A memorable Tilla Jogian hike

By

Shaikh Muhammad Ali

23rd January 2016

The last article I wrote was on 14th June 2014 which was on a trip to Taxila and Khanpur Dam. As
mentioned in my last article, my reflux disorder (GERD) continued to strike over and over again and I
had to visit a doctor in Karachi for consultation. I had to undergo Endoscopy again and new drugs
were prescribed to me. Although, I religiously took the medicines but could not find relief. The
problem of vomiting became so severe that I started to lose my marbles.
Talked with my friends again in Karachi who found me a surgeon who had returned from the USA a
few years ago and was doing this surgery to rectify the GERD. This surgery was called Nissen
Fundoplication and was not being conducted in Islamabad. Ultimately, I took an appointment with Dr.
Abid Jamal and flew to Karachi on 11th August 2014. The doctor gave me an appointment after five
days and I came under the knife on 16th August 2015.
Thanks to the advancement in Medical technology, my abdomen was not opened and only five
incisions were given in my stomach and my duodenum was operated upon through laparoscopic
surgery. The surgery took almost 3.5 hours and I was unconscious for another two hours after the
operation. Gosh, it was painful and it took almost 3 months for the pain to subside. I went through so
much pain during this disease for almost a year thus the pain after the operation became bearable.
My life pattern had changed during this entire episode. I stopped hiking, visiting places, my travels
and tours. I stopped reading and writing my articles. My work, my social life, my family life suffered
and there seemed to be no end to my suffering. After this surgery, I am almost back from the dead and
I could not stop thanking God enough that he has granted me a new lease on life. I must thank my
parents, my sisters, my wife, my children and some very close colleagues and friends who helped me
come back and supported me all the way.
Islamabad, strangely is experiencing an extremely cold winter this year around. It is about 3 Degrees
Celcius and it is extremely cold. Even the heater is not providing the warmth which it is expected to.
We cannot just wait to have spring again which would bring new life to the eco system around.
Well, I am here again and writing my new article after a hiatus of 1.5 years. I will try to pick up the
threads from where I left and will write about the Tilla Jogian hike which we undertook on 15th
December, 2012.
This is what Wikipedia writes about Tilla Jogian:
Tilla Jogian (in Punjabi Urdu: ) is the highest peak in the Eastern Salt Range in
Punjab, Pakistan. At 975 meters (3,200 ft) above sea level, it is about 25 km to the west of Jhelum city
and 10 km west of the model village of Khukha. The view from the top of Tilla is highly rewarding.

Rohtas, Pakistan Fort is located to the east of Tilla Jogian at a distance of about 7 km from Dina, a
rapidly expanding town on the Grand Trunk Road 1.
LOCATION

Tilla Jogian can be seen from districts of Mandi Bahauddin, Gujrat, Jhelum and Chakwal. It is
situated on a commanding place near the Jhelum River. From its height of 3,200 feet, you can
see a panorama unparalleled in Pakistan.
HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE

For thousands of years it was a place of sun worship for the Hindus because the sun can be seen
here earlier and sets here later due to its height. It became a place of worship for Hindus. Tilla
Jogian in Punjabi means the Hill of Saints. This is where the Kanphata Jogis, who pierced their
earlobes and were an order founded by Guru Gorakhnath have left behind a monastery.
MENTION IN LITERATURE

Tilla Jogian also finds mention in the epic love poem Heer Ranjha of Waris Shah. Ranjha, the
story's protagonist, who when spending his time on the rebound, sublimating his love and
passion in the spiritual world, came here for consolation and got his ears ringed here as was the
tradition of Guru Goraknath's followers.
Tilla Jogian comprises a complex of Hindu mandirs housing at least three baths and a network
of waterworks with at least two minor dams. There are number of ways to reach at the top: One
from Rohtas Fort side and the other from Sanghoi, the Jhelum River side.
The Mughal Emperor Jahangir visited this place many times and mentions this in his memoirs.
For the Sikh Punjabis there is also another significance to Tilla Jogian as Guru Nanak Dev ji,
the founder of Sikhism is said to have spent 40 days in quiet seclusion at Tilla Jogian. The Sikhs
during the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh made a stone pond here in his memory. The British
made a road and a pond here for water.
Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif visited Tilla Jogian and did some protective work for the safety of
its pristine beauty2.
Back to the main story:
As usual, I got up at 5:30 a.m. For Fajr prayers. Woke up Adil (my older son) and Mohsin (my
younger one) around 6:00 a.m. Had breakfast at home while Rizwan Khan (my office colleague)
1
2

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilla_Jogian
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilla_Jogian

reached here by 7:10 a.m. We reached the venue i.e. Rahat Bakery in Blue Area @7:30 a.m. where
about 5-6 hikers were already present.

(Meeting the other hikers near Rahat Bakery, Blue Area, Islamabad)
Finally, till 8:30 a.m., a total 12 of us had gathered. We embarked on our journey while picking 4
hikers from Fazaia housing society and other stops enroute the way, reaching the base camp close to a
village called Domail around 10 minutes to 11:00 a.m.

(The team is ready to scale the Tilla Jogian top)

We started the hike at 11:00 a.m. sharp and reached the peak by 2:30 p.m. We enjoyed the views on
our way to the top.

(The views while ascending were amazing)

The ruins of the temples were marvelous but not well kept.

(The writer along with his two young guns)

The pond made in memory of Maharaja Ranjit Sigh was huge but there was very little water in it.

(The pond built in memory of Maharaja Ranjit Singh)

Eight of the Gurus of the Sikh religion had visited this place and had spent some time here in solitude
and prayer. This was inscribed at one of the walls at the site.

(The inscription proving that 8 Gurus of the Sikh lineage were here)

Another inscription at one of the walls.

(Another inscription at the walls)

We enjoyed tea and snacks along with the wonderful company of the Asian Study Group (ASG)
members.

(The ASG group enjoying tea and snacks at the top)

Some more pictures at the top.

(The hikers posing at one of the mandirs)

(A panoramic view at the back)

(Another memorable picture at the top)

(A brief history of Tilla Jogian by TDCP)

(A parting group photo before the descend)

We took a lot of pictures and retreated by 3:15 p.m. reaching the coaster by 5:30 p.m. We missed
Zuhr, Asr, & Maghrib prayers all in a row.
We reached Rahat bakery by 8:30 p.m. and home by 8:45 p.m. Had a warm bath, offered all the Qaza
prayers. Later prayed the Isha and after having an early dinner, retired to bed by 9:30 p.m. with
another feather in the cap.
Parting Note:
Secrets spoil in open air; they lose their potency, so they are sealed away. Once the secret is
locked in a safe, the subject, in essence, never gets to exercise the ancient right to face ones
accuser.

Shaikh Muhammed Ali

The Wandering Dervish
E-mail: dushkashaikh@gmail.com
Cell: +00-92-321-5072996
Saturday, 13th Rabi ul Thani, 1437 H
23rd January 2016, 18:20 p.m. (PST)