waists jacket eat ene in Front of the nick + down Prussian colle, to fasten with one ho eye, ah inches fallin front, and 2 inches at lack 5 Wit leather tab aver for chain or strap. Five lege buttons down the frost, the bottom one on thevlower edge of waistband. To be fined or ast, 5 required, with lining of similar colour to the Jackets Shoulder straps af melton eleth the same folour ae the garment, eed all round exept at the shoulder seam, aecording t the branel of the Service, attoched to the jaeker by an underpiace assed through a loop on the lower part of the Shower, and fastened at He top bya small burton hich passes” through both nderpiece and collar edges to rum V-shape, showing top button Fatween | Iwo cronepatel breast poekies above ff inches wide and 74 inches deup to the top of the flap, of inch Hoxgptesn in the erates tO ex ainding: pockets below the waist [pleats at the Sue), ob inches wide ot the top, 10h laches at the Botton, $ inches deep to the top of the. pocket ¢ Fasten at the top with a simall bution. Aap. with Inttonctiole to cover porkers, 3g inches der To} inches wide, seven into. botiom edge of the Gaiethand Outside tieketepecter ta top of the traisthand on the right sides inside waterrpocket the top of the strap is triangular, ng aint #2 ices Tong, al the m+ inch ebm the cenire point, Calis pm, With thoee pointed “shisis, laced and. brad Eeooraing to rk. Badges of rae in wocsted on the slashes Duiteas Gig mer ungilt; “ae str soe" mutts” Nogimental patterns THE SYSTEM. Draw fines at ight angles 10.0. O10 A cinch Ato W gi inches, to © depth of soye as teen586 zee ind eneve side seam into shout 1 inch above dept ‘fish of J inch or } nei. one-twelfth breast, and spring out incl ‘waist J inch, Ftod width of hack plus e Square line up and down from hace pit ‘on customer: Oto Df neckin from NW. Allow 24 inches all down the back for the pleat, and eomplete the back as shown. THE FOREPART. uppress the sidesea of the forepart 4 neh or 1 ipeh, and add 1 inch spring at Go Fis FoF the breast plus i is the § breast, plus 2} inches. Sweep by front shoulde measure less the back neck fram ¥. Add 1 inch to this quantity, ancl sweep again [rom nil where these segments ross lorates the feck point. Sweep from F by the overshoulder wire less to C10 J of the buick, tnd. m: (Ka trifle less than the corresponding widih of the back, Gio Nat His} neck. Ht J is feels plus 4 inch, Che average neck for the 30-inch breast is 13. Square down trom 208, and drop the waist Hine ia front J inch. Reduce the waist by a fish under the arms of + incl, and another inthe front of J inch. Find the spring at che front by dropping down from the waist Tine to ~ one- invelfth of the breast, and squseing at right angles tot, Drop the front 1 ineh as shown, Add on Pinch for the button-hole side, and 0} for the utton side, and complete as shown THE SLEEVE. Dray fines at right angles to O. Oto B 1 inch. D to Ais the distance benween the front of sey and the back, of 2 trifle more than between tin Jand FB to C the size of the upper part of the Seve between the two pitches. The length to the ethow and eull is made up to the meastite Laken. The forearm is hollowed 1 ineh at D, andthe ih from + tag is 1 chest plus 2 itl width of tho culf is J breast plus ¥ inch. is 1} inches, For the undersleeve, Ato D is the same size 2 the lower part of the soye between the two pitrhes. The collie is cit_as shown. on the diagram, and is only a straight piece 43 inches Wide, sind of the accessary length. THE SEALED PATTI RN of the Universal Service Jucket ib aut as'n Lounge to the waist, with a 24 fh expanding plea the cenire of back to the waist, but sewn down Filow the waist seam: 24 inch Waistband own on round tho wast “Tre Tengthof the skirt Below the waist-band is the same as for the tunic. TW0 cress poske! nd flaps are placed on the hips below the waist, the flape belng stitched on under Che waists ‘The faps are jb inches wide and 16¥ inches long, the potkers below being of the bellows paiteray and are made-9 inches at the top and 108 inches at the bottom... The expansion ie tacked own At top aivd bation of the pocket, except for netine Secrive, There 1s a iekee pocket placed on the Wwaist-band on the right Sidey ancl a! watch placed in the left facing. Four large buttons ae piaced down the front, two small butions outside the breast pockets, sind a corresponding number for the hip pockels, The breast pockets have a box-pleat 2) inches wide down the cenire, Oto Ais 1 inch, A to B 4# inches, or ball the depth of seye plus f inch, \'to © 84 inches, or the depth of'seye } on to NW, 16) the waist length Oto} of, plus’) inch, Vine. B to F width of hack plus two seams. F to G § breast, plus rinch, Gto Hs hich. Square down GE to Waist, ind suppress backe { iach. Suppress: waist i ack 4 inel, and add on 2f-hich boxpleat The waist line is sewn cound buck as well as fore= pact. Spring out at bottom back. by: dropping fquare at per dotted line | inch. Suppress foce- pact as marked. The froat of seye ts found at fanesfodeth Of breast plus 3 inches from centre of hack ; or by measuring bark from 20) one-fourth of BM, less d inch, aol at waist ie drawn at fight angles (rom 20] B. The ewts are regulated according to the amount of ease, ete, that Is equired round waist. The run of wore is found by: going aut [rom the eck point } of neck, and drawing Hine from X through breast and waist points. The Sleeve :—O to A js 1 inch, © to B distance herween pitehes, A to C width of sleevehead. The Collar: Draw liner O, Diand B. O.to 4 js the difference between depth of stand and fall plus { iach. A to Bis depih of stand. Bio © Hepth of fall. D to E depth of stand jn front MILITARY OVERCOAT The Biliary Overcoat te practically the same for all services, those used for mounted offe being cut with extra spring soa to provide for tive special requirements of that clas The following are the official eagulations of the slitury Greateoat + Cloth, drab mixture, milled and watersprooted doublechressted, to reach within foot of ground, stand and fal collar 5 inches deep (a inch Stand sind inch fal), fastening with 1Wo hooks and eyes; cloth tab aid bation inch ine Yerted expanding. pleat down the esntre! of the hack, from the collar to the waist, terminating under the backestrap ; loose turicbuck Single material, 6 inches deep ¢ two slit To inches Tong, jeated in with utton pocket-mout ge pitch poset fine cloth; one button and hole 19 exch pocket mouth ; and let pocket mouth to answer for ihe Sword slit: a pocket in the breast pinced vertically Between the second and thied button; two rows GE huttons down the (eon (ou. tn ‘Gach row about Of inches spire, the rows 8 laces apart a the top and 4h" inches. atthe bottom (these Inensurements afm sot to be exevedled) two tabs and buttons to slit in buck seam; a acnch cloth hackstrap fastened with three oles snd buttons j skirt (o fasten with two tals and buttons inside,fo THE Cerise OF MILITARY and to run squarely all round; Raglan" Shaped sleeves, with a cut taken out on the Shoulder ; coat lined on shoulder and sleeve onl Shoulder Straps. ‘The edging of these is as follows:-— Styrr-—Two broad stripes of red cloth A inch serge, Bight Cavarey oF THe Line loth, ring, | inch yellow Rovat, Anrianey.—Edging, 4 inch dark blue Goth; in the cene a loop of seuelet braid from ‘the shoulder seam round. the upper end ff the hssttonshole, the sides of the loop + inch, apa Revat. As for Royal Artillery, that avith colours reversed. Inravrny. Edging, 4 inelt scarlet cloth, Ansty Seavicr Cones. —Edgingr, } inch white loth, Rovat, Aqwy Manica, Conrss—Bdgingy inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, that of dall cherry’ braid Ana Pay Dewswrweve:—Eidging, inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of yellow rai Anay ORDNANCE Devanrmune—Eeuing, inch white cloth: loop as for Royal Artillery, nut of searlet braids Muse Verentsaxy Devanrannsss Edging, inch white cloth ; loop as for Royal Anullery, but ff maroon braid inch white bout of Black Provasr Marsital.—Edging, cloth; loop as for Royal Avilla braid! INsrReToR oF AwHY SCHOOLS —Kdging, 4 incl Hight bluw cloth, Rodges of rank are worn on the shoulder end of the strap. For mounted ollicers the eoat is cut below the ‘yaist, with spring 10 form 10-inch lap, a: 8 inches én Irom the cenire Tine ‘The slit at the back Should be of suitable length for riding. THE SYSTEM, Draw line AB. A to Dr inch, D to F depth of seve, Dito Bis iach more than half D to F. D to G is natural waist plus 4 inch, Ato € Jol breast plus 1 inch, and wp iach. Draw back heck through © to A. E to Hi half back, phis }inch, H to Lis { of breast plus 1 incl, ad out finch always, Foto Jd breast plus 4 inch ; on fo 22, and back from’22 10 K breast ‘plus east plus g inches. Square down from J to waist Tine, and mark out 5 inches on either side. Drop square « iuch for spring of bsek and ferepart, TH to M is front shoulder measure less AC. 22 to Mis 1 inch more than KM. MioN is f breast, Noto O is same, plus finch, Draw line of breast, N, through O to 22, and continue by dropping square + ich at Ky and Continuing on to bottom. The dotted lines Show the necessary alteration for Cavalry WAIST BELT. om al? width of Back THE COLLAR. Draw line © DE. D to E fe depth of stand at front ; marke in } inh. D1 O length of colle © to-4 is the difference between stand and fall plus b inch, “A'to Bidepth of stand behind. B to € the fall rHE SL EEVE Piist draw out as ordinary sleove, 3 is midway between and 2, 300 4 Is same as NI S of fore: part, less J inch From 3, sweep from 4, as Indicated. "rom from 4, a8 indicated. Measure fren. forearm piteh of forepart to nec point, and make 5, 6, of sleeve, same, plus 4 inch. Hollow | inch = shown. Mark on sixeep line fiom 6, 1 iach, and connect with 3. Marke out froma! 1 ne, and drs to 4, ahd Hollow ont The ent on the shoulder of the sleeve is covered with a shoulder stsup of the same cloth as the garment, edged all round except at the shoulder Seam, avcording to the branch of the Service itached by an undepiese passed through a loop fon the lower putt of the shoulder and fastened at the top by a small utton whieh passes through oth underpiece and shoulder strap; the top of the strap is triangulac, the sides being about 1h inches long, and the button 1 inch from the contre point HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY CLOAK, © Gowk worn by the Household Cavalry. is y loose fitting SVB, garment made up as Follows = ist Lire Goinps, Scarlet cloth, blue loth collar and cape, rose aud chain fastenings, sear Tet serge lining’ to the waist. axp Lire Guawps.—Searlet cloth, with blue doth cape, rose and chain fastenings, with sei Tet cloth eollar and. seartet shallot lining to the waist Rovai Hors Gearns Blue cloth with searlet cloth collar ond scarlet Ratiine Shoulder straps of the ment, with small bution of re at the top, Tieng nie material as the gar imental pattern CLOAK FOR HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY. SYSTEM FOR HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY CLOAK, System for cutting eldiik is as follows: For orilinary 36 chest Rgure, select meisures os for a 42 chest, and procced as follows Draw tine OP, mark up from O to 1 1 ine Oto D 4 depth of seve, plus 4 inch; O toh © to K natural waist; 0 to P abut §0 inches for a eatin ot sere length, which runs 1 6 feet ‘Square lines across from 1 D, K, and P, x © to A} breast; D 10 E width of back plus two inch, Bro # to inch. Sq to Gy Fito His} breast; if ites fine; from'F tp) is the HWS 34 inches. Sweep (tom point ‘T hoeeast plus. | down from BE io 1 is § breast est measure by the front shouldee add iach 40 that quantityFO THE eUrING oF snLiTARY GMnENts. 8 cad eae oan 70 eee MEeC the 0 Paty. Row sweep slain irom point by. the over Dee ceed teal eee es aes Tin of Ue Ga cast oat ee We ances ot fhoulter, the WN ot shower beige 18 farmoniée wiuk the bac Slack out trom 19 Wray Beh anglee inti), Pownce: male dann Toe Wie Ne teeta nel ue {he ores Noe aa omer tea) io Aa Gs paley Peeper conch id bos hele or fhe lation tind Squnee Saale Hf ott aa pane a Se aT ToL eta eee ete eo from 1 throw Laid N to Land Kes the wth Tan ha ear ea on Hea compli Cost manrae Li uy one Teo veoas ive buttons are peed wp. (he font and Sead ate aaa ree a Sr dee Seaplane eat te ston of ihe, Tisen tate a th Slooves are drawn as osual qwith the exception that the width of the elbow is made full | breast find the width of cuff } breast plus + inch. ‘The collar as illustrated on this dingram is as follows © to Sb neck measure: O to 1 1 inches © tu 2, 2 inches, which gives depth of stand; 210 5, 3 inches, which indicates the fall. ‘The Cape wom with ‘this ie a very Tull one it being: Gait by plicing the shoulder points of coat to- gether and iaing out a \ of about 2 inches es per dingsram, FOOT GUARDS" OYERCOAT. The Overcoat, worn by the Foot Guards. is made of the Dt Frock stsle from grey cloth, uh stgulder “steaps ef the same materll 0% Ie garment, wih ral bution of regimen paitern at the Top ; back stp are placed down Brick of plat, 12 ‘inches Tong” with poiot Sie but Dlacsd at the fronts pockets are put inthe plexes turn back cuff ee ranged at the hottom of the sleeves. TEM FOR FOOT GUARDS? OVERCONT. Draw fine 0, NW, 0 to 1, 4 inch | O10 D, 4 dept of seve plus } inch. Oto Ty depth of Oto NW, aatuead waist length. | Draw git angles to 4, D, F and NAV. NW Tinech. Draw line © to 1, and <6 obtain entZe of bck, The back cat on the €r neck by making Oto A? breast. Mark Width Of back, on Tine DE'plus $ inch, Square Up tron D- Wyeast plis 4iaeh, and marke out ftom t9 B16 Cg tot ich, Draw tine from Eto NW, and’ hollow at Mark the width of ack at waist Kot isd breast, plus § inch ie f breast pls Pinch; Fv J is bre c pls 3f inches Sweep for tie neck point, V, from 1 by the Front shoulder messin pls ¥ neh, teas width of buck neckes add 1 inch to this quamiity, and Sweep again from J. Where the two segments intersect each other Toestes the nck pein. ind slope of shoulder at L by sweeping: from by the overshoulder mesure pli 1 inch, less FB of back Squate out from V by JV § breast, and mark down from * to X breast phish inch. From Kite Lie 1 inch The sidebody and forcpart are hollowed inch. Draw line down front H, mesure up waist fomesstive phis y inches hollow the waist seam sweep from K to. bottom of sideholly, pivot, before dawwing the line for the Of the forepari, The sewing to edge of spel is drawn straight, the width of the top rehes, the width at the hottem 2 inches Bor the Skit marie down to." 4 breast, and square down rant ip button g inches. Mar put from 9. ine an das ine fro ip Button through shat point to bottom. Add on {inch of round, hollow waist seam % inch at foo. Yo wet the spring of the front, mark down from hip button. breast Jess jnch. The sleeve is drafted as usu the width of the sy se. Shape backs b the» the Foor Guaros? elbow being made breast plus } inch; the forearm being hollowed t | inch from’ that quantity. The width of the cu is made Desist plus 4 inch, sand «tar cult is) mad 4 inches at front top. and hack and 5 inches at the MILITARY AT COATS, DOMINION OF CANADA A Special pattern Overcoat is worn in Canada. Iv is cut from heavy: milled cloth of the colour as for ordinary great coats, aud is made D-Bs with # stand and fall collar, high enctrgh to fully cover the ears when turned up, In suape, it is of the body coat pattern, but made somewhat looker $0 a8 to fit over the Mess or Patrol Jacket + it is eut_ to reaeh within foot of the ground, glissade is used to line the sleeves, and eloth the bedy and skirts. asirachan fur ds used for the covering of the cellar, blade on the blue coats, SSS! curtis pricrical GIDE Overcoat. and grey on the grey coats; the Japels are lined ‘with Similar fur on the inside, that is, the surf next to the breast when the lapel is fustened up 3 the fur on the collar and lapsls is doubled over the cloth, forming an edging 1 inch wide on the reverse side; the edging is continued down to the waist seam. ‘The cus. are trimsned with similar ir, 54 inches deep all round ; four loops of 4 inch binek squire cord down the froat oa each side, cach loop forming an eye in the centre, on top ‘and below, and a crow’s foot at the end, Blucie netied Oliveit on wich loop near to crows foot, two Olivetis on the waist behind. A pockes is placed on the inside of the left breast, and pockets inserted in the pleats of skirt ; three hooks and eyes are put on the collar, and shoulder steaps of the same cloth as garment, with aout button a the top; [ur used (or Officers of Rifle Regiments is black: The method of cutting is as follows :—Dray line OE, Oto 1 inch, 1 to Af neck, plusOw B seye, plus J inch ine depth of } to depth oF seve, Oto D natural waist Tength, © to F, fashion’ waist, B to F width of back, plus one seam, F to Gj breast plus 1 inch GtolH 1 inch; by these points shape back scye and shoulder sia. Draw a line from 1 to D tid fied point J, 4 or ] inch jaside the dotted Widih of Tack at waist le up to, 4h incl fat it should be eut about 2 Thetes from D to Ny Eto S being the sam width, The bottom of the back is stumped, the entre of the buck is cut on the crease; from Sto Mis chest_ measure plus 4 inches, M to | icross cliest plus $ inch ; from these two points Sweep for the neck point Y, and use. front Shoulder measure plus finch less width of hack neck; when sweeping from point L, add inch to this quantity, and sweep again from point M these “two segments intersect ach oti k point ¥- To find point X, sweep fom point L, by the over-shoulder Intasure. plus finch, but minus the distance from © to L of the back, lower the seye about } inch between line CM, and complete seye as shown, From Y to N is 4 inch less than Se width of back shoulder Ato H, © to K is 4 breast plus } inch, take out 1] or 1 inches: from Nito O, tale put t inch fom P to Q, and mesure up Waist to measure plus 31 inches. Now use point F as @ pivot sweeping trom $ «o Ty draw Hine across from To Wat right angles to Tine OE, hollow the waist at V about Bnch, and complete body par. The gorge being found by sqiincing out from Y M to XJ neck, and make XZ necle plus 4 inch. The lapel is cut, with the sewing’ to edge of the same shape ay front edge of ferepari, the ‘width of the lapel at top is 4 inches and 3 inches at the bottom, Kor the skirt, hollow the waist seam a bare J inch, mark down from W to 44, 4 breast, and Square for back pleat at right angles to 4) Ts Inuk off the length as desired. To get the spring of the front, measure down from I 38, + breast plus # inch, and square at right angles Yo ap W3 add on at the front the necessary width for’ the lapel, making the length of front to agree, and complete as shown. ‘The sleeve is eur as follows? Oto 4, 1 inch, O 1 34 is width ol scye, which may be found by deducting: the width Of BF fom the distance from C te L. the hindarm seam of slaove is located at the side seam, and the forearm at point Lj to obtain the width of sleeve head measure round top seye fron Fw G, and cross to Lj apply: that from 1 t 10; O fo 5 is 4 distance irom ¢ to 105 measure of Iength Of sleeve to elbow and culty hollow the forearm at elbow 1 inch, and make the width of elbow from 1 to 9, about | of the breast. The width of cuff may be mado breast plus 1 ich, For the under sleeve measure round the bottom of seye from F to Ly and apply that quantity from 3# to 85, and coms plete as shown, COLLAR. Draw Tine at right angles, mack off from O. to 8) f size of nec, come ip from SL 1. inch and shape the sexing to edge, © to 1} is inches or the depth of stand required. 19 to §i is 4b inches or depth of fall requiced From 8) 0 11 is 24 inches, and from 11 to 3. is y inches; complete collar as shown, MILITARY TROUSERS, The aiteentions; which came into force on the ha the eect ot abinie ing gold lace irom Trousers, with the exception 1S ee ee ee sitpes Gi the tousers, are now to be the same as those vor previously nthe prntatoons. In the Akay Veronisaey Duvaktamvt, maroon loth Ins to be worn instead of the seat cloth Gn trousers and" pantaioons, and. in all other branches of the sefviee, the old style of Undress trousers are now the only patiern, A special note wns made in the Army Order stating that the outer stipes sloeld be bua on, noe let Into the gorment, which of course refers to the wide stipe and not 10 che piplag ow wousers swoon by che Infantry. “The trousers “ween by Piddd-Marshals and General ‘Oicers are made from blve cloth with Sarl stripes, 34 faches wide down the side ‘Trousers worn by the H and Personal Stall have 1] Trousers worn by the Household Cavalry for full dress are made from blue eloth with gold lace down the side sean, Ist Lire Guaens.— Two stripes each 1] inches wide with a soarlet welt down the centre, axn Lire Guan. One stripe 2 inches wide, blue ia the centre Roval HosSE Gvanbs.—One stripe 2} inches wide. For undress the stripes are of scarlet closh r6 acfanged as follows + — ter Lire GuaRbs. Two stripes 1] inches wide. xb Lick GUARIS.—Two stripes 14 inches wide, 4 inch apart, with a searlet welt or piping, baween the stripes * Raval, Howse Guskns.—Th stripe, af inches wide. Dricoos Granos ap Dracooss.—Trousces are made of blue cloth with cloth strip: of the same Colour as those wom by the men 1 inches wide. exp Daacooy Guanns fe a Single One stripe 1 inches wide made from white cloth, Gm Dracoox Guanos.—Two _w } inch wide, wich f inch space beween In all other regiments the stripe Ist} inches wide. Hessurs. Trousers of blue cloth, (with the exception of the 1th, which are made of erin son tloth with two } inch yellow eloth stripes, # inch apart). 15TH Hessaks,—Two white stripes {inch wide, J inch apart. All others with two yellow steipes, $ inch wide with J neh space between. Lascuns. Trousers of blue, with two stipes, Pinch wide, with Finch space between. 17TH LANCERS.—The stripes are white. Hut in all the others they are of yellow, Roya Horse Anritieev.—Trousers of blue, with 1 inch scarlet stripe down the sides. Rowan Escisetns, “Trousers wom are made fof blue cloth with 2 inch searler stripe down side Israxray TRousmes, Foot Guards at _Levées and Drawing Rooms. When {ull dress is worn fn.the evening, blue cloth, with gold lace rl inches wide down side scam; on other occasions, blue cloth with searlet stripe 2 iaches wide, INEINTRY OF THE LINE (except. Highland and Scottish Kegiments).—Trousers made, of blue cloth, with scarlet welt or piping } inch wile down the side seams. HGHiaxd axb Scorrian Reais, of tartan of authorised pattern. Sctors Riries.—Trews are of tartan of authorised patter _Rurtes (King’s Royal Rifles andl all others).— users of rifle green cloth with 2 inch black braid down side seams; but, for summer weary they are made from rifle green tartan. Trewsto THE CUTTING OF Wes Inpia Resiesrs. Trousers are mate from white material for all ordinary occasions. Ciuxesi: Reauinsts—Trousers are made of the infantiy patters ; Grom Oxlord Mixture in bold weather, with red welt or piping down side Seams ; in hot weather kharki trousers are worn Auny Seuvic Corrs.—Trousers of blue eloth, two strips of white cloth each } iech wide and Finch apart down the sid Away MEpICAL Corrs.—Trousers of blue cloth with searlet stripe 2b inches wide down side ARMY ORDNANCE OFKEHRS—Trousers of blue cloth with two stripes of scarlet cloch 4 inch wide and f inch apart at each side seam. Opticexs ax ule Mga Pay Dievunstesr. Frousers of blue cloth, with two yellow. clot stripes £ inch wide 4 inch apart down each side Akay Versuyaay Derarrneyr.—Trousers of blue elo with maccon lot stripes 14 Inches Psovosr Maranst, Miuirary asp Movxrsp Pouce, GoveRNOR OF Miiryey Prasoss. Trousers of blue cloth ith scarlet cloth stripe Upinches, wide dawn side seams, InsravcroRs or Aas Scvoous. Trousers made of blue cloth, with ovo stripes of sewer cloth, wach 4 inch wide, with fight blue cloth INFANTRY TROU SYSTEM. Proceed 19 mark off the lengih of side_and leg; make O to 6 § of seat, 0 too O'ty 12 fof seat. “Square down from 6, 1p from 9. Make A to 10 | waist plus 2 inch, id spring out from 10. t0 13-2 Find the position of Knee by measuring’ down, From 6:t0K, 2 inches less than § leg measure: From K mark off } size of knee, on the side seam side of B, make the width of top side { ft bottom sinus} inch, On the leg seam side of B mark the width fof bottom 4 bottom, minus 4 inch, Complete the draft of top side 2s shown, “Take out neh dress in the usual way For the undersides mark up from 9 * } of seat plus 1 inch, from o 0 13!, 4 of seat, add finch to the underside it the kee and 2 inches At the bottom. Draw Tine from #2 up through add 4 inches of body ise, and find top of scat piece 2 inelies from the seat Sear Measure up the seat to measure plus 2 inches, add on 3 inch of spring: at the bottom, carefull adjusting the size of kare and bottom, and see that boaly 1 ineh is allowed for making up, and complete ae illustrated, CAVALRY OVERALLS, Mark off the length of side and leg as illustrated. Mark from O 19.6 4 of seat, 0109 $5 sunraya a J of seat, square up Irom 9 and down from A to to is 4 of waist berond which 1 inch is added 1 inch iy ah0 aulded beyond O. "Tw ene ih found in thetcrmey Gay by! sieapur mar out} of knee plus 1 neh, and from B mark out 4 of Hotton plug ti inches. This wl give taira wikth to tha top of de: Tovked the run Of the le sear stedere fn runt 4 of the knoe, dnd measure fn fom B | of the bottom mitus f inch complete draft of top side as shown; take Ut F neh of drase Ja the ordinaey way be the underside ak up front 9 of the seat plus 1 chy and out from 912 of the seat dra Tine from 12 through *, rise top of underside 4 inches above the top of rants, To find the point sie seam Measure up the seat to mensne pis Sinchen, Make the ney of undersile'd Ease {> bottom kes. + inch and dcavs line as shown: Addr ineh tothe ley’ seam at knee of underside fo that the total size of knee avhen cat 1 ine fhoed Hhtn ensure dest. Mako ap bottorn fo measure plus 1 ine and complete draft. ay shown, SYSTEM FOR SCOTCH TREWS. The systein for eutting Seoteh irews is practie= ally the same as we have already. described for the Infantry ‘Trousece; but there is this differ enee to be noted they are out without a side sean, consequently the width of the knee is. ade justed entirely at the lege seam, with the result that a rather hollow leg seam results; this, how- le by manipulation, ever, is helped 5 far as po the Side seam being shruak at the Knee and the lower part of the lege manipulated in such a man nur asito set « hollow on the side seam (ar rather Where the side seam should bel, rather than the leg seam, THES Marl: off the length of side seam and leg se secing that the hotiom of the leg seam starts with astripe, This is important, otherwise the stripes ‘would not harmonise with those worn by” athe officers.* Tn Tike manner, the vertical stripe Should be arvanged 3} inches from the side at bottom. This Having been, done, mark across from 0 to 6, 4 of the set, O to 0 4 of the seat, Oto 12 | of the seat. The centre line of log is found at the bottom by marking in from the EM. ‘rease eelge of the material, + of the bottom plus Finch ¢ and a line is drawn’ from that point hy the point The fork and lenee lines heing drawn at Fight angles to this construction Tine rom 10 measure across } of waist and sprinyy out ise worn by the men up from the bottom, but officers start atthe bottom.to meet the crease edge at side as shown. Give a little spring above to provide for the necessary Size of body. In measuring off the size of knee, fieasure [roi the crease edge inwards ¥ knee plus 4 inch ; draw line {rom poiat 12 down to hottom of log: seam ; hh position of this latter point i placed J of the bottom loss } inch fram the centro cot struction line, To slope the top sides over the font take out one or 1Wo fishes as indicated, torte ing diroetly across the top bar of the chede and then seaming te edges together in this way the top lines of the check yo over in the instep, and then praceed to marke out the under side. To find the angle of the seat measure up from 9 to 7, 5 of the seat plus 1 inch} measure back [fom Qt 1h bal the seat: draw a fine from 12 throvsrh Ty oonneeting i with point 13h, and spring out a fitte at top. Now measure up waist to mesure plis 1 ineb, and see that the seat measures up to TP seat plus 2 inches; add on 1 inch at the bortom Of the ley sean at underside and complete as shown, ANOTHER METHOD, There are some euttérs who prefer to fallow’ a somewhat different course to the above, they cut out an ordinary pattern as. previously described for Infantry trousers, and they. streteh the material into shape, so that it follows the side sean to the top side; they then place the pattern font with the frst strip level with the bottom, snd the first vertical strip 34 inches from the! side seam, and they then armnge the top and under Side a0 as to dispense with the side seam, at least up as far as the hips, where it is permissible to take outa Vy so.as to adjust the warment to the slae of the wearer at waist. Take fishes out as viously described of the top side over the ine Step in order to get them to fit smigly at that particular part ; the fish being afterwards stoated She material belag: stout enough to allow or this HINTS ON MAKING It is customary to finish all trousers with «fob, pocket only ; itis, however, becoming more and more the custom io have them finished with ers packets, there heing less likelihood of the eon= tents Falling: out tltin in the fob pockets. When fob pockets are prelesred, however, it is generally desirable to finish ther with a flap, with bution and button hole, The silitsey regulations with Felurence to the sewing an of the stripe down side stam are that they shall be laid on, rather than Inserted with the sear; ths, however, only refers to the wider stripe, and not to the nacrow piping, such as fs used on the infantry. pattern, The plon followed for this being to cut 9 piece of seudet cloth about twice the width of piping ilesired plus two seams. Th the ease of the ine fantry, the size of piece of scarlet required would be about 1 inch witle, this is generally basted in with the ordinary seam, and by taking 4 incl, a66 THE cuTTER'S Scams width, In the event of two stripes bein Placed dovin the side, Hy the euetom to male them up on a separate ploes of cloth, and dhe heat resulta are obtoined when the cléth to be use Tor the stspes fs ext Ue with of Stipe Aesired,” the. eyes. serged toyether and then stitched (0 the stripe of sloth, the total width of the two Stripes. In this wav the stripes an be sivlea When secaredl thus to the trousers the Semi plan ould be followed ae sehen the wider matter to adjust ihiem to the trousers in the po ion desired down site seam, CAVALRY TROUSERS. Tt is customary to finish Cavalry Trousers with a foorstrap; itis very Important that these should be kept’ in the position ; the bites. should’ be well stayed. eloce. the. ‘strap huitions see put on the inside. ‘Phe first impore tant deal is to find the centre of the heel, which nhay generally be obtained by marking. it x inch from the eentee consteuetion fine of the system laid’ down in this work; Tom that point mark 3 inches on either sidey and that wil give the position of the frst sieap'bation. Its customary {0 put on two sirap. buttons; the slope of she hotiom having been carefully marked, puta piece of fining on the inside of the turn up and secure the strap. button through tt, before felling the tuts up ef the bettors. When this hea been eno, the linen may be adjusted to the outside inthe neatest possible style, so as to secure altogether, find then trousers: maybe finished, — In other details the usual rules are followed, and ag we presume this work sill he mostiy read by those Iho hive practical Knowledge of garment Taliea, ie enneceeae to enlarge upos the more ordinary. detaile of trouser makings fuffex it to say that silleary guements must be marily finished and must have = fair amount of form infused into them. PANTALOONS, Grxuna, Orrienns,—Pantaloons made from blue cloth, with af inch scarlet stripe dows the side seams, Heapoosrrees ann. Grvert Start.—Pant Toons of blue cloth, 1] inches scarlet stripe Houston Cavarey.—Pantaloons are made ‘of white leather, for full dress ; for undress, they are made of blue cloth with scarlet stripe. st Lire Gvarps. wide. axp Lire Guaxps.—Two stripes each 1 inches wide and 4 inch apart, with a searlet welt or piping hetweon the stripes Roya Horse Guasns, single stripe 23 inches wide. ‘Two stripes each rh inches Pantaloons have a Dracooys.—Pantaloons are made from bhte cloth with stripes of the some colour as worn, bby the men a} inches wide axn Dancoos Gurnvs.—One stripe finch wide, made of white cloth, Gri) Dracoox GusRDs—Two stripes finch wide with } inch apart Hussaes.—Pantatoons are made of blue cloth (ith crimson), with two Stripes, {inch wide, of How cloth 4 inch apart ry11t Hussars. Pantaloon: with Lwo white stripes } inch wide, 4 ineh Laxcens,—Pantaloons of bine, with inch wide, with j inch between. rptit Lancers. AM othey Rovan, Hoase Anruieny. Pantaloons of blue cloth, with 1} inch wide scarlet steipe down the Side, Two white stripes. 5.—Pantslooas are made of inch searlet stripe down side Rowan Escevee hhiue cloth, with» Foor Guanns.—Pantaloons of blue, with sear- let stripes down side seams, 2 inches wide. ray (except axp_ Hicmtaxn Bd tke ake ‘Sees fn Uy the eraboalier saa pune tvs the distance fron 430 & (Cie Bin, Tow tay the st odor Rilo the ge ion th tra B, a tes, llloniyg Hm, an inking i Fi Co D and D te meet a au Caeve ihe oie tine from D to 22 ale tevugh fan 2 to bottom Place thew Lm, oo om cone line ae Vike ent Linen a8 F F to 6 54 ile 1406 8 eden SSqancy doen from 22) go Ou Ln Re ale snd the abe te eae Hoe thru Co bat Te bon method finding the srmet se got tna to Bek eal te Bs Make F te toy bole & inhss, ond 8 ents ine to aye of ate Ne 2s, pe ing the fone ole ash 8 fhe apo “sting doe thi, the ret be dru 4 ich ted, tapering to 2) ches wide 43 M8. Fei @ 16 10) cmon of chest in, Fr sare Gow and lap the siesta he wth 1 tack 2D inca, and on a the bo Add 1 js tw 3 Sich dais ae ai, posh, bl, oe wil be gael the diego ‘The beh, ae abown by Diagram 2, 78 ot so ona ment than tice the mila, i, F ioshon, Uo gout. being neronigd along the tentie of the ar pt we jae les 0 06 and 05 11 ek 0100 6) m8 to, Dingo ram 1 1010.2 eben th fon Bo fron ich, Digs 1 140 8 pale 3 0 10 Be jm 858, and shape he topstanwe ling 1 neh of rd, Dede the vil of Back of 10, and. mark ‘of the length of elwre ae wea ving: own the lot she the Ueto pig ane aie the oneatsth of ch peek Simson fons Lich md oaaace fom 4 4 JO one fonrsh cheat pee 2 Veen mised deren frame ta ito, Diagram tan appr sl mous ean fe 38 i othe madam 1 The deere Bed wiluat Law, 40d (ho us uf B los desper tan the Srshed THE COLL, wkenounl'O 360d CH at Dogma Ti 2 dor nb the fe, a ath Thro aig otek Dinw Gnet or doing tik al 2 Unto hn foo Oy an copie ya the Sn, ches ana ‘edge ais tion othe sah aul bow iia Bltned alee wt Te ns acto metal, ad of the gttarn suc for he sexi rein