March 1979 45p (USA & Canada $2.00) HOBBY MAGAZINEMODELLERS! SAVE £££'s wit Gears, pulleys, motors, power units, mechanical and electrical components ‘We're aur you wl find the items eatured hereof intrest, but to gat a mora comprehensive view of our range of products, visit our shop at §2 TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD, LONDON, W.1 (Open am fo 8 pm Monday o Saturday inclusive). Ths is truly a Mooca for Modelers, with afar-ranging ane continually changing selection of useful and fascinating items for the hobbyist, experimenter an lonthusiast, Barclaycard and Access accepted. Any orders over JS in value sent past free in U.K. All Mail Orders to: PROOPS BROS. LTD., Dept. MM, The Hyde Industrial Estate, Edgware Road, London NWS 64JS. Tol: 01-205 8006. Out Mail Order services fast anc ralable, and we give special attention to the reautements of Schools, Colleges, Universities and Modeling Societies, * GEAR SET #220/240 Volt -—=/ A.C. Motor £1.75 ow v0 & Gearbox E £5 p&p 90p 1 ‘Shaded ale type meron, Gearbox with ste goers. * PULLEY SET £1.75 can os40 29 Volt 2.5A. D.C. Motor £2.50 pltp GOP i di Bt a * MODEL MOTOR 12v. "| * serve noe pens se | ¢MULTITESTER * AC/DC POWER UNIT £4.95 pep 25p atl for dozens fae round tha moses beh Covers AC VOLTS Gig 190 so) S000 * SOLDERING IRONS 12 VOLT 18 wan £2.95 np 20 saVGE EMR es * PRECISION SCREWDRIVER KIT £2.40 pap 2p SUELECTRIC CLOCK 3 ele gee se ee sone *« MOIRE PATTERNS in colours! © MAKE SCENERY, TRACKSIDE BUILDINGS wy NS ws meee PONSTYRENE ** ‘oMBUTTER YAY once £3.50 cor 6.308 £1.95 * FRESNEL LENSES two for £1.70 ar vis 2% SOP a a danse» soe iT mes thn eT SAVE MORE! [ORDER FIVE PACKS AND WE'LL SEND THEM POST FREEU.! Model Mechanics, March 1979hiCS CONTENTS. Editor's Chat Tether Car Racing — Wheels, Tyres & new design, Making a Start in Steam — John Wheeler discusses ‘the construction of an oscillating engit The Development of the railway steam locomotive — VOLUME 1 Number 2 MARCH 1979 Martin Evans leads up to a locomotive construction article Tools of the Trade — Unimat S.L. ~ a review by Rex Tingey gre 8 Southern 2647 er Class Electric R/C motor car racing — Jim King’s Tre Engineering from sorateh — 48th Model Engine Soldering — by Les Bryant MM Club Report rsructions or Hero's Erin “This periodical is gold subject to the following conditions: that it shall not, without the wntlen consent of the publishers be lent, racold, hired-out or otherwise disposed of by way of Trade ala prige In exoess of ins recommended maximum price and that it shall not be lent, resold, hired-out or otherwise ‘disposed ‘of in a mutated Condition, or in any unauthorised cover by way of Trade; or affixed o or as part of any publication of advertising, literary or pictorial matter whatsoever. ‘Second-class postage rates paid al New York, U.S.A, Registered at the Post Office for transmission by Canadian Post. American enquiries regarding news stand sales ‘and advertising should be sent to MODEL MECHANICS, Eastern Naws Distabutors ino., 111 Eighth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10011, USA Enquiries regarding Hobby Shop Sales to Bill Dean Books Ltd, 166-41, Powell's Cove Boulevard, Whitestone, New York 11387, U.S.A, Telepnone: (212) 767-6832. Made! & Allied Publications Ltd Editorial and Advertisement Offices: P.O. Box 35, Hemal Hempstead, Herts, HPI TEE Tel: Homol Hompstead ~ Editorial) Advertising 41221 ® f {Also published by MAP: Model Engineer, Aeromodeller; Mode! Boats; Model Railways: Scale Models; Military Modalling; Woodworker, Model Mechanics, March 1979 The Workshop — Building a Harmonograph Introduction to model railways — Cyril Freezer,editor of “Model Reilways',, ‘Where will it go” Building a replica of Hero's Engine — by Basil Harley by ‘Dickie’ Laidlaw-Dickson jels — Keighley & Worth Valley asic course by Alan Carter In this issue — measurement Exhibition — ‘The Duke of Edinburgh Challenge Trophy winner, plus a selection of other models. ‘The Editor is pleased to consider con. tributions for" publication In. “Model Mechanies”. Manuscripts should be ‘accompanied if possible by illustrations and. should also have” a. stamped Addressed envelope for thelr return if Unsuitable, While every care is taken, no responsibility can be accepted for un. Sollelted manuscripts, photograph, art work, ete ‘Subscription department: Remittances to Model & Allied Publica tions Ltd, P.0. Box 35, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HPT 1EE (Subecrip. tion Queries Tel: 0442 51740), Subscription Rate: £7.50 ($15.00), Radio Control Models & Electronics, ‘Gem Craft; Clocks. nA. J. REEVES & CO (Birmingham) LTD Incorporating DICK SIMMONDS & COMPANY HOLLY LANE, MARSTON GREEN, BIRMINGHAM, B377AW _Tel: 021779 6831-2-3 DID YOU KNOW THAT WE CARRY 30 TONS OF CASTINGS IN GUNIMETAL, IRON, ALUMINIUM AND NICKEL SILVER FOR THE FOLLOWING LOCOMOTIVE, STATIONARY AND TRACTION ENGINES! In3%" Gauge: Tich (2 versions), Juliet (2 versions), Netta, Vera, Britannia, Rob Roy, Mabel, Canterbury Lamb, Titfield Thunderbolt, Doris, Princess 'Merina, Rodean, Jubilee, Firefly, Lickham Hall, 1000 Class, Country Carlow, Virginia, B.R Standard Cl 5, Caribou, Buffalo, Jeanie Deans, Molly, Hielan Lassie, Masie, Bantam Cock, Mona, Aico Mountaineer, Derby Class 4 and Greene King, In5" Gauge: Netta, Rail Motor, Metro, Fury, Princess of Wales, Jersey Lily, Immingham, Robinsons 2-8-0, Maid of Kent, Springbok, Pansy, Speedy, Simplex, Nigel Gresley, Boxhill, Stirling Single, Reeves 0-6-0. G.W.R. Sixx Cl, Torquay Manor, Fury, Royal Engineer, Asia, Ajax, Achilles and Kings Own. In7%" Gauge: Highlander, Bridget, G.W.R. King George V, Holmside, Hercules and Jessie. Traction Engines: 1" Sc""Mini” T.€., 1%" Sc““Allchin”, and the 2° Se Burrell “Thetford Town”. Marshall 14" Portable. Stationary Engines: M.E, Beam Engine, Heinrici Hot Air Engine, Vulcan Beam Engine, “’Mary" Beam Engine, Perseus, Warrior, Trojan, Unicorn, Reeves Monarch, Master Range of Oscillating Engines, Horizontal, Vertical and Hor Opposed, and Popular Vertical, Double Tangye, Diagonal Paddle Engine, and the Centaur Gas/ Petrol Engine, Plus: Many sets of castings for workshop equipment, backed up by the largest selection of materials in Copper, Stainless Steel, Cast Iron, Monel Metal, Brass, Phosphor Bronze, Nuts, Screws, Bolts and Rivets specially ‘stocked for the Model Engineer in the World, COMPREHENSIVE CATALOGUE 50p 271 Years of Model Railways Send for your eopy NOW! Sp post free, Overseas post extra, Airmallif requested, collections have had their roots in our secondhand department. Model Railways, today second only in popularity to Angling, is regarded by some as a modern hobby but nothing can be further from the truth, Even we are a youthful firm in comparison with Mérklin’s 120 years (they celebrated their centenary in 19591). However, when we first started in 1957 solid plastic or metal tracks were just beginning to give way to ‘'see-through sleepers”. Homby Dublo and Triang were in process of embarking on a duel-to-death (which Triang eventually won only to secumb itself a few years later to be replaced by the much more successful contemporary Dunby-Combex-Marx brand of Hornby). Accuracy of scale was often suspect and scenery almost always non existant — how different from now. Today we expect almost an extreme of realism while the advent of tomorrow's computer control (""Tomorrow?” itis so close itis almost “Tonight!” leaves very little to the imagination. = and for the Modeller with an eye for a Bargain — “ALTOGETHER NOW” Instruction, Advice, Know-how Call it what you will, the help of a very knowledgeable staff is needed to guide you through the complexities of all the opportunities available for your future enjoyment. Our staff pay regular visits 10, the factories both at home and in Germany and are trained to Fleischmann Advanced Course Standards. Frattonisin WITH CONFIDENCE — or use our unique “Altogether Now” trading system. FRATTON BARGAIN SHOP 165-173 FRATTON ROAD PORTSMOUTH PO1 SET Telephone (0705) 27117 Hours: 9—6 (8 Fri.) Open Lunch Hours This ig & unique, method of trading: using the Model Rahway. ‘Magazines 9g out “Catalogs. Wo wil honour (subject to boing In ‘toGk] any price quoted inthe current (March issues oni. Why send to several supplers when one cheque will do? With @ credit card a ‘single phone call gts immediate attention. IMPORTANT EXCEPTION. To avoid hoax advortsing new releases ‘and. goode marked at los then 8% not above manuracture's trade Brice wil not bs supplied This offer is not automatic so must be claimed — moray state itoms, prices, magazine and pages they appesr Postage. Overseas at cost. Iniend 40p or pos free over £25. All orders ‘ispatched by return of post refunds for tems not actually in stock at. ‘moment of processing) Ample Free Parking ‘Six Day Week 72 Model Mechanics, March 1979The RODNEY PLUS Vertical Milling and Drilling Machine 8 Spindle Speeds Robust % h.p. motor Totally enclosed drive Sealed ballraces throughout Price £595 H.P. arranged Capacity: Throat Depth ‘Max height under spindle ‘Max. height under cutter Table size Longitudinal Travel Cross Travel Indexes in -o01" All Directions No. 2 Morse Taper Spindle Accepts “Myford’ collets ‘and nose cap Height 66” approx. Width 30° Depth 22" « or vcore) BE 18 x 4%" 10° 4%" TEW MACHINERY LIMITED CHURCH STREET, COGENHOE, NORTHAMPTON NEW TOOLS DISPATCHED BY RETURN POST FROM OUR LARGE STOCKS We welcome ACCESS, BARCLAYCARD customers — please quate your number. All prioesinclue VAT. UK orders post ree. Overseas ordors post xt Serew cutting and setting gauge for usein latho OurPrise £1.00 e0ch M.E. Taps. One each size, #347, F441, 4 x40 TPL ur Pice £2.60 for five MLE. Dlos t suit above tps 3 standard diameter. ur Price £8.00 or five Mitutoy Vernier Calipor. Capacity 6". Reading Engoish ond metre: Very clear to read, Pear chrome ish ‘Our Price £17.00 oach Sets Small Steal G Cramp. Sots of throo with largest capacity Ti" Sultable forthe model make. Our Price £1250 set Endmills. Four flute with straight shank which can be held in 3 jaw lathe chuck for light ming. SPECIAL OFFER: One each Size} ye 1 and#” ~ £620 the four. Slot Drils. Two flute for millag sits, etc, these can be fod ht In shafes when cuttng keyways, etc, cne each size eek fe and «— £5.60the four. Live Revolving) lathe centres No. 2M.T. Our Price£14.00 each Set of 12 lathe tools, 18% high speed steel — size of shank sa, All sutable for use with Myford four way too! post. One feech FH roughing, ext serew cutng. RH facing, RH krife, LM facing, LH knfo, parting, nt seroweutting, int. boring int. under ‘ound nose font roughing, roughing tol _Out Pree get setof 2 £18.60 Model Mechanics, March 1979 Telephone: 0604 891050 Drill Stands Poiystyeno, Fraction stands Jy” 3" 29 drils 66p each ‘Number stands 1-60 for 60 rile 66p each Best Quality Centre Drills. British made, one of each size reas ‘Gur Price £1.80 or three High: Scunre ool Bite Maly” Grade Sect Square fT engin we i 2 de & Price each 3p Rp Mp Tp Sp Dulll Grinding Attachment for fost and accurate sharpening of ills sizes F—'clameter, The jig has Included angles Suitable for verous materials for use with bench grinder. Baxed compete with ful and clear instructions. Our Price £5.10, Sots Tungsten Carbide {square lathe tools alroady ground to shope and ready Tor general Use, one each round nose facing, straight round nese fishing, bar turning, parting oo. ‘Our rice soto four tools £5.25 H.S.S. Metal Slitting Saws — All 1" Boro Suitabe for use on aiathe Dares saunter oir E By Ae WOE cue ir terete ntl pe ea Price 90 90 E70 A. E. KING coos) LTD 3 CENTRAL PARADE, STATION ROAD SIDCUP, KENT DA157DL TELEPHONE: 01-300 1342 Hos Aiiog fos thao fs.35 3ROAD & RAIL 330 Marsh Lane, Erdington, Birmingham B23 6JD Phone 021-382 3481 Hornby service, spares & repairs. Mainline, Lima, Airfix, Romford, Ratio, Peco, Hammant & Morgan Ks kits. Badger Airbrushes, Building kits, Brick Papers, Linka kits, Scenic materials. Also, LGB loco’s, rolling stock & track. Access & Barclaycard Open every day except ‘Sunday 9.30-6.30 p.m. Car park outside shop. ae ‘SPAGHETTY JUNCTION 24 hour Mail order service ring 021-373 5945 The LINSAW will cut materials other saws won't even scratch HARDENED & HIGH SPEED STEEL “TUNGSTEN » STELLITE* HISPEED GLASS * PORCELAIN® STEEL MASONRY @ TUNGSTEN SEND. MR./MAS, EXPO DRILLS the miniature tools that do a man-sized job! eal power, al versatility, real safety — compact, 96y-10-U80 British made ‘Expo 12.volt dls give you top performance at minienum cost for model making, ‘electrons, lapiary, protorype development or small scale production Home & Export Trade enquires ‘welcome Carmen tomes £9.79 Ce ome re al ced oc atrccarar rrr ener) carr eee tt a eee red eer eee ee aa tr tango of power tools and accessories or write direct t0 Serene EXPO ExPo(DRILLS)LTD Unit 10, Sustanum Works, Titchfield, Hants, Telephone: 05284-41752 120/122 DRAKE STREET - ROCHDALE ° LANCS. Telephone: Rochdale 45657 Shop Hours: Mom, Thurs, 2,305.30; Fr. 9.30~7.30; Sat. 9305.00 Model Engineer Supplies Aaa Se Teste CATALOGUE 69 ‘OVERSEAS £10) MAIL ORDER BY RETURN Model Mechanics, March 1979 a #—Edctor The newcomer to the model making fraternity we will rely on contributors explaining any may be justifiably anxious to produce his or her dangers in their relevant articles, Just consider, first effort in as short a time as possible to prove for example, the potential hazards of hand tools that the capabilities are there. As encouragement (using files without handles), machine tools Fight from the start is an obvious necessity, this (unguarded end mill for example), electricity. attitude is fully understandable. And even if we adhesives (sticking fingers together or wors: tend to view our creations through rose-tinted welding (fumes), brazing (burns from. pickling glasses — which never seem to be worn by acid) — there is hardly a practice which does not friends, relatives and competition judges — that have some possible danger, however slight. first model should be a stepping stone to greater © But the problems can all be quite easily efforts. overcome by giving thought to what you are We all differ slightly in our approach to model doing or about to do, and if you must hurry that engineering. Some of us may wish to have a job, by not producing speed at the expense of working model quickly without too much regard safety. There are, of course, basic rules which to the standard of workmanship. Others build for should be followed by anyone in a workshop. the love of building alone and the final job serves Although we are not restricted by the Health and only to remind them of the happy hours spent at Safety at work Act which lays down certain the bench — it may also be, in all probabilities, 2 guidelines _in industry, we do still have a competition winner. For the reason that we do responsibility to our’ friends, relatives and differ, it is difficult to suggest to the beginner just ourselves. In the same way that a welder would what sort of model he should build. Practice is not dream of using a torch without protecting his necessary in the basic arts of engineering, filing, eyes, then the model engineer must realise that using hand and machine tools, etc. But few he is not immune from the effects of negligence People would wish to employ the same methods simply because he is an amateur. Of ‘training used by apprentices in industry. Protection of the eyes is one of the most 1 well remember my own 16 weeks of basic filing important of all safety precautions. The cost of exercises and cannot readily suggest such a goggles is negligible when one considers what disagreeable, to me anyway, introduction to what one is paying for and they should be one of your is after all a leisure activity irst_ purchases. Use them whenever metal or There is no doubt that with care and patience a other harmful substances are flying around, 1 fine model can be turned out by the rawest know steel can usually be removed from the eye recruit — it may take him a long time and he may — often painlessly — but the after effects can be have to ask many questions — but he will do it. |__ with you for the rest of your life. Use protective have seen a 3%inch gauge Britannia locomotive, clothing that is adequate for the job being which is not exactly recommended as a performed. Ordinary working clothes are fine for beginner's model, beautifully finished as a first normal bench work, but for machine tools it is time effort, Keith Wilson, in describing his better to obtain modern overalls which have no Bulldog locomotive for Model Engineer, advised loose bits to catch in the inexperienced not to try it, not because of the please don’t I ulties of construction, but simply because with any form of acid there are special aprons the true-to-scale design that Keith is attempting and gloves available. When brazing or welding, to portray would result in slow progress which to remember, protection to the body from spatter, the beginner is far from encouraging. The to the eyes from glare, and face from ultra-violet experienced model engineer will be familiar with rays is essential. Wear good protective shoes or the pitfalls and is less likely to be discouraged by boots, it’s very easy to knock heavy objects off hot seeing much advancement after several _ the bench. hours in the workshop Make sure tools are in good condition, this is So it is necessary to know yourself. Quite a few particularly important for grinding wheels which model builders take on more than one model at a develop all manner of nasty habits if allowed to time so that if one becomes a little slow or less deteriorate. Keep any cloth away from rotating rewarding for a time they can continue with \ery while it is in motion — paper can tear but another until inspiration returns. And it will, cloth won't. And even if you are unharmed, the There is another aspect of model engineering chances are that your lathe, for example, won't be. related to the desire to work quickly. | refer to the, Ventilation is another must when welding, brazing, need for safety. It is unlikely that we will publish spraying paint, or perhaps using certain adhesives @ specific article on workshop safety for several and solvents, feasons. Firstly, of course, many readers tend to _Alll really, a: object to articles which appear to lecture on you act. I'd like to feel that you are g Subjects which, after all, is mainly associated reading Model Mechanics for a long time. with common ‘sense. Secondly, we would not wish to create the impression that the workshop is a place to be feared, rather than respected, particularly when certain hazards apply only with particular processes or machinery which may never be used. Thirdly, the ways in which injuries may be sustained in the workshop are so varied that one article could not cover the subject, and | said, common sense. Think before ing to be Editorial Director R. G. MOULTON Editor LES PORTER Associate Editor COLIN RATTRAY Managing Director GOSPATRIC HOME Group Advertisement Manager M. GRAY Mode! Mechanics, March 1979Tether Car Racing ‘OUR NEXT STEP on from ‘Tyro! is to consider a car with a metal body. The conventional. racing or sports, car body is full of compound curves \i.e. the surface is curved in more than ‘one direction at once). These are)not easy for the beginner to produce, and as | feel it unwise to over-tax the skills, of those who are just learning how to handle metals, | had a quick look through the reference books for designs which consist largely of flat surfaces connected by simple curves. The pre-war M.G.s are, of course, examples which spring readily to mind, and that stark sports car, the H.R.G, added a few ideas. In preparing new designs, | am not anticipating that many builders will ‘wish to construct each as it appears. | hope that each new one will attract @ few new enthusiasts who will feel that the design is to their liking and the techniques involved are within thelr capabilities. It is my intention to ‘add a few new features each time, thus extending the range of workshop operation required. My real intention is to get prospective car modellers thinking about making a working model of their favourite car, perhaps incorporating a few of the features and methods illustrated in this series. | find that | am always learning new tricks as | go. You will do the same. If you feel that any of your ideas will help others, please let us know and we shall be pleased to pass them on 76 This design, then, includes a number of the basic features of Tyro’, adapted as necessary, with the addition of the metal body. General Design Features The chassis is again a sheet aluminium pan, with flanged sides, but has a quite different plan form. Direct drive from a 1%cc diesel engine is again shown, but any similar engine can be used, A much simplified form of engine mounting can be used this time, as the increased depth of body allows the engine to be installed vertically, hidden under the ‘tonneau’ beind the driver's seet area, This means that the engine is not mounted on the centte line of the car, but | don’t feel that this is too important. The offside wheel again idles on its own stub axle by Geoff Sheppard (I did consider driving both rear wheels through a gear train this time, but this is not easy to achieve cheaply and simply s0 I'll save that until later. The front axle is a simple beam, a: befits this type of car, with no attempt to add springing at this stage (the majority of high speed tether cars used to run with little or no springing on either axle). The fuel tank and cut-off (of the ‘pipe strangler’ type) are as on Tyto. This rolling chassis is surmounted by a body made in one piece from sheet aluminium, bent to shape. The front is closed by a dummy radiator shell beaten to shape from sheet brass or copper while a dummy slab fuel tank can be fitted to the rear to disguise the joint in the aluminium. Wheels are of the two-piece type with the bearings sandwiched between for all but the driving wheel ‘Model Mechanics, March 1979Model Mechanics, Marck8 Model Mechanics, March 1979.Wheel The S.M.R.U. wheels lave a tle to be desired in that they run on very small diameter plain bearings. In addition, itis rot possible to strip and re-assemble the rnon-driven wheels with ease, so that renewing @ tyre or bearing bush is difficult, The driving wheels, which of ‘course doas not need its own bearing as it clasps on to the engine crankshaft, can be split into two for the removal ofthe tyre. If this is also used as anon-driven wheel, 2s suggested for “Tyro', then a means of ‘clamping the two ‘halves must be provided and a bearing fitted. A 13mm ‘outside diameter ball-race did fit Comfortably, but there was no positive retention of the inner half of the wheel on to the ball race, so | was relying on the outer track of the race being a very light drive fit in the wheel. This system has been employed very satisfactorily in the past, but I'm not sure of the tolerance applied to this particular bore by the people who make the S.M.R.U. wheels. This could result in all sorts of difficulties if the bore does come out a bit oversize (Our ability to make tyres from "Flexane ‘enables us to look at wheel desion from a fresh angle. My preference for a simple wheel is to make it from two similar tumned halves, with the ball race and the tyre clamped between the two, which are simply held together by three countersunk serews. The only difference between the two is that the outer section of the central hole in one is a clearance over the axle fend, while in the other itis @ clearance ‘over the means of retention of the inner track on the axle, (This could bea nut on @ threaded portion of the axle or a cap head socket (Allen} screw fitting a tapped hole), The inner section of this hole in ‘each half is of course the means to ‘accommodate half the width of the race outer track. The dimensions of the recess should be such that the halves will slide freely over the bearing, without shake, thus locating one in relation to the other, ‘and the depth should result in the outer track being gripped when the two halves fare screwed together. It will be obvious from the above that the detail design of the wheel depends upon the dimensions of the bearing avalable. | have found a suitable one, made by Koyo, which has an outside diameter (0/0) of 13mm, an inside, or bore, diameter (I/D) of 4mm and a width ‘of 5mm, Whiston has some in his surplus range at very reasonable prices of ‘sin. 0/0, 3/16in. 1/D and 5/32in. wide. ‘To produce a wheol of this type, mount 2 piece of aluminium bar in the lathe ‘chuck, the diameter of the meterial being ‘such that is will produce 1/4in. O/D (16in, material will be O.K. if you can centre it accurately enough). Face the end ff the bar, then with the later running at high speed, centre with a Slocombe ‘centre dill. Pilot drill about 1/8. diameter for around %in. deep, then open this out for the through hole appropriate Model Mechanics, March 1979 1"2in dia to the half being made. Mount a small boring tool in the toolpost and carefully bore the recess to accept the bearing of your choice, to the fit previously described. To save using the bearing as a plug ‘gauge and thus exposing it to the risk of filing up with swarf, it would be a good idea to make up a plug gauge of steel, to exactly the same diameter as the outer race (this must be the first turning operation, of course, before starting to ‘attack the aluminium bar). A slight taper, or lead, fled on the end of this plug gauge will give you a good idea 3s to how the boring operation is going, by how far the taper enter the undersize hole. A strategically placed stop on the outside diameter will also assist in getting the depth right. The easiest way to adjust the dopth is to bore the hole slightly deeper than necessary, then to teke facing cuts ‘over the end of the bar, unti it is right. ‘When boring the hole, go very carefully because some tools appear to cut better ‘on the way out than when being fed in, ‘and it's very easy to overdo things. When satisfied with the bore, tum 2 shoulder, Jin. diameter, 3/32in. deep, to form the spigot on which the centre of the tyte fits. The final turning operation on this side Is not an easy one, because it involves the use of a round nosed tool set rassways in the tool post and fed straight in to form the recess between the spigot and the outside diameter. it will probably be necessary to grind up a ‘spacial tool to get the right form, because the radius which forms the recess must ‘Three 6 BA. csk. scrows equi-spaced on 3/4in pitch circle dia, to suit bearing Wheel blend into the spigot and must also leave ‘band approximately .040in. thick which ‘will clamp into the side wall of the tyre. The length over which such a tool is cutting makes chatter a distinct possiblity. ‘After this parting off, just over Yin thick should be simplicity itself, especially for those who possess a back tool post! A sharp parting tool, set upside down in this, at contre height and square to the lathe axis is a must for parting off as far as Tam concerned. ‘Mate both halves as far as this joint, then remove the stock bar from the chuck ‘and grip each part in tum on the tin. diameter spigot (not with sucti force that it is damaged) — to finish the face with light outs before fashioning the radius. Although frowned upon by some, the use of a file here simplifies the job, ‘The final operation is to mark out dri, ‘ap and countersink the three holes for the 6BA countersunk screws. The pitch circle giameter (PCD) can be marked with a scriber held in the scribing block or clamped in the too! post before removing the job from the lathe. Set the scriber to the correct radius, bring it up just to touch the face of the job, then rotate the lathe by hand, s0 that the circle is scribed. “The angular position of the holes can ‘also be marked if the job is held in a 3 jaw ‘chuck. Bring each jaw in turn up against a ‘stop wa tool in the tool post or@ length of bar of suitable length stood on the lathe bed). With the scriber in the block set at Centre height, scribe a horizontal line ‘across the pitch circle to locate each 79‘On removal from the chuck, fit the two halves of the wheel together over the bearing (or preferably a dummy of the ‘same dimensions — swarf again!) Clamp ‘together and dri through on one of the hole centres No. 44 (or 2.2mm). Part the halves and tap one side 6BA. Open out the hole in the other half to No. 33 (2.9mm) and countersink to suit the screws. On the outside of each haif lightly Centre pop to identify the mating holes then re-assemble with a screw in position to clamp the halves while the other two holes are driled and tapped. Tyre When describing “Tyro', | specified ‘S.M.R.U. wheels as being the only ones available. Some potential builders may be dissuaded by the fact that at the moment it is necessary to obtsin these from ‘Sweden. | have therefore been carrying ‘out some research on the possibilities of ‘making alternetives. IMy first move was to look up the old literature on how the pioneers of the 1940s didit, because we are once again in 2 similar position. The obvious ploy was for them to raid the toyshops, but as would be expected, tyres from this source would not be designed with any thought of surviving the speeds required. Every commercially available rubber ring was considered and many and varied were the schemes devised for clamping them into wheels so that they wouldn't fly off, ‘A popular source of rubber was that sold by the large stores for shoe repairing purposes, and many a car showed a clean paar of heels to the opposition — Iiteally! ‘Much ingenuity was exhibited in the machining of this raw material into the profiles required. ‘Some stalwarts went back to squre one and obtained supplies of raw, uncured tuber which was cast into two and three piece metal moulds which had been Carefully machined as the ‘negative’ of the \ required shape. Les Hole, a former secretary of the Bristol and West Model Car Club (come {0 think of it | feel that technically he is sill n officell recounts how, after having poured his first attempt he duly vuleanised it (mould and all) with a blowlamp. On opening the mould, he found that he had rather overdone things because when the hot tyre slipped out of his hands, it hit the floor and shattered. This conversation led mo to consider the use of cold curing synthetic rubbers now available. The main drawback seemed to be that | couldn't find a black ‘one, and although white tyres would be better than nothing, | still felt that | could do better. ‘At about this time | acquired Gerald Wingrove's excellent book ‘The Complete Car Modeller’. In it he describes how he overcame the problem by mixing in carbon black, but the smallest pack | Could find appeared to contain about 3 hhundredweight. The search for 2 black 80 synthetic eventually proved successful when | discovered Deveon ‘Fiexane’ which is a cold casting material of Urethane nature. It is available in four grades, giving Shore Hardness values of 30, 60, 80 and 94 respectively. The list of possible uses included ‘Trolley Whee's’, 80 | thought I was on the right track. The availablity of other synthetic ‘materials, such as the cold curing epoxy resins gives us @ further advantage over the pioneers. These materials allow us 10 make moulds by pouring over a ‘positive’ master pattern, rather than having to machine 2 ‘negative’ mould. Gerald ‘Wingrove has described clearly the multi= ‘step method by which he is able to cope with undercuts such as tread pattems, but for our immediate purposes we can ‘adopt a simplified procedure. The first step is to design the form of tyre we require. The S.M.R.U. driving wheel is quite neat, but does suffer, | fel, from being rather thin at the ‘tread, leading to a high rate of wear on a tarmac fr conerate surface. The precious stock of tytes available in this country last year was depleted by one when Stan Barratt of Hull had to fit a replacement at Brean in October. This was achieved by scrounging one from an unbullt kit. have therefore decided to increase the tread width considerably until we have more ‘experience of the wearing qualities of Flexane. Thinking back to the old days, | recall two factors which seemed to be essential if a tyre was to stay on the wheel at high engine speeds. These are: — 1, There must be positive restraint by clasping into each side wall 2. The central hole of the tyre must locate closely over a rigid spigot of either solid or tubular form, thus discouraging distortion, ‘The S.M.R.U, wheel exhibits both these features, so | guess they're stil vali, Once these principles are accepted, its only a matter of juggling the dimensions. within the outside diameter required, the selected width and the bore allowed by ‘the wheel bearing design. The next move is to machine up a rigid model or pattern of the finalised design. Reluctant to commit precious tocks of aluminium ber for this purpose, | looked round for an acceptable (and perhaps preferable} alternative. The local stockist of Flexane deals in many forms of non- metalic meterial, such as nyion, Tufnol and Perspex. He aiso manufactures in these materials and saves all his offcuts, Which are then sold for 50p per kilo. For £1.00 | came away with a large bag containing useful odds and ends of many sections (you just take pot luck). A piece of 3/8in. thick Tufnol was marked with a 24in. diameter circle, and ‘cut out just oversize with the bandsaw. A Yin. diameter hole drilled in the contre proved accurate enough to mount the job ‘on my Yin, stub mandrel, held in the 3 jaw chuck. The outside diameter was turned with a normal right hand knife tool, then bearing in mind the fact that a2 part mould was to be cast, a slight ‘drew’ ‘was filed on one haif af the 0/0. The clamping groove was formed in the sida wall by means of a thin tool held crosswise in the toolpost fed straight in cone the selected diameter. If | remember Correct, this was a tool specially ground up many moons ago for sereweurting an ‘odd worm). After clearing a few bits of burr and flash with a flle, the job was turned round on the mandrel and the grooving tool fed straight in before touching the cross slide setting, thus ‘ensuring that the two grooves were on T } Hid ro | Tyre Model Mechanics, March 1979® the same diameter. Before removing from the stub mandrel, e matching draw was filed on the second half of the tread area. I was necessary to clean up the face of the Tufnol where some delamination had ‘occurred, and the resulting thickness wes about 11/32in. The final operation was to grip the pattern lightly in the external jews of the 3 jaw chuck to bore out the central tin, diameter hole. A few seconds’ work with @ round file again put radii in the right places. The result was quite a pleasing mock up of the tyre which, when clamped between the halves of the wheel centre, looked 0.K. At this point, help end advice was sought from a colleague whose speciality is making one-off moulds for special purposes, his castings being usually the ‘wax patterns used in lost wax casting. His view was that my simple model could produce an excellent mould, and so it proved, Step 1 was to prepare a block of modelling clay, about 4in. square by about 1ein thick. This was shuttered up with odd ends of Perspex which were about 2%in. high, held into a box form ‘around the clay with a couple of 6 clamps. The modeling clay was levelled as well as possible within the ‘box’, being pushed ‘out to seal all round the sides. ‘Step 2 was to bury the pattern in the clay to as near half its depth as possible. Lif you're significantly adrift from the halfway line, the ‘draw! which was filed ‘on each half of the tread will stop you from getting the pattern out of one or ‘other halves of the mould}. After finishing ound with a flat knife, a number of registers were formed by plunging a Conical abject into the clay at strategic points, One was in the contre of the pattern and the others randomly placed ound the outside. Care must be taken not to deform the surface of the clay too drastically so that the surface level near the patter is altered. Step 3 consisted of spraying the surface of the modelling clay, the pattern ‘and the insides of the ‘box’ with a silicone release agent from an aerosol, then filing up the space above the clay with an epoxy resin (Araldite and Devcon, among thers, market suitable compounds). The fesin was mixed with some aluminium powder to provide additional strength but there are, apparently, many more fillers Which would be suitable wany good supplier will advise). The resin was applied in two ways; firstly a light coat was brushed over the clay and pattern, to ensure that there were no air bubbles trapped near the surface. The remainder was poured up to the top of the shuttering, again care being taken to ensure a minimum of air bubbles. This half of the mould was then left to cur completely. ‘Step 4 entailed removing the modelling clay, then replacing the shuttering, so that the other half of the mould could be Model Mechanics, March 1979 poured in the same way as the first, not forgetting, of course, a spray with the release agent Step 5 was to split the mould and to remove the model, which was achieved with litle difficulty to reveal a perfect impression in both halves. If there are any ‘small blemished, they should be corrected at this stage; ‘pimples’ are carefully removed with a sharp knife end ‘depressions filed with a 5 minute epoxy. ‘An ‘in-gate’ or runner carved, partly in ‘each half, from an edge of the mould to a convenient point in the impression ‘completes the mould, which is now ready 10 accept the rubber compound, ‘After examining one or two test pieces, | selected the hardest grade of Flexane, namely 94, as being suitable for the smal solid section tyre with which we are dealing. The main problem | could foresee ‘was that, as | was using only one mould, and that the tyre would use only a small ‘quantity of mix, | would need to be very Ceroful in the measuring and mixing of the two constituents to avoid a great deal of waste. A search in the domestic ‘stores’ revealed a smal plastic container of the type used for individual servings of marmalade (nothing ever gots. thrown ‘away in our housel) The recommended mix for ‘94" is 22 parts of Fiexana to 10 curing agent, so | ‘tied 2 measures of one to use less than 1 ‘of the other into a redundant yoghurt carton, followed by a good stir. | had previously brushed a thin coat of the ‘supplied release agent over the inside of the mould and over the contact faces where | thought the mix could spread. ‘This was done because | frst applied a coat of the mix to each side of the open ‘mould. The two halves were then brought together and clamped. The remainder of the mix was poured down the feed tunner, @ thin rod being used to agitate the urethane, in an attompt to release the ‘rapped air. had to work quickly, as the working life of this grade is only ten ‘When no more mix would pass through the runner, twas let to cure. On opening Note the failure in the centre the mould — success? No, FAILURE, or ‘at most 90% sucoass. The Flexane had hardened off before the last pocket of air had been released from just under the runner. The remainder of the tyre was, however, perfect and convinced me that ‘with a bit of practice, a satisfactory job could be achieved. For the second attempt | took much ‘more care to ensure that the proportions of the mix were correct. When trying to Work quickly itis very easy to leave some ff ether constituent in the measuring ‘vessel, and with small quantities this ean have @ significant effect. The major ‘change in technique, however, was to fil each half of the mould independenty, then bring the two together before the mix started to harden. | remembered ‘again to coat the mating faces of the ‘mould with release agent, so that any flash extruded from the contre would not bind the two halves together. The result was a great improvement. The only dofects were some small pin holes around the tread area and one small air bubble in the bore, The latter resulted, | feel, from ‘the inability of arin the central area of the ‘mould being able to vent. | therefore dried a few holes from this area to the ‘outside of the mould. For the third attempt, an old Sm. medicine spoon was used as a measure, fout slightly heaped ones of Floxane being tused to two level ones of hardener. Care ‘was taken to remove as much as possible of each from the spoon, each time and to clean the spoon before changing from fone constituent to the other. Each half of the mould was carofully filed and a litle more time allowed to elapse (3 or 4 minutes) before trying the two together, so that as many of the air bubbles as possible could come to the surface. This time the result was as near perfect as could be wished (just the odd pin hole here and there) so | now consider that simple tyres are quite within anyone's copabiities. 81Make a Start in Steam two and three cylinder engine Part II THE SIMPLEST DEVELOPMENTS of the single oscillating engine are to try to increase the output power and to make the engine self-starting. Two cylinders will increase the power whereas three cylinders spaced at 120° will enable the engine to self start as well as produce increased power. With two cylinders several arrangements are possible (a) cylinders opposed to each other, i.e. at 180° angle (b) cylinders inclined at 90° to each other (c) cylinders inclined at 120° to each other (d) cylinders inclined at some other angle to each other. Many of these arrangements are already found in car engines to satisty balance problems and space availability, e.g. horizontally opposed or the Vee's of 90°, 60° or 120°, The two-cylinder design | selected inclines the cylinders at 120° and uses the cylinder and piston assembly, crankweb and crankshaft, and flywheel described for the’ single cylinder in Part |. | also made up the three cylinder version and will include details of the main frame and inlet pipe arrangements. | have made no attempt to. bring the exhausts together into one outlet as | wanted to keep the engines as uncomplicated as possible. Hf, however, the exhausts were all connected, @ further development would be to run the inlet pipe and exhaust pipe through a. reversing block, allowing the steam inlet and exhaust to be interchanged, which in 82 turn would reverse the direction of rotation of the engine Mainframes. Fig. 1 The mainframes are built up this time to avoid bending the thicker sheet. Mark out, hacksaw away the waste and file the two sides making up each complete frame from steel shest approx. Imm thick or 18 gauge. Drawfile all the edges and remove those burrs; aim to keep the frames as flat as possible, so avoid using a guillotine. Drill the 5mm dia. holes in two stages to give more accurate holes, first with a 4.6mm drill and then with a 5mm drill. Even then, if you have one, a twist from a 5mm reamer will help to get that truly round hole. Cut off a length of mild steel 135mm for the double engine or 160mm for the three cylinder from a bar size 25% 10mm. Drill this with two 4mm holes positioned 25mm from each end on the centreline of the wide face, which allows the engine to be bolted or screwed down to a wooden baseplate. Clamp the two frames each side of this base piece and drill through with a clearance drill for M3 to SBA thread. Hold together with a tiny bolt, washer and nut, or if you cannot find a long bolt, cut a short thread on each end of a suitable length of 3mm or 1/Binch mild steel tod and fit washers and nuts each side. Once the frames have been bolted together, drill through the centre Smm dia. hole into the rear frame. Keep the drill square to the frames or Use a verticle drill set up, resting the by John Wheeler rear frame on the drill table. This will need 2 three stage process for accuracy. ‘Spot’ with a 5mm drill through the front frame hole, that is, just start drilling into the rear frame providing a start for the next drill Which will be undersize. Replace with, 2 4.5 drill and drill right through the rear frame. Now you have ensured that the hole is correctly positioned which in this case’can be opened out, with the Smm drill. This may seem long-winded, but does help to avoid that three lobed shaped hole a twist drill so. often produces. in sheet material. ‘Spotting through’ is often used to position holes or threads on matching parts. Make up the crankshaft, crankweb and crankpin as described in Part 1 ‘and also. two or three cylinder assemblies. For multiple numbers of a given part, work each similar process (on each part at the same time, that is, hacksaw off three cylinders, file of face one end of each part, mark out to length on each part, file or face off to length — and so on. If you always work on the parts in the same order you should find cylinder number three the most accurate as you have had one and two to practise on! This is the reason why most modellers often make up an extra item, treating this as number one, the trial piece, which can act as a spare if all the others are good, or a replacement if you spoil one. Our cylinders each require a 40mm length of hexagonal aluminium alloy of 20mm across the flats (A/F). These are squared off to equal lengths, drilled and reamed Model Mechanics, March 1979 @Ja Mainframes two cylinder engine Fear trae shape shown with tnt. Por blocks 2 of 10% 20310 Secure to back of font rama ts 4 oH 1 ‘ t a eies , | 3 Holes M3 Clearance 3H cca 7 1 ig {bh Mainrames thee cinder engine fa eee eee haa | | © f | Patbiade a 990, rere ts Model Mechanics, March 1979 rita eam 1.04 Fig2 Cylinder through 10mm or 3/8inch. This is easily done on a small lathe but it will require extra care if the ends are hand filed square and then drilled and reamed using vertical | found that a synthetic cutting id called ULTRALIN made the drilling and reaming of the aluminium alloy less ligble to jam, or build up of ‘swarf on the cutting edges to occur. Reaming or even boring out to size on the lathe is important here as we want a cylinder with a smooth bore. Mark the centre of one of the long faces of the cylinder and drill and tap M5. Try not to break into the bore, but no real harm will be done as this hole will be blocked up by the pivot screw which will be fitted in with Araldite or Loctite. However, when you do fit the pivot screw, make sure it does not protrude into the bore to jam or stop the piston in its travel up and down the bore. If necessary, clean out the bore with the reamer after the Araldite has set hard. But back to the cylinder. File or machine away this long face carefully, keeping it flat, until its width is approx. 14mm and then for 8mm each side of the pivot screw hole, file away to a depth of %mm (Fig. 2). This is to reduce the area of Contact with the mainframes and hence the friction of the oscillating port faces. It also allows the port faces to bed down more quickly. 8The cylinder heads are made from slicos Imm thick off the same hexagonal bar or cut out from alloy sheet, and the pivot screws from a length of 5mm rod threaded each end MB. A compression spring and adjusting nut for each cylinder nearly completes the assembly. Make up the piston and connecting rod (see Part 1) and fit together so that the length from piston top to the Centre of the crankpin hole in 58mm. I ound it easier this time to secure the port blocks in place usin countersunk rivets, then after | had drilled for inlet and exhaust ports, ‘counterbored for the copper inlet pipes and fitted the pipes, | soldered the lot in place in one go. Once the port blocks have been riveted in place, assemble the cylinders on their pivot’ screws temporarily, fit the pistons and connecting rods_ and place in position on the mainframe fand over the crankpin. | found it (0 ‘joggle’ the piston rods for al to fit on the single crankpin and rotate without jamming. Streight piston rods would be ideal but will Fequire each successive cylinder to be set off the mainframe by increasing amounts ‘Add the compression springs and adjusting nuts, making sure all rotates smoothly. Taking each cylinder in turn, set up for diiling the inlet and exhaust ports (sce Part 1), clamp in position each time and dri through the cylinder into the port block with a 2mm dil “This outer hole is then filed with Araldite when the cylinder head and pivot screw are finaly fixed. Remove the cylinder assemblies and crankshaft from the mainframe, and teke the mainframe apart. Dri into the rear of the port blocks at each inlet position with a 4mm dil to {2 depth of 5mm. Simply stated, this is ‘Counterbore to a depth of 5mm’ — ‘another technical term learnt! The copper inlet pipes between the port 4 blocks will need annealing, that 1s, heat each pipe length up to a dull red heat with a gas flame, leave to cool for a while, and then drop into a diluted sulphuric acid bath to clean off the scale. Avoid splashes, so don’t drop it in when hot. My acid is one part commercial concentrated sulphuric acid poured slowly into seven parts distiled water in a glass Pyrex dish fitted with @ glass lid. This will get very warm When freshly made up. DON'T ~ repeat DON'T — ever pour water into any concentrated acid as the heat produced will cause a violent ‘explosion, and the acid will be thrown everywhere. | keep my diluted acid in the Pyrex dish inside a secured, well- marked container. Keep well out of reach of small children. If you don’t like the idea of acid baths at home, visit your local night school or Model Society where I'm sure they will help with such @ facility, and probably many more! This acid bath is only suitable for cleaning or ‘pickling’ copper, brass, gunmetal or bronze items to remove the scale or flux after heating or silver soldering. Do not drop in mild steel parts 2s they will quickly be fissolved and your acid will be neutralised, made useless! ‘You will need a pair of brass tweazers or tongs to remove the parts, carefully, and well wash off Under running water. Brass tweezers are easily made up by cutting a couple of ‘tweezer shaped’ legs about 150mm long from brass sheet, bending to a curve between the fingers so that when you rivet the wide ends together (brass or copper rivets, please) the working ends are about 12mm apart. ‘When bending copper pipes, drill ‘an easy fitting hole in a piece of soft wood, push the end of the copper pipe into the hole, bend a little, pull out a fraction, bend again, pull out @ bit more, bend again and so on until you have the required curve. Practise with a spare length to avoid kinks and to achieve a smooth ‘curve. You will notice the soft wood Crushes at the bend points and does not damage the soft copper pipe, Cut off one length, 145mm for the double cylinder and one of 145mm and one of 165mm for the triple oylinder engine from the 4mm copper pipe. Anneal as described, pickle in acid and bend to fit each engine. The main inlet pipe is %inch dia. copper and is fitted into a counterbored %inch hole in the port block. Anneal, pickle and_bend before cutting to length. ‘Once all the pipes have been fitted, solder into place, at the same time Soldering the port blocks to the main frame, | had to use a gas flame for heating as my soldering iron was not big enough for the heat required to melt the solder and let it run all found the joints. When cool, wash off all the traces of soft solder flux and paint the mainframe. | suggest fa dark green. Don't forget to mask off the areas where the cylinders rub. Polish up the copper pipes, the cylinders and connecting rods. Paint the crankwob a bright red. Re-assemble the engine and add a flywheel of your choice, one you have turned up in the lathe or bought from the local model shop. It will need a 5mm hole drilled through it and a grub screw to secure it to the crankshaft. Fit inside, or outside the frames 2s you choose. Screw or bolt the engine down to a wooden base, connect up to a low pressure steam or air line ‘and hey presto, either engine should zip around, just right for driving @ small fan or generator. Don't forget the oil allmoving surfaces. can on ‘Model Mechanics, March 1978The Development of the Railway Steam Locomotive © martin evans describes the background behind the famous locomotives, sa some of which may still be seen today. wo THE EARLY STOCKTON & DARLING. TON locomotives were coal bumers, as this fuel was cheap and obtained from collieries served by the railway, but for many years from 1829, coke was the normal fuel for steam locomotives, apart from the S & D and one or two other lines in the Durham area. ‘The early multitubular boilers with their ‘small fireboxes and short tubes were unsuitable for bituminous coal burning, Eorly attempts to overcome these difficulties took many forms, such as the ‘addition of some kind of combustion chamber — i.e. @ chamber to increase firebox volume without increasing grate ‘area. Other ideas included the fitting of double fireboxes and the addition of the brick arch”. Pethaps the most ‘successful of the experiments to make the locomotive boiler suitable for coal burning was that carried out by the Midland Railway, in 1859. The “brick arch” used consisted of nine blocks forming an arch ‘across the firebox, its lower edge being arranged at the front bottom comer af the firebox, with the arch sloping diagonally ‘upwards towards the rear. Combined with this, a deflecting plate was fitted immediately above the firedoor, sloping downwards, so as to prevent cold alr being drawn in from the door and straight ‘across to the tubes. Similar brick arches ‘and deflecting plates were used right up to the end of the steam “era”. Between 1860 and 1865, the use of steel in locomotive work was greatly extended, this metal being used for wheel tyres and axles, and later for boilers and fireboxes. Injectors, for using the power GWVR large “Atlantic” as modified by Gresley. Model Mechanics, March 1979 ‘Rocket’ of Rainhll Trials fame of the steam in the boiler to force and feed ‘water into the boiler, were also introduced in this period, as were screw reversing ‘gears and water pickup gear in locomotive tenders, to pick up water while running, from troughs between the rails. The first, successful steel tyres were made by Krupps of Essen, Germany, Many British locomotive engineers used Keupps tyres; later, successful stee! tyres ‘were manufactured by Henry Bessemer & Co., and by Naylor & Vickers of Shoffield The earliest steel boilers were made in 1862/3 for the Maryport & Carlisle and tho. L.N.M, Railways, though the latter way used Lowmoor iron (a very pure form of iron produced in Yorkshire) for boilers for many years after this. One of the most important inventions in the locomotive fittings field was the invention of the injector, by Giffard in France in 1858. In the injector, live steam from the boiler is introduced through a cone, picking. up the feed water in the fiting and delivering it through further ‘cones, and through @ non-return valve to the boiler. The great advantage of the injector was that the locomotive boiler could be filed while the engine was stationary; furthermore there were no moving parts to wear our. The injector was quickly adopted by nearly all British railways, although ‘Stroudley on the L.B.S.C.R. continued to Use crosshead-driven pumps. Locomotive Design Returning to locomotive design, one of 85WAU sannowo29] a6uassed ssasdxe 1sy SBuyas ¥O1NEd $0 9UD. veh IS Model Mechanics, March 1979The first of Patrick Stirlings graceful 8 foot “singles” the better engines of 1868 was the utside-cylinder 2-40 type introduced by B. Connor on the Caledonian Railway. This had either 6 ft. 8 in. or 7 ft. 2 in driving and coupled wheels, cylinders 17 in, by 24 in., and a working pressure of 140 p.s.i, AN unusual feature, common with Connor's “singles' of 1859, was the se of long travel valves, the lap of the valves being 11 in., as against 7/Bin. to1 iin, used on most other locomotives of the period. The long travel valves allowed very free running of the engine, and economical use of the steer. Patrick Stiring, one of the outstanding locomative engineers of his time, took ‘over his department on the Great Northern Railway in 1966, and at first followed his predecessor, Archibald Sturrock, very closely. His first express engines were of the 2-2-2type, with inside oyinders and long wheelbase. Stirling ‘was also notable for the introduction of his 8 foot “singles”, which were of the 42-2 type with outside cylinders. The cylinders of No. |, the first of the B-footers, were quite large for the period, at 18 in. diameter and 28 in. stroke; the working pressure was 140 p.s.i, the boiler boing domeless. Stirling's later engines were all of the inside cylinder type. ‘At the same time as Stiing’s 8-footers ran from Catisle to Aisgill Summit, 48% miles in §9 minutes, with 2 load of 130 tons. This route involves a rise of 1100 feet, with the last 11 miles ata gradient of in 100. F. W. Webb's 2.40 engines for the LIN.W.R. must now be mentioned. These were the “Precursor” class, with driving and coupled wheels 5 ft. 6 in. dia., and the “Precedent” class, with 6 ft. 7% in. dia, wheels, The cylinders of both classes were 17 in.x24 in. and the working pressure 140 p.s.i, A feature common to all LLN.W.R. engines at the time was an fash hopper below the smokebox, into which the ashes descended through ‘spaces at the sides of the cylinders. Allan straight-link valve gear was used. The "Precedents", also known as the ““Jumbos”, proved very successful and were used on express services for 30 years. Aftor 1887, the working pressure Was raised to 150 p.s:i,, when new boilers were provided. One of the class, Charies Dickens, was said to have completed about 2% milion miles before being broken up: however it is ikely that most of the working parts had been replaced during the engine's career. Hardwicke, No. 790 of the “Precedent class, made railway history during the (One of the first, and a most successful type, was Dugald Drummond's for North British Railway, 1876-78. These ‘engines had 18 in, by 26 in. cylinders and 160 p.s.i. working pressure. Driving and coupled wheels were 6 ft. 6 in. diameter: ‘Compounding was a system much used ‘abroad, and on the L.N.W.R. Webb mada many experiments with compound ‘engines, where the exhaust from the high-pressure cylinder/s s passed into the low pressure evlinder/s, in order to obtain ‘the maximum amount of work from the steam before being exhausted to the atmosphere. Four classes of compound express engines were built at Crewe from 1882 to 1890. The first was Experiment, Which had outside high-pressure cylinders driving the trailing axle and a single inside low pressure cylinder driving the middle axle. The h.p. oylinders were 11 % in. dia, and the Ip. 26 in. dia, ‘The second type of compound built by Webb had larger h.p. cylinders, at 13 in. dia, The boilers wore similar to. the “Precedent” class, but with the higher working pressure of 150 p.si. An arrangement was made so thet steam direct from the boiler could be admitted to the lp. cylinder. Experiment was later ‘altered to conform with the 13 in. engines. The next Webb compounds were the “Dreadnought” class, the first of which was completed in September 1894. These locomotives were considerably larger than the earlier compounds, the two h.p. cylinders being 14 in. diameter and the single L.p. cylinder no less than 30 in. diameter, the stroke being 24 in. The driving whedls wore 6 ft. 3 in. dia. and the working pressure 175 p.s.i. An interesting feature, patented by Mr. Webb, was the reversing gear, which was arranged so that the high and low pressure valve gears ‘could be operated either together or independently One of the famous GWR “singles” 1894-1689 appeared (1870) some very fine 2-4-0 faxpress engines were built by Matthew Kirtley of the Midland Railway. These, known as the “800” class, wore bullt both ‘at Derby and by Neilson & Co. from 1870-72. They had 17 in. x24 in cylinders, and 140 p.s.i. boilers. Kinley's ‘successor, Samuel Johnson, was impressed by the success of the “800” class and rebuilt them with larger boilers ‘and new cylinders 18 in. x24 in.; in some ‘cases 18 in. x26 in. Ono of these engines Model Mechanics, March 1979 races to Scotland in 1895. She covered the 141% miles from Crewe to Cartisle in 126 minutes. True, the train was very light one of 70% tons, but the run included the formidable inciines of Grayrigg and Shap. The maximum speed during the run is said to have been 92 mph. From 1876 onwards, the inside-cylinder 44.0 type of express _ passenger locomotive became very popular, and was built by a large number of British railways, Starting was poor with the “"Dreadnoughts”, mainly owing to the ‘small size of the hp. cylinder, and an arrangement was then added to allow the exhaust from the h.p. cylinders to pass directly to the blast pipe, relieving the back pressure on the h.p, pistons. This did not however effect much improvement. The next class of Webb compounds were the “Teutonics”, of which three Were builtin 1889 and seven in 1890. The a7TOOLS OF THE TRADE Rex Tingey looks at the UNIMAT SL The basic Unimat S.L. outtit THE UNIMAT SL first appeared on the market in the 1950's and was very similar to the SL models available today — or perhaps yesterday — the SL has been withdrawn from production since the ‘great success of the recent Unimat 3. The ‘makers intended to manufacture both lathes side by side for some time to come, but the Unimat 3 has been such a success that the Unimat SL has not been selling, ‘and so, unfortunately, it has been withdrawn, The manufacturers assure me that spares will be made and be available for ten years, and so the secondhand market will thrive. ‘The major reason that the Unimat 3 has sold over the SL is because apparentty the price of the basic SL is only a litle lower than that of the 3, the much improved ‘model. The price difference isin fact quite large since the basic SL outfit is complete ‘with dri chuck, Saw chuck and vertical column, plus a grinding whoo! ‘attachment, whereas, with the Unimat 3 the baie lathe set does not include these items, and they have to be paid for as extras. ‘The Basic Outfit Since your Unimat SL may have to be 90 bought on the sacondhand market itis a5 well to khow what comprises the complete outfit. My SL was purchased in 1975 and consisted of the bed complete with headstock, tailstock, drive motor, cross-slide and ‘carriage, and headstock ‘eed lever. Also provided were a large and ‘small drive belt, two centres, a face-piate ‘and lathe dog, an allen key for most of the adjusting screws, a took-post, a grinding Wheel holder and a T-slot screw. The largest extra part was the vertical column with @ casting to hold the heedstock. Also cluded were a throo:jaw chuck, with a machined-to-the-lathe backplate, and a drill chuck. Tri last two items are exuded as part of the basic set in the handbook, ‘but were part of that sold on the British market. The handbook with the lathe states that the drive motor is 90 watts, but the motor plate shows it to be @ 95 watt motor. ‘Age of the SL Possibly the best guide to the age of a particular SL is the wattage of the motor The first models had a 40 watt, then they progressed up through 75, then 90, finally ending up with the 95 watt motor, which is reasonably powerful, but not a modern high-efficiency design “Another telltale is if the handwheels fitted are made of metal or black plastic. The plastic ones were introduced in early 1975. If the lathe is @ recent model it will either be fitted with the black plastic hhandwheels or have homemade ones fitted; the metal handles fall out of the plastic after a slight knock, and the threads wear out if they are stripped off often. Technical Details From the handbook. Lathe Height of centres over pillars 192in Width between contes 6 %in Driling and milling Dril height 37/8in Overhang 3.3/8in Drill travel in Grinding Maximum diameter of whee! 23/80 ‘The Lathe: When turing between centres the contre height maximum allows a diameter of 2 13/16in to be swung, however, this Model Mechanics, March 1979 ) ®Useful accessories. Threading attachment, indexing head, live centre, 4 jaw chuck, machine vice grinding wheels and milling table. ‘Sweet Sixteen was made on the Unimat SL Lathe Model Mechanics, March 1979 The Unimat St set up a milling and drilling machine. ‘may be further restricted as the work has to be held to be turned. The jaws of the chuck will be extended, usually, to hold the diameter and the extra room required for the extended jaw to miss the bars will limit the swing further. ‘The tailstock and the carriage which carries the cross-slide are mounted on ‘two 12mm diameter bars which are fixed to the bed at each end. The headstock end is raised and milled flat, and the headstock can be swivelled on this for taper turning. The headstock can be Temoved as a complete unit with drive motor mounted on @ plate with an intermediate pulley. The plate secures to the hollow main drive spindle sleeve, which can be made to move back and forth in the headstock block by means of a food lever. The drive spindle runs in two ball races. The tallstock is loosened by a single screw and moved into place along the bars, it has an intemal drive mechanism for dling and fine adjustment by moans of a handwhoel ‘The carriage is driven along the bars by ‘a feed screw between the bars, with @ handwheel at the right hand end. The carriage can be locked onto the bars. On ‘the carriage are two smaller diameter bars land a cental feed screw for the cross: slide, worked with a handwheel. 1700LS OF THE TRADE ‘Advantages: a. Parts are simply and cheaply renewed if wear takes place. b. Swarf and fluids drop straight through the bars and ere easly cleaned away. . Accessories and additions can easily be fitted to the bars. d. The headstock height can be readily increased by the addition of a block, ‘sold as an accessory. fe. The headstock feed makes certain fiycutting, drilling and boring ‘operations possible. f. The hollow spindle allows tong materials of narrow diameter to be fed in for turning, Disadvantages: {a The bars limit the sizo of the workpiece without the possibilty of a gap. b. The bars tend to flex and to vibrate leading to chatter marks on the work, Motor and Drive The motor is mounted on a drive plate ‘and drives an intermediate three position pulley with its own three-position pulley. The drive spindle has a large three- position pulley, so between the direct and imermediste ‘drives nine different positions are possible. An accessory slow five plate is available which provides second intermediate pulley position and ives two more, slower, speeds. The ‘motor and drive plate fit directly onto the main spindle sleeve and make the headstock a self-contained unit. ‘Advantages: a. The self-contained drive unit makes the headstock unit availabe for vertical Use, for taper turning, and various different positional uses b, Pulley system gives a wide range of speeds, simply, for the various functions. Disadvantages: ‘a. The rubber belts stretch and slip under load, and tend to break quite easily Keep spares handy. Vertical Drilling and Milling For miling and ¢riling, the vertical column is used, removing the headstock from the bed and fitting the column into the hole thus left. The headstock is then bolted onto the casting, and the spindle sleeve loosened to provide the downward motion. The carriage then has to be driven by means of its feed screw up to the head end. The cross-slide will need to be fitted with either the machine vice or the milling table for most operations in this vertical mode. Both the vice and the ‘table are accessories and the latter comes complete with two clamping claws. In use the drill chuck holds the end rm cr twist dil, the work is held down firmly ‘and the clamping screw of the casting loosened to bring the tool nearly to 2 position, after clamping the drive can be advanced with the feed lever. The heedstock can be angled to about 45 degrees trom the vertical in either direction. The indexing head is paniculerly useful additional accessory for driling, milling and cutting gears. ‘Advantages: ‘2, The vertical mode extends the range of the machine tool considerably to cover many operations which would normally require other machinery: b. With the indexing head and the vertical mode the range of accurate machining ‘operations con be extended considerably. Disadvantages: a, Position of vertical colurnn limits maximum movement to that of the cross-slide travel b. The minute movement of bed and carriage bars often limits accuracy and finish of work, Criticism: The clamps supplied with the miling table tend to pull their stems out of the T-slot heads when heavily clamped. Chucks Four chucks are available. The three- jaw is a solf-cantring type with reversible jaws. The four-jaw requires independent adjustment of each jaw, each of which ccan be reversed. The drill chuck is self contained, and the collet chuck is an accurate self-centring chuck for small diameters. All four chucks will pass material, up to 2 cortain diameter, right through. “The three- and four-jaw chuck tend t0 break pans of their jaws, quite easily, ‘when the jaws are extended in particular, but these are easily replaced. Sets of soft jaws can be bought for the three-jaw for cutting to shape for a particular job. The four-jaw chuck does not have @ separate backplate on more racent models. ‘Threading Attachment ‘The threading attachment clamps 10 the bed of the lathe and allows the threading of work between contres, or, With the three-point steady-fited, work ‘can be hold by just the three-jaw chuck, necessary for internal threads. The attachment needs to be used in ‘conjunction with the three-jaw chuck since the backplate is used to hold the ‘threading leader. Leaders are available to ‘ive 20 different threads in Whitworth and metric leads, they are drum shaped ‘devices which require that the headstock sleeve is brought forward about an inch, reducing the turning capacity in this mode, although @ narrow diameter can still pass through. ‘The threading system employs a spring loaded back spindle holding the arm and follower, and the adjustable arm and its ‘cutter. The adjustable arm has @ guide seraw which rests and travels on the cross-slide. The attachment is rather cumbersome, but it does is job well and is an essential item if accossories and attachments are to be made to fit the lathe, for improvement. Note that the urtit includes a cradle for cutting internal threads. ‘Some Other Accessori The automatic feed attachment fits under the bed of the lathe and is a useful device for obtaining a first class finish when turning, Various grinding attachments are available, but it must be considered that after grinding wheels have been used 4 careful clean-up is aways required if excessive wear resulting from the grinding dust is to be avoided, Single and double live centres (with ball aces) are useful accessories and may be used for most work in place of the dead centres, and need no external lubrication: The steady rest is a three-point steady or holding the end of the work when the tallstock cannot be used, such as when boring longer pieces. ‘The milling arbour with its module cutters is an attachment for cutting gears, used in conjunction with the indexing attachment. The cutters are expensive. Conclusions. The Unimat SLs an extremely versatile ‘small machine tool. It is easily adaptable 10 perform a wide range of engineering funetions. It is smal, and worksize is limited by this, also, if caro is not taken to avoid overstressing then the bars will flex ‘and inaccuracies result, or at the very least, chatter marks will appear on the work. However it is well designed and deserving of more respect from the mode! engineer. It is capable of an extremely long working life and would be a good secondhand buy for the beginner. It needs little servicing and takes up very littl room, is portable and can be used anywhere ‘where © power supply available. Improvements have made many improvements to my ‘own SL, reducing the flexing end increasing its versatility. The two mejor improvements are perhaps the toothed belt, positive drive, and the fitting of an lunderbed to shift the vertical mode to the back centre. These modifications are all Contained in my book *”Making the Most of the Unimat”, together with improvements to the Unimat 3, Published by Argus Books Ltd, Price Model Mechanics, March 1973 €The Workshop By Andy Smith ®] ice those oF YoU seating thie new magazine, ever since | can remember I've been interested in mechanical things. And it will give you some indication of my years when | say that my early interest was fuelled, but never completely satisfied, by such pastimes of the period as fretwork, Meccano, Homby railways and 2. perusal ‘of the catalogues of Bassett-Lowke, the contents of which, as a family, we could never afford During most of this time I have had ‘2 workshop of some sort or other and it was many years before | realised that the real fascination lay in the workshop rather than in the particular mechanical hobby in which | happened, at that moment, to be involved. in other words, the pursuit of a practical hobby is as, if not more interesting, than the hobby itsolt The planning and building ot some project in the workshop, whether itis @ model steam locomotive or @ bookcase, is a fascinating process, which will require hours and hours of constructive thought followed by Jong periods of the exercise of ‘manual skill and dexterity; whereas the completed loco will only take you for rides around the garden, and the ished bookcase will hold the bound volumes of Model Mechanic. Both of the latter, | hasten to say, laudable pursuits but nothing to compare with the pleasure you have enjoyed during the periods of planning and building. If we were going to give descriptive titles, | think | would describe my workshop as being that of a Mode! Mechanic. ‘Model’, because the work carried out there is, | hope, 2s near as | can personally achieve to the correct way of doing things with my limited facilities, and is not slip shod”; as well as for the usual connotation of making miniature items of full-size engineering equipment. Although in the latter case, if | build a boiler for my four metre (13 ft.) steam launch it may be miniature but it is certainly not a modell “Mechanic”, in that we are dealing with mechanical devices, tools and equipment, and apart from. that, because | ‘like this old descriptive term and would like to see again raised to the respected position it once held. After all, James Watt and George Stephenson described themselves: as “mechanics”, and they knew a thing or two. Model Mechanics, March 1979 In these columns our intention is to help you set up and develop a simple “mechanics” workshop and ‘occasionally describe the making of some model, mechanism, tool or piece of equipment to assist your efforts or provide an interest. Treating this as just such an occasion, here is a strange and fascinating apparatus that can be built with the simplest of tools found in the usual household. Harmonographs If you are a parent or grandparent, this will provide hours of amusement for the kids, while should you be at the other end of our age range, i.e. a young teenager, this device guaranteed to get the old folks away from the goggle-box so that you may watch the "Old Grey Whistle Test” in peace. This device consists of two rods ‘moving under no apparent power and producing designs of a strange and attractive nature. To describe the harmonograph in less poetic: terms ‘one could say, it is an instrument for recording on paper, or some other suitable surface,” the figures described by two or more pendulums acting in concert. ‘A simple form is shown in figure 1. Two pendulums are suspended on points so. that their respective directions of movement are at right angles to one another. Thus pendulum “A” can swing only ina North-South direction, and. Fig 1 Simple N-S, E-W Harmonograph pendulum ““B”, East-West. The top of pendulum “B” carries a platform ‘on which a piece of paper is fixed to take the trace. Pendulum “A” carries {an arm, one end of which is hinged to permit it to rise and fall and the other carries the pencil or pen. The weights may be clamped at any point on the pendulum rod so as to vary the rate or period of swing The shorter the distance from the weight to the point of suspension, the shorter will be the period of swing, If the position of the weights are adjusted so that each pendulum hes the same period, they are said to be unison. The interest of the hermonograph, however, centres round the fact that, the periods of the pendulums can be varied relative to one another. Thus if "WN" is set to swing twice to "B's three times, an entirely new set of figures will result, and the variety is further increased by altering the respective amplitudes of swing and phase of the pendulums. These simple devices are such fun that | looked up some details on the subject and found that the figures produced apparently have a similarity to musical terms. In the case just mentioned, the period rates of A’ and “B"" are as two to three. Now, if the note C on. the piano is struck, the strings vibrate a certain number of times per second and give @ certain note. If the G above C is struck, a note will result from strings vibrating half as many times again per second as did the C strings. hence the “Harmony” of thependulums when so adjusted is known asa ‘major fifth” — the musical chord produced by striking C and G simultaneously. In like manner, if "A" swings four times to "B's five times, you get a “minor third; once to "B's twice, an octave, and so on. ‘A completely fresh field is opened if, for the one-direction suspension of the pendulums we substitute a gimbal or universal joint, permitting movement in all directions. Figure 2 shows how the various parts are made, metal, plastic or wood being used. The interested reader may experiment as he wishes with all manner of set-ups, each one of which will trace many interesting harmonograms. For the pendulum rods, % in. (6mm) diameter mild steel or aluminium rod has been found most suitable, while the weights ere slices from a larger diameter bar. We have made some by filling small bean tins with plaster of paris and drilling a hole Two designs made by the Harmonograph through the middle for the rod to pass through. The weight is retained in place by means of a 2 BA screw through a tapped hole or @ simple clamp in the case of the weighted Two forms of suspension are shown, one giving a simple north: south motion, while the other gives universal_motion, and no great degree of accuracy is necessary in construction, Wood block, clampee to rod, canyng pivots, ™ pivot in base Fig2 In harmonographs made by the writer for demonstration purposes, ball-point pens have generally been used. A finer and clearer outline can be obtained from an inking pen made by drawing outa piece of glass tubing in a bunsen flame. The tube should not be drawn too fast or the points will be too long to be of any use — about % in. of taper is enough. The sharp edge of the point is rubbed off (on a fine oilstone. The finer the remaining point (with due regard to the diameter of the hole) the finer wil be the ensuing line. Many years ago, draughtsmen wanting to ink drawings with very fine lines used this technique. These inked drawings with all the different parts given @ wash of a different water colour were works of art that we are unlikely to see again. | have not tried using a modern type of inking pen — which is simply an up- to-date version of the glass tube but it would be a good idea if you get really smitten with harmonographs. Actually, if you really want to go to town, Staedtler, and no doubt other pen makers, make special plotter points, designed for use _ in programmed draughting machines. But | think for most of us a simple ball-point will suffice Of the various harmonographs, the most interesting is the twin-elliptical type. On this type every ratio has two forms: (1) If the pendulums are working against each other there will be loops or points on the outside of the figure, equal in number to the sum of thé figures in the ratio. (2) If the pendulums are working with each ‘other the loops form inside the figure, ‘and are equal in number to the difference between the figures of the ratio, So the range of alternatives is considerable. Warning | must add a word of warming — harmonographs are wonderful time wasters, hours can be spent just playing’ with them. | have vivid recollections of the break-up which took place at a meeting of a so-called learned society when all the members wanted to produce pretty patterns! Model Mechanics, March 1979® A MODEL RAILWAY is rather big. Even a little one is about ten feet long, and is apt to be more than a slight nuisance around the house. Ideally, you need @ spare room, but then, who doesn’t? In practice, barring a lucky strike, the separate raiway room is a fairly late development in one’s progress in the hobby. In the early stages, some ‘compromise must be made. The Portable Layout The most obvious answer is the portable layout. To many beginners, it must be a single baseboard. This is ‘a dead-end, because, even in N ‘gauge you need something the size of ‘a door on which to build a worthwhile layout. Have you ever tried moving a door around the house? For 00 you need something bigger, so big that it won't go through the doorway. No, a portable layout is built in several sections, Technically speaking all layouts ‘one sees at exhibitions are portable, but the larger ones are produced either by a club or a small syndicate. Only the smaller, private layouts are truly portable in the sense that they can be erected and maintained by a single enthusiast. The practical limit of a private portable layout is as much set by the storage space as by the area in which it can be erected! Today, @ further Consideration is the family car. Four to six baseboards measuring imx0.5m can usually be stowed inside without difficulty and since this also represents the maximum amount that can be stowed in the average modern home without too much disturbance, present day thought suggests that something along these lines is ideal The most favoured scheme for such a layout is the small terminus — fiddle yard model. For various reasons an L-shaped format is favoured: it allows a reasonably long run along two walls of a room, and is rather _more stable than a long straight layout. Such a scheme is Model Mechanics, March 1879 Cyril Preezer introduces MODEL RAILWAYS shown in fig 1. Usually a branch prototype is chosen. This arose in the late 19403, when one either built everything or went without. Under these conditions a layout that only needed three locomotives to provide simple veriety made sense. In the altered conditions of the 1970's a busier main line style is advisable, this allows for a better operating potential and wider choice of locomotives. However, it is possible to build a continuous layout using four to six rectangular baseboards. Fig. 2 shows the basic arrangement of boards. | have not sketched in a. detailed layout, largely because the basic scheme is obvious, the details will vary according to the user's ideas. Storage It is very easy to forget that a portable layout has to go somewhere When not in use, and that unless that somewhere is neat and tidy, there will be trouble. Indeed if no cupboard is, available, one of the best solutions is to build the main station so that the test of the layout can be stored underneath, Fig. 3 gives the idea. In really elaborate arrangements, the would-be panels cross the base to hide the baseboards, and a lifting cover to hide the model from view and protect it from dust and accidental damage. All too often, old curtains are used around the base and, at best, a plastic sheet covers the ‘top. And some people wonder why their wives complain! Of course, if the model is 4 really outstanding one with first class scenery then it is worth looking at. In such cases, the solid top could be replaced by perspex. Bookcase Schemes From here the principle of a bookcase layout can be explored. The idea is simple: a model railway need not be very wide: no more than 12-15in. in most cases. If one lines the sides of a room with bookcases ‘and low cupboards then the railway can run along the top. (Fig. 4). Unfortunately like so_-many plausible ideas, there are snags. Mainly, it doesn’t seem to work well in modem combined _living-dining rooms, which are, in opinion, already so loaded to capacity that the addition of a model railway makes the idea unworkable. In most cases, the problem is T.V. interference — in reverse since the presence of the femily T.V. effectively prevents the modeller from exercising his craft. Folding and Lifting Before | move outside, I'd like to pass quickly over two ideas, one is the folding layout. Basically, the idea is to arrange the baseboards to fold fiat against the wall. (Fig. 5). It's a good one, it works, but there are two snags. The first is that all the stock has to come off before you lift, which means not only that you have to remember to ‘take it off but that it isn’t @ quick job to open or shut the railway. There is also the not inconsiderable problem ‘of having somewhere else to put them afterwards. Finally, because ‘one is limited, in practice, to about 5 ft. 0 in. in height above the hinging line, the maximum practical size is roughly 8ft. x 4 ft. There is one final point, it is absolutely essential to so arrange matters that the baseboard cannot come down by accident, which means not only that you need substantial hinges, but you need strong latches ‘and, _ preferably counter-weights. Needless to say, such a structure must be strong, and has to be fixed to the wall. Unless you are a sound carpenter, or can afford to employ a skilled craftsman, it isn’t a very good idea. You want it to fold, not fold up on youl The other bright idea is to suspend the layout from ropes fixed to the ceiling. It sounds attractive. Forget it, When | was an apprentice, in London Docks, | had one thing drummed into my head, never walk under a suspended load, for it only wants one sling to slip and you've had it. A ceiling suspended layout makes the Sword of Damocies look safe by comparison. There is also the not unimportant point that few houses have enough headroom to allow you to slice six inches off it, You must, by law have 7 ft. 6 in. headroom in a habitable room. The Garage The — suspended layout is marginally feasible inside a garage where it is easier to fix pulleys to the beams, where the general ugliness of the scheme doesn’t matter and 95| the probability is that if the railway does fall it will only do a limited amount of damage to the car. However, if you do opt for the garage then it’s a lot easier to build 2 permanent layout around the walls. Set at about 3 ft. 9 in. above floor level, one can even build a railway high enough to drive the car bonnet underneath. There are two snags with a garage layout. The car comes in damp, and dampness doesn’t really agree’ with most models. The second is that you have to be very far-seeing in the design. You may only have a mini at present, but you could possibly need a larger car in time. ‘Spare Room and Loft Backtracking into the house, one good answer lies in a general activities room. Reverting to the bookcase scheme, if you have relatively narrow —_ baseboards. around a moderate sized room, ‘there is enough space in the middle for other activities. Let's bring in a sewing machine and a worktable ‘and we have a room where two practical hobbies can be carried out. Of course one needs space. With older houses, a loft conversion is feasible. It isn’t quite as simple as it sounds. For a start, the joists are generaliy not strong enough, then You need to arrange ventilation and lighting, not to mention a proper ‘access. On modern houses there is rarely enough headroom and the prefabricated roof trusses come in the wrong places. It's going to cost a fair bit, in time and money, but as a long term scheme it is very popular. ‘Again, because of the size, it is feasible to make it a multi-purpose area. Garden Shed A garden shed or home extension make good sites for a permanent layout. Here total costs are easily estimated — just add about 60 per Cent to the basic price of the shed for the baseboard and other special features you'll need. Of the two, the house extension is best, it doesn’t take you out of the house, but you're out of the living area. This seems to suit everyone. But let's get back to the garage. A normal single garage is at least 1Bit. xBft., some are 20ft. x 10ft. This is a very convenient site for a model railway, not too big to create problems, large enough to give plenty of scope. The problem is getting rid of the car. (One answer is 10 convert it into a double garage. If there is sufficient room, this is the ideal answer becatise, providing you have access to a public road, then there will be no problem getting planning 96 permission. On top of this, if you ever need to sell the house, you'll see most, if not all of your money back. ‘A more economical answer, where possible is to erect a car port. Modern cars are supposed to be ‘much better if left out in the open, apparently the mositure they bring into a garage doesn’t do them any good either. Of course, this can only work if the garage is located to the rear of the house. A rather simple solution is to sell the car. If you have reasonable public transport, it will probably save money. You can pay for a lot of taxis with the £50 licence fee, while the insurance will meet most of the necessary fares. You'll save on the garage bills and petrol, and have a couple of thousand pounds with which to build the railway. To be continued. A coner of the narrow gauge section of Dave Howsam Porthleven Model Mechanics, March 1979Baseboards Erect in Number Order Logs 44 Legs on Baseboard 1 2 Legs on al others Comer Cupboard Model Mechanics, March 1979Removeable Baseboards Fig 2 Overhang at back of Bookcase Baseboard Folding Lea » Figs Model Mechanics, March 1979Building a replica of Hero’s Engine by Basil Harley ONE OF MY INTERESTS is collecting ‘early steam driven toys and, whilst many are_now rare and of great charm, Unfortunately the oldest of them all is not collectable since it no longer exists. This was Hero's Engine, the archetype reaction steam turbine known by reputation or illustration to every student ‘of mechanical engineering — at least, it ‘was in my student days. So this month | ‘am going to describe the construction of the working replica shown in the heading picture which anyone with @ small lathe ‘and some metalworking experience can make. | shall not be giving very detailed stop by stop instructions to be slavishly followed, rather | shall tell how | made my sion and leave plenty of scope for individual ideas and experiments. Hero, or Heron, was a Greok philosopher who flourished in Alexandria ‘about the end of the first century AD so its not surprising that none of his artifacts hhas survived. His ingenuity produced a umber of fire operated ‘toys’ which intrigued and impressed not only his Contemporaries but generations of people ever since. As woll 3s his famous steam engine, his inventions included a ‘machine’ for automatically opening temple doors when the altar fire was li According to traditional descriptions the former consisted of a boiler with two vertical supports on the top between Which could rotate a small copper sphere. One of the supports wes hollow and ‘conveyed steam from the boller, via the bearing, to the sphere from which it Issued trom two diametrically-opposed jets tangential to the axis. Thus the ball spun round by the reaction to the emerging steam. A good model of this is fon display at the Science Museum, London. How Hero made @ steartight joint neatly 2000 yeers ego without excessive friction | don’t know and many of the later versions (and they have been legion) avoided the problem, as | have done, by ‘making the sphere itself the boiler. The engine was often called an Aeoliple — literally “A Sphere of the Winds’ and | have taken for my model the 19th century version illustrated in 8 book of elementary mechanics shown in Fig 1. There were many others, some made of glass (two of which | have in my collection) and some were even patented. Fig 2 shows the drawing from Charles Sutton’s Patent No 2901 dated 1866. In the early days patent examination and search was pretty superficial, so the fact that Hero had priority wasn't really bothered about. Even so, i's quite astonishing that it was 100 considered worth the trouble and expense 10 cover the idea; a note on the drawing indicated that the original was pertiy coloured too. Blue water and pink spirits, pethaps! A fairly recent example was ‘mede about twelve years ago, partly of plastic and with an aluminium sphere, by Triang-Lionel who sold it as a kit of parts to be made up at home. Our starting point will be the copper sphere and for this there exists the very thing, ready made, in the form of a copper ball from a domestic ballcock. The standard size is about 4)4in in diameter ‘and it should be possible to find @ Perfectly satisfactory used one in your ‘Model Mechanics, March 1979” local plumbers/builders’ yard. The bigger ironmongers and plumbers’ suppliers will bbe able to provide a new one if necessary for something just over £1.60 but be sure to get a copper one — some modern ones for loos are now made of plastic. ‘A threaded socket will be found to be soldered on the ball and this needs removing with the help of a gas torch or the lke taking care not to get the ball hot 50 that the solder holding the two hemisphers together melts. Then, particulary if tis @ secondhand one, it will heed cleaning. For this, one of the new Proprietory cleaners or @ few hours in a mixture of vinegar and salt should make a ‘good impression and a wire seratchbrush wil help too. Now the first thing to be done is to mark out and drill four holes in the ball, two for the shaft on which it will spin and ‘two for the jets tube. Whilst we are not making a precision instrument itis necessary to have a reasonably well balanced ball that will not be visibly eccentric when running. | marked the holes for the spindle by using the lathe as follows. the three chuck jaws (perhaps reversed, it depends on its size) are ‘opened widely so that the ball, when ‘offered up to them, is supported equally between them. The tailstock centre is brought up so that, when the lathe is pulled round by hand (do not switch the ‘motor on) the joint at the ‘equator’ revolves. without wobbling. A pointer 2 ow ena tn Fig 3a Marking out copper sphere for spindle Fig 3b Marking out copper sphere for steam jets tube Model Mechanics, March 1979 fixed in the toolholder will help here as indicated in Fig 3 (a). A number of adjustments to the ball and the position of the tailstock centre will have to be made beforeitis right. Then, with care force the entre reasonably hard into the copper ‘and you will have a ‘centre mark’. This ‘can then be driled 1/8in dia. later to be ‘opened out to 1/4inch. The other hole is marked and driled in exactly the same way except that the chuck is removed, a headstock centre put in to locate the already drilled hole and the tailstock Centre again used to mark the second hole. ‘The two 3/16in holes for the jets tubo ‘are marked out on the equator joint in the same way, the fixed pointer in this case ensuring thet the two spindle holes already driled are at 90° to the jot axis as shown in Fig 3 (b) Itis perfectly possible to make use of a Lyles Golden Syrup tin instead of the copper ball but it does not look very elegant. In this caso the jets tube goes through the tin half way up and the pivot spindle through the centre of the lid and the bottom. But do use a ball if you can. Whichever you use, a Bin longth of 1/4in dia. brass rod forms the spindle, each end being faced and centred in the lathe with @ standard Slocumbe centring drill — 1/6in isa suitable size. The jets tube is a 73s length of 3/16in dia, copper tube (or 5/32in would do if you have suitable taps and dies). The steam must be collected near the centre of the ball since the circumference will be covered by a layer of boiling water held by centrifugal force when the engine is running at full speed. It is best then, to ‘make the jets from a single tube with the centre filed away to allow the steam to ‘emerge. First chuck the tube in the lathe ‘and, preferably with a tallstock dieholder, ‘thread 3/16in x 40 tpi for about 1/4in on each end for the nozzles. Copper is @ ‘sticky’ metal to machine and the use of paraffin as @ cutting lubricant will make the threads come clean. Now mark the centre of the tube and file a flat about 1 inch wide as shown in Fig 4, cleaning out the holes on either side to leave no swart to block the jets. Since the projecting parts of the tube will ater have to be bent tangentially, about 1%in at each end ‘must be fully annealed. This is done by heating to red in a gas flame and then Cooling — either quickly or slowly, it doesn’t matter which — in just the same way that the copper pop-pop tube was softened for the launch Daisy which | described last month. Now isa good time to make the nozzles themselves since they will protect the now rather soft threads on the tube during the bending operation. Fig 5 shows that thesa are turned, driled and tapped 3/16in x40 tpi from a length of 1/Ain brass rod — either round or, if you have it in stock, hexagonal, There is room for some experiment about the actual jet size but a useful start is to make them ‘about the size of a domestic pin. The ap ee Fig 4 Jets tube 3/16in aia copper 1 off SLES) in 132i di tappro0) Fig 5 Jet nozzles brass har 2 off 4 / by v Fig 6 difficulty here is that drills of this size are ‘not easily obtained and are naturally very fragile. A rough and ready method that | have used successfully is to shape the nozzle as shown, dil with the smallest drill available, 1/32in preferably and certainly not larger than 1/16in. Then, with the rounded and polished end of a piece of steel held in the toolholder at Centre height and with the lathe running at top speed this hole can be ‘pushed’ or ‘spun till itis vinually closed up. To size it, an ordinary domestic pin from the sewing box is put in for the final push. Since the nozzles can be unscrewed when the engine is finished the same technique ‘can be used to alter the size of the jets should this be desirable. One or two attempts may have to be made to get @ ‘900d pair of matching nozzles. ‘Two ornamental pillars are needed 10 fact as pivot supports for the sphere, ‘mounted on a suitable baseboard; mine is a piace of oak Bin by § Jin by Tin thick but almost any piece will do. It wil look better if neatly chamfered on the top edges and the corners. Ifthe pillars are made now 101they will be ready to hold the ball for balancing before itis soldered up. Hardly ‘any dimensions are critical and much can be left to individual ingenuity in their design. Much also will depend on the contents of the scrap box since it is not necessary to use expensive materials. In Fig 7 | have sketched pillars made from lenghts of 3/4in diameter steel electrical Conduit with mild steel bases and finials, all of which material | happened to have available, Solid bar would be perfectly satisfactory for the pillars if it is easily acquired. The spigots on the bases ore ‘made a tight fit in the tubes as are those fon the finials. All can be Loctited or soft soldered together before being finally polished on the lathe. Holes for fixing ‘erows in the bases are drilled and tapped — say 1/4inx40 TP and similarly the holes for the pivots are drilled and tapped in the pillars any small fine threads to suit; 3/16in x40 TPI as used for the nozzles ‘would do very wall. The fixed pivot is, screwed home firmly, the other is adjust- able (with a locknut) so that the sphere can spin freely with the minimum of friction. This is a good point at which to check the sphere for balance. First, tin the jets tube and the spindle where they will go through the bal, and also tin round the holes in the ball itself. Copper and brass are among the easiest metals to join by soft soldering but only after careful and clean tinning. Now thread the jets tube through the holes in the ball, screw the nozzles on and make sure it projects equally each side. The spindle is then pushed through the other holes; alittle juggling may be needed here to getit clear of the filed centre part of the tube, All should be tight enough not to move easily whilst the whole assembly is ‘mounted on the pivots and spun round to ‘check for balance. Having got it as nearly right as possible by pushing the tube to ‘one side or the other solder it in position without moving it and then similarly solder the spindle in place. This is best done with a small gas torch, using only as. much solder as is necessary to make sound, steamtight joints. If you have ‘some form of compressed air, even a tyre ‘pump will do, put a fingor over one end of the tube and blow down the other whilst immersing the lot in water. Any bubbles, will show where holes are stl to be sealed with solder ‘To complete your Sphere of the Winds bend the tube where it comes out ‘tangentially, as shown in Fig 6 taking care not to produce kinks. A 3/din diam bar will help to get a nice curve and if itis a little too stiff for the fingers or a piece of ‘wood to manage, a short length of tube slipped over the nozzles can act as a lever. Do make sure they both point in the right direction! It was the inefficiency of these engines that prevented them from ever having ‘much practical use though attempts were made early in the 19th century to drive circular saws by huge versions needing ‘areat fires. Our version, too, needs a fair amount of heat and the ‘twin bumer methylated spirit lamp shown in Fig.8 is, necessary to provide enough steam. The lamp shown on the contents page is ‘an early vapourising burner from a German Marklin. steam plant which 1 happened to have available. It gives enough heat to run the engine at about 100 rpm for something like ten minutes. The lamp described here will do much the have designed it to give adequate heat without flaring and in such @ way that the ball will be heated as evenly as possible. ‘The jet tubes spin round between the burners so the steam won't blow the flames out. There is no reason why a ‘small tin box should not be adapted if something suitable can be found. On the ‘other hand it won't take long to make up the one illustrated from a flattened sheet of tinplate which can be got from any fruit ‘or soup can. Mark out with a seriber on ‘the unpainted side and cut to shape with a pair of tinsmith’s snips or astout (old) pair of scissors. To make a good job of the bends use a wooden block, cut to the Inside dimensions and bend up the sides sharply. The corners are soft soldered and it will be found a great help to have four pieces of wire 3/4in long (lengths from a {galvanised wire coat hanger are ideal) to ‘act as fillets and strengthenors in the corners. The lid is cut out and bent up in exactly the same way with the holes drilled for the filer bush and the bumer tubes. This is ‘made fractionally bigger all round so that it can be fitted and soldered over the box. ‘The burner tubes can be short lengths of brass tube or, since this is getting increasingly expensive, there is no reason why pieces of the tinplate should not be rolled round a bit of wooden dowel of the right diameter and soldered in, ‘A propor filer bush and plug should be made from a short length of 3/8in brass bar as sketched in Fig 8, @ simple enough turning, driling and screwing operation. Don't forget to drill a small hole for ventilation in the plug otherwise the lamp wil not burn properly as the spirit is ‘consumed. Itis a good idea to fil he lamp with water to check that it doesn’t leak before putting the spirit in. The butner tubes should now be packed with lengths of cotton wick, still obtainable at ironmongers’ shops, particulary the rather older fashioned ‘ones to be found in country towns. The fiame size depends in part on how high the wick projects above the tube outlet and in part on how tightly itis packed +00 tightly wil inhibit the flow of spirit t0 the flame. | have not thought it necessary to provide a handle for the lamp nor 10 fasten it down in any way to the baseboard. Vibration should be very low if ‘the bal is well balanced, and in any case it doesn't go very fast. A coat of biack paint Fig 7 Base coh fn8l npg an 24 vi, a mild steel te bisa | ay =) a faeaenocs | Je sianey low {t Ce : Veda f a 3 | co , ster assembty ‘3/4 steet conduit Tight fit in conduit ide} i NS . i se 4 J ai (er ee ie De 102 Adjustable pivot screw threaded 3/16in x 40TP! brass or M.S. 1 off Fixed pivot screw threaded 3/16in x 40TPI brass or M.S. 1 off ‘Model Mechanics, March 1979will help the appearance of the lamp, and the bases of the pillars too, perhaps. With everything else polished quite an attractive model wil result, Funning the engine is obviously perfectly easy — put water in the ‘boiler, meths in the lamp and wait for the kettle. to boll. By those more familiar with conventional model engines however, ‘Wo questions might be asked. How do you fill the ball and where is the safety valve? You fill it by putting one nozzle in a ‘cup of water and sucking through the ‘other. This ensures without doubt that Filler bush and plug — brass 180 =a) ian Any 1/80 an sinha rit and tan 1/8 « soTPL both jets are clear — if either is blocked than no water can get in and no steam can be produced, For this reason a conventional safety valve is not necessary. Working pressure with the lamp shown and two pinhole jets is unlikely to exceed 8/10 psi. On hydraulic test the ballin the photograph withstood I didn’t test it to destruction since it was the only one I had at the time. It is often forgotten that simple methylated spirit lamps don’t generate enough heat to raise boiler prossures to very high values. Don’t put more than a coffee cup full of Di 1/32 for vent Tend 1/8in« AOTP! ain = eee: Ye, ee on nai ' ' a 7 ad | ig ain Shah aa artnet ——— 414i 2 aitine! Fig 8 Spirit lamp tinplate 1 off ‘water in otherwise it will take a long time to boil and will in any case be very sluggish, Once steam starts fizzing out of the jets a slight push will start it spinning. If steam stops coming out, remove the lamp because this will mean that all the ‘water has boiled away and some of the solder might melt. [tis @ very interesting ‘roy’ to possess, will attract a lot of attention and you will be surprised how many of your friends will prove to be unacquainted with Newton's third law of mation, Burner tes brass Foie bes “To fit over bottom box — check dimensions from the soldered — up box. Solution to last month’s Third Angle Projection task Model Mechanics, March 1979Electric R/C Car Racing Typical body on Mardave car ONE OF THE DIFFERENT things about 1/12th scale electric r/c car racing is that you can race in practically any medium-sized hall With a smooth floor, a gymnasium, @ school hall, a ballroom, a drill hall, indeed eny place with’ enough room for a couple of badminton courts. Another thing is that racing takes place for the most part in the mid-week evenings when halls are not quite so much in demand as at weekends. Where to go and see some racing must be the next thought. Your local model shop should be able to help here with information. If there is no club racing in the immediate vicinity then this is the focal spot to get it started plus the help of the local newspaper. Failing this drop @ line to Tony Devenport, 200. Windmill Road, Coventry CV6 78E who is secretary of the newly formed Electric. R/C Car Racing Association which will be handling affairs, hopefully in affiliation with the British Radio Car Association. But very many would-be racers will have already seen the sport in ‘operation at the Model Engineer Exhibition and will be eager to make a start themselves. At the momment there is @ choice of three British made kits: Mardave, Lectricar and 104 by ‘Dickie’ Laidlaw-Dickson Spectron. Imported kits include Bo- Link, Associated, Jerobee, M.R.P. Which all come from | U.S.A., though they will have acquired a few Japanese parts en route. Indeed all the motors currently in use are of Japanese origin. More expert modellers may feel an urge to produce their own design car but this is not recommended as a start, since in any event most of the parts such as wheels, tyres, motors will have to be acquired commercially, and you will have a better bargain buying a complete kit. All the cars mentioned perform well, though some demand more skilful handling. For the beginner | would recommend one of the lower priced outfits, which start at £37.50 for the Mardave. Here you get a chassis ready drilled in alloy, wheels and tyres, steering gear with cross beam, kingpins, stub axles and track rods plus a fail-safe device to protect your servo. Then there is the electric motor with spur gear and main gear wheel, about 5:1 ratio, a set of ni-cad batteries, which are rechargeable, speed controller and a choice’ of body, plus. miscellaneious connecting rods, screws, nuts and bolts, not forgetting the excellent assembly instructions. In addition, recharging ame eirpied es youre al Piro teeeeh atte ee valine natant Pad eae eee eee eae tants Hee te eRe sa ae eren Read ane pee ee meena. ae RSM arse ote BR eas et eae Pier acer eds er hn ine oe You wil be Pee eee enue Se oe ae NS) al Se Ah abe mek ante tet eee tan ten BAS cr orcumrnuea tices Se eae eed eee eau neue ee ca ae vacant Pie eenarer ceo ieee He eed eee a meconeaed ‘enamels or Lexan approved paints. Se aren erated a ee po ates uees i Model Mechanics, March 1979 iA aSteering on Mordave car with self Steering of Lectricar with clever Chassis and layout of Jerobee and centering springing which can be spring loaded failsafe Bo-Linkcar adjusted. Latest Associated RCIRE car now being distributed by Irvine Engines Model Mechanics, March 1979 105Mardave speed control arm from servo to the swinging bar has not been connected. Radio equipment will be needed, plus a 12 volt car or motorcycle battery. The latter is preferred being much smaller and lighter and holding enough charge for your needs, It can be trickle charged with a mains charger. between times. Choice of radio is almost limitless, and if you already have equipment used for boats or aircraft this will do spendidly. Two channels oniy ere Fequired plus two servos. Demands are less severe with 1/12th car than for larger 1/8th i.c. use When buying equipment any of the lower priced sets are adequate but | would mention Digiace, MRC, Talisman, Skyleader in their lower priced fanges still around £70. If you are also thinking of outdoor use with 1/8th_ scale then Futaba or MacGregor gear would be a wise choise. If you feel like something a little more expensive, then the Lectricar can be yours for just under £45. This is very similar to. the Mardave in specification but just that little bit more de luxe that you would expect from the price difference. Again it has both forward and reverse and all the items mentioned with Mardave. These two makes, though lower in price than the others, have during 106 the past season managed to win most of the racing series arranged, 50 do not hesitate even if you do feel a potential racing ace. ‘More sophisticated modellers who would like to go right to the top from the start can consider Bo-Link for example. This company, with Jerobee, were the original devisers of this form of racing and have @ very long history of success in USA. Here the chassis is plastic (designed for 1/12th scale glowplug powered cars and so very strong, though flexible) and the choice ‘again is there for rheostat speed control. However, the more usual approach is to have a “black box” with 3 proportional speed control circuit builtin, This provides forward speed and dynamic braking, and via_a voltage regular enables the Ax battery to be dispensed with as well ‘as the servo actuating the speed control, The additional cost of the equipment is largely offset by the saving on dispensing with one servo ‘and receiver battery, plus the ‘advantage of weight saved. Equipment such as this will cost up to nearly twice as much as the Lectricar ready to go. You will lose your reverse however, though experts say there is more interference from cars backing out then edvantage gained by ft in iho mie range” of prices, thore ‘othe, Ameria” Assoeiated, Wiigh Gould be called the pretest of the cor ike 2 minature 1/8th car tien aslo plate and forward engine IGeaton “ig comes as a bare kit proviin chassis, radio pate, steering, wheek Sha ayes, goats pus mute and bolts Motor, ifeostit or proportional SGuipment and nicads wil heve to be prowcod soparatoly. The means tat hough wre pice fs low, when the salina! parts have. been acquired there realy nothing much in For the aver who atesdy hes some of the ports itis 2 good buy Oh the ‘Bri fromt the new soeeuon is supplied compete with Smocthtvonic, proportional. contol bral he cossary pars, This hos @ Sitar polyoarbonete, chassis pete, Sha’ Smbadios ‘design features Govoloped ‘over the pest eighteen sronthe on the track by is designer. Pro e jst undor £77 ‘Ready theres spend range of donee wate tb jhe echusost with special emphasis on wines and tyres, Different. tack iifaces ‘reaute. tyres of "varying Sapo of hardness’ and much ofthe soutees “or otherwiae. of 2 deNor Spends on Ws wise chote of tes, ‘Teetmodal box wil thrctore normaly any"a choice of tyres in aevera! lagees of pamess. Yo got achosion Cresippery batfootn foots it usual) {sped scone rubber on tho tyros fist how much is 2, mater of experience and knowiedge of 2 panioular venue. “There. are many Siher le dodges and tricks of he trade whieh make elect car racing more than just putting the car down dre eting tear round or the surmmer months outdoor racing ie aso" possible here the ‘Shot playground or carpark comes into te own, But bowarel Asphalt ‘Miaces give much more grip but ae Sony rd on tyros so be sure you do ot use your best soft tyres fr such facing bur select much harder ones But wherever you race ~~ and ecing fe he name of he game — Tam sure you will find a great deal of Geckement ‘on the ‘rack, and_ an famerse amount of fun at home ih fhoworishop fetting up the ie cat for te next outing CHANGE OF OFFICERS Following their Annual General Meeting RADIO STOCK CAR ASSOCIATION officers are now: Chairman: Mark Bye, 63 Heathiel South, Twickenham Mic (01-89-6634) Secretary: Mike Varley, 10 Briarwood Road, Riddlesden, Keighley, Yorks. Model Mechanics, March 1978 ; BaWHILE PLANNING the contents of Mode! ‘Mechanics our Editor conceived the idea of a regular featura introducing, people, places and items relating to the interests Of our readers that | encounter when on ‘my many visits. Often, of course, they will bbe concerned with overseas destinations, principally in the USA. and Europe, but they will also take in some of the excursions made in our own country Normally such an introductory paragraph as this would have appeared in the first issue preceding any of my writings but time overtook our efforts and 2s you know the “Cass Railroad” was featured. There is nothing wrong in making the introductions after the story has started for itis now common practice in films and television circles. A little personal background for those to whom | am not known will not come amiss for in this sort of series some JIM’S TRAVELS Identification with the writer helps the reader, perhaps it will also provide an explanation of why the Editor picked on ‘me to provide the material. Travel and contact. with fellow enthusiasts have always been a part of my life end were aided in the days before retirement when | ‘was an engineer on International Tolex because of the many contacts that | made with my opposite numbers elsewhere. Retirement from Telecommunications in 1975 brought me to the job of Model Engineer Exhibition Manager and again ‘my contacts increased. Added to both ‘these factors is the other one of my being Intemationel Secretary of the Model Power Boat Association, and finally, family ties in the United States give me al ‘the incentive to travel at least once a year to that country. Having retired from my lest job in January 1978 theoretically | should now have more time for both ‘model engineering and travel but the man who said that he did not have time to go to work never spoke a truer word and, while | have not achieved as much 2s | would like in both spheres, | hope to share ‘my future activities with you, my readers. Photography will play large partin this series and | hope that they wll help many in their search for accuracy for | will ry ‘and use photographs thet will help the model engineer in_his work with an ‘emphasis on detail fat all possible. Not all the stories will be of overseas subjects ‘and in order to provide a balance between the two USA subjects of last and next month | am going back a litle in time to when | last made a visit to one of my favourite preservation venues, that of the Keighley and Worth Valley at Howarth, in Yorkshire. With easy access to the sidings alongside the depot this is a place where the rolling stock that is under or awaiting repair is right in front of the visitor and although at times | have heard some adverse criticism of the site| feo! that the freedom to have a “look see” is worthwhile. When | was there, in arly 7B, there were several interesting projects under way. At the entrance to the shed they had an ex LMS 4F 0-60 loco and tender being stripped before the task of “’sectionalising’” them was undertaken for the National Railway Museum. At least | think it was for that museum, perhaps if | ‘am wrong someone will corract me. With the lagging removed from the boiler the ‘construction becomes more apparent ‘and the great amount of riveting that exists in such a comparatively small tengine will be an eye-opener to many. What a contrast to our own smal boilers where current practice is to eliminate 4F 0-6:0 being prepared for sectionalising Model Mechanics, March 1878fivets in favour of an all hard soldered or welded construction More boller work was visible further down the yard where the boiler for a ‘Stanior 2-6-4 Tank was ying on its said by become a little more obvious and the reasons for abandonment of some of the ‘more fanciful schemes apparent. The problems of keeping such a pressure vessel steam tight by caulking in the firebox. A much earlier example of the boiler maker was to be seen on a partly dismantied 0-6-0 Tank almost next to the ‘Stanier and although a much more simple arrangement of riveting, the skill of the the chassis from which it had been temoved, Itis a much larger boiler and itis when one sees the pieces of a lerge steam locomotive at close quarters that the difficulties of the task of restoration 108 treditional fashion must have bean dificult for the early builders and one ‘must admire the work of our immediate forefathers in contemplation of the massed rows of rivets on the tanker’s makers still showed through. A much later example of locomotive design in the shape of @ Bulleid West Country 7) Pocific was being restored and was standing on a track adjacent to the sheds. Model Mechanics, March 1979With its cladding removed and shorn of its trailing wheels it was very much of 2 contrast to the days | remember when West Country locomotive being restored Sampson 06-0 St Model Mechanics, March 1979 Merchant Navy Class engines operated ‘out of Waterloo, and could be seen from the office window at Vauxhall. Also when the other Bulleid Pacific were in general use on the smallest of the pre-nationalised groups, the Southern Railway, and | hope that restoration will be to the "ait ‘smoothed casing” state as designed and in the original “malachite” green. Southor greens wore always attractive to many, so much so that after a visit to the UK in 1925, Fairfax Harrison, President of ‘that other Southern Railway, in the USA, ‘was so impressed that he decreed that the U.S. Southern’s passenger loco's should be dressed up in the same way as their UK counterpart and if you are ever in Washington, D.C.,.go to the Smithsonian Museum of History and Science to see how magnificent a big US Pacific looks in this livery. The engine, a Pacific of Southern Railway Class Ps4 was built in 1928 one year after the Harrison visit and is finished in tho complete paint job with gold fining, aluminium ining to. the running boards, aluminium painted smokebox and highly polished motion ‘work. This locomotive was one of the ten ss, used in pairs, that hauled President Roosevelt's funeral train in April 1946, ‘Seomingly | have strayed a litle away from the wilds of Yorkshire but not really for the same keeness to present the steam locomotive in. the fashion that we all respect pervades the activities on the K & W.V.fly. as a look at another American built loco that operates on the line will soon show. | refer of course to the ex ‘Southampton Dock 0-6-0T shunter that ‘operates on the line, Built in the U.S.A. for WW2 use in docks and army depots, these machines were in the days of Conflict hard working, dirty objects, but the results of much effort by tha restorers show how even the humblest shunter, albeit of North American origin, can look after receiving cosmetic treatment. Interesting to s8e here is the differing ‘approach to a common problem, that of providing useful shunting power, by the British and the Americans, for it happens that often No 72 can be seen coupled to No 118, “Brussels”, which came from the Longmoor Military Raliway and is typically British of 0-60 wheel formation, inside cylinders and saddle tank conirasting with the side tanks and outside cylinders of No 72, The engineman’s protection is also contrasting for the yank was ‘obviously designed with the thoughts of North American winters in mind, the cab having side windows that can be closed Unlike the cab side sheets of the British engine. Saddle tanks are popular engines on preserved lines as general maids of all work and lined up with the other tanks was “Sampson” being made ready for service and this 0-60St made an interesting comparison with Black Five 46212 lined up on an adjoining track also waiting to go into service. Altogether a place to which one returns and I'am one who will do just that to see how much change is taking place and to support them in their efforts Jim King 109Measurement By Alan Carter A SLIDE CALIPER GAUGE may be used for the taking of outside measurements. It has two jaws, one moving along a bar on which there is a horizontal scale. The moving jaw has a fine edge or mark on it the line object which is held between the jaws. A double scale slide gauge has two scales, one for inside and fone for outside measurements. Its jaws have projections on them of @ known dimension to go inside the inside edges of objects for example, a tube. The merk on the movable jaw to indicate the size of the internal measurement cannot be in the same position as that which indicates the size of objects placed between the jaws. it corresponds to the width of the projections when the jaws are completely closed. If the smallest gap into which the jaws will enter is half an inch it will be opposite the half inch line on the scale. ‘A depth gauge may be fitted to a slide caliper gauge, and is connected to the movable jaw. When the mark is at one inch on the scale the depth gauge protrudes one ineh from the end of the bar. The slide caliper gauge may be fitted with a Vernier scale which is a means of registering increments too fine to be engraved on the scale. Figure 2 shows a section of a scale measuring to one thousandth of an inch, The top scale is marked in fiftieths of an inch. A thousandth is Fig 1. Double scale slide gauge ‘one twnentieth of each division. On the bottom scale twenty divisions correspond to nineteen of the larger divisions on the top scale, each one being one thousandth of an inch smalier. To read the scale, the jaws of the caliper area closed upon the object to be measured, the top scale read, and in this case it shows 6 qi reading of two inches. The numb ‘of Vernier divisions on the bottom scale beyond that are counted to give the number of thousandths of ‘an inch, starting at the point at which two bar divisions coincide, A, and counting towards the start of the scale, There are fourteen. The measurement is two inches and fourteen thousandths — 2.014" ‘A micrometer is used for taking very small measurements. accurately, the principle _ being based upon a screw thread. The main parts of the _ outside micrometer, Figure 3 are the spindle, A, to which is attached the thimble, B; the sleeve, C, and the anvil, On the Sleeve is a 110 Fig. 2 Section of Vernier Scale @ Model Mechanics, March 1979 ia a a ahorizontal scale, the small divisions each equal to one fortieth of an inch, or twenty-five one hundreths of an inch. One revolution of the thimble, B, reveals one division, every fourth division is numbered and equivalent to one tenth of an inch. On the edge of the thimble are twenty-five small divisions each equivalent to one one thousandth of an inch. When the micrometer is measuring nothing the thimble is at zero on the sleeve. The micrometer is held with the top joint of the third finger of the right hand placed inside the frame, the thimble held upright operated by the thumb and forefinger of the same hand. The object to be measured is held lightly between the spindle and the anvil. Each large division on the sleeve that is revealed Is equivalent to one tenth of an inch, each division past zero on on the thimble is a further onethousandth of an inch. In figure 4 the reading is 0.146in ‘The micrometer can give a measure- ment accurate to 1/10,000th of an inch by the addition of a verier scale to the Model Mechanics, March 1979 Fig 3 Micrometer Fig. 6 mtsleeve, the divisions parallel to those of the thimble. Figure § illustrates such 2 scale, The reading is 0.2522in.. Depth micrometers are used for the measurement of depth to a high standard of accuracy. Using the same type of scale as the outside micrometer. The metric micrometer normally gives accuracy to one one hundredth of a millimetere, The sleeve is marked in millimetres, each fifth one marked by 2 longer fine up to twenty-five millimetres. There are fifty turns of the thimble to that_mark so that each turn is equivalent to half a millimeve. There is a division on the sleeve equivalent to half a millimetre between each of the millimetre marks. The thimble is divided into fifty divisions and each fifth one is marked so that each of the fifty divisions on the thimble is equivalent to one hundredth of a millimetre. ‘Accuracy is determined by the price of the instruments used. A cheap diecast micrometer is accurate to the stated standard but could distort in time affecting accuracy, The expensive micrometer made of steol or cast iron is almost impervious to wear. Dividers are used for the taking of measurements between two points, They can step off distances. The points of dividers are ground at an included angle of fifteen to twenty-five degrees. They can be measured or set accurately in a micrometer or on @ slide caliper gauge Inside spring calipers are used for the measurement of the inside surfaces of objects, there are two types, firm joint and spring type. The firm joint type may be sprung several thousandths of an inch between: surfaces and they have rigidity. Spring calipers with spring adjustment may be set finely. They ‘can be used to measure a recess, or a hole behind a small diameter “bottleneck” by pressing the calipers together against the spring. They can be inserted and withdrawn without altering the caliper setting. Inside spring calipers are held between finger and thumb near to the pivot point and are rocked crosswise to ensure that the measurement is taken at the maximum diameter Outside spring calipers of the firm joint and spring types are used for 12 the measurement of the outside of an object. They are held near to the pivot point between finger and thumb. One point is held against the object, the other moved along the ‘object’ until the finest limit of accuracy is reached, both points touching the object lightly. Fig 7 Dividers Fig 6 Depth Micrometer Fig 8 Inside Calipers Model Mechanics, March 1979ie Fig 9 Outside Calipers Fig 10 Surface plate, surface gauge and angle plate Model Mechanics, March 1979 Marking Out lron and steel and similar metals which would not show lines made by a scriber clearly are coloured with @ ‘copper sulphate solution or another marking out fluid such as Prussian blue, red lead, white wash, applied with 2 cloth. Copper sulphate solution is made from one ounce of copper sulphate salt to four ounces of water and several drops of nitric acid, A white wash can be made from whiting desolved in alchohol to the consistency of a thin paint. Copper sulphate is not now as easy to obtain as when it appeared in all boys’ chemistry sets. Any good engineers’ merchants will stock blue dye sold specifically for marking out and this is to be recommended. Although Prussian Blue can be used it is intended more for use on a surface plate to show high spots on 2 piece of worked material ‘Accurate marking out depends upon a flat surface, and is achieved more readily using a surface plate. This is used in conjunetion with an angle plate, which supports the workpiece in a vertical plain. A surface gauge is used to scribe lines parallel to the surface plate by setting the point of the scriber at the desired height, bringing it into contact with the workpiece, the face of the surface gauge being held ‘against the surface plate and moved slowly, so that the scriber makes a line on the workpiece. ‘A vee block is used to support round bars. To find the centre of a round bar set the scriber of a surface gauge to the estimated centre and scribe a line. Rotate the work through 180_ degrees and mark a second line. Turn the bar through 90 degrees and repeat the process, fotate another 180 degrees and 13Finding the centre of a circle using a compass. Dial gauge Punch for marking centres “ scribe once more. The diagonals of OD the ‘square formed cross et. the Thee eget pectrcin Jon Salger used sebe tines pera ci eget’ peso Dergiateie aiet ee tea mnrking ena fem'e poston a ead of s worpoes oe pars ote chee of io varstar's Sitenson ton poositeg nae ment the mone pret ie eonoathg mae Pen afd sotng i oi ts Info: the neat of she ong raed by lage comeced fo 2 ‘rel contr biton ons angst To ta of te ipstument The dl we muion ee carpet ee ‘Shbing Bock wit ts contact Baton agi tolehing “ths pt to be checked, the plunger per- Rosa st ot sro Te soa Ina lok foe, nora orga In one toussndin oat eh de Sorel te peste rest oe plus side of the dial by increased 7 Protein on conn, en Bie‘ of ibe al by decreaeed pro Sees wil ose nen Tin, and 2in. Micrometers 114 ‘Model Mechanics, March 197348th Model Engineer Exhibition The Exhibition was officially opened by Stirling Moss 0.B.E., who also presented the Duke of Edinburgh Challenge Trophy. This was awarded to Mr. G. Hartung who is 84 years of age, for his spendid model of a Starboard Engine and Part Hull of an American Stern-wheeler. Mr. Stirling Moss getting up steam } Mr. G. Hartung holding the Duke of Edinburgh Challange Trophy Q Model Mechanics, March 1979K. F. Clover — Bushey Heath 16 Scammell Recovery Vehicle W. B. H. Stevens — Tring Model Mechanics, March 1879“Savage” 3-a-Breast Gallopers R. G. Russell — Newport Ford ‘T’ Charabanc 1975 (Circa) 14 Seater C. Hall — Twickenham Model Mechanics, March 1979The Clown Lantern Clock K. Horsey—Addlestone J. E, Chantler— Weybridge Pit Scene (4 Figures & Lola Car) D. Saunders— Tunbridge Wells B.R. Standard Class 7 Pacific No. 70021 ‘Morning Star’ __J. R. Brierley — N. Lancing ‘B.M.W. R75/5 Motor Cycle E, J. Wharton— West Drayton 118 Essex Waggon E. H. Horne — iford Model Mechanics, March 1979Soldering By Les Bryant IT HAS BEEN FOUND by experience that if the following five rules are adhered to closely good sound joints will be made:— 4) Selection of solder. 2) Selection of flux. 3) Good joint. 4) Clean joint. 5) Correct heat. 1 will take each rule in turn to cover ‘most neads of the home worker but must stress that notes do not cover the soldering of aluminium and its alloys Oryx model 9 low voltage soldering iron Solders Most, ifnotal, solders are alloys of two ‘or more metals, the alloying being carried out to obtain @ set melting point. The molting point of the solder must be lower than that of the metals we wish to join or in applying it we shall malt the job. Consideration must be given to the strength of the joint and the use itis to be But, and whether the solder will have any effect on such things as food stuffs f they are to be kept in the finished job ie. soft (lead) solders are at the moment being investigated for lead poisoning from food cans which are invariably soldered with them. Also lead solders ace mechanically very weak and should not be used for pressure vessels j.2. bollers for steam engines. On the other hand, they are easily applied and make excellent electrical contacts and minor repairs. Appearance must also be considered, Particularly in art metal work. They can be selected so that they blend entirely with the job so that the joint becomes almost invisibie Perec o 7 oS ce Adcola 101 unit The Little Torch portable welding unit Model Mechanics, March 1979 119(1) Types of Solders (2) Lead or Soft Solders {An alloy of lead and tin Pewterer’s 95°C — 105°C This solder has @ small quantity of antimony added to obtain the very low ‘melting point. It is used only with work 195°C —248°C For joints in lead. In cooling it goes ‘through longish eutectic stage (plastic stage) allowing the solder to be formed (wiped) into shape. Tinman's 185°C—227°C ‘The most common and useful alloy. It is the strongest of the lead solders Ideal for electrical and mechanical joints which do nothave to carry heavy loads. (b)Silver Solders An alloy of copper, zinc and silver. Many fitms produce these solders each with its own range of melting point, names or code letters. tis best to buy them by quoting the melting points to ensure getting the correct grade for the job. All have considerable ‘mechanical strength similar to brass. | will ist only three to give some idea of the temperature range. EASY — 608°C—617°C Very fluid when motten, MEDIUM 650°C— 660°C Good working properties and strength. HARD — 705°C—723°C Not quite as fluid as those above and can be rather brittle when cold. (c) Brazing Melting point of _ spelter is 850°C—950°C. The solder is usually brass, although some spelters are form of bronze. Alloy—copper, zinc and sometimes a little tin. Suitable for copper and steels. ble mechanical strength. (2) Fluxes These chemicals are used to either dissolve oxides which form when the job is heated or to exclude the air so that oxidation cannot take place. They must remain in place until the joint is complete so fiuids and inflammable fluxes cannot be used at red heat. Passive Fluxes These only coat the joint and do not clean it Tallow — used with plumber's solder on lead — non-toxic Sal Ammoniac ‘containers. Resin — used on electrical wiring, will not ‘corrode even the finest wire and is clean 10 use with lead solders. Fluxite — A greasy flux — used for ‘general work. It contains some ‘active’ chemicals Borex — A white powder which will remain as aliquid film over the joint at red 120 the ideal flux for food heat. Standard flux for silver soldering and brazing. ‘Chemica’ brazing flux — a modified borax which does give better results at high temperatures. Active Fluxes ‘These dissolve the oxides as they form, but are usually corrosive so must be flushed away as soon as the joint has been made, They make soft soldering easy but should NOT be used on food contai Zine Chloride — must be diluted 1:1. Very Baker's Fluid — a modified zine chloride. A good flux for general work on most metals, (3) The Joint ‘Other than when lead is being wiped the solder should be quite fluid when the joint is being soldered. Large gaps in the joint will allow the solder to run through and to be lost. Any soldered joint must be a really good fit, allowing the solder to be drawn into it by capillary attractions. The solder will thus fill the whole joint. This will make the strongest join: (4) Cleanliness The joint must be bot mechanically and chemically cleaned, all ol, grease and oxides being removed. (6) The Correct Heat Both sides of the joint must be brought up to just above the melting point of the solder so that complete wetting of the metal is achieved. Too much heat will destroy some solders. Soft Soldering By far the cleanest and easiest method fof applying soft solder is by using 2 soldering ion provided the metal is not too heavy. Thick, large jobs are best done with some form of biow torch or lamp. When using a soldering iron examine the tip before starting. It should be smooth, clean and coated with a film of solder. Should the tip be pitted and dirty must be filed smooth and re-tinned. This ‘applies to a new iron end also to gas hated or electric Irons. To tin the tip the iron is heated to the melting point of the solder (check with the stick of solder), dipped in and out quickly in # tray of flux and rubbed on a piace of the solder, either direct from the stick or some placed on 3 piece of tin plate. ‘While the iron is reheating (do not allow ‘gas heated iron to get anywhere near ted heat) flux may be spread on the joint. The iron is now re-dipped in the flux tray ‘and will then pick up solder from the plate, It is applied to one end of the joint and held STILL until the solder can be s2en to flow onto the job. Now draw the iron slowly along the joint and the solder will run into the joint following the heat. When the solder supply runs out on the iton, redip and pick up mare solder (the gas heated iron may need reheating), and continue from where you left off until the joint is complete. Do not forget to wash off all races of flux, preferably with soap and water. For heavier work a gas torch or blow lamp should be used, but the solder is ‘applied from the stick. It is advisable to flatten the solder to @ thin section so better control of the amount of solder can be obtained. Only enough solder to thoroughly fll the joint is necessary. After ‘applying the flux, start heating the joint at fone end, as with the iron, taking the flame away occasionally to test if the job will melt off some solder when applied to it The stick of solder must never enter the flame. When some solder has melted onto the joint the flame is drawn elong the joint {and the solder will follow. Only add solder When movement of it stops. This w sound, smooth and strong joint will obtained, ‘One last word on soft solders. They are not strong enough to hold Butt joints, Model Mechanics, March 1979Straight ron lapping is absolutely necessary and in some cases where considerable strength is necessary seamed joints will have to be ‘made and soldered. ee ee Butt Seamed ‘Sweating This is the process of coating meeting faces of the joint with a thin film of solder before the joint is assembled either applied by iron or flame. When cold the joint is assembled with’ a wipe of flux between and then the whole is heated until the films mete, completing the joint. This is often used when several pieces of exactly the same shape are needed, the poces being sweated together, worked to shape and then separated by melting the solder when they can be knocked apart. Silver Soldering Silver solders are the ideal method of ‘jointing’ copper, brass, steel or silver provided that taking the job to red heat will do no damage. Electro:plated articles ‘cannot be repaired by this method unless the article can be replated after soldering, The process is simple provided all 5 of the rules are obeyed. The joints should be close and no burs left, small bevels on each meeting face will help the solder enter the joint. The borax flux, a white powder, should be mixed with water to @ thin paste and applied to the joint (1 use a ‘small water colour brush) if possible to both sides. The selected solder (see bbolow) may either be applied from the stick when the job is hot or in wire or pallion form before heating, a? Model Mechanics, March 1978 Hatchet Iron The tinned face ‘must be layed flat (on the joint. The joint and the surrounding metal should be heated very slowly to dry out the flux. Should it bol the flux will leave the joint and some oxidation may take place and the solder will not flow easily. ‘Aico it pallions are used they will be displaced from the oint. Once the flux has dried the job may be brought up to temperature to melt the solder into the joint. If the solder is applied from the stick the same procedure as with lead solder is sed, the solder never entering the flame but being melted off by the heat in the job. Care must also be taken to see that both sides of the joint are at the same temperature as the solder follows the heat i.e. the solder flowing onto one side of the bbeen heated and dipped into the flux. ‘After allowing the joint to harden (freeze) the job must be cleaned. The Usual treatment is to quench in cold water to crack off as much of the glass-like borax and then pickle in a dilute sulphuric ‘acid bath for about 10 minutes. A few ‘words of warning here — do not immerse 2 hot job into the pickle unless you are wearing complete rubber apron, gloves and face shield. Even then it can be very dangerous. It is best for beginners to buy their dilute (6 water ~ 1 acid) from a garage or chemist, but if you must mix your own remember aiways to add the acid to the water and very slowiy without splashing. ‘Should the acid splash onto anything of Value or yourself wash it off with copious supply of water as quickly as possible. ‘And do not forget the rubber gloves and at least a pair of goggles. ‘The range of solders shown in the tabla enable consecutive joints to be made by Using the grades in descending melting points i.e. hard, medium, easy, A litle thought in deciding the steps of assembly ccan often treble the number of soldered joints made on one complex job. The ilustration shows the method of assembling a small pot boiler, the numbers represent the steps of soldering joint. Should the solder not run in @ spot ‘or two it may be helped by scratching the ‘area with a pointed steel rod which has S.S. Pallions. ‘and the letters, the initials of the grades of soldering. — 1H, first joint, hard solder 26 3H 3H 1H 1H 2E 3H 3H Provided the heating is removed as ‘s00n as the solder has flowed properly then the previous joints should not be affected in any way. Brazing ‘This is the soldering process requiring the highest temperature and by far the strongest. It is mainly usad on steel structures. Of course it needs most heat 121‘and therefore the torch or blow lamp must be very efficient even for moderate sized jobs. The procedure is exactly the same as for siver soldering with one exception — do not pickle steel. It is best to remove ‘any remaining flux after quenching by chipping lightly with 2 small cross pein hammer. With all these procasses, practice ‘makes for perfection so try therm on scrap materials first before using them on @ costly, hard worked job. One last word of warning. Keep your soldering area clean particulary if you intend using both lead and silver solders. Lead solders have a disasterous effect on ‘copper or brass at red hea, FORTHCOMING EVENTS 4st March 1979 — 7.30 p.m. Newton Abbot & District M.E.S., Film night and chit-chat. St. Mary's Institute, Highweek Street, Newton Abbot. 3rd March 1979 — 14,00-18.00 Gauge ‘0’ Guild, Joint meeting with South Hants ‘0’ Gauge Group. Baptist Church Hall, Swan Lane, Winchester. (Running tracks and facilities for display of models) Srd-4th March 1979 Sat — 10 a.m.-7.30 p.m. Sun — 10 a.m.-5.30 p.m. Sutton Coldfield Railway Society. Annual Exhibition ~ Dunlop Hall, Fort Dunlop, Holly Lene, Erdington, Birmingham. 9th March 1979 — 7.00 p.m. Thames Shiplovers & Ship Model Society. Anchors, Winches & Deck Fittings for modellers. St. Botolphs Church Hall Bishopsgate, London EC2. 12 Meeting — United Reformed Church Hall, Colwyn Avenue, hos-on-Sea, Colwyn Bay. N. Wales M.ES. 12th March 1979 — 7.30 p.m. Modelmakers discussion night. Patrick Halls, Burgh Hall Street, Glasgow, Ciyde Shipiovers and M.M, Society 13th March. Meeting Night, Basingstoke & District M.E.S 48th March 1879 Saling & N. Wales M.E.S. 22nd March 1973 Specialist Vehicles, Mr. J. Poulter, member of the institute of Trangport Engineor wil tak on some ofthe unusual vehicles seen today. Sutton MES. Boat building by John Martin, 26th March 1979 Willesden & W. London S.M.E. Club Meeting, Model Mechanics, March 1979 ©28th March 1979 Harrow & Wembley S.M.E. Bits & Piaces and Bring & Run. St Andrews Hall 30th March 1979 — 7.30 p.m. Rugby S.M.E. Model Night (to be held in the main hall) Clubhouse, Hillmorton Community Centre 31st May 1979 Centenary of Electric Railways 1979. The Centenary of Electric Railways Committee is proud to announce that many events are to take place to mark the Centenary of Electric Railway Traction, which occurs on 31st May 1879. An exhibition showing the dovelopment of the electric railway and tremway over the past 100 years will visit major cities throughout Britain. Negotiations for the exhibition to go on show in London. Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow are wall advanced, and we hope to arrange further venues. June 30th — July 1st 1979 Sudbury Mammoth Olde Tyme Rallye Melford Hall, Long Melford, Sudbury. For those of us who witnessed the enjoyment of the thousands who attended the last “Mammoth”, the memory is so lar that it ‘seems incredible that another is already being organised. The ‘administration grows more complicated each time, but then so do the crowds, and the pleasure. However, large though the Rallye may be, there is no truth in the rumour that British Rail are going to re-lay the track from Sudbury to allow a visit from the “Mallard” Steam Section ‘As to date, the engine section seems to be going very well ‘except that estimates for best quality “Lady Windsor’ coal have proved too high, and we shall have to make do with standard steam coal, which will make things a little smoky! There willbe two live steam railways (5" and 10%" gauge) and six model live steam traction engines, For the fairground, we have a set of galloping horses, another steam ride and hand driven ‘old tyme’ rides and side shows.” For further information, contact Mr. Underwood at: 9 Aukingford Gardens, Ongar, Essex. Tel: 3334. Lastly, the MODELS SECTION. Mr. J. Archer (9 Lancaster Road, Sudbury, Tel: 74986) would ike 10 point out that aff models are eligible, not just steam. Everything from Railway models to horses or farm tools are acceptable; in fact, anything in miniature Don’t hesitate to contact Mr. Archer for more information. Guest Appearances ‘The modols used in making “Wings”, the W.W.1.T.V. series will be in flight a8 well as those boing used in making’a new I.T.V. series "Flambards’, featuring aircraft of 1910 vintage. Bigales will ‘only make it if Gigger can find the starting handle! 7th-8th July 1979 — Bristol IMLEC ~ M.A.P. Sponsored event. International efficioncy triale = Model Railway 36” & 5 gauge. NOW AVAILABLE — MODEL MECHANICS POWER UNIT KIT — REF. PE 630 K. 240v. AC input, 8v.200mA out. Stabilised. £2.45 pps0p extra Send S.A.E. for Illustrated Leaflet on our range of, Electronic Model Railway Controllers, ‘Also: Details of our Integrated Circuit Photographic Enlarger Timer, PE 131, our Darkroom One Second Pulse Flasher, PE 123, and for quick ‘checking of capacitors, our PE 442 direct reading Capacitor Checker 100 pF — 10 mF, at only £24.95 post free. AGi/ ELECTRoNIcs LTD AYFORD WAY, STAVELEY, DERBYS: 0245, YOU COULD DO IT — IF YOU COULD SEE IT And you CAN see with ‘THE VERSATOR BINOCULAR MAGNIFIER Gales Gorman Serine wh em £14.95 (ine. p&p.) Mason & Gantlett Ltd. t/¢ MODEL CARS wo hg roan ates te Papert eat cian coe Seer earned Be ae et Tot St AN na Fis eit ees onder sate ta pe pecniee ee ememece Hera ai Bs te hie senate Set ea ati Se Si. Sse S00 te Rae od ‘le: ow coi ues 878 0 spo, ae = LD EDITORIAL & TECHNICAL SERVICES LTD. PO BOX 30 HEMEL HEMPSTEAD HPT INL Magnificent Mamod working steam models are built to give lasting pleasure. A wide range of fabulous road vehicles, stationary engines and accessories to suit boys of all ages, at Prices to suit every pocket. Available at leading toy and model shops now! Model Mechanics, March 1979 ‘Malins (Marmod) Lid, Brierley Hill, West Midlands,SUNT ce Brenton Fant things our way. ‘You know what it's ike, making a model look real, Peering at fuzzy photos in books, for instance, you wish you had a trained photographic interpreter's eye Well, even if you have, italso helps to have the trained photographic interpreter’s equipment. A COIL Magnifier. Then all the detail you need to see comes through sharp and clear. Transferring that detail to your model can be very tricky, to0, of course. But, given a COIL Magnifier, it wll be a lot ess so. You'll find the minutest detail going on sharp and clear— under a much steadier hand Look for COIL Magnifier Models 5247, 5249, 5780 and the multi-angle, table-based 5144 —not to mention the special COIL Magnifiers Leatiet for modellers - in any good hobby or crafts shop. <> Industries Limited capture the detail. 124 FIELD ELECTRIC LTD 3 SHENLEY ROAD, BOREHAM WOOD, HERTS WDS 1A Tel: 01-963 6008 Solenoids Tis vol, sze25 x28. 10, 20 gms pull. .each 16p T2vote sizes x 19x24, ules pul... each 70p 24 volt size 40x 13 x 14,600 gms ull". each 260 240 volt sire 80x 18x18, 80. gms pul each 65> 240 volt, sia 68x25 x31, 3.5klo'spull - each OP Model Motors. Me ae vot, 10 motors £1.20 ‘Mains Motors 250v. A.C. Reversible inp. a0 pm £1225, UM. 14a0 rpm £10.98 Goared Motors Trp. 250v. A.C. o/c/wise, 4loc-m.. £3.00 731 pm. 250v. A.C. reversible, 1.31bs ns. £6.50 160 pm. 250y. A.C. c/wise, 600 ams. c.m, £4.50 + Se pm. 250y. A.C. cfel wise, 12. bs. £13.60 + Goar Boxes 60:1 reduction right angle box 2.20 Han. Contacts / Rating 4500 12.D.C., BP... Samps. 240y. A.C $000 17-37v.D.C,, 4P.C0., 25amps. 120v. A.C. {asi 1016, D.C, 4P.C.0., Samps. 240v. A.C. ‘Alisameprice S50 Micro Switches Samp. M0v. A.C. 5P.C.0. sSamp.240v, A\G. 5.P.S.7., VBF 200 Samp. 240v, A\G. B.P.C.0., CRY 750 sbamp. 240v, A.C. B.P.C.0,, SB2 228 Push Button Type Red button, Samp, 240y, A.C.5.P.C.0. ;....600 Green Button, Samp. 240v.A.C., D.P.C.0. £1.00 ALL PRICES INCLUDE V.A.T- SAVE UP TO 30% AND UP TO 70% 2p post 2ép post 2éppost 2appost 2p post 25p post ©2.00carr 2.000" 20p pest BOp car, 0p post e200 cer 6p post 1p post 15p post 9p post Top post Vesipest 1p post 18p post FROM OUR SPECIAL OFFER LIST Good quality Engineers tools and Industrial Supplies off the shelf. ‘Send 9p stamp for your copy of our large 44 PAGE ILLUSTRATED AND PRICED 1979 CATALOGUE Over 1600 items and 270 illustrations. Overseas please send three International Coupons USE YOUR CREDIT CARD, BARCLAYCARD (VISA) OR ACCESS. CHARGE BY MAIL OR BY PHONE AKRON TOOL SSS) ‘or one Dollar ‘SUPPLY CO. (DEPT, MM) 69 NIGHTINGALE LANE, WANSTEAD. LONDON, E112EY Telephone: 01-530 4405/4660 ‘Shop Hours: M-F9—5.30; Sat. 9.30—12.30 ‘Model Mechanics, March 1979Readers” DEQ ANAS 283282 scr. * Full Circuit * Alarm Control/ Wake to Music * Sleep Control J * 10 Minute Snoozes * Fast/Slow Time Setting * Brightness Control * Built-in AFC Normal Price £24.95 —— Our Special Price £21.95 els SUPER CONIC CALCULATOR Not only a calculator with normal +/—/ x/+/y//% but also a clock with the date, hours, minutes, AM/PM including an alarm. AND stopwatch with lap f Sold elsewhere for over £27.00. ‘Our Special Price £18.50 MARTEN ‘*— ELECTRONIC QUARTZ CHRONOGRAPH With 11 functions, advertised by one magazine a8 a special reader offer at £22.00 in December 1978. We offer this to QUR readers at a special price of ONLY £14.00. Time + stop-watch + calendar + lap times. ur best selling alarm clock i HANIMEX mains operated LE.D. electronic alarm clock P.O. Box 35, * Large L.E.D. Display hanasu 19s BRIDGE STREET ff“ ninsminutesnocre feature Heme. HEMPSTEAD HERTS [f= Gravt/Dimmoce control Te ees ea p= 2t hour ala onl of conven Now offered at ONLY £9.95 as against £12.00 in some shops. ORDER NOW... To: MODEL & ALLIED PUBLICATIONS LTD Dept. E0, 13/35 BRIDGE STREET, (Please write in BLOCK CAPITALS) HEMEL HEMPSTEAD, HERTS. Name. Tol: 0442.41221, Please supply the following Super Bargain items: iucreee (All our prices INCLUDE post, packing and VAT) MARTEN electronic HIRA AMILWIFM. C1 quartz chronograph | Electronic Clock Radio 2 5 Fe Conic Ecs01 HANIMEX ‘ow tedster davery. : O eateutator DD alarm clock Li) Good found 0b fly willbe rpicadinmosaty Model Mechanics, March 1979 125if you are just starting then our| freo ist is just what you need. ‘We supply Nuts, Bolts, Screws, Materials, Castings | ASSIFIE! M. J. ENGINEERING semen Drawings, seer eeet retin . Sarit ey auton pee et cree eee eis |. Se IS ihe le era e Box replies to be sent care of Advertising Department, P.O. Box %6, Bridge Streat, Home [SAE w Stew. Ey Hompstead, Herts, England HP1 1EE. There are no reimbursements for cancellations. (MJ, ENGINEERING, ‘The Advertising Manager reserves the right to refuse or suspend advertisements without 24 College Road, giving any reason. Every care is taken to avoid mistakes, but the publishers cannot be held Fingwood, Hants. Mabie in any way for, clerical and printing errors or omissions. Receipt of ‘copy’ for publication ‘Tol Ringwood 6234. pcre ek meteor acon te hans Oe eect ara ve, aeoereraeee | —— a TOSOSTEAM INTRODUCING TO MODEL ENGINEERS THE ERGOFLAME BLOWTORCH [ABOTTLED GAS SOLDERING TORCH ATA SENSIBLE PRICE 1,000 B. Th. U/Hr OUTPUT FITS YOUR CAMPING GAZ CYLINDER TYPESO1/904/907 LATHE FROM US! EFORE YOU HAVE READ ‘OUR BOOKLET. DONT BUY YOUR | ee LEE, Reet eee | ee Reem nega : ADAPTOR KIT TO GIVE * BOTTLE ADAPTOR WITH Sa és Teradata heros Con ‘IVI 9) ANO PRIMUS/PROPANE (E1138) VERSIONS ALSO AVAILABLE TREETOWER LTD. 10 TEEWELLHILL, STAPLE ILL, BRISTOL BS165PA GLIDING HOLIDAYS. “THIS SPRING! ew coi cou tees Classified Advertisements To: MODEL MECHANICS From CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENT OT 0. BOK 36, 1 BIE SRE, HEMEL HEMPSTEAD, HERTS. HP TEE 2+ Una ae 129 wor. J enclose remittance value. to cover. charge £2.00 se Son ala saga coma em = £2.50 Insertions under the heading: Minturn £6.25 which is 25 em Manu 8 cn FOR SALE Qo ‘SERVICES Oo Sosa neni Shastra TOOLS & EQUIPMENT C COMPONENTS & MATERIALS Oo Name and address if to oppeer so0Ks, PUBLICATIONS, ETC. C])_—_WANTED ab treaee pale fan f please tick appropriate heading | KINDLY MENTION “MODEL MECHANICS” WHEN REPLYING TO ADVERTISEMENTS ‘Model Mechanics, March 1979 126hobby books! Evant A po-pourt of peorle and things: The lagenaity af mode! talers and de amning roast eee eee ot Pi iceghs batlestins toontatous Beam loos, satiouay. engines Bh soctorgering che oma ches ond fcesemics toade or adayted or feist engiteesing Una ilestrated $88" tbomm, Case Bound 5. MAKING THE MOST OF THE UNIMAT. Rex Tingey. Based on original material from the "Model Engineer’ magazine, showing how fo get. much improved perfor tance from your machine. 215. 276mm, 128 pages Paperback £3.75. SIMPLE ELECTRONICS FOR MODELLERS. Ian Sinclair. An explanation of basic electronics, covering theory, tools and equip. ment for electrically or elec. tronically controlled or operated models. 215 x 148mm, 111 pages. | Paperback £2.95. RADIO CONTROLLED wopet Thee Cans bP. Ne Bese Senn pashan pa tow aot pea pie tase on aes as Gorge Mess Gast cate Oo es oa fas ae Teo ee peas eee Pia dt « the easy way to receive those titles of special interest to you. Simply send the order coupon to Argus Books—the number one publisher and distributor of BACKYARD FOUNDRY. 8B. T. spin. A sequel to ‘Foundry work for the Amateur’ covering. all aspects of foundry work, well illustrated throughout with’ many stage by stage sequences. 184 x 121mm, 128 pages. Perfect bound, card cover. £2.25. MODEL ENGINEER VOL. 144 Part 1, Handsomely bound six monthly issues of the ‘Model Engineer’, Jan-June 1978, ready to update the serious modellers library. Casebound £13.50. MANUAL OF MODEL STEAM LOCOMOTIVE CONSTRUCTION Martin Evans, Fourth revised edition. A book to savour for the armchair enthusiast and the serious model engineer. Lavishly illustrated with diagrams, drawings and photographs. 241 x 142mm, 172 pages, Casebound. £4.50, = TO: ARGUS BOOKS LTD. 14 St. James Road, Watford, Herts. Yrces a: xed ph KNOW YOUR MODEL AERO ENGINES. R. H. Warring. Cover ing ‘glow and diesel, plus brief insight into CO, engines. In easily tunderstood style to help modellers to get the best performance from their engines makes this a must for all model flyers. 215 150mm, 128 pages. Linen type soft cover £2.95, HOW TO READ WORKSHOP DRAWINGS. W. Longland. A full explanation with many diagrams and drawings, for both modeller and full scale engineer. 183. x 123mm, 63 pages. Paperback £1.50. BUILDING THE ALLCHIN. W.. Hughes, Modelling “Royal Chester’, a 114" General Purpose Traction Engine. Fully illustrated and scale drawings. 242 x 158mm, 256 pages. Limp edition £6.95. PLANS HANDBOOKS. The M.A.P. Plans Service. Book 1. Acromodelling. Book 2. Model Boats and Cars. Book 3. Model Engineering. Book 4. Radio Con. trol Models. Page after page of fascinating articles, plan listings and descriptions, fully illustrated and classed for ease of building 210 x 140mm, New editions, 0p each. METRIFICATION FOR THE MODELLER. A practical booklet ‘of immense help in size conversion for so many common items. Covering linear measure, areas and square measure, cubic volume and capacity, weights density, forces and moments, work and power, pressure and stress, and some useful appendices, and many tables. 210 146mm, 40 pages. Linen type card cover. 75p. | Please rush me the books I have indicated in the boxes below. 20.4 f, 1 Name, B Aedress Workshop Chatter Locomotive Constr Backyard Foundry © C Making the Most of the Unimat (How to Read Workshop Drawings Building the Allehin [Dimple Electronics 1D Radio Controlled Mode! Racing Cars CI Metrfication for the Modeller (i Know YourModelAeroEngines C1 Plans Handbook 1 CO Model Engineer Vol.144, Part 1 © Plans Handbook 2 Manual of Model Stearn Plans Handbook $ action (Plans Handbook 4for rr valour service authenticity supreme decorations Arange of 200 Authe Railways, Aircraft, Ships, AFV's jects.