MJS New

Competitor
Information Pack
2016 season
Compiled by JD

When is my dog ready to compete?

Mike or Julie will be able to give you an idea when you'll be ready for competition. Chances
are if you have been given one of these packs then you are already ready!!
Ideally your dog needs to be fit, reasonably attentive and enthusiastic, and jumping
confidently at its full height, unless you are planning to enter an 'Any Size' class. It
should be able to complete all the equipment safely, including the weaves unless you
plan to enter a show where you know weaves won't be included in your classes.
Your dog should also be able to complete full length sequences of obstacles reasonably
fluently. Always remember that agility shows are tests of your dog's competence at the
sport. Be fair to your dog and don't compete until it has been trained to a decent level.

How do I find out about competitions?

Again ask Mike and Julie at training. They should be able to recommend a suitable local
show to start at. There are a list of shows for this year attached to this pack so that
you can have a look at what is recommended and where other members of the club will
be.
Once you have decided on a show you intend to compete at, you will need to get hold of a
schedule of classes, and an entry form. These can either be found on the Agilitynet
website, First Place processing.com. , L & N Show services or IShowservices.co.uk.
You will notice that agility competitions are run by a range of organisations. The Kennel
Club is the largest, others include Agility Addicts, the British Agility Association and
UK Agility. There are also various independent show organisers. Again the Agilitynet
web page will give you all of these show details in their calendar page.
Get your show entries off in good time. Many Open shows now close entries as much as
two months before the date of the show, and Limited shows fill up even earlier than
that, so forward planning is necessary. Once you miss the date then you cannot enter
unless the show stipulates that entries can be taken on the day. (Mainly BAA or UKA
shows. Kennel Club shows will not let you do this)

Do I need to get my dog registered?

You need Kennel Club registration numbers for all dogs that you plan to take along to a
Kennel Club show.
If your dog has a pedigree, the chances are that it is on the Kennel Club breed register. In
that case, you will already have a registration number for your dog.
If your dog is a Border Collie with an ISDS pedigree, you can apply for it to be added to the
Kennel Club breed register by downloading KC Form 9 (PDF file).
If your dog is a rescue or does not have papers, you can apply for it to be added to the
Kennel Club Obedience and Working Trials register by downloading KC Form 5 (PDF
file). Registrations can take up to 2 months.

Compiled by JD

How do I get my dog measured for Kennel Club

shows?
Getting your dog KC measured is trickier than getting measured for UKA, for instance. UKA
offers measuring at every show, KC doesn't.
From 1st January 2006, all new dogs competing at Kennel Club shows have had to
have their height measured before their first competition run. This applies to all heights of
dogs, whether Small, Medium or Large.
The Kennel Club has appointed a limited number of official measurers, spread across the
country, to carry out this process. Measuring sessions are held at some Kennel Club
shows, and occasionally other venues such as clubs and non-KC shows.
Before your dog can be measured, you need to:
buy an Agility Record Book from the KC;
fill in your dog's details, including KC registration number, and either
microchip number, tattoo number, or a photograph.
Your next step is to locate a measuring session in your area. The list of
official KC measurers is here on Agilitynet.
Dogs can be measured from 15 months of age, unless they are considered
by the KC measurers to be 'obviously Large' (well over 430 mm at the
withers) in which case they can be measured at a younger age. If
obviously Large, the requirement for a second measurement may be
struck out of the
record book. Small and Medium dogs all have to be measured twice, and a
third time if the
first and second measurements differ.

A Sample Kennel Club Entry Form

We'll look at a sample KC entry form here, though there is quite a bit of variation between
KC shows in form design and content. Entry forms for other organisations are broadly
similar.
Click on the image below to see a larger version in a new window.

Compiled by JD

1. Show name, venue and date

The above information is normally fairly prominent at the top of the entry form, often with a
club logo. Sometimes the closing date for the show (the date by which entries should
have been received, or at least postmarked) is also shown. Don't make the mistake of
sending your entry to the venue address!

2. The small print

Most entry forms will contain some instructions that you need to follow in order to
complete them correctly. It could for instance be reminding you that all dogs you bring
to the show (in this case) need to be KC registered. Or to use block capitals
throughout the form! Filling entry forms in incorrectly makes extra work for busy show
secretaries so help them by being careful.

3. Your dog's details

This is where you start filling the form in. The 'name of handler' should be you, the 'KC
registered name of dog' whatever posh name you applied to the KC for. 'KC or ATC
Reg. no' is your dog's KC registration number (ATC numbers are for entries from
abroad).
Fill in Breed, Dog/Bitch and Date of Birth sections in accordance with the details on your
registration form. And then the height. Your dog must be measured before it competes
for the first time at a KC show, even in an Any Size class. If at the time of entering the
show it hasn't been measured yet, put S(mall), M(edium) or L(arge) depending on
which height you think your dog will measure into.
It's worth mentioning at this point that any dogs you intend bringing to a KC show that
won't be competing still need to be entered on the entry form. They will be entered
'NFC' - Not For Competition - and must also be registered. The entry form above has a
tick box to the right of the Classes section.

4. Grade and classes

If this is your first show, you and your dog will usually be eligible for Grade 1, so '1' should
be entered in the Grade column.
There are some scenarios where you might not be eligible for Grade 1. For instance, you
might be running a dog belonging to someone else who has won out of Grade 1 or
even Grade 2 - in that case the dog must be entered as per the owner's eligibility. Or
you might in the past have owned a dog that won out of Elementary or even Starters again you and your dog won't then be eligible for Grade 1, the new version of
Elementary. If you are not sure then ask Mike or Julie!!!!
Assuming you are Grade 1, choose your classes according to the ones that include '1' in
the range of grades covered. So you might enter Grade 1 Jumping, Combined 1-3
Agility, Graded 1-4 Jumping. You don't write all that on the entry form, just the class
number that appears against each class on the schedule.
Some entry forms make your life easier by having tick boxes. And watch out for shows that
limit the number of classes you can enter, as you may in theory be eligible for 4
classes but be limited to 3 classes per dog.

Compiled by JD

5. Entries and fees

This is where you are invited to part with your hard-earned cash. Put in the appropriate
spaces how many individual classes you've entered, also if any pairs, teams, or if
you've booked camping. There are often additional entry forms for pairs, teams and
camping.
When you are booking your camping if you enter MJS Agility when it asks which group
you want to camp with then you will be put with the rest of the club who have entered
the show. We can support you and help out when needed then!!!
Add it all together to give you a grand total. Remember to include either a postage fee or
SAE, depending on which the club requests, for running orders and show information
to be sent to you. Make your cheque out exactly as requested on the entry form, and
post to the address shown for entries.
As a safety net in case your entry gets lost in the post, we suggest you get a Certificate of
Posting at your Post Office - they're free! Or you could consider online show entries
(not available for all shows. (L&N, ISS or First Place processing are the most common
ones for our area)

6. Owner and handler details

The owner details to enter are those of the owner of the dog as registered with the Kennel
Club. That will normally be identical with you the handler. If it isn't, you will need to fill
in the handler section with your details as well.

7. Declaration
Finally, you sign and date your entry to indicate that you agree to abide by the show
organisation's rules and won't bring a dog that has recently been exposed to
infectious or contagious diseases to the show. Read the small print so you know what
you're agreeing to! On a KC entry form, the declaration must be signed by the owner if
not the same person as the handler.

Checklist before posting

entry form - dog details filled in, classes filled in, fees, owner details, declaration signed.
cheque or postal order - to cover the total entry fees (including postage where
applicable), not to be postdated.
envelope made out to the correct address to send entries to, plus an SAE where
applicable.
a stamp and ideally a Certificate of Posting!

Compiled by JD

Or if you use an online processor (examples are listed on the

show list at the end of the pack) then you just need to
enter all of yours and dogs details once and then just tick
the classes that you are entering. IT IS MUST EASIER AND
QUICKER!! Plus it can be instantaneous so you are sure
that they receive your entry before the closing date!!

Compiled by JD

So you need to start getting ready for the

day of the show..

Things to take for yourself

Top of the list to take for yourself must be a pair of trainers with a good grip, e.g. astroturf
boots, hockey boots or fell running shoes. Nobody enjoys landing face down in the
mud (except those watching or videoing you do it!).
If it's likely to be wet and muddy, you may want to take a change of clothes and socks. If it's
going to be sunny, remember the sun protection cream, sunglasses and maybe a
baseball cap. Mind you, given this is the UK, whatever the weather forecast you're
probably as well taking waterproofs.
You'll want to take something to eat and drink at the show, or cash to spend at the food van
and the trade stands. If you're a vegetarian, be warned that most catering vans at
shows are of the bacon and burgers variety.
If you're on any medication, make sure you have that with you, and ideally also a mobile
phone so you can be contacted, or contact others, in an emergency.
Remember to pack the running orders that will have arrived a few days beforehand from the
show you're off to! And the directions to the show from the schedule, plus a map or sat
nav to guide you to the venue.
Finally, and most importantly, take a toilet roll! The standard of the "facilities" varies from
show to show, and loo rolls often run out ...

Things to take for your dog

Remember the things you're going to use to motivate your dog with - toys, dog treats.
Don't take toys or treats into the ring, but a glimpse of a favourite ball or lick of a favourite
tidbit may do wonders for your dog's concentration in the queue or around the rings.
Just don't squeak a ball or use a clicker near the rings as it might distract the dogs
currently working.
The boring and sensible stuff needs to be taken too, such as dog leads. Remember poo
bags (or nappy sacks). Shows can and do ask you to leave if you don't pick up after
your dog.
Pack your dog's water bowl and a bottle of water. Maybe some food to be given at the end
of the competition, if you have a long drive home.
Consider where the dog is going to spend its day. That will normally be in your car, either
on the back seat or in the boot. A nice comfortable fleece to lie on wouldn't go amiss.
And a towel to dry your dog off if it rains is also a good idea.

Compiled by JD

Other sensible stuff to include would be a basic first aid kit for your dog. Even if it's just
Vetwrap and a few dressing pads. You can buy kits at various petshops, or ask your
vet what she recommends and make up your own kit. Once you've had the kit for a
while, check expiry dates on antiseptic creams etc.

Keeping your car cool in warm weather

There are two ways to keep your car cool, and for best results you need to use both!
First of all, the car should be as well ventilated as possible. The ideal solution is a car cage
or a tailgate guard, to prevent your dog from escaping while allowing the boot to be
left fully open so your dog gets plenty of fresh air. Do a search on Google to find one
of the several manufacturers producing car cages and guards in the UK.
You can also get trellis vents to use on back windows, to allow them to be rolled down
partway without letting the dog get out (assuming the dog is loose in the main part of
the car). Or if you're lucky, the tailgate on your car might have an opening window.
Remember the need for security, though. Unfortunately the threat of dog thefts is a
constant problem, even at agility shows. Lock your car's doors, and padlock cages or
tailgate guards if you're leaving your boot open.
Secondly, use blankets, sheets or reflective sheeting to shade your mobile metal furnace!
Many of us start with what's to hand, such as a few white bedsheets. Better are the foiltype survival blankets sold at camping shops, or reflective sheeting sold at the trade
stands at many dog shows.
Don't try to get one huge sheet to cover the entire car. It's easier to put them on, get in and
out of the car while they're in place, and to fold them up afterwards if you have 2 or 3
smaller sheets.
Top tip: park your car with the bonnet facing south. Meaning that when you arrive at a show
in the morning, you should ideally park with the sun on your left as you drive into your
parking spot. That way your boot, with the dogs, will be facing north and stay cooler!

Keeping your dog cool in warm weather

The best way to keep your dog cool is to start with the information above and keep your car
cool!
Make sure your dog has fresh water constantly available. Dogs that have constant access
to water are far less likely to overheat than dogs who are only given a drink at
intervals, whenever the owner happens to remember.
There are reflective dog coats on the market. These are shaped like ordinary dog coats, and
are made of the reflective material often sold as car sunshades. They may well be of
benefit to some dogs, others don't like them. Remember there is no point putting a
reflective coat on an already hot dog - it'll simply keep the heat in!
Alternatively, you can make a 'wet coat' by sewing one or two towels together into a dog
coat shape, with velcro straps for holding it in place. Soak it in lots of water to cool
your dog off. As with the reflective coats, this seems to benefit some dogs more than
others. And should not be left on once it warms up as it'll have the opposite effect to
the one desired then.
On a very hot day, don't drag your dog around the show with you. Being out in the
sunshine, even with a reflective coat on, will soon prove very tiring. He'll be cooler and
fresher in your car if you've followed the above tips.

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log with water, air and shade!

So here it is, the day of the show has arrived!!!
To Feed or Not to Feed
Due to the risk of bloat, you need to make a decision whether or not to feed your dog before
you leave for the show. You are probably already careful (or you should be!) about
feeding your dog too soon before or after strenuous exercise such as agility training,
and the same applies to shows.
If you decide to feed your dog, it is best to give much less than normal, and to feed the dog
as soon as you get up, not just before leaving home (unless it's a very long drive).
If you decide against feeding your dog, you may wish to take a little food along to give the
dog before you come home at the end of the show, though not right after a run.
Be aware that the grain-based dry 'complete' foods swell in the stomach so are more likely
than other foods to cause a problem when given before or after strenuous exercise.

Arriving at the Show

Most shows follow a pattern such as this:
Show Opens: 7.30 am
Judge's Briefing: 8.15 am
Judging: 8.30 am
Check the Ring Information Sheet that most shows send out with your running orders, or
make available online beforehand. If you are running your dog in one or more of the
first classes in the rings, you will want to arrive at the show as soon after 7.30 as
possible. Yes, this does mean getting up very early instead of having a lie-in!
The reason for getting there early? So you've got time to find a nice place to park, exercise
the dogs, and get the car sheeted up if it's going to be hot. And then head off to the
rings to familiarise yourself with the layout, find the loos etc.
You can also walk any of your courses that are already open for walking.

Walking the Courses

Each course will be available to walk (so you know where you're going) for at least 5-10
minutes before judging begins.
If possible, pounce on an experienced member of your club for help. He or she will know
you and your dog and should be able to help you figure out a good handling strategy.
Be open to tips from other handlers that may give you a smoother run. But you know your
dog: don't be persuaded to do something you think won't work - try it out at training
first.
If you're completely on your own, don't despair. Remember, this is easier than training
where you probably don't get much of a chance to walk the course before running it.
Here, you can walk it as often as you like.
You should walk the course at least three times. Familiarise yourself with the basic layout,
then start looking for the places you need to change sides (behind or ahead of the
dog).

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You could also try shutting your eyes and checking if you can remember the whole course
(and mime your own movements) without peeking. Remember that unless your dog
goes at a very genteel pace you won't have time to read the numbers as you go round!

Running Orders and Announcements

The first announcements of the day (after the welcome message opening the show) will be
from the judges. In the briefing, they will state the course time (maximum time before
gaining time faults) for each course, and draw the attention of competitors to any
particular rules they wish to highlight.
During the day, there will be regular announcements on the tannoy to let competitors know
which classes are currently ready for walking or in the process of running, and where
those classes are up to. 'Calling up to 20', for instance, tells you that handlers with
running orders in the class up to that number should make their way to the ring with
their dogs.
Sometimes the tannoy system at a show isn't very clear, so remember it is your
responsibility to keep an eye on the rings and turn up at the right time. To help you
keep track of what is going on, there are often boards by each ring showing what
number the current class is calling to.
Do be there for your running order. You don't have to run in exact numerical order in most
classes, but you should aim to run within 10-20 dogs of your running order.
If you are going to be late for your class, let the caller (who ticks your name off on the class
list) know. Callers won't mind you running a little late as long as there is a good reason
for this, such as having to run in another ring, or walk another course. Alternatively,
ask if you can run a little early due to a foreseen clash later on.

Booking In and Queueing

When your turn has come to run, go to the ring with your dog, and take along your ring
card or a copy of your running orders.
At the ring, find the caller who is normally the person standing or sitting near the queue
holding a clipboard. Tell him or her what your name and running order is, and they will
tick you off the list. At this point you may also be given your ticket (for the scribe to
write down faults and time), though sometimes you get that nearer the front of the
queue.
Join the back of the queue. This is where you have a last chance to watch the course and
remember how you are planning to run your dog. You can also watch the handlers
running before you - some will be good, others will make mistakes that you're sure you
wouldn't! Try not to be tempted to change your running plans based on what you see
other people do, though.
This is also your chance to remind your dog (using toys and food if necessary) what a great
person you are to play with! But be aware of ring etiquette - avoid winding up other
dogs nearby in the queue. And never use a clicker by the ringside.
Give the handler and dog in front of you plenty of space as they go to the start line. Wait to
really wind your dog up with that favourite toy or piece of liver cake until they have
safely set off and aren't going to be disturbed by you!
Top tip: make sure both you and your dog are properly warmed up before competing. And
warm yourself and your dog down again afterwards to help avoid strains.

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10

On the Start line

This is probably the point where you'll wish you could make another quick dash for the
portaloo! But then again, perhaps you have nerves of steel (you don't? try slow, deep
breathing). Anyway, there are a few things you absolutely must remember:
Take off your dog's lead and leave it at the start. Do not carry it round the course in your
hand. A helper will move it to the end for you.
You can leave your dog's collar on, but only as long as it is a flat collar without any
dangly bits.
Ideally, leave your jacket, bumbag, etc, outside the ring. They will make running more
difficult.
Leave food or other training aids outside the ring. At KC shows you aren't allowed to carry
food in your hand, or give it to your dog, as you run your dog. In theory you could
carry a toy, or have treats in your pocket, as there is no specific rule against that, but it
wouldn't make you many friends.
WAIT! Don't start just because the judge is looking at you - make sure the scribe is ready. If
you start before he or she is ready, you will usually eliminated. The scribe will tell you
when to start by saying something like "In your own time" or "When you're ready".
Often they will add your name, which is a useful double check that they've got the
correct ticket!
A lot of handlers run from the start with their dogs. But if you have trained a good 'stay'
command, you have the option of 'leading out' and recalling your dog over the first few
obstacles. Don't be afraid to use this skill here in the ring.

During the Run

If you're lucky, everything will go well and the run will be over so fast you'll wonder where
those 30 or 40 seconds went!
Sometimes things don't go according to plan, though. You won't be the first or last that has
happened to. The most experienced of handlers get it wrong as well.
The most important thing to remember, if you go wrong on the course, is not to get
annoyed with your dog even if you think the mistake is the dog's fault. In the end,
who's trained the dog? - you! And who's handling the dog? - again, you! Stay calm and
do some quick thinking.
If you've gone the wrong way on the course, you'll have been eliminated. Most judges will
be happy for you to complete the course from the point where you went wrong.
Running past the start of the weaves, entering in the wrong place, or coming out early will
all get you faulted. If you continue without going back and correcting these mistakes,
you'll be eliminated. So there is some degree of tolerance of repeating the weaves until
they're right.
If your dog misses a contact, though, be polite and make sure you ask the judge whether
it's okay for you to repeat the obstacle before doing so. And then check again whether
the judge would like you to leave the ring immediately, or is willing to allow you to
complete the course.

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11

PLEASE REMEMBER THAT JUDGES DO NOT LIKE YOU TRAINING IN THE RING. SO IF
YOUR DOG MISSES A CONTACT DONT ASSUME THAT IT IS OK TO PUT THEM BACK
ON. You may be asked to leave the ring immediately afterwards.
Finally, one of the less usual ways of being eliminated during a run is ... well ... by the dog
'eliminating' in the ring. It's happened to most of us at some time. Take your dog on the
exercise area before each run!

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12

After the Run

Give yourself a pat on the back, and praise and reward your dog with treats or a good game
(even if he didn't listen and knocked all the poles down!). Reflect on your run, and
remember to celebrate all the things that have gone well - don't just dwell on any
mistakes.
Hopefully, you and your dog both enjoyed that - another pair of agility addicts in the
making!

p it fun! Competing in the ring is a new situation for

Was it worth it?
You may not get a rosette at your first show, or you may win out of Elementary! Whatever
happens, you've hopefully had fun and learned a lot, and your training will be a lot
more focused now you know just how important it is for your dog to turn left or right
on command, or enter the weaves correctly, or get the contact on the A-frame (we've
all had those perfect "if only" runs).
Now you may feel that that was an awful lot of trouble to go through for the dubious
pleasure of standing around in a field getting soaking wet or a bad case of sunstroke,
and being shown up by your excited dog. If that's you - oh dear, maybe you'd better
take up knitting instead!
Hopefully, though, you've now decided that you'd happily drive to the corners of the earth
in order to gain that elusive Clear Round Rosette. After all, it's got to be worth
spending lots of money on entry fees and petrol and getting up in the middle of the
night in order to get a nice piece of ribbon, hasn't it? If you're like the rest of us, the
answer to that will be a resounding "Yes"!

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Shows that MJS members / trainers

will either be at or recommend for 2016
Date of show

Closing date

25-28 March

15 Feb (FPP)

2-3 April
9-10 April

1 March (FPP)
(ISS)

22-24 April

14 March (FPP)

29April 1 May

26 March (FPP)

27-29 May

(FPP)

31 May 3
June
11-12 June

(ISS)
(L&N)

18-19 June
25-26 June
2-3 July
8-10 July

(ISS)
(L&N)

15-17 July
16-17 July
22-24 July

(FPP)

29-31 July

(ISS)

6-7 August
11-14 August

(ISS)

16-21 August
26-29 August

(ISS)

2-4 Sept

(ISS)

17 Sept
23-25 Sept

(ISS)
(FPP)

24-25 Sept

(ISS)

7-9 Oct

(FPP)

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Dog Vegas
Winterton
Agility Nuts, Notts
Spring at
Shuttleworth,
Biggleswade
Lincoln Agility
Enthusiasts,
Grange-de-lings
Dog Vegas,
Matlock
Dog Vegas,
Matlock
JDA, Biggleswade

Yes

Other
members at
the show??
Yes

Yes
Yes

Yes
Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Godmanchester,
Ramsey
North Derbyshire,
Southwell
Racecourse
Milton Keynes
Wellingborough
Just Dogs Live,
Peterborough
Empingham,
Grantham
Barnard Castle
Dog Vegas,
Matlock
Rushden/Barking
Mad, Woodnewton
Redgates
KCIF, Rockingham
Castle
DINAS, Ipswich
Summer agility
show
Letchworth,
Huntingdon
Racecourse
Trent Park, Enfield
Dog Vegas,
Southwell
racecourse
Suffolk 5 Rivers,
Ipswich
Dog Vegas,
Ramsey.

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes
Yes
Yes

Yes
Yes
Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes
Yes

Yes
Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes
Yes

Yes

Yes
Yes

Yes
Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes
Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Show and venue

Camping??

14

FPP= First Place processing

L&N = L&N show services
ISS= IShow services

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