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e document which gives

ion for those people
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h many color plates,
iod pictures, detailed
ythical German tanks:
anzer III and Panzer
e armored vehicles
four schematic cuts
It also has differen
plans, and a compila


e colors, camouflage
er vehicles during the
period between 1933
o power in German
pansion that ended



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En esta segunda entrega abordamos el Junkers Ju 88 A-4

Procesos paso a paso donde se explican diferentes trucos
y tcnicas como:
Unin del Fuselaje, Eliminando marcas de molde,
Repanelado, Enmascarando transparentes, Desconchones
con la Tcnica de Laca, Pintura de la Balkenkreuz,
Aplicacin de calcas y Trabajo con leos.
Guide to camouflage and insignia of the German Tanks.
Richly illustrated throughout with many color plates
Color profiles of the mythical German tanks:
Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. A Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. B Pz.Kpfw. II
Pz.Kpfw 38(t) Pz.Kpfw. III Pz.Kpfw. IV

1. ESP INDICE_ING_ESP.NDICE 08/10/13 12:08 Pgina 1




A most enjoyable kit packed with details, sure to catch every hobbyists eye and attention
because of all of its numerous little features. This is a piece by Volker Bembennek, who
goes at great lengths to explain all his work on this kit in an extraordinary review.



Featuring Diego Quijanos version of this vehicle, executed by following
both the classic and more recent techniques and turning all into model kit


An enormously enticing Paper Panzer, which might have seen some action during
the battle for Berlin. Javier Redondo applies all his skills in order to get the most out
of this kit which is accompanied by a beautiful diorama enhancing this beautiful




A Knigstiger made up of different parts taken from different sources, a typical
situation in the final months of the war, presented to us by Fabricio Pincelli who
explodes in a pictorial way and creates a fantasy vehicle with an enormous

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 12/10/13 20:33 Pgina 2

Panzer IV ausf
france, summer 1944
By: Volker Bembemnek

Pictures by the author


Well, at first, it might sound quite unusual to put a Panzer IV version B in a scene
during the summer of 1944 at Normandy!
Such an early vehicle, produced from May to October 1938 and therefore, for
the year 1944, both technically and in terms of its weapons and armor
hopelessly out of date. This vehicle should probably have been retired
long ago and replaced by accordingly newer vehicles.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:46 Pgina 3

sf. B

nd yet, there was this string of training

tanks, which were sent back to use due to
the lack of material at the end of the war.
Of course, whenever possible these vehicles were
newly painted and upgraded.
My job is now the realization of exactly one of these
vehicles. A work entirely to my taste, because I think
this unusual combination of early armored vehicles
and the late years of the war is a fascinating and is
also a very interesting challenge. Also the design of a
hard edged camo which these vehicles of the
Pz.Rgt.22, 21 Pz.Div. as provided in Normandy is a
nice change from the otherwise normal Panzergrau
on a typical B version.
For the realistic reproduction of one of these armored
vehicles, I want on the one hand to focus on several
original pictures of a Panzer IV Ausf. B in France in
1944, while also allowing me the freedom of doing
my own interpretations in order to make the model
as diverse and interesting as possible.

Now, before we start working on the actual model,
you should have established a well-designed working
program. Especially, if like on this model you do not
follow the usual scheme and build it virtually out of
the box. You should take into account the specific
changes from the first building steps onwards.
These relate, at First to the "back-dating" of some
components of the version C kit (Tristar 35017) to a
version B, and Second, the "pre-dating" of the version B to a vehicle in the summer of 1944.
Likewise, one should study the construction blueprints of the used upgrade-sets doing a precise study
and familiarizing yourself with its contents. Also
recommended is now a closer examination of the original photos in order to define, which parts of the kit
will be replaced with etched parts from the upgrading-sets.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:47 Pgina 4

As usual with Tristar, the lower hull
tub is made up of several parts, consisting of the floor section, the rear armor
and the two sides, which are held in place with the two crossed bulkheads E-1 to
help keep everything square and in a clean angle. Fitting the lower hull floor and
side panels can be made easier by first
gluing the inner bulkheads (parts E1) in
place and letting these dry completely to
get a good firm fixation point for the side
Before the two sides A-18 and A-19
are glued, you should first make some

alterations. First, I removed the cast-on

supports on the fenders, as they later will
be replaced with etched parts. On the
left side of the vehicle (A-18) there are
the two cast-on fuel caps, which I carefully cleaned away (pay attention to the
cast-on side armor screws!) and replaced
both with etched ones from the Voyager
I wanted to represent the front cap for
a later scene in an open position and therefore I drilled a hole with a 4mm drill. To
represent the inner details of the fuel
pipe, I picked up the parts F-13 and F-24
from the Dragon Kit No. 6301 Panzer IV
Ausf E "Vorpanzer". After bonding the

The cast on support for the plastic fenders from the kit has been
roughly cut away using a mini drill .....

and then sanded clean.

two sides, I now devoted myself to the

rear armor plate, by carefully removing
first the cast-on angle of the connection
between the upper and the lower hull.
This again will later on be replaced by
some etched parts from the Voyager set.
In the adaptation, the fit of the rear plate
to the rest of the lower hull proved to be
far from optimal, and so here are some
gaps which needed to be filled with the
help of some stretched sprues, plastic
material and putty and later on sanded.
To further detail the rear plate, I build up
some welding seams with Magic Sculp.
In particular, on the early versions of
the Panzer IV the massive muffler repre-

Retired the excess plastic with a small blade ...

Also the cast-on fuel caps were

carefully removed....

And replaced with etched pieces from

the Voyager set.

The inner part of the tank nozzle was

topped with parts from the Dragon

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:47 Pgina 5

The side panels are adapted to the previously glued cross

member A-1 and bonded.
The fit of the rear plate was not ideal and had to be

Also at the vehicle's front, the fit is unfortunately quite

loose .....

sents an important detail on the rear of

the model. In the presentation and refinement of this component, one should
pay special attention and care (see section "The exhaust"). I leave the muffler
of the DKW engine for later on, and
work on the turret slewing on my model,
since this corresponds to a concept
which does not exist. Only the pipe of
the muffler was built with a styrene
The final step in the construction
phase of the "lower hull" was the vehicle's front. Here unfortunately the imperfect fitting continues, just like it happened with the rear armor plate. In the
adjustment of the front glacis plate there's a large gap of about 0.5mm x 1mm,
which had to be filled with a plastic strip
of Evergreen and subsequently sanded
smooth. At the front bow plate I replaced the bolts of the tow coupling with

and had to be repaired with the help of plastic profiles.

Further refinements done to the front of the vehicle.

copper wire ones and used the etched

chains from the PE set provided with the
kit. On the gear covering, I built up a
mount for 7 spare track links, as were

usual, from June of 1942. Before bonding

the brake access hatches, I carefully drilled out the hinges to give these further

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:48 Pgina 6


The cast-on bracket-belts of the

muffler were diligently removed ....

and then sanded clean.

Then both parts were glued together.

With the help of Tamiya putty, diluted with a little plastic glue, I recreated the actual
surface structure.

The weld seams were done with

Magic Sculpt and sculpted with a

Finally, I again reworked the surface

with a little bit of Mr. Surfacer 500,
which I dabbed on with the help of an
old brush.
Also already visible here are the
newly made bracket-belts from the
Voyager set.

With the help of a soldering iron,

I carefully added some dents.

The finished exhaust, ready to be

assembled on the model.

Test fitting on the

kit. The exhaust
isn't glued in
place yet, because
it would hinder
painting later on.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:48 Pgina 7

From the beginning, the cast-on fenders provided with
the kit should be replaced with the photo etched parts
from Aber. This offering without any doubt is a significant
increase in scale fidelity, but it also means more work and
therefore a greater amount of time consumed. In addition
to the enhanced authenticity, the photo etched brass-parts
allow for a more realistic representation of any kind of
After a base coat with Tamiya acrylic paints (XF-1 +
XF-10 ) applied with an airbrush kit, thin layers of various
shades of Vallejo and Life Color acrylics followed suit.
These colors were applied by dabbing the, with a small

To prepare the PE parts you should first sand these

carefully with thin grain sandpaper to get a better
base for paint to adhere.

Several filters followed with the same acrylic paints.

After a layer of hair spray was applied, the exhaust could

be covered with the sand yellow base color of the model.
Subsequently, with the help of warm water and a small
bristle-brush, the basic color was partially removed. After
that, the work was sealed with a mixture of Tamiya X-22
clear and X-21 flat base.

With some more filters and a light coat of dust (with the
method described below), we have a finished muffler.

Another question is how to connect now the parts

together in order to make a stable fit with the kit. Here, it
is both possible to glue it with cyanoacrylate glue or welding it. Both alternatives certainly have their advantages
and disadvantages and are used accordingly, but in my
view in order to get strong and resilient connections between the metal parts, the soldering is the better solution
of the two.
Of course, the soldering process is a bit more challenging than working with glue, but in the end you will be
rewarded with a clean and stable connection.
Therefore as I already mentioned at the beginning, the
cast-on support for the plastic fenders has to be removed
For a precise and stable fit of the etched fenders onto
the lower hull, three holes have to be drilled using the
enclosed template of the PE Set. To prepare the PE parts
you first should sand these carefully with thin grain sand-

Using a bending tool also large PE parts can be easily

and safely be bent into shape.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:49 Pgina 8

At the beginning of the soldering process some flux is

applied with an old brush onto the parts which will be

If the soldering iron has the right temperature, by simply

touching the solder it flows quickly and easily to the
joints, ensuring a strong and secure connection.

For a precise and stable fit of the etched fenders onto the lower hull, three
holes have to be drilled, using the enclosed template of the PE Set.

Another detail consists of new 0.65mm screw heads from Calibre 35 (set 35
052), which neatly fit in previously drilled holes.

paper to give paint a better base to adhere on to later. Now, however, begins the
actual soldering process, the necessary
components are carefully and neatly cut
out with a scalpel from the etched frets.
Now they can be bent with a bending
tool "Hold and Fold Set". Sometimes it is
advantageous to bend the parts only
after the soldering has been done. This is
ultimately dependent on the PE piece
youre working with.At the beginning of
the soldering process some flux is

applied with an old brush onto the parts

which should be soldered together.
If the soldering iron has the right temperature, once it touches the solder it
flows quickly and easily to the joints,
ensuring a strong and secure connection.
The finely detailed tool holders from
Aber must first be assembled from several tiny components. Also these very
small and delicate parts were firmly fixed
with a soldering iron to the fenders. Now
before the already soldered fenders can

Also the very small and fine tool

holders from Aber were firmly
attached to the fenders with a
soldering iron.

be attached to the lower hull, they have

to be washed thoroughly in warm soapy
water to remove any grease residue left
by the soldering flux.
For mounting this to the lower hull, I
used superglue, but the well-designed
system from Aber is also a great help.
Further detailing work consists of new
0.65mm screw heads from Calibre 35
(set 35 052) and wing nuts (single wing
nuts) by Bronco-models (set AB3501) to
the tool holders. The tools which I installed only partly in their mountings come
both from the kit and also from the Dragon kit 6301 Panzer IV Ausf E "Vorpanzer". The upgraded Notek "Tarnscheinwerfer" I took from the tool kit for the
Panzer IV from Tamiya. Still to be mentioned are the revised front headlights,
which I first carefully drilled out with a
small ball mill, followed by a reflector
made of thin aluminum foil. The bulbs
are little silver beads. After painting the
headlights, these were then filled with
two component epoxy resin.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:49 Pgina 9

Like on all vehicles it is mostly the
chassis where we can probably find the
worst wear and, consequently, in this
area spare parts are frequently needed in
the course of time.
I replaced the early sprocket wheels
from the kit by later versions with new
ring gear (without side holes), as these
were used from the Panzer IV Ausf E
onwards. These pieces again come from
the Dragon kit 6301 Panzer IV Ausf E
"Vorpanzer" (Part A-20, A-21 and A-31)
and fit almost perfectly on the Tristar kit.
I also decided to use the idler wheels

with the improved version having an

inner and outer disc to the rim, as it was
used from late type C or D vehicles. These components are leftover pieces in the
Tristar kit and thus the use of those pieces is not a problem. I also used some of
the road wheels of the later version with
new caps for grease lubrication, like they
were used on the E version. These components, I took from the Tristar German
Pz.IV Wheel Set 35 014 (parts-1 Wd,
The tracks are the excellent single link
tracks from Friul (ATL-02).

On the idler wheels, the edge between

the two parts of the wheel has to be
filled with putty and sanded. For this
end I built a small file from an
appropriately tailored wooden stick, on
its top I glued some sandpaper.

A look at all the

components of
the suspension.
The fenders are
already glued
on to the lower


From the Panzer IVs all the way to
the F version the cooler flaps and fan
flaps on the rear upper hull roof were still
produced without the later conventional
cooling slots, especially in the summer
these can be seen on many period pictures. The flap of the radiator was slightly
opened to improve the cooling.
From a previous project I had a cooler/radiator from a CMK Panzer IV engine set (CMK3017) as a left over part,
which now serves as a perfect piece for
my scene.
With the help of some plastic plates, I
built the visible area of the engine compartment wall and a small plastic leftover

was used to create a substructure to keep

the cooler in the correct position.
Before bonding the upper- and the
lower hull together, the cooler must be
installed; this component was first painted and completely weathered before
assembling it.
In the same step, I painted the entire
inside of the tub with matt black, so no
bare plastic surfaces can be seen through
the partly opened hatches left later.
With the help of some plastic sheets, I built the visible part of the engine
compartment wall and a small plastic residue substructure to keep the
cooler in the correct position.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:49 Pgina 10

The cooler and all visible components

had to be painted before gluing the
upper and lower hull together.

Likewise, I did the weathering at this

stage of the building.

In the same step, I painted the entire inside of the tub with matt black, so no
bare plastic can be seen through the partly opened hatches left later.

View of the cooler and the adapted upper hull.



On the upper hull (Part A-1) I first

removed the cast-on plastic fenders.
After the two side parts (A-8, A-9)
were cleansed of all cast-on tool holders,
all the holes were filled, glued on, together with the Bugpanzerplatte (A-3).
On the engine deck at the opening for
the fan flap (LB-10) some material had
to be sanded off, because these did not
fit neatly. Of course the hatch of the
cooler is not glued because later on it
will be left open and instead the pin
ejector marks on the bottom side were
sanded and smoothed. The cast-on lock
of the three engine-hatches, which are
the lockable version from the C version ,
were sanded down and replaced by
some early round closures from the Aber
PE set.
On the bug a rain gutter was added
on top of the drivers vision port and
also some refinements were added to the

On the upper hull first, the cast-on plastic fenders were removed.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:50 Pgina 11

On the upper-hull's roof some weld seams were added by

using stretched sprues.

hatches of the driver and the radio operator with etched parts from the Voyager
On the upper-hull's roof some welding seams were added by using stretched sprues and the existing ones were
refined by using a soldering iron with an
accordingly fine tip. One should be very
careful and use a soldering station where
you can control the temperature.
After having been sanded off the casted iron angle at the upper rear armor
plate A-11 located at the rear part of the
lower hull was replaced with etched
parts from the Voyager set like I did earlier, the upper and lower hull could now
be bonded. In the original vehicle there
is a welded/screwed angle iron between
the upper hull and the fenders, which
were hinted by the previously removed
plastic fenders, but unfortunately, do not
exist on the Aber PE set. These were rebuilt with the help of Evergreen plastic
strips and refined with welded seams
from stretched sprues on the upper hull
respectively with stamped screw heads
(Punch & Die-set) and on to the fenders.

The finished lower hull. I

experimented with many details ...
even at this stage of construction I
tried to create a model as alive as
possible. Some ideas, such as the
Panther components were discarded
and others, later on were added or
changed. All these little details are
very important for the subsequent
overall composition of the model.

Subsequently, these were refined by using a soldering iron

with an accordingly fine tip.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:50 Pgina 12


All components of the turret, these are apart, because we need to pain the

The turret storage box from the

Voyager set.


Details of the commander's cupola.

Its very nice to see here the fine
hatch covers from the Voyager set.
Unfortunately the periscopes are

The last phase of the assembly now

deals with the turret, which Tristar has
added an easy but sufficient interior. At
least I think the details are totally acceptable in order to represent the side hatches
in open position. Unfortunately the commander's cupola is lacking any detail on
the inside. No problem when leaving a
closed cupola, but annoying if you want
to display it open. I will later try to conceal this deficiency with a figure.
The KwK37 7,5 cm L24 of the kit was
replaced by an excellent aluminum tube
from the Lion Roar (LB3512) company.
When installing the coaxial turret MG,
the kit had to be backdated again to a version B by not using the armored cover of
the machine gun (part 4 Lb).
The hatch cover of the commander's
cupola has been replaced by the excellent
piece from the Voyager set.
As of March 1941 all the early Panzer
IVs, got a luggage box on the turrets rear
wall. So this is also a detail which exists
on my vehicle in the summer of 1944, but
is not included in the Tristar kit. Here
again comes the Voyager set to the rescue, because it includes a finely cast resin
piece for doing a turret storage basket
(including contents to do so!).
Before the individual components can
be bonded, first the interior has to be
completely painted and weathered.
After gluing all components, again all
the welding seams on the outside were
reviewed and refined with the previously
described method.

The front side of the turret with the

excellent aluminum barrel from Lion
Roar. Its also good to see the
welding seams on the back of the
gun, and the revised turret-MG. As a
further detail, the left front visor
cover was left open.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:50 Pgina 13

The primed
interior. The
"ivory" color
was mixed from
Tamiya acrylic
paints XF-2
white + XF-60
dark yellow + a
drop of X22

After a few filters,

a pin washing and
a subsequent
chipping all the
components were
glued together. All
the weld seams on
the outside have
further detailing.


2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:51 Pgina 14


2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:51 Pgina 15


As I already mentioned at the beginning I wanted to do a hard-edged

camouflage with this model, just like the
ones these vehicles were oufitted with
during the operations in Normandy.
Even for a less experienced modeler,
the design of such a camo scheme


When it comes to painting with an
airbrush, acrylic paints from Tamiya are
always my first choice. Later on, when
painting all the other details with a
paintbrush or when doing the weathering and dusting, I only use acrylic
paints from Vallejo and Life Color, which
have a perfect finish.
The degree of dilution of the color is
the key for the success in the application
of paint and its later appearance. When
working with the airbrush, Tamiya-paint
is diluted with Mr. Color thinner in a

Before applying the proper base color,

the large photoetched parts get a
coating of Mr. Surfacer 1200.

actually is quite simple to accomplish.

The best way to achieve this is by using
masking tape, which although it requires
some attention in the application, in
my opinion, gives the best possible
results.(insert pic ready to paint)
Here, all components of the model can

be seen. In order to facilitate the painting, the kit is partially disassembled into
several parts. To protect the already finished interior details, these areas were
masked as well.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:51 Pgina 16

Since this kit should be painted

according to the original period
model, the vehicle first receives its
dark gray base color. To create the
dark grey color which is visually
more pleasing-, I mixed myself a
color, which tends to be rather blue.

ratio of 1:2 and is applied with an air

pressure of about 1.1 bar.
Not later than now, you should have
made up your mind about the camouflage you want to execute, with the help of
drawings and period photographs.
The tools for reproducing the camouflage scheme are Tamiya masking tape
from, a metal ruler and a sharp scalpel.
The yellow masking tape from Tamiya is
specifically created for the needs in
modeling and is offered in various
widths. Another big advantage is the
adhesion of this tape, which turns out to
be neither too strong nor too soft.
I would like to implement some new
ideas with this model when it comes to
the weathering, so I will begin with the
chipping during the base paint phase
with the help of the hair spray technique. With the hairspray technique you
simply apply a layer of hairspray between
the two layers of color. Thus, the upper
layer of paint can partly be removed with
the help of warm water, which will dissolve the hair spray under the paint.
Thus the first layer of paint appears
again and so it can produce a very realistic chipping.
Once the grey base color is had
sufficient time to dry, I covered the
entire model with three thin layers of
hair spray. For a finer and more
controlled application I fed the
hairspray directly into the airbrush.

In addition, through some pre-shadings and color variations -already in this

early stage of the painting process- I
tried to create some dirt deposits.
After the application of hair spray,
now we can proceed with the next
phase of the camouflage color
scheme; the dark yellow base color.
This was sprayed in a cloudy manner
in order for it not to opaque the

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:51 Pgina 17

Then, the model was sealed with

Tamiya X-22 clear, so no more
hairspray would dissolve with the
following steps.

With the help of warm water, several

different paintbrushes and a
toothpick the sand yellow color was
then removed at selected locations.
Here, the corresponding area was
moistened with some warm water,
which dissolves the hairspray under
the yellow paint. Subsequently, these
areas have been carefully worked
with the different sized paintbrushes.
For the small scratches, I used a
The masked model.
In order for the masking tape to
adhere perfectly on to the kits
surface, the edges were pressed
gently with a cotton swab. This is
important so that no color leakage
Now, before the last application of
paint is sprayed on the kit, I reapplied a new layer of hairspray.

The last step of the camo scheme was

the spraying of the green shades on
the remaining areas of the model.
These were also done in darker and
lighter stripes to achieve light
shadings of this color.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:52 Pgina 18

After the last camouflage color was

applied, the masking can be removed.
To avoid any paint damages when
removing the masking tape, first
carefully lift one corner of the tape
and then remove gently the strip
with tweezers.

Now the same step done on the

yellow base color was repeated. The
green camo stripes were processed
with hot water and a paintbrush. One
should proceed carefully with the
chippings and try not to overdo it.
During the following weathering
process the so-produced scratches
and paint damages can be further

The finishing of the

airbrush work concerns
now only the post-shading
chores. For this we should
dilute the color very much,
to a consistency of dirty
water. This mixture is then
sprayed carefully and
placed carefully in each
groove, along all edges and
so on. Also on all surfaces
we create carefully some
kind of strip, intended to
indicate the trails of dirty
water. This creates further
depth for the colors.


2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:52 Pgina 19

For some time now, I almost only use
acrylic paints for weathering my kits.
Unlike the traditional methods of
weathering with oil paints, enamels and
pigments, I try the techniques of filtering, washing, dusting, etc using only
acrylic paints. This method has, of course, all its pros and cons, but I personally
like working more and more exclusively
with acrylic paint. One big advantage
certainly is their property to be diluted

with water, but that may also be a great

disadvantage, since these colors dry very
quickly. The time water needs to evaporate, is the time it takes for the paint to
dry up! This means we have very little
time to work with the color on the surface of the model. On the other hand, the
advantage of a rapid drying time is, that
you can apply many layers in a short
time, eg filtering. Not long to wait, i.e.
you can work faster and straight forward.

Another advantage is the clarity obtained on your workbench, because you

don't need all the different color-media
and their specific thinners but only
water, which also means no bad odors.
Like everything, this method of weathering with acrylic paint requires practice
and experience, but if you get the feeling
for these colors, they offer a great potential.

The first filter, which is applied over
the entire kit is very important. It has
two tasks, first to act as an ordinary filter, and second, to break the surface tension of the model. Therefore this first filter must be mixed with a drop of
dishwashing liquid, so that the water
diluted acrylic paint is not repelled by
the kits surface, but merges with it.
It is only with this first filter that we
need a drop of dishwasher; all subsequent layers could be diluted with ordinary water.

The most effective method of shading
and further strengthening the effect of
depth on a kit, is the classic pin-washing.
All details such as joints, rivets, etc. are
highlighted with a darker color. Here, the
color is not as extensively applied as the
filter, but it mainly is just used for screw
heads, columns, and raised details. Oil
colors or enamels diluted with white spirit are used normally for this task, and
now we can use ready premixed Washes
(e.g. MIG). Here again, I only work with
acrylic paints, which the capillarity effect
affects in a similar way.
The degree of dilution is again crucial
for the capillarity effect. If the color is
diluted too much, it flows very quickly
around all the creases, however, after
drying, it's barely visible. However, if the
color is mixed too thickly, it will not flow
around the details. Corrections and

improvements are only possible as long

as the paint has not dried yet, and thus
one should always have one spare paintbrush and clear water on the workbench.


2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:53 Pgina 20

Much of the paint chips are already
produced by the application of the hairspray method during the base painting
process. However, it is necessary to futher refine the damages and also add a
few more. Depending on how deep the
scratches have penetrated through the
various paint layers, four colors (dark
brown / primer red, grey, sand yellow and
green) are used for further detailing. For
this, the colors will be slightly brightened, to help them stand out from the
rest of the painting, which again is a
positive thing for the depth of the model
and adds more color shades. Although
one should not overdo it, it is necessary
to emphasize the paint here and there
because the following weathering processes will cover part of it again. The colors
used for this purpose are exclusively
acrylic paints by Vallejo. I always apply a
drop of paint on a pallet and mix it with

some water until it attains a good spreadability. It is always recommended to

start the paint chipping at the edges and
corners of the armor plates and to spare
the large areas as much as possible.
With rust, I have dealt very sparingly
with this kit. Because the original, until it

was used at the invasion on the front,

has only been lingering on as a training
vehicle, so we can assume that good care
of the material has been taken. Therefore,
only a few rust streaks were added on
some select points. I used three different
rust colors from Life Color.



The only writing on the vehicle

amounts to the name "Heidi", which
was painted on the upper half of the
driver's vision port.

The spare track links on the front of the vehicle were primed in different colors
to convey the impression of being of random origins.

Now, before proceeding with the

pollution of the model with earth and
dirt, all the missing parts should if possible, already be attached to the kit. These
include tools, spare track links and other
details. This is necessary in order for all
of these components to match with the
pollution of the overall kit.

A particular detail here to mind is the

replacement track links on the front of the
vehicle. Through a variety of colors, these
will be giving the viewer the impression
to be of a random origin. This allows to
make the model more interesting and
lively. The track links were primed with
Tamiya Acrylic paint in a dark rusty color.

Subsequently, individual track links were

painted in different yellow-, grey- and rust
colors, which further strengthened the
effect of random origins.
The only writing on the vehicle
amounts to the name "Heidi", which
was painted on the upper half of the driver's vision port.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:53 Pgina 21


Detailed view of the vehicle's left side.

Now we are ready for the final step of painting and

Before applying the soil and dust one should have a precise idea of where and when the vehicle was used. It
obviously makes a big difference whether the vehicle is operated in a dry summer or a damp terrain in the fall. On my
Panzer IV, which is to be presented in the summer of 1944
shortly after the invasion, I guess dirt is more predominant.
I start applying dirt on the lower hull with some thin
washes with 872 chocolate brown from Vallejo. This layer
is followed by further brown and beige color applications
which I dabbed on to the surface of the kit and then worked while still wet with the help of a damp brush. Here, it's
very important to keep the surface of the model always
moistened during the process. Lighter dust layers were
applied with Vallejo 837 Pale Sand and spread in vertical
brush strokes done in Using the same method, I worked on
all the remaining kit surfaces.
Mud and stronger pollution involving mud and sand I
refrained from doing entirely on my kit, since this would
disturb the summer and dusty overall impression.

A view of the driver and radio operators hatch wearing

the headphones from the Royal model kit.
Several different brown acrylic colors were
incorporated to the surface of the kit wet over wet
(872 chocolate brown, 825 cam.violet brown, 873 us
field drab, 916 sand yellow, 837 pale sand).

The damage on the right fender and some more details.

With the same method of "acrylic paint wet over wet"

I worked on all the remaining surfaces of the kit.


2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:53 Pgina 22


The wheels got the same treatments
the rest of the vehicle recieved, detailwashing, paint-chippings and dirt. For
the grease marks I mixed Vallejo 950 flat
black with 984 flat brown together with
a bit of Tamiya X-22 clear. The rubber
rings of the wheels I painted with a mixture of black and off-white (Vallejo 820).
Since the drive-sprockets and idlerwheels are subject to constant abrasion
from the tracks, I painted those areas
with Vallejo 865 oily steel and 864 natural steel.
The tracks first got a base coat of
Tamiya acrylic paint applied with my airbrush kit, and then these were treated
with several acrylic paint washes (see
chapter pollution with soil and dust).
A good way to shorten the working
time between the different washes is to
dry the various layers with a hair dryer.
With a small flat brush the tracks got
some drybrushing with 865 oily steel on
the areas which come in contact with
the ground or the wheels.

The tracks first received a base coat of Tamiya acrylic paint applied with an
airbrush kit.

Then, these were treated with

several acrylic paint washes.
After mounting the tracks on the kit
these were again treated with acrylic


To give the model a further splash of color and to visually
present the turbulent story of the vehicle, I have applied a different camouflage pattern on the turret storage box. This constitutes a component which was added later on as an upgrade and
maybe was "borrowed" from a damaged vehicle.


Hairspray chipping with

warm water and a bristle

The turret storage box was painted in an irregular twocolor line airbrushed pattern. This pattern was applied on
the sand-yellow base color, which in turn was sprayed on
top of a coat of primer red. The primer red afterwards was
sealed with hairspray.

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:54 Pgina 23

Further retouches done with the paint brush.

Finished turret storage box.

On the upper brackets, I imitated weld marks, since the
box probably was added as a field modification.

By looking at the pictures of

the finished tank, it is clear
the influence all the little
details have on the final
appearance of the kit. All
the various bits of color
along with the weathering
processes recreated plus the
two figures bring life into
the scene in a successful

2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:55 Pgina 24

Tristar 35017 German
Panzerkampfwagen IV Ausf. C
Lion Roar LB3512 KwK37 7,5cm
L24 barrel
Aber 35188 Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf.
B/C Vol.1 - basic set
Aber 35189 Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. C
Fenders Vol.2 - additional set
Voyager Model 35086 Panzer IV
Ausf. C
Friul Metal Tracks ATL-02
Tristar 35014 German Pz.IV
wheel set
- later version caps for grease
lubrication on roadwheels
CMK3017 engine compartment
- cooler/radiator
Dragon Kit No. 6301 Panzer IV
Ausf. E "Vorpanzer"
- sprocket wheels, inner details of
the fuel pipe
Bronco AB3503 Wing Nuts
Calibre35 screw heads
Karaya TCR3508 tow cable
Royal Model 35217 German
Tanker Headphones WWII
Accessories from various
manufacturers i.a.
- PlusModel 35152 Metal buckets
and cans
- PlusModel 35113 Suitcase set
- MK35 A067 fuel canister
Figures: Royal Model 35258,
Alpine 35067


2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:57 Pgina 25


2-26-Panzer IV_ING_PzI.F 12/10/13 20:35 Pgina 26

Primer: Tamiya XF-1 flat black + XF-10
flat brown
(MC) Golden Yellow 948, Vermillion
909, Dark Blue Grey 904,
(Lifecolor DS) Rust light shadow 2 UA
704, Rust light shadow 1 UA 703,
Rust base color UA 702, Rust dark
shadow UA 701
Base paint: sand yellow: Tamiya
acrylics: XF-59 desert yellow + XF-4
yellow green + XF-60 dark yellow
Soot: (MC) Black 950
Base paint: Tamiya acrylics: XF-2 flat
white + XF-60 dark yellow + X22 clear
Filter: Lifecolor Diorama Series: Rust
light shadow 2 UA 704, Rust light
shadow 1 UA 703.


Washing: (MC)
Black 950 + Chocolate Brown 872
Chippings: (MC)
Offwhite 820, Germ. Cam. Black Brown
822, Flat Brown 984, Vermillion 909
Pre-Shading: Tamiya XF-1 flat black +
XF-10 flat brown (2:1)
Base paint:
grey: XF-63 german grey + X-22 clear
aclarar con XF-50 field blue + XF-8 flat
blue + X-22 clear
aclarar con XF-20 medium grey + X-22
aclarar con XF-2 flat white + X-22 clear
Sand yellow: XF-59 desert yellow + XF4 yellow green + XF-60 dark yellow
light with XF-55 deck tan
light with XF-4 yellow green
light with XF-2 flat white

Green Camo: XF-71 cockpit green +

XF-5 flat green + XF-21 sky
light with XF-21 sky + XF-4 yellow
Filter: (Lifecolor DS) Rust light shadow
2 UA 704, Rust light shadow 1 UA
Washing: Vallejo Model Colour: Black
950 + Chocolate Brown 872
Chippings: (MC)
Pale Sand 837, Flat Brown 984,
Vermillion 909
Germ. Cam. Bright Green 833 + Light
Yellow 949
Dirt: (MC)
Chocolate Brown 872, Germ. Cam.
Pale Brown 825, US Field Drab 873,
Pale Sand 837.

Publicidad_CR_ING_Indice 169 17/06/13 20:41 Pgina 2

Tanks in Russia


Sold Out



Tanks in Russia I

Tanks in Russia II

Tanks in Russia III

Tanks in Russia IV

Tanks of the Eastern Front,

1941-1942: Painting and
Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. B:10. Pz.Div.
Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. F:7. Pz.Div.
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. H:3.
Tracks &
accessories:Painting and
Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. E:6.
Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. F-1:5.
Pz.Div., Pz. Rgt. 31
Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. F-2:14.
Pz.Div., Pz. Rgt. 36
Identification symbols:The
emblems used by German
crews in the Eastern Front,

A further analyse on
camouflages based on new
information. Assembly and
superdetailing of Russian
and Germantanks and
specially the following
Pz.Kpfw.38 (t),
T-34/78 mod.1940
T-34 mod.1941
T-34/76 mod.1941/42
BT-7M, ,
KV-II mod.1939,
KV-I mod.1941

Emblems of Armored
German Units on the
Eastern Front, 1943-1945
German Camouflage Colors,
1943 (RAL 840R)
Russian Camouflage Colors,
Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. M Pz.Rgt.3., 2. Pz.Div.
Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. G - 20. Pz.
Pz.Kpfw. V Ausf. D - 51.
Pz.Abt., III Pz.Rgt.53
T-34/76 Mod. 1943. 30th
Guard Armored

Pz.Kpfw. V Panther Ausf. A,

5.SS-Pz.Div. Wiking
Perfiles: Pz.Kpfw. V Panther
Ausf. A
Pz.Kpfw. Vi tiger Ausf. E , 2.
Pz.Rgt., SS-Pz.Gren.Div. Das
Perfiles: Pz.Kpfw. Vi tiger
Ausf. E
Pz.Kpfw. Vi tiger Ausf. E ,
Sch. Pz.Abt. 509
Pz.Kpfw. VI tiger Ausf. E ,
Sch. Pz.Abt. 509 versin
IS-1 (KV-85), Unidad de
entrenamiento cerca de la
fbrica Kirovski
IS-1, 13 regimiento de
choque de carros pesados
de la guardia



C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 MADRID

Tel. 913 675 708 Fax 914 085 841 e-mail:

Wellington House, 157 Snargate Street,

Dover, Kent CT17 9BZ

Panther Ausf. G

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28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:37 Pgina 29


28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:37 Pgina 30

By: Diego Quijano

Pictures by the author



Many hobbyists tend to build their kits in a

logical, well researched way in terms of colors and fixtures or other minor
transformations. Here well offer a typical rendition of this almost
universally accepted procedure.

A mixture of XF-60 Dark Yellow and XF-64 Red Brown was

used to create the modulated base paint done to apply first
the darkest color. I wanted to obtain a flat surface instead
of keeping the usual porous surface of Tamiyas matt paint,
so Ive added X-22 Clear until I obtained a mixture with a
satin finish. In order to be able to airbrush this mixture
without problems the best thing to do here is to dilute this
with enamel thinner (Gaianotes, Tamiyas Lacquer Thinner
or Gunzes Mr. Color Thinner work for this purpose).

Then we light this up with Dark Yellow and then we add

white to the Dark Yellow in order to paint the areas with
the greatest amount of light exposure. The sloped surfaces
should get a color modulation which enhances the upper
areas. Horizontal surfaces give us more freedom when
choosing which area we will lighten up, always keeping in
mind that every section or panel on the tank should get a
different color gradation.

The trick with color

modulation is to make it
far from obvious at first
sight, once weve
finished the kit. In order
to achieve this, we
should not exaggerate
too much the initial
effect. We have to bear
in mind that if were
planning to do a vast
amount of dirt and
weathering effects color
modulation will be
hardly visible. When in
doubt it is always
advisable to fall short
rather than overdoing it.
However there are other
means such as washes
and color filters which
can be used to enhance
the contrast between
lights and shadows if

28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:37 Pgina 31

Kit: Panther Ausf. G, Dragon 1/35
Camouflage net: Verlinden
Branches: Vegetarama

The green camouflage has been painted here with XF-13

J.A. Green adding white and yellow paint to lighten up the
color. This color has also been mixed with X-22 Clear and
diluted with Lacquer Thinner.

On top of a satin finish surface we

can apply oil paint without
previously applying varnish. In here
Ive only used buff oil paint to change
slightly the color tone of some

Oil has been applied not much diluted

and then it has been smeared by
spreading it with a clean dry brush. If
necessary we can gently soak our
paint brush in White Spirit.

Highlighting a bit more the surfaces

with some features in them is pretty
easy to do with a little white oil

We can also use dark colored oil paint to darken up a certain area.

Appearance of the kit before the dirt

effects are applied.


28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:37 Pgina 32

Because of the complexity of adapting the transfers to the

track links on the turret it is far better to paint these
numerals by hand. The silhouette of the numeral is first
outlined with a light colored pencil.

Once the numerals are painted we can begin to

apply our dirt effects. In the first place we melt
some oil paints. Small oil paint dots in several
different colors are applied on the surface.
(Weve used Brown white and Buff here).


The next step would be to enhance

the sunken features and other
crevices with a black oil paint wash
diluted in White Spirit.

Now we paint the numeral in white and then the inside is

filled with red paint leaving the white outline. Acrylic
paint is the best option for doing this.

Now we melt paint and smear these dots with a brush gently
soaked in White Spirit.

I also used black oil paint to do some

stains and splashes smeared with a
fine arts smearing stick or a cotton
swab. A short haired paint brush can
also do the work.

Buff colored acrylic paint was used

here to recreate some light spots and
scratches on the camouflage pattern.

28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:37 Pgina 33

We continue now
with the deeper
scratches in reddish
brown. Once weve
painted the acrylic
paint chips we can
always retouch its
shape with a
toothpick to
recreate a more
irregular shape on
the chip wherever
we need to.
Scratching the
paint scratches,
this sounds like a
Marilyn Manson

I also used a brown permanent

marker to reproduce the thinner paint

With a mixture of Tamiyas XF-57

Buff and XF-12 JN Grey diluted in
water we recreate some grime
streaks. These streaks cannot be
removed if youve screwed up with
them, so it is always advisable to
apply several coats of highly diluted
paint until were satisfied with the

The rust streaks are easily done with

AK interactives Rust Streaks.

Using light gray acrylic paint I added

little dots on the paintjob; these were
done with a toothpick as well.

The final paint scratches are done

with white watercolor pencil.


28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:37 Pgina 34



Before we apply the colored pigments it is advisable to

airbrush a very thin coat of Tamiya Buff to improve on
the adherence of pigments.

Sand color pigments in various hues, light, medium and

dark are mixed with water and a wash is applied
throughout the kits surface.

Before we apply dirt to the wheels we need to paint the

rubber area. Remember that its easier if you do it
before you glue the wheels in place well this goes
without saying.

When the wash has dried we can rub off the excess and
change the shapes of dirt by rubbing the surface with paint
brushes of different sizes.

Once weve applied the pigment dirt to the wheels I

recreated some mud clusters created with a mixture of
pigments, plaster and Tamiya paint. This thick mixture
is applied on the kit by splashing the surface with the air
from the airbrush kit.

Once were satisfied with the arrangement of dirt we

airbrush a thin coat of pigment fixer to improve

28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:38 Pgina 35

Random specks are applied with

orange acrylic paint.

Afterwards we can remove the liquid

masking stains with a toothpick. We
finish the job by putting a little black
colored pigment around the mouth of
the exhausts.

Time for the tracks. Base color here is a mixture of XF-57

Buff and XF-22 RLM Gray.

Now I used the same mud mixture mentioned before on the

wheels to do some irregular mud clusters on the tracks.

Then I applied a few dry pigments in

two or three shades of brown and then
fixed these in place with a specific
pigment fixer.

Once the pigments have dried up I applied

again dark brown pigment diluted in White
Spirit, once more in a random way.
The final step in painting the tracks would
be to convey the metal areas which are
worn until polished. This is done with
pencil lead or graphite. By the way, the
inner area of the tacks needs none of this
polishing, because this Panther has its
wheels lined with rubber, which again
should have gone without saying.


The exhausts are painted by doing a

thorough paint chipping process
involving some liquid masking. On
top of the Dark Yellow base we do
some irregular spots with the masking
liquid. Then we apply with a paint
brush an irregular coat with Dark

28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:38 Pgina 36

In order to convey
the humid spots I
used the AKs
Wet Effects
product darkened
with a little bit of
black oil paint.
This mixture can
be diluted with
White Spirit in
order to get
different degrees
of wetness.

One thing we can polish is the teeth

of the tractor wheel.

Grease stains on the wheels are made with AKs Engine

Oil. Of course we can again darken the effect with black oil
paint or smoothen it out with White Spirit in order to leave
it to our taste.

The final step after having glued the tools and other
remaining pieces which have been painted separately is to
give these a metallic touch along the tool edges
using pencil lead graphite-.



The first campaign camouflage

feature present is the metal cable
where camouflage branches are
attached. Nickel wire is the best, but
its appearance is going to be quite
rusty so we can use copper or tin wire
as well. The final appearance of this
feature is going to end up being
pretty irregular with all the different
rust color hues applied on a dark grey

Yellow modulation: XF-64 Red Brown, XF-60 Dark Yellow, XF-2 Flat White
Green modulation: XF-13 J.A. Green, XF-2 White, H-329 Yellow
Oil paints melted colors-: White, brown, ochre.
Oil paint wash: Black
Acrylic paint chips: Tan, red brown, light gray, brown marker.
Rust trails/streaks: AK Rust streakks
Scratches: White watercolor pencil
Mud streaks: XF-57 Buff
Pigment dirt: Light dust, European Earth, Dark Earth de AK.
Rubber on wheels: Acrylic black.
Mud on wheels and tracks:
-Base: XF-57 Buff y XF-22 RLM Grey
-Mud: Pigments AK Light dust, European Earth, Dark Earth, XF-57 Buff y XF-22
RLM Grey, plaster.
-Pigments AK: Light dust, European Earth, Dark Earth,
-Polished metal: graphite/pencil lead.
Humidity stains: Wet effects de AK + leo negro
Grease stains: Engine oils de AK
Rusted wire: Dark gray, AK Chipping color, Ak Dark rust, AK Light rust.

28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:38 Pgina 37


The branches are from a Vegetarama reference (asparagus

plant branches) and I think that these look pretty much like
pine tree branches. I think that this company no longer exists,
but I suppose that you can get something similar from the
many brands carrying products of this sort out on the market
today. In some flower shops stuff like this can also be found.

The branches are cut to measure and are glued with

cyanoacrylate glue forming the distribution of this camo
feature. You should not overdo this branch thing, we
dont really need to camouflage the vehicle, we are just
adding a nice touch to our kit without actually covering it
all up.
The camouflage net is a Verlinden
reference. In order to give it some
rigidity and tint it with a darker
color we soak it in a mixture of
white glue and green acrylic paint
once in place. A few more
branches can be added later.

If anything here is unclear and

you need me to shed some light
on any particular issue you can
contact me at


28-39-Pantera_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:38 Pgina 38

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40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:59 Pgina 40

By: Javier Redondo

Pictures by the author


The Flakpanzer IV is one of those German projects developed

towards the end of WWII, who bear the popular tag name of
paper panzers. Due to the allied forces relentless aerial
attacks to Germany that took place from April 1944 all the way
to the end of the war, a frantic research and development
strategy for Flak type vehicles was undertaken and several anti
aerial projects were designed.

40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:59 Pgina 41

he development of this particular project was
entrusted to Rheinmetall and Daimler-Benz
who turned out a prototype which was ready
by the latter part of that year. The frame of the ever
useful panzer IV was used here, and a double 30mm
MK (Maschinenkanon) 303 Doppelflak Brunn gun
developed por the type XXI submarine was mounted
on a sphere shaped turret which was completely closed.
This turret with a three and a half ton weight had a
commanders hatch and two additional hatches for
the gun loaders. The sheer size and weight of this

assembly had to be dealt with by modifying and

widening the ring on the turret of the Panzer IV in
order to be able to simply install it.
Having a low profile and a high mobility, its firepower fed via both of its feeding lines was quite
impressive (400 to 650 rounds per minute) with a
fire range of 5.700 meters; the Flakpanzer IV Kgelblitz was a considerable contender for any enemy
planes. Its primary drawback was the limited ammunition storage capabilities of the vehicle which made
necessary the use of auxiliary ammunition carrier

40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:00 Pgina 42

After the vehicle was evaluated, it was

decided not to produce it because of the
difficulties experienced when mounting
the MK-303 30mm gun, the fact that these guns were reserved for the Kriegsmarine didnt help either. The designers chose to use instead the 30mm flak MK
103/38 gun used by the Luftwaffe on the
Henschell Hs 129 which was popularly
known as the Jaboschreck (The terror
of the bomber fighters).
This modification was tested and manufactured in the Daimler-Benz Marienfelde
factory in Berlin. Production was scheduled for March 1945 with an expected

monthly production of 30 units. Because

of Germanys desperate situation, the
Panzer IV ceased to be manufactured
and only five units were delivered to the
Panzerflak Ersatz und Ausbildungs
Abteilung in Ohrdruf, but none of these
-theoretically- ever saw the battlefield.
Soviet sources located one unit in Berlin
in April 1945, and reported having seen a
strange armored vehicle with a spherical
turret, which could have been a Kgelblitz. It is important to say that this vehicle was designed for use in the Western
Front, where the heaviest allied bombings
were taking place. There are no surviving

photographic documents to support any

of this information.
In the latter part of the 1990s the
remains of a Kgelblitz were located in
the forest of Spatenberg in Eisenach (Germany). The vehicle belonged in all likelihood to the above mentioned Panzerflak Ersatz und Ausbildungs Abteilung,
and was a unit which was annihilated
during the combats which took place in
this area on April the 1st 1945 against
U.S. forces. This find generated more
questions than answers

The CyberHobby kit is quite accurate,
and its actually an improved version of
the previous Dragon offering.
I finally chose to portray a Panzer IV
Ausf J late frame with this very special
turret assembled in a hurry in it. In order
to do this, youll have to do some extra
work. This was done using the MR
Models reference containing different
resin and metal pieces.
The improvements and modifications
undertaken to recreate a final Ausf J
model are easy to spot in the pictures,
but I will point out the most important

The manhole covers on the right side

of this model (metal pieces included
in the MR reference) have been glued
in its correct location. The track
wheels seen in this picture belong to
a Tamiya kit. These wheels where
later on replaced by a Warriors


The kit offers the possibility to assemble three or four return rollers. For this
model we have to assemble three rollers and locate these carefully in the
correct position. The bogies of the final version had two screws less in each
individual support.

On the rear we have to adapt the Thoma vertical exhausts in order to fit these
in place, but the MR tow ring can be glued without any major fitting issues.

40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:18 Pgina 43

The lower area on the front of the hull has been

substituted for the MR piece with the correct
configuration and the simplified towing system in the
front typical of the late J models.

The turret is assembled by simply following the instructions

and without undertaking any significant modification.
The anti-aerial 30mm MK-103 guns are replaced by the
formidable and highly detailed metal ones manufactured by
Schatton Modellblau.

The tools and hatches are replaced for Tamiya pieces

which are far better made.

Overall views of the hull with every improvement and modification made.


40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:00 Pgina 44

When endeavoring to paint a Kgelblitz, the advantage of the lack of photographic evidence gives us much room to
paint this paper panzer. We have chosen to portray a J model with a standard
camouflage. The turret has however been
placed in a hurry and the only paint it
has, is the red priming. The results of
this combination I consider them to be
quite alluring and I think that the kit captures the improvisation and urgent measures taken during the final moments of
the Third Reich. The painting process
has been divided in;
After having washed the kit with
warm soapy water the kit I proceed
to apply Vallejos Primer Gray which
gives us an excellent base to receive
later on more paint from the
following stages.

The typical Olivgrn RAL 6003

applied in the final stages of the war
has been reproduced with a mixture
of Humbrol enamels 78 (Cockpit
Green), 120 (Light Green) and 105
(Marine Green) mixed in a proportion
of 45/45/10.


The secondary Dunkelgelb RAL 7028

and Rotbraun 8017 colors were also
airbrushed using a Tamiya acrylic
paint mixture containing XF-60 Dark
yellow, XF-57 Buff and XF-2 White
in a proportion of 60/30/10 for the
first reference and XF-64 Red Brown
and XF-3 Flat Yellow in a proportion
of 90/10 for the second one.


40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:00 Pgina 45

In order to recreate the laminated

steel plank inserted to adapt the
turrets ring of the Kgelblitz I
employed the well known sponge
technique using Vallejo and Andrea

Some paint filters are done on some areas using the

SinIndustries references P400 Grey, P242 Tan and P245
Brown trying to allow a full drying time between each

The color hues are toned down by melting a few oil paint
references with Humbrol enamel thinner which helps us
obtain different color nuances who increase the overall
weathered look of the vehicle.

The dirt and adhered mud effects are created with color pigments and varnish
fixed with Humbrol enamel thinner. Pigments are also sometimes applied with
a smooth haired paint brush.

Soot on the exhausts is also recreated

with color pigments applied dryly by
rubbing it with a paint brush.


40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:00 Pgina 46

The typical Rot RAL 8012 as applied
in the different factories as anti-rust priming ranged in color all the way from a
dark red hue to an orange hue with different nuances.
A mixture of Tamiya acrylics XF-64
Red Brown and XF-9 Hull Red is done
and then we randomly add X-6
Orange and X-27 Clear Red to create
different color hues.

In order to enhance details and single out the details of all

the different pieces we mix Vallejo acrylics 982 Red
Brown, 981 Orange Brown and 985 Hull Red in different
proportions for creating different color hues.
Using a diluted mixture of XF-9 Hull Red, XF-3 Flat
Yellow and X-6 Orange in a proportion of 80/10/10 we
brighten the different panels and we create some volume.

Using a white lead pencil we hand draw the typical factory

writings done in chalk. Some numerals are done with the
transfer sheet.

Armed with a good paint brush we work on all the

different areas with the mixtures mentioned.


We airbrush a coat of gloss varnish which

will protect all the previous work. Later on
well use matt varnish.

40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:01 Pgina 47

A highly diluted Humbrol 60 Scarlet filter (on the brands

own thinner) is applied to add some color richness to the

In order to reproduce wear on the vertical surfaces I

melted different oil paints to make some color gradations.

We proceed now to recreate the paint chips on the surface

of the turret. As usual these are divided in two kinds; the
superficial and the deep ones. We begin by doing the first
ones using a good paint brush and Vallejo acrylics,
painting small stains in the areas prone to get these.

Now we proceed with the deeper ones, trying to include

some of those inside the previous ones. This is
hypothetically a turret with a rather short operational life
so paint chips are going to be few rational and sparse.

The dirt gathered by a vehicle

engaged in urban combats is
reproduced with washes of XF-57
Buff and later on with color pigments
applied drily with a soft paint brush.

Grease and oil stains are done with Vallejo

acrylics highly diluted in Bitume oil paint (a
Titan reference).

The blue steel look of the

MK-103 guns is conveyed
with XF-1 mixed with a
little XF-50 Field Blue and
a few drops of satin
varnish in order to get
this bluish hue.


40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:01 Pgina 48


40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:01 Pgina 49


The Miniart reference is trimmed down effortlessly to the measurements of my base. This is
a vacuformed reference, so the inner space is filled up with foam to gain some stability.


Dragn Cibberhobby 9109 Flakpanzer IV Kgelblitz

MR Models MRA-3575 Panzer IV ausf J Late Update
Armorscale S35-005 German standar 2m antenna rod
Schatton Modellbau 3506 German 3cms MK-103
Aber 35013 Panzer IV ausf J
Aber 35A09 Fenders for Panzer IV
Warriors 35163 Panzer IV damaged road wheels
Tamiya 35185 Panzer IV vehicle equipment
Mig Productions MP35-119 Observing soviet tanker
Verlinden Productions VP926 Red Army officers
Miniart 36040 Street Section w/Tram lines
Friul ATL-28 Tracks for Pz III/IV

We add several heights to the scene, which contribute to create a more pleasing
composition, but always trying to juggle with these elements in order not to obscure
the visibility of our AFV.

The kit has been placed in a

small urban scene during the
battle for Berlin, going along
with the theory that the Kgelblitz did some fighting with
the Soviet tanks, placed here
with no other intention than to
put somewhere this vehicle.
In order to do this I used a
Miniart reference (36040 Street
section w/Tram lines), adapted
to the required measurements.
I enjoy a lot the small and
compact scenes, and I avoid as
much as possible having empty
spaces in my scenes. I filled the
empty spaces by building an
anti-tank barricade with balsa
wood strips and Evergreen styrene sheet, which heightens the
level of the scene as well. The
tramway rig which fills a lot of
the vertical space helps a lot in
the overall composition of the
The remaining features
which fill up the small spaces
such as the traffic sign, the
ammunition boxes, jerrycans,
etc, have a most diverse origin.
The whole scene has been
painted with Tamiya and Vallejo
acrylics applied both with my
airbrush and my paint brushes.
Then Ive used oil paint, pigments both together and separately to recreate the necessary
dirt found on any street of Berlin during the April/May 1945
The Soviet soldier figures inspecting the AFV are cast in
resin, have rather realistic poses
and a good enough finish. Both
received new Hornet heads
which are in my opinion far
more expressive. The figures
were painted with a combination of Humbrol enamels and
oil paint.


40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 12/10/13 20:49 Pgina 50

Grey Primer ref. 73.601 de A. Vallejo.
Olive Green RAL-6003:
Humbrol (esmaltes)
M-78 Cockpit Green (45%)
M-120 Light Green (45%)
M-105 Marine Green (10%)
Dark Yellow RAL-7028:
Tamiya (acrylics)
XF-60 Dark Yellow (60%)
XF-57 Buff (30%)
XF-2 Wite (10%)
Rotbraun RAL-8017:
Tamiya (acrylics)
XF-64 Red Brown (90%)
XF-3 Flat Yellow (10%)
Model Color (acrylics)
981 naranja
901 azul pastel
915 amarillo intenso
90 azul Prusia
981 naranja marrn
Andrea Color (acrylics)
12 rojo bsico
54 azul unin
General filters:
Sin Industries (enamels)
P-400 Grey
P-242 Tan
P-245 Brown
MIG (oils)
Abt-080 Wash Brown
Abt-100 Faded Grey
Abt-001 Spow White
Abt-092 German Ochre
Abt-020 Faded Dark Yellow
Abt-010 Luftwaffe Yellow
Dust & Mud
MIG (pigments)
P027 Light Dust
P037 Gulf. War Sand
MIG (pigments)
P023 Slack Smoke


Base: Tamiya (acrylics)
XF-64 Red Brown
XF-9 Hull Red
Tones & lighting:
Tamiya (varnish)
X-6 Orange
X-27 Clear Red
Tamiya (acrylics)
XF-9 Hull Red
XF-3 Flat Yellow
X-6 Orange
Details & tones
Model Color (acrylics)
982 Red Brown
981 Orange Brown
985 Hull Red
Humbrol (enamels)
M-60 Scarlet
Dust, oils & weathering
MIG (oils)
Abt-20 Faded Dark Yellow
Abt-060 Laig-Rust Braum
Abt-025 Brick Red
Abt-10 Luftwaffe Yellow
Ticiano (oils)
Rojo bermelln claro
chipping, dust and
grease turret
Model Color (acrylics)
856 marrn
981 naranja
302 xido oscuro
950 negro
941 sombra tostada
Tamiya (acrylics)
XF-57 Buff
MIG (pigments)
P037 Gulf War Sand
P024 Light Rust
leos Titan
80 Asfalto
Gun Metal
Tamiya (acrylics)
XF-1 Black
XF-50 Field Blue

40-51-Kugelblitz_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 12:02 Pgina 51

- Panzer IV & its variants. Walter J.
Spielberger. Schiffer Publishing
- Achtung Panzer N 3.
Panzerkampfwagen IV. Dai
Nippon Kaiga

52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:40 Pgina 52

By: Fabricio Pincelli

Cyber Hobby

Pictures by the author


Before I begin to describe my work, I would like to clarify

that the painting of this kit is pure fantasy because there is
no photographic evidence documenting a model of a King Tiger
with this camouflage pattern. From the very beginning, this
project appealed to me, but when I began to build it and paint it I
used it as a test bed to experiment with new techniques that I
had never used before.

52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:41 Pgina 53

King TigeR



52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:41 Pgina 54

Everything starts from a photo showing the incomplete hulls of King Tiger
stacked one on top of another. One of
these had the turret mounted with the
classic three-color camouflage scheme.
My project included a hull stripped of his
hooks and tools, painted red with a recovered turret, a bit worn but with a brand
new panzer gray gun barrel. The kit is
the excellent Cyber Hobby 6662 reference. I added the Eureka XXL cables, and
the Late Friulmodel tracks. The only
improvements I've done are the side
supports for the steel cables reproduced
with copper wire and remains of etching
and the pins of the main anchor for the
cables ends, done with stretched sprue
and crushed while hot. The vertical
planks of the kit were treated on its surface with Tamiya putty glue diluted with
green cap to simulate the irregularity of
the factory castings. I used old brushes
of different sizes to reach all areas, and
varied the amount of putty applied to
create irregularities. I evened it all with
1200gr. sandpaper and removed any all
too obvious deformations (photo 1-2).
To add a little originality, I created the
weld markings or remains (done on the
battlefield) with Milliput putty. I modeled the putty in a thin sausage applied it
where necessary, and with a brass tube
cut into a thin tip, I created the ridges on
the welding bead (photo 3). After it
dried completely, I washed the model
with pure alcohol sprayed with an airbrush to remove dust and fingerprints.

- Kit: Cyber Hobby ref. 6662
- Cables: Eureka XXL
- Tracks: Friulmodel

I applied the Tamiya primer straight
from the canister in thin coats, to
avoid covering the details


52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:42 Pgina 55

With Tamiya balck and white paint,

I'm going to create the preshadowing and the pre-lighting, in
order to have a modulated base,
useful for the later painting stages.

I apply Tamiyas Red Hull in the lower

parts of the hull.

With the Tamiyas Flat Red, I cover

the top and the lateral planks.

Using a mixture of 50%

red and 50% yellow,
diluted in turn on 50%
specific thinner, I create
the modulation simulating
a zenithal light source
moving the airbrush
above the hull and trying
to perform a smooth
gradient along the planks


52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:42 Pgina 56

Now I work on the turret. I start by applying thin layers of

Tamiyas XF 60 Dark Yellow trying not to cover the
modulation created earlier.

To return the tone back to yellow, I apply a coat of Clear

Yellow, which will be the basis for the hairspray
technique, applying three coats of it.

Camouflage done with Tamiya

paint is diluted with water to
decrease the gripping power of the
color. Warm water is then applied
over the entire turrets surface
and brushes with short and stiff
bristles are used to recreate paint
chips and scratches after an
intense use on the battlefield.

I applied panzer gray on the gun barrel and

olive green on the armed protection of the
barrel creating some modulation clearing
and diluting up to 50% the basic colors. I
have attached two decals that represent
the numbering of the hulls given to these
while still in the factory. I applied a coat
of clear gloss over the kit to protect the
work done up to this point.


52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:43 Pgina 57

With Burnt Umber oil paint thinned

down with white spirit, I did an
overall wash putting a greater
emphasis in the weld strips, corners
and interstices to give a threedimensional effect to the kit.

I'm going to mix oil paints used

previously with red enamel to create,
with a sponge, the chipping of paint
on the turret.

Same procedure but this time red oil paint and buff, are
used to create red chipping emphasizing the edges, where
wear becomes more evident.

I create a mixture of colors in black enamel, steel and blue

to recreate the bare metal under the chipping of red paint
using the sponge technique of sponge.


52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:43 Pgina 58


The same mixture (black, steel and blue)is used to coat

the plate of the front doors in order to break the
monotony of red on the hull. With masking tape, I
protect the outlines and apply the diluted mixture (50%)
by hand.

Obviously this plate, being without protection, will be

subject to rust I'm going to recreate with a mixture of oil
paint and Track Light brown rust pigment applied with a

Once dry, I keep applying different shades of light rust

with a thin paintbrush, diluting colors and doing shadings
in a real and convincing way. Around the weld strips
additionally I'm going to airbrush, the smelting created by
the welding fumes in matt black, I also paint brilliant steel
cords and apply a diluted blue color on these to simulate
halos produced by high temperatures.

With a thin paintbrush, I simulate the scratches on the

vertical planks, brightened with red buff, on the metal
color for the deeper scratches

To mark the metal edges, I picked and applied a small

amount of Dark Steel pigment with my finger, and then
removed the excess rubbing it with a paper towel and
then reviewed all the edges of the hull, getting a realistic
effect, both glossy and very convincing.

52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:43 Pgina 59

The roller train preceding the drive wheels and referral

are painted in dark yellow and the rest goes in red.

simulate dust,
I created an ad hoc
mix with Tamiya Buff,
Light Grey and Red Brown,
airbrushed on the vertical planks
with more emphasis in the areas
under the turret and in the lower
parts of the hull.

This area will later on suffer a heavy

treatment with mud and grease
stains, while other places will only
get paint chips made with the sponge.
On the wheels in red, I did a general
dark oil wash. After drying, I spread
the Ak Dust Effects and Damp Earth
products randomly. Then I take a
small amount of pigment European
Earth and Dark Earth and put these on
top of the color while it is still wet
trying to change the tones for each
individual wheel. Finally I apply the
Mig Oil and Grease product on the
central peg simulating the grease
often present in this location

With Buff color diluted in water and a thin paintbrush, I went over the areas
previously dusted, doing now the streaks of dirt caused by rainfall.

As for the streaks of dirt on the turret

I used the Mig, Oil and Grease
product diluted with white spirit.
With the airbrush set I blew on the
kit the European Earth pigment. The
effect is convincing because it creates
natural shades and you can play with
the intensity by using less diluted
product in order to obtain a darker


52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:44 Pgina 60

The same system was also used for the oil stains on the
hull, alternating this mixture with the Ak Engine Oil
product diluted as well. The various spots of grease
present on the hull are also done by blowing the pigments
on the brush with the airbrush, using a small amount of
color used previously for the camouflage spots.

After you have cleansed and checked

the correct length of the tracks
proceed by applying the Tamiya
primer, and then a coat of AKs
Engine Oil.
Now a wash with AKs Dark Mud and
Dust Effects is done.


Notice the detail in the tow cable for

placing the tracks, presently fastened
around the turret.

This technique is also used for the mud splashes in the rear
using different diluted mixtures both light and dark, done
by mixing enamel colors and shades from the AK catalog.

52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:44 Pgina 61

The final touch to the

tow cable is the
application of Dark
Earth, Light Dust and
European Earth
pigments with a brush
along with the finishing
touches on the tracks
and the overall dirt

Overview of the vehicle with everything in

place except for the tracks.

Once the Tamiya priming has been

applied, I prepare a mixture of gloss
black paint diluted to 50%. This
somewhat glossier mixture helps
with the adherence of color pigments
and gives a final satin finish when the
process is through.

Afterwards I applied the color

pigments with a soft paint brush
using three different hues of AKs
Dark Earth, European Earth and Light
Dust in the areas which stand out

Once it dries thoroughly the final result is excellent and as dirty as you want to make it. Sandpaper was used to polish
the outermost area in contact with the ground- in order to do a convincing and realistic shiny polished effect. On the
innermost areas I did the same procedure recreating the polished steel parts which are in contact with the iron wheels
which remove the mud present in the tracks along that area.


52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:45 Pgina 62

52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:45 Pgina 63

The work was long and exciting and it has

allowed me to play around without too much
exaggeration discovering new ways of working
to achieve my goal.
I would like to apologize to the historians,
but sometimes I like to break the molds and
follow only my imagination in order to achieve
a result that is pleasing to my eyes and my


52-64-KingTiger_ING_PzI.F 08/10/13 11:46 Pgina 64

Base Coat:
Priming Tamiya (Surface Fine Primer)
Color Modulation:
XF-2 white y XF-1 black, Tamiya
Lower part of the hull:
XF-9 Red Hull, Tamiya
Upper part of the hull and sides:
X-22 Flat Red, Tamiya
Hull modulation:
50% red XF-7 + 50% yellow XF-3,
Turret, final highlights:
XF-60 Dark Yellow and X-22 Clear,
Specific retouches:
X-24 Clear Yellow, Tamiya
German Camouflage:
XF-60 Dark Yellow, XF-64 Red Brown
and XF-58 Olive Green, Tamiya
Gun Barrel:
XF-63 Panzer Gray, Tamiya
Gun mantlet:
XF-58 Olive Green, Tamiya

X-22 Clear Goss, Tamiya
General rust effects
Welding, rust and chips:
Oil paints Burnt Umber and ochre red,
red mat enamel 60 by Humbrol.
Welding in the armoring around the
hatch: mat black, steel and mat blue, by
Rust of armoring around the hatch: oil
paints 085 Light Rust, by MIG, Brown
Rust, mat yellow by Humbrol and
pigments AK-085 Track Rust.
Recent welding: mat black, steel and
blue, Humbrol.
Scratches on vertical armored planks:
Red Buff, steel and pigment AK-086
Dark Steel.
Wheel area:
XF-60 Dark yellow and XF-64 red brown,
Washes: enamels AK-015 Dust Effects y
AK-078 Damp Earth.

Pigments, MIG: AK-042 European Earth,

AK-081Dark Herat y Oil and Grease.
Overall dirt layer:
XF-57 Buff, XF-66 Light Grey y XF-64
Red Brown, Tamiya.
Grime streaks and circlets produced
by rain and oil:
XF-57 Buff, de Tamiya y oil and Grease,
Pigments: AK-042 European Earth
Enamels: AK-84 Engine Oil.
Mud splashes: enamels AK-23 Dark
Tow cables
Base color: AK-84 Engine Oil.
Wash: AK-023 Dark Mud y AK-015 Dust
Dirt: AK-061 Dark Earth, AK-040 Light
Dust y AK-042 European Earth.
Priming: Fine Surface Primer, Tamiya and
gloss black.
Pigments: AK-081 Dark Earth, AK-042
European Earth y AK-040 Light Dust.

interior-contra_STAFF_ING_ESP STAFF 12/10/13 20:55 Pgina 64

Director Editorial
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Redactor Jefe
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos

Armour Modelling Magazine

Most readers feel attracted towards the German AFVs in WWII, so this issue is possibly
going to be quite popular among our readers. On the other hand we are also conscious that
other readers will think here we go again with the same old German tanks, but no.
As you can see we are always capable to turn around things and feature different material.
Volker Bembennek rekindles our enthusiasm with his wonderful Panzer IV Heidi with some
impressive results and a highly didactic step by step review explaining every procedure
On the other end of the spectrum we have Fabricio Pincelli who indulges in some
speculation working on a Tiger II made up of random parts, leaving much room to the
imagination all within some logical boundaries. This author does this by following a number
of techniques and obtaining an incredible result.
We go back to the strict realistic grounds with Diego Quijano, a weird thing indeed
knowing that this author likes to indulge mostly in experimentation- featuring a normal
Panther AFV with outstanding results obtained via his impeccable techniques.
In this compendium of German AFVs we couldnt leave out a Paper Panzer which
seemingly was involved after all in the final throes of the war. The curious thing about it is the
fact that Javier Redondo a Soviet AFV fanatic- is at the helm of this project. His work on his
Kgelblitz is certainly admirable especially in the context of his diorama which places this AFV
in its speculative theater of operations.
This issue ends with a technical review on the ways to apply and fix color pigments
obtaining dirt, mud or sand related effects in general. A Panzer III employed in the battle for
Kursk was used as a base for expounding these techniques.
We think that the range of the reviews have turned out in quite an interesting issue.

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Descriptive Photos of the items will be uploaded in order to
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Han colaborado en este

Volker Bembemnek,
Diego Quijano,
Javier Redondo,
Fabricio Pincelli
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Fernando Caellas Planchuelo
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Diseo y maquetacin
Imprimia Artes grficas
J. David Hernndez Chacn
J. David Hernndez Chacn
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Tel.: 913 675 708
914 086 135
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Tel. 913 675 708
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Contra_Vallejo_ING_ESP STAFF 14/10/13 12:44 Pgina 64