CAMERA CONTROL

APERTURE

Aperture is the opening of a lens's diaphragm where light passes through. It is adjusted in
f/stops and is generally written as numbers such as 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11 and 16. The
lower f/stops give more exposure because they represent the larger apertures, while the
higher f/stops give less exposure because they represent smaller apertures.

For example, in the first picture I have done, you can see it has a low aperture exposure as
the image is darker, whereas the second image has a high aperture exposure because it is
very bright, and can see it has been exposed to light for longer.

SHUTTER SPEED

Shutter speed is the length of time in which the film or digital sensor inside the camera is
exposed to light, and also for when a camera's shutter is open when taking a photograph.
The amount of light that reaches the film or image sensor is related to the exposure time.
If the shutter speed is fast, it can help to freeze action completely. If the shutter speed is
slow, it can create an effect where the moving object in the image looks blurry. This effect is
used quite a bit in advertisements of cars and motorbikes, where by a sense of speed and
motion is communicated to the viewer by intentionally blurring the moving wheels.

Shutter speeds are usually measured in fractions of a second, when they are under a
second. For example 1/4 means a quarter of a second, while 1/250 means one twohundred-and-fiftieth of a second or four milliseconds. Most modern DSLRs can handle
shutter speeds of up to 1/4000th of a second, while some can handle much higher speeds of
1/8000th of a second and faster.

In my example, you can see with the first picture it has a slow shutter speed as it looks more
blurry, whereas the second image has a fast shutter speed because the image is clearer.

FOCUS
The focus of the camera can determine whether the picture will look blurry and out of
focus, or look sharper and cleaner. It is also used to direct peoples attention to a certain
point in the image by focusing more on the certain point, compared to the rest of the image.
Depth of field is when an area that stretches in front of and behind the focus point still
appears sharp.
In this example, you can see I have used the focus on the camera to focus on the subject in
shot. The background is out of focus, which helps to draw the attention of the viewer to the
subject. The subject looks very sharp, whereas the background looks almost blurry as such.

LENSES AND FILTERS

Camera lens filters are very important for a photographer for capturing scenery in extremely
difficult lighting conditions. They can improve colours and reduce reflections, and can also
protect lenses. Filters are used a lot in photography. But some dont use them as often as
others. For example, street and portrait photographers rarely use them, while landscape
photographers use a various amount of different filters.

Types of Lens Filters:

Circular screw-on filters most common type that mounts directly on the lens filter.
Examples of circular screw-on filters include UV/Clear/Haze filters, circular polarizers,
neutral density and colour filters. Circular filters also come in different thicknesses.
Square filters a popular choice for landscape and other photography. A filter holder
directly attaches to the lens filter thread and can hold one or more filters. The most popular
sizes are 33 and 44. They can be stacked together in certain situations, which can
negatively impact image quality and add reflections.
Drop-in filters these filters are used inside long telephoto lenses because of the large size
of the front lens element. Only clear and polarizing filters are used for drop-in filters.

FILM SPEED AND LIGHT

Film speed is the measure of a photographic film's sensitivity to light, determined by
sensitometry and measured on various numerical scales. A closely related ISO system is
used to measure the sensitivity of digital imaging systems.
Here is an example of some suggested ISO speeds to use for different light:

ISO 50 (or lower): Bright sunlight (the beach in the afternoon, for example), studio lights
ISO 100: Bright sunlight, bright overcast, studio lights
ISO 200: Sunlight, overcast, some shade, studio lights
ISO 400: Outdoor (sunlight/overcast), indoor (during the day or very well lit)
ISO 800: Outdoor (very overcast), dusk, interiors, motion/high speed
ISO 1600: Night, interiors (day or night), motion/high speed
ISO 3200: Night, interiors, motion/high speed

TEXTURE
Texture photography is a way of drawing the viewers attention to the image. Photographs
that use this technique create impact by showing different textures.
Kinds of Texture Photography
There are three major categories. Detail presents the aspects seen on the surface of the
material, and a macro lens is usually used to focus on the details. The texture is one of the
components of the image. It is the relationship between the textures which is important.
Finally, information is the third type as it is used to help understand what the image is.

Composing Texture Photographs

Contrast, curves and patterns are aspects of texture photographs which can help compose
an image. Contrast makes the texture detail show up even more. Curves help express a
sense of movement with leading curves directing the attention towards the focal point.
Non-leading curves have no specific direction. Patterns can help catch the viewers
attention. Another method is by breaking the pattern for an interesting effect.
Cropping
Cropping is where you pick change the size of the photo and remove unwanted areas or
distractions. This could be used to change where the focus point of a photo is. For example,
if its not centred they can make it or if something like a person in the background at the
edge is distracting the focus they can cut it out.

Shape
Shape in photography is important as everything as a shape and where its framed is
important. This is because if its not framed well, the photo will be boring. So in order to
avoid this, you will need to make it interesting to look at but not strange so it puts people
off.
Colour
The colours need to be natural and not too bright and vivid otherwise they will be too much
for people and will make them not want to look at them. Whereas, if they are more natural
looking or are a common colour to use for the image like Black and White, Transparency or
Normal then people will like them, and not be put off by the image.

STAMPS
Stamps are used in Photoshop to remove imperfections in a photo. For example, if there is a
portrait shoot and a person has a spot or something on their face that shouldnt be there
then it can be removed. You can also use stamps to add onto the photo. For example, if
there was something missing in the image, you can add it in.

LASSOS

The lassos is used to carefully select part of a photo to move it on to a new layer so it can be
changed without effecting the rest of the photo. They could brighten up the rest of the
photo but because you have selected it, it wont effect it. To use the lasso tool, you have to
select it in the tool bar, then you select the part of the image you want to use. The lasso tool
is not very precise, whereas the magnet lasso is and you can select what you want.

LAYERING
Layers are used in digital image editing to separate different elements of an image. A layer
can be compared to a photo on which imaging effects or images are applied and placed over
or under an image.
There are different kinds of layers. They represent a part of a picture, either as pixels or as
modification instructions. They are stacked on top of each other, and depending on the
order, determine the appearance of the final picture.

In graphics software, a layer is the term used to describe the different levels at which you
can place an object or image file. In the program you can stack, merge or define layers when
creating a digital image.

DIGITAL PRINTING and PAPER CHOICE

Digital printing is important as if you use a bad printer it wont come out as well compared
to it being printed on a good printer as the printer will be more exact and the colours will
come out better and more realistic. It is also the same with choosing paper. For example, if
you use normal paper it wont come out as well as the ink will soak in so you need to us high
quality paper so the ink cant soak into it.

DEVELOPING FILM
The first thing I did was put the film onto the spiral, which had to be done in darkness so it
wouldnt ruin the film. I then placed the spiral into the tank, and then closed it so no light
could reach inside. After this, I then had to develop the chemicals which were to go into the
tank. To do this, I had to make sure the chemicals were the correct temperature so it
wouldnt react too slowly or too quickly. I did this using a thermometer. I also had to make
sure I was putting the correct amount of developer in, so I used a measuring jug. Once I had
this prepared, I could then begin.
First, I had to start a timer for 30 seconds. It was important that we stuck to the correct time
as if we didnt, then the developer wouldnt be right and we could ruin the test strips. I then
poured the developer into the tank, put the lid back on then moved it upside down then
back for 30 seconds. Then every minute, we had to move it for 10 seconds at a time until it

was complete. After this, I emptied the tank of the developer, and put the stop bath in and
repeated the process. I then placed the spiral in to the wash bath, recycled the stop bath
and fixer, and poured the developer away. I had to then clean the tank to ensure there was
no more tracer left inside it.
Once the film had finished washing, I had to place the spiral back in the processing tank and
fill the tank with clean water. I then added a few drops of wetting agent and moved the
spiral up and down for a few seconds in order to break the surface tension of the water.
Then, I removed it from the spiral and took off any excess water, and hung the film up to dry
in the drying cabinet. Once it was dry, I had to cut it into strips and place them into negative
bags for printing. We did a test strip to show what the print would turn out like on the
different timings, so we knew what would be right for our picture. To do this, we would
expose the image to light for a certain amount of seconds, and gradually get higher. The
least amount of seconds the image is exposed to, the darker the image will be. This is
because of aperture.

Contact Sheet
The contact sheet is a visual representation of the film shot and is used to help you decide
which negatives you want to enlarge and print. It is the process of placing the negative(s) in
contact with sensitized material, such as photographic paper, and then passing light through
the negative(s) onto the material.

Push Processing and Negative StoragePush processing is a film developing technique that increases the effective sensitivity of the
film being processed. Push processing involves developing the film for more time, possibly
in combination with a higher temperature, than usual. This technique results in effective
overdevelopment of the film.
Negative storage is used to keep your negatives safe, and decrease the chance of them
getting ruined.

Paper Choice
Variable Contrast- Printing paper in which varying grades of print contrast can be obtained
by the use of variable contrast filters.
Graded Contrast- Printing paper, which produces a single contrast of print contrast,
requiring a change in paper grades when less or more contrast is desired in the print.

Dodging and Burning-

Dodging is used to decrease the density (lighten) a specific area of a print by giving it less
exposure. Dodging is done during the main exposure and is usually used to brighten specific
areas of an image, including shadow areas, to reveal more description and detail.
Burning is used to increase the density (darken) of a specific area of a print by giving it
additional exposure. Burning is done after the main exposure and is usually used to darken
specific areas of an image, including highlight areas.

Masking- Masking is a way of making parts of a layer invisible. But you can also make it
visible at any time if you wanted. It is not a permanent process.

Special Effects- you can use special effect on software such as Photoshop to do all sorts to
your images, depending on the effect you want to give off. For example, Solarisation. This is
when the image recorded on a negative or on a photographic print is entirely or partially
reversed in tone. Dark areas appear light or light areas appear dark.

Immersion Time and Bath Temperature- immersion time is the time an image is emerged in
the bath for. You will need to make sure that you dont leave the image emerged for too
long, or it will be ruined. Bath temperature is the temperature of the bath. The temperature
has to be correct or when you put the image in, it may not turn out right if the temperature
is wrong. The temperature is usually 40c

Chemical Exhaustion- this is when the developer used for the film goes out of date as such.
If you were to use it, the image may not develop and you could lose your images. If you are
unsure whether the chemical can be used, you can test it with a chemical testing agent.

EQUIPMENT

FILM-BASED CAMERA- a film-based camera is a camera that is used with a film. The images
arent digital so they have to be developed either in a dark room or can be taken to a shop
that does that. There are many makes of film-based camera. You can also attach different
lenses onto the camera. Depending on the distance and look you want, they vary a lot. For
example, wide-angle, standard, telephoto and macro.

DIGITAL CAMERA- A digital camera is one that is digital and where the images can be easily
transferred onto different types of software. This can be through a storage device that is
put in the camera where the images save to. For example, a memory card.

ARTIFICIAL LIGHTS- Artificial lights are used to set a certain atmosphere. There are many
different types of artificial lights, for example flash, studio lights and diffusers. The different
lights will be used depending on the situation. For example, if you were in a studio then you
would use studio lights. If you were outside and it was dark, you may want to use flash.

TRIPOD
A tripod is used to place a camera on, which keeps it still. It is made of three legs. Tripods
may be used when taking images of slow shutter speeds. This will keep the image from
going blurry.

LENSES
There are many different types of lenses, for example:
Wide-angle- A wide angle lens is a far zoomed out lens. It can capture more of the scene
than the human eye can focus on. A typical wide-angle lens has a focal length of 24-35mm.
Standard- These lenses are very useful, and have focal lengths between 35 and 70mm. The
standard lens is one of the easiest to use, as it provides a similar viewing angle to the human
eye.
Telephoto- Telephoto lenses have a focal length of over 70mm, and are designed to get you
as close to a far-away subject as possible.
Macro- Macro lenses are designed for close-up photography and many of them produce a
1:1 image, which means that your subject is reproduced on the camera sensor at life-size
which allows for huge amounts of detail.

FILM TYPES AND STORAGE DEVICES

PRINTING
Enlarger- An enlarger is a specialized transparency projector used to
produce photographic prints from film or glass negatives.

Easels- A device used to hold photographic paper flat during exposure and is usually equipped
with an adjustable metal mask for framing.

Contact Printers- a contact printer enables you to make a sheet of thumbnail prints from a roll of
film that has been cut into strips, usually containing six images per strip for 35mm film. It is used
to help you decide which negative to blow up into larger prints.

Tongs- tongs are used to take the image out of the developer without needing to get the
developer on your hands.

DIGITAL IMAGING
You could use different types of software, such as Photoshop, to edit your image. Scanners
can also be used to put your image onto a computer, and then store it securely for you to
use. Image capture is used to capture your image on the camera, and then retrieve it on a
database. You can also print your digital images onto paper.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

VENTILATION- All darkrooms or processing rooms need some kind of forced ventilation. This
could be a fan mounted through an outside wall, air-con or it could be a special ventilation
system for a machine or a room. However, processing rooms vary widely in size and in the
types of chemicals used in them. Therefore recommendations for ventilation can only be
rough guidelines. In general, 10-15 air changes per hour will produce a safe working
environment.

ELECTRICITY- When it comes to electricity safety in the darkroom, it should be taken very
seriously as you are working with chemicals and water. All the equipment in the darkroom
should have a PAT test. This is when the equipment is tested then a sticker is put on it.

CHEMICALS- Photographic chemicals are not hazardous when used correctly. When near or
using chemicals, you shouldnt eat, drink, or smoke. You must also keep all photo processing
chemicals out of reach of children and animals. You should also use suitable gloves and face
or eye protection when handling or mixing chemicals. Tongs may be used for agitating prints
during processing and for transfer between dishes or trays.

COSHH- In the darkroom there are a lot of chemicals. This is why COSHH (Control of
Substances Hazardous to Health) is very important. Signs are put up around the room and
above where chemicals are kept/being used to show the safety precautions and dangers.