Cratcliffe

Razor Roof Area

New problems have been done across the grade range including
many easy lines adjacent to the popular top area and some
interesting bits and bobs in the woods.
Conditions
Be prepared to give all the problems listed a quick brush.

The rocks below and to the right of Razor Roof had some old documented problems
which were missed out of all the recent guides. These have been re-cleaned and some
new additions added at either end of the grade scale.

5
4

Low Slab
This slab might be better placed with the Top Boulders!
1. Low Slab Left Hand 5
From low on the left, climb upwards using a flake.
2. Low Slab Arch 5
Pull onto the blob and smear leftwards under the arching feature to finish high left on
a fluting.
3. Low slab Middle 4
Pull onto the blob and scratch up the slab.
4. Low Slab Right Hand 6a
On the right side of the slab, mantel upwards from a start with right hand in crack.
5. Low Slab Traverse 5+
Pull onto the blob and smear left and down onto a chipped hold and finish up Low Slab
Left Hand.

The Blob

9
7
8
10

11

A great piece of rock which is unfortunately slow to dry quick to re-green. It has easy
access to re-clean.
6. Slab in the Middle 5+
Between Razor Roof and the Blob Roof. Climb the centre of green slabby wall with an
awkward landing.
7. Crimps 5
Just right of the wide crack. Rock rightwards via rugosities.
8. The Blob 7a
From a sit start on the blob, and gain the lip. Top out slightly rightwards using the
crimp rail.
9. Green Lipped Muscle 7c
Sit start on a round undercut and big sidepull. Follow the rising lip leftwards to finish
up Crimps. Early crux then it gradually eases.
10. Thrutch Over 6c
Mantle the lip near a small seam, and thrutch into the runnel above.
11. Blob Over 6c
On the far right of the block. Blob over by means of a very tricky sloping mantle.

Serpico Area
Some offerings around the Serpico boulder might give the discerning low grade boulderer a few alternatives
close to the over used Cratcliffe Top area.
1. Serpico 6c
2. Munching Biscuits 5
An exciting problem which takes you close to the big drop. From the starting slot of Serpico make a spicy
span out right and pull into the juggy pothole feature.
3. Oatbix Flake 4
The wall to the right of the established boulder problem called Converted. From a sit start and using a nice
crisp finger flake to a rounded top out.
4. Diverted 3+
A juggy highball left of Converted.
Two small boulders on top of the crag behing Serpico have some nice easy problems.
5. Les and Len 6a
Lowball! Traverse the break L-R past Les and Len to a knacky rock up using an undercut.
6. Sams Game 3
The left side of the Les and Len arte from sitting.
7. Marcs Scheme 5
Sit start the right arte of Tim's Flute using the seam in the gully and a left hand crimp then make a tricky
mantle left of the arte.
8. Tims Flute 5
L-R traverse the flutings to slopers and then mantle it out on the gully side. Trickier than it looks.

Main Crag

Three obscure oldies re-cleaned.

1. Sleight of Hand 6b+
The route (E4 6a) has been cleaned (2014)
to give a good highball above a flat
landing.
The next two are on a shiny sloping ledge
right of Sleight of Hand. Check out you
Allen Williams Guide if unsure.
2. Problem 32 6b
Moves left from Problem 33. Currently
mossy.
3. Problem 33 6b
A good clean wall on slopey finger holds to
hidden jug.

Clean technique on Soap Dodger 6c

Main Crag
A LGP done and three new 7s added to the main crag circuit.
4. An Extra Pound of Musclin Man 8a
A tricky sit start into the original problem.
5. Pleasant Street 7a
On the base of the crag below the Bower is a long lip traversed left to
right with a tricky cut loose.
6. Pinchers Wall 7a+
Directly above the Grimoire/Manatee block on a ledge is a small steep
wall with open scooped pockets. Launch up the centre of the wall to a
finger rail off poor pinch and a dink.
7. Invasion of the Cider Woman Direct 7a
The crux lower section of the route with a new direct start added
makes a great highball above a good landing.

Crag Boulders/Woods
These problems might need a bit of looking for. Stick with it.
8. Bonfire of the Manatees 7a
The roof and arte right of Grimoire. Start in the back (one hand
on square block), climb the roof (no feet on sidewalls), turn the
lip with a pocket to gain ledge and finish up easier but high
slabby rib.
9. Thigh Master 6c
Just below the Sparrow/Watermelon block is steep hanging
prow. Climb this without the base blocks.
10. Quercus 7a
Up and right of the Cider Woman is a short buttress with an old
oak growing out of it. Climb the right arte making using a finger
crack on the left. This is tricky to gain and leave. E4 6b but
better as a highball with maybe 4 pads.
The squarish block just right of Quercus has a couple of decent
easy problems on more good rock.
11. Slot Ladder 6a
The side wall on slots from sitting.
12. Edgucation 6a+
The arte/wall right of Slot Ladder from sitting.

11

12

Hueco Wall Area

13. House of the Holey 7c
A sit start and direct finish to Chapel of Rest. Tack up the ramp (crack is in for feet) to the left hueco
and then push on direct to top out via a high fluting
14. Soaperstition 6b+
The steep wall on left side of gully to the immediate right of Hueco Wall. Start on crimps in break
and make a long reach up to the nice rib/arte feature. Finish by a mantle using a dish.
15. Soap Dodger 6c
An extension start into Soaperstition. Start on the narrow ledge above Hueco Wall and traverse the
break rightwards around the hanging nose and into Soaperstition to finish. Worth seeking out.
16. Death Arte 6c
The steep arte on the right of the gully above a truly appalling landing.